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"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
opticalmace
Member
Can't say I know any off-hand but check out slickdeals, there's usually a deal or two on monitors over there.
fluffydelusions
Member
RumblingRosco
Member
I love my ASUS VE247H 1080p monitor. It's outdated now, but I'd recommend whatever ASUS's modern equivalent is in the 24"/1080p category.
Irobot82
Member
Just picked up a Ryzen 3 1200, AsRock Pro4 mATX, 2TB HDD and an Antec case. $227
Will be back tomorrow to pick up the same thing again. Twins are freaking expensive. Still need RAM, two RX 560's or 1050ti's if they are cheap enough. One monitor, two keyboards, two mice and some windows keys. Oh and two wifi cards.
Will be back tomorrow to pick up the same thing again. Twins are freaking expensive. Still need RAM, two RX 560's or 1050ti's if they are cheap enough. One monitor, two keyboards, two mice and some windows keys. Oh and two wifi cards.
Bubble Metropolis
Member
I went and assembled the Ryzen 5 build I posted here last week. Since 2011, I've always used a 60gb SSD for my boot drive and I've always struggled with space, but I usually averaged 6-8gb of free space at any given time. Somehow after doing a clean Windows install, I've been hovering at around 2gb of free space, and that's after deleting Windows.old, etc.
So I went ahead and bought my first m.2 drive. The cheapest option for me in this country was a brand called Drevo. While the m.2 version of their drives have no reviews on Amazon, the standard SSDs they sell have a good amount of positive reviews.
Is anyone familiar with this brand? After looking at a bunch of SSD write/read speeds, it seems like all of the numbers are the same these days, no matter the brand or drive size (aside from NVMe) , so I imagine it's fine, but please do let me know if I've made a mistake.
So I went ahead and bought my first m.2 drive. The cheapest option for me in this country was a brand called Drevo. While the m.2 version of their drives have no reviews on Amazon, the standard SSDs they sell have a good amount of positive reviews.
Is anyone familiar with this brand? After looking at a bunch of SSD write/read speeds, it seems like all of the numbers are the same these days, no matter the brand or drive size (aside from NVMe) , so I imagine it's fine, but please do let me know if I've made a mistake.
Kwansu Dudes
Member
If I'm switching from Intel to AMD, is a fresh Windows install recommended? I cloned my old OS drive onto a new one and keep getting BSODs. I'd have to assume yes.
Bubble Metropolis
Member
As someone who just switched from Intel to AMD yesterday, my OS ran OK after installing my new MOBO and CPU, but I went with a clean stall anyway fo simplicity's sake.
Kwansu Dudes
Member
Hmm, that's reassuring. In the BIOS, everything looks ok (I can monitor/check every vital component) but I'll just double check to see if I missed a plug or something. Thanks!
From what I'm reading, there are two types: M key and B key (and M+B). M key are faster, B key are comparable to SATA and the primary advantage they have are form-factor and are used primarily in laptops. M+B run at the lower B key speed.
https://rog.asus.com/articles/maximus-motherboards/buying-an-m-2-ssd-how-to-tell-which-is-which/
opticalmace
Member
I think conventional wisdom is to reinstall when you swap from intel to amd or vice versa. Dunno why exactly.
Flying Toaster
Member
Technically you can run. I always suggest a clean install for the sake of removing one variable from the equation when troubleshooting odd issues.
Bubble Metropolis
Member
Thanks! Looking at the photos on Amazon, the Drevo m.2 drive is in an M+B orientation, but so are all the other comparably priced (WD, CruciaL) m.2 drives that I can find, so I guess I'll stick with it. If I were going to spend more than $100 on this I'd just jump to the 960 EVO.
Had the worst experience with Newegg. Not gonna try ordering anything from them again.
Ordered a 1060 and it was dead on arrival. I talked it with them on support, they told me to ship it back for a replacement. "Okay."
Sent it back. Didn't get a replacement, instead I got refunded...like over a lot less than what I paid for. Turns out they had included a "Free" Rocket League key with the card, gave it a value of $69 and didn't refund me that. They also didn't tell me I got a refund instead of a replacement, I only noticed that checking the account today.
After an unpleasant talk on support I got the Rocket League key refunded...and now I have to wait 3-5 business days for the 1060 to be refunded, and 3-5 more days on top of that for the Rocket League thing. They are not refunding me on shipping, though.
Like man, terrible experience :/
Super disappointed too. Canadian prices being what they are, I was pretty happy with what I paid for it. Kinda looking at Amazon now and they have some pretty cheap 1060 3GB, but the 6GB seems a bit too expensive right now...eh. Think I'll give up on this whole upgrade thing.
Ordered a 1060 and it was dead on arrival. I talked it with them on support, they told me to ship it back for a replacement. "Okay."
Sent it back. Didn't get a replacement, instead I got refunded...like over a lot less than what I paid for. Turns out they had included a "Free" Rocket League key with the card, gave it a value of $69 and didn't refund me that. They also didn't tell me I got a refund instead of a replacement, I only noticed that checking the account today.
After an unpleasant talk on support I got the Rocket League key refunded...and now I have to wait 3-5 business days for the 1060 to be refunded, and 3-5 more days on top of that for the Rocket League thing. They are not refunding me on shipping, though.
Like man, terrible experience :/
Super disappointed too. Canadian prices being what they are, I was pretty happy with what I paid for it. Kinda looking at Amazon now and they have some pretty cheap 1060 3GB, but the 6GB seems a bit too expensive right now...eh. Think I'll give up on this whole upgrade thing.
JonnyDBrit
Member
Having gone through this experience in reverse, it's doable but you have to go through and check/wipe as many as your old drivers as is feasible - including audio. That's what bottlenecked my performance in the Witcher 3 having gone from an FX-6350 to an Intel i7-6700k; once I deleted the driver and installed the one for my new motherboard instead, shot straight up to the full 60 fps I was expecting.
War Peaceman
You're a big guy.
Hey, I've been a mac user for a while but want a pc for gaming. Mostly DOTA, PUBG, old games. Are there any good deals for pre-built pc, budget around £500?
nightmare-slain
Gold Member
for £500 you'll struggle. the cheapest PC i could put together works out about £600 and that's not even including a copy of windows, a monitor, or keyboard/mouse. if you buy a pre built it'll likely cost more.
you'd be cheaper building it yourself and buying second hand parts if £500 is the absolute most you are willing to go. the build i put together had a 1060 but DOTA2/pubg aren't really that demanding so you could possibly buying a second hand 970 or something.
JonnyDBrit
Member
Insert traditional advice about building your own here.
More seriously, after doing a quick check around, if you can stretch that budget by another £20, you can get:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B071Z2ZMQ8/
It's admittedly the weaker GTX 1060 3GB model paired with a G4560, but that would still be good for gaming at 1080p on high to ultra settings. Or if you're looking for more of a bargain, you could have:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00AU4LP0U/
For £110 under your intended budget, though it's a GTX 1050 instead.
Mind, having attempted to put a similar build together in pcpartpicker, it's actually not easy atm. That second one is a decent deal for its price, and probably the one thing I'd be readily wary of would be the PSU.
Edit: Oh wait, PUBG. Hm, that might be demanding on the G4560.
acheron_xl
Member
So, the Battlebox with the 7700 and a 1080ti for $1750 is a good deal right? Sure seems like it.
RumblingRosco
Member
Just curious, but do you have any guide or info on how to figure out which folders to delete?
JonnyDBrit
Member
I did it mostly through device manager really, particularly making sure I could see hidden devices and then delete them. Stuff like Realtek Audio you almost forget are tied to your motherboard - well, I certainly did - so I guess... whatever your new motherboard has an equivalent for, should be the minimum of what you go back, delete, and replace.
The Hamburglar
Banned
Gaf need help.
All the keys and clicks on my computer are fucked.
Randomly today I can't type. Instead my keboard keys do other things. Escape tabs between programmes. Space acts if I am right clicking.
Left clicking something tries to Download it.
None of the letters work.
All the keys and clicks on my computer are fucked.
Randomly today I can't type. Instead my keboard keys do other things. Escape tabs between programmes. Space acts if I am right clicking.
Left clicking something tries to Download it.
None of the letters work.
JonnyDBrit
Member
First off, do you have a separate mouse and keyboard? At the very least, a different mouse, preferably a wired one? Need to tell if it's the inputs from the devices or how your computer is processing them.
ItalianJoe83
Member
Where's the "I need money for a new pc" thread link?
The Hamburglar
Banned
Keyboard is mechanical and mouse is sensi raw. Both wired and separate usb.
I did notice a chair was leaning on the keyboard for a minute earlier before it was powered on though. The keyboard was flashing as if a key was being held down. The weight of the chair was pressing s key down.
JonnyDBrit
Member
Hm... so it's definitely the PC not responding well to the signals. Is the keyboard still flashing that light, or is a general RGB thing? This will sound incredibly basic, but have you tried restarting it since?
The Hamburglar
Banned
No it isn't flashing now sInce its powered on. The lights are just on now. Yeah first thing I tried lol.
JonnyDBrit
Member
Okay. I presume your mouse and keyboard are currently connected through the front I/O, right? If so, perhaps try attempting them in a couple of USB slots directly on the motherboard. If they're actually hooked into the motherboard right now, try the reverse.#
Assuming you've also not done that already.
Wanting to just rule things out.
So I'm thinking I want to to do a Mini Itx build in the Phantek Shift case(August release) but I want to try Ryzen. Looks like there's only 3 choices for a mother board, Biostar,Gigabyte and Asrock. What Ryzen CPU would I look for 1440p/VR? I'm currently running 6700K/1070 in my main computer. Am I looking at the 1700X?
I want something comparable.
I want something comparable.
RumblingRosco
Member
The 1700/1700X/1800X are nearly identical. You can usually overclock all 3 to the same maximum with the 1700 maybe falling 100 MHz behind at worst on average. With that said, just get whatever is cheaper and you can probably use the stock cooler that's included with the 1700 for overclocks up to 3.8 GHz pretty reasonably and maybe even higher. The 1700X and 1800X do not come with coolers.
If you already have a cooler and don't need the 1700's included cooler, you can Ebay it for an easy $30+ to bring the cost down even further.
EDIT: This is assuming you overclock the CPUs. If you don't want to overclock, get the 1700X or 1800X, but really, you should just get the 1700 and OC.
nightmare-slain
Gold Member
1800X as it's the "best" they have on offer. In games it's not quite as good as the 6700K right now. Like the person above says you could probably get away with a 1700 or 1700X. All Ryzen 7 (not sure about 3 or 5) overclock. I think if it has an X then it means it overclocks on its own. Not exactly sure how it works.
You can overclock a 1700 to match the 1800x. They're basically the same CPU's at different clocks. Although 1800x also has the auto OC feature the 1700 doesn't.
RumblingRosco
Member
Let's say I have an AIO CPU as an intake, an AIO GPU as an intake, and a 200 mm exhaust. No others fans besides my PSU.
Would this be bad? Should I have an intake that is just pulling in cool air instead of my two radiators which, although pulling in cool air at first, are pushing that cool air through a warm radiator?
Would this be bad? Should I have an intake that is just pulling in cool air instead of my two radiators which, although pulling in cool air at first, are pushing that cool air through a warm radiator?
Voidwolf
Member
So I couldn't wait for the last few bits to arrive and put my pc together last Saturday, booted up fine on my first try which felt great, it's the third pc I put together but it's been a while. I was playing Nier Automata on Sunday and the game crashed (played just fine all Saturday night), thought it was the game, but then Forza Horizon 3 gave me a crash after about 10 minutes. Booted up the game again and I got a BSOD 20 mins in.
Ran stress tests and found errors with the memory, but then I remembered I manually set the clock speed to 3200 in the bios. I reverted it back to default and enabled XMP which set my it to 3200 at 1.35 volts (that's what I missed) and started testing again. Passed all tests and I left memtest running overnight just to be sure. I was so happy to wake up yesterday and see 0 errors. Everything played perfectly fine last night after that.
1080Ti and Corsair sleeved cables should be arriving today so I'll be popping it open again to do the cable management and swap out the 970! I'll post some pictures once it's all done.
Ran stress tests and found errors with the memory, but then I remembered I manually set the clock speed to 3200 in the bios. I reverted it back to default and enabled XMP which set my it to 3200 at 1.35 volts (that's what I missed) and started testing again. Passed all tests and I left memtest running overnight just to be sure. I was so happy to wake up yesterday and see 0 errors. Everything played perfectly fine last night after that.
1080Ti and Corsair sleeved cables should be arriving today so I'll be popping it open again to do the cable management and swap out the 970! I'll post some pictures once it's all done.
Booker.DeWitt
Member
which stress test do you use?
I am building my first PC this weekend
On that note, I have a question for everybody.
Once I build my PC, install windows, and everything seems to be ok (hopefully), what tests should I do to make sure all the parts are working fine? any specific stress test, benchmark, etc???
thanks
What's the general consensus on the best gaming monitors for around $130? Needless to say because of the price-range, I'm just looking for a 1080p@60Hz panel, but there seems to be a ton of monitors out there that have little-to-no reviews on them, making this shopping process a little tricky.
RumblingRosco
Member
At that price range and requirements, you're probably looking at a 24" monitor. Just find one with a 1ms response time from a well known manufacturer (Dell, ASUS, Acer, etc) and you're set. Bonus points if it has the ability to tilt/swivel in case you're into that.
Voidwolf
Member
I used Prime95 for the CPU, Memtest86 for the RAM, and FurMark for the GPU. And I monitored my temps and fan speed with CAM. First time trying that one out, I think Open Hardware Monitor is more widely used. Just use any known reliable software, I liked the slick UI in CAM, very simple.
You'll have to create a bootable image on a CD or flashdrive for Memtest and set your bios to boot from it if it doesn't already. It comes with a tool that will create the USB image for you, very straightforward. It'll run 13 tests on the RAM, the whole process takes a bit but it's best to let it do the default 4 passes (full run of each test) if you encounter 0 errors, just to be sure. Let it run even more overnight if you want although isn't necessary imo. Most errors will pop up in the first few tests though and those are quick.
Some people run Prime95 overnight and some folks do it for like 15+ hours. I think it's overkill... My CPU will never be at full load that long. 30 mins should be enough to know it's functioning correctly.
digitalrelic
Banned
GAF, I just needed somewhere to share my joy & excitement. I just finished running a 30ft HDMI cable down an air duct behind a wall from my PC in my upstairs gaming den down to my living room, where I have a 55" 4K Samsung KS8000.
I then ran two USB extension cables from my PC, with a bluetooth adapter for an xbox one controller plugged into one, and my wireless transceiver for a couch-appropriate kb/touchpad combo (Logitech K400) into the other.
I set up shortcuts to switch between displays really easily. Just hit ctrl+alt+L for living room display, or ctrl+alt+D for gaming den display.
I now have a fucking amazing setup. 34" Acer Predator X34 21:9 100hz UltraWide G-Sync in my gaming den, and a 55" 4k/60hz Samsung KS8000 4K TV in my living room. It's fucking bonkers. My thoughts are that I will use the 4K TV for most single player games, controller games, and local multiplayer games, and will use the 21:9 G-Sync for more kb/mouse oriented games and online competitive games.
Specs are as follows:
i7 7700k @5.2ghz (delidded/watercooled)
Asus ROG Strix 270G Gaming mobo
16GB 3733mhz Corsair Dominator DD4 RAM
GTX 1080 Ti w/ EVGA Hybrid Water Cooling Kit
1TB Samsung EVO 840 SSD
My only remaining challenge is to convince myself to ever leave the house again.
I then ran two USB extension cables from my PC, with a bluetooth adapter for an xbox one controller plugged into one, and my wireless transceiver for a couch-appropriate kb/touchpad combo (Logitech K400) into the other.
I set up shortcuts to switch between displays really easily. Just hit ctrl+alt+L for living room display, or ctrl+alt+D for gaming den display.
I now have a fucking amazing setup. 34" Acer Predator X34 21:9 100hz UltraWide G-Sync in my gaming den, and a 55" 4k/60hz Samsung KS8000 4K TV in my living room. It's fucking bonkers. My thoughts are that I will use the 4K TV for most single player games, controller games, and local multiplayer games, and will use the 21:9 G-Sync for more kb/mouse oriented games and online competitive games.
Specs are as follows:
i7 7700k @5.2ghz (delidded/watercooled)
Asus ROG Strix 270G Gaming mobo
16GB 3733mhz Corsair Dominator DD4 RAM
GTX 1080 Ti w/ EVGA Hybrid Water Cooling Kit
1TB Samsung EVO 840 SSD
My only remaining challenge is to convince myself to ever leave the house again.
Congrats lol sounds like that took a lot of effort.
That's awesome. Do you mind telling me what HDMI cable you used? I bought a 25 foot one from Amazon but it didn't work. No signal. Sent it back.
Flying Toaster
Member
This is what is ultimately awesome about PC gaming. It is hard to shift from PC to console except for exclusives when it became easy to just play stuff off of the TV. Have fun and remember to check to the mail and get the paper each day in the sunlight so you get a bit of sun exposure.
I'm looking for advice, a lightning killed some components of my computer and I don't know what I should do.
I have an insurance with which I can repair my computer for free at a local computer store and I can get these components through my repair for free:
I play on a BenQ XL2420T (1080, 120 Mhz), so should I replace any other components and if so which one ?
I have an insurance with which I can repair my computer for free at a local computer store and I can get these components through my repair for free:
I play on a BenQ XL2420T (1080, 120 Mhz), so should I replace any other components and if so which one ?
BeekleMatter
Member
Guys I'm taking my build and converting it to a Mini-ITX, I can't decide on a case. I'm looking for something cheap, short, and that has at some decent airflow.
- Cooler Master Elite 130
- Fractal Design Define Nano S
- SilverStone SG13B w/ the Mesh Front
- Thermaltake Core V21?
What do you guys think? I gotta fit a GTX770 and an ATX Modular PSU.
- Cooler Master Elite 130
- Fractal Design Define Nano S
- SilverStone SG13B w/ the Mesh Front
- Thermaltake Core V21?
What do you guys think? I gotta fit a GTX770 and an ATX Modular PSU.
Bloodember
Member
Well, obvious do the upgrade, since it's free. You'll probably need a new PSU since it was hit by lightning. A newer graphics card would be good also, if it's not overpriced.
RumblingRosco
Member
I have the V21. It's huge compared to even the largest mITX cases. It's on the large size even for your average mATX case. If you want a smaller case, get a mITX case, not a mATX case that can fit mITX boards (like the Core V21).
Don't get me wrong, the case is amazing for $35, but it's just not worth getting a case this large if you plan to get a mITX board.