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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!
- Thread starter Hazaro
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How are you changing the RPMs? If it's connected to the motherboard via a fan header, the header speed should be set to Full Speed. The pumps are meant to run like that.
okay Yeah that's a nice case and you can go with a aio cooler in that. I have the H100i v2 and love it. I did change the stock fans tho to Phanteks, much quieter and moves air. get the Corsair LPX ram. it's low profile and should clear. I think you are good with a full size psu in that case. with a full modular it should not be a problem cable managing that.
that is a fine version. What you don't want is the reference design aka founders edition of the cards.
From NZXT's instructions, I have it connected to my cpu_fan header. Using their CAM software though, you can set it to run at variable speeds or max it out.
Bloodember
Member
I ask because your issues sound like your not getting enough power through your USB ports. Your power supply is fine though.
okay, so in the bios, make sure you have that fan header set to full speed. then in the cam software you can run it at whatever you feel works. I have a Corsair aio. I run it at max performance mode in the Corsair software 24/7. but my computer is only on and in use a couple hours a day.
Buyers remorse over my 1060 has already set in, even though I really don't need anything more than it due to gaming at 1080p exclusively 
It's a great card by all accounts, I'm just constantly thinking "should I have gone with a 1070 instead?"
I think the same thing happened when I did my PC build back in 2014 and I bought a 280x, but clearly that subsided!
It's a great card by all accounts, I'm just constantly thinking "should I have gone with a 1070 instead?"I think the same thing happened when I did my PC build back in 2014 and I bought a 280x, but clearly that subsided!
Bloodember
Member
RMA it, you shouldn't have noise at low speed. I have mine set to silent mode and no noise from the pump.
Buyers remorse over my 1060 has already set in, even though I really don't need anything more than it due to gaming at 1080p exclusively
I think the same thing happened when I did my PC build back in 2014 and I bought a 280x, but clearly that subsided!
are you gaming on a 60hz monitor? if you are, the 1060 is perfect for that. if you are on a 144hz monitor, the 1070 makes more sense if you want to hit those frames.
I've got reservations about this Corsair power supply I bought. Its a CX750M. I should have went with the EVGA G2. I keep seeing posts and reviews saying it's a pos. Running a 6700k/1070 and I don't want power issues on my first pc build. Tempted to hit the button on buying a EVGA today.
I use my TV mainly, which is a 60hz display so I do think the 1060 makes the most sense
Yeah the g2 is a significantly better psu. the CX line from corsair is aimed at lower end budget systems. rmx line from corsair or g2 from evga is more in line with what you should get with those components.
Yeah, CX line is not known for their quality, get the EVGA if you can. Also you don't need a 750w PSU for a single card setup, you could easily do with a quality 500w unit if you don't intend to go SLI.
I use my TV mainly, which is a 60hz display so I do think the 1060 makes the most sense
Yeah you made a good decision then.
RamaTheVoice
Member
I've been using a CX750M for two years now withour any issues. I know anecdotal evidence isn't all that convincing, and the PSU does have poor reviews it seems, but I'm happy with mine at any rate
I know how to set it up, I was just wondering if I'm lowering its lifespan by not having it run at variable speeds.
I've been using a CX750M for two years now withour any issues. I know anecdotal evidence isn't all that convincing, and the PSU does have poor reviews it seems, but I'm happy with mine at any rate
Oh yes I have no doubt. plenty of people have no issues with them. but there is reasons why their are tiers of power supplies.
RamaTheVoice
Member
I always thought that AIO pumps were supposed to run at full speed at all times.
gotcha. honestly I would like to know as well. I run mine at max performance which basically runs the pump at full speed. I might try the balanced mode and see the difference in temps.
I had similar concerns when I bought a CX650M for my build recently. Switched to the EVGA G2 while I had the chance of returning the CX-model. While it's difficult to notice differences at a glance while using the PC (apart from stuff like fan noise that has been very low and nice on my G2 so far), it just feels good to have something very trustworthy and high quality powering your components.
Bloodember
Member
Why do you need 2 cpu coolers?
Any particular reason he's going for the six core 5820? (I understand it's faster) But if he's just gaming...
Going to the i7-6700 is a more modern option and costs $40 less, not to mention a 1151 socket mobo will be less than a 2011 also. You don't need two CPU coolers btw.
For example, here's an i7-6700k, gigabyte mobo, better PSU for less:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($349.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D14 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($71.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($124.89 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($79.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($143.00 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.49 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 8GB G1 Gaming Video Card ($629.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus BW-16D1HT Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($40.98 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($20.00)
Case Fan: Antec Two Cool 140 Blue 33.6 CFM 140mm Fan ($9.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case Fan: Antec Two Cool 140 Blue 33.6 CFM 140mm Fan ($9.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Keyboard: Thermaltake CHALLENGER PRIME Wired Gaming Keyboard ($24.99 @ Newegg)
Mouse: Gigabyte GM-M6800 Wired Optical Mouse ($13.98 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1739.14
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-05 13:11 EDT-0400
petran79
Banned
Buyers remorse over my 1060 has already set in, even though I really don't need anything more than it due to gaming at 1080p exclusively
I think the same thing happened when I did my PC build back in 2014 and I bought a 280x, but clearly that subsided!
Depends also on your CPU. If it can take advantage of a GTX 1070 or even GTX 1080 then go for it.
For games I'd settle with a 1070 too but I also use the PC to watch HD movies and series, mostly animated. If you use MadVR on high settings, even a GTX 1080 can reach its limits at 1080p
Ran into some issues.
My build. Currently it'll turn on, no signal, and after a little bit it'll restart. Repeat until I shut it off myself.
My buddy is going to try to get it running after he gets off work, as I'll be busy til like 10 pm. So far he tried clearing the CMOS which didn't work. Said he'll try updating the BIOS.
Any other reasons this issue could arise?
My build. Currently it'll turn on, no signal, and after a little bit it'll restart. Repeat until I shut it off myself.
My buddy is going to try to get it running after he gets off work, as I'll be busy til like 10 pm. So far he tried clearing the CMOS which didn't work. Said he'll try updating the BIOS.
Any other reasons this issue could arise?
Guys, what is considered currently the best perf/price ratio for motherboards for Socket 2011 V3?
Or at least which company i should aim for? I have Asrock now and its not bad, but its not awesome. How is Gigabyte or MSI for this socket? Or is Asus still safe, even though slightly pricey, bet?
Or at least which company i should aim for? I have Asrock now and its not bad, but its not awesome. How is Gigabyte or MSI for this socket? Or is Asus still safe, even though slightly pricey, bet?
Yeah that's a error on my part. I like the noctura.
So there is no benefit to the additional 2 cores?
I have a tx650 corsair from ~2009; I think that's the lowest grade corsair. Has been through many different part swaps and now 2 full builds. Not a single issue. 6700k/1070I've been using a CX750M for two years now withour any issues. I know anecdotal evidence isn't all that convincing, and the PSU does have poor reviews it seems, but I'm happy with mine at any rate
Someone else can probably speak to it better than I can, but the 6700k has 4 physical cores, and 8 hyper-threaded (virtual) cores. This means depending on the software the CPU acts like it has 8 cores. The 5820 IS a solid CPU, but it's more expensive, higher power draw and 2 years old. The lga 1151 socket will be around for a few more cycles if he wants to upgrade to Kabylake or possibly Cannonlake next year. If all he's doing is video gaming the i7-6700 or even i5-6600 CPUs are plenty powerful enough. The trade off is cost, it nets you a $100 to spend on something else if you go with my setup (and it has some better components to boot).
Now heavy video editing would benefit more from a higher core setup, which is why I asked about it in the first place. Even so, I would go the more modern route.
p.s.
Asking someone to build you a computer is like asking them what brand of car sports car they like, it's mostly personal preference. They all go fast and look fancy. There are plenty of guys on here that can make something equivalent or better than what I picked out, so ask around, and come up with what you're comfortable with.
Wowfunhappy
Member
Hey guys, quick question. I happen to have in my possession:
4x 4GB sticks of 2666 DDR4 Memory
1x 8GB stick of 2133 DDR4 Memory
Plus a motherboard with four memory slots.
For the past six months or so, I've been using the slower 8GB stick alongside three of the faster 4GB sticks, for a total of 20GB of memory running at 2133. I decided to do this under the assumption that generally, amount > speed when it comes to ram.
So, did I make the right choice? Should I switch out the large but slower stick for the small but faster one? I have an HTC Vive and I've been reading recently that RAM speed can make a difference.
(I don't remember the CAS latency, and am not in a position to check atm. Assume that it's standard for DDR4.)
4x 4GB sticks of 2666 DDR4 Memory
1x 8GB stick of 2133 DDR4 Memory
Plus a motherboard with four memory slots.
For the past six months or so, I've been using the slower 8GB stick alongside three of the faster 4GB sticks, for a total of 20GB of memory running at 2133. I decided to do this under the assumption that generally, amount > speed when it comes to ram.
So, did I make the right choice? Should I switch out the large but slower stick for the small but faster one? I have an HTC Vive and I've been reading recently that RAM speed can make a difference.
(I don't remember the CAS latency, and am not in a position to check atm. Assume that it's standard for DDR4.)
StrikeNinja24
Banned
So I'm looking to make my first PC in November, hoping to find good deals around that time to make the build more affordable. I havent decided on a monitor yet, but what I have so far in parts are listed here.
https://pcpartpicker.com/user/StrikeNinja24/saved/JCNbt6
Does anyone have any suggestions for this build, in both functionality and pricing? Will primarily be FPS/TPS/Figthing games played.
https://pcpartpicker.com/user/StrikeNinja24/saved/JCNbt6
Does anyone have any suggestions for this build, in both functionality and pricing? Will primarily be FPS/TPS/Figthing games played.
You lose multi-channel capability because you're using mismatched ram sticks sizes. Last I read, it was like a 6% difference in performance on top of the frequency difference so it's probably a bit higher in your case.
I'd easily go for the 4x4GB setup over instead. Unless you're hitting 18GBs or whatever constantly.
Based on how fast pricing changes and how deals come and go, your list will change. I guarantee it.
I think the best way to get cheap stuff is to start tagging things your interested in like a month ahead by setting up price alerts on PCPartPicker and buying as things hit those thresholds. You'll probably get really close to black friday prices that way. That said, we have one release that I don't think will change much (Intel Kaby Lake) and one that may surprise us (AMD Zen) for the rest of the year. So yeah, you may just want to wait and come back in October to remake that list.
That looks solid, expect components to change by then though. Unless you're buying next week don't settle on those parts, new stuff comes out all the time.
Glass Shark
Banned
I'm hoping someone can help me with a case recommendation. Here's what I'm looking for:
As simple, clean, and unobtrusive as possible. Nothing flashy at all. It should not draw attention to itself.
Good airflow and cable management.
Size is not a huge factor. Nothing massive, but doesn't have to fit in a small space either.
Needs to be big enough to support a dual- or triple-radiator liquid cooler and a VERY long 12.8" (326mm) graphics card.
Ideally does not have any 5.25" drive bays, but this isn't a deal breaker.
Around $100, or less if possible.
For reference, I really like the Corsair 400C and 400Q, but I don't think they are quite big enough to support both my video card and a liquid cooler with push/pull.
I'm taking a close look at just about every PC case I can find, but it's a slog. Any recommendations would be really appreciated. I'm looking to buy very soon.
As simple, clean, and unobtrusive as possible. Nothing flashy at all. It should not draw attention to itself.
Good airflow and cable management.
Size is not a huge factor. Nothing massive, but doesn't have to fit in a small space either.
Needs to be big enough to support a dual- or triple-radiator liquid cooler and a VERY long 12.8" (326mm) graphics card.
Ideally does not have any 5.25" drive bays, but this isn't a deal breaker.
Around $100, or less if possible.
For reference, I really like the Corsair 400C and 400Q, but I don't think they are quite big enough to support both my video card and a liquid cooler with push/pull.
I'm taking a close look at just about every PC case I can find, but it's a slog. Any recommendations would be really appreciated. I'm looking to buy very soon.
Still having a problem with my Strix 1080. I sent it back to ASUS for an RMA, and it's still exhibiting the same behavior once I re-installed the card. When I talked to them yesterday, they said they found no issues, and think that my PSU might be the culprit.
The issue is a single fan running at 100% when the machine is in an idle state. The fan will sometimes kick on immediately after booting, and sometimes only several hours of the machine being on.
I only have a 500W PSU, but I threw from my system into PCPartPicker, and it says I'm at 421W and shows no compatibility issues.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-3470 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($244.25 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Biostar TZ77B ATX LGA1155 Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($37.98 @ Newegg)
Storage: Sandisk Ultra II 960GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($237.46 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Green 1TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.36 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Green 1TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.36 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Green 4TB 3.5" 5900RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Video Card
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($119.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Antec EarthWatts Green 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-14 DVD/CD Writer ($13.99 @ Newegg)
Case Fan: Corsair Air Series AF120 Quiet Edition (2-Pack) 39.9 CFM 120mm Fans ($25.99 @ Newegg)
Case Fan: Corsair Air Series AF120 Quiet Edition (2-Pack) 39.9 CFM 120mm Fans ($25.99 @ Newegg)
Monitor: Asus VH242H 23.6" Monitor
Monitor: Asus VG248QE 24.0" 144Hz Monitor ($264.98 @ Newegg)
UPS: APC BX1500G UPS
Total: $1114.33
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-05 15:51 EDT-0400
Is the guy at ASUS correct in thinking that a new power supply (he recommended 750+W) would fix the issue I'm having?
The issue is a single fan running at 100% when the machine is in an idle state. The fan will sometimes kick on immediately after booting, and sometimes only several hours of the machine being on.
I only have a 500W PSU, but I threw from my system into PCPartPicker, and it says I'm at 421W and shows no compatibility issues.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-3470 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($244.25 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Biostar TZ77B ATX LGA1155 Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($37.98 @ Newegg)
Storage: Sandisk Ultra II 960GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($237.46 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Green 1TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.36 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Green 1TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.36 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Green 4TB 3.5" 5900RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Video Card
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($119.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Antec EarthWatts Green 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-14 DVD/CD Writer ($13.99 @ Newegg)
Case Fan: Corsair Air Series AF120 Quiet Edition (2-Pack) 39.9 CFM 120mm Fans ($25.99 @ Newegg)
Case Fan: Corsair Air Series AF120 Quiet Edition (2-Pack) 39.9 CFM 120mm Fans ($25.99 @ Newegg)
Monitor: Asus VH242H 23.6" Monitor
Monitor: Asus VG248QE 24.0" 144Hz Monitor ($264.98 @ Newegg)
UPS: APC BX1500G UPS
Total: $1114.33
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-05 15:51 EDT-0400
Is the guy at ASUS correct in thinking that a new power supply (he recommended 750+W) would fix the issue I'm having?
the define S fits all your requirements I suppose,
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352055
TequilaHero
Neo Member
I couldn't find a thread for gaming mice/keyboards (just mechanical keyboards), so I thought I'd ask here.
I am in desperate need of a new mmo gaming mouse to play FFXIV, but am a girl with small hands. I was looking at a few on Amazon, but they were huge, and I could live with less programmable buttons.
I have an old Logitech G700 that I used to love (especially the scroll wheel dual dope-ness) but it is so buggy, I can't play with it anymore. I am scared to run a dungeon because it sucks so bad.
My budget is $40-50 (I know).
I am in desperate need of a new mmo gaming mouse to play FFXIV, but am a girl with small hands. I was looking at a few on Amazon, but they were huge, and I could live with less programmable buttons.
I have an old Logitech G700 that I used to love (especially the scroll wheel dual dope-ness) but it is so buggy, I can't play with it anymore. I am scared to run a dungeon because it sucks so bad.
My budget is $40-50 (I know).
Thanks for posting this haha. I've been thinking of buying a 750w PSU all week because I just upgraded everything in my PC but my 550w PSU. I'll save my money for now until I just wanna splurge
Glass Shark
Banned
This looks like a great option. I'm still researching others but this is my current frontrunner due to how clean it is inside and how much space there is for my very huge video card.
HarryDemeanor
Member
I would suggest just finding a store that sells mice like a Best Buy or a Frys and just try them out there. I have small hands and I had to try them in-person just to see if it would be comfortable. I'm using a Corsair Scimitar RGB right now and it's a little big but I haven't had any problems aside from getting used to it.
Hey guys, it's dream build time!
Not for me, but a friend. He wants to buy parts for the ultimate gaming PC. He will also use it for day trading, music production, and video editing. Has already ordered two ASUS PG348Q monitors and Pascal Titan X. Everything else still up for debate.
When I asked him about budget, he said he doesn't have one so go crazy. Obviously more expensive stuff should have some merit, not stupid shit like diamond encrusted ram modules.
But for reference, this is a guy who got bored of his 2016 Lamborghini Huracan after 3 months and traded it for a 2016 Porsche GT3RS because he wanted to go racing on the track with me.
Not for me, but a friend. He wants to buy parts for the ultimate gaming PC. He will also use it for day trading, music production, and video editing. Has already ordered two ASUS PG348Q monitors and Pascal Titan X. Everything else still up for debate.
When I asked him about budget, he said he doesn't have one so go crazy. Obviously more expensive stuff should have some merit, not stupid shit like diamond encrusted ram modules.
But for reference, this is a guy who got bored of his 2016 Lamborghini Huracan after 3 months and traded it for a 2016 Porsche GT3RS because he wanted to go racing on the track with me.
The G700 is wireless, IIRC. Did you want another wireless mouse?
TequilaHero
Neo Member
Thanks, you are right, but we don't have anything but Target and KMart, so I'm kinda forced to go with Amazon/Newegg with computer stuff. =)
Thanks for asking, I would prefer a wired one this time =)
You should try the Tech Support page, they are pretty good about helping out.
I had a similar issue with my new build at first. It ended up being incompatible memory due to the BIOS needing an update. Had to put older RAM in, then update BIOS.
But it could be improperly seated RAM or video cards (just push straight down on them to make sure they click in) too much/not enough thermal paste on CPU, fans not plugged in...
I had to dissasemble everything, put the CPU in, slap the cooler on and put power to all necessary places:
12v CPU, mobo 24-pin, CPU fans, and Panel 1 header.
After that you listen for beeps or look for codes if you don't have a chassis speaker.
If you hear 3 short beeps, turn it off and you're good to install the RAM.
Turn it on again and if that goes well, you should hear 8 beeps, turn it off.
Then install the video card and you should hear 1 beep and should see your mobo logo come up on screen.
If anything goes wrong in between these, more or less beeps for example, you know where the problem lies: either cpu, ram, or video card
If you like the dual mode scroll wheel and need a bit more buttons, maybe the g502? I don't have big hands and used this mouse for a few months and thought it fit well.
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