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"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!

EatChildren

Currently polling second in Australia's federal election (first in the Gold Coast), this feral may one day be your Bogan King.
Option 2 has only one stick of DDR memory. That's a no go and will negatively influence their performance while working and gaming. They could of course just buy another 8 GB stick, but making ram work that wasn't sold in a kit can be tricky sometimes. Even if it is the same brand/model.

Option 1 is a fine entry level build for 1080p/30-60 fps at medium settings, but it seems to be a bit overpriced at first glance and the 570 from option 3 is good enough for 1080p/60 at reasonable high settings.

Option 4 is my personal favorite, not because of the strong GPU but because you mentioned professional video/photo editing, but it is expansive and they don't need the 580.

Their optimal build would be a r5 1600, a 1060-3G/RX 470/RX 570, b250 MB, a SSD and 16GB of Ram (2x8).

I'm pretty sure they're going option 4, and may buy another couple of sticks of RAM later down the track. Thanks man :)
 

hEist

Member
So, I've decided after quite a lot of years to jump back on pc and tried to build it myself.
I'm missing only a Graphics Card and kinda don't know what to get (got an old Samsung Monitor and don't want to buy a new one, so I'm stuck with 1080p and fine with it)

So far:
Processor: i5-7600k @3.8 GHz with BeQuit! Pure Rock
Motherboard: Asus Prime z270-a
Memory: 2xBallistix Sport LT 8 GB DDR4 @2400 MHz

Don't want, to be honest, spent to much money on a graphics card. Any recommandations?
 

ISee

Member

R7 1700 + GTX 1070 should give you plenty of performance for 1080p. Your current cooler is also strong enough, just order AM4 brackets from cooler master and pocket the AIO money. One thing you could do is to get even faster DDR4 modules though. They'll boost your performance even further, especially in CPU heavy games.

yeah, had also a 1060 in mind. I could also get a ASUS Dual GeForce GTX 1060 6GB OC GDDR5 for 247€.
Any significant differences between the two?

More or less the same. The Gigabyte has a slightly higher boost clock of 1797 MHz vs 1708 MHz on the Asus. Nothing mind blowing and you can push both cards to at least 1900 MHz (probably even close to 2000 MHz) without problems or negative side effects anyway. For the rest of your build, as you're investing in the z270 platform, make the best of your investment and also get faster DDR4 memory (3000+ MHz). It's a nice boost in performance in CPU heavy games.
 

Arex

Member
So after the feedback some pages back, I'll probably be getting the 1070FE, not the non-reference blower ones. The gpu will be put in this case btw.
JBUZVhA.jpg
http://robspctech.com/2016/06/11/primo-p115-review/

The FE blower type card should be the best in this case right?

Also is there any difference in FE cards from Asus, MSI, Gigabyte etc?

Anyway, still waiting for the Asrock AM4 itx xD
 

HowZatOZ

Banned
R7 1700 + GTX 1070 should give you plenty of performance for 1080p. Your current cooler is also strong enough, just order AM4 brackets from cooler master and pocket the AIO money. One thing you could do is to get even faster DDR4 modules though. They'll boost your performance even further, especially in CPU heavy games.
Thanks for the advice mate, much appreciated! I'll definitely grab brackets anyway just in case the Wraith underperforms, and with the ram I was looking at 3000mhz 16gb modules so that would be a significant boost over my current setup.
 
Can anyone give me some recommendations with regards to storage. I'm lost.


Needs:

1) great SSD for OS and key apps
2) Great SSD for apps (adobe suite, office, misc) and games I play a lot
3) Mass Storage for video editing, projects. Also for thousands of stock images for photo editing, thousands of audio files. Needs to be fast and reliable.
4) Storage for Backing up everything
5) Digital Library of HD and 4K videos I've collected through the years



The thing is, I don't know what to do. There are so many options. Should I remake my old computer into a NAS? should I buy a Western Digital MyCloud 16TB and attach it to my router (I have 100 mbit internet, so I got a fast connection).

Should I buy External USB 3.1 Harddrives and keep them on my desk next to my computer?

Should I buy a couple of Internal 3'5 7200 RPM harddrives and raid 0 them into a big mass storage drive into the computer?

I hear people talk about plex, but I don't know how it works. Others have suggested I get a cloud subscription. Someone mentioned earlier that you can get like 50 GB with Google if you sign up for something?

What do you guys recommend? My new motherboard is a Maximus IX- it has two, m.2 slots, and 6 SATA ports. It says that if you use the m.2 slots, you shouldn't use SATA port 5 and 6 as they share PCI lanes.


It's confusing as fuck, and I am surprised at how expensive harddrives still are. A western Digital Black Performance 8 TB internal drive is quite expensive, but I like how fast they seem!
 

ISee

Member
Can anyone give me some recommendations with regards to storage. I'm lost.


Needs:

1) great SSD for OS and key apps
2) Great SSD for apps (adobe suite, office, misc) and games I play a lot
3) Mass Storage for video editing, projects. Also for thousands of stock images for photo editing, thousands of audio files. Needs to be fast and reliable.
4) Storage for Backing up everything
5) Digital Library of HD and 4K videos I've collected through the years



The thing is, I don't know what to do. There are so many options. Should I remake my old computer into a NAS? should I buy a Western Digital MyCloud 16TB and attach it to my router (I have 100 mbit internet, so I got a fast connection).

Should I buy External USB 3.1 Harddrives and keep them on my desk next to my computer?

Should I buy a couple of Internal 3'5 7200 RPM harddrives and raid 0 them into a big mass storage drive into the computer?

I hear people talk about plex, but I don't know how it works. Others have suggested I get a cloud subscription. Someone mentioned earlier that you can get like 50 GB with Google if you sign up for something?

What do you guys recommend? My new motherboard is a Maximus IX- it has two, m.2 slots, and 6 SATA ports. It says that if you use the m.2 slots, you shouldn't use SATA port 5 and 6 as they share PCI lanes.


It's confusing as fuck, and I am surprised at how expensive harddrives still are. A western Digital Black Performance 8 TB internal drive is quite expensive, but I like how fast they seem!

1.) Samsung 960 EVO 256 GB - 500 GB
2.) Samsung 850 EVO 500GB-1TB
3-5) 2x Western digital black 4TB+ HHDs (or 2x Samsung PRO SSDs, faster but more expansive) in Raid 1 for safety or Raid 0 for storage
4-5) USB 3.1 / 3.0 4TB+ HDD + key files in cloud storage (it's good to have more than one backup).
 

laxu

Member
Can anyone give me some recommendations with regards to storage. I'm lost.


Needs:

1) great SSD for OS and key apps
2) Great SSD for apps (adobe suite, office, misc) and games I play a lot
3) Mass Storage for video editing, projects. Also for thousands of stock images for photo editing, thousands of audio files. Needs to be fast and reliable.
4) Storage for Backing up everything
5) Digital Library of HD and 4K videos I've collected through the years



The thing is, I don't know what to do. There are so many options. Should I remake my old computer into a NAS? should I buy a Western Digital MyCloud 16TB and attach it to my router (I have 100 mbit internet, so I got a fast connection).

Should I buy External USB 3.1 Harddrives and keep them on my desk next to my computer?

Should I buy a couple of Internal 3'5 7200 RPM harddrives and raid 0 them into a big mass storage drive into the computer?

I hear people talk about plex, but I don't know how it works. Others have suggested I get a cloud subscription. Someone mentioned earlier that you can get like 50 GB with Google if you sign up for something?

What do you guys recommend? My new motherboard is a Maximus IX- it has two, m.2 slots, and 6 SATA ports. It says that if you use the m.2 slots, you shouldn't use SATA port 5 and 6 as they share PCI lanes.


It's confusing as fuck, and I am surprised at how expensive harddrives still are. A western Digital Black Performance 8 TB internal drive is quite expensive, but I like how fast they seem!

First off consider how much stuff you need to have installed. I currently run with two 1TB Samsung EVO 850 SSDs and no mechanical storage. First drive partitioned into a 128 GB drive for Windows + apps, second partition for all random crap I have and second drive is dedicated to games. This has so far served me really well but I am a bit short on space on the games drive now but I have too many installed anyway.

I absolutely loathe mechanical hard drives because of the noise but understand they are the option to go for backup and cheap storage. So if you can, invest in a few 1TB SSDs and then buy some large mechanical ones for storage and backup needs. Samsung's SSDs hit the perfect price vs performance point for me but to be honest I don't notice much difference between the current drives and the Intel and OCZ drives I bought several years ago when 128 and 160 GB drives were the reasonably priced ones. Basically almost any SSD is a great improvement over mechanical drives.
 

ZerotypeX

Member
I recently bought a Asus Strix 1060 OC to replace my RX480 and now sort of having buyer's remorse as in should I have splurged a little more and got the 1070 instead.

There is a $129 difference between the 2 cards
$311.74 for 1060 vs $440.74 1070 and rebates make it a little cheaper ($20 MIR with code for Rocket League for 1060 and $30 MIR for 1070)

Would you guys spend a little more for just 1080p gaming on an ultrawide?
 

rob_lh

Neo Member
I recently bought a Asus Strix 1060 OC to replace my RX480 and now sort of having buyer's remorse as in should I have splurged a little more and got the 1070 instead.

There is a $129 difference between the 2 cards
$311.74 for 1060 vs $440.74 1070 and rebates make it a little cheaper ($20 MIR with code for Rocket League for 1060 and $30 MIR for 1070)

Would you guys spend a little more for just 1080p gaming on an ultrawide?

For an Ultrawide, I'd consider getting the 1070. The 1060 and 480 are great for 16:9 1080p gaming, but Ultrawide adds 20-30% more space to draw so if it's just clearing 60 fps in 16:9, it's going to be lower in 21:9. The 1070 will be a big step forward. If you could return/sell and recover the cost of the 1060 to invest in the 1070, I'd do it.
 

JWiLL

Banned
So I installed a new CPU cooler this weekend and was pretty shocked by the improvement.

When I built my PC in Dec, the Cryorig H7 wasn't available in Canada. I went with a 212 instead...but got the LED instead of the EVO. I was making a red/black build so it made sense, I was unaware the heatpipe set up was different (worse).

With the H7 my 6700k @ 4.5 is only at 67-68 degrees under full load (Playing OW @ 160 FPS while streaming at 60). With the 212 I was hitting low 80s.

Pretty damn satisfied. That being said - cleaning thermal paste off your processor and installing a cooler in an already built computer was nerve wracking.
 

j-wood

Member
I'm looking for some new 1080p (or 1440p, i have a 1070) monitors. I currently have 2 Asus VX228H and the color on them is so off :(

Are the monitors in the OP still the best?
 
I'm looking for some new 1080p (or 1440p, i have a 1070) monitors. I currently have 2 Asus VX228H and the color on them is so off :(

Are the monitors in the OP still the best?

Do you need 2? Can you just go with one big one? What's the use case?

I have a 6700k and 1070 and a 1440p 144hz ips gsync monitor and absolutely love it. Would definitely buy it again.

If you're not gaming though I would probably grab a 32" 4k IPS monitor... for general productivity stuff.
 

j-wood

Member
Do you need 2? Can you just go with one big one? What's the use case?

I have a 6700k and 1070 and a 1440p 144hz ips gsync monitor and absolutely love it. Would definitely buy it again.

If you're not gaming though I would probably grab a 32" 4k IPS monitor... for general productivity stuff.

Definitely gaming, but I also do some work stuff on my desktop and for that dual monitors is very useful. I could go for one big monitor, but I would definitely miss being able to have something up on the 2nd. I also don't think I can go all out and afford a gsync monitor at the moment.
 

JWiLL

Banned
Definitely gaming, but I also do some work stuff on my desktop and for that dual monitors is very useful. I could go for one big monitor, but I would definitely miss being able to have something up on the 2nd. I also don't think I can go all out and afford a gsync monitor at the moment.

I'd just go with a couple Asus VGQ248QE. 144hz and good color after some easy adjustments.

Probably the best value 144hz monitor out there. It's "real world input lag" is also 3ms which is incredibly low, and why it's a favorite for pro gamers. The slightly cheaper 144hz Acer is 10ms for example, though I realize that's only really important for competitive FPS gamers.
 

Freeman76

Member
Open up your case, take a look at the PSU. If it's in any way modular, it'll look something like:
modular-power-supply.jpg


Now, the reason you have to check the PSU yourself before buying anything - different semi-modular PSUs can come with different connectors. Some will have those on the left of the picture, others those on the right. So if you have a semi-modular PSU and go the route of buying, you need to know what you're hooking it up into.

If on the other hand it is not at al modular, and all the cables come out of the same, circular hole, then you have to count up the various pin connectors it already has. Perhaps you'll be lucky and it has an extra 8-pin, or was 6+2 pins anyway. If not true, then you buy a converter, simple as thwt.

Hi mate, me again. I have various photos, but will start with this one:

[url]http://imgur.com/a/4OdbC[/URL]

I wonder if the pins already in the 660 are the 6 and the ones I am holding are the +2?
 

Freeman76

Member
They would indeed! So you should be fine to power your 970 when it arrives.

Thanks mate :)

Any tips regarding the switch over?

Also one more question, I have 8GB DDR3 in there, I could stretch another £30 to buy another stick, does it have to be matching?
 
Looking to upgrade my work computer's graphics card to be more on the level of 4k video editing, but I was worried about bottlenecking issues that might occur if I get the wrong card.

Current:

CPU- i7 3770k
GPU - GeForce GTX 660 Ti


I was looking to recommend the GTX 1070 to my work place, but if there is a better deal/performance that I can get, please let me know.
 
Thanks mate :)

Any tips regarding the switch over?

Also one more question, I have 8GB DDR3 in there, I could stretch another £30 to buy another stick, does it have to be matching?

Ideally yes, at the very least on frequency. Which based on what you previously posted, admittedly may be kinda tricky. Most DDR3 memory still on the market is at around 1600 Mhz, not 800.
 

Freeman76

Member
Ideally yes, at the very least on frequency. Which based on what you previously posted, admittedly may be kinda tricky. Most DDR3 memory still on the market is at around 1600 Mhz, not 800.


Lol there always seems to be a bump in the road :)

Thanks mate you have been really helpful.
 
Questions:

1) I'm in love with this new Logitech MX Master Version 2 - It now comes in a all black and all white versions; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ihdovdFGLfw < 70 days battery, increased DPI. I need this! I've been told by video editors that you can use the horizontal scroll wheel to scrub while editing... THAT SOUNDS AMAZING:D Amazon says 1-2 months shipping thou.. fcuk:( Anyone got the MX master?
I had the G500 I think it was. I got it about 10 years ago in 2007. It had this orange weight accessory which was total gamer hackerz 1337 cool at the time. It only recently broke a few months ago.
It sounds silly, but I really like the Logitech rebranding. The new logo and design language is much more slick. I used to hate the old logitech logo and way the products looked. And many people swear by logitech mice.
This year my steelseries sensei also died, and the main mouse button on my deathadder is also dying. I also have a Razer Mamba which is fucked. It has this grippy texture that has gotten all gross, and sticky. Maybe I just sweat a lot. But I am tired of all these mice breaking on me. FCUUUUUUUUUUKKKKKKKK.

2) Finding keycaps when you need specific language layout has been a mother fucker. Not only did I need a ISO layout (we have that crazy oversized enter key) but I also needed it to fit my language, and for us europeans that is a total nightmare, as every country have a layout. I was looking for white keys. But not only did I need them to be white, they also needed to work with backlighting. Most of the custom keycap sets do not allow for backlight to shine through and that eliminated the custom options at Maxkeyboard and WASDkeyboards, and many of the other places I checked had no ISO options.
I was very close to buying a Ducky Shine 5 just for the keycaps. But fuck that is a waste. Buying an entire keyboard just for the caps. I did finally manage to find some caps. I hope they work.
I still need to pick a TKL RGB keyboard though. I've had the Shine 2 with Blue LEDs since 2013, and I've been really hapy with it. But I really want a non-blue LED one without a numpad. Both so I can reduce space usage, but also as I am sitting so many hours in front of the computer, that my mouse hand can be closer to my center. I hope a more narrow keyboard will be more ergonomic.
Right now I'm considering the Cooler Master Masterkeys TKL. I see you can buy them with Brown switches, I guess my custom white MX cherry switches should just pop right on, right? I wonder what Browns feel like. I like how Blue switches feel, but I've never tried anything else. The only thing that bothers me about Blue is how loud they are. It's audible for my neighbors when I type 4 AM in the morning:S
Anyone here have the Cooler Master Masterkeys? I heard the older Cooler Master Rapid-i (with the white LEDs) had some build quality issues. My ducky has been a tank. I feel its so solid it could be a murder weapon. Unfortunately, Ducky still has a availability problem in many parts of the world.


3) My cablemod config is all white cables, but they were out of white 4 fan cables. If my Maximus IX motherboard has a lot of the better 4-pin fan connectors, do you guys know which type of fan extension cable I'd need? Can I plug a 3 pin female into the 4-pin male on the motherboard?


4) Electricity wise, if I get a custom micro or mini usb cable, can I use that for any peripheral that fits it? A usb cable is just a usb cable, right? There are not compatibility issues with using a sleeved mini USB cable with my keyboard right?



1.) Samsung 960 EVO 256 GB - 500 GB
2.) Samsung 850 EVO 500GB-1TB
3-5) 2x Western digital black 4TB+ HHDs (or 2x Samsung PRO SSDs, faster but more expansive) in Raid 1 for safety or Raid 0 for storage
4-5) USB 3.1 / 3.0 4TB+ HDD + key files in cloud storage (it's good to have more than one backup).

This might be a good way. :) Do you think 2x western digital 4TB in raid 0 makes more sense than a single western digital 8TB?





First off consider how much stuff you need to have installed. I currently run with two 1TB Samsung EVO 850 SSDs and no mechanical storage. First drive partitioned into a 128 GB drive for Windows + apps, second partition for all random crap I have and second drive is dedicated to games. This has so far served me really well but I am a bit short on space on the games drive now but I have too many installed anyway.

I absolutely loathe mechanical hard drives because of the noise but understand they are the option to go for backup and cheap storage. So if you can, invest in a few 1TB SSDs and then buy some large mechanical ones for storage and backup needs. Samsung's SSDs hit the perfect price vs performance point for me but to be honest I don't notice much difference between the current drives and the Intel and OCZ drives I bought several years ago when 128 and 160 GB drives were the reasonably priced ones. Basically almost any SSD is a great improvement over mechanical drives.

The 1TB is still expensive for my budget hehe. I heard someone say that a SSD works best and has the longest lifespan when its below 50% full?

The question is, would have a 960 Evo 512 as my boot drive make windows feel snappier and faster and programs open faster than a Samsung 850? Would I notice the improvements in speed above SATA 3? Because in my country the 512 GB Samsung 850 Evo are significantly cheaper than the 960 M2 512 Evo!:O
 

ISee

Member
Do you think 2x western digital 4TB in raid 0 makes more sense than a single western digital 8TB?

Raid 0 would be about 2x faster because data is being written/read on/from both drives simultaneously (data stripping). But it is nearly impossible to recover data if one of the drives fails and that's the problem with using raid 0 for sensible/important data. The probability for loosing data is higher in a raid 0 scenario than in a normal one drive scenario. The probability for a hdd failure isn't huge in the first place if you buy professional drives, but it is important to keep the higher possibility in mind before making a decision.



The question is, would have a 960 Evo 512 as my boot drive make windows feel snappier and faster and programs open faster than a Samsung 850? Would I notice the improvements in speed above SATA 3? Because in my country the 512 GB Samsung 850 Evo are significantly cheaper than the 960 M2 512 Evo!:

The 960 Evo is of course faster, but the 850 is already fast enough. You won't feel a difference.

4) Electricity wise, if I get a custom micro or mini usb cable, can I use that for any peripheral that fits it? A usb cable is just a usb cable, right? There are not compatibility issues with using a sleeved mini USB cable with my keyboard right?

Of course, an USB cable is an USB cable.

3) My cablemod config is all white cables, but they were out of white 4 fan cables. If my Maximus IX motherboard has a lot of the better 4-pin fan connectors, do you guys know which type of fan extension cable I'd need? Can I plug a 3 pin female into the 4-pin male on the motherboard?

For fans? Yes you can. The difference will be in how they are controlled. 4 pins = PWM, 3 pins = dc if I remember correctly (can be adjusted in your uefi, but they will run just fine even if you don't bother changing stuff).
 

egruntz

shelaughz
Alright GAF. Thanks to those who helped me with a starting point before. I spent some time doing some extra research and figuring out how much I'm willing to spend. Here's what I'm wanting to buy:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($328.89 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: be quiet! - Shadow Rock Slim 67.8 CFM Rifle Bearing CPU Cooler ($44.44 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus - PRIME Z270-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($149.49 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($126.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($169.99 @ Dell Small Business)
Storage: Toshiba - P300 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($62.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: NVIDIA - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Founders Edition Video Card ($549.99 @ Best Buy)
Case: Phanteks - Enthoo Primo White ATX Full Tower Case ($249.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: SeaSonic - EVO Edition 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Monitor: Dell - S2716DG 27.0" 2560x1440 144Hz Monitor ($564.00 @ Amazon)
Monitor: Dell - S2716DG 27.0" 2560x1440 144Hz Monitor ($564.00 @ Amazon)
Mouse: Logitech - G403 Prodigy Wireless Optical Mouse ($79.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $2970.75
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-05 17:42 EDT-0400

This compatibility note is mentioned on the page:

The Phanteks - Enthoo Primo White ATX Full Tower Case supports video cards up to 515mm long, but video cards over 257mm may block drive bays. Since the NVIDIA - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Founders Edition Video Card is 267mm long, some drive bays may not be usable.

I'm confused how something can accommodate "up to 500mm" GPUs, but if they are over 260mm they cause problems. That's not really accommodating it, would you say? What do you think of that compatibility note, GAF? Anything to worry about? Anything about the build in general that should be changed in your opinion?
 

Bloodember

Member
Alright GAF. Thanks to those who helped me with a starting point before. I spent some time doing some extra research and figuring out how much I'm willing to spend. Here's what I'm wanting to buy:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($328.89 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: be quiet! - Shadow Rock Slim 67.8 CFM Rifle Bearing CPU Cooler ($44.44 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus - PRIME Z270-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($149.49 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($126.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($169.99 @ Dell Small Business)
Storage: Toshiba - P300 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($62.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: NVIDIA - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Founders Edition Video Card ($549.99 @ Best Buy)
Case: Phanteks - Enthoo Primo White ATX Full Tower Case ($249.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: SeaSonic - EVO Edition 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Monitor: Dell - S2716DG 27.0" 2560x1440 144Hz Monitor ($564.00 @ Amazon)
Monitor: Dell - S2716DG 27.0" 2560x1440 144Hz Monitor ($564.00 @ Amazon)
Mouse: Logitech - G403 Prodigy Wireless Optical Mouse ($79.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $2970.75
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-05 17:42 EDT-0400

This compatibility note is mentioned on the page:



I'm confused how something can accommodate "up to 500mm" GPUs, but if they are over 260mm they cause problems. That's not really accommodating it, would you say? What do you think of that compatibility note, GAF? Anything to worry about? Anything about the build in general that should be changed in your opinion?

What that means is if your card is over 260mm you'll have to take the drive cage out that is directly behind the GPU. Not a big deal since there is more than enough bays for hard drives and that you only have two. Build looks good.
 

egruntz

shelaughz
What that means is if your card is over 260mm you'll have to take the drive cage out that is directly behind the GPU. Not a big deal since there is more than enough bays for hard drives and that you only have two. Build looks good.

Do you think that's worth avoiding by finding another case? The Enthoo Primo white is sleek. So basically, there will be 4 trays and 1 empty one if I go with the Enthoo Primo?
 

Bloodember

Member
Do you think that's worth avoiding by finding another case? The Enthoo Primo white is sleek. So basically, there will be 4 trays and 1 empty one if I go with the Enthoo Primo?
If you like the case get it. The drive cage is held in by screws, not that hard to take out. Looks like each drive bay holds 3 drives, look at the puctures, you'll understand what I'm talking about.
 

Envelope

sealed with a kiss
M.2 SSD can save space

NVMe drives are not worth it unless you have some serious networking requirement/workstation

Yes IF you want crazy fast boot times, application launches AND need to transfer big files around. ONLY if it's NVMe protocol though, otherwise it's the same read/write as SATA III drives.

so if i'm not doing heavy duty file transfer stuff just go with a regular ssd?
 

jmood88

Member
So it has been about 5 years since I got my first custom PC built and instead of upgrading, I'm looking to start completely from scratch.

Your Current Specs: N/A.

Budget: Anywhere between $1,500 and $2,000 (without monitor). If push comes to shove, I'm willing to go up to $2,500.

Main Use: Gaming and general work

Monitor Resolution: 4K

List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: I would just like to play any new game on max settings and be able to run multiple applications with minimal slowdown.

Looking to reuse any parts?: Hard drive but I am definitely looking to get another one, I just want to keep the old on in addition to getting a new one.

When will you build?: Anytime after August of this year.

Will you be overclocking?: Doubt it
 

Bloodember

Member
So it has been about 5 years since I got my first custom PC built and instead of upgrading, I'm looking to start completely from scratch.

Your Current Specs: N/A.

Budget: Anywhere between $1,500 and $2,000 (without monitor). If push comes to shove, I'm willing to go up to $2,500.

Main Use: Gaming and general work

Monitor Resolution: 4K

List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: I would just like to play any new game on max settings and be able to run multiple applications with minimal slowdown.

Looking to reuse any parts?: Hard drive but I am definitely looking to get another one, I just want to keep the old on in addition to getting a new one.

When will you build?: Anytime after August of this year.

Will you be overclocking?: Doubt it

Here you go, case is a stand in as that is personal preference. You can get a Windows 10 key from play-asia if you don't have one.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($328.89 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: be quiet! - Pure Rock Slim 35.1 CFM CPU Cooler ($23.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Asus - STRIX Z270G Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($186.49 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws 4 Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($111.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital - Blue 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($149.94 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB STRIX GAMING Video Card ($739.88 @ OutletPC)
Case: NZXT - S340 (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ B&H)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1681.06
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-05 19:50 EDT-0400
 

PotentiallyDumb

Neo Member
So I decided to get a Ryzen processor(but haven't decided which one yet). I'm just having trouble finding the right motherboard for it, what are the top two motherboards for Ryzen?

Second question is what type of screwdrivers did you guys use to build your computers?

Edit: Just thought of another question, how safe would it be to carry a new cpu and motherboard through an airport or would it be easier just to ship it in a box?
 

dcx4610

Member
So I decided to get a Ryzen processor(but haven't decided which one yet). I'm just having trouble finding the right motherboard for it, what are the top two motherboards for Ryzen?

Second question is what type of screwdrivers did you guys use to build your computers?

Everything is typically Phillips Head or Flat Head. Sizes might very but it usually doesn't get too wild.
 

Mozendo

Member
Got a question for silent PC fans.
Looking to get new fans and my friend recommend this one, but anyone more experienced with fans care to give their take on it? And before anyone suggests Corsairs AF/SP 120s, the cougar from my experience are quieter.


Edit: Just thought of another question, how safe would it be to carry a new cpu and motherboard through an airport or would it be easier just to ship it in a box?

As long as it's boxed or packaged nicely it's safe.
 
In a month or two I'll have the spare funds to get a monitor that has a working DVI/HDMI port... my current one doesn't after extensive testing (got it for free not complaining)

While my upgraded GPU will allow me to go above 1080p/60fps at high/ultra settings currently. It probably won't in a 1-2 years so setting this to last me a few years before I upgrade with a new pc/better monitor.

This will then be relegated to a 2nd screen.

With that in mind:

Any recommendations for either of the below? (Primary gaming - secondary media)
And would you buy an amazon warehouse monitor? (worried about dead pixels and returns - I live on a small island...!)

I'm leaning towards the IPS

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B014RKZ81O/

&

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00YQKTGR8/

TYIA
 

RS4-

Member
Fuck, was so close to buying the Evolv Tempered Glass, then I remembered that the CM H500P is coming out...soonish. So I'll just wait for that :(
 
Looking to upgrade my work computer's graphics card to be more on the level of 4k video editing, but I was worried about bottlenecking issues that might occur if I get the wrong card.

Current:

CPU- i7 3770k
GPU - GeForce GTX 660 Ti


I was looking to recommend the GTX 1070 to my work place, but if there is a better deal/performance that I can get, please let me know.


Quoting my post to see if somoene can help me. Would that video card be good with my current processor?

Thanks
 

Baleoce

Member
My second monitor keeps being unrecognised by Windows 10 for some reason. It never used to happen. I did recently get a longer DVI-D cable, but the cable itself works just fine.

It'll go a couple of days maybe with no hitches at all, and then I'll boot the PC on and it'll randomly decide to forget that the second DVI-D ports monitor exists. Doing the "detect monitor" option in the system menu just prompts a "no device found" message. It's only when I literally unplug the DVI-D cable and reattach it to the GPU that it recognises it. I'm using 382.33 (latest nvidia driver)
 

Pooya

Member
https://www.amazon.com/LG-24GM79G-B-...ords=144+hz+lg

Is this a good monitor? It seems like its the latest version of the one I saw IGN list as the best 144hz monitor

seems a bit overpriced for a TN panel.

Samsung C24FG70 is a bit cheaper than this right now. It's a VA display with QLED, while it might not look as crisp as TN in fast motion, the image quality is on a whole another level.

Benq 24" TN 144Hz panels are quite a bit cheaper I think but don't have freesync.

put IGN lists into trash bin where they belong.
 
Building a rig for the first time in years - my last experience was unlocking cores on a Phenom II 550: good times - and this RGB trend sure is...... something.

Anyway, my budget simply can't stretch to a 1440p monitor so I'm going 24"/1080p and I'm torn between a 1060/1070 card to pair it with.

It seems like a 1070 might be overkill at the moment unless I supersample but in 18 months I'll probably need it to run new games at 1080/60fps right?
 
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