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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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LilJoka

Member
So, about M.2 SSDs. I'm seeing their performance, and it's bloody brilliant. However, I'm having trouble finding anyone talking about what performance means with gaming. I've currently added a Samsung EVO 950 Pro to my cart, since it's a fair priced outrageous performance SSD. Given the nature of drives, RAM and VRAM, this seems more about load times, obviously. It might even help with stutters, I guess. I wouldn't want a pagefile in a 16 GB RAM system, and I wouldn't put that pagefile on an M.2 anyway, so I guess that point is moot. If I have an SSD that performs well enough, am I really just looking at shaving off some seconds off of loading times by getting an M.2, or is there some other benefit I'm overlooking?

Will only help load times a tiny bit more.
 
So, about M.2 SSDs. I'm seeing their performance, and it's bloody brilliant. However, I'm having trouble finding anyone talking about what performance means with gaming. I've currently added a Samsung EVO 950 Pro to my cart, since it's a fair priced outrageous performance SSD. Given the nature of drives, RAM and VRAM, this seems more about load times, obviously. It might even help with stutters, I guess. I wouldn't want a pagefile in a 16 GB RAM system, and I wouldn't put that pagefile on an M.2 anyway, so I guess that point is moot. If I have an SSD that performs well enough, am I really just looking at shaving off some seconds off of loading times by getting an M.2, or is there some other benefit I'm overlooking?

3-5 seconds load time total on my M2 NVME Samsung 950 Pro. I had a 2x480GB RAID0 SSDs as boot drive, and it's a big difference when I jumped to the NVME-based 950 Pro.
 

jfoul

Member
So, about M.2 SSDs. I'm seeing their performance, and it's bloody brilliant. However, I'm having trouble finding anyone talking about what performance means with gaming. I've currently added a Samsung EVO 950 Pro to my cart, since it's a fair priced outrageous performance SSD. Given the nature of drives, RAM and VRAM, this seems more about load times, obviously. It might even help with stutters, I guess. I wouldn't want a pagefile in a 16 GB RAM system, and I wouldn't put that pagefile on an M.2 anyway, so I guess that point is moot. If I have an SSD that performs well enough, am I really just looking at shaving off some seconds off of loading times by getting an M.2, or is there some other benefit I'm overlooking?

I'm thinking about getting an M.2 NVME drive soon as well. Samsung is very close to releasing the 950 EVO to compete with the Intel 600p SSD.
 

Santar

Member
So my current PC is:
CPU: Intel Core i5-4670
MBoard: ASUS B85M-G, Socket-1150
16 gb RAM
Vidcard: GeForce GTX 760 2GB

I'm considering getting a GeForce 1070 but I'm not sure how much of a bottleneck my CPU will be.
Is it worth getting a 1070 for my setup?
Hopefully somebody much more knowledgeable about this than me can give a little insight :)
 

Ozorov

Member
I will buy a new monitor later this year but I've some questions.

My demands are 144Hz and with G-Sync, but it looks like I can't afford a 1440p-monitor so I'm looking for a 1080P one. Can I still render games at a higher resolution and downsample them down to the monitors native resolution or what's the best solution? Is it just to render the game at 1080P and crank everything up?
 

Echoes

Member
I have a weird problem. I overclocked the CPU and RAM but haven't done much testing for the RAM. I started noticing freezes with Doom and Wolfenstein, and realized it's probably the RAM. After stepping down little by little, I just decided I don't care for OCing my system altogether for now and just wanna play. I reset everything in the UEFI, but my Xbox One S Controller suddenly stopped working afterwards. It's the model that connects to the PC directly via Bluetooth (without the wireless adapter). It's been working fine for the past ~50 hours of gaming, but after the reset it's not connecting.

In the Bluetooth settings page it says "Paired", and when I turn the controller on it juggles between "Paired" and "Connected", with the Xbox light flashing (meaning it's searching for a connection). I removed the driver and tried installing again, etc to no avail. I can get it working when I connect it with a cable, but the Bluetooth connection suddenly stopped. I searched around but there's little to no talk about this new controller. I'd appreciate any help.

Quoting for the new page. It's a bizarre problem that I solved before by chance and can't replicate my solution again haha.
 

bomblord1

Banned
I'm wanting to upgrade from my r9 nano to a gtx 1080 for VR.

I mainly have 2 questions

1. Can I get a good non-founders edition 1080 that will fit in my case. My case has an absolute un-changeable maximum clearance of 10.5" for a GPU. Even an inch more and I would have to cut out the front of my case to make it fit (which is not an option).

2.Is the upgrade from the r9 nano (I am running above stock with MSI afterburner) worth the jump to the 1080 for the price? (I know that's subjective but let's put it this way it will eat a chunk into my savings and if the difference isn't that big I would rather not do it)
 
So my current PC is:
CPU: Intel Core i5-4670
MBoard: ASUS B85M-G, Socket-1150
16 gb RAM
Vidcard: GeForce GTX 760 2GB

I'm considering getting a GeForce 1070 but I'm not sure how much of a bottleneck my CPU will be.
Is it worth getting a 1070 for my setup?
Hopefully somebody much more knowledgeable about this than me can give a little insight :)

You'll be fine CPU-wise.

I'm wanting to upgrade from my r9 nano to a gtx 1080 for VR.

I mainly have 2 questions

1. Can I get a good non-founders edition 1080 that will fit in my case. My case has an absolute un-changeable maximum clearance of 10.5" for a GPU. Even an inch more and I would have to cut out the front of my case to make it fit (which is not an option).

2.Is the upgrade from the r9 nano (I am running above stock with MSI afterburner) worth the jump to the 1080 for the price? (I know that's subjective but let's put it this way it will eat a chunk into my savings and if the difference isn't that big I would rather not do it)

1.The EVGA FTW ($679 on newegg) is exactly 10.5" long. I coulnd't find any shorter ones but there may be some out there. E: check this tomshardware thread for any model under 267mm long.

2. Here's what seems like a pretty good comparison.
 

byropoint

Member
A question about 4k monitors:

I'd like to get a 4k display for productivity, it would really help me out, but I'd also like to continue running games at 1080p, how would that work on a 4k display?
 
Ok im currently using MSI Z87 G45, with Corsair Vengeance 8GB DDR3-1600, but one of the sticks died

Now im wondering can i put a single 8GB module to replace it, or should i just get another 4GB module

I would RMA the broken stick, but im lazy

You can just add 4GB of the same type of memory.

I have a weird problem. I overclocked the CPU and RAM but haven't done much testing for the RAM. I started noticing freezes with Doom and Wolfenstein, and realized it's probably the RAM. After stepping down little by little, I just decided I don't care for OCing my system altogether for now and just wanna play. I reset everything in the UEFI, but my Xbox One S Controller suddenly stopped working afterwards. It's the model that connects to the PC directly via Bluetooth (without the wireless adapter). It's been working fine for the past ~50 hours of gaming, but after the reset it's not connecting.

In the Bluetooth settings page it says "Paired", and when I turn the controller on it juggles between "Paired" and "Connected", with the Xbox light flashing (meaning it's searching for a connection). I removed the driver and tried installing again, etc to no avail. I can get it working when I connect it with a cable, but the Bluetooth connection suddenly stopped. I searched around but there's little to no talk about this new controller. I'd appreciate any help.

Is Bluetooth integrated in your motherboard? If that's the case I'd take a look in BIOS, maybe even reset everything to default.

I will buy a new monitor later this year but I've some questions.

My demands are 144Hz and with G-Sync, but it looks like I can't afford a 1440p-monitor so I'm looking for a 1080P one. Can I still render games at a higher resolution and downsample them down to the monitors native resolution or what's the best solution? Is it just to render the game at 1080P and crank everything up?

You can downsample, sure. Either via DSR or custom resolutions.

Not sure what you mean by best solution!
 
A question about 4k monitors:

I'd like to get a 4k display for productivity, it would really help me out, but I'd also like to continue running games at 1080p, how would that work on a 4k display?

Most games have in-game graphics settings. There, you should be able to select the display resolution at 1920x1080 to get 1080p. I don't think it is anymore complex than that.
 

byropoint

Member
Most games have in-game graphics settings. There, you should be able to select the display resolution at 1920x1080 to get 1080p. I don't think it is anymore complex than that.

I do know that, I phrased my question poorly, what I wanted to ask is how would a game running at 1080p look on a 4k display, would it cause any problems with scaling or any other kind of problem?
 

Ozorov

Member
You can just add 4GB of the same type of memory.



Is Bluetooth integrated in your motherboard? If that's the case I'd take a look in BIOS, maybe even reset everything to default.



You can downsample, sure. Either via DSR or custom resolutions.

Not sure what you mean by best solution!

Whats DSR?

If it's any backside with downsampling?
Lets say 1080P with high AA vs 1440p downsampled with less AA.
 
Whats DSR?

If it's any backside with downsampling?
Lets say 1080P with high AA vs 1440p downsampled with less AA.

DSR is a feature for easy downsampling - you just chose the resolution you want to downsample from in the in-game settings.

Only downside to downsampling (for me personally) is that the Steam overlay looks funky at higher resolutions. Some games are also less adapted to higher resolutions than others, which could mean smaller mouse or smaller UI in general, but this mostly affects older titles.

Regarding 1080p with AA vs. 1440p without AA - it depends on what kind of AA you're using. If a game lacks any real AA (like MSAA/SSAA) it's better to downsample. If the game supports MSAA, it's probably better to use that*, but you can still see some benefits by downsampling. Some games also support TAA or TXAA which is very effective, and while they can do great on their own you can see some benefits by downsampling here as well.

*unless it's Mankind Divided. MSAA works fine in other deferred DX11 renderers, like GTA V, Battlefield or Hitman.
 
I do know that, I phrased my question poorly, what I wanted to ask is how would a game running at 1080p look on a 4k display, would it cause any problems with scaling or any other kind of problem?
Since one pixel on at 1080p will scale exactly to 4 at 4k, it should look fine.

However for different applications, developers can implement different upscaling methods, which will vary the image output quality. You will need to see for yourself then.

Whats DSR?

If it's any backside with downsampling?
Lets say 1080P with high AA vs 1440p downsampled with less AA.

DSR is Nvidia's downsampling method, you can enable it in the NVidia control panel.

Higher res means higher clarity, post process AAs will smooth edge, not increase clarity. Unless it's MSAA, SSAA, etc. They are also supersampling from higher resolution.
 

Ozorov

Member
It's nvidias built in solution for downsampling through their gfe program.

DSR is a feature for easy downsampling - you just chose the resolution you want in the in-game settings.

Only downside of downsampling for me is that the Steam overlay is funky at higher resolutions. Some games are less adapted to higher resolutions than others, which could mean smaller mouse or smaller UI in general.

Regarding 1080p with AA vs. 1440p without AA - it depends on what kind of AA you're using. If a game lacks any real AA (and only supports FXAA) it's better to downsample. If the game supports MSAA, it's probably better to use that, but you can still see some benefits by downsampling.

Since one pixel on at 1080p will scale exactly to 4 at 4k, it should look fine.

However for different applications, developers can implement different upscaling methods, which will vary the image output quality. You will need to see for yourself then.



DSR is Nvidia's downsampling method, you can enable it in the NVidia control panel.

Higher res means higher clarity, post process AAs will smooth edge, not increase clarity. Unless it's MSAA, SSAA, etc. They are also supersampling from higher resolution.

Okey thanks guys!
 

byropoint

Member
Since one pixel on at 1080p will scale exactly to 4 at 4k, it should look fine.

However for different applications, developers can implement different upscaling methods, which will vary the image output quality. You will need to see for yourself then.

Thanks, I'll do some research into it.
 

kuYuri

Member
Which program uses all the memory?

That's just it, I added up all the processes and programs in task manager at the time and nothing that I saw used up enough memory to max out my RAM. It's possible I missed something, so I'll try to note everything I can next time it happens.
 
That's just it, I added up all the processes and programs in task manager at the time and nothing that I saw used up enough memory to max out my RAM. It's possible I missed something, so I'll try to note everything I can next time it happens.

Sounds like a memory leak. What programs were running when you hit 100% memory? It's probably one specific process, but if you want to be sure it isn't the RAM or something, you can try starting in safe mode or similar (i.e. only vital processes running) and see if the same thing happens.

There was a memory leak in CSGO a while ago, which was caused by idling in the menus for too long while being Alt-tabbed. The computer would become unusable after a while but the CSGO process itself didn't use more memory than usual.
 
I bought and installed a fury nitro, downvolted to -72 sometimes i hear a rattlign sound forma example when i exit a game or during some games, could it be coil whine? Also why if i installed it in the 1* slot it show as x4? Motherboard is a Asus z170 a and no other pci slot used.
 

Echoes

Member
Is Bluetooth integrated in your motherboard? If that's the case I'd take a look in BIOS, maybe even reset everything to default.

Bluetooth and WiFi are integrated, yes. My motherboard is Z170 Deluxe. I went to the UEFI and reset everything (CPU overclock is off, and XPS is disabled) but nothing changed.

When I go to Device Manager and choose to update the driver, this is what I get:

xboxdriver.png

1. "Xbox Controller" doesn't change anything.

2. "Xbox Gaming Device 2016" lets me see the device name in the Bluetooth settings, and shows that it's "Paired" but not "Connected". The Xbox controller keeps on flashing, meaning it's searching for a connection. I tried to click "Remove" from the Bluetooth page and paired again, but it doesn't change. When I choose this 2016 driver, the controller doesn't work when plugged in with a cable.

3. "Xbox Gaming Device 2014" allows me to use the controller when plugged in with a cable, but Bluetooth doesn't work. I can use the controller with Steam, but any Windows Store game (ReCore, Forza Apex) doesn't work - as in, these two games don't see the controller.

The third option would be an acceptable compromise (even though I bought this one specifically for the Bluetooth connection) if not for the fact that it doesn't work with Windows Store games. Another weird thing is that the Xbox Accessories app doesn't see this controller at all, even when it was working via Bluetooth.
 

Septimius

Junior Member
That's just it, I added up all the processes and programs in task manager at the time and nothing that I saw used up enough memory to max out my RAM. It's possible I missed something, so I'll try to note everything I can next time it happens.

Not knowing which windows etc it was, is it possible you were not seeing all tasks? There's some "show tasks from all users" thing, isn't there?
 
I bought and installed a fury nitro, downvolted to -72 sometimes i hear a rattlign sound forma example when i exit a game or during some games, could it be coil whine? Also why if i installed it in the 1* slot it show as x4? Motherboard is a Asus z170 a and no other pci slot used.

Don't think it's coil whine probably just the fans changing speeds maybe there's a cord hitting them? How's the temps when gaming? It could be one of the fans is faulty.
 

Vipu

Banned
I bought and installed a fury nitro, downvolted to -72 sometimes i hear a rattlign sound forma example when i exit a game or during some games, could it be coil whine? Also why if i installed it in the 1* slot it show as x4? Motherboard is a Asus z170 a and no other pci slot used.
Try some game with low settings and let fps go super high then you will hear if its coil whine.
 

Mine01

Member
Soooo I finally finished bulding my first pc... The bad news? The psu started making chirping noises why playing DS3, so I closed the game but the noises didnt stop, before I could turn off the pc it shut down itself and wont turn on anymore.

I hace a spare psu so I could check and everything is working fine so only the psu died( it was a no name psu I bought back at 2012) so ill have to buy a new psu, im looking at the Corsair cx650m.

Summary of my journey:
Bought hp prebuilt pc(non gaming) back at 2012. Changed the psu and gpu to a gtx560.

Fastforward to 2015 I bought a ps4, fastforward again sold it last month and bought a r9480.

Incompatible mobo, so bought new mobo.

Mobo didnt fit in my case so I bought a new case.

Old fans didnt reach the mobo in this new case, had to buy new fans.

Psu died, have to buy new psu.

Bulding pcs can be hard :( but going by the time I could sink into DS3 before the psu died it is really worth it.
 
Max 50/60 celsius, but the noise is not always there, could be the downvolting?

Downvolting would not cause a rattling fan noise there's something going on with one of the fans. If you can try to take off the side panel of your case and look at the card when it's making the noise to make sure all the fans are spinning correctly. If you just got the card you might want to think about returning it and getting a new one.
 

VE3TRO

Formerly Gizmowned
Are there any new monitors coming out from ASUS in the next few months? I've been wanting to grab a second VG248QE but thought about waiting it out incase they get price dropped.
 

Archpath1

Member
Any chance that the new gtx cards go on sale for black Friday/cyber Monday?
Gonna get a 1070 but not sure if I should try my luck near then
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
Time to start doing research on which 4K gync monitor to buy. The 34" Asus 21:9 widescreen looks physically amazing but I just don't prefer the wideness in actual usage. Buying a new monitor is probably my least favorite upgrade to do just because of quality control issues. Between backlight bleed, dead pixels, stuck pixels, etc... I wish there was a store where I could try out the monitor in store before agreeing to buy. :(
 

Evo X

Member
Time to start doing research on which 4K gync monitor to buy. The 34" Asus 21:9 widescreen looks physically amazing but I just don't prefer the wideness in actual usage. Buying a new monitor is probably my least favorite upgrade to do just because of quality control issues. Between backlight bleed, dead pixels, stuck pixels, etc... I wish there was a store where I could try out the monitor in store before agreeing to buy. :(

Check out the ACER XB321HK. It's what I'm using right now. 4K IPS GSYNC.

If you have a Microcenter near you, they have a no questions asked 30 day refund policy if you don't like the monitor. Amazon is good with returns too.
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
Check out the ACER XB321HK. It's what I'm using right now. 4K IPS GSYNC.

If you have a Microcenter near you, they have a no questions asked 30 day refund policy if you don't like the monitor. Amazon is good with returns too.
Thanks, good suggestions!
 
Downvolting would not cause a rattling fan noise there's something going on with one of the fans. If you can try to take off the side panel of your case and look at the card when it's making the noise to make sure all the fans are spinning correctly. If you just got the card you might want to think about returning it and getting a new one.

I think is coil whine, tried shadow warrior and at 170fps it start to do this strange noise very loud and intermittent. but also in gpuz it say PCI-E x16 @ x4 1.1 ?? using the render it goes to x4 3.0
 

enewtabie

Member
I'm rocking a 970, how well do you think I'll be able to run games at 1440?

Most likely will be getting a 1080 within 2 months anyway.


I honestly don't know about the 970.I'm using a 1070. I think going with the 1080 is the route I should have went and still might. Evga lets you upgrade within 90 days for the cost of the difference.
 

BPoole

Member
I'm looking for a 1440p Free sync monitor. IPS is preferred, but not required. Anyone have any suggestions or know of any new monitors releasing in the coming months that look promising? I want to stay in the $400 to $550 range.
 

enewtabie

Member
I'm looking for a 1440p Free sync monitor. IPS is preferred, but not required. Anyone have any suggestions or know of any new monitors releasing in the coming months that look promising? I want to stay in the $400 to $550 range.

Asus MG279Q would cover all of those bases.
 

Momentary

Banned
Looking for a new 21:9 monitor. Anything else on the horizon other than the X34P?

I see that LG has a new 37.5 inch panel... but it uses FreeSync. I was interested in it until I saw that.
 

enewtabie

Member
Looking for a new 21:9 monitor. Anything else on the horizon other than the X34P?

I see that LG has a new 37.5 inch panel... but it uses FreeSync. I was interested in it until I saw that.


LG is pretty much only Freesync in the Ultrawide market. Asus ultrawides have gsync. I have a feeling Dell will release a UW with Gsync down the road. Asus with the PG34Q and Acer with the X34. Aoc makes a monitor but I want to say it's a Freesync model.
 
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