Is there a guide to raw denim? I was gonna cop a black pair, but I don't know what any of this shit means? Crotch blowout? Fade? After how many washes does the fade kick in? How often do you wash barring a spill/stain?
I was gonna buy the Gustin black ones in a few weeks probably.
Warning: Incoming long raw denim post.
Raw denim is how all jeans were made back in the 40s and 50s. The stiff/thick/uncomfortable characteristic of most raw denim was the standard for that era. Eventually, America started pre-washing and distressing jeans because they were more comfortable that way, but by doing so, you're actually taking years off the jeans' life. Think about raw denim the same way you'd break in a pair of boots or a baseball glove. It'll be uncomfortable at the start (most likely), but after a few weeks in, and certainly a few months, they'll probably be the most comfortable jeans you own.
Denim will fade as the dye (typically indigo) strips off from wear. Creases, abrasions, scuffs, basically anything or anywhere that creates tension with the fabric, will lose it's color, thus creating the "fade." Black denim notoriously doesn't fade nearly as fast, so that's something to keep in mind if you're looking to get something faded out. I have a pair of black Naked & Famous that I've been working on for 4 years. It took about 2 to get where they'd be considered "faded out."
Eventually, you'll wear the jeans to the point that they'll need to be repaired. The crotch is typically the first thing to go, since, if you're getting your jeans on the tighter side, that's where a lot of tension is placed. Once a hole starts forming, you can get it fixed by anyone with a darning machine (Self Edge LA, Railcar Fine Goods, etc.).
You'll definitely want to wash your jeans at some point, don't buy into the myth. I see guys who don't wash their jeans for 4 years, and guys who wash their jeans every 2 weeks. There's not much of a difference in the finished product other than the fact that one smells drastically better. The idea behind not washing your denim is that, the creases/scuffs will become more defined, so that when you do finally wash them, the indigo loss in those areas will be more extreme, creating higher contrast fades. I'll admit, there is
some truth to this, but ultimately, I don't think it's worth wearing around a pair of smelly pants for years just for the "fades." With that said, unless you're working construction, or at a coffee shop, or somewhere that you'd sweat a lot, you should be able to get at least 6-12 months out of your jeans without washing them. You'd be surprised how well raw denim holds up, smell wise. When you do finally wash them, do cold water, inside out, and hang dry. Always stay away from heat and/or the dryer.
Hope that helps. Raw denim is one of the rare things in fashion that is both highly fashionable and functional at the same time. Definitely a great investment.