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[BusierDonkey]

Yeah I

Right now I can order a 1TB SATA MX500 for £80, with the closest NVMe drive being the1TB Sabrent Rocket (TLC, Gen3) at £93. I'd have to get an adapter for my old mobo, so an adapter is another ~£15. SATA seems to be the way to go for now, right?

I'm still curious about how DirectStorage will affect things going forward, but I'm planning on building an entire new rig in a year or two so I suppose it will be better to evaluate the situation then. Prices may well come down by then, too, or at least speeds may go up.

I would just go ahead with the SATA drive for now and worry about the future in the future. You can always add the NVMe drive later if things start to make better use of them. I honestly think the big plus for them right now is ease of installation, not that SATA drives are rocket science either.

 

[DiegoAndrad]

Try an experiment. Take the side panel right off and if you have one, point a regular house fan directly into the case at full blast and see if that affects temps and by how much. If you see a massive drop, you know for certain the case is the problem. If you have the case wide open with a house fan blowing air at it and it still runs hot you might have bigger problems.

TEMPORARY SOLUTION:
1.)enter BIOS
2.) find Core Voltage(it can be also named Vcore) and change from "AUTO" to 1.2V.
3.) set your CPU Clock Speed from "AUTO" to 4.5GHz (BIOS can offer you some speeds which appear like 45,45.25 etc.)
4.) Don't forget to save changes and then exit BIOS

This has apparently worked for a number of users and it certainly won't hurt to give it a shot.

So, I tried both and these are the results during a stress test:

Case Closed:
- Auto Clock and Voltage: 92ºC (maybe ambient temperature is a bit higher today)
- Manual Clock and Voltage: 89ºC

Case Open + house fan:
- Auto Clock and Voltage: 89ºC
- Manual Clock and Voltage: 85ºC

So apparently airflow is not the problem and a cooler with a larger heatsink should bring better results than a new case, right?

 

[mansoor1980]

my core i5 9400 CPU cooler fan revs up depending on watching online streaming on chrome or opening a page with GIFS or images.....................that normal? rest of the specs r gud except for the crappy gpu

 

[BusierDonkey]

So, I tried both and these are the results during a stress test:

Case Closed:
- Auto Clock and Voltage: 92ºC (maybe ambient temperature is a bit higher today)
- Manual Clock and Voltage: 89ºC

Case Open + house fan:
- Auto Clock and Voltage: 89ºC
- Manual Clock and Voltage: 85ºC

So apparently airflow is not the problem and a cooler with a larger heatsink should bring better results than a new case, right?

I want to say yes, based on the open case/fan experiment not having much effect the cooler should make a difference, but in the case you're using it might not work as well as it should. I've read a few posts saying the stock 5600X cooler isn't great, but even the best air coolers need air movement to work well and shed heat. Think of it in automotive terms. Driving down the highway, even on a really hot day, a car will have no trouble shedding heat as long as air is moving through the radiator. When parked with the car still running, the fans will come on to replace the missing air movement. Now unplug one of those fans and stick a piece of cardboard over the radiator blocking half of it and that's the same effect a poorly designed case is having on your cooler.

If you replace the cooler and then close it back up in the your DeepCool Frame case you may not see as much improvement as if you replace both the cooler and case. You want air coming in the front and getting shot out of the top but that case has just a single fan in front and no top venting or fan mounts. I would tell you to consider an AIO but I don't think that case would support one with the space available either and an AIO without air movement just heat soaks. Again, all this costs money and requires time, so it's your call. You can try replacing the cooler first and see what effect closing it up in the case.

Have you contacted AMD regarding the heat to see what their opinion is? 90C is below the CPU's max temp, and you are getting lower temps than that in regular use, but just barely and in an open case with a house fan on it you should be seeing lower temps regardless of ambient temps. That's more air movement than you'll ever see with case fans albeit less directed than a well set up case..

 

[DiegoAndrad]

I want to say yes, based on the open case/fan experiment not having much effect the cooler should make a difference, but in the case you're using it might not work as well as it should. I've read a few posts saying the stock 5600X cooler isn't great, but even the best air coolers need air movement to work well and shed heat. Think of it in automotive terms. Driving down the highway, even on a really hot day, a car will have no trouble shedding heat as long as air is moving through the radiator. When parked with the car still running, the fans will come on to replace the missing air movement. Now unplug one of those fans and stick a piece of cardboard over the radiator blocking half of it and that's the same effect a poorly designed case is having on your cooler.

If you replace the cooler and then close it back up in the your DeepCool Frame case you may not see as much improvement as if you replace both the cooler and case. You want air coming in the front and getting shot out of the top but that case has just a single fan in front and no top venting or fan mounts. I would tell you to consider an AIO but I don't think that case would support one with the space available either and an AIO without air movement just heat soaks. Again, all this costs money and requires time, so it's your call. You can try replacing the cooler first and see what effect closing it up in the case.

Have you contacted AMD regarding the heat to see what their opinion is? 90C is below the CPU's max temp, and you are getting lower temps than that in regular use, but just barely and in an open case with a house fan on it you should be seeing lower temps regardless of ambient temps. That's more air movement than you'll ever see with case fans albeit less directed than a well set up case..

Just found this statement from a AMD representative. Aparently these temperatures are normal with the stock cooler. So maybe I shouldn't worry as much.

 

[DGrayson]

I mentioned it in the Xbox thread but if anyone is looking for a new controller, the new Xbox Core controller is fantastic. I'm a bit of a d-pad snob and was really surprised when I tested out the new controller at Best Buy. The new d-pad reminds me a bit of the Sega Genesis controller and feels really good and precise.

I had the Elite controller for years and then recently got the Elite 2. After feeling the new d-pad, I legit think it's better than the Elite controller. While not as grippy as the Elite, it's lighter and I like the overall feel better and think it might be my new favorite controller for PC and emulation.

Thanks. I assume it works with the same wireless USB receiver for pc that the regular Xbox one controllers work with?

 

[Soodanim]

The Crucial MX500 500GB SSD Review: A Second Look

www.anandtech.com

Are the power draw numbers here normal for a 2TB drive? They skyrocket past 1TB and it's putting me off the 2TB.

 

[DiegoAndrad]

The Crucial MX500 500GB SSD Review: A Second Look

www.anandtech.com

Are the power draw numbers here normal for a 2TB drive? They skyrocket past 1TB and it's putting me off the 2TB.

That 25mW means 0.025W

 

[Soodanim]

That 25mW means 0.025W

Perhaps I didn’t quite think it through. So in relative terms it’s high but in realistic terms it’s not going to add up to much in the long run?

 

[DiegoAndrad]

Perhaps I didn’t quite think it through. So in relative terms it’s high but in realistic terms it’s not going to add up to much in the long run?

1000 Watt-hours cost a few cents, so 0.025W is basically nothing

 

[PhoenixTank]

Perhaps I didn’t quite think it through. So in relative terms it’s high but in realistic terms it’s not going to add up to much in the long run?

You should only care if you want to put it in a laptop, really. Mostly applies to m.2 formats now, I'd imagine.

Turns out the 5600x on runs at 89ºC on full sintetic load and at around 65ºC at games now.

I know you're basically done investigating now - but what are you using to load up the system? Depending on what software & settings, it really may be nothing to worry about.

 

[GaviotaGrande]

Hi! What are some of the best MBs for Ryzen 5000? I'm thinking about going AMD for my next build and wanted to get advantage of Black Friday sales. Thanks!

 

[Soodanim]

You should only care if you want to put it in a laptop, really. Mostly applies to m.2 formats now, I'd imagine.

I hope you don't hate me for going for a SATA now after the help you gave me back in July!

 

[mansoor1980]

and also every site recommends disabling fast boot in windows 10 , why is that?

 

[DiegoAndrad]

I know you're basically done investigating now - but what are you using to load up the system? Depending on what software & settings, it really may be nothing to worry about.

I was using CPUz. In games it runs significantly cooler, but I'm a bit worried It'll start to reach those temperatures as games become next-gen only and utilize more CPU power.

I think I'll wait for the next generation of GPUs and then get a new casen along with a new GPU, as I noticed a significant change in GPU temperatures with the case open. As for the CPU cooler, I'll have to buy a new case first because the one I have only fits low profile ones, and those wouldn't be the best choice on the new case. Only issue is that it's a bit hard to find a cheap case with good airflow and a minimalistic design around here, the only one I found was the Cooler Master NR400.

 

[dave_d]

and also every site recommends disabling fast boot in windows 10 , why is that?

Basically fast boot really just hibernates the computer. (Saves the computer state to disk then shuts down. On start up your system loads the state from the drive.) The problem is that it

1. Locks the drive which makes recovery if anything goes wrong more troubling
2. Can have problems with encryption software.
3. Locking the drive also means you can't get at it if you have system with multiple OSes installed and apparently can actually cause problems when switching between OSes
4. Takes up a lot of space on the drive. (Easily can take up 10-30 GBs)
5. It doesn't even boot up that much faster anyway. I couldn't even notice the difference on a SSD.

So basically because of all those issues(with almost no real benefits) it really should be off by default but for some reason MS puts it on. (Same in Windows 8 and 8.1 btw.)

 

[mansoor1980]

Basically fast boot really just hibernates the computer. (Saves the computer state to disk then shuts down. On start up your system loads the state from the drive.) The problem is that it

1. Locks the drive which makes recovery if anything goes wrong more troubling
2. Can have problems with encryption software.
3. Locking the drive also means you can't get at it if you have system with multiple OSes installed and apparently can actually cause problems when switching between OSes
4. Takes up a lot of space on the drive. (Easily can take up 10-30 GBs)
5. It doesn't even boot up that much faster anyway. I couldn't even notice the difference on a SSD.

So basically because of all those issues(with almost no real benefits) it really should be off by default but for some reason MS puts it on. (Same in Windows 8 and 8.1 btw.)

thanks i turned it off and i already have an ssd so speed is not an issue.

 

[dave_d]

thanks i turned it off and i already have an ssd so speed is not an issue.

That's good. I'm assuming your computer is like the one I just had built and boots insanely fast. Actually I just remember another reason to not use it
6.Shutting down your computer doesn't clear your RAM with fast boot. Rebooting does however.(With fast boot off both shutdown and rebooting will clear your memory.)

 

[mansoor1980]

That's good. I'm assuming your computer is like the one I just had built and boots insanely fast. Actually I just remember another reason to not use it
6.Shutting down your computer doesn't clear your RAM with fast boot. Rebooting does however.(With fast boot off both shutdown and rebooting will clear your memory.)

core i5 9400f
16gb ddr4 2666mhz ram
256 gb lexar m2 ssd
1 tb segate 7200rpm hd
550 watt thermal take psu
and a crappy gpu that i shud not mention
my gigabyte mobo h310 2nd revision has a fast boot option in the bios screen as well.

 

[dcx4610]

Thanks. I assume it works with the same wireless USB receiver for pc that the regular Xbox one controllers work with?

It does. That's what I'm using.

 

[DGrayson]

It does. That's what I'm using.

Amazing! Thanks. I have 4 Xbox 360 controllers wtih rotating Dpads which have been my main PC controllers for years. I use the wireless PC 360 dongle. I love them and i would play them so hard that hte DPad would snap eventually. I have a sack of extra DPads for when they break I just swap them out.

BUT they have been developing some stick drift. They might just need to get cleaned.

I also have a Xbox one controller and the official Xbox One PC wireless dongle but while I think the Dpad feels nice and clicky, the Dpad is just too small for me to play 2D games with. This new controller seems like it might be the perfect mix of the Xbox 360 wtih rotating Dpad and the new tech of the Xbox one controller!

 

[dcx4610]

Amazing! Thanks. I have 4 Xbox 360 controllers wtih rotating Dpads which have been my main PC controllers for years. I use the wireless PC 360 dongle. I love them and i would play them so hard that hte DPad would snap eventually. I have a sack of extra DPads for when they break I just swap them out.

BUT they have been developing some stick drift. They might just need to get cleaned.

I also have a Xbox one controller and the official Xbox One PC wireless dongle but while I think the Dpad feels nice and clicky, the Dpad is just too small for me to play 2D games with. This new controller seems like it might be the perfect mix of the Xbox 360 wtih rotating Dpad and the new tech of the Xbox one controller!

I've done 360 > Xbox One > Elite > Elite 2 and now Core controller for PC. Even the Elite 2 controller doesn't compare to the the new Core controller. I play a ton of platformers/2D games and a good d-pad is a must for me and the new controller nails it. It has a little dip in the middle for your thumb to rest on and feels perfect. If you have a Best Buy, they are still on sale for $39.99.

 

[Croatoan]

So I got the go ahead to start ordering parts for my PC but what the hell should I get? I play 1440p and already have a 2080ti (which I will be using until I get a 3090 or 3080).

If you were to build a big boy what would you get?

Intel, AMD?

Is there a 5700x/5900x build somewhere? What are the wait times to even get one of those (they seem to be out)? There a no mobos out that already have the bios ready to go for it? Should I go intel to just skip this shit?

Should I go intel for availability?

I am having option paralysis and need help.

What about something like this?

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i9-10900K 3.7 GHz 10-Core Processor ($529.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12S 55 CFM CPU Cooler ($59.95 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING Z490-PLUS ATX LGA1200 Motherboard ($179.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: *G.Skill Ripjaws V 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory ($139.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($149.99 @ Adorama)
Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($74.99 @ Walmart)
Power Supply: *Enermax Revolution D.F. 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($109.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1344.88
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-11-27 16:07 EST-0500

Is the 10900k complete overkill for gaming?

 

[BluRayHiDef]

What do you guys think of my current build? I gradually assembled it over the past two months by replacing components in my previous one. At this point, the only components remaining from my old build are the three mechanical hard drives, the one SATA SSD, and the power supply.

1. Ryzen 9 3950X [undervolted to 1.0v and cooled by Cooler Master MasterAir MA620M]
2. Asus X570 ROG Crosshair VIII Hero (WI-FI)
3. G. Skill Trident Z RGB 64GBs (2 x 32GBs) DDR4 RAM @ 3600 MHz
4. EVGA RTX 3090 FTW3 Ultra Gaming
5. Samsung 850 EVO 500GB SATA SSD (Windows OS and non-gaming programs)
6. Sabrent "Rocket" PCIe Gen 4.0 NVMe 2TB SSD (games)
7. Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB HDD
8. Western Digital Blue 4TB & 6TB HDDs
9. Corsair TX850M 850 Watt 80+ Gold PSU
10. Cooler Master SickleFlow 120 V2 ARGB 120mm Fans x 10
11. Lian Li O11 Dynamic XL ROG

Spoiler

 

[DGrayson]

What do you guys think of my current build? I gradually assembled it over the past two months by replacing components in my previous one. At this point, the only components remaining from my old build are the three mechanical hard drives, the one SATA SSD, and the power supply.

1. Ryzen 9 3950X [undervolted to 1.0v and cooled by Cooler Master MasterAir MA620M]
2. Asus X570 ROG Crosshair VIII Hero (WI-FI)
3. G. Skill Trident Z RGB 64GBs (2 x 32GBs) DDR4 RAM @ 3600 MHz
4. EVGA RTX 3090 FTW3 Ultra Gaming
5. Samsung 850 EVO 500GB SATA SSD (Windows OS and non-gaming programs)
6. Sabrent "Rocket" PCIe Gen 4.0 NVMe 2TB SSD (games)
7. Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB HDD
8. Western Digital Blue 4TB & 6TB HDDs
9. Corsair TX850M 850 Watt 80+ Gold PSU
10. Cooler Master SickleFlow 120 V2 ARGB 120mm Fans x 10
11. Lian Li O11 Dynamic XL ROG

Spoiler

Very nice! Super clean

 

[notseqi]

So I got the go ahead to start ordering parts for my PC but what the hell should I get? I play 1440p and already have a 2080ti (which I will be using until I get a 3090 or 3080).

If you were to build a big boy what would you get?

Intel, AMD?

Is there a 5700x/5900x build somewhere? What are the wait times to even get one of those (they seem to be out)? There a no mobos out that already have the bios ready to go for it? Should I go intel to just skip this shit?

Should I go intel for availability?

I am having option paralysis and need help.

What about something like this?

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i9-10900K 3.7 GHz 10-Core Processor ($529.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12S 55 CFM CPU Cooler ($59.95 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING Z490-PLUS ATX LGA1200 Motherboard ($179.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: *G.Skill Ripjaws V 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory ($139.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($149.99 @ Adorama)
Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($74.99 @ Walmart)
Power Supply: *Enermax Revolution D.F. 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($109.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1344.88
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-11-27 16:07 EST-0500

Is the 10900k complete overkill for gaming?

Are you hard pressed for an update? Build is fine but I'd wait for availability on Ryzen 5600x or up, benches look great. If you can spare the cash go for lower CAS Latency on the RAM. Doesn't have to be 14-14-14 but lower is better. 10900k is not overkill but also not needed if you want to stick to the 2080ti for a bit.

 

[Anki]

Question: for freesync monitor which is also compatible with geforce gpus, will it work same with radeon and geforce? I mean is there anything missing if i am using geforce, or it’s exactly the same.

 

[chorizosausage#3774]

New build ready to go sans CPU, and I'm not paying more than £299 for a 5600X!

I wonder how quickly they'll restock

 

[GreatnessRD]

So I got the go ahead to start ordering parts for my PC but what the hell should I get? I play 1440p and already have a 2080ti (which I will be using until I get a 3090 or 3080).

If you were to build a big boy what would you get?

Intel, AMD?

Is there a 5700x/5900x build somewhere? What are the wait times to even get one of those (they seem to be out)? There a no mobos out that already have the bios ready to go for it? Should I go intel to just skip this shit?

Should I go intel for availability?

I am having option paralysis and need help.

What about something like this?

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i9-10900K 3.7 GHz 10-Core Processor ($529.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12S 55 CFM CPU Cooler ($59.95 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING Z490-PLUS ATX LGA1200 Motherboard ($179.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: *G.Skill Ripjaws V 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory ($139.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($149.99 @ Adorama)
Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($74.99 @ Walmart)
Power Supply: *Enermax Revolution D.F. 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($109.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1344.88
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-11-27 16:07 EST-0500

Is the 10900k complete overkill for gaming?

It's one of those things as to do you need the build now or just want it? If you want the absolute best for gaming RIGHT NOW, AMD 5000 series is the way to go. Even though the availability is spotty right now, it appears to be picking up even still. I walked into Microcenter yesterday on Black Friday and ALMOST bought a 5800x, but decided I'll just wait for the 5600x /or AM5 socket because of my use case. That Intel 10th gen setup you have there is more than plenty and I feel you would definitely be happy with it. But if you're patience and don't mind waiting, I'd say wait for AMD. Good luck with your decision.

 

[Croatoan]

Are you hard pressed for an update? Build is fine but I'd wait for availability on Ryzen 5600x or up, benches look great. If you can spare the cash go for lower CAS Latency on the RAM. Doesn't have to be 14-14-14 but lower is better. 10900k is not overkill but also not needed if you want to stick to the 2080ti for a bit.

I'll be going with a 3080 or 3090 whenever they get more available (or a 3080ti if that ever comes available with more VRAM). Do you have a recommendation for ram?

It's one of those things as to do you need the build now or just want it? If you want the absolute best for gaming RIGHT NOW, AMD 5000 series is the way to go. Even though the availability is spotty right now, it appears to be picking up even still. I walked into Microcenter yesterday on Black Friday and ALMOST bought a 5800x, but decided I'll just wait for the 5600x /or AM5 socket because of my use case. That Intel 10th gen setup you have there is more than plenty and I feel you would definitely be happy with it. But if you're patience and don't mind waiting, I'd say wait for AMD. Good luck with your decision.

I am getting parts for christmas from family members so availability is important. Also, I have always been an intel guy so I am pretty comfortable with them.

 

[notseqi]

Do you have a recommendation for ram?

Depends on if you're sticking with Intel. For Intel you can go down in speed to 3200 and get good timings on the RAM, 15-15-15 would be fine, just one from the major brands, running Corsair myself.
G.Skill Trident Z 3200mhz CL14 looks fine on the site I am looking at right now, 256€ for 32gig.

 

[Croatoan]

Depends on if you're sticking with Intel. For Intel you can go down in speed to 3200 and get good timings on the RAM, 15-15-15 would be fine, just one from the major brands, running Corsair myself.
G.Skill Trident Z 3200mhz CL14 looks fine on the site I am looking at right now, 256€ for 32gig.

Yeah, I am sticking with Intel.

I don't want RGB so would these be okay? https://pcpartpicker.com/product/BZ...16-gb-ddr4-3200-cl14-memory-f4-3200c14d-32gvk

or are the tridents just that much better?

IF the ripjaws are okay this would be the new build (made some more changes)

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i9-10900K 3.7 GHz 10-Core Processor ($527.98 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15S 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler ($79.90 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING Z490-PLUS ATX LGA1200 Motherboard ($179.94 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL14 Memory ($194.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($149.99 @ Adorama)
Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($77.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA G3 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($173.97 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1484.74
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-11-28 13:05 EST-0500

 

[notseqi]

Yeah, I am sticking with Intel.

I don't want RGB so would these be okay? https://pcpartpicker.com/product/BZ...16-gb-ddr4-3200-cl14-memory-f4-3200c14d-32gvk

or are the tridents just that much better?

IF the ripjaws are okay this would be the new build (made some more changes)

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i9-10900K 3.7 GHz 10-Core Processor ($527.98 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15S 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler ($79.90 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING Z490-PLUS ATX LGA1200 Motherboard ($179.94 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL14 Memory ($194.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($149.99 @ Adorama)
Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($77.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA G3 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($173.97 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1484.74
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-11-28 13:05 EST-0500

They are fine and overclockable, good choice.

 

[Max_Po]

Hey guys, need some help. I purchased an i7-rtx 3080 pc with the following specs. I could not find an rtx 3080 since launch. ....
I spent about 2600 CDN on it after coupons, rebates and taxes. I am only concerned with 4k60 fps max
Games: Fight Simulator, General PC ports, RDR2, CyberPunk2077, Resident Evil games....

Alienware R11

Intel® Core™ i7 10700KF (8-Core, 16MB Cache, 3.8GHz to 5.1GHz w/Turbo Boost Max 3.0)
NVIDIA® GeForce RTX™ 3080 10GB GDDR6X
16GB Dual Channel HyperX™ FURY DDR4 XMP at 3200MHz
512GB M.2 PCIe NVMe SSD (Boot) + 2TB 7200RPM SATA 6Gb/s (Storage)
Lunar Light chassis with High-Performance CPU Liquid Cooling and 1000W Power Supply
Intel® Wi-Fi 6 AX201 (2x2) 802.11ax Wireless and Bluetooth 5.1

Currently I have a laptop with 1660 Ti, which I do not use for gaming or have no interest in gaming on the Laptop.

Questions:

1. Should I cancel the order and wait for 3080 TI version? will that help me in my situation? I have read rumors that it is suppose to have 20 gig of VRam.
2. What is DLSS and do I need to do anything to make the performance stay at 60 fps or more while resolution takes a hit?
3. How many years can I game at high/ultra settings @4k60
4. DO Alienware card cards have same/similar frequency compared to brands like EVGA?
5. Any other advise ?

Thanks for your time.

 

[notseqi]

Hey guys, need some help. I purchased an i7-rtx 3080 pc with the following specs. I could not find an rtx 3080 since launch. ....
I spent about 2600 CDN on it after coupons, rebates and taxes. I am only concerned with 4k60 fps max
Games: Fight Simulator, General PC ports, RDR2, CyberPunk2077, Resident Evil games....

Alienware R11

Intel® Core™ i7 10700KF (8-Core, 16MB Cache, 3.8GHz to 5.1GHz w/Turbo Boost Max 3.0)
NVIDIA® GeForce RTX™ 3080 10GB GDDR6X
16GB Dual Channel HyperX™ FURY DDR4 XMP at 3200MHz; up to 64GB (additional memory sold separately)
512GB M.2 PCIe NVMe SSD (Boot) + 2TB 7200RPM SATA 6Gb/s (Storage)
Lunar Light chassis with High-Performance CPU Liquid Cooling and 1000W Power Supply
Intel® Wi-Fi 6 AX201 (2x2) 802.11ax Wireless and Bluetooth 5.1

Currently I have a laptop with 1660 Ti, which I do not use for gaming or have no interest in gaming on the Laptop.

Questions:

1. Should I cancel the order and wait for 3080 TI version? will that help me in my situation? I have read rumors that it is suppose to have 20 gig of VRam.
2. What is DLSS and do I need to do anything to make the performance stay at 60 fps or more while resolution takes a hit?
3. How many years can I game at high/ultra settings @4k60
4. DO Alienware card cards have same/similar frequency compared to brands like EVGA?
5. Any other advise ?

Thanks for your time.

1. Should I cancel the order and wait for 3080 TI version? will that help me in my situation? I have read rumors that it is suppose to have 20 gig of VRam.
-Wait, in regards to point 3. If you have the money to spend, get it in now. If not, you'll have to wait for May at least to get something different.

2. What is DLSS and do I need to do anything to make the performance stay at 60 fps or more while resolution takes a hit?
-DLSS is a technique employed by Nvidia and attempted to be copied by AMD that takes repeating patterns of aliased corners and washes them out, in turn creating a sharper image. Very very basic description, but it allows you to turn down the resolution which taxes your system and instead invest it in DLSS. This video makes short work of how it works in games:


3. How many years can I game at high/ultra settings @4k60
-Hard to say, depends on developers. If the current trend is to be believed, 2-3 years, more if you're lucky.

4. DO Alienware card cards have same/similar frequency compared to brands like EVGA?
-Frankly dunno, from what I heard there isn't much overclocking headroom on the 3080.

5. Any other advise ?
-Pull your pants down before you pee.

 

[BusierDonkey]

I managed to snag one of the pump mount arms while it taking it out of the case again to test another pump which cracked a hose fitting. It dumped all the coolant directly on my motherboard. Overall not the best Sunday!

 

[mr.dilya]

So um, can someone tell me what happened?

Was playing the Witcher 3 for about 2 hours, after sometime in the game crashed back to the steam "play screen," no big deal first time it ever happened. Loaded the game again and played another hour with no issues, quit the game. Couple minutes after I noticed the system being slighly sluggish...then I heard two beeps from my computer. I restarted the system, and it took a few seconds longer to boot up. Everything is working fine again now.

I checked my GPU temps and they were fine, CPU temps were fine as far as I could tell. Was that just a one off? Where those beeps come from? I recently disabled fast boot in the power options idk if maybe that did something but I doubt it.

 

[chorizosausage#3774]

The GPU situation is frustrating , is there some plot to gouge pc gamers? Looking for a new GPU, I note my old GPU is £30 more expensive than when I bought it(3 years ago?!?). Really want an rx5700 (xt or not) for 1440p, is it a good idea to spend £400 on one at this point? or should bide my time.

 

[dave_d]

The GPU situation is frustrating , is there some plot to gouge pc gamers? Looking for a new GPU, I note my old GPU is £30 more expensive than when I bought it(3 years ago?!?). Really want an rx5700 (xt or not) for 1440p, is it a good idea to spend £400 on one at this point? or should bide my time.

No, it's just supply is so tight. It's all a guessing game at this point when supply is going to come back. I'm just hoping after the new year supply picks up and I'll be able to get the card I want. Supposedly the 3060 ti is coming out tomorrow, guess we'll see what the supply on that is.

 

[notseqi]

No, it's just supply is so tight. It's all a guessing game at this point when supply is going to come back. I'm just hoping after the new year supply picks up and I'll be able to get the card I want. Supposedly the 3060 ti is coming out tomorrow, guess we'll see what the supply on that is.

Where did all the 2080s go? Couldn't find any on any of the three sites I'd be looking at.

 

[dave_d]

Where did all the 2080s go? Couldn't find any on any of the three sites I'd be looking at.

From what I remember right before Nvidia released the 3000 series they stopped producing a lot of their 2000 series video cards. I think it was 2070 Supers and better cards are no longer being produced. So that's driven up the price of those as well if you can find them.

 

[Ascend]

Where did all the 2080s go? Couldn't find any on any of the three sites I'd be looking at.

Why though? At this point you're better off targeting an RTX 3060 Ti or one of AMD's 6700 cards.

 

[BusierDonkey]

The GPU situation is frustrating , is there some plot to gouge pc gamers? Looking for a new GPU, I note my old GPU is £30 more expensive than when I bought it(3 years ago?!?). Really want an rx5700 (xt or not) for 1440p, is it a good idea to spend £400 on one at this point? or should bide my time.

No plot, it's almost always due bitcoin miners. Coupled with the fanfare this new line of cards has received the demand is just stupid right now.

Just wait it out if you can and jump when something reasonable pops up.

When the 2080ti launched I was looking to replace my 980ti. Pricing was a joke thanks to mining at the time so I kept playing on the 980ti and just made adjustments to keep performance up in new games.

When I finally got my 2080ti I got one for less than the 1080ti asking price was the year before because there was a dip in mining and card prices also fluctuated. It was also an oddball card being a hybrid cooled card. Thanks to tech tubers scaring people off liquid cooling (despite using it themselves) the hybrid cars are a hard sell compared to the cards with standard cooling.

 

[notseqi]

Why though? At this point you're better off targeting an RTX 3060 Ti or one of AMD's 6700 cards.

I don't want to buy one, going AMD anyway. Just noticed that the cheapo-2080s after the 30x0 reveal are gone.

 

[AV]

Just pulled the trigger on the below. £1189 delivered (on Christmas eve of all days), so about what, $1600? No GPU as the new ones aren't quite where I want them to be, so I'm just sticking my 1080ti in there for now while I wait and see what 2021 holds. But my mobo + RAM + i7-4970k are showing their age now, so I wanted to bump the rest up, and sell this one cheap to a friend. Thoughts?

Lian Li Lancool II Mesh White Mid-Tower Case
6x Corsair SP120 Addressable RGB Fans
ASUS TUF GAMING X570-Plus
AMD Ryzen 5 5600X (No OC)
Corsair Hydro Series H45 High Performance Liquid Cooling
1TB WD Blue SN550 M.2 NVMe PCIe SSD
2TB Seagate BarraCuda SATA-III 6.0Gb/s 7200RPM Hard Drive
16GB (2x8GB) DDR4/3200mhz Corsair Vengeance Pro RGB
Corsair RM850x 850W 80+ Gold PSU

Strictly a gaming and surfing PC, my workstation is remote.

 

[eodharbinger]

Anyone have a build (parts list) recommendation for a sml-mid form factor (going to be a gaming PC attached to my CX in the living room) AMD 6800 with an AMD CPU which takes advantage of smart mem access w/ GPU.
The OP doesn't seem to have been updated post 6800 launch, so any input would be appreciated.
Thank you!

 

[DGrayson]

Anyone have a build (parts list) recommendation for a sml-mid form factor (going to be a gaming PC attached to my CX in the living room) AMD 6800 with an AMD CPU which takes advantage of smart mem access w/ GPU.
The OP doesn't seem to have been updated post 6800 launch, so any input would be appreciated.
Thank you!

Just FYI we will have a new thread up end of the month or early jan with new builds

 

[Ceadeus]

Hi, I'm thinking of building a pc. Is this rig any good? i'm looking to save money and get the best for money/performance

Micro ATX Gigabyte B450 Aorus M motherboard
Ryzen 5 3600
500W 80 plus bronze
WD blue 1To SSD M.2
G Skill Trident Z 2x8 ddr4 3200MHz
RTX3060Ti (once it's back in stock in 2036...)

any suggestion? I'm looking to game at 1080p/1440p 60 to 120fps. I also have Rift S.

I found AMD to be better for the price comprared to Intel but I might be wrong? Thank you for helping.

 

[notseqi]

Hi, I'm thinking of building a pc. Is this rig any good? i'm looking to save money and get the best for money/performance

Micro ATX Gigabyte B450 Aorus M motherboard
Ryzen 5 3600
500W 80 plus bronze
WD blue 1To SSD M.2
G Skill Trident Z 2x8 ddr4 3200MHz
RTX3060Ti (once it's back in stock in 2036...)

any suggestion? I'm looking to game at 1080p/1400p 60 to 120fps. I also have Rift S.

I found AMD to be better for the price comprared to Intel but I might be wrong? Thank you for helping.

Great for 1440p, not sure about the Rift S, no experiences on that.

 

[Ceadeus]

Great for 1440p, not sure about the Rift S, no experiences on that.

thank you, do you have any other suggestion for the motherboard? I'm not looking for overclocking. This Aorus MB is going for 79$ on sale right now, anything else would be better for the price?