question for those with some experience with things like this
the shields are on a separate piece it looks like its suppose to be glued to the forearm where I've circled it.
I think i'm gonna prime and paint both before attaching them.
Question is should i use a little masking tape on the bracer and shield mounts so I don't get primer or paint on it? or should I just paint it all um and then sand/file a couple contact points clean?
or is there something else I'm overlooking? I presume you don't' want to glue paint to paint or am I over thinking this?
Any advice would be appreciated.
You have a few options.
You first question...If you're going to go the route you are (paint separate), I would probably just paint the spots with less detail and file a spot to glue.
Also, you are correct - you don't want to just glue painted part to painted part. It won't usually yield good results. It can cause the paint to run/chip/dissolve depending on the parameters at play.
Here are a few routes I've taken in the past (sorry, this post is very convoluted, haha).
- Paint both parts separately, but sand/file the two contact areas. Use a gel style glue to join the parts to prevent any running.
Works best for large/obstructed contact points Ex: Shields, backpacks, large armor pieces
- Use a pin vice to drill small holes in the model and place a thin paper clip or similar object in to facilitate a more direct joint. After painting, use a small dab of glue inside the joint to create a bond. Some glue may get onto the model this way, but if the amount is small enough, likely won't cause damage.
Works best for body parts to body parts, large "add-ons", turrets, etc. Ex: Tyranid Trygon, Warmachine large jacks (such as Beast 09 or Thunderhead)
- Assemble the model fully and ignore the unseen details.
Works best for, well, mostly anything, especially infantry. Ex: Space marines, Tyrnaid gaunts, Necron warriors, etc
I've done all three I suggested. Outside of the third one, you always run the risk of needing to do some touch-up painting (test the glue on a model with paint beforehand to determine if/how much you'd need). The second method works great for large jacks or mechs/vehicles. I used it when I played Warmachine and had to assemble larger warjacks.
I seldom used the first method because I didn't have the highly viscous super glue until later in my modeling career. It can definitely be beneficial if the model allows it. I may consider doing a hard/gloss coat prior to gluing so you don't smudge things with your fingers. After assembly, you can/should go back with a dull/matte coat (or light hard/gloss if that's the finish you're looking for).
The third method is VERY commonly used amongst even the top painters. Learning to recognize what details should be brought out and which can be glossed over is part of the growth of a good painter. Sure, a Golden Demon winner will have a VASTLY different approach to that, but they also aren't sticking to paint brushes and dipping! Also, this helps develop brush control TREMENDOUSLY. Learning to slither down into those little gaps to dot the paint on a small cuff or jewel is a skill you'll want anyways.
Honestly, I may suggest giving at least the first and third a try. Pinning isn't smart in your case given the size and situation.
Hopefully this helps a little!
