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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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1.4V system agent voltage reared its ugly head again so I took the Asus Z270I out and put back my old
Board. Everything is fine now. My temps are also much much lower. I'm going to send it back to Newegg and replace it when they have them back in stock. Hopefully it's just that one board and not a widespread issue
 
I don't expect the 1080 Ti to affect 1080/1070 pricing if AMD still hasn't committed to releasing a competitor. With the Titan XP carrying a $200 premium versus the launch prices of its two predecessors, Nvidia has given itself plenty of room to price the 1080 Ti such that it's notably more expensive than the 1080 but still much cheaper than the Titan XP.

Even without competition from AMD, just how high can nVidia go and still have any real market? The Titan is barely a consumer card. How many people are going to pay $1,000 for a GPU?
 

teiresias

Member
I don't expect the 1080 Ti to affect 1080/1070 pricing if AMD still hasn't committed to releasing a competitor. With the Titan XP carrying a $200 premium versus the launch prices of its two predecessors, Nvidia has given itself plenty of room to price the 1080 Ti such that it's notably more expensive than the 1080 but still much cheaper than the Titan XP.

Well, yeah, I basically would just like to know what the price premium would be on a 1080 Ti over a 1080 and make a decision about paying that upcharge depending on performance delta from a regular 1080.
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
Ended up deciding to turn on my motherboard's RGB lighting and leave it set to the same color as the "Geforce GTX" text on the side of my reference GTX 780 Ti. :)
Blurry pic:
zcv19JK.jpg
 

Sevenfold

Member
Getting really annoying disconnects over USB with an Xbone Elite controller. The only game I play with a controller is Rocket League.
Symptoms: Just dies like I've pulled the plug. If I'm changing direction it just carries on (like when you have connection issues) otherwise I just stop. Started about a month ago (didn't install anything or do anything unusual that day) It's been once a session for the most part but last night it made me pull a major dick move in RL and happened again in the same match which was nice and I think I got man of the match.
Fix: Unplug replug. Takes about 5 seconds before it reconnects and it's torture.
Tried: Two different cables and all the holes I can fit them in.
Task manager and device manager open while playing. No spikes of any sort and device manager never shows the controller as disconnected (properties all good too.)
Running the game in the background with the Xbox accessories app open. No DC. Doing the same and inputting on the controller (for about 5 minutes until I got bored) with no DC. Fast running out of ideas and usb issues are a ballache to Google.

Any help greatly appreciated.
 

Gandie

Member
Getting really annoying disconnects over USB with an Xbone Elite controller. The only game I play with a controller is Rocket League.
Symptoms: Just dies like I've pulled the plug. If I'm changing direction it just carries on (like when you have connection issues) otherwise I just stop. Started about a month ago (didn't install anything or do anything unusual that day) It's been once a session for the most part but last night it made me pull a major dick move in RL and happened again in the same match which was nice and I think I got man of the match.
Fix: Unplug replug. Takes about 5 seconds before it reconnects and it's torture.
Tried: Two different cables and all the holes I can fit them in.
Task manager and device manager open while playing. No spikes of any sort and device manager never shows the controller as disconnected (properties all good too.)
Running the game in the background with the Xbox accessories app open. No DC. Doing the same and inputting on the controller (for about 5 minutes until I got bored) with no DC. Fast running out of ideas and usb issues are a ballache to Google.

Any help greatly appreciated.

Did you try and update the controller in the Xbox accessories app? This fixed some of my connectivity issues, although I'm using a regular controller without wires.
Have you tried other USB ports? Have you checked the USB port on the controller for damage?
 

Majine

Banned
My computer fails to post while RAM is in a dual channel configuration. If I switch to single channel, it works fine. Could be the motherboard or the RAM. The only other pair of sticks I have are old DDR3s, which is incompatible. Would suck to buy new ones only to find out its the motherboard.

How do I isolate this issue from here?
 

Sevenfold

Member
Did you try and update the controller in the Xbox accessories app? This fixed some of my connectivity issues, although I'm using a regular controller without wires.
Have you tried other USB ports? Have you checked the USB port on the controller for damage?

Yup. Latest firmware and Windows 10 up to date. if I run troubleshooting on hardware and devices I get Realtek and autoinstall latest drivers which I mention because more than one post on my hunt for solutions mentioned it being a problem when headsets were attached (weird enough to be a possibility I guess) but I haven't been able to reproduce this. Tried all ports 2.0 and 3.0 with and without fast charge on the port (I know it autodetects but desperation lol) on a Z170 board.
 

ISee

Member
My computer fails to post while RAM is in a dual channel configuration. If I switch to single channel, it works fine. Could be the motherboard or the RAM. The only other pair of sticks I have are old DDR3s, which is incompatible. Would suck to buy new ones only to find out its the motherboard.

How do I isolate this issue from here?

Did you buy both sticks in a bundle or separate? Sometimes ram sticks refuse to work together if bought separately (even if it is the exact same model).
 

Gandie

Member
My computer fails to post while RAM is in a dual channel configuration. If I switch to single channel, it works fine. Could be the motherboard or the RAM. The only other pair of sticks I have are old DDR3s, which is incompatible. Would suck to buy new ones only to find out its the motherboard.

How do I isolate this issue from here?

Try each stick in each slot and take notes. Also make sure, that your motherboard works with the RAM you're trying to install (compatibility list on the manufacturer's website)

Yup. Latest firmware and Windows 10 up to date. if I run troubleshooting on hardware and devices I get Realtek and autoinstall latest drivers which I mention because more than one post on my hunt for solutions mentioned it being a problem when headsets were attached (weird enough to be a possibility I guess) but I haven't been able to reproduce this. Tried all ports 2.0 and 3.0 with and without fast charge on the port (I know it autodetects but desperation lol) on a Z170 board.

What a weird issue. Did you try another machine? Try putting in new/different batteries (although they shouldn't be used while playing wired.) Try connecting the controller wirelessly to an Xbox or with a wireless stick on your PC.

If you're not having issues with other USB devices it's a controller issue. Try and isolate the problem.
 

ISee

Member
They were bundled. 2x8 GB DDR4.

Also no XMP profile activated I assume.
Never had this issue with a bundle tbh. You can of course plug in just one stick and do some testing on your own or try to stick them into another motherboard (maybe a friends) but honestly if they are new just return them and get something else.
 

Sevenfold

Member
What a weird issue. Did you try another machine? Try putting in new/different batteries (although they shouldn't be used while playing wired.) Try connecting the controller wirelessly to an Xbox or with a wireless stick on your PC.

If you're not having issues with other USB devices it's a controller issue. Try and isolate the problem.

Yep tried. don't really want to go wireless but it's looking more and more like that or RMA.
Different machine is next I guess.
Cheers anyway. I'll leave it to sizzle here on the off chance and continue in head/wall fashion.
 
My computer fails to post while RAM is in a dual channel configuration. If I switch to single channel, it works fine. Could be the motherboard or the RAM. The only other pair of sticks I have are old DDR3s, which is incompatible. Would suck to buy new ones only to find out its the motherboard.

How do I isolate this issue from here?

In addition to what's been previously suggested, if your motherboard has extra RAM slots, you can try seating the RAM in those if you haven't already. Thus you can isolate the actual slots as a factor.
 

NIN90

Member
I need a new 120mm case fan cuz my current one started rattling. Any recommendations or anything I should look out for?
 

rockx4

Member
Yep tried. don't really want to go wireless but it's looking more and more like that or RMA.
Different machine is next I guess.
Cheers anyway. I'll leave it to sizzle here on the off chance and continue in head/wall fashion.

Do you have multiple controllers plugged in? Happened to my xbox controller all the time, I also had a Steam controller plugged in. Sometimes it stops working, and neither controller works until I unplug one of them. I ended up removing my steam controller... never used it anyway.
 

JaseC

gave away the keys to the kingdom.
Even without competition from AMD, just how high can nVidia go and still have any real market? The Titan is barely a consumer card. How many people are going to pay $1,000 for a GPU?

While it wouldn't be all that shocking to see Nvidia place the 1080 Ti in the position formally occupied by the Titan, I'm expecting $749-$849 as the closer Nvidia gets to $999, the more people will feel that they're being asked to pay Titan money for an inferior card, which makes for a tougher sell.
 

Majine

Banned
In addition to what's been previously suggested, if your motherboard has extra RAM slots, you can try seating the RAM in those if you haven't already. Thus you can isolate the actual slots as a factor.

Got four slots, tried these ( I = RAM stick, o = Empty slot):

o | o | = Not working
| o | o = Not working
| | o o = Working
o o | | = Working
| o o o = Working
 
Got four slots, tried these ( I = RAM stick, o = Empty slot):

o | o | = Not working
| o | o = Not working
| | o o = Working
o o | | = Working
| o o o = Working

...What motherboard model do you have exactly? Because that seems really strange to me, given how most dual channel RAM setups are (usually being the alternating setup that you've indicated won't even work).

Edit: Oh, wait, that's precisely the problem here, duh. Sorry
 

Sevenfold

Member
Do you have multiple controllers plugged in? Happened to my xbox controller all the time, I also had a Steam controller plugged in. Sometimes it stops working, and neither controller works until I unplug one of them. I ended up removing my steam controller... never used it anyway.

No other controllers in use and the problem persists after all other USB devices removed and reboot to Big Picture Mode with just the pad. No difference in frequency for the issue.
 

rockx4

Member
No other controllers in use and the problem persists after all other USB devices removed and reboot to Big Picture Mode with just the pad. No difference in frequency for the issue.

Does the controller shut off completely? Does pushing the home button bring up the menu? I had the issue where none of the buttons worked in the game, but the controller still functioned in steam.
 
Can anyone recommend a decent VESA mount stand? I use one at work for my 27 inch but its so weak that the monitor sags a lot.

Ideally I'd like one that I can attach extra monitors in the future
 

DarthWoo

I'm glad Grandpa porked a Chinese Muslim
So I have a pre-built Dell system I got really cheap a couple years ago. It's one of those Inspiron jobs with a slightly smaller than usual case that at the time could only comfortably accommodate a 750 Ti due to the hard drive cage being in the way. It also only has a 300W PSU.

I've never had any power issues running the system with the 750 Ti, but I just learned of the existence of the 1050 Ti. If the 750 Ti runs just fine with a 300W PSU, should I probably be able to get away with the 1050 Ti without having to swap out PSUs?
 
So I have a pre-built Dell system I got really cheap a couple years ago. It's one of those Inspiron jobs with a slightly smaller than usual case that at the time could only comfortably accommodate a 750 Ti due to the hard drive cage being in the way. It also only has a 300W PSU.

I've never had any power issues running the system with the 750 Ti, but I just learned of the existence of the 1050 Ti. If the 750 Ti runs just fine with a 300W PSU, should I probably be able to get away with the 1050 Ti without having to swap out PSUs?

I believe so. The GeForce website lists 300W as the minimum.
 
While it wouldn't be all that shocking to see Nvidia place the 1080 Ti in the position formally occupied by the Titan, I'm expecting $749-$849 as the closer Nvidia gets to $999, the more people will feel that they're being asked to pay Titan money for an inferior card, which makes for a tougher sell.

I'm growing very impatient waiting for the 1080ti.

Just built a new PC and don't have a video card.

Honestly, I'll pay $1000 if it comes to it. Just don't want to buy a 1080 right now and then have the Ti come out a month or two later.

FTW2 sold out almost immediately at $680.
 

LilJoka

Member
My computer fails to post while RAM is in a dual channel configuration. If I switch to single channel, it works fine. Could be the motherboard or the RAM. The only other pair of sticks I have are old DDR3s, which is incompatible. Would suck to buy new ones only to find out its the motherboard.

How do I isolate this issue from here?

Do the old modules work in dual channel?
What is the model of the old and new kits?
 

Draft

Member
TECH SUPPORT TIME:

Interested in any suggestion for resolving the following issue:

Case: NZXT H440
MOBO: MSI Carbon Gaming Z270

Front audio jacks are hooked up to audio header on motherboard. When headphones are plugged into front audio jack drivers recognize them and switch audio output to front headphone jack. Audio quality through jack is terrible. Scratchy, volume dips in and out, static, etc.

Research shows this is commonly attributed to the MOBO sharing a ground between the audio header and other headers, like USB, etc. Can also be cheap wires allowing interference in the connection. I saw pictures of front panel circuit boards having things soldered off of them. That's above my pay grade.

Plenty of suggestions to just buy an ASUS Xonar card and use that. There's a part of me that's reluctant to fix a problem with my $175 motherboard or $100 case with a $50 expansion card. Like, it's the principle of the matter.

Any suggestions appreciated!
 
TECH SUPPORT TIME:

Interested in any suggestion for resolving the following issue:

Case: NZXT H440
MOBO: MSI Carbon Gaming Z270

Front audio jacks are hooked up to audio header on motherboard. When headphones are plugged into front audio jack drivers recognize them and switch audio output to front headphone jack. Audio quality through jack is terrible. Scratchy, volume dips in and out, static, etc.

Research shows this is commonly attributed to the MOBO sharing a ground between the audio header and other headers, like USB, etc. Can also be cheap wires allowing interference in the connection. I saw pictures of front panel circuit boards having things soldered off of them. That's above my pay grade.

Plenty of suggestions to just buy an ASUS Xonar card and use that. There's a part of me that's reluctant to fix a problem with my $175 motherboard or $100 case with a $50 expansion card. Like, it's the principle of the matter.

Any suggestions appreciated!

Firstly, have you installed the audio drivers suggested on the motherboard's support page? You'd be surprised how that can affect things.
 
Is this enough space for my gpu (msi rx 480 gaming) to stay cool ? Looks a bit too close to the psu..

Uo3F2be.jpg

Does the case have a vent below the PSU? If so you could flip it upside down.

Otherwise it's probably fine. If anything I would worry about the PSU, as the GPU will be dumping more heat than the PSU. But regardless I doubt it's a problem.
 

Lom1lo

Member
Thanks guys ! Now I have to wait for my new cables^^

@opticalmace
the fan of the psu points to the bottom, is this wrong ? The bottom has air vents and a dust filter.
 
Thanks guys ! Now I have to wait for my new cables^^

@opticalmace
the fan of the psu points to the bottom, is this wrong ? The bottom has air vents and a dust filter.

If there's a grill at the bottom, the intake fan of the PSU should be facing toward it. You want the PSU to pull in fresh air from outside the case. So the way you've mounted it is the way to go.
 

LilJoka

Member
TECH SUPPORT TIME:

Interested in any suggestion for resolving the following issue:

Case: NZXT H440
MOBO: MSI Carbon Gaming Z270

Front audio jacks are hooked up to audio header on motherboard. When headphones are plugged into front audio jack drivers recognize them and switch audio output to front headphone jack. Audio quality through jack is terrible. Scratchy, volume dips in and out, static, etc.

Research shows this is commonly attributed to the MOBO sharing a ground between the audio header and other headers, like USB, etc. Can also be cheap wires allowing interference in the connection. I saw pictures of front panel circuit boards having things soldered off of them. That's above my pay grade.

Plenty of suggestions to just buy an ASUS Xonar card and use that. There's a part of me that's reluctant to fix a problem with my $175 motherboard or $100 case with a $50 expansion card. Like, it's the principle of the matter.

Any suggestions appreciated!

Use the rear audio port?
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
From looking at the picture the bottom fan is pulling up cool air from outside the pc and blowing it upwards toward the gpu (a good thing). PC fans pull air through the "open" side of the fan and blow it out the side with the guards.
 

rrs

Member
From looking at the picture the bottom fan is pulling up cool air from outside the pc and blowing it upwards toward the gpu (a good thing). PC fans pull air through the "open" side of the fan and blow it out the side with the guards.
I tried doing that once with my GPU and it only managed to increase my temperatures, then again my GPU has fans that are failing so ???
 

sono

Gold Member
Hello. I am wanting to build a PC(s) capable to running x-plane 11 which is currently in beta, but should be released shortly. I am wanting to get a multi screen setup for front and side views for immersion.

I am reading that x plane 11 runs better multi screen with two or more pcs, so you can get e.g front and side views, so specs for second and third are also of interest.

I suspect this may not be cheap..
 
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