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"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!

Freeman76

Member
The cheapest you could get, while maintaining a similar size, would be this:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01M8M5T4T/

If you're prepared to spend that £140~ either way, might as well go for this:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01MQ5T4PN/

And in the middle, I'd suggest something like:
http://www.ebuyer.com/761120-zotac-...5-dvi-d-hdmi-displayport-pci-e-zt-p10510b-10l

All of these will be more price efficient than picking up that card from Curry's. If the longer cards take your fancy, check the internal dimensions of your PC case to make sure they'll fit.

Actually, in general, what are the specs for your current build?

Edit: Ah wait, you're the fellow who made a thread a while back. Well, the recommendation of a used 970 is still there if you want the absolute most power in your budget range

Thanks mate. I want to buy a new one, but just realised I may get a few quid for my 660 so if I add that to my budget I could get this?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01IOWT538/

WOuld that be a good move?
 
Hey, so I have an X58 Xeon 6c/12t X5675 at 4.5 ghz. I'm playing the newly released Rising Storm 2 Vietnam game which runs on Unreal engine 3. I'm getting solid performance with my 970 on ultra settings on 1080p aside from occasional minor stuttering which most people seem to be experiencing. But I am getting low GPU utilization like 40-50 percent. Most newer games, actually all games I have played I always see like 99% usage. Someone on Reddit said this means I have a CPU bottleneck but than another person said it's just because it's not a very graphically intensive game, runs on a single thread and my GPU simply does not need to work harder as it's already doing as much as it can. Which is true?
 

Freeman76

Member
If you can afford it, absolutely. The 1060 is a much better card than even the 1050 Ti for 1080p gaming at ultra settings, and it will blow your 660 completely out of the water.

OK I think with the sale of my 660 I can do it, do I need to make sure my MOBO will be compatible and if so how?
 
OK I think with the sale of my 660 I can do it, do I need to make sure my MOBO will be compatible and if so how?

Well, what's your motherboard?

For the most part, it shouldn't be an issue. While powering a GTX 660 suggests you should have the 6-pin connector necessary for powering it. The more particular point would be what precise CPU you're pairing with it.
 

Freeman76

Member
Well, what's your motherboard?

For the most part, it shouldn't be an issue. While powering a GTX 660 suggests you should have the 6-pin connector necessary for powering it. The more particular point would be what precise CPU you're pairing with it.


Operating System
Windows 10 Home 64-bit
CPU
Intel Core i5 4570 @ 3.20GHz 77 °C
Haswell 22nm Technology
RAM
8.00GB Single-Channel DDR3 @ 798MHz (11-11-11-28)
Motherboard
ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC. B85M-G (SOCKET 1150) 28 °C
Graphics
HP 23xi (1920x1080@60Hz)
2047MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 660 (Palit Microsystems) 55 °C
Storage
465GB Seagate ST500DM002-1BD142 (SATA) 42 °C
Optical Drives
ATAPI iHAS124 E
Audio
Realtek High Definition Audio
 

sikkinixx

Member
So I'm putting together my pc and I plug in the big ass ATX power connector. But my motherboard has anothe 8 pin 12V plug on it. I don't have any corresponding bits on my power supply. The manual isn't a ton of help. Does it need both? Or just the ATX one?
 

kennah

Member
So I'm putting together my pc and I plug in the big ass ATX power connector. But my motherboard has anothe 8 pin 12V plug on it. I don't have any corresponding bits on my power supply. The manual isn't a ton of help. Does it need both? Or just the ATX one?

What's your powersupply? It should have that.
 
Operating System
Windows 10 Home 64-bit
CPU
Intel Core i5 4570 @ 3.20GHz 77 °C
Haswell 22nm Technology
RAM
8.00GB Single-Channel DDR3 @ 798MHz (11-11-11-28)
Motherboard
ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC. B85M-G (SOCKET 1150) 28 °C
Graphics
HP 23xi (1920x1080@60Hz)
2047MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 660 (Palit Microsystems) 55 °C
Storage
465GB Seagate ST500DM002-1BD142 (SATA) 42 °C
Optical Drives
ATAPI iHAS124 E
Audio
Realtek High Definition Audio

Your motherboard is fine, and your CPU will happily perform with the 1060 at 60 fps, but uh, it seems kinda hot.
 
Is it? Oh shit what can I do about that? Sorry for the questions as you can tell I am a noob with PC stuff

If that's the thing running idle and not with a game going on or the like, then yes, it's kinda hot. Most CPUs run at 30-40 degrees idle, or barely above that if doing light computing tasks, not in the high 70s. That's for major work or an intensive game.

Given the apparent age of the hardware, I'm gonna ask - do you often clean the case of dust? Did you mount the CPU yourself, and/or what fan(s) is it using?

Since you're planning to upgrade soon anyway which will mean popping the hardware open, it will probably be a good chance to take a look inside and:
A) Make sure everything is clean so that nothing is choking up your cooling
B) Remount the CPU, giving it a new layer of thermal paste.
 

jeffram

Member
GAF, I've never built a PC before, besides playing kerbal on my mac, I haven't PC gamed since before the PS1.

I am thinking at some point this summer to build a high end PC, to hook up to my tv and do mostly controller based gaming , VR, and m/kb strategy/simulation games. I know I'd get demolished in competitive shooters, this would be mostly for upcoming single player games.

I want to make sure I don't build my PC before transformative tech comes out. I understand that 7nm is at least a year away, but I've been hearing about HBM for a while. Is there any upcoming tech that's worth waiting for?

I'm on the fence about waiting for gen 2 VR headsets to build around.

Edit: when I say high end, I mean highest end. Willing to throw down a few k.
 

LilJoka

Member
GAF, I've never built a PC before, besides playing kerbal on my mac, I haven't PC gamed since before the PS1.

I am thinking at some point this summer to build a high end PC, to hook up to my tv and do mostly controller based gaming , VR, and m/kb strategy/simulation games. I know I'd get demolished in competitive shooters, this would be mostly for upcoming single player games.

I want to make sure I don't build my PC before transformative tech comes out. I understand that 7nm is at least a year away, but I've been hearing about HBM for a while. Is there any upcoming tech that's worth waiting for?

I'm on the fence about waiting for gen 2 VR headsets to build around.

You won't get demolished if you do use m&k on those competitive shooters. I struggle with BF1, probably more because I'm a bad player. But I play overwatch all the time on the tv and it's perfect. Can even play with a pad if I'm symmetra or mercy.

What kind of budget are you looking at?
 

Freeman76

Member
If that's the thing running idle and not with a game going on or the like, then yes, it's kinda hot. Most CPUs run at 30-40 degrees idle, or barely above that if doing light computing tasks, not in the high 70s. That's for major work or an intensive game.

Given the apparent age of the hardware, I'm gonna ask - do you often clean the case of dust? Did you mount the CPU yourself, and/or what fan(s) is it using?

Since you're planning to upgrade soon anyway which will mean popping the hardware open, it will probably be a good chance to take a look inside and:
A) Make sure everything is clean so that nothing is choking up your cooling
B) Remount the CPU, giving it a new layer of thermal paste.

That was running BDO when it is at that temp, not idle. I do need to open it and give it a clean though
 

garath

Member
Been awhile since I purchased a hard drive. I currently have a 480 SSD and a 1TB mechanical. The mechanical has been churning quite a bit lately not to mention I have mostly filled it up with games. I can purge some but I'm thinking this is a good opportunity to pre-emptively replace it.

The WD blue 1tb looks good for a 1tb but is there a good gaming quality 2tb mechanical? Or is it still better to stick to 1tb for performance. Obviously a SSD is superior but I don't feel like spending $300 right now. I'll look for a deal on Black Friday to go all SSD.
 
Does anybody have any experience with up-scaling on a GTX 1080? I just watched Digital Foundry's video on PC up-scaling and I thought they made a pretty good argument for selecting a 1080 over a 1080 TI. I could save ~$300 CAD by going with a 1080 over the 1080 Ti, which would be great!
 

kuYuri

Member
Been awhile since I purchased a hard drive. I currently have a 480 SSD and a 1TB mechanical. The mechanical has been churning quite a bit lately not to mention I have mostly filled it up with games. I can purge some but I'm thinking this is a good opportunity to pre-emptively replace it.

The WD blue 1tb looks good for a 1tb but is there a good gaming quality 2tb mechanical? Or is it still better to stick to 1tb for performance. Obviously a SSD is superior but I don't feel like spending $300 right now. I'll look for a deal on Black Friday to go all SSD.

Toshiba P300 are good all around hard drives and not that expensive.
 

jeffram

Member
You won't get demolished if you do use m&k on those competitive shooters. I struggle with BF1, probably more because I'm a bad player. But I play overwatch all the time on the tv and it's perfect. Can even play with a pad if I'm symmetra or mercy.

What kind of budget are you looking at?
I want to build the highest end single GPU build I can, without buying unnecessary equipment. I know how much a titan is, and how much a i7 is, and want to build around that. When I say "unnecessary" I mean splurging for something like 2tb of SSD, when by the time I could fill 2TB I'd either be looking at a new build or much cheaper cost per gb.

my budget would be around $3k.
 

rtcn63

Member
I want to build the highest end single GPU build I can, without buying unnecessary equipment. I know how much a titan is, and how much a i7 is, and want to build around that. When I say "unnecessary" I mean splurging for something like 2tb of SSD, when by the time I could fill 2TB I'd either be looking at a new build or much cheaper cost per gb.

my budget would be around $3k.

You're looking at a ~5% difference between the Titan and the much cheaper 1080ti for gaming. It's smarter to go for the latter and put the difference (in money) toward a new Ti model in a few generations.

7700K + 1080ti ((Strix/Gaming X/SC2/etc.) + 2x8GB 3200mhz ram + Noctua D15/Kraken X62 (water cooling) is a good starting point.
 

NOKYARD

Member
Yeah I guess I can look into that. This rig is aging and I'm sure a new motherboard will probably fix it but I don't have the disposable income or the desire to put the pc together again. This has been so annoying for so long that I only play games on a controller now which never has that issue.

If you have exhausted all internal troubleshooting and have not solved your issue, try looking outside. Speaking from experience, Radio Interference is the most likely suspect. It could be caused by local devices, and even by your router, or USB 3.

I had a similar issue which i fixed by moving the USB KB/M dongle to under my monitor with a USB extension cord.
 

Jabronium

Member
The waiting game for benches on the new CPU's is killing me. It's still a few months out for my build yet but I keep waffling between an R7 1700, 7800X, or the CFL 6c/12t. AM4 is (supposed to be) forward compatible, right? The ability to drop a new Ryzen in after a year or two (hopefully with better OC'ing) keeps swinging me towards the AMD build but my mind is changing every few minute.
 

dr_mario

Member
PCPartPicker shows you an estimated wattage at the top:

87CfxX.jpg


You can't choose the cooler to show separately in the list, but you can add it manually by going to the bottom of the list and choosing "Custom Part":

dNt97l.jpg


It will then show up in the list:

G65e0h.jpg

Ah great, didn't see the wattage. Thanks! How accurate is the estimated wattage? (I'm too lazy to google: How much Watt does the Wraith need?)
 

kmfdmpig

Member
Dumb RAM question:

I had a computer built last Thursday. Almost right away I enabled XMP to boost the RAM from 2133 to its rated 3000.

Eventually, I got sick of the red LEDs on the MB that would shine when XMP was enabled, so I changed the bios settings to manually overclock (with very similar settings as the XMP provided). That went fine for about a day and then I started to get a ton of problems today (BSOD, chkdisk issues, Kmode errors, etc...), Chrome pages not loading correctly, etc... I couldn't run the system for 10 minutes without a problem. I figured that it was probably the RAM, so I changed it back to 2133 for now and it's been running well for the last hour or so with no issues.

If you were me would you try XMP again to get it back to 3000 or just leave it at 2133?
 

LordAlu

Member
Dumb RAM question:

I had a computer built last Thursday. Almost right away I enabled XMP to boost the RAM from 2133 to its rated 3000.

Eventually, I got sick of the red LEDs on the MB that would shine when XMP was enabled, so I changed the bios settings to manually overclock (with very similar settings as the XMP provided). That went fine for about a day and then I started to get a ton of problems today (BSOD, chkdisk issues, Kmode errors, etc...), Chrome pages not loading correctly, etc... I couldn't run the system for 10 minutes without a problem. I figured that it was probably the RAM, so I changed it back to 2133 for now and it's been running well for the last hour or so with no issues.

If you were me would you try XMP again to get it back to 3000 or just leave it at 2133?
If there isn't a way to turn off the LED in the BIOS, grab some black electrical tape and cover the LED on the board, then go back to XMP.
 

shanafan

Member
Sorry for such a broad question, but here goes.

I have a i7-3770 LGA 1155 chip, 16 GB of DDR3 ram. I also have a GTX 1070 with a GSYNC monitor. Everything runs well, really no complaints. I can play current games at a high framerate with high video quality settings.

But, I have that "What if?" question in the back of my mind. Would I see a big difference if I were to upgrade to a i7-7700? Holding me back is the cost because my motherboard is for a 1155 chip, I would need a new motherboard for a 1151 chip as well as DDR4 RAM. I only have a 500 watt power box, so I may need to upgrade that as well if I made this jump.
 

Ultryx

Member
Help me figure out what the best move would be for me at this point. I want to upgrade a part (or two) at reasonable prices. I've got a solid job over the summer until I start university in the fall again so I'll have some money to spend on upgrades.

CPU : i5 2500K OC'd @ 4Ghz
MB : Asus P8Z77-V LK
RAM : 8GB
GPU : NVIDIA GeForce GTX 770 (2GB)

I've been thinking about upgrading my GPU to a 1060/1070. I know the 1070 would be the better future proofing option, but it's also about $100 more than the 1060. I figure I could probably double my RAM to 16GB for fairly cheap, but I'm not sure if it would help that much. I do get very close to my RAM limit running several programs, listening to music, and using multiple tabs in Chrome. Would it be most beneficial for me to upgrade my GPU?

Edit: I play games at 1080p and prefer to maintain 60fps when I can.
 

jeffram

Member
You're looking at a ~5% difference between the Titan and the much cheaper 1080ti for gaming. It's smarter to go for the latter and put the difference (in money) toward a new Ti model in a few generations.

7700K + 1080ti ((Strix/Gaming X/SC2/etc.) + 2x8GB 3200mhz ram + Noctua D15/Kraken X62 (water cooling) is a good starting point.
Thanks!

Anything coming out in the next 6 months worth waiting for?
 
Thanks!

Anything coming out in the next 6 months worth waiting for?

Monster CPUs with 16 cores are inbound both AMD and Intel, like in a month.

But for GPUs at the moment we are not confident that the upcoming AMD GPUs (that are being revealed to detail in July) will beat the 1080 ti. Although if the new bitcoin craze lasts, they'll be hard to get either way.

I've been thinking about upgrading my GPU to a 1060/1070. I know the 1070 would be the better future proofing option, but it's also about $100 more than the 1060. I figure I could probably double my RAM to 16GB for fairly cheap, but I'm not sure if it would help that much. I do get very close to my RAM limit running several programs, listening to music, and using multiple tabs in Chrome. Would it be most beneficial for me to upgrade my GPU?
.

I say get to 16GB of ram and the 1060. Your computer is more than a gaming machine. Think about the percentage you use it for other tasks and that the money you spend on a faster GPU goes to gaming only.
 

Arex

Member
Hey all, if the price is the same, which blower style 1070 would you pick? Or which is the better one? I can't seem to find any reviews comparing the non FE to FE blower 1070s.
I was recommended the Asus 1070 Turbo, but I kinda like how the FE looks lol. This is for a SFF case btw :)
 
Hey all, if the price is the same, which blower style 1070 would you pick? Or which is the better one? I can't seem to find any reviews comparing the non FE to FE blower 1070s.
I was recommended the Asus 1070 Turbo, but I kinda like how the FE looks lol. This is for a SFF case btw :)

FE is the best, no question about it. I have two FE (one MSI, one PNY) and a Asus Turbo (which is the cheapest there is) by the way.

That said, FE are even more expensive than non-reference cards a lot of the time. I bought all of my 1070s used or from open boxes so I got them cheaper.
 

Weevilone

Member
FE is the best, no question about it. I have two FE (one MSI, one PNY) and a Asus Turbo (which is the cheapest there is) by the way.

That said, FE are even more expensive than non-reference cards a lot of the time. I bought all of my 1070s used or from open boxes so I got them cheaper.

Agreed, definitely get the FE if you are needing a blower.
 

Arex

Member
FE is the best, no question about it. I have two FE (one MSI, one PNY) and a Asus Turbo (which is the cheapest there is) by the way.

That said, FE are even more expensive than non-reference cards a lot of the time. I bought all of my 1070s used or from open boxes so I got them cheaper.

Agreed, definitely get the FE if you are needing a blower.

I see! Thanks guys, I'll see if I can get the FE 1070 :)
The only prob is the geforce logo will probably be upside down in my case (it's an inverted layout lol)
 

Zeusy

Member
Do you recommend AMD? A buddy of mine told me to avoid, like I said don't know much so I usually suck to Intel.

This build can do 1440p/60 at reasonable ultra settings or 4k/60 at medium/high settings. Get a 500GB SSD down the road for convenience. Overlcoking is possible and you should be able to reach 3.8-3.9 GHz on the CPU and 1.95-2.03 GHz on the GPU. The CPU cooler may require a separately available (free) mounting adapter though.
Personally I'd go for 1440p with this build and call it a day till 4K-HDR10 displays become cheaper and more powerful/cheaper GPUs arrive, but if you really want to for 4k consider upping your budget and getting a 1080Ti or wait for vega benchmarks before deciding on a GPU (amd rx vega performance will be somewhere between a 1070 and or even above a 1080Ti, no idea where exactly).

PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/6vtsFd


CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor ($209.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG - H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus - PRIME B350-PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard ($96.47 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($129.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Kingston - SSDNow V300 Series 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($90.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($48.44 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB G1 Gaming Video Card ($498.68 @ Amazon)
Case: NZXT - S340 (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ B&H)
Power Supply: EVGA - B3 550W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($64.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1244.22
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available

I'm kind of liking this build, but again do you recommend AMD? I was thinking maybe spend a bit more and get an I7 kaby lake
 
Thanks again for all the tips. Seen so many GFX cards I might explode if I see anymore.

I have seen this one which is underneath my budget....but not as good as the others:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01MG0ZJRO/

Thoughts?

It's the same price as what you'd have paid for the Curry's one, but likely to be a better build, and slightly higher performance too, due to higher memory frequency and clock speed. So if you're prepared to pay £144, it's certainly the much better of the two options.

Edit: Also the benefit of a full warranty.
 

big fake

Member
Hey guys, I have two questions here to ask all you pros:

1). I currently own a 6600k and 1060 setup and am doing fine, but was wondering if it would be worth it to sell my 1060 and replace it with a 1070. Is it worth it for 1080p gaming at the price increase? Would I see a huge change in performance?

2). I have a 2x4GB of DDR4 RAM at 2133 MHz, was wondering should I go for a 2x8GB RAM solution at 2400 or higher, or instead just get another 2x4GB at lower 2133. I'm wondering if the speed-to-price rate would be worth it in games? I'm also concerned not going over like 130ish before tax (Canadian).

Thanks in advance guys.
 

ISee

Member
I'm kind of liking this build, but again do you recommend AMD? I was thinking maybe spend a bit more and get an I7 kaby lake

Needed to go for the r5 1600 because of the budget, but in general it's not a bad CPU, and more than fast enough for 1440p, 4k @ 60 fps. The 7700k is of course the faster and more expansive choice though.
And that's the problem when choosing a CPU currently: AMDs Ryzen lineup could become the better, more future proof option because of the core/thread advantage while Intels kabylake series has the better per core performance, which won't become irrelevant in the future either. It's not easy to make the decision between intel and amd currently. Each side has value, just in different places. My recommendation: The r5 1600 is good enough currently and has the potential to become even better in the future. The 7700k is faster and has a lot of headroom left for the future, but a z270/7700k combo will cost you ~$200 more. As 4k/60 is your goal I'd rather invest the extra $200 to go for a 1080Ti over a 1080 (for example this one here).
That said; I went with the 7700k/z270/1080 combo (after several days thinking about which CPU to get), but 4k was never my goal (just 1440p till better/cheaper displays and gpus arrive).
 

laxu

Member
Hey guys, I have two questions here to ask all you pros:

1). I currently own a 6600k and 1060 setup and am doing fine, but was wondering if it would be worth it to sell my 1060 and replace it with a 1070. Is it worth it for 1080p gaming at the price increase? Would I see a huge change in performance?

2). I have a 2x4GB of DDR4 RAM at 2133 MHz, was wondering should I go for a 2x8GB RAM solution at 2400 or higher, or instead just get another 2x4GB at lower 2133. I'm wondering if the speed-to-price rate would be worth it in games? I'm also concerned not going over like 130ish before tax (Canadian).

Thanks in advance guys.

1. At this point I would probably wait for the next gen cards or buy a used 980 Ti instead. Your 1060 should run 1080p just fine at the moment so I'd only upgrade if you are chasing very high framerates or plan to upgrade to 1440p or higher.

2. 2x8 GB of faster RAM would be better but the difference might not be that relevant so instead consider which ones comes out cheapest and if you can sell your 2x4GB modules.
 

big fake

Member
1. At this point I would probably wait for the next gen cards or buy a used 980 Ti instead. Your 1060 should run 1080p just fine at the moment so I'd only upgrade if you are chasing very high framerates or plan to upgrade to 1440p or higher.

2. 2x8 GB of faster RAM would be better but the difference might not be that relevant so instead consider which ones comes out cheapest and if you can sell your 2x4GB modules.
Okay thanks, I didn't think of it that way. I appreciate it!
 
Hey guys, I have two questions here to ask all you pros:

1). I currently own a 6600k and 1060 setup and am doing fine, but was wondering if it would be worth it to sell my 1060 and replace it with a 1070. Is it worth it for 1080p gaming at the price increase? Would I see a huge change in performance?

2). I have a 2x4GB of DDR4 RAM at 2133 MHz, was wondering should I go for a 2x8GB RAM solution at 2400 or higher, or instead just get another 2x4GB at lower 2133. I'm wondering if the speed-to-price rate would be worth it in games? I'm also concerned not going over like 130ish before tax (Canadian).

Thanks in advance guys.

Bumping up your RAM capacity would be the thing I would suggest in the short term, though speed's not quite as necessary for intel as it is with ryzen. 2x8GB would be the most effective. That said, with RAM prices being what they are and Canadian dollars, buying another 2x4 set is probably the more affordable action. Cheapest I can find on short notice is this on Newegg, but as the fins are kinda tall, this might be more suitable in a tight installation, if you can spare an extra ten dollars.

As to the 1070, it'll wipe the floor with pretty much everything at 1080p, and typically as been cited as more of a 1440p card. That said, that does mean you can get either an absolutely locked 1080p60, or you can dabble in higher framerates - ie, 100+.
 

jahasaja

Member
Hi PC gaf,

I need a new PC since compiling in Gamemaker takes forever on my current one. I will have to buy everything new since I am on a laptop now that I cannot upgrade any further.

Apart from compiling I also need to be able to capture gameplay video in at least 1080/60 fps in order to make trailers.

Any tips on what I should look for?

Thanks in advance.

And I want to play Vanquish
 
Wondering if anyone here has had a problem like I'm having with a new build. I just installed:

ASUS z270g
i7 7700k16
16 G g.skill 3200


I tried to use HD from my old build to install windows 10 via a win 10 usb boot drive but when the os install process started it said none of the partitions on the drive were valid and I couldn't create a new partition. A quick Google search made it look like I would have to load into a traditional bios instead of uefi and re-format using cmd line. Instead of doing that I decided to get a new HD to do a fresh install. After installing the new HD the computer will not load to the bios screen or windows installation screen at all. The strange thing is that I believe the computer is getting through post I just can't see anything on my screen at all. I've tried multiple monitors and connection types (hdmi, dvi, display port) and I just can't get anything to show up at all. If anyone has any thoughts on this I would appreciate any help you could offer. Thanks in advance.
 
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