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Miniature Gaming-Age (WH40k, Warmachine, Etc.)

There are still some casting issues with finecast, mostly incomplete models, air bubbles, and loss of detail. They're getting better, but if you buy from a shop always check the figs before walking out the door.

Yea, I think whatever method they came up with for mass production of finecast, just is still messy as heck. No other mini company is having these issues with their resin production. GW is going larger scale than others obviously and stuff is just not up to snuff with the slower careful processes used by others.
 
I've always wanted to learn how to paint minis ever since I owned the original Space Hulk back in the day. I bought the new Space Hulk when it was released but it sat around unpainted. I finally resolved to get it done. Watched a bunch of Youtube videos and read a lot and finally dove in.

WTF?! You must have godly skills if you managed to paint it like that without prior experience! Any chance you could link to the tutorials?

I always wanted to get into painting miniatures, but not playing. Any other cheap alternatives just for that? Should I simply try and buy some old Warhammer models? Or should i look for some figurines from Japan? Any good online resources?
 
WTF?! You must have godly skills if you managed to paint it like that without prior experience! Any chance you could link to the tutorials?

I always wanted to get into painting miniatures, but not playing. Any other cheap alternatives just for that? Should I simply try and buy some old Warhammer models?

Buy whatever you want. The hobby gets expensive mainly because people having to play a game and buying up figs to make armies with. If you just want to get into it for hobby reasons, it's fairly cheap especially with no pressure of wanting to paint stuff to get an army done for tabletop play. You just paint and build at your own pace.
 

nicoga3000

Saint Nic
WTF?! You must have godly skills if you managed to paint it like that without prior experience! Any chance you could link to the tutorials?

I always wanted to get into painting miniatures, but not playing. Any other cheap alternatives just for that? Should I simply try and buy some old Warhammer models? Or should i look for some figurines from Japan? Any good online resources?

OK, as someone who jumped head first into the hobby about 3 years ago (after a hiatus), I'll give you my thoughts.

Paints

Everyone has their own opinion on this. I love Vallejo because of the range of colors they offer. I also like the drip bottles. They also have some wonderful pigmentation but require a good shaking before use. P3, Citadel, and even Reaper (I think?) have great lines.

The biggest thing you have to deal with is making sure you water the paints down enough. More coats = better for display.

Brushes

Buy a GOOD brush up front. Compared to most hobbies, getting one of the better/best brushes won't cost you an arm and a leg. Maybe $15-20 depending, but it makes a world of difference. I'll have to look up the ones I used for some my projects, but I can't stress it enough...Quality brushes are expensive. When you pay $3 for a brush, you're going to get a pretty shitty product.

Minis

Buying anything that's used in a game is going to be WAY too expensive to be a smart way to accrue minis. I've gone to the past two Gen Cons and come out with TONS of minis. I mean, for $50, I probably walked out with 10-15 quality minis to paint. Some more expensive than others, of course...But you can find places doing deals like, "Buy 2 get 1 free" on generic fantasy minis (ranging from elves with bows to orcs in armor on a horse). It's pretty great.

CMON has a great store, but I wouldn't suggest them to someone brand new. Some of the minis they sell are a bit pricey and not suited for beginners. Some of the things they sell are DEFINITELY ones to look out for if you delve deeper into the hobby, though.

Reaper sells some great minis for any skill level. They are doing that Kickstarter that basically overloads you with generic minis. They also sell some really fun bundles on their website that give you a good range of minis to play with.

What's MOST important, though, is to find a mini you WANT to paint. I have tried to paint some boring "dude with sword" minis before, and I have NO interest in it. Finding a theme you enjoy will make your life easier. What's also nice is that the metal/pewter minis are really easy to strip and repaint. Simple Green = magic. Plastic doesn't strip very easily (I've never had success to be honest), and I've never tried resin either.

I don't know if this was AT ALL helpful, but I'd be happy to give you my thoughts and insight on the subject in more detail later. I've not painted a figure in quite some time, but I will say, it's a LOT of fun once you decide to commit to it.

As for learning how to paint and tutorials and such, I'll look around and see if I can find some of the stuff I had. Miniature Mentor put out a FANTASTIC video series that I bought a while back. It was like $50 for a subscription, and I just downloaded all of their videos and cancelled the sub (totally legit by their terms and conditions, haha). They did a LOT of advanced painting, but they did it all on camera, step-by-step, with the painter talking about what he's doing and why he's doing it. It's like a masterclass you can watch over and over and over...

Without buying anything, I can tell you that the most important part of painting for hobby is to take your time, paint something you enjoy, and remember LAYERS. Thinner paint takes longer to get to your finished product, but looks SO much better (and is easier to fix if you make a mistake).

I could really go on and on on this stuff, but ya know...Work...Haha
 
I don't know if this was AT ALL helpful, but I'd be happy to give you my thoughts and insight on the subject in more detail later.

Thanks, your post is extremely helpful. I actually painted some Warhammer miniatures, but that was 15 years ago. Would any of the Citadel starter sets be good to just abuse the models and try to get at least one done great?

http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?prodId=prod1490029a

http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?prodId=prod1490031a

Also, you mentioned Miniature Mentor, I will look into it. How about GW book on painting miniatures?

http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?prodId=prod1490017a
 
http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/edge_news.asp?eidn=3470

You just got to get lucky finding the metals, lot of the LOTR stuff was pretty much discontinued for a while with most shops not stocking any new stuff for a couple years outside of perhaps some GW stores. But most figs that went to finecast done so because they had stopped production a while back so the metal stuff is quite rare.

The resin figs though are supposed to better quality and sharper than the metals. Resin has become the go to material for many mini producers because it makes for sharper quality figs and it's cheapest material to work with. The only negative with resin has been that it takes longer to make the figures unlike the quicker metal and plastic methods. Metal has become too expensive for most smaller companies..... but unlike most GW's resin fig prices mostly went up..... which makes little sense.

Interesting that a lot was discontinued/became hard to find. Though given a lack of new releases and the limbo status of the Hobbit films for many years it is no wonder LOTR died off in terms of store availability, and I guess player count. I'm just glad I don't live in the US- the LOTR Ebay section is tiny by comparison to its UK equivalent. I'll definitely have to make another GW order for some of the rarest metals though, since often prices almost reach that of a new blister pack, and would still require paint stripping.

I'm not convinced by FC at all. I have no major issue with resin, having purchased a fair number of bits from Forge World, but I don't see it as a valid alternative to the current metal ranges. Resin often has massive issues with warping, air bubbles, brittleness, and is hard to strip of paint. I've seen a lot of posts on Warseer- a fair number of models need some massive cleaning up and fixing with green stuff, something I really don't want to do. Not sure I'll bother with the Hobbit stuff because of it.

Regarding FC prices, I think two things have happened. It firstly gives GW the chance to increase prices, using the 'repackaging' excuse (Berserkers now come in packs of 4, not 3, but double the price). Also, GW have apparently said the cost increase is also down to resin production being much more labour intensive, due to needing to keep a tight lid on quality control. However the material cost in the long run will stay flat, and labour costs might fall as they improve methods/experience. Either way, FC and the repackaging of the LOTR plastic kits (in effect doubling prices) have turned the game from one of the most accessible and cheapest by far into something no different from 40k/WH. Such a shame. And no more Battle Games in Middle Earth type series either.

Finally- what the hell happened the to GW site? All the articles for LOTR have been removed? That and the closure of the big LOTR websites makes me a sad Gandalf.

Edit: @Castor Krieg, if you are looking at getting older used models off Ebay, you can strip them very easily. Metals can be stripped with acetone free nail polish remover, and both metals and plastics can be safely stripped by Dettol in the UK and I think its called Simple Green in the US.
 
When I recommitted to the mini painting hobby last year, it was about a 1k investment up front.

That included off the top of my head:

Spray primers - Black, White, Grey

Primers - matte and gloss (also have a paint on gloss)

150+ Paints - Americana hobby paint on sale 2 for 1.00 at Hobby Lobby - I water down all paints so much that consistency is not an issue for me. Good coverage, and cheap. I also do not have to mix my paints for highlights nearly as much because I have at least 10+ shades of red/blue/green/purple, ect.

Washes/Glazes - around 25 from Secret Weapon and around a dozen from Games Workshop (as a rule of thimb, washes change huges)

Inks - I make my own from India inks (inks have high pigment and sink into crevices but can also work as a glaze and a wash at the same time depending on the application)

Tamiya clear paints (around 8-10) - priceless and the effects cannot be replicated

Large assortment of colored chalks (around 50) for creating pigments

An assortment of .001 pens in various colors

Brushes - 2 expensive ones and a couple of bags of various sizes from a hobby shop (ie: basically disposable)

MinWax Wood Stain - Ebony

Army Painter Dip - All 3 shades

Various glues - from white tacky to a selection of plastic and metal glues of various consistency. I'll also throw epoxy mixtures in this category

Magnifying Light

Vice

Airbrush kit

Pin Vice & bits, Saws, Miter Box, pins

Exacto knife + blades

Paint tray for mixing paints and extra, empty paint pots for custom colors

Green stuff, both solid and the new liquid, milliput

Dental Tools for sculpting green stuff gaps and such

Tamiya micro masking tape of various sizes

Pliers, clippers, and a wide assortment of files

Various bottles for water and other mixtures

Basing Materials - Various flocks and ground covers (around 25 total), static grass in various sizes/thickness/colors, and a wide assortment of misc materials from cake decorations to cheap Halloween items. Resin water kits, ice kits, and several experimental substances that will (hopefully) produce various effects when used



Having said all that, the bare minimum to start painting minis is less than 50$. Grab a dozen-ish paints, a miniature, a bag of fine tipped brushes, and a can of primer and you're good to go. You can base the mini with things you have around the house using tacky glue. Read a couple of online tutorials and you're on your way. The basics are quite simple really. It is easy to achieve a good looking model by sparingly using a variety of simple techniques like dry brushing and highlighting.
 

nicoga3000

Saint Nic
@SillyEskimo - You don't need much of what you mentioned to be successful. There's a Miniature Mentor video (MM) that paints a complete mini using like, 3 colors and blending. It's incredible...Yet quite advanced, haha.

Some paints, primer, brushes, and some basic assembly tools will do it. Probably ~$50-75 like you suggested to start.

@Castor Krieg - The book is pretty cool. I have a copy of it and it gives some interesting tips. I'd get the MM videos before that, though - MUUUUCH more quality and quantity over that book.
 
@SillyEskimo - You don't need much of what you mentioned to be successful. There's a Miniature Mentor video (MM) that paints a complete mini using like, 3 colors and blending. It's incredible...Yet quite advanced, haha.

You could also build a house with just a handful of tools. However, having more tools in the toolbox allows for significantly more creative options and certian items are required if you want a particular effect. For example, three colors of paint is not going to create mud on tank treads, translucent water, snow, ice, ect.

Generally, my supplies give me more options and also makes the hobby easier in a wide variety of ways (airbrush!). If you want to push the hobby, virtually everything I mentioned above is required. I would wager that every Golden Demon Award winner from the past decade has everything I mentioned above at a bare minimum!

But for just starting? Simple supplies and a simple miniature are all you need. As you grow in the hobby, so does the scope and scale of your projects. You need the right tools for the job! The amount of supplies you have will generally coinside with a your desire to stretch your boundries within the hobby.
 

nicoga3000

Saint Nic
You could also build a house with just a handful of tools. However, having more tools in the toolbox allows for significantly more creative options and certian items are required if you want a particular effect. For example, three colors of paint is not going to create mud on tank treads, translucent water, snow, ice, ect.

Generally, my supplies give me more options and also makes the hobby easier in a wide variety of ways (airbrush!). If you want to push the hobby, virtually everything I mentioned above is required. I would wager that every Golden Demon Award winner from the past decade has everything I mentioned above at a bare minimum!

But for just starting? Simple supplies and a simple miniature are all you need. As you grow in the hobby, so does the scope and scale of your projects. You need the right tools for the job! The amount of supplies you have will generally coinside with a your desire to stretch your boundries within the hobby.

Yeah, that's true. I was thinking more "introduction" whereas you were thinking more "long term". Both are important, especially if you start to really enjoy the hobby. I know I started out skimping on brushes, and I really really regret it. Buying my nice W&N Series 7 Kolinsky Sable brush changed me. :)

Airbrush is great for large areas and base coats. I wish I had one when I played 40k and had to paint Hammerheads for my Tau army.
 
Yeah, that's true. I was thinking more "introduction" whereas you were thinking more "long term". Both are important, especially if you start to really enjoy the hobby. I know I started out skimping on brushes, and I really really regret it. Buying my nice W&N Series 7 Kolinsky Sable brush changed me. :)

Airbrush is great for large areas and base coats. I wish I had one when I played 40k and had to paint Hammerheads for my Tau army.

I utterly recommend these brushes too. I've got four of them, and they are absolutely fantastic. Still have their points, hold paint well, and haven't rotted away like cheaper brushes.
 

Risible

Member
WTF?! You must have godly skills if you managed to paint it like that without prior experience! Any chance you could link to the tutorials?

I always wanted to get into painting miniatures, but not playing. Any other cheap alternatives just for that? Should I simply try and buy some old Warhammer models? Or should i look for some figurines from Japan? Any good online resources?

<blush> Thanks. To be honest, they're nowhere as good as say DiatribEQ's Orks on the previous page. They are pretty decent though, for someone new to the hobby.

The most important things for me starting out:

  • Thin your paints down. This guy says they should be about the consistency of 2% milk, and that seemed about right. Straight out of the pot/bottle the paints are too thick and will completely cover the fine detail of the models.
  • Get some kind of magnifying device - this visor is only $7 on Amazon and works like a charm. The models are tiny and the details tinier still - that visor allowed me to pick out the details that there was no way to see with the naked eye. It also allowed me to keep my hands free. Terrific investment.
  • Cheap, good primer. Short blast from a far distance (like at least 2 feet away) to ensure you don't cover detail on the model. Go to your local hardware store and ask for paint stirrer sticks, they'll most likely give them to you for free. Tack 3 or 4 models onto a stick with something like Elmer's Poster Tack (resuable) and you can easily prime a bunch of figures without making a mess.
  • Check out the "dip" method. While you're at the hardware store grab a can of Minwax Wood Finish. I used Special Walnut 224, but it's all preference on how dark you want the shadows to be. The guy in the video uses a brush, but you can just dip the figure in whole and the "shake: the excess off by whatever means you like. Please note that this can get messy, so be sure to cover your work area.
  • Check out the Worthy Painting channel. These guys paint models to sell, and it's a great resource to see what well painted models should look like. It's also very inspirational.

  • [*]These guys will ship you Vallejo paints from the UK fairly cheaply.
    50 droppers for $125 means you're paying about $2.50 a bottle. You get to choose the 50 colors you want. This should keep you in paints for a long time.
  • This guy has a lot of good training videos and is very upbeat.
  • Buy some Pledge Floor Care with Future Shine and make your own washes.
  • You need plenty of good, strong light.
  • I think the most important thing, as corny as it is, is Nike's slogan - just do it.

Hope that helps! If I think of more I'll add onto my post at a later date.
 
Crazy idea:

How about we do a mini contest similar to the Lego MOC thread? We all choose a single mini, paint it, and post it. Does anyone else think this sounds like fun?
 

Risible

Member
Crazy idea:

How about we do a mini contest similar to the Lego MOC thread? We all choose a single mini, paint it, and post it. Does anyone else think this sounds like fun?

I'm nowhere near good enough, but I'd love to see what you guys produce!
 

oktarb

Member

oktarb

Member
Crazy idea:

How about we do a mini contest similar to the Lego MOC thread? We all choose a single mini, paint it, and post it. Does anyone else think this sounds like fun?

I like that idea. Have a couple of categories so we can inspire new painters as well. The Golden GAF Award :D
 

nicoga3000

Saint Nic
There's are a ton of free youtube videos out there but if you want a HD tutorials and have spare duckets to toss around try http://www.miniaturementor.com/index.html

Not for the faint of wallet but the quality is very good and the talent they have is superb.

I think my greatest ally since getting back into the hobby is my wet palette. I bought this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00176H46E/?tag=neogaf0e-20 its a little bigger than I thought but once you find a spot for it it really helps.

Wet palettes are great, but definitely not for everyone. I tried so hard to use one in multiple situations. I've never found it to work out like I hoped - the paint becomes TOO thin for me.

E: I suggested MM earlier. The subscription is VERY worth the price since you can just DL all the videos and cancel. Or keep it. At $70, you get SO many incredible well done tutorials. It's not just, "Paint this and this and this." It's actually showing individual brush strokes and explaining EVERY stroke and why they are doing it. It's really the best resource out there to go from beginner to advanced VERY quickly.
 

oktarb

Member
Wet palettes are great, but definitely not for everyone. I tried so hard to use one in multiple situations. I've never found it to work out like I hoped - the paint becomes TOO thin for me.

E: I suggested MM earlier. The subscription is VERY worth the price since you can just DL all the videos and cancel. Or keep it. At $70, you get SO many incredible well done tutorials. It's not just, "Paint this and this and this." It's actually showing individual brush strokes and explaining EVERY stroke and why they are doing it. It's really the best resource out there to go from beginner to advanced VERY quickly.

Cool, I hate linking pay sites, glad you like them too. I tend to play them while I paint + a little music get's me into a trance.
 

FreeChicken

Neo Member
Crazy idea:

How about we do a mini contest similar to the Lego MOC thread? We all choose a single mini, paint it, and post it. Does anyone else think this sounds like fun?

I am nowhere near as good as some of you guys but wouldn't mind joining something along these lines to get me painting my minis more often. Honestly I paint like 5 minis a year, its ridiculous how many go unpainted.
 
Yea I'm more of a table top quality painter, look good from a distance while playing, but close... yea not very good myself.

And along with that, been playing lot of Mechwarrior Online beta and it's gotten me on a Battletech kick. Going to invest on some more mechs and stuff and try to organize some games soon, always liked that game.
 

Risible

Member
Wet palettes are great, but definitely not for everyone. I tried so hard to use one in multiple situations. I've never found it to work out like I hoped - the paint becomes TOO thin for me.

E: I suggested MM earlier. The subscription is VERY worth the price since you can just DL all the videos and cancel. Or keep it. At $70, you get SO many incredible well done tutorials. It's not just, "Paint this and this and this." It's actually showing individual brush strokes and explaining EVERY stroke and why they are doing it. It's really the best resource out there to go from beginner to advanced VERY quickly.

r.e. wet palettes - you can make a cheap one using a small closable tupperware container, paper towels, and wax paper. Works like a charm. Put damp paper towels at the bottom of the container and cover them over with wax paper. Use the wax paper as your palette - it wicks enough moisture off the towels to keep the paints moist but not so much that it dilutes the paint. Pop the top on to save paint for the next day.

r.e. Mentor Miniatures - I heard they have a $40 coupon you can sometimes get for the subscription - I'm holding off for that. I tried to get my brother to go halfsies with me but he's too cheap :). Their videos look fantastic.
 

nicoga3000

Saint Nic
r.e. wet palettes - you can make a cheap one using a small closable tupperware container, paper towels, and wax paper. Works like a charm. Put damp paper towels at the bottom of the container and cover them over with wax paper. Use the wax paper as your palette - it wicks enough moisture off the towels to keep the paints moist but not so much that it dilutes the paint. Pop the top on to save paint for the next day.

r.e. Mentor Miniatures - I heard they have a $40 coupon you can sometimes get for the subscription - I'm holding off for that. I tried to get my brother to go halfsies with me but he's too cheap :). Their videos look fantastic.

I actually did my first wet palette like that. I read some tutorials on CMON for ones that people made and went with it. It was OK, but I just couldn't get it right. If I get back into painting, I'll investigate a wet palette again.

MM is just like...Wow. I can't really describe how great they are. The one with the rat dude they show on the front page (with the red cloak) was simply awe inspiring. I learned so much from that video alone. The best part is, it's all hand painted - no air brush, no special tools, ALL brushes + paint.

I would totally paint more if I knew people locally to hang out with and paint with. The only two or three people I ever knew that DID paint near me hang out at the FLGS. Except the owner makes it a not-so-friendly LGS. I can't stand him nor a majority of the people who hang out there. -_-
 
Looking pretty cool - do we have any idea of what the pricing is like?

Individual fighter expansion packs are going to be $15, a little more than Wings of War planes, but you also get tokens, dial, and cards with each fighter in SW.... plus the licensing for the IP likely raises price. Online discounts should keep them affordable.

The base game set is $40 so online it should be about $25-27, which includes 3 fighters and all the needed game components like the special dice.
 

nicoga3000

Saint Nic
CMON painters (and their associated partners) always make me sad.

Ashoka.jpg


I can totally tell you how to paint this, but I could NEVER execute it. This is so sick. Subscribing to CMON on Facebook is one of the few good things that comes out of Facebook for me, haha.
 
New review, haven't done one in a while but this is something that goes along with my renewed mech love thanks to Mechwarrior Online, and also because a new video game was just announce for it!

HEAVY GEAR

7753842494_4dfb864ff5.jpg
7753842336_a3da7ee16e.jpg


What is it?
- Developed by the Canadian company Dream Pod 9, Heavy Gear became pretty well known in the 90's when Activision having issues with the Mechwarrior license, turned to DP9's Heavy Gear universe to replace it. The original game played much like a reskinned Mechwarrior game, but it's sequel was a big change and huge improvement. Sadly we never got more than 2 games in the Heavy Gear universe, but the franchise also did also influence a CG TV series that focused on gladiator style mech arena fighters. But the universe was originally a series of games by DP9, miniature wargames and a roleplaying game series. After the 90's the game line kinda went on hiatus and DP9 faded a bit into obscurity. In the recent years though DP9 has rebuilt itself a bit and relaunched with a new focus on the Heavy Gear franchise with a rerelease under the Heavy Gear Blitz ruleset. While most see the game series as all about mechs, it truly isn't.

7753842582_d96182df88_z.jpg


The rules
- Heavy Gear Blitz: Lock and Loaded is the current version of the newly revamped game system. DP9's games have all focused around a similar system which even is used in their RPG's. The focus of the Silhouette system used by DP9 was basically to use the common method of rolling a dice with a target number usually set by a defenders stat. Modifiers are big aspect of the game as you really often have to pile them on for everything from range, weapon type used, speed of the defender, speed of the attacker, cover/concealment mods, etc. If you prefer more straightforward dice fests, this game might not be for you, as it harkens back to games like Battletech which also loves using plus and minus modifiers to a dice roll. Skill levels determine amount of D6 dice a person rolls but no matter how many you roll, you always take the highest value rolled on one of the dice, while any extra 6's you might roll add +1 to your total. You then take the highest value and toss in all the modifiers and compare it to the target defense value. Now what makes the Silhouette system unique is basically that it's not a hit or miss system, the higher you beat a target number by, the better the results. If you simply meet the target number of an opponent for example, you deal base damage which might simply bounce off or do very light damage to your opponent, but if you beat it by several points, you create a measure of success by which you multiply the damage making your attacks more powerful. Damage values of weapons are presented in multiples such as x8, so if you beat a target number by 3 for example, you would be doing 3x8 damage (24).

Almost everything in HG boils down to this kind of roll system with some situations involving your opponent rolling an opposed value which are then compared. Older versions of the rules had alot more unique game systems but it really slowed the game down so they greatly streamlined most game functions to use the same Silhouette style dice rolling. Unlike Battletech, you do not have highly detailed mech sheets where you have to keep track of things, units in Heavy Gear Blitz have simple abstract states of function such as light, medium, or heavy damage, but no actual hit locations. Ammo is simplified with only tracking done for heavy weapons. Older versions of Heavy Gear did require lots of micromanagement more similar to Battletech style, but with Heavy Gear's streamlining they have gone for more larger scale battles that can be played in a shorter period of time. All units in Heavy Gear also have multiple speed values which a person has to keep track of, as it affects the ability to shoot, and be shot at. You simply can't be having your mech go full out top speed and capable of shooting well, you have to slow down or your going to have lots of negative modifiers to your shot. At the same time, a fast moving target though is harder to hit than a big slow one. So slowing down to attack or stopping for the best shot possible can make you a sitting duck!

As mentioned earlier, the game is not just about mechs though, the universe of Heavy Gear has a wide array of combined arms with infantry, vehicles, artillery, and air support all having very useful purposes and many forces will want to take advantage of the combined arms aspect. Mechs have advantages unique to them, largely in the mobility department, but often enough proper usage of other unit types make up for any shortcomings of something like a slow moving tank. Army construction is also highly unique aspect about the latest version of the game, as you build using what is called Priority levels. The idea is that you choose how important a force you are building is, such as Priority level 1 force being considered something like a basic patrol or garrison force, while a priority level 4 force would be an elite attack force using many special forces units. The concept of the priority level system is that it changes what you can and can't build similar to force charts found in stuff like 40K, but it not only changes army composition, but also your victory conditions. If you make a high priority army, it means it has a very important purpose and because of that you have to achieve extra victory points to win. You may get to take awesome stuff in your force, more elite units than the others, but you have to achieve extra objectives to win. While a lower priority force is something that has simplified goals so they need less objectives to win a game.

Along with the priority build system, before you play depending on the point values and the priority level of your force, each player has to determine the objectives of their force. The rules have a list of different objectives so unlike most games that have premade scenarios, you essentially get a mix of different objectives in a game of Heavy Gear. You might have a set up where you have to kill a specific unit that will give you 2 victory points, along with another objective that you must take and hold a piece of terrain for another victory point, and on top of that you could have another 2-3 objectives that you can go for to score points. Again the higher priority level you used to build your force, the more objectives you will need for a chance at victory.

Further Notes:
- Heavy Gear while greatly streamlined still can be a fairly heavy game, but is one full of tactical diversity and many unique aspects that sets it apart. Game still has a heavy feel to it that your not simply rolling dice and moving off a ton of figs at once, every action you do has so many variables involved that one has to account for. As mentioned in talking about the rules, variables all change modifiers and along with that, the game promotes combined arm actions with units. You don't have to keep a squad of mechs within a certain distance of each other, you can actually surround an enemy for a flanking action that can give bonuses to other squad mates. Combining attacks from multiple sources to the same target can be in your favor, and even at times a squad mate can relay info to help a friendly mech target an enemy. You can have one unit go full out speed in the open to acquire data for a unit behind a hill so it can fire it's indirect missiles or to help a unit see an opponent that it can't get a lock on. I would never recommend this game to a newbie to miniature wargames as it really can be a brain burner with all the tactical options and I've only scratched the surface about the game, so much more. The good thing is, the rules are now available free! http://rpg.drivethrustuff.com/product/97110/Heavy-Gear-Blitz!-Field-Manual---Core-Rulebook-Revised

7753842434_13462fd07e_z.jpg


Pros:
+ Free Rules
+ Wide array of tactical builds and options
+ Well balanced towards combined arm play
+ Great miniatures that just get better and better
+ Lot of common sense put into the rules over abstractions
+ Game has greatly expanded to include many factions now unlike the old game which had basically 2 major factions. Lot more diversity now in play with all the new forces at play.

Cons:
- Expensive. The cost of the figs which are usually around size of normal 28mm figures is pretty high, and DP9 is not a big fan of online retailers who over discount products. Even their starter set prices are not the hottest.
- Heavy rules even though they have been streamlined greatly, will turn off many as games can take quite a while to play out.

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Again if your interested in learning about the game first, the rules have now been made available for free online at DriveThruRpg, download them here: http://rpg.drivethrustuff.com/product/97110/Heavy-Gear-Blitz!-Field-Manual---Core-Rulebook-Revised

A companion game has also been put out called Heavy Gear Blitz: Arena which lets you use many of the mech figs to play out arena style games as seen in the old 90's CG television show.

Want to learn more then hit up Dream Pod 9's official website at: www.dp9.com
 

Saiyar

Unconfirmed Member
The Games-Workshop's release list for the foreseeable future has been leaked. Lots of Hobbit stuff and new units for almost every 40k army.
 

nicoga3000

Saint Nic
I hate the fact that I'm thinking of going shopping for new paints and materials tonight. I don't need another hobby [again]! :p
 
It looks like Genestealer cults are coming back! And look at all that terrain! And Tarellian Dog soldiers! Looks like the rumored ally book is true!

I just hope New Line doesn't ream GW and by extension us...

Would it be okay to post the list here?
 
May as well, it's up on so many other places already (edit: the hobbit related stuff is already up in the hobbit thread). Complete lack of fantasy releases on the list is odd as is the way the list appeared. Got to say I'm pretty skeptical about it but I hope it's real.
 

Saiyar

Unconfirmed Member
It looks like Genestealer cults are coming back! And look at all that terrain! And Tarellian Dog soldiers! Looks like the rumored ally book is true!

I just hope New Line doesn't ream GW and by extension us...

Would it be okay to post the list here?

The list seems to give us the next four books after Chaos/Dark Angels. Eldar, Marines, Orks and Allies. This looks like it could cover the entire 40k release list up to summer 2015.
 
Here's the 40K stuff:
Games Workshop release plan*

releases have the Len_A/B/C 2 cc affixes unless stated otherwise, for detailed code, see the link below

200x range
Space Marine Scouts with Astartes Grenade Launchers Plastic- box (infantry size)
Space Marine Astartes Battle Fortress Defence Wall Plastic- box (land raider size)
Space Marine Astartes Battle Fortress Tower / Pillar of Heroes Plastic- box (land raider size)
Space Marine Astartes Battle Fortress Monastery Plastic- box (oversize)
Space Marine Neophytes Plastic- box (infantry size)
Space Marine Techmarine with Artificer Squad Plastic- box (infantry size)
Space Marine Space Marine Tactical Squad Plastic- box (infantry size)
Space Marine Bike Squadron / Crusader Bike Squadron Plastic- box (bike squadron size)
Space Marine Land Raider Medusa Plastic- box (land raider size)
Space Marine Skyshatter Cannon Finecast- box (07 size)
Space Marine Gale Claw Supremacy Fighter Plastic- box (bike squadron size)
Space Marine Sword Brethren / Nightflame Veteran Squad Plastic- box (infantry size)
Space Marine Praetor Warmachine Plastic- box (land raider size)
Space Marine Librarian with Jump Pack Finecast- clamshell
Space Marine Terminator First Hand Finecast- clamshell
Space Marine Defender Upgrade Pack Finecast- box (a10 size) - divergent affixes: XianD; li
Space Marine Bionics Upgrade Pack Finecast- box (a10 size) - divergent affixes: XianD; li
Space Marine Land Avenger Plastic- box (land raider size)
Space Marine Land Avenger Vulkan / Land Avenger Invictus Plastic- box (land raider size)
Iron Father Maalthun Finecast- clamshell
Chapter Master Tu&#8217;Shan Finecast- clamshell
Space Marine Librarian Epistolary Finecast- clamshell
Paladin Marshall Sieghelm Finecast- clamshell
Severus Agemman, Regent of Ultramar Finecast- clamshell
Helveticus the Ancient, Bearer of Honour Finecast- clamshell

201x range
Ork Warbuggy / Deff Racer Plastic- box (buggy size)
Ork Deff Koptas Plastic- box (bike squadron size)
Ork Gun Fortress / Mega Tellyporta Plastic- box (land raider size)
Ork Meganobz / Painboy Cyborks Plastic- box (infantry size)
Ork Flying Fortress / Rokk Launcha Plastic- box (land raider size)
Ork Wartrakk Skorcha / Flakk Trakk Plastic- box (buggy size)
Ork Big Guns / Pulsa Launchas Plastic- box (bike squadron size)
Ork Flash Gitz / Tellyporta Nobz Plastic- box (infantry size)
Ork Klan Fort Plastic- box (land raider size)
Ork Boar Squigs Finecast- box (07 size)
Ork Squiggotaur Finecast- box (09 size) - divergent affixes: mf
Ork Warphead Finecast- clamshell
Ork Painboy with Cleava Harness Finecast- clamshell
Ork Grot Nurses Finecast- clamshell
Wazzdakka Gutsmek Finecast- clamshell
Gorbuzz ThreeEye Finecast- clamshell
Gritlegg Maksmesh Finecast- clamshell
Boss-Kommissa Grotzki Finecast- clamshell

202x range
Imperial Guard Storm Troopers / Iron Cloak Veterans Plastic- box (infantry size) - divergent affixes: 11
Imperial Guard Hydra Plastic- box (rhino size) - divergent affixes: 11

206x range
Chaos Bike Squadron Plastic- box (bike squadron size) - divergent affixes: 3
Chaos Thousand Sons Plastic- box (infantry size) - divergent affixes: 3
Chaos Noise Marines Plastic- box (infantry size) - divergent affixes: 3

208x range
The Avatar of Khaine Finecast- box (09 size) - divergent affixes: 11
Eldar Lamia Strike Fighter / Moon Siren Bomber Plastic- box (land raider size)
Eldar Eldritch Raiders Plastic- box (infantry size)
Eldar Webway Gate Plastic- box (land raider size)
Eldar Phoenix Lord Nuadhu, The Fireheart / Alean Vyper Plastic- box (buggy size)
Eldar Spirit Warrior Plastic- box (land raider size)
Eldar Jetbikes Plastic- box (bike squadron size)
Eldar Dragon Riders Plastic- box (bike squadron size)
Eldar Wraithguard / Cataphracts Plastic- box (infantry size)
Eldar Sky Chariots / Shining Spears Plastic- box (bike squadron size)
Eldar Warpspiders / Everguard Plastic- box (infantry size)
Eldar Black Warden Finecast- clamshell
Eldar Fire Dragon Xentarch Finecast- clamshell
Eldar Dire Avenger Xentarch Finecast- clamshell
Eldar Howling Banshee Xentarch Finecast- clamshell
Eldar Striking Scorpion Xentarch Finecast- clamshell
The Avatar of the Young King Finecast- clamshell
Eldar Warlock with Force Staff Finecast- clamshell
Eldar Swooping Hawks Finecast- box (09 size)
Phoenix Lord Kyme'doc, The Planetwister Finecast- clamshell - divergent affixes: XianD; 4

227x range
Dark Eldar Grotesque Squad Finecast- box (09 size) - divergent affixes: 11

256x range
Tau Empire Nautilus Defence Platform Plastic- box (land raider size) - divergent affixes: 3
Commander Farsight Finecast- box (07 size) - divergent affixes: 3
Tau Empire Mako Plastic- box (rhino size) - divergent affixes: 3
Tau Empire Vespid Stingwings / Vespid Spinewings Plastic- box (infantry size) - divergent affixes: 3

271x range
Bloodthirster Plastic- box (rhino size) - divergent affixes: 3; 186080111840398
Lord of Change Plastic- box (rhino size) - divergent affixes: 3;186080211840397
Chaos Daemons Warp Stalkers / Chaos Furies Plastic- box (infantry size) - divergent affixes: 3;186080311440398
Great Unclean One Plastic- box (rhino size) - divergent affixes: 3;186083311840397
Keeper of Secrets Plastic- box (rhino size) - divergent affixes: 3; 186083411840396

28xx range
Sisters of Battle Battle Sisters Plastic- box (infantry size)
Sisters of Battle Seraphim / Patronica Squad Plastic- box (infantry size)
Sisters of Battle Repentia Squad Finecast- box (07 size)
Sisters of Battle Exorcist / Catafalque of Sins Plastic- box (rhino size)
Sisters of Battle Sister Superior Magdalenia Finecast- clamshell
Sisters of Battle Canoness with Power Axe Finecast- clamshell
Sisters of Battle Prioress Lazarea Verata Finecast- clamshell
Imperial Agents Enforcer with Heavy Stubber Finecast- clamshell
Imperial Agents Obsideo Assassin Finecast- clamshell
Imperial Agents Deathwatch Kill Team Plastic- box (infantry size)
Imperial Agents Deathwatch Librarian Finecast- clamshell
Mechanicus Battle-Servitors / Khorne Caedes Engines Plastic- box (infantry size)
Cabal Tarellian Cotor with Dragontongue Finecast- box (07 size)
Cabal Alpha Psyker Finecast- clamshell
Kroot Kroothawks Finecast- clamshell
Cypher Finecast- clamshell
Cult Hybrid Upgrade Pack Plastic- box (a10 size) - divergent affixes: XianD
Patriarch Dumas, The Veiled Fiend Finecast- clamshell
Freebooters Ogreen Kaptain Finecast- clamshell
Harlequin Solitaire Finecast- clamshell

Note: does not contain re-releases, non-miniature products or the miniature range with codes below 2xxx
Note: contains only boxes that are currently NOT in mass production, expect release beginning in june 2013 at the earliest, the bulk of the releases for the first movie are done by then

Full list including Hobbit releases is here: http://pastebin.com/9EC3qw3b

Plastic Greater Daemons, oh my! :D
 
Got my Warmachine 2p Battle Box assembled. My fingers hurt from squeezing every last dab of loctite gel out of the bottle that I could. Going to let them set for a bit, then prime them. First time painting.
 
Got my Warmachine 2p Battle Box assembled. My fingers hurt from squeezing every last dab of loctite gel out of the bottle that I could. Going to let them set for a bit, then prime them. First time painting.

Enjoy it! Just keep your paints thinned slightly, it will really help!

Just made an order of LOTR metals from Games Workshop- Rangers of the North, Dunedain, Dead Marsh Spectres, and High Elf Captain + Bearer. Gutted that they removed the metal High Elf Spearmen in the past few days for Finecast versions.

The main few things I'll Ebay are those, a few odd characters, Uruk-hai carrying Hobbits, Easterlings, Rohan Royal Guard, Wildmen of Dunland, a few Wood Elf troops, Barrow Wrights, Numenorian Spearmen/Archers. They come up often enough to not worry too much about potential FC releases.

In the long run I want some more plastic troops, and eventually Sauron, a Mumakil, and Treebeard. Again Ebay for all those, they come up very frequently.
 

deim0s

Member

Thanks for the review.

These are Southern forces right? What I recall, (based on the old PC games) there are only two factions yeah? Seems they expanded to four now.

Also, in DRPG there is another rulebook for the minis. So which one, Field Manual or the Lock & Loaded Revised 1.1 which includes two books?



I'll PM you in a bit about the final details on my end. Looking forward to it!

For anyone on the edge about this, MM will change your painting, I promise. It's SO good.

I think I watched the first one at a friends house... the way he thins the paint is sooooo watered down - nearly transparent and builds it with layers. Dries for a few seconds and lays down a layer. It's good if you're working on a GD mini, but for mass production types... heh.

So yeah, worth watching - the things you might pickup and apply (somehow) is so worth it.
 

oktarb

Member
I'm half tempted to go for the $30 basic one. Or possibly the $20 4 part advance tutorials.

I would recommend the $30 'Complete Guide', the first on one the list. It covers a ton. The advanced ones are much more piece meal. I've probably watched the first one 4 or 5 times.
 

nicoga3000

Saint Nic
I actually used to own all the videos via subscription. HD failure caused me to lose all the vids. Boo. But man, you learn SOOOO much. And it's cheap as hell if you do a group sub. *hint*
 
I actually used to own all the videos via subscription. HD failure caused me to lose all the vids. Boo. But man, you learn SOOOO much. And it's cheap as hell if you do a group sub. *hint*

How many are there so far for a group sub?
How would getting access to the downloads work if we only have one login?
 
Thanks for the review.

These are Southern forces right? What I recall, (based on the old PC games) there are only two factions yeah? Seems they expanded to four now.

Also, in DRPG there is another rulebook for the minis. So which one, Field Manual or the Lock & Loaded Revised 1.1 which includes two books?

Yes those are Southern Forces. There are more than four armies now, most of which were around in the fiction in some form but they weren't given much focus in the video games and they have been moving the fluff forward finally also to expand to the other colonies in the universe. You got the North, South, Peace River, CEF (Earth), Port Arthur Korp, Capricians, Utopians, NuCoal, and also leagueless (mercs, badlanders). Some of these forces were talked of in the old fluff but never got miniatures or were anywhere outside of the RPG books, but now are fully playable armies in the table top game.

The rulebook I linked in my review is basically the complete rule set. L&L 1.1 was the original rulebook and then the field manual was released which added some more rules. The link I posted is for the new rulebook that incorporates it all together in one spot. It is confusing how they done it since you got same cover used for the field manual and the newer core rules book. But all a person really need is the one I linked too that has on the bottom of the cover "Field Manual Core Rulebook Revised". They basically made it to be a simple rules only release with alot of improvements to the readability with lots of helpful charts, and they stripped out all the fluff and army lists.

You will want the Lock and Loaded Rulebook v1.1 for the army lists for the main forces as they are not included in the new revised rulebook, the new revised rulebook simply has the new data cards for most of the game units in the new format, but actual army lists are found in the other books.
 

deim0s

Member
@BattleMonkey
Thanks again, BTW all HG minis are metal or they have plastic/resin, same with the starter boxes?

Seems that the FM Core Rulebook is pure rules and the L&L has fluff in it. Will start with the fluff to get a feel of it and find a local FLGS which carries them gears.
 
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