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"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
Ooh that was fast, thanks!
As an owner of the case listed, it's great for looks and cable management.Dude you're awesome. Thanks so much.
meh. I'd pocket the $100 and get the 1070
opticalmace
Member
What prices are we talking about btw?
Garou
Member
You would be paying 25% more, but you wouldn't always get 25% more performance.
opticalmace
Member
Anyone got a Fractal Design Define C?
Thinking about ordering one off NCIX for $80. http://www.ncixus.com/products/?sku=137307&usaffiliateid=1000031504
Never ordered from NCIX (US) before... any reason not to?
Thinking about ordering one off NCIX for $80. http://www.ncixus.com/products/?sku=137307&usaffiliateid=1000031504
Never ordered from NCIX (US) before... any reason not to?
Hey Bloodember,
Don't be upset with me. :3
But due to my ignorance/unfamiliarity with most of the terms in the OP, I spent today watching videos and trying to learn as much as I can.
G-Sync is amazing. I would like it. Lol.
It's my understanding that G-Sync is done 100% through the monitor? I don't need a special GPU for it? Or perhaps I do, but the GPU you already suggest will be able to handle it?
Thanks!
EDIT: God, sorry. Still learning. So it seems FreeSync is the same thing as GSync but doesn't require a monitor with a chip in it? And is cheaper? What's the downside?
EDIT 2: May as well ask in the same post. Leaning about supersampling now. I understand it's a way to get rid of jaggies. But I looked up a visual comparison, and it seems performance is much worse with the supersampling enabled?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AWqG95_edDQ
Or am I misunderstanding? Thanks guys.
I've ordered from Canadian NCIX tons of times before, quite happy with them, but I mean it's mainly because they're only a few hours from where I live so shipping is only a day or two every time.
Can't imagine there being any reason not too assuming they ship from inside the US for you.
Bloodember
Member
Gsync is for Nvidia cards and freesync is for AMD cards. Gsync also raises the price of a monitor ten fold. Freesync does not as AMD doesn't charge to use it.
Super sampling is an anti-aliasing technigue. Some consider it a brute force alternate of msaa.
jim2point0
Banned
The G403?
Hmmm. Does it have to be? It comes with it's own USB dongle. Plug it into a USB slot and you have a wireless mouse.
Supersampling\downsampling is running a game at a higher resolution and having it scaled to your display resolution in real-time. Yeah, that will clear up jaggies. And yes, it comes at a heavy performance cost. But if you have power to spare, it's the best way to make your games look better.
Makes your games look like a bullshot in motion
ISee
Member
The GTX 1070 is a 7.3 tflops card at 1900 MHz
The GTX 1080 is a 9.7 tflops (+33%) card at 1900 MHz.
Even just +20% would be worth it for $100, imo. Of course only if you already have a CPU that can keep up (modern i5/r5 1600)
Looking for some final advice and some questions, been a while since I put together a new system. The current plan is a system that pushes 120Hz main for competitive MP games but also where ever else possible on SP games:
I suppose the question right now is, do I hold out at all for Volta or Coffee-lake or will my waiting ultimately not be worth it? I'm aware waiting for one part will lead you to wait forever but I'm also ok with holding off for a bit longer if people feel it's right decision. I'm also not 100% sold on my case choice just yet so other suggestions would be welcome, as well as any suggestions for replacing other parts.
I suppose the question right now is, do I hold out at all for Volta or Coffee-lake or will my waiting ultimately not be worth it? I'm aware waiting for one part will lead you to wait forever but I'm also ok with holding off for a bit longer if people feel it's right decision. I'm also not 100% sold on my case choice just yet so other suggestions would be welcome, as well as any suggestions for replacing other parts.
Bloodember
Member
Looks good. As for waiting, no. We don't know when Volta will come out and coffee-lake isn't a good enough upgrade to wait on.
Putting together a rig for my little brother. Wants to play 1080p on high-ultra, AMD GPU is a must for freesync. We're sure on the case, monitor and GPU brand, open to other suggestions. This is the top of his budget, so no going higher!
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1500X 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($185.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte - GA-AB350M-D3H Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($89.33 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill - Aegis 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($56.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial - MX300 275GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($99.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Sapphire - Radeon RX 570 8GB NITRO+ Video Card ($221.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: NZXT - Source 210 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($48.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair - CSM 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($89.89 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: NZXT - RF-FN122-RB 45.0 CFM 120mm Fan ($7.99 @ NZXT)
Case Fan: NZXT - RF-FN122-RB 45.0 CFM 120mm Fan ($7.99 @ NZXT)
Monitor: Samsung - C24F390 24.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor ($167.99 @ Adorama)
Keyboard: Logitech - K120 Wired Standard Keyboard ($9.89 @ OutletPC)
Mouse: Logitech - SBF-96 Wired Optical Mouse ($5.98 @ OutletPC)
Other: Extreme 3D Pro Joystick for Windows ($34.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1097.76
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-31 09:40 EDT-0400
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1500X 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($185.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte - GA-AB350M-D3H Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($89.33 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill - Aegis 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($56.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial - MX300 275GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($99.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Sapphire - Radeon RX 570 8GB NITRO+ Video Card ($221.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: NZXT - Source 210 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($48.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair - CSM 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($89.89 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: NZXT - RF-FN122-RB 45.0 CFM 120mm Fan ($7.99 @ NZXT)
Case Fan: NZXT - RF-FN122-RB 45.0 CFM 120mm Fan ($7.99 @ NZXT)
Monitor: Samsung - C24F390 24.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor ($167.99 @ Adorama)
Keyboard: Logitech - K120 Wired Standard Keyboard ($9.89 @ OutletPC)
Mouse: Logitech - SBF-96 Wired Optical Mouse ($5.98 @ OutletPC)
Other: Extreme 3D Pro Joystick for Windows ($34.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1097.76
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-31 09:40 EDT-0400
Bloodember
Member
IMO you need to get 16gb of ram, I know some will say otherwise but Ive used at least 16gb for years now.
I'm also pretty sure the X model CPUs don't come with a cooler.
Agreed, down the road for sure. I'm running on 8gb now and have been for a year, so I think he'll be good for a while.
As for the 1500x I checked and it does. 1500x on Amazon
Thanks for the input!
jim2point0
Banned
First world problems and all, but I felt the EVGA 1080Ti FTW3 was too hotloud in my system. So I decided to try the Strix. So far, much quieter and cooler... but also clocks about 50-60mhz less with a LITTLE coil whine.
Probably not worth it to try and return the Strix for another to see if it fares better, huh? Overall though, I'm happy with it. EVGA.... ya let me down!
Probably not worth it to try and return the Strix for another to see if it fares better, huh? Overall though, I'm happy with it. EVGA.... ya let me down!
Vulcano's assistant
Banned
So the kingpin is probably going to be crazy loud then. Now I know why there are so many 2.5 and 3 slots models.
Going to want DDR4-3200 ram too. Because those CPUs are thirsty for fast ram.
I heard that, but it will definitely bump him out of budget. 3000mhz might be cheap enough.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1500X 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($185.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte - GA-AB350M-D3H Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($89.33 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($71.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial - MX300 275GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($99.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Sapphire - Radeon RX 570 8GB NITRO+ Video Card ($221.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: NZXT - Source 210 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($48.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair - CSM 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($89.89 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: NZXT - RF-FN122-RB 45.0 CFM 120mm Fan ($7.99 @ NZXT)
Case Fan: NZXT - RF-FN122-RB 45.0 CFM 120mm Fan ($7.99 @ NZXT)
Monitor: Samsung - C24F390 24.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor ($167.99 @ Adorama)
Keyboard: Logitech - K120 Wired Standard Keyboard ($9.89 @ OutletPC)
Mouse: Logitech - SBF-96 Wired Optical Mouse ($5.98 @ OutletPC)
Other: Extreme 3D Pro Joystick for Windows ($34.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1112.76
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-31 11:05 EDT-0400
jim2point0
Banned
Maaaaybe. It does have a better heatsink, but I think these 1080Tis just run too hot for dual-slot coolers. A lot of people do say that their FTW3 cards run cooler than mine did. But I went through 2 of them before trying the Strix, and the Strix is just way cooler somehow.
That said, you don't buy the Kingpin to run it on air. It will perform the same as the other 1080TIs on air. It will shine when the limits are removed for LN2 with maybe some slight improvements on water.
Does it make that much difference from 3000mhz RAM? That's what I have....
Hey guys, even though I don't have everthing for my PC yet (graphics card, hdd and PSU), I began to screw and plug stuff in yesterday.
I have the ASRock AB350 Pro4 and my case is the Sharkoon T3-W. There are just so many cables coming out of the case front that I just don't know where to plug in what. There was no manual, neitheris there one on the website. Especially, the Power LEDs and the front fans' cables are confusing me.
I will just go by my uploader's chronology:
So, there are two of those double-black things. I suppose that they are my front fans. However, I have no idea where to plug them in. The big "sticks", sure, I'll have to find the correct plugs on the SPU. But where are the corresponding Pins on the mainboard? In the manual of another Sharkoon case there is a similar cable and it says I have to either plug it in the SPU OR the mainboard. Does this hold? But I cannot find the Pins. There are 2 Pin things topcorner, right, which do have something to do with LED, but one of them is the CPU Fan LED (which my cooler does not have). Do I plug them in there? And if so, one of my biggest problems of the case: Which direction, ffs? There are no markings whatsoever on the cable. This problem will be mentioned again.
The other SPU-cable thing comes out from I don't where, the white green one, I mean, and I have NO idea what it is and why it only has 2 pins. I hate theses cables.
Now to the USB3.0 cable:
I guess this little thing with USB on it is just in case my mobo doesnt have USB3.0, right? If not, there is nothing where I could plug it in near the 3.0 port.
Okay, the last problem is, as mentioned, the direction of pins and groundation, in regard to the power/reset/HDLED cables.
So, on the back of for example the powerswitch (it's blood, not dirt under my nail, btw^^), there is this little arrow. BUT in the manual, the PowerBt is only one pin, not two. I suppose that Power and ResetBt both have their own Groundation? If so, which one is it? The one where the little arrow is or the other one? The same problem I have with HDLed. Which is +, which - ? It also only have a litle arrow. If I didnt miss somtehing, my case doesnt have a cable for the PLED + -, which would be okay for me - but does the mainboard care? do I have to occupy every pin? And if yes, what do I do now? Also, one of the GND pins would remain free(i also would not know which one, because of the directions). Is that bad? I just don't know
Oh and I remember. I only use either the small ATX power block or the large one with my SPU, right?
I hope my english wasn't too bad.
I have the ASRock AB350 Pro4 and my case is the Sharkoon T3-W. There are just so many cables coming out of the case front that I just don't know where to plug in what. There was no manual, neitheris there one on the website. Especially, the Power LEDs and the front fans' cables are confusing me.
I will just go by my uploader's chronology:
So, there are two of those double-black things. I suppose that they are my front fans. However, I have no idea where to plug them in. The big "sticks", sure, I'll have to find the correct plugs on the SPU. But where are the corresponding Pins on the mainboard? In the manual of another Sharkoon case there is a similar cable and it says I have to either plug it in the SPU OR the mainboard. Does this hold? But I cannot find the Pins. There are 2 Pin things topcorner, right, which do have something to do with LED, but one of them is the CPU Fan LED (which my cooler does not have). Do I plug them in there? And if so, one of my biggest problems of the case: Which direction, ffs? There are no markings whatsoever on the cable. This problem will be mentioned again.
The other SPU-cable thing comes out from I don't where, the white green one, I mean, and I have NO idea what it is and why it only has 2 pins. I hate theses cables.
Now to the USB3.0 cable:
I guess this little thing with USB on it is just in case my mobo doesnt have USB3.0, right? If not, there is nothing where I could plug it in near the 3.0 port.
Okay, the last problem is, as mentioned, the direction of pins and groundation, in regard to the power/reset/HDLED cables.
So, on the back of for example the powerswitch (it's blood, not dirt under my nail, btw^^), there is this little arrow. BUT in the manual, the PowerBt is only one pin, not two. I suppose that Power and ResetBt both have their own Groundation? If so, which one is it? The one where the little arrow is or the other one? The same problem I have with HDLed. Which is +, which - ? It also only have a litle arrow. If I didnt miss somtehing, my case doesnt have a cable for the PLED + -, which would be okay for me - but does the mainboard care? do I have to occupy every pin? And if yes, what do I do now? Also, one of the GND pins would remain free(i also would not know which one, because of the directions). Is that bad? I just don't know
Oh and I remember. I only use either the small ATX power block or the large one with my SPU, right?
I hope my english wasn't too bad.
Bloodember
Member
Here's a build with 16gb of ram with a better motherboard and power supply, imo.
If you want to save more money you can get a key for Windows 10 pro from play- Asia for $20.
RumblingRosco
Member
Someone linked $20 Windows licenses from PlayAsia a page or two back. Could grab that and it'd easily give you room for faster RAM within your budget.
Sweet thanks! This is very helpful. I like the Gigabyte boards, I have the same series so I'll go with that. But the bump to 3000mhz RAM is doable. Good call on the PSU
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1500X 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($185.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte - GA-AB350M-D3H Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($89.33 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws 4 Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($119.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Crucial - MX300 275GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($99.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Sapphire - Radeon RX 570 8GB NITRO+ Video Card ($221.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: NZXT - Source 210 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($48.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic - G 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($48.98 @ NCIX US)
Case Fan: NZXT - RF-FN122-RB 45.0 CFM 120mm Fan ($7.99 @ NZXT)
Case Fan: NZXT - RF-FN122-RB 45.0 CFM 120mm Fan ($7.99 @ NZXT)
Monitor: Samsung - C24F390 24.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor ($167.99 @ Adorama)
Keyboard: Logitech - K120 Wired Standard Keyboard ($9.89 @ OutletPC)
Mouse: Logitech - SBF-96 Wired Optical Mouse ($5.98 @ OutletPC)
Other: Extreme 3D Pro Joystick for Windows ($34.99 @ Amazon)
Other: Windows 10 ($20.00)
Total: $1069.76
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-31 11:30 EDT-0400
jim2point0
Banned
Time to throw your case into another case.
With all those fans, that case could cool my case.
Saw that this morning and knew that's where the link would take me
Maybe when I'm rich lol
TheOnlyMook
Member
A bunch of bills ruined my upgrade plans and pushed it off until end-of-summer (or maybe forever, I guess we'll see), but it finally gave me an excuse to overclock my 2500K to 4.5Ghz.
I'm surprised how much of a difference I'm getting in games like Battlegrounds. Not much stuttering anymore and I'm getting way steadier and higher framerates. Should have done this Day 1.
I'm surprised how much of a difference I'm getting in games like Battlegrounds. Not much stuttering anymore and I'm getting way steadier and higher framerates. Should have done this Day 1.
I know people who could probably sit in that case.
BolognaOni
Member
So, on the back of for example the powerswitch (it's blood, not dirt under my nail, btw^^), there is this little arrow. BUT in the manual, the PowerBt is only one pin, not two. I suppose that Power and ResetBt both have their own Groundation? If so, which one is it? The one where the little arrow is or the other one? The same problem I have with HDLed. Which is +, which - ? It also only have a litle arrow. If I didnt miss somtehing, my case doesnt have a cable for the PLED + -, which would be okay for me - but does the mainboard care? do I have to occupy every pin? And if yes, what do I do now? Also, one of the GND pins would remain free(i also would not know which one, because of the directions). Is that bad? I just don't know
Oh and I remember. I only use either the small ATX power block or the large one with my SPU, right?
I hope my english wasn't too bad.
The fans can either plug into headers on the motherboard, or they can plug into the power supply directly. That first picture looks like a "tap" for plugging the fans into the power supply. Put them on the motherboard if you can.
For USB, that connector is to hook up the USB ports in the case to the motherboard. Should be a header for it somewhere- check the manual. If not, not a big deal, just the USB ports on the case won't work.
Power/Reset buttons both get ground connections. Header is wired so that you can put the power/reset on either horizontal or vertical and it should still work. Polarity (which pin of the connector is ground) on those switches shouldn't matter.
Polarity on the LEDs does matter. Assume that the arrow goes to + and try that. If it's backwards you won't hurt anything, the LED just won't turn on (so then you turn it around).
Don't worry about extra pin headers, you don't have to occupy every pin.
Thanks for the answer.
I don't understand what you mean with tap, regarding thefirst picture's weird 2pin-connector.
So here is manual, on p. 7 & 8 are the mobo information: http://asrock.nl/downloadsite/Manual/AB350 Pro4.pdf . 17 & 18 are "Chassis Fan Connectors". Are these what I need? They have four pins, while the plug only has three. Also: Will the green LED on the fans just run by themselves when they are connected there?
I don't understand what you mean with tap, regarding thefirst picture's weird 2pin-connector.
Sorry for the bad picture. On the USB pic, the long USB3.0 connector is already connected (the fat cable), and this USB-connector just dangles around.
Okay, that's great. If I can't destory anything, that's good enough for me. Thanks again!
Although I had planned to upgrade this spring/summer, the announcement of the new Intel i7-7740X makes me think I should wait.
I don't like the idea of purchasing a CPU and mobo that are so new to market. My preference is to give such things a little time to mature before pulling the trigger.
Unfortunately, that makes the wait that much longer.
I currently have an i5-4670k and a GTX 980Ti that have been extremely stable, so I'm not dying by any stretch of the imagination.
What do you think?
I don't like the idea of purchasing a CPU and mobo that are so new to market. My preference is to give such things a little time to mature before pulling the trigger.
Unfortunately, that makes the wait that much longer.
I currently have an i5-4670k and a GTX 980Ti that have been extremely stable, so I'm not dying by any stretch of the imagination.
What do you think?
digitalrelic
Banned
Can anyone give me an idea of what I might be able to get out of my barebones rig?
It would have everything but a videocard:
i7 4790k
Asus Z97-A Motherboard
16GB RAM
1TB 7200RPM HDD
Windows 10 Professional
NZXT Kraken X61 Liquid Cooling
NZXT S340 Mid Tower Case
EVGA SuperNOVA 1300 G2 Gold Power Supply
Noctua Case Fans
Super clean, organized build.
Thanks!
It would have everything but a videocard:
i7 4790k
Asus Z97-A Motherboard
16GB RAM
1TB 7200RPM HDD
Windows 10 Professional
NZXT Kraken X61 Liquid Cooling
NZXT S340 Mid Tower Case
EVGA SuperNOVA 1300 G2 Gold Power Supply
Noctua Case Fans
Super clean, organized build.
Thanks!
CountAntonius
Member
Really not sure what to think but this has been going on for sometime now it's gotten worse.
On windows 10. My mouse would randomly disconnect you hear the constant ping of it connecting and disconnecting. The light would stay on but it wouldn't move. I had to like shake it around or reconnect it to make it work again. It happened with two different mouses on any of the usb ports front and back. Bought a new power source and still have the issue.
I've just learned to deal with it but it's made playing game with my mouse a pain. This has been ongoing for months. Reformated recently and still does it but now it's started doing it to my kb as well. Only twice but when it happens I can't get the mouse or kb to work at all. No matter how many times I reconnect it.
This happens on the front usb as well. Seems like it's not giving them enough power but my Power source is new and I completely reformatted so if i had any bad settings those would be gone right? I've googled it and people say to change the power settings on usb hubs to not automatically turn off when your pc needs power and that hasn't worked either. Is my Mobo just dying?
On windows 10. My mouse would randomly disconnect you hear the constant ping of it connecting and disconnecting. The light would stay on but it wouldn't move. I had to like shake it around or reconnect it to make it work again. It happened with two different mouses on any of the usb ports front and back. Bought a new power source and still have the issue.
I've just learned to deal with it but it's made playing game with my mouse a pain. This has been ongoing for months. Reformated recently and still does it but now it's started doing it to my kb as well. Only twice but when it happens I can't get the mouse or kb to work at all. No matter how many times I reconnect it.
This happens on the front usb as well. Seems like it's not giving them enough power but my Power source is new and I completely reformatted so if i had any bad settings those would be gone right? I've googled it and people say to change the power settings on usb hubs to not automatically turn off when your pc needs power and that hasn't worked either. Is my Mobo just dying?
OK, the time has come. I'm buying parts later tonight following GAFs guide.
But i need specifics... for instance, i'm going for a regular GTX1080... but do we have a consensus on what brand/model is the best? Same goes for memory... i'm going 16 gigs but have no idea if corsair is still the one to go after.
Hit me with specific recommendations, and be gentle on my wallet, i'm on a budget.
But i need specifics... for instance, i'm going for a regular GTX1080... but do we have a consensus on what brand/model is the best? Same goes for memory... i'm going 16 gigs but have no idea if corsair is still the one to go after.
Hit me with specific recommendations, and be gentle on my wallet, i'm on a budget.
BolognaOni
Member
Glad that helps a bit. For the fans, you can plug that 3-pin connector into the 4-pin headers on the board, and they will still work. The plug should still fit, and it is shaped to get you on the correct 3 pins. Fans with a 4-pin connector use an extra signal to control the fan speed, which is a bit nicer. You might need to play around with the BIOS to get any sort of speed control working.
The additional 2 pin/ 4pin connector looks like an option that allows the fans to connect directly to the power supply.
You are correct on the USB- that's an extra plug in case your MB doesn't have 3.0, so for you it just dangles unconnected.
Bloodember
Member
Brands of video cards don't really matter, just get the one you like. As for Ram, most brands will work, just make sure they offer a lifetime warranty. I use G.Skill exclusively though.
Vigilant Walrus
Member
Guys, do any of you have any experience with; http://www.v1tech.com/store/ ?
I'm interested backplate for a GPU. Wondering if these guys are legit or if there are better options elsewhere. Looking for a white GPU backplate. not sure which brand.
I'm interested backplate for a GPU. Wondering if these guys are legit or if there are better options elsewhere. Looking for a white GPU backplate. not sure which brand.
Like Bloodember said, there isn't really the graphic card, but there are some slight differences. EVGA's for example is slightly smaller than the others and can fit easier into more cases. The one offered by Asus has two HDMI ports while the others only have one. On the other hand Zotac's offering is faster than the others but is rather expensive and is the largest of them all.
Right now if you want the most absolutely light on the wallet card go for Gigabyte.
http://www.coldzero.eu/5-gpu-backplates
Could check these guys out too. I had both sites in mind when I was thinking about buying a backplate for the msi 970 lol.
Got my g1 1070, gonna install it when I get home. Hopefully I don't have enough any issues with it.
recruiting
I'm starting work on a Calibration |OT| and if anyone would like to contribute lemme know and I'll send the google doc link. I'm in the market for an X-Rite i1Display Pro so I've done a lot of reading and realise not even AV Forums has something comprehensive and ELI5
I'm starting work on a Calibration |OT| and if anyone would like to contribute lemme know and I'll send the google doc link. I'm in the market for an X-Rite i1Display Pro so I've done a lot of reading and realise not even AV Forums has something comprehensive and ELI5
Hi there, first time to PC Building. Trying to get out of console gaming as my main form of gaming, and I want to stop using my old laptop, as it's meant for workstation processes, not for gaming.
For baby's first PC, my budget is around ~$1200 (USA), though I can go up or down a few hundred if necessary. It'll mostly be used to play 6 month old games around high-ultra settings, though the most important thing is a consistent 1080p, 60 fps. I'm also hoping to be able to stream low impact games like League of Legends at a consistent 60 if possible. Some Autodesk usage will be added at some point as well. No plans to overclock right now, maybe if I get more knowledge about it in the future.
Feel free to add any thoughts and suggestions, perhaps either to get the price down or to add efficiency. Thanks :^)
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600X 3.6GHz 6-Core Processor ($239.88 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($26.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI - B350 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard ($94.99 @ Jet)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($126.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO 250GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($107.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($46.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1070 8GB SC GAMING ACX 3.0 Black Edition Video Card ($393.89 @ B&H)
Case: Fractal Design - Define R4 w/Window (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($84.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($78.89 @ OutletPC)
Optical Drive: Asus - DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($18.69 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($89.89 @ OutletPC)
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte - GC-WB867D-I PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter ($29.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $1339.96
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-31 20:06 EDT-0400
For baby's first PC, my budget is around ~$1200 (USA), though I can go up or down a few hundred if necessary. It'll mostly be used to play 6 month old games around high-ultra settings, though the most important thing is a consistent 1080p, 60 fps. I'm also hoping to be able to stream low impact games like League of Legends at a consistent 60 if possible. Some Autodesk usage will be added at some point as well. No plans to overclock right now, maybe if I get more knowledge about it in the future.
Feel free to add any thoughts and suggestions, perhaps either to get the price down or to add efficiency. Thanks :^)
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600X 3.6GHz 6-Core Processor ($239.88 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($26.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI - B350 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard ($94.99 @ Jet)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($126.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO 250GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($107.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($46.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1070 8GB SC GAMING ACX 3.0 Black Edition Video Card ($393.89 @ B&H)
Case: Fractal Design - Define R4 w/Window (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($84.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($78.89 @ OutletPC)
Optical Drive: Asus - DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($18.69 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($89.89 @ OutletPC)
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte - GC-WB867D-I PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter ($29.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $1339.96
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-31 20:06 EDT-0400