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"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
jim2point0
Banned
There's always DSR to squeeze out every last bit of image quality and really make use of that 1080ti for games where you have performance to spare. I'm still downsampling in a few games where 3440x1440 is too easy for this card
Yes. Most CPUs these days have a dual channel memory controller. If you use a single stick you only get half the memory bandwith. Some high end CPUs have quad channel memory and need 4 sticks to max out the memory bandwith.
RumblingRosco
Member
Hey so I am 100% sure I should have followed this advice more closely. I think I just fried two SSDs.
After more plugging and unplugging I found the new PSU seems to be working - I forgot to plug in both split parts of my MB cable into the PSU (I left off the smaller, ~10 pin connector). So I ran the wires that came with the PSU for the GPU and MB, but for my accessories (2 SSDs, 1 HDD), I already had a wire that worked and that was nicely ran into the case from my old PSU, so I thought "sure, the plug fits the PSU, let's use it!"
Flip on PC and I hear a "bzzt" sound and then the PC posts to the BIOs after giving me an error that it can't find the boot drive. I turn off the PC, remove the power plug, and go "well shit let's replace that cable." Replace the old accessory cable with the one that comes with my new PSU, plugging it into my SSDs and HDD. PC powers on, same boot error. In the BIOS I see my HDD but my SSDs are not detects by the MB. From my PSU, the first SSD is connected, then my HDD, then the last SSD (all on the same accessory power cable).
I'm lead to believe I just nuked both my SSDs and hopefully didn't also wipe my HDD, but we'll see about that. Gonna reseat all of them and then try just running with only my boot drive plugged in. If all that fails, I'm gonna assume I zapped the SSDs.
I looked at the PSU-end of the accessory cables and sure enough, the ground pin is in a different slot. So, yeah, PSU cables are not interchangeable between PSUs as Bloodember advised. My first time replacing a PSU rather than an entire system build or just swapping in a GPU. This is an expensive lesson learned, assuming those SSDs are truly dead. Thankfully I they're older 120 GB SSDs and not new, expensive/large ones.
Built my new PC and was playing Battlefield when I heard what sounded like a fan start to spin very briefly. Then the screen went black. Rebooted and still black screen but the PC was definitely on. Switched to the integrated video adapter and that worked. In Windows the device manager no longer sees my graphics card, a Gigabyte 1080 Windforce. Nvidia control panel says there is no card. I tried changing the BIOS primary display from Auto to PEG but that didn't work.
I think my video card died. Is there anything else I can try?
Motherboard is an ASUS STRIX Z270G. Video card is a Gigabyte 1080 Windforce. The video card has a blinking white LED next to its 8 pin power connection. The fans are not spinning. Thanks if anyone has any ideas.
I think my video card died. Is there anything else I can try?
Motherboard is an ASUS STRIX Z270G. Video card is a Gigabyte 1080 Windforce. The video card has a blinking white LED next to its 8 pin power connection. The fans are not spinning. Thanks if anyone has any ideas.
Maybe the Corsair Air 540? That thing looks made for cooling.
JonnyDBrit
Member
Try your second PCI-E lane? To make sure it's the card and not the connection.
Edit: Oh, also see if you can find another 8 pin connector. Could be a power delivery issue.
I did try the other pci slot with no luck. I'll see if I have another 8 pin power cable.
Would the GPU be showing up somewhere in the BIOS info if it was working? I can't recall if I saw it in there previously when it was working before.
Edit: found the section in the BIOS. It says no VGA card in either slot.
So, this is a little embarrassing. I went to swap with a different power cable and I could see I hadn't pushed in the first one all the way. It's working now. Odd that it worked at all in the first place. Anyway, thanks a lot for taking the time to respond. Thought I was going to have to return the card.
Also, that flashing white LED is off now so that is probably a warning that it is underpowered.
Also, that flashing white LED is off now so that is probably a warning that it is underpowered.
manfestival
Member
Hey friends, is there any hope of me reselling my Xeon e3 1231 for a decent price? Seriously consider getting the ryzen 1700x and hoping it's a big enough boost for me to not have to replace my 970 with a 1070
dcx4610
Member
I always go full tower on my builds. It's overkill but I like the room and most importantly, the air flow. It's not for everyone but my favorite case over the past several years is the Thermaltake Core V71. Two huge 200mm fans in the front, add two exhaust on top and a 140mm in the back. My case is cold to the touch and despite the fan sizes, amazingly quiet. You definitely know it's on but it sounds just like a small fan on in the room and blends into the background.
Cooler Master and Corsair also make high air flow cases. Full towers with 2 big front fans and 2 top exhaust fans and you can't go wrong.
Ok, feeling out of the loop since the last upgrade was an i7 2600k and mono with ram in 2011 or so.
Every upgrade since has been video cards, and I'm now on a 1070. I feel like my card is being held back because I'm bumping into games at 1440p having issues staying past 60fps. I've got about 32 gb of ram as well.
I'd like to get an i5 7000 series and need some help with parts.
My case is good, just need a mobo, cpu and ram to maximize my gaming. My water cooler is still going strong, got it about 3 years ago and keeps my i7 at 50c or so under heavy load (which has always been its temp with the water cooler since I got the cooler)
I'm a bit overwhelmed by options for parts and it's been about 6 years since I had to do all the research again.
Every upgrade since has been video cards, and I'm now on a 1070. I feel like my card is being held back because I'm bumping into games at 1440p having issues staying past 60fps. I've got about 32 gb of ram as well.
I'd like to get an i5 7000 series and need some help with parts.
My case is good, just need a mobo, cpu and ram to maximize my gaming. My water cooler is still going strong, got it about 3 years ago and keeps my i7 at 50c or so under heavy load (which has always been its temp with the water cooler since I got the cooler)
I'm a bit overwhelmed by options for parts and it's been about 6 years since I had to do all the research again.
Bloodember
Member
What's your budget? Atx, mATX, or itx? Is the CPU, ram, and mothetboard all you need?
Read this: http://www.gamersnexus.net/guides/2867-intel-i7-2600k-2017-benchmark-vs-7700k-1700-more/page-3
The 2600K is actually close in performance to a modern i5 in gaming (give or take). If you're not upgrading to a 7700k/R1700, it may not be worth doing. Is the 2600K overclocked? If not, and if you have a decent cooler, it's definitely worth considering for the ~15% boost in FPS (depending on your achievable clocks and the game).
Is it possible that those games you're struggling to hit 60fps are just absurdly GPU-demanding or iffy ports? No shame in dropping down settings to high in the heavily CPU-limited titles.
Sorry, idk my budget is like 600? Id like to get away with bare minimum to have a solid running pc with at 60fps at 1440p downsample.
Atx, my case is a beast so I have room. Yeah, all I need is mobo cpu and ram
Idk, I'm playing battlefield 1 at 1080p and high settings and getting drops to 40fps regardless if I'm in 1080 or 1440 downsample. Ashes of the singularity benchmark hits me at 45 fps regardless of medium or high dx11 or dx12. Total warhammer at 1080p high struggled keeping 60 in battles and usually went to 45 to 55.
I tried OC, but my cpu kept hitting 70c idle with a very small jump on the oc scale.
I just feel like I'm not getting the same performance I see on all the 1070 benchmarks where they are using a better cpu.
What CPU cooler are you using? Is it possible your CPU is throttling performance to to keep itself from overheating?
What 1070 model do you own? Is it an aftermarket model or the reference/founder's?
EDIT: And if you haven't already, go into the Nvidia control panel and under global settings, set power management mode to "adaptive". Then under program settings, set the power management mode for Battlefield 1 (and all the other games individually) to "prefer maximum performance".
FE edition 1070, and I think I turned off limiter stuff in bios. When I run cpu load tests, it doesn't throttle if it reached higher temps
I picked up this mobo since its one of the only micro atx that actually has the PCI-E slot ABOVE the main PCI-E 3.0 slot. I want nothing but GPU air blowing down for air flow and didn't want the network card getting in the way. So this seemed like the perfect card for my mATX build
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...&cm_mmc=TEMC-RMA-Approvel-_-Content-_-text-_-
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...&cm_mmc=TEMC-RMA-Approvel-_-Content-_-text-_-
mugoldeneagle03
Member
I don't want to sound like a lazy asshole but can one of ya'll hook me up with some recommendations on Amazon for a nice desktop? My girlfriend and I are looking into getting a Gaming PC for the first time (she has iMac, I use Alienware Alpha) but I don't want to fuss with building for now.
I probably won't be using VR, but she's interested in streaming and I'd like a beefier system that's somewhat future-proofed so I don't have to hassle with upgrading anytime soon. I also don't know if I really need a 1080 or if it's even worth it, or much at all about individual parts for what it's worth.
For those willing to help out a noob feel free to PM me if ya want, and thanks in advance!
I probably won't be using VR, but she's interested in streaming and I'd like a beefier system that's somewhat future-proofed so I don't have to hassle with upgrading anytime soon. I also don't know if I really need a 1080 or if it's even worth it, or much at all about individual parts for what it's worth.
For those willing to help out a noob feel free to PM me if ya want, and thanks in advance!
I've been noticing little fps stutters, seems to happen every 15-20secs, even with games running at higher frame rates, playing ffxiv this morning it was 110fps, but would periodically drop down to 90fps when, for an instant, my screen hitches, then immediately goes back up to 110, I never noticed this while using my old 7870.
P8Z77-V Pro
i5-3570k
RX 580
8GB DDR3 RAM (DRAM Frequency = 686, dual channel, so I assume that's 1300MHz?)
A friend told me the RAM might be too slow and upgrading that could fix it. Any suggestions?
P8Z77-V Pro
i5-3570k
RX 580
8GB DDR3 RAM (DRAM Frequency = 686, dual channel, so I assume that's 1300MHz?)
A friend told me the RAM might be too slow and upgrading that could fix it. Any suggestions?
This could be a FFXIV specific thing (there's an even an nvidia guy getting hitching at 80-100FPS: https://www.reddit.com/r/ffxiv/comments/2rx5c4/stutter_with_60_stable_fps/
Do you have the latest ATI driver?
The i5-3570K, even OC'd, might struggle to hit such high framerates, but I don't know what you should be getting in FFXIV.
Bloodember
Member
It happens in Witcher 3 too, I have the latest driver, not OC'd, it just seems weird for it to be 100+ fps, and for a fraction of a second it completely stops, then goes right back up to 100+fps. It's a blink and you'd miss it sort of thing, but happens too often for me to ignore. I have the latest drivers.
If he goes this route, don't forget the CPU cooler.
EDIT:
Someone posted this on the geforce forums, might be relevant: https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/836519/pc-games/witcher-3-stuttering-despite-80-fps/
The 3570k might not be capable of a stable 100+ FPS in The Witcher 3, which is CPU-demanding. (I have a 3570k, but OC'd)
Ahh thanks, will look into that some more, and Witcher 3 usually sits 65-70fps, when it hitches it drops to 55. I've been using an old TV for years, might look into a freesync monitor.
opticalmace
Member
Picked up a Fractal Design Define C... looking forward to building with it. My last couple builds have been in Phanteks enclosures so it'll be fun to check out a different brand.
What are the temps at load
Remove the side panel after 10 minutes of consistent load temps, if the temps drop a bunch then your fan setup is all wrong.
No point jumping on a new case just yet, if cooling is optimum then the benefit will be marginal at best.
Bloodember
Member
No, it's 200Mhz, get the cheaper one.
Ok. Any suggestions or advice on this build
CPU: Intel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($339.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG - H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus - STRIX Z270-E GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($142.68 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB STRIX GAMING Video Card ($779.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair - 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($54.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1432.63
Oops. RAM is the 3000 version.
CPU: Intel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($339.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG - H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus - STRIX Z270-E GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($142.68 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB STRIX GAMING Video Card ($779.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair - 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($54.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1432.63
Oops. RAM is the 3000 version.
Vulcano's assistant
Banned
Did a couple of i5 builds last year both with the Cryorig H7. If you are aiming to OC it is probably pushing it.
edit: wait. did I made this comment to you before? I know I made it before, It'll be a bit awkward if I keep repeating myself to the same person who already told they weren't going to OC..
I never said I wasn't going to overclock. I've had a lot of thoughts about this build but was told to not go for the 212 Evo again and that the H7 was a newer and better option.
That's obviously why I posted it here in case I messed up a suggestion. Sorry if you did say something.
What do you suggest?
Is there any reason to currently OC a 7700K? I will plan on doing it once it's needed but I'm not planning on doing it right away. Kind of like the 2500k, OC when it becomes smart to do so. Which is what I did and bought a new Cooler to help with that.
Vulcano's assistant
Banned
Ok so here's what I know. Both of my brother have i5 6600K with a Cryorig h7, they say temps could be better every time they tried to go over 4.5ghz. So I suspect it will be more constraining for a 7700K.
Maybe you can go for the bigger brother of the H7, the Cryorig R1 Universal, a Noctua - NH-D15, or some liquid cooling solution.
I have a Thermalright Macho Rev B. for a 5820K that I simply don't suggest because it is to big, you need 15cm of height clearance.
Kinda, BF1 MP and Ubisoft games will take whetever your 7700K gives.
If you're looking into small OCs then no problems.
If you want to drive it like the old 2500K it takes more work: de-lid + strong cooler + good lottery luck (only 59% of tested 7700Ks were able to hit 5.0GHz or greater).
Damn ok. Thanks. Looks like I'm going to have to figure out a better cooling solution then and re do some finances lol. I'll look into those and just save up some more money then. The D15 seems huge and annoying to work around.
Im now wondering if a 7700k is even worth that amount of work now. Lol.
jim2point0
Banned
It was a learning experience for me. Sucker definitely runs hot but hitting 5Ghz is easy once delidded.
With the temp spiking issue and the terrible TIM, I definitely regret the 7700k. I'm not going to be delidding it, but I plan to be rid of it ASAP. I'm not happy with the Asus Hero Z270 motherboard either.
Can someone give me a quick rundown on how to mess with RAM speeds? I've got 3200 RAM with a compatible motherboard, and I've managed to get it from a default 2133 to 2667, but I'd like to get it to at least 2933 since I have a Ryzen processor.
I've tried the suggested voltage/times (3200 16-18-18-38 @ 1.35V) but it didn't work.
I've tried the suggested voltage/times (3200 16-18-18-38 @ 1.35V) but it didn't work.
AtlantiC_CodeX
Neo Member
So I am looking to gather a new build. I am the biggest noob when it comes to this, the last time I had a gaming pc was around 2011 and I've been only gaming on console since so I don't know much about the hardware that's around these days.
I will be mostly using this one for games, video editing, and web browsing/media etc... From a quick look around I am looking to for the cheapest build around the RX 460 that would give me basic 1080p gaming. My budget is around 400-600CAD.
I just bought this monitor last week, I'm hoping it's good for gaming? I've been contemplating returning it and getting a curved or wide monitor instead?
I'm not sure if I need to fill the form below but here it is:
Your Current Specs: a 6 year old laptop with a broken screen ^^"
Budget: 400-600CAD, Canada
Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest: Light Gaming 2, Gaming 5, Emulation (PS2/Wii/Wii U) 0, Video Editing 5, Streaming games in HD 2, 3D/Model work (and what program) 1, General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback) 5.
Monitor Resolution: What resolution will you be playing your games at? (1080p, 1440p, 4K (2160p) Are you going to upgrade later? -Maybe to a Wide display 1440p- Are you buying a new monitor? - Just bought a 1080p 27"-
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: -BF1, GTAV, new and upcoming games in general- Is 30FPS acceptable? -Yes, it's the aim- 60? -Would be great if but not at a higher $ increase- 144? -Probably way out of my budget- How important is PhysX / SuperSampling / CUDA / GSYNC / FREESYNC to you? - I don't know much about any of those-
Looking to reuse any parts?: List make and model (e.g. Corsair 750TX, 640GB SATA HDD, Antec 900) - I have a 500 GB HDD sitting around-
When will you build?: Do you have a deadline? How long can you wait? - Preferably by June 11th -
Will you be overclocking?: Yes, No, Maybe (This means yes!)
I will be mostly using this one for games, video editing, and web browsing/media etc... From a quick look around I am looking to for the cheapest build around the RX 460 that would give me basic 1080p gaming. My budget is around 400-600CAD.
I just bought this monitor last week, I'm hoping it's good for gaming? I've been contemplating returning it and getting a curved or wide monitor instead?
I'm not sure if I need to fill the form below but here it is:
Your Current Specs: a 6 year old laptop with a broken screen ^^"
Budget: 400-600CAD, Canada
Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest: Light Gaming 2, Gaming 5, Emulation (PS2/Wii/Wii U) 0, Video Editing 5, Streaming games in HD 2, 3D/Model work (and what program) 1, General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback) 5.
Monitor Resolution: What resolution will you be playing your games at? (1080p, 1440p, 4K (2160p) Are you going to upgrade later? -Maybe to a Wide display 1440p- Are you buying a new monitor? - Just bought a 1080p 27"-
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: -BF1, GTAV, new and upcoming games in general- Is 30FPS acceptable? -Yes, it's the aim- 60? -Would be great if but not at a higher $ increase- 144? -Probably way out of my budget- How important is PhysX / SuperSampling / CUDA / GSYNC / FREESYNC to you? - I don't know much about any of those-
Looking to reuse any parts?: List make and model (e.g. Corsair 750TX, 640GB SATA HDD, Antec 900) - I have a 500 GB HDD sitting around-
When will you build?: Do you have a deadline? How long can you wait? - Preferably by June 11th -
Will you be overclocking?: Yes, No, Maybe (This means yes!)