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[VAVA Mk2]

Lian Li O11 Dynamic Evo. I can switch sides of the case where the glass is facing right instead of the usual left. So everything is inverted.

O11 DYNAMIC EVO - LIAN LI is a Leading Provider of PC Cases | Computer Cases

Keep cool with the O11 Dynamic series all-new design and express the preferable configuration. REVERSIBLE CHASSIS MESH PANEL INTEGRATION FLEXIBLE CONFIGURATION OPTIMIZE COOLING SUPPORT 9 DRIVES CAPACITY CABLE MANAGEMENT FRIENDLY 5 OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES GERMAN ENGINEERED...

lian-li.com

That is such a beautiful case

 

[VAVA Mk2]

4070ti is overkill for 60fps on Pc.

What resolution?

 

[twilo99]

There is no EVGA 4070 ti.

I'm just stupid.

I misread the comment and meant the 3070ti

 

[Black_Stride]

Will Intel's thermals necessarily improve when they go chiplet in a gen or two?

Rumors are saying MeteorLake has been cancelled entirely for Desktops only mobile MeteorLake CPUs, we will instead get a RaptorLake refresh then jump straight to ArrowLake which should not only be on a smaller node but also be disaggregated, which should indeed improve thermals quite a bit.

 

[GymWolf]

As of 10 minutes ago, Best Buy was showing the 4080 Founders Edition as available to order.

I live in europe and in here some third party models cost as much or less than founders edition strangely enough.

Thanks for the heads up but right now availability doesn't seems to be a problem (i mean unless all the sites lie about availability like the one where i bought mine)

 

[cartman414]

Rumors are saying MeteorLake has been cancelled entirely for Desktops only mobile MeteorLake CPUs, we will instead get a RaptorLake refresh then jump straight to ArrowLake which should not only be on a smaller node but also be disaggregated, which should indeed improve thermals quite a bit.

So yet another Ice Lake?

At least this will make waiting a little longer easier.

 

[winjer]

It's less complicated when copying tighter memory settings from another user with the same motherboard and RAM modules.

For example with tighter memory settings

I copied the above settings from somebody else with the same RAM model and ROG CrossHire X670E which I applied on my ROG CrossHair X670E and TUF Gaming X670E Plus Wifi motherboards.

Yes, that is possible. But it's not guaranteed to work, as there is a good amount of variance with chips, be it the memory controler on the CPU, or the chips on the memory sticks.
Don't forget to always test your memory thoroughly.

 

[Black_Stride]

So yet another Ice Lake?

At least this will make waiting a little longer easier.

Yup.
I was thinking of grabbing a 136K but if theres already a RaptorLake Refresh coming up, I can probably wait for that.
Or maybe even stretch it out all the way to ArrowLake.

 

[rnlval]

Yes, that is possible. But it's not guaranteed to work, as there is a good amount of variance with chips, be it the memory controler on the CPU, or the chips on the memory sticks.
Don't forget to always test your memory thoroughly.

My memory test tools are OCCT and memtest86.

 

[winjer]

My memory test tools are OCCT and memtest86.

Those are good programs.
I also use Memtest86. But also, TestMem5 with the Anta777 Extreme preset.
And I use Y-cruncher to hit the memory controller hard.

 

[rnlval]

Those are good programs.
I also use Memtest86. But also, TestMem5 with the Anta777 Extreme preset.
And I use Y-cruncher to hit the memory controller hard.

OCCT's memory test has AVX2 support.

 

[rnlval]

Yes, that is possible. But it's not guaranteed to work, as there is a good amount of variance with chips, be it the memory controler on the CPU, or the chips on the memory sticks.
Don't forget to always test your memory thoroughly.

I have both 7900X with TUF X670E Plus Wifi and 7950X with ROG Crosshair X670E Hero. Each motherboard has two F5-6000J3038F16GX2-TZ5NR modules.

Chip variance can be shown via ASUS AM5's BIOS SP scores

Examples

From https://www.overclock.net/threads/a...scussion-thread.1799959/page-21#post-29040269 domdtxdissar's one of two 7950X CPUs

-----

My Ryzen 9 7900X's SP scores via TUF X670X Plus Wifi's BIOS

 

[winjer]

I have both 7900X with TUF X670E Plus Wifi and 7950X with ROG Crosshair X670E Hero. Each motherboard has two F5-6000J3038F16GX2-TZ5NR modules.

Chip variance can be shown via ASUS AM5's BIOS SP scores

Examples

From https://www.overclock.net/threads/a...scussion-thread.1799959/page-21#post-29040269 domdtxdissar's one of two 7950X CPUs

-----

My Ryzen 9 7900X's SP scores via TUF X670X Plus Wifi's BIOS

That does not show how good the memory controller is, what are the best impedances, voltages, etc

 

[rnlval]

That does not show how good the memory controller is, what are the best impedances, voltages, etc

FYI, my manual memory timings are based on somebody else's work. e.g. somebody's Ryzen 9 7900X and TUF X670E Plus WiFi's memory timings.

From

 

[winjer]

FYI, my manual memory timings are based on somebody else's work. e.g. somebody's Ryzen 9 7900X and TUF X670E Plus WiFi's memory timings.

From

The current timings I use are also based on other people's.
But I managed to tune it even further.

 

[GreatnessRD]

Yup.
I was thinking of grabbing a 136K but if theres already a RaptorLake Refresh coming up, I can probably wait for that.
Or maybe even stretch it out all the way to ArrowLake.

What's currently under your hood?

 

[Black_Stride]

What's currently under your hood?

12400.
It was always a stopgap CPU till RaptorLake.....but if a refresh is already on the horizon I can wait for that refresh on the same motherboard.
Or if I dont feel like im being severely bottlenecked wait for ArrowLake.

My 3080 is currently the bottleneck at 3440x1440p@144
Upgrading now would net me approx 5 - 10fps on the extreme.

 

[GreatnessRD]

12400.
It was always a stopgap CPU till RaptorLake.....but if a refresh is already on the horizon I can wait for that refresh on the same motherboard.
Or if I dont feel like im being severely bottlenecked wait for ArrowLake.

My 3080 is currently the bottleneck at 3440x1440p@144
Upgrading now would net me approx 5 - 10fps on the extreme.

Just go deep in them pockets and grab that 13900KS!

Jokes aside, it is smart to wait for the refresh like you're doing!

 

[twilo99]

Hmm

 

[GreatnessRD]

Hmm

And people still gonna buy a 3050 for $500, lmao

 

[twilo99]

And people still gonna buy a 3050 for $500, lmao

I know, but we have to admit the GPU market is rather confusing at the moment ..

Here is a good deal if anyone is looking

MSI Gaming Radeon RX 6800 XT Video Card RX 6800 XT GAMING X TRIO 16G - Newegg.com

Buy MSI Gaming Radeon RX 6800 XT 16GB GDDR6 PCI Express 4.0 CrossFireX Support Video Card RX 6800 XT GAMING X TRIO 16G with fast shipping and top-rated customer service. Once you know, you Newegg!

www.newegg.com

Here is more cost per frame info

Cost Per Frame: Best Value Graphics Cards in Early 2023

With the recent launch of new GPUs from both AMD and Nvidia, it's time to take a look into what graphics cards are the best value right...

www.techspot.com

 

[NeonDelta]

not sure if it's the right thread. but im about to move windows off my old 250gb SSD as it keeps running low on space, is it best to put this on a 2tb NVME drive or on a SATA SSD? i only have 1 NVME slot.

 

[twilo99]

not sure if it's the right thread. but im about to move windows off my old 250gb SSD as it keeps running low on space, is it best to put this on a 2tb NVME drive or on a SATA SSD? i only have 1 NVME slot.

I'd go for the 2tv NVME

 

[Xdrive05]

I just sold my used (since April) RTX 3050 for $280 cash after listing it for a half a day. Kinda makes me wished I ask for $300. But yeah that's a crazy price for these and the market really likes paying that for them.

Anyway, it completely covered my RTX 3060 12GB purchase from EVGA before Christmas for $259.99 from their B stock promo they did briefly on this model. So it was literally a free upgrade. I don't think I'll get that "lucky" again for a good while, so I'm drinking this in while I can.

 

[dave_d]

12400.
It was always a stopgap CPU till RaptorLake.....but if a refresh is already on the horizon I can wait for that refresh on the same motherboard.
Or if I dont feel like im being severely bottlenecked wait for ArrowLake.

My 3080 is currently the bottleneck at 3440x1440p@144
Upgrading now would net me approx 5 - 10fps on the extreme.

Wow, do all of you upgrade as quickly as that? I mean I was planning on my next build in 2024/2025 from my previous build. (Which was in 2020, a 3800xt) Wonder if Arrow lake will be out by then. You guys are definitely tempting me to do a new build sooner rather than later

 

[Black_Stride]

Wow, do all of you upgrade as quickly as that? I mean I was planning on my next build in 2024/2025 from my previous build. (Which was in 2020, a 3800xt) Wonder if Arrow lake will be out by then. You guys are definitely tempting me to do a new build sooner rather than later

Nahh not usually.
The 12400 was just a stopgap CPU for me, I was really starting to feel the burn of older architectures cuz i got a 144Hz screen, i would probably have even gotten a 4 core i3 if im being honest with myself but the 12400 i got was like 140 bucks.
Main thing was Intel doing generational leaps, AlderLake was a huge upgrade and we already knew RaptorLake was a year later, so I just needed to have something to hold me out till then.
And now I know that RaptorLake is getting a refresh I can hold out for the RaptorLake Refresh.
ArrowLake is gonna be a pretty sizeable upgrade from all the rumors and LunarLake will be a whole fresh new Architecture.....but that like 2025 or something.
As long as I dont feel im being CPU bound in games, I can stick with whatever CPU ive got, but weve seen how powerful Ada is especially at 3440x1440@144.
I might actually be able to max out my refresh rate at high settings.....I want to do that and by the smell of things, my CPU is whats gonna prevent that cuz Ada is clearly up to the task.

 

[LavitzSlambert]

What kind of options do I have to potentially replace a Z97 and Haswell i5? Pretty sure my CPU or mobo is fried somehow, and I just don't have the heart to spend a ton on new parts and need to setup my computer again. Looking to swap in replacement hardware and continue to use my SSD as-is.

 

[DGrayson]

What kind of options do I have to potentially replace a Z97 and Haswell i5? Pretty sure my CPU or mobo is fried somehow, and I just don't have the heart to spend a ton on new parts and need to setup my computer again. Looking to swap in replacement hardware and continue to use my SSD as-is.

Sounds rough not a lot you can do if you need a new mobo, CPU or both. You are looking at a clean reinstall of Windows.

Best to pull your SSD, attach it by USB to another computer, copy off hte data you want, then do a fresh install of windows after you get your new components then you can copy the data you backed up to your new build. It sucks but it will be worth it in the long run.

 

[winjer]

not sure if it's the right thread. but im about to move windows off my old 250gb SSD as it keeps running low on space, is it best to put this on a 2tb NVME drive or on a SATA SSD? i only have 1 NVME slot.

You should use the nvme drive. But you can create 2 partitions on that drive.
For example, 500GB for Windows and programs. And the remaining space for a partition for games and documents.
This way, if you ever need to reinstall Windows, you can just format the Windows partition, without touching the other partition and risk losing data.

 

[winjer]

 

[GymWolf]

Does anyone has a valid reason on why i should not buy a palit gaming pro 4080 and save 100 euros and buy the gigabyte gaming oc version instead?

 

[GreatnessRD]

Does anyone has a valid reason on why i should not buy a palit gaming pro 4080 and save 100 euros and buy the gigabyte gaming oc version instead?

Yes. Because you need a 4090. The more you spend, the more you save!

 

[winjer]

Core i9 13900K DDR5 7200 MHz (+memory scaling) review

Recently look at the performance differential between DDR5 6000 and 7200 MHz on Raptor-Lake, Intels Gen 13th series processors. Today we review a TeamGroup T-Force Delta 7200 CL34 (!) DDR5 kit to see...

www.guru3d.com

 

[LavitzSlambert]

Sounds rough not a lot you can do if you need a new mobo, CPU or both. You are looking at a clean reinstall of Windows.

Best to pull your SSD, attach it by USB to another computer, copy off hte data you want, then do a fresh install of windows after you get your new components then you can copy the data you backed up to your new build. It sucks but it will be worth it in the long run.

That's my last resort if all else fails, but I am hoping to diagnose whether it's the mobo or CPU because if I can isolate the issue, I am just going to replace with an identical part and get another couple years out of it until I'm ready for a full rebuild. Reinstall and reconfiguring is what I want to avoid most, I hate it even during the best times of a planned upgrade.


Of course I bought the good stuff and something fails (ASUS Z97 Sabertooth Mark 2 and i5 4690k).

 

[DGrayson]

That's my last resort if all else fails, but I am hoping to diagnose whether it's the mobo or CPU because if I can isolate the issue, I am just going to replace with an identical part and get another couple years out of it until I'm ready for a full rebuild. Reinstall and reconfiguring is what I want to avoid most, I hate it even during the best times of a planned upgrade.


Of course I bought the good stuff and something fails (ASUS Z97 Sabertooth Mark 2 and i5 4690k).

Sure but you bought the good stuff what in 2013? 2014? You probably got a long time of quality use out of it!

 

[LavitzSlambert]

Sure but you bought the good stuff what in 2013? 2014? You probably got a long time of quality use out of it!

2014 which is a decent run, but I computers I've bought have been retired before they died so I expected this to last even longer. I was aiming for a 10 year anniversary! I've gotten into some basic soldering and repair work (mainly gaming) and what I've learned is that there's always a physical reason for things to stop working. So unless something burnt out (no sign of it) this thing should still be kicking.

Last month I'm pretty sure my CMOS battery went since my clock reset, but I was running without just fine so long as I had internet. I powered it off one night and then when I tried turning it back on a day or two later - here I am with no display. It powered the fans and stayed on the first few times I tested, but now it just boot loops with a clicking noise. I thought my PSU (EVGA G2) went bad just a year outside of warranty but that powered up an old desktop without issue. Since then I've replaced the CMOS battery, removed it entirely. Then pulled all of the parts, GPU and RAM removal did nothing and now I even pulled it all from the case so I am pretty convinced it's gotta be CPU/mobo. There was at one point a red LED on indicating CPU being an issue but I haven't been able to reproduce, so it's hard to say whether or not it was the mobo failing and giving a false reading or if the CPU is really the problem. No popped caps, scorches, bent pins, anything I can tell.


At this point I may check under the mobo heat sinks to see if any ICs are fried. Or maybe see if I can get a cheap as dirt LGA 1150 to determine if my CPU is fine - that would give me closure so that I'm not just getting rid of good hardware because of potentially a simple fix.

 

[PhoenixTank]

2014 which is a decent run, but I computers I've bought have been retired before they died so I expected this to last even longer. I was aiming for a 10 year anniversary! I've gotten into some basic soldering and repair work (mainly gaming) and what I've learned is that there's always a physical reason for things to stop working. So unless something burnt out (no sign of it) this thing should still be kicking.

Last month I'm pretty sure my CMOS battery went since my clock reset, but I was running without just fine so long as I had internet. I powered it off one night and then when I tried turning it back on a day or two later - here I am with no display. It powered the fans and stayed on the first few times I tested, but now it just boot loops with a clicking noise. I thought my PSU (EVGA G2) went bad just a year outside of warranty but that powered up an old desktop without issue. Since then I've replaced the CMOS battery, removed it entirely. Then pulled all of the parts, GPU and RAM removal did nothing and now I even pulled it all from the case so I am pretty convinced it's gotta be CPU/mobo. There was at one point a red LED on indicating CPU being an issue but I haven't been able to reproduce, so it's hard to say whether or not it was the mobo failing and giving a false reading or if the CPU is really the problem. No popped caps, scorches, bent pins, anything I can tell.


At this point I may check under the mobo heat sinks to see if any ICs are fried. Or maybe see if I can get a cheap as dirt LGA 1150 to determine if my CPU is fine - that would give me closure so that I'm not just getting rid of good hardware because of potentially a simple fix.

No option of using one of those internal PC speakers to give you ye olde beep codes in case the led indicators are misbehaving?

Your CPU seems to be realllly cheap on ebay.

 

[Myths]

I'm just waiting on the ATX 3.0 PSUs. My PC is on 24/7 so it makes me a little nervous to be a beta tester for ATX 3.0 but I guess I'll have to happen. I just don't trust using existing PSUs with the new GTX cards.

I use the 1650W GF3 from ThermalTake. It's a ATX 3.0 PSU and they generously include two 600W 12VHPWR cables. It also has two 12VHPWR ports. No need for those ridiculous 3 8 pin to this or that clutter. One cable and done.





I should be good for a long time with that powerhouse of wattage.

 

[PhoenixTank]

Micron outs 24GB and 48GB DDR5 modules but your games don't care

Increased capacity not relevant for gaming, for now...

www.pcgamer.com

24GB DDR5 sticks!

 

[Myths]

http://[URL]https://www.pcgamer.com/micron-outs-24gb-and-48gb-ddr5-modules-but-your-games-dont-care/

[/URL]

24GB DDR5 sticks!

If we weren't moving so rapidly in tech, it would be worth it. Before you know it, when DDR6 16GB sticks drop they'll probably be the better option to settle with.

 

[winjer]

Just a curiosity, these are the numbers for GPU sales at Mindfactory, one of the biggest German retailers.

 

[Doctor Hades]

I originally planned to upgrade (i.e. replace) my ageing i7-4770K system with 16 GB of DDR3 1600 memory about 3 years ago but then COVID arrived along along with ridiculous pricing for GPUs, thanks to scummy scalpers, and I decided to delay it. I was already planning to buy a PS5 at launch so I figured that would tide me over in the meantime (which is did for about 2 years) and at least I got that for its MSRP from Amazon (I was lucky enough to be able to pre-order one straight after the Sony announcement).

Last summer, I finally got hold of an RTX 3080 for near its MRSP (£749), again from Amazon, and although it did allow me to finally use DLSS and ray-tracing in games, it was clearly being held back by the nearly 10 year-old CPU at that point. With the release of PS4 and PS5 games on PC, more and more games were struggling to hold 60 fps at 1440p so I decided to buy a pre-built PC with an Intel i5-13600KF from PCSpecialist in December last year minus the graphics card as I could just use the already decent RTX 3080. It cost me around £2,500 in total (not including the cost of the GPU) but that was because I opted for an all-SSD build for games with the two hard drives from my old system, 10 GB in total, being used for data storage and for older games that do not benefit or need the faster SSD speeds. I got a motherboard with 4 NVMe Gen 4 slots and all of them have 2 TB drives attached plus internal and external SATA3 SSDs to give me around 20 TB of fast storage for games (7.5 TB of which is DirectStorage compatible).

The PC, which comes with Windows 11 Pro and 32 GB of DDR4 3600 memory, has been an absolute dream to use. Most of my games now run at a locked 120 fps maxed out at 1440p, even with ray-tracing (using DLSS) enabled. There are a few games such as Cyberpunk 2077 and The Callisto Protocol that push the system hard but I can honestly say that the vast majority of games run so much better now than I could ever have imagined. The truth is that if I had upgraded my PC, say, 5 years ago I don't think the impact of the upgrade would have been quite so striking. I mean I would have been stuck with my old 1080 Ti and most games at that time were made with the PS4/Xbox One in mind so did not require anything more powerful. I believe this is why my old system lasted so long. However, I am glad I upgraded now and the process of moving stuff over to my new PC was a lot more seamless than it was 10 years ago when I built my then-new i7-4770K system and had to install games from discs and so on. Most of my games are on Steam and that only required me to move the games from the hard drives from my old system to the new internal NVMe drives or add the ones from the external SSDs to the Steam libraries and I was good to go. Previously, I had always been put off my all the hassle I had when upgrading my PC with cloud storage and Steam that is no longer a concern.

Finally, I will add that my PC upgrades are never really motivated by the need to have a faster CPU (although it is certainly very beneficial if your old one is 10 years old!) as I actually think that is the least exciting part of any new PC build, at least based on my experience of over 30 years of using PCs. What makes a new PC build worthwhile is having access to newer technologies such as faster storage (NVMe M.2 drives) and forthcoming features like DirectStorage plus faster PCI-e 5 slots for future graphics card. However, I will say that with the current pricing of high-end GPUs by NVIDIA being pushed to ludicrous extremes that I fear this may be the last PC I buy. I bought my 1080 Ti for £700 and my RTX 3080 for £749 but the RTX 4080 is almost twice the price and, while faster, does not offer anywhere near the same value for money as the other two cards.

 

[Ev1L AuRoN]

My PC is showing his age quite a bit. Currently, I own:
Ryzen 5 3600XT
32Gb DDR 3200
RTX 2060 6Gb
2xNVME 1tb drives
Good case and peripherals.

I'll be upgrading my rig in June, right now I'm considering a 5700x/rtx3060ti combo, so I can stick with most of my PC, mobo, ram, case, etc etc. I'm hopefully that by the time I start buying the parts, the 4060 is already out. I really want DLSS3.0, but the 4070ti is way overpriced. AMD have great raster performance but I really like RT and DLSS so they aren't there for me yet.

 

[64gigabyteram]

My PC is showing his age quite a bit. Currently, I own:
Ryzen 5 3600XT
32Gb DDR 3200
RTX 2060 6Gb
2xNVME 1tb drives
Good case and peripherals.

I'll be upgrading my rig in June, right now I'm considering a 5700x/rtx3060ti combo, so I can stick with most of my PC, mobo, ram, case, etc etc. I'm hopefully that by the time I start buying the parts, the 4060 is already out. I really want DLSS3.0, but the 4070ti is way overpriced. AMD have great raster performance but I really like RT and DLSS so they aren't there for me yet.

your ram and storage are good
definitely upgrade the CPU, you can easily go for a 5800x3d (beauty of being on AM5 ) assuming you have the cooling and power to make it work

 

[LavitzSlambert]

No option of using one of those internal PC speakers to give you ye olde beep codes in case the led indicators are misbehaving?

Your CPU seems to be realllly cheap on ebay.

I have one hooked up, sadly no beeps. Just the PSU relay clicking on and fan spinning up for 2 seconds, followed by another click of it turning off, then back on & repeat forever. The only way the fans run for more than a couple seconds is if I remove the EPS12V cable to the CPU.


And yes you are right! Cheap as hell. If I was certain it was just the CPU I'd have another by now, but the mobo is a bigger problem. Mine is extremely expensive now for the exact one, and changing it up would defeat the purpose of saving myself a reinstall. My best bet is to test with a good mobo since a bad mobo can kill a CPU, but a bad CPU won't kill a mobo.

 

[Ev1L AuRoN]

your ram and storage are good
definitely upgrade the CPU, you can easily go for a 5800x3d (beauty of being on AM5 ) assuming you have the cooling and power to make it work

Yeah, I have an AIO 240mm from Coolermaster and my PSU can handle any mid-range GPU. I'll consider the 5800X3D, but my focus is on the GPU, I don't have a lot of money for an upgrade, saving my current parts will help me a lot. The 3600XT is okay for 60fps in most cases, but really struggle when I want high fps, or when I play more demanding games that have RT like spider-man and cyberpunk. I have a 144hz monitor and the CPU can't keep up with it.

 

[64gigabyteram]

The 3600XT is okay for 60fps in most cases, but really struggle when I want high fps, or when I play more demanding games that have RT like spider-man and cyberpunk. I have a 144hz monitor and the CPU can't keep up with it.

upgrading the GPU will not do much when you've got such a bottleneck with your CPU. Stutters will happen and they will be frequent. At the very least consider getting a 5600x.

 

[Ev1L AuRoN]

upgrading the GPU will not do much when you've got such a bottleneck with your CPU. Stutters will happen and they will be frequent. At the very least consider getting a 5600x.

Sure I fully intend to upgrade the CPU, I'm just saying that I'll focus on the GPU more, meaning, maybe I have to take a minor upgrade such as the 5600/5700x. The 3600XT have to go.

 

[JohnnyFootball]

I recently traded my Z690/12700K/DDR4 platform for a Ryzen 7000 series with DDR5. I took advantage of Microcenter offering DDR5 for free with each Ryzen 7000 system

After undervolting it with really good success, its become a fairly solid system. However, I do get quite annoyed at how it will randomly not boot. Despite that I do feel comfortable recommending a Ryzen 7000 system now IF you live near a Microcenter and can take advantage of them offering free DDR5 modules. Otherwise, I'd consider the 13700K.

 

[JohnnyFootball]

upgrading the GPU will not do much when you've got such a bottleneck with your CPU. Stutters will happen and they will be frequent. At the very least consider getting a 5600x.

Yeah, get a 5600X. They're dirt cheap, but I'd say get a 5700X would be even better.