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Miniature Gaming-Age (WH40k, Warmachine, Etc.)

Never heard of this one, but apparently there is a Neuroshima skirmish miniature game coming out, "Neuroshima Tactics": http://www.portalpublishing.eu/products/neuroshima-tactics/

The rules are not available yet but apparently will be a free download it appears. Many may know Neuroshima setting from the boardgame Neuroshima Hex that became pretty popular due to it's Ipad/Iphone app versions and then the following card game 51st State.

I have to agree with the community. Its dumb to not allow places to show prices or pictures. I found a set on amazon for around 25, a tau fire warrior set I think I'm gonna start with. I like the look of the tau army.

I picked up lot of my Warhammer stuff through ebay.
 

bloodydrake

Cool Smoke Luke
So rather than work up from darker tones to light you blend into the shade. Interesting. This probably works the other way around, too.
So far I think they've done two videos. The figures skin is done in a base mid tone to start.

The first video is shading down ,and the second video is adding highlighting.

The thread has abit of a work along feel to it..someone is trying to emulate what she's doing then she critiques the work offers advice and shows some pics where he can improve.
 

bloodydrake

Cool Smoke Luke
last night I went to MIGS for second weekly Wings of War game night.
Looks like things are gonna work out and we'll do a winter campaign on thurday nights.

So MIGS is definitely a hardcore Man-cave, but man they've got some simply amazing terrain and resources available.

They have shelves of cardboard filing boxes(like comic boxes) full of model terrain , lotta scifi cathedral stuff( think its Warhammer 40k) and general historical stuff

I initially thought this was a junk table(i live in steel city it looked like rusted metal pieces to me.local flora ;-) )..but upon closer inspection Derek showed me it was all models of industrial factories and war torn buildings made for a sci-fi game no ones playing anymore.

I was looking at it all and couldn't help but think ,man this stuff would be so awesome for playing Infinity.. cool shit
sHl5B.jpg

7Vyr0.jpg
 

bloodydrake

Cool Smoke Luke
not sure name but it could be Necromunda, I'll ask them next week.

added a blurry photo from other side can see the catwalk and stuff on it..
I think its left out like that cuz none of the models will fit in rubbermaid boxes or the cardboard boxes like the other terrain
 

bloodydrake

Cool Smoke Luke
Just a FYI for those that pledged.
The Reaper Bones Pledge Manager is now live.
Access link is being sent to your your kickstarter email address.
 

bloodydrake

Cool Smoke Luke
they should have all been sent..they'll go to your email address associated with kickstarter..for me that was my facebooks primary email address.
 
I'm getting back into 40k after several years. I never really got to the point of playing much. I have the beginnings of an Elysian Drop Troops force I'll start working on again (yes I am insane).

I would like to build up a Forgeworld Elysian list, but I also want to have a vanilla IG-compatible army when needed. Right now I'm thinking something along the lines of 3 valkyries and 3 vendettas/vultures, plus a bunch of troops. That's just some idle thought based on not wanting to crowd the entire frickin table with huge flyers, but I've wanted to make a valk-based force since long before they were in the codex. I will probably want to pick an allied force as well for now, just because buying and painting the Elysians will take a long time.

Anyone have any tips for them? Units, tactics, allies, etc?
 
I'm getting back into 40k after several years. I never really got to the point of playing much. I have the beginnings of an Elysian Drop Troops force I'll start working on again (yes I am insane).

I would like to build up a Forgeworld Elysian list, but I also want to have a vanilla IG-compatible army when needed. Right now I'm thinking something along the lines of 3 valkyries and 3 vendettas/vultures, plus a bunch of troops. That's just some idle thought based on not wanting to crowd the entire frickin table with huge flyers, but I've wanted to make a valk-based force since long before they were in the codex. I will probably want to pick an allied force as well for now, just because buying and painting the Elysians will take a long time.

Anyone have any tips for them? Units, tactics, allies, etc?

With IG the best to do currently is to have as much templates as you can.
 

Leunam

Member
So I decided to give the whole feathering/blending technique that bloodydrake posted a try.

First, the based mini:

0yVRAl.jpg


Here we have Choppy McBadguy. No arms yet because I want to paint every detail possible. The black stuff on the base is from some "Black Lava" basing paste that I bought from TheWarstore.com. Fantastic stuff, goes on like thick PVA and is basically instant basing that dries quickly. Whenever I use this stuff I always add a little extra basing by dabbing some super glue in one spot then dipping the mini in some basing material like the stuff that GW sells. I do this just so I can get some larger size rocks and grit on the base. I also added just a little chunk of brick patterned plasticard that I bought from Plastruct.com. If you are in the US and need plasticard, I really recommend these guys. Their website is old and not 100% user friendly, but damn they have a crazy awesome selection. Not sure what scale that brick is, but I can check later if anyone needs it.

NhiyLl.jpg

GwKnal.jpg


And of course, these are after priming and after the skin was painted. First a confession: I am awful at painting skin. I always was. I followed many basic tutorials that basically suggest lots of washes and highlights and stuff. This isn't a particularly amazing result, but I am very happy with it. So from what I gathered from the video tutorial and from skimming the thread, this technique involves finding a nice mid-tone for your color, and then feathering out the shading from the recesses and then feathering in the highlights from the raised areas.

I had a tough time with the recesses because the color that I chose wasn't enough of a contrast. On top of that, the secondary brush that was used for the actual feathering (the primary being used for the application of the paint) was holding too much water. And on top of that, the paint wasn't watered down enough, so it dried way too quick. But I finally got a good grip on it on the highlights.

With the highlights, I applied some paint, still watery, and then used the secondary brush, which was almost completely dry, and feathered the paint away from the highlights on the muscles. This time around, the highlight was too much of a contrast and so the transition was too stark. Next time I do this I'm going to need five different skin tones for smoother transitions instead of the three that I used here.

Anyway, I'll try and get this finished by tomorrow evening. If you guys have any questions or suggestions, please feel free to pitch in. I'm always looking to improve.
 

bloodydrake

Cool Smoke Luke
Leunam thx for the update, The results in the pics look great

I tried it using this technique on some robes on the Cultists I'm working on with varied success.

I was definitely still having problems where the edge I was trying to drag along was drying to quick to get a smooth blend. I'm thinking it was both me trying to do to long a stroke/are and cuz i'm pretty slow at this and the paint was drying to quickly

I believe I'd like to try some of the paint extender stuff, the additive you can add to your paint so it doesn't dry so fast..I'm not sure what its called or where to get it yet but I hear it referenced in alot of video tutorials.
 
Is there an easy way to take models that have been painted before and repaint them? I'm looking at ebay for some low priced models to start with and I see a lot of models that seemed to be painted very poorly, as if they just dipped the models in paint.
 

Mrninjaman

Neo Member
I've heard from a couple places that brake fluid is the best thing, just buy a cheap bottle at the store and pour it in a bucket then soak the painted mini's for 45 min to an hour. After that rinse them off and scrub off the remaining paint with a tooth brush.

Only thing to remember is that Brake fluid isn't exactly good for you so get some cheap gloves and maybe have some eye protection just in case.
 
dettol-liquid.jpg


Works on styrene and metals, leave them in for a couple of hours then scrub them with a hard bristle cleaning brush. It'll nuke the undercoats as well. It was a bit of a revelation when i found it.

I imagine every store in america has it's own brand thick liquid disinfectant if that's where you're located.

I've never tried it on finecast crap though.
 
I've heard from a couple places that brake fluid is the best thing, just buy a cheap bottle at the store and pour it in a bucket then soak the painted mini's for 45 min to an hour. After that rinse them off and scrub off the remaining paint with a tooth brush.

Only thing to remember is that Brake fluid isn't exactly good for you so get some cheap gloves and maybe have some eye protection just in case.

I've had about 50 minis soaking in break fluid for the last 7 years. I'll post pics sometime. They're still in there.
 

Leunam

Member
D7oqfl.jpg


So I got a little ambitious and decided to do some gold NMM (Non-Metallic Metal). What I've got here is just the base colors for the evil armor (just red with gold banding) and tonight I'll be doing the blending. The red looks a little cartoony but maybe adding a wash might help mute the colors a little bit. I did get started on the bone spikes, the skulls, and the horns but my power went out and I didn't get a chance to upload its current state. I'm hoping to wrap that up tonight as well. Once all these are done I'll move on to the leather belts, boots, and pouches and then the fur and hair after that. I'll work on the arm/axe assembly after that.

Looking back, I really wished I had turned the horns back like ram horns, or even chop them off and do antlers. Oh well. :(

I also have to do the basing, which is typically what I leave last. I can do a snowy wasteland, desert badlands, forest grounds, or city ruins. I haven't decided which I want to do but I can take suggestions.

Just remembered this helpful article for battle damage. I'm tempted to try this on the armor as well.
 
Warstore is having a sale on a bunch of miniature gaming goodies put on clearance/reductions. Nice way to get some entries into the various Spartan Games stuff. Also general 5% off code listed on the front page. No games workshop stuff though for the sale :p

http://www.thewarstore.com/
 

bloodydrake

Cool Smoke Luke
still waiting for my FLGS to get its shipment of Magnets and Orboros Heavy Warpwolf kit in so I can finish assembling my Hordes plastic figures.

So i've gone back to trying to finish up some more Ashardalon figures..I got the rest of the Cultists finished.

Somethings are better..but still struggling with blending and layers..that will probably take awhile to nail down..but better to work it on on these then the Hordes and Warlord figures :)
 

Leunam

Member
They look good to me. There's always room for improvement, of course, but this is a good start. It really looks like you've got an understanding of the technique involved, you just need some practice with brush control. It's only a matter of time now, keep it up!

Did a little more work tonight, wanted to share.

So the horns and bony bits are finished. Not much to be said there. Started on the fur, which is just a single layer of grey for now which will get a wash and then a highlight. Also worked on the leather and while it's three shades of brown, there isn't much contrast and the highlights are a little hard to see. I'll likely go back and do another layer. I might also use a drybrush to carefully add some more light brown to give the leather a nice "cracked" and worn look.

RRFuZl.jpg

nQt0Gl.jpg


Nice shot of the details and leather here. Again, the highlights are barely visible, so another pass is needed. I've gotten my fill of skulls from Warhammer, but I like these skulls on the belt that are held in place by an interwoven rope. Neat touch. These boots were actually fun to paint, it was nice seeing it come together between the fur, the belts and the armor. Also, please excuse the horrid, awful flash line on the right leg. Ugh, didn't see it until after the mini was primed. Lesson learned.

3YMMTl.jpg

J1Odxl.jpg


Oh god it's so obvious in this shot. :(
 
Bah I've missed so many flash lines in my time heh. Always pisses you off once it's too late.

Was hoping for the 50% Infinity sale that ran for Infinity Week a while back. :(

Rare to get sale on Infinity stuff. There was a while when a bunch of online retailers were dropping the game and putting it all on clearances few years ago, that was a nice period to be in the game. Still got blisters of random other armies from those.
 
Bah I've missed so many flash lines in my time heh. Always pisses you off once it's too late.



Rare to get sale on Infinity stuff. There was a while when a bunch of online retailers were dropping the game and putting it all on clearances few years ago, that was a nice period to be in the game. Still got blisters of random other armies from those.

Oh it's rare but like I said, there was an amazing half off sale during their last Infinity week. Probably have to wait until the next hardcover release. :(
 

Leunam

Member
Not really feeling the road and river sets. The banking is really high on both. The hills and rocks looks good though. I think I would buy some of those for scatter terrain.
 
was on the reaper boards and looks like someones started a Wargame Terrain Kickstarter.

not sure how it compares to retail terrain, but I'm sure some of you all are more knowledgeable

My wallet is weeping

http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/920094478/fallingsky-games-wargame-terrain

Hehe guy from our guild posted this up for his friend whose running the kickstarter.

The deal isn't the best though truly, especially since it's unpainted terrain. You can get lots of unpainted terrain for decent prices. Also not a fan of their rivers and roads since they stick up way too much. They almost reach the waists of the 28mm figs and that's including the figure bases. Some of the bulk deals are decent though but still pricey.
 
Not really feeling the road and river sets. The banking is really high on both. The hills and rocks looks good though. I think I would buy some of those for scatter terrain.

Yup, immediatly disliked those.

I really like the JR Miniatures prepainted rubber roads/river sets. Have a big bag of them and they make for easy road set ups and the price isn't too bad.
 

Leunam

Member
You can see a little blending here on the leg armor near the top. That's paired with black ink for the shade. I used the same shade for the armor inside the banding. I think I'm going to experiment with inks for shade but feathering for highlights. I'll probably get better results that way.

RRUHTl.jpg

2Ay7vl.jpg

EqOHRl.jpg


Gotta say, not really happy with the loincloth. Blending isn't well done.

I also painted the horn on the waist. The bone is finished but the metal components need a highlights. The fur was washed in ink and I'll be adding some highlights with a lighter grey as a final touch. Also added one last tiny bit of highlighting on the leather. And it's hard to tell from these shots, but I painted the eyes as well. Going to need to practice that, too. I think after the last round of highlights I only have the hair left to do at which point I have to do the arm and weapon. Base will be done last.
 
Looking real good!

Anyone try and of the new Star Fleet Battles miniatures that they have put out that are now in resin? Been considering it but I was not huge fan of Call to Arms when it was under Babylon 5 franchise due to it being a dice fest.
 

bloodydrake

Cool Smoke Luke
so i picked up Kaya the moonhunter and & Laris while waiting for other stuff to come in..
I have a couple questions about best way to approach assembly of these two.


For Laris.
Would it be best to try and superglue the pieces together then just use greenstuff on any gaps left over?
Or roll out a thin sausage of greenstuff and stick that to around the perimeter and just squish it between them and smooth out the excess that comes out?

and for Kaya the hand to attach is super tiny..it looks to me I should Pin it. tho the drill bit that came with the pin vice is too big. think its 1/16 something like a 1/32 might work.
assembled it should look like this.

The other Idea I had was to just turn the wrist so the blade at the back touches the thigh and use superglue at that contact point and superglue on the wrist socket. I'm wondering if that will be strong enough tho?

Any thoughts either way?
 

Leunam

Member
That's a nice looking model. I would try and do the sausage method but make sure you have some areas where the bond is made with super glue.

As for the arm, if you have a set of Gator clips to hold it in place it would make it way easier but it sounds like you don't. With fiddly bits like that I just glue it then use anything (paint bottles, bases, plasticard) I can to elevate the arm or the body in place overnight while it settles. Things like that tend to be a pain.

Anyone try and of the new Star Fleet Battles miniatures that they have put out that are now in resin? Been considering it but I was not huge fan of Call to Arms when it was under Babylon 5 franchise due to it being a dice fest.

Haven't heard of this, but I'll check it out later. I'm actually on the verge of ordering some Infinity stuff myself so another game might be a little dangerous.
 

Leunam

Member
Main part one step from being finished. Basing is completed and fur is highlighted. I've primed the arm and will hopefully finish this week.

xpkkkl.jpg

tlOUUl.jpg

o0BWUl.jpg

c2Rh5l.jpg
 
Haven't heard of this, but I'll check it out later. I'm actually on the verge of ordering some Infinity stuff myself so another game might be a little dangerous.

5% off coupon also at the Warstore right now for all these purchases.... *wink wink*

It's basically resized and redone in resin with better detail Star Fleet Battles figs. You can use them for SFB original game which still is played and ancient, or the newer Call to Arms version, which is a simplified quick paced game.

The fleet boxes are like $120 but you get a bunch of figs and a rulebook.
 

Leunam

Member
Thank you. I'm actually really happy with how it's looking so far. The arm is likely going to have a lot of the same techniques so I probably won't have another update until that's done. I'll have pictures of the finished model taken with a better camera.
 
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