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"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!

Celcius

°Temp. member
How much value would you put on having an IPS screen over a TN screen given that all other factors are equal? Is it worth the 200-250 EUR premium?

That's something you would have to decide based on your preferences, tolerances, budget, and purpose for using the monitor. Would it be possible for you go to an electronics store such as MicroCenter or Fry's and see the difference in person?
The larger the monitor is the bigger a difference IPS will make over TN as far as viewing angles, color shift, and such. At 27" or larger I personally would recommend an IPS panel over TN. My current monitor is TN but it's only 23" and it's been fine to me.
 

RS4-

Member
Need some advice here: Just saw a used ASUS GTX 1080 STRIX on Kijiji for $640 Canadian. Is that a good buy, or am I better off just getting a new one or even the 1080 Ti at this point of the product cycle?

Used TIs here are about 900-1000 CAD.
 
Some TNs are better than others. I went from an Asus TN to a IPS and while I prefer the IPS, it's not mind blowingly different.

If you can go IPS I would but I wouldn't break the bank either unless you can afford. That said, I probably wouldn't go back to TN but I would go VA. You might want to look into some VA panels if you can as I feel they are the best of both worlds.

Sadly I can't go for a VA panel as I would end up having to give up features like G-Sync or 1440p, both of which I would consider to be of higher value. Right now I'm looking at the S2716DG for TN and the PG279Q for IPS, both of which are basically identical aside from the panel type.

That's something you would have to decide based on your preferences, tolerances, budget, and purpose for using the monitor. Would it be possible for you go to an electronics store such as MicroCenter or Fry's and see the difference in person?
The larger the monitor is the bigger a difference IPS will make over TN as far as viewing angles, color shift, and such. At 27" or larger I personally would recommend an IPS panel over TN. My current monitor is TN but it's only 23" and it's been fine to me.

I don't think I'll have much luck trying to find any brick and mortar electronics stores over here, most of them basically operate as webshops only. The monitors I'm looking at are both 27", but it's 596 EUR vs 820 EUR. I just want to be sure I'm getting value out of the extra investment.
 

dcx4610

Member
Sadly I can't go for a VA panel as I would end up having to give up features like G-Sync or 1440p, both of which I would consider to be of higher value. Right now I'm looking at the S2716DG for TN and the PG279Q for IPS, both of which are basically identical aside from the panel type.



I don't think I'll have much luck trying to find any brick and mortar electronics stores over here, most of them basically operate as webshops only. The monitors I'm looking at are both 27", but it's 596 EUR vs 820 EUR. I just want to be sure I'm getting value out of the extra investment.

Well, I can definitely vouch for the PG279Q which is what I have now. It's excellent all around. You do get a slight bit of a IPS glow in the corners but at least on mine, it's more than acceptable. Excellent color, good blacks, even backlight etc. I won't be upgrading again until 4k monitors become commonplace and GPUs are powerful enough.

It was expensive but I figure I'll get at least 3-5 years out of it and for something I use every day, it's worth it.
 

Bloodember

Member
Well, I checked my CPU and motherboard and could not find any bent pins, but when I put it together again it seems to be working. I am pretty sure I did nothing different with the wires, so I must assume I somehow managed to put the RAM in wrong several times.

Thanks for the help everyone, hopefully it's smooth sailing now. Got Windows installed and everything.
Glad to hear you got it working.
 
Well, I can definitely vouch for the PG279Q which is what I have now. It's excellent all around. You do get a slight bit of a IPS glow in the corners but at least on mine, it's more than acceptable. Excellent color, good blacks, even backlight etc. I won't be upgrading again until 4k monitors become commonplace and GPUs are powerful enough.

It was expensive but I figure I'll get at least 3-5 years out of it and for something I use every day, it's worth it.

Oh, that's a convenient coincidence. I'll weigh my options a bit more and decide after that, I still need to wait for some other components to arrive for my new build first anyway. Thanks!
 

Bloodember

Member
Well, since people are paying stupid prices for AMD graphics cards right now, I decided to sell my XFX Radeon RX 480, and sold it this morning. I promptly sent it to it's new owner and drove to Microcenter and bought a EVGA Superclocked Geforce GTX 1070, for a whopping $100 after using the money from the 480.
 
Can someone give me a quick rundown on how to mess with RAM speeds? I've got 3200 RAM with a compatible motherboard, and I've managed to get it from a default 2133 to 2667, but I'd like to get it to at least 2933 since I have a Ryzen processor.

I've tried the suggested voltage/times (3200 16-18-18-38 @ 1.35V) but it didn't work.

Is it Samsung B die or Hynix? I can't get my Hynix RipJaws over 2666 with any sort of stability despite being rated at 3200.

Have you updated your Mobo bios?

It's a brand new architecture, so BIOS updates are coming along pretty frequently as it matures. Almost every BIOS update has had RAM compatibility fixes.
 

rtcn63

Member
Well, since people are paying stupid prices for AMD graphics cards right now, I decided to sell my XFX Radeon RX 480, and sold it this morning. I promptly sent it to it's new owner and drove to Microcenter and bought a EVGA Superclocked Geforce GTX 1070, for a whopping $100 after using the money from the 480.

The mining thirst is def real
 

Kadey

Mrs. Harvey
Streaming can now use GPUs so if people are thinking about streaming, you shouldn't necessarily worry about CPU which anything that came out within the last year is good enough to stream anything at 720p anyway and still have juice to do more things.
 

Jarnet87

Member
I might still pull the trigger on a Corsair One if I go with a prebuilt, but all the talk about how hot the 7700k runs is scaring me off some. I don't think I would go with that CPU if I did my own build.
 

Tobe

Member
just doing an update on my burnt pc. is it possible that the router alongside the ethernet cable being the culprit?
 
Really not sure what to think but this has been going on for sometime now it's gotten worse.

On windows 10. My mouse would randomly disconnect you hear the constant ping of it connecting and disconnecting. The light would stay on but it wouldn't move. I had to like shake it around or reconnect it to make it work again. It happened with two different mouses on any of the usb ports front and back. Bought a new power source and still have the issue.

I've just learned to deal with it but it's made playing game with my mouse a pain. This has been ongoing for months. Reformated recently and still does it but now it's started doing it to my kb as well. Only twice but when it happens I can't get the mouse or kb to work at all. No matter how many times I reconnect it.

This happens on the front usb as well. Seems like it's not giving them enough power but my Power source is new and I completely reformatted so if i had any bad settings those would be gone right? I've googled it and people say to change the power settings on usb hubs to not automatically turn off when your pc needs power and that hasn't worked either. Is my Mobo just dying?

So I read it could just be my usb ports failing on the motherboard. Bought a PCI USB expansion and it wasn't doing it at first and it started up again. rarely but still doing it. What the hell can this be? It's been on two separate mouses, a new power supply, multiple complete reformats and now an entirely new set of usbs. Any ideas?
 

Kaelan

Member
Looking to get some feedback on this build, used a lot of advice people in this thread gave me and outside friends and this is what I came up with. Mainly gonna be used for gaming, along with mixing/mastering music as i'm an artist (adobe audition). Not really interested in overclocking either.

CPU: Intel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG - H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler
Motherboard: MSI - Z270 SLI PLUS ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive + Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card
Case: Corsair - SPEC-ALPHA (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply

Total: $1296.54
 

Renekton

Member
So I read it could just be my usb ports failing on the motherboard. Bought a PCI USB expansion and it wasn't doing it at first and it started up again. rarely but still doing it. What the hell can this be? It's been on two separate mouses, a new power supply, multiple complete reformats and now an entirely new set of usbs. Any ideas?
Do you have any self-powered USB hub ?
 

dcx4610

Member
Looking to get some feedback on this build, used a lot of advice people in this thread gave me and outside friends and this is what I came up with. Mainly gonna be used for gaming, along with mixing/mastering music as i'm an artist (adobe audition). Not really interested in overclocking either.

CPU: Intel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG - H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler
Motherboard: MSI - Z270 SLI PLUS ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive + Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card
Case: Corsair - SPEC-ALPHA (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply

Total: $1296.54

Looks good. I don't know anything about that CPU cooler though.

We're only weeks away from the new Intel CPUs. I'd advise anyone looking to build right now to just wait a month. The new CPUs look really promising.
 

dcx4610

Member
Really not sure what to think but this has been going on for sometime now it's gotten worse.

On windows 10. My mouse would randomly disconnect you hear the constant ping of it connecting and disconnecting. The light would stay on but it wouldn't move. I had to like shake it around or reconnect it to make it work again. It happened with two different mouses on any of the usb ports front and back. Bought a new power source and still have the issue.

I've just learned to deal with it but it's made playing game with my mouse a pain. This has been ongoing for months. Reformated recently and still does it but now it's started doing it to my kb as well. Only twice but when it happens I can't get the mouse or kb to work at all. No matter how many times I reconnect it.

This happens on the front usb as well. Seems like it's not giving them enough power but my Power source is new and I completely reformatted so if i had any bad settings those would be gone right? I've googled it and people say to change the power settings on usb hubs to not automatically turn off when your pc needs power and that hasn't worked either. Is my Mobo just dying?

What brand mouse/keyboard? Had the same problems recently with my Corsair mouse and keyboard and ended up being the terrible CUE software.
 

Bloodember

Member
Looks good. I don't know anything about that CPU cooler though.

We're only weeks away from the new Intel CPUs. I'd advise anyone looking to build right now to just wait a month. The new CPUs look really promising.

The only Intel CPU's that are coming out are the X series, which the cheapest is $242 and gimped to all get out. Plus the X299 motherboards are very expensive as they have to be able to use all the x series cpus and turn off features that some don't have. Unless someone wants an X series there is no reason for waiting. We also have Threadripper from AMD coming out this month as well.
 

Kaelan

Member
Looks good. I don't know anything about that CPU cooler though.

We're only weeks away from the new Intel CPUs. I'd advise anyone looking to build right now to just wait a month. The new CPUs look really promising.

Thanks! Not going to build it for a little bit (need to save money first) so i'll probably end up getting the new intel CPU eventually
 
What brand mouse/keyboard? Had the same problems recently with my Corsair mouse and keyboard and ended up being the terrible CUE software.

dell kb and cmstorm spawn. This is not the first mouse or kb it's done this with though.

I don't know about this stuff but can anyone find anything funky with my voltage?

fqINnv7.png
 
I'm wondering if the power delivery to USB may be borked, maybe can test with a self-powered hub.

Yeah I guess I can look into that. This rig is aging and I'm sure a new motherboard will probably fix it but I don't have the disposable income or the desire to put the pc together again. This has been so annoying for so long that I only play games on a controller now which never has that issue.
 

Zeusy

Member
Alright Gaf the time has come! I'm finally able to build my own PC I'm excited to enter the master race but I need help! I'm a n00b and need guidance. Help me PLZ :)


Your Current Specs: none, I have an outdated laptop
Budget: $900-$1,300, USA
Main Use: 4
Monitor Resolution: would prefer 4k but 1440p would be okay.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: I need LoL for sure uncapped fps. Uhh I want all my games to look silky smooth.
Looking to reuse any parts?: Don't have any to reuse. :/
When will you build?: Do you have a deadline? How long can you wait? Can build whenever I have the money now, no deadline, but I can't wait too!
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe?
 

This is a pretty old article, which focuses on i7 vs r7. Ryzen performance haa increased since then.

If you look at the i5 benches youll see the r5 1600 series to be pretty much on par, plus you get 8 more threads so future multithreaded games will perform much better.

Take a look at any r5 1600 review and youll see the r5 being recommend​ over the i5.
 

Bloodember

Member
Alright Gaf the time has come! I'm finally able to build my own PC I'm excited to enter the master race but I need help! I'm a n00b and need guidance. Help me PLZ :)


Your Current Specs: none, I have an outdated laptop
Budget: $900-$1,300, USA
Main Use: 4
Monitor Resolution: would prefer 4k but 1440p would be okay.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: I need LoL for sure uncapped fps. Uhh I want all my games to look silky smooth.
Looking to reuse any parts?: Don't have any to reuse. :/
When will you build?: Do you have a deadline? How long can you wait? Can build whenever I have the money now, no deadline, but I can't wait too!
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe?

Here you go. You can get Windows from play-asia.com for $20, then get the iso image from Microsoft.com. It's a little above your budget, but I didn't want to sacrifice your video card. You can save some money by getting a cheaper case, as that's just in there as a stand in as cases are a personal preference. If you want 4k you'll need more money.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1400 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($158.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock - AB350M Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($75.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws 4 Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($111.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Intel - 600p Series 256GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($108.98 @ Directron)
Storage: Toshiba - P300 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($62.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1070 8GB GAMING Video Card ($385.89 @ OutletPC)
Case: NZXT - Source 210 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($48.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic - G 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.39 @ SuperBiiz)
Monitor: Asus - VX24AH 24.0" 2560x1440 60Hz Monitor ($265.02 @ Amazon)
Keyboard: Logitech - K120 Wired Standard Keyboard ($9.89 @ OutletPC)
Mouse: Logitech - B120 Wired Optical Mouse ($10.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $1308.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-04 01:53 EDT-0400
 

ISee

Member
Alright Gaf the time has come! I'm finally able to build my own PC I'm excited to enter the master race but I need help! I'm a n00b and need guidance. Help me PLZ :)


Your Current Specs: none, I have an outdated laptop
Budget: $900-$1,300, USA
Main Use: 4
Monitor Resolution: would prefer 4k but 1440p would be okay.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: I need LoL for sure uncapped fps. Uhh I want all my games to look silky smooth.
Looking to reuse any parts?: Don't have any to reuse. :/
When will you build?: Do you have a deadline? How long can you wait? Can build whenever I have the money now, no deadline, but I can't wait too!
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe?

This build can do 1440p/60 at reasonable ultra settings or 4k/60 at medium/high settings. Get a 500GB SSD down the road for convenience. Overlcoking is possible and you should be able to reach 3.8-3.9 GHz on the CPU and 1.95-2.03 GHz on the GPU. The CPU cooler may require a separately available (free) mounting adapter though.
Personally I'd go for 1440p with this build and call it a day till 4K-HDR10 displays become cheaper and more powerful/cheaper GPUs arrive, but if you really want to for 4k consider upping your budget and getting a 1080Ti or wait for vega benchmarks before deciding on a GPU (amd rx vega performance will be somewhere between a 1070 and or even above a 1080Ti, no idea where exactly).

PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/6vtsFd


CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor ($209.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG - H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus - PRIME B350-PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard ($96.47 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($129.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Kingston - SSDNow V300 Series 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($90.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($48.44 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB G1 Gaming Video Card ($498.68 @ Amazon)
Case: NZXT - S340 (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ B&H)
Power Supply: EVGA - B3 550W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($64.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1244.22
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
 

LordAlu

Member
Looks good.

just a few questions, is the RX 560 better than the RX 460?
Can I somehow drop the total a little bit (Such as getting this RAM instead)? and If i opted for a smaller, cheaper SSD what should I look for in an SSD?

And most importantly can I get a case with a window for a similar price?

Thanks for the help!
It's pretty much the same card with a higher clock speed, so the RX 560 is a bit better than the RX 460.
You can use that RAM yes. Whilst I was looking for dual channel memory (i.e. 2 sticks), it shouldn't be a real performance drop just to get wrong. Seems odd that two 4GB sticks are so much more expensive than a single 8GB over there.
For an SSD, a decent brand such as Crucial, Samsung, Intel, Adata. Avoid Kingston or some random name.
You probably could find one? The H15 is a decent quality case that was actually on offer (it's usually nearer $60) and they do do a windowed version of it. I'm really not a fan of DIYPC or Rosewill cases but you might find one in their product range for a cheaper price.
 

Bloodember

Member
It's pretty much the same card with a higher clock speed, so the RX 560 is a bit better than the RX 460.
You can use that RAM yes. Whilst I was looking for dual channel memory (i.e. 2 sticks), it shouldn't be a real performance drop just to get wrong. Seems odd that two 4GB sticks are so much more expensive than a single 8GB over there.
For an SSD, a decent brand such as Crucial, Samsung, Intel, Adata. Avoid Kingston or some random name.
You probably could find one? The H15 is a decent quality case that was actually on offer (it's usually nearer $60) and they do do a windowed version of it. I'm really not a fan of DIYPC or Rosewill cases but you might find one in their product range for a cheaper price.

Why avoid Kingston?

Edit: Ok, answered my own question. They are much slower SSD's and you can get better ones for the same or a little bit more. Apparently this was a few years ago and has been fixed.
 

Renekton

Member
Why avoid Kingston?

Kingston and PNY had a fiasco a few years ago where their respective SSDs were quietly changed to inferior NAND without changing the model number. So people who read the original good reviews got bait and switched into buying the later inferior version.

They already cleaned up their act I think.
 

LordAlu

Member
Why avoid Kingston?

Edit: Ok, answered my own question. They are much slower SSD's and you can get better ones for the same or a little bit more. Apparently this was a few years ago and has been fixed.

Kingston and PNY had a fiasco a few years ago where their respective SSDs were quietly changed to inferior NAND without changing the model number. So people who read the original good reviews got bait and switched into buying the later inferior version.

They already cleaned up their act I think.
Kingston also now only do "business" SSDs in cheap end of the scale, like the A400 or UV400. They split off their "performance" to HyperX, but the cheapest small one they do is the FURY, and at that price range the SanDisk Plus or Adata SU800 are better performing.
 
No pics yet but the Fractal Design Define C is a really great chassis (for simpler builds, anyway). I'm super impressed. Makes for a really nice little work computer. Might be a pain with a non-modular PSU but worked great for me.

Build is roughly...
Ryzen 1700
16GB 3000
Asus B350 board
960 Evo 250GB
GTX 760 (inherited)
LG 4k 27" IPS (new and I love it)
EVGA 650W G2 (overkill but I love EVGA PSUs)

Thinking about getting a Logitech G910. I have one on my gaming rig and it's my favourite keyboard ever so far. I'm pretty sure it wouldn't be too loud in an office environment so I think I might buy another.

And my trusty Denon D2000 headphones and Headroom amp/dac for tunes, a favourite combo.
 

dr_mario

Member
Is thre something like PCPartsPicker that lets you see the Watt needed?

Also, is there some way to choose the Ryzen's (5 1600)Boxed Cooler as a cooler?
 

LordAlu

Member
Is thre something like PCPartsPicker that lets you see the Watt needed?

Also, is there some way to choose the Ryzen's (5 1600)Boxed Cooler as a cooler?
PCPartPicker shows you an estimated wattage at the top:

87CfxX.jpg


You can't choose the cooler to show separately in the list, but you can add it manually by going to the bottom of the list and choosing "Custom Part":

dNt97l.jpg


It will then show up in the list:

G65e0h.jpg
 
Im totally clueless mate just looking for an upgrade to get more fps out of BDO and PUBG

The cheapest you could get, while maintaining a similar size, would be this:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01M8M5T4T/

If you're prepared to spend that £140~ either way, might as well go for this:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01MQ5T4PN/

And in the middle, I'd suggest something like:
http://www.ebuyer.com/761120-zotac-...5-dvi-d-hdmi-displayport-pci-e-zt-p10510b-10l

All of these will be more price efficient than picking up that card from Curry's. If the longer cards take your fancy, check the internal dimensions of your PC case to make sure they'll fit.

Actually, in general, what are the specs for your current build?

Edit: Ah wait, you're the fellow who made a thread a while back. Well, the recommendation of a used 970 is still there if you want the absolute most power in your budget range
 

RS4-

Member
Looks good. I don't know anything about that CPU cooler though.

We're only weeks away from the new Intel CPUs. I'd advise anyone looking to build right now to just wait a month. The new CPUs look really promising.

The Cryorig H7 is fantastic, probably one of the best budget coolers. And not as annoying to install as the Hyper Evo 212 or whatever the fuck.

I'm still using an NHD14. Thinking about switching, but I gotta find a new case first. Using Enthoo Luxe, might go for the Evolv TG or wait for the ones that were announced at computex.
 
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