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[krypt0nian]

Their webpage says:


So it sounds like its pretty mixed. I'm a Pub guy not a Club guy so I'm hopeful

Time to bring them the glory of Infinity.


BTW I know the feeling. Having avoided it for this long, the minis game bug has bit me hard. I have watched countless hours of painting and basing turorials, as well as batreps from most of the main games.

I surrender.

 

[BattleMonkey]

Debating on going to Hurricon in Orlando at end of month. Mainly want to go to do the flea market again and try selling off a bunch of gaming stuffs I don't want. Trying to figure out if it will be worth the expenses to go and try to do some sales quick and head back to Miami.

Their webpage says:


So it sounds like its pretty mixed. I'm a Pub guy not a Club guy so I'm hopeful

Yea that's cool. Just saying it looks historical heavy because of the terrain style on the tables and all the flags hanging around. Total historical gaming club looking set up hehe.

Similar group that used to be around here looked like that and they played lots of Wings of War. They had up a fake wing from a biplane which they used as a scoreboard for their seasonal Wings of War league.

 

[Vhalyar]

could you post some before and afters ,would love to see the difference this makes ..i presume its mostly for terrain and vehicles?

Will do. For the most part I'll be using Track Brown on the silver part of my chaos marines, Smoke Black will be for vehicles and the rest is to experiment a bit.

On a related note I've ordered from 4 of the larger miniatures retailers online recently and they all seem to suffer problems with delays! I just don't understand it, it shouldn't take weeks for stuff to arrive when I'm in the same country and they say the stuff I've ordered is in stock!

I suspect they don't accurately display stock levels on their websites, either that or they could do with hiring more people to pack and dispatch items.

I've found that emailing Maelstrom to ask about the status of the order works rather well. Typically they'll offer to split the order if they already have part of it set aside.

 

[bloodydrake]

adventures in learning to paint better mini's continue
had some mixed success trying to do highlighting using layering and drybrushing.

Grells I just tried to do layers of lighter colors..and well they look like crap.

For the Gibbering mouthers I wanted to try using differing colors for base and highlights..it turned out better using drybrushing,it did give it abit to much of a chalky look. So went with puke brown with green highlights,shreaker pink with blue highlights and a greyish blue with purple highlights

for Belax the Beholder I tried combining the two tecniques doing a thin layering then dry brushing to blend in and that seems to be better. After dipping and dull coat the lips and eyebrows and eye stalks still show some highlights. Overall Im pleased with how it turned out specially since its a very small Mini..
I think going forward I'm gonna continue to try and improve using the two blended and see if i can get better with it.

It is weird that my quick shade seems to be looking oily when dry tho..might be I thinned it out to much with varsal.

 

[BattleMonkey]

Quick shade tends to look oily. Why you have to use a matte varnish on it afterwards

 

[bloodydrake]

Quick shade tends to look oily. Why you have to use a matte varnish on it afterwards

if you don't it looks like a glazed donut the dullcoat fixes it
no dullcoat

with dullcoat

 

[BattleMonkey]

Yea I was scared first time I used quickshade, but the dullcoat fixes it right up. Seen an entire skaven army on the table that was dipped. It was shiny as heck as the dude didn't varnish them

 

[piratepwnsninja]

Anyone tried Gesso for priming? Looking for alternatives to spray priming that don't cost a lot and have seen really good results online for Gesso.

 

[Leunam]

Small project for tonight. So the Dark Vengeance box comes with two of every cultist minus the heavies with special weapons and both sergeants. Since I'm mostly using these guys for one of my Necromunda gangs, I decided to do some small conversions, small stuff like autoguns changed to shotguns, etc. This is one of the cultists below:

After deciding that the gang needs some long range support I chopped up some brass rod and plasticard to make this:

I'm going to fill in the gaps on the muzzle with some greenstuff. The muzzle brake was a last second addition and I think it actually looks pretty good. I don't have a picture of the sniper for the opposing gang so I can't really show the contrast but this rifle is much larger and more "brute force" than the precision weapon that the other model has.

 

[BattleMonkey]

Ares posted up prototype pic of their upcoming game Sails of Glory http://www.aresgames.eu/4865

For those who don't know, it's a prepainted game system based on a ruleset similar to Wings of War, but for naval based Napoleonic era warfare.

 

[krypt0nian]

Taking a break for a few weeks from the net to recharge my batteries from all the negativity, but still here for the minis thread, the PnP gaming thread, and maybe the comics thread. Plus tutorial YouTube vids.

I can't quit you, and frankly I'm having too much fun with this hobby to quit learning, and I blame you guys.

 

[Leunam]

Glad to hear you're enjoying it. Please make sure you put up pictures of your work, I'm sure we'd all love to see you progress.

 

[krypt0nian]

Glad to hear you're enjoying it. Please make sure you put up pictures of your work, I'm sure we'd all love to see you progress.

Hey thanks. I wasn't going to post until I got a bit more comfortable but hell why not? I bought a few Reaper Bones figs to help make the wait until the Kickstarter pays of in the Spring so here's my very first fig painted ever.

Be gentle, but any suggestions, tips would be great. I chose to believe Reaper about their Bones line and didn't prime the mini. And truthfully it took paint really well. The key is to not thin your base coats. After than thin away.

This is a basic base coat, black wash for shadows, and dry brush. No attempts at real highlights yet, as I was just focusing on brush control this go round. I'm pretty ok with it considering I'm working with 7 colors (black, white, leather, red, blue, yellow, silver + a black wash), and mixed everything I used myself from those.

Using crappy Taklon brushes, but will keep those for dry brushes, and have ordered a couple Series 7s from dickblick.com.

 

[Leunam]

It's a great start, I think. I think a brown wash may look good on the skeleton as well, once you get your hands on it. The base is a little bare, which is fine because you're just practicing brush control like you said, but you may also consider a different ground color as a final (drybrush) highlight to create a better contrast between the ground and the shaft on the spear.

Great choice on the W & N Series 7s. I've got four brushes that I bought something like three years ago and they are still going strong with moderate care (proper storage, but no brush cleaner besides water). Great brushes.

 

[BattleMonkey]

Great start on that skeleton. And painting with white is always a pain, but for something like skeletons the roughness of it helps with the old dirty look.

 

[bloodydrake]

krypt0nian that turned out very well for a first figure.

Only thing I can say is I personally found black washes makes everything darker, so try and paint everything abit lighter to start with helps offset that.

You could try adding just a touch of brown/yellow to the white for the next skeleton bone color,but thats personal preference for sure.


I'm pretty sure I'm gonna prime the bones myself so the base coat can be thinned down more,I know for the Drizzt and Ravenloft games I left the base coats to thick and lost more detail then I wanted, plus I've really gotten use to painting on grey to start

 

[Diatribe1974]

Hey thanks. I wasn't going to post until I got a bit more comfortable but hell why not? I bought a few Reaper Bones figs to help make the wait until the Kickstarter pays of in the Spring so here's my very first fig painted ever.

Be gentle, but any suggestions, tips would be great. I chose to believe Reaper about their Bones line and didn't prime the mini. And truthfully it took paint really well. The key is to not thin your base coats. After than thin away.

This is a basic base coat, black wash for shadows, and dry brush. No attempts at real highlights yet, as I was just focusing on brush control this go round. I'm pretty ok with it considering I'm working with 7 colors (black, white, leather, red, blue, yellow, silver + a black wash), and mixed everything I used myself from those.

Using crappy Taklon brushes, but will keep those for dry brushes, and have ordered a couple Series 7s from dickblick.com.

Did a great job turning a piece of shit model into one that's not too horrible at all to place & play on the tabletop. Kudos!

On a side note, I found a Dwarf Lord http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?prodId=prod780844 at my local game store mislabeled as a "Dwarf Thane" in a small dime baggie for a measily 15$. Since it was not only a dwarf, but also a metal mini, I snatched it up and got it home & primed (should be dry by the time I post this). Am back to painting my dwarf army and will finish it and then move onto my Space Wolves before finally tackling my beloved Skaven horde!

 

[krypt0nian]

Thanks guys. I'll take that all in and do another. For a first effort, it's encouraging. =)

 

[piratepwnsninja]

So I used Gesso as a primer. It is officially the strangest substance I have ever dealt with.

Decided to prime some Shifting Stones with it (my son's b-day army is a Hordes Circle Orboros one) and, well, here:

Umprimed mini:

So with Gesso, you just glop it on there. At least that's what I've read online. So, it looks like an oilspill happened on my mini in this picture:

Then overnight, it still isn't totally set so there is a little bit of rounding, but (sorry for the blurry pic...and my nails that I need to clip):

No, I didn't wipe any off or anything. That's just what this stuff does. The painting surface takes paint sooooo well too.

 

[BattleMonkey]

Seems to have killed some of the sharpness on the original fig, did it get better later or looks the same?

 

[piratepwnsninja]

Seems to have killed some of the sharpness on the original fig, did it get better later or looks the same?

It's actually tighter on the fig now. I'll get some pictures.

 

[bloodydrake]

So I used Gesso as a primer. It is officially the strangest substance I have ever dealt with.

Decided to prime some Shifting Stones with it (my son's b-day army is a Hordes Circle Orboros one) and, well, here:



Then overnight, it still isn't totally set so there is a little bit of rounding, but (sorry for the blurry pic...and my nails that I need to clip):

No, I didn't wipe any off or anything. That's just what this stuff does. The painting surface takes paint sooooo well too.

OK thats totally bizarro but cool.
is it cheep to buy? do you have a link to the product? is it something you mix up from dry? or is it the oily paste to start?

 

[piratepwnsninja]

OK thats totally bizarro but cool.
is it cheep to buy? do you have a link to the product? is it something you mix up from dry? or is it the oily paste to start?

I just bought a pot of it. It's like, 243ml and was only $8 at Hobby Lobby. It's Pro Art brand. I've heard and Bob Ross brand are "mini ready" while certain others work better when mixed with some matte medium and water.

 

[GarthVaderUK]

Big changes coming to White Dwarf magazine:

White Dwarf reborn

In just over a week's time the pages of White Dwarf will change forever. Miniatures will be shown in a new light, battle reports will be reborn and new articles will be read for the first time. Even the classic logo that sat at the head of the magazine for the last 20 years will disappear into the Hall of Legends.

On September 22nd 2012, White Dwarf will be reborn; bigger, better and more exciting than ever before.

As news goes, that's pretty exciting stuff, I think you'll agree. For the last half-year a crack team of designers have been pulling White Dwarf apart at the seams, re-forging it into something incredibly exciting. Everything is new, nothing's the same. Even the paper is a higher quality, that's the degree to which the magazine has changed.

Suffice to say we're all very excited about our work on the magazine, and the select few people that we've revealed it to in the Studio were overjoyed. Yes, you read that right, most of the guys in the Studio haven't even seen it yet - we're keeping it very close to our chests. Jervis Johnson, one of the regular columnists in White Dwarf was allowed a quick glimpse of the first issue yesterday and almost shed a tear of hobby happiness.

http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/wnt/blog.jsp?pid=4200016

Sounds good!

 

[Saiyar]

Big changes coming to White Dwarf magazine:

http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/wnt/blog.jsp?pid=4200016

Sounds good!

Hopefully this means the return of Chapter approved.

 

[BattleMonkey]

If they can make white dwarf into something useful instead of just a giant advertisement for the new products, it could be interesting. They need to put interesting articles which aren't simply highlight fluff pieces on upcoming product. We need new game materials, background stories, scenarios, chapter approved rules, etc. Screw the whiners who don't keep up, at the tournament level where it matters to people, they all know what is up, the casual player is not going to care that they haven't kept up.

 

[Cosmic Schwung]

Haven't bought a white dwarf in over a decade and can't think of anything they could do to change that. Closest they got was putting new rules/codices in. I guess it just feels irrelevant in this day and age, just like most print media. Also, the cynic in must just sees it as a justification to bump up the price.

 

[Leunam]

I buy the issues from time to time because they'll usually have some really cool army or conversion idea or great terrain sets. It's not often enough for me to justify a subscription, though. If this 'bigger and better' White Dwarf really is what they say then yeah, I can see a price bump coming, too. Price would be good if it were for a new issue every other month.

 

[SillyEskimo]

This happened before. WD increaded in size and had a price bump. Then, it was reduced in size and kept the price increase.

They need to get away from the corporate angle and move over towards the hobby crowd. The players and gamers are doing better things with GW's products and IPs than they have ever done. Every issue needs to have players and painters highlighted, not stuck in a panel every dozen issues.

Also, I really enjoy their "Tale of 4 Gamers" where 4 dudes all plan a new army, buy, paint, and play games with them over several months. I like the evolution. I like the fact they never paint that great. I like learning through their mistakes.

They could also release a little bit more info of long term plans to give us something to look forward to. Why let the gossip sites constantly steal your thunder? Let us hear it from the horses mouth. Show us mock ups, diaries, planning, art, ect. all in high quality with your commentary.

Man, I could go on all day. I could make WD better overnight. It's not hard!

 

[MedIC86]

Soo lately i have this urge to buy some WH40K (just for painting) but everytime i log into the GW site i feel bummed because its sooo expensive (esspecialy with the paints and all)...

Any place to get it cheaper or anyone have other tips? (Europe)

 

[BattleMonkey]

Oh man, really digging the new Dust Axis troop transport:

Soo lately i have this urge to buy some WH40K (just for painting) but everytime i log into the GW site i feel bummed because its sooo expensive (esspecialy with the paints and all)...

Any place to get it cheaper or anyone have other tips?

Most online retailers like warstore and miniaturemarket will sell for about 20-25% off retail, you just have to call to order or email usually as GW doesn't let online retailers sell directly via shopping carts. Paints and supplies, it's best to buy from a hobby store generic products and not the expensive marked up GW hobby supplies.

 

[GarthVaderUK]

Soo lately i have this urge to buy some WH40K (just for painting) but everytime i log into the GW site i feel bummed because its sooo expensive (esspecialy with the paints and all)...

Any place to get it cheaper or anyone have other tips? (Europe)

Some of the popular alternatives:
http://www.waylandgames.co.uk/
http://www.maelstromgames.co.uk/
http://www.totalwargamer.co.uk/
http://giftsforgeeks.org.uk/
http://www.oggames.co.uk/
http://www.elementgames.co.uk/

 

[bloodydrake]

Finished up another mini boss(Kobold) from Ashardalon.
Its ok ..but not completely satisfied.


Its a weird thing..It all seems more sloppy in the photo, but it doesn't seem that bad when i just look at it with the naked eye. The medium scale pic at the geek seems more natural to what I see looking at it for example.

Trying to move to including highlighting in my painting of figures feels like I've gone from very comfortably painting within the lines to now struggling to effectively paint outside the lines.

I know what I want to do but its not as easy as it looks.

Im still thinking I'm using to much white to lighten colors for highlighting but not sure if that's the real problem or not, It feels a little like I'm having a Where's Waldo block with not seeing what I need to change.

Could very well just be a practice, practice, practice thing and or ,just buy some more paint shades that will make highlight color selection easier to pick

 

[yamo]

Finished up another mini boss(Kobold) from Ashardalon.
Its ok ..but not completely satisfied.

Large Pic of Meerak

Its a weird thing..It all seems more sloppy in the photo, but it doesn't seem that bad when i just look at it with the naked eye. The medium scale pic at the geek seems more natural to what I see looking at it for example.

Trying to move to including highlighting in my painting of figures feels like I've gone from very comfortably painting within the lines to now struggling to effectively paint outside the lines.

I know what I want to do but its not as easy as it looks.

Im still thinking I'm using to much white to lighten colors for highlighting but not sure if that's the real problem or not, It feels a little like I'm having a Where's Waldo block with not seeing what I need to change.

Could very well just be a practice, practice, practice thing and or ,just buy some more paint shades that will make highlight color selection easier to pick

Looking very good to me.

I'm a bit curious as i'm about to start painting minis myself, hopefully you can help me answer some questions.

- Are you still using the Army Painter dip, and if so are you adding the highlighting after the dip or before?
- What technique do you use for highlighting? Drybrushing?
- Do you dip and shake the mini, or do you apply the dip with a brush?

Really like all of the minis you post and hopefully I will be able to achieve something similar one day!

 

[bloodydrake]

Looking very good to me.
I'm a bit curious as i'm about to start painting minis myself, hopefully you can help me answer some questions.

Thx! and sure love too.

- Are you still using the Army Painter dip, and if so are you adding the highlighting after the dip or before?

Yes still using the Army Painter Strong tone(done about 60 figures and can is about 1/5th gone,I'm starting to wish I had gone with Dark tone honestly) All the highlighting has been done before I dip.

- What technique do you use for highlighting? Drybrushing?

I've been using both layering and drybrushing.
for example the backpack on this Kobold is about 4 different progressively lighter shades of brown. The armour I used a blend of white and metalic and drybrushed the top of the armor on the arm,neck and outer thigh to try and highlight it.

- Do you dip and shake the mini, or do you apply the dip with a brush?

Amost all of them are the dip and shake tho this last one and the snakes I brushed it on liberally and then used a cheap brush to wick off the excess.(it was dark out side so couldn't shake the kobold and the snakes had nothing to grab hold of to do the shake)

 

[Leunam]

Im still thinking I'm using to much white to lighten colors for highlighting but not sure if that's the real problem or not, It feels a little like I'm having a Where's Waldo block with not seeing what I need to change.

Try using similar colors for highlight mixes. I used to use a mix of white and red to highlight red, but I've had far better results using orange and red as it provides a smoother transition.

 

[BattleMonkey]

I use a brush or paper towel to remove excess dip from the figs often since many, especially pewter figs.... feel like they will break when you shake em hard. You gotta be fairly rough with the shaking and already had one fig lose a limb while shaking it off.

 

[gwarm01]

I know no one cares these days, but I really wish there was more Battle Tech going on. I went to a local gaming store in my city this week to ask if they had any Battle Tech products, and the guy working there didn't even know what it was. Come on! I know it isn't 1994 anymore, but it's a fun game and I thought it was making a comeback.

 

[Leunam]

Pretty sure it has. There's an up to date box set out that my local comics shop has for sale along with some expansions. A few of my friends play classic BattleTech as well.

 

[BattleMonkey]

I know no one cares these days, but I really wish there was more Battle Tech going on. I went to a local gaming store in my city this week to ask if they had any Battle Tech products, and the guy working there didn't even know what it was. Come on! I know it isn't 1994 anymore, but it's a fun game and I thought it was making a comeback.

It's still around with products consistently coming out, it just never has gotten big and a large problem they have faced is getting new players into the game. It's a somewhat complex game system to jump into for many reasons (different eras of play, the way mechs are distributed in various books, etc). They have been attempting with newer content to make it easier with lot of information pointing new players where to go through intro sets, while not attempting to fix the core problems with the games structure. The game is solid and a classic, but they really should have gone back and completely redone the way they put out the games products. It also doesn't help that the miniatures for the game are put out by a separate company from the one that actually publishes the game itself. It's not uncommon to find a store with the books, but no miniatures. And can't blame them when there is not good support behind the miniatures, and even IWM has admitted to issues with the figs since they have too many. They got hundreds of models and many of which are multiple sculpts of a single battlemech.

Game has a big fan base, but it's largely made up of the old school fans.

 

[bloodydrake]

Try using similar colors for highlight mixes. I used to use a mix of white and red to highlight red, but I've had far better results using orange and red as it provides a smoother transition.

Its a bit scarier to try and add a different color,why it makes me nervous I don't know, which I think is why I've been whitening so much . But ya gonna have to try and stick to it and see it thru.

Found a cool triad pdf from reaper for their paints..Think I'll try and start using it as a base going forward for colors and highlights
http://www.reapermini.com/misc/MSP2009_invert.pdf

 

[gwarm01]

Game has a big fan base, but it's largely made up of the old school fans.

Yeah, you're really right. I guess it goes to show that the only person I know who would be interested aside from me is my friend, and we both played when we were 12. Now we're approaching 30 and suddenly our interest has been sparked by MechWarrior Online and him finding his old BT Compendium and mech sheets. It's been our Helm Memory Core, if you will.

I went ahead and purchased the starter kit off of Amazon since I've long since lost all of my materials. It sucks because I had a lot of miniatures, and from what I can tell it is almost impossible to find new ones.

 

[Leunam]

If you've got a gaming shop nearby that has tables you can drum up interest by playing with your friend there and explaining the rules and actions to anyone who might hang around and watch. That's how my friends and I got other people interested in Necromunda and Aeronautica Imperialis.

 

[BattleMonkey]

Or game shops often have bulletin boards and such for folks to post up games. Don't see it played much, but I know theres a few groups that play on a regular basis and they tend to post up their meeting places and times in different places.

Some good deals of mech starter packs that come with a good variety of figs. The intro starters are nice, not the best miniature quality as it's cheap old sculpts and poor casted plastics. But lot of Btech players have played with nothing more than cardboard standees. You can get minis online for everything still though from Iron Wind Metals

 

[yamo]

Thx! and sure love too.


Yes still using the Army Painter Strong tone(done about 60 figures and can is about 1/5th gone,I'm starting to wish I had gone with Dark tone honestly) All the highlighting has been done before I dip.


I've been using both layering and drybrushing.
for example the backpack on this Kobold is about 4 different progressively lighter shades of brown. The armour I used a blend of white and metalic and drybrushed the top of the armor on the arm,neck and outer thigh to try and highlight it.


Amost all of them are the dip and shake tho this last one and the snakes I brushed it on liberally and then used a cheap brush to wick off the excess.(it was dark out side so couldn't shake the kobold and the snakes had nothing to grab hold of to do the shake)

Thanks for the answers.

I will probably try and paint on the dip as I have no place to shake my minis. Both the kobold and the snakes look great though so i'm feeling confident!

 

[Saiyar]

Horus Hersey volume one: Betrayal

Looking good. I can't wait to see the primarch models.

 

[bloodydrake]

someone on the reaper boards put together a great size comparison photo of all the bones kickstarter option Minis relative to a standard 28mm figure

since the pledge manager isn't done yet everyone that pledged enough to be eligible initially can increase their pledges to get any extras they still want.

I can't wait to see the finished Sculpt for Cthulhu.
definitely get a better sense of scale.

 

[krypt0nian]

Wow! I didn't think I could get more hyped for my Bones Kickstarter figs. This is truly the windfall of all windfalls in minis. I may have to grab all the addons.

 

[BattleMonkey]

Horus Hersey volume one: Betrayal

Looking good. I can't wait to see the primarch models.

Damn.... this is going to get expensive.

 

[Keasar]

someone on the reaper boards put together a great size comparison photo of all the bones kickstarter option Minis relative to a standard 28mm figure

since the pledge manager isn't done yet everyone that pledged enough to be eligible initially can increase their pledges to get any extras they still want.

I can't wait to see the finished Sculpt for Cthulhu.
definitely get a better sense of scale.

http://i.imgur.com/imGlm.png[IMG][/QUOTE]

Holy shit, I knew some of them would be big but not THAT big. When saying 28mm, is that the height of a figure? Cause then they are kinda tiny (at least if I dont remember Warhammer figures wrong, or I might have grown a bit since). Going for the Fire Giant Warriors, PF Red Dragon and either elementals/demons Then some others that I havent decided for switching in Sophie.