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Miniature Gaming-Age (WH40k, Warmachine, Etc.)

Risible

Member
I posted the cost breakdown for the Reaper Kickstarter thread. Thought you guys might enjoy it here also.

Core is currently at 118 minis (w/o the weapons or bases) – 85 cents per mini.
- Most Smaller minis go for: $1.99 - $2.29 (58% - 64% off) ~22 smaller minis so far in core
- Most medium sized character minis go for $2.29 - $2.79 (64%-70% discount) 75 currently
- Most Large minis go for: $3.29 - $6.99 (75%-88% discount) ~ 21 ≥Large minis in core
- 25 one inch bases are $4.99, x2 (we get ~50) is $9.98 which people are getting for free
- 10 two inch bases are $4.99 x2 (we get ~20) is $9.98 again for free.
- The weapon sprues in metal cost ~$8.99 (but guessing from the familiars and rats would be Between $1.99 - $3.99 in Bones) again, x3 ($6-$12) for free.
Once the Pathfinder II minis unlock, there will be 123 minis in the core (w/o counting weapons and Bases)
- Each mini would be 81 cents.
Remember in metal all these things would be more expensive. For example the pathfinder troll is $15.99 in metal. Actually in metal the Pathfinder II addition is $43.95 in metal, and would likely be at least $7.49 at retail in Bones.
But each person needs to find their own value in this. :)

Has anyone done a breakdown of the last two Kickstarters and determined what the best pickups are in the sense of which pieces will have the biggest markups when they are released to retail?

I'd also like to see something that showed which ones you would have saved the most on if you bought it via Kickstarter as opposed to retail. For instance, I know that Dragon's Don't Share II went for $35 during the Kickstarter but sells for $75 now, meaning you saved $40 getting it off of the KS.
 

embalm

Member
Has anyone done a breakdown of the last two Kickstarters and determined what the best pickups are in the sense of which pieces will have the biggest markups when they are released to retail?

I'd also like to see something that showed which ones you would have saved the most on if you bought it via Kickstarter as opposed to retail. For instance, I know that Dragon's Don't Share II went for $35 during the Kickstarter but sells for $75 now, meaning you saved $40 getting it off of the KS.

Nobody has done a complete breakdown. Usually the biggest stuff(DDS2) and the packaged stuff(core and expansion) have the biggest savings. It's hard to figure out the retail prices because it depends on the number of pieces, packaging, and final size. Not all of those things are final in the Kickstarter. Just doing some comparisons to existing stuff gets you int he ball park though.

Retail cost of Bones:
Small -- $.60 (Kobolds/Rats, sold in packages)
Medium -- $2.29 to $2.99
Large -- $3.99 to $4.99 (Ogre/Minotaur)
(kickstart for $2 or less)
Huge -- $7.99 to $9.99 (hill/fire/frost giant size)
(kickstart for $5 or less)
Huge+ -- $12.99 (larger or lots of details/pieces, Minotaur Demon Lord)
Mounted Figure -- $3.99
Large Dragon -- $9.99
Huge+ Dragon -- 19.99 to 24.99
(kickstart for $10 or $15)
Insanely Large Figures -- 29.99 - 39.99 (Mashaaf, Nethyrmaul, Cthulu)
(kickstart for $15+)

Edit:
After writing that I went back and some of the add-ons do stand out as the best deals
  • Shubniggurath - With all of the pieces and the size it will be $40 to $50.
  • Kyra & Lavawrath - Not the biggest dragon, but it has a lot of small pieces and detail, I would guess at least $25 retail.
  • Frost Giants - They are much larger than the current giants, probably closer to the $12 figures.
  • Undying Lords is right on the line of 50% off of retail, but the large minotaur skeleton probably makes it a solid deal.
  • Core Ogres - $6 for 3 ogres is a steal, they will sell for $6 a piece I bet.
  • Core Lycanthropes - 3 big minis for $5.
  • Core Orcs - $6 for 4 orcs, those are big orcs, the current ones are $2.99 each.
 

Brakke

Banned
So I got that Infinity starter box jobby and constructed one of the armies last night. The models look p cool but as expected they are kind of fiddly and I'm super worried about painting being a nightmare...

In any case, I was trying to vaguely plot out some pick ups to get to the standard point cost, just to see how far that is from the starter box, and *man* is each factions catalogue confusing af. I was playing with http://www.infinitythegame.com/army/ and I don't understand it at all. Every faction has at least a couple sub-factions? Is there some kind of chart or guide somewhere on what a faction's model pool is? Even if I look at one of the subfactions on that list builder, it's hard to visualize like which of these is basic grunt vs mech without clicking through all of them and gauging from the stats...

Also the starter box is a set of Pan Oceana and Nomads. Both forces contain 3 grunts and a heavy infantry dude, each of which has super similar stats across faction. Does every faction have similar staples?
 

Leunam

Member
The subfactions are called Sectorials. They have different allowances for what you can and cannot take, but you get the nice added bonus of being able to make fireteams out of units that otherwise couldn't, among other things.

And yes, every army has its grunts and heavy units. Or medics, bots, hackers, etc. Some of these archetypes are better than others across different armies.
 

Brakke

Banned
Oh I see in the rules "Fireteams (to learn more, check Infinity: Human Sphere)". I didn't read Infinity: Human Sphere. Maybe I need to grab that, too. Thanks.
 
Got my first airbrush over the weekend. Got it for cheap from Aldi (100 bucks) and it has been great so far (with some natural teething issues),

Made making this tree terrain SO quick.

CKZy92rVEAAaaTb.jpg

CKZy-j1UcAAebWo.jpg


Obviously it has more uses than that, but I'll start with terrain and work up to minis.
 
Hey guys, have anyone tried Bolt Action?

Any thoughts and opinions on it?

Edit: Also, damn, I have quite a few Reaper minis, including one bone mini, and I have never painted them. Thanks for reminding me guys.
 

Leunam

Member
Never tried it but it's well regarded in the wargaming community.

Scribe, that terrain looks good. I've been wanting to build more terrain but I live in a small apartment and I don't have much room for it.
 
Never tried it but it's well regarded in the wargaming community.

Scribe, that terrain looks good. I've been wanting to build more terrain but I live in a small apartment and I don't have much room for it.

Thanks :D will post up the full board if it ever gets finished.

I'm in the same situation, requires creative storage solutions...
 

Leunam

Member
First time painting tan skin. I think I'm pretty much done with it, no need to go further. Only problem is that in my haste I ended up with streaks in the paint.


Next step is painting the band around the bicep and the leather straps around the Caestus. After that, the skirt and wrappings around the legs.
 

Leunam

Member
Thanks BattleMonkey

Love the ground cover on that Scribe. It looks really playable too. Did you buy one of the Woodland Scenics books on how to do nature scapes? I've been reading one and it's been pretty handy.
 
Thanks BattleMonkey

Love the ground cover on that Scribe. It looks really playable too. Did you buy one of the Woodland Scenics books on how to do nature scapes? I've been reading one and it's been pretty handy.

Nah this was more trial and error lol. They are playable for skirmish games... basically any game which doesn't have movement trays.

Most of it is building up a collection of different flocks, grasses and lichen, and just sorta scattering them around lol.
 

Risible

Member
Nobody has done a complete breakdown. Usually the biggest stuff(DDS2) and the packaged stuff(core and expansion) have the biggest savings. It's hard to figure out the retail prices because it depends on the number of pieces, packaging, and final size. Not all of those things are final in the Kickstarter. Just doing some comparisons to existing stuff gets you int he ball park though.

Retail cost of Bones:
Small -- $.60 (Kobolds/Rats, sold in packages)
Medium -- $2.29 to $2.99
Large -- $3.99 to $4.99 (Ogre/Minotaur)
(kickstart for $2 or less)
Huge -- $7.99 to $9.99 (hill/fire/frost giant size)
(kickstart for $5 or less)
Huge+ -- $12.99 (larger or lots of details/pieces, Minotaur Demon Lord)
Mounted Figure -- $3.99
Large Dragon -- $9.99
Huge+ Dragon -- 19.99 to 24.99
(kickstart for $10 or $15)
Insanely Large Figures -- 29.99 - 39.99 (Mashaaf, Nethyrmaul, Cthulu)
(kickstart for $15+)

Edit:
After writing that I went back and some of the add-ons do stand out as the best deals
  • Shubniggurath - With all of the pieces and the size it will be $40 to $50.
  • Kyra & Lavawrath - Not the biggest dragon, but it has a lot of small pieces and detail, I would guess at least $25 retail.
  • Frost Giants - They are much larger than the current giants, probably closer to the $12 figures.
  • Undying Lords is right on the line of 50% off of retail, but the large minotaur skeleton probably makes it a solid deal.
  • Core Ogres - $6 for 3 ogres is a steal, they will sell for $6 a piece I bet.
  • Core Lycanthropes - 3 big minis for $5.
  • Core Orcs - $6 for 4 orcs, those are big orcs, the current ones are $2.99 each.

Embalm, did you ever do a breakdown for the final results?
 

embalm

Member
Embalm, did you ever do a breakdown for the final results?
No I didn't. I didn't have much time near the end of the campaign.

@ Risible
That is an amazing paint job. I own the mini, but I'm too intimidated to put my brush to it just yet.
 

Leunam

Member
I just completed this Reaper Bones minotaur. I think if I had to do it all over again I would go for iron on his armor rather than brass, but oh well. Happy with him overall.

I think the brass looks good, but I would start with a darker brass and work up. The mini I posted above is dark brass worked up to lighter brass.
 
w9doiFz.jpg


Played a couple of games at my local GW (Now Warhammer) today as part of the store's AoS campaign. The army generation rules are interesting - you choose a non-named Hero to be your warlord. Then you generate a Bodyguard unit of 2D6+5 wounds which has the Look Out, Sir! ability on a 4+ when within 1 inch of the Warlord. Then you choose 2 support units each with 2D6 wounds worth of models.

I used Wood Elves, with a Spellweaver on Elven Steed as my Warlord (admittedly not a particularly powerful choice, but I was lured by the ability to raise D3 models from the dead), which got a 7-man unit of Glade Riders as bodyguard. Then I got a unit of 12 Glade Guard, and a paltry unit of 3 Wardancers. This can be increased at the end of each week based on a number of points (eg, if you lose more than half your games in the week, you can generate 2D6 extra wounds of models, you get 1 point for winning a game, 1 for slaying a 8-wound+ monster etc) with new warscrolls or boosting existing units.

My first game was against Ogors. They didn't have many units on the field, but they managed to get into combat by essentially pinning me into my edge of the board, and I got totally tabled. My saves of 6+ weren't good enough to handle it, even without taking rending attacks into consideration.

The second game was against Stormcast Eternals. I gave a slightly better show of this one, at least I killed more than one model! It was still a massacre once they got in close combat, and my Wardancer unit was too small to have much effect on anything. The enemy warlord had a magical hammer attack which inflicts D6 mortal wounds, which proved to be my undoing.

Overall I had a lot of fun, but I feel I should have picked units with a bit more oomph. Hopefully when we add up the points next time I'm in I can make the Wardancers a bit more dangerous.
 
Thats some really random force construction. Someone can get really screwed by bad rolls

Yeah but it's just for fun, and I've really enjoyed it so far. I played two games today, earned an extra 11 wounds from the last week of gaming so I added three Wardancers and 8 Wildwood Rangers to give my close combat a bit more punch. Both games today were much closer, coming down to the last 3/4 models per side. Best game was against Ogres, sadly my last unit of 5 Glade Riders got destroyed by the Maw magic. It was devastating.

I'm definitely not a competitive player though, I'll never enter a 'serious' tournament! I just play to see my nice painted models running around the table!
 
So see once again Armada being reduced in price as a big retailer like CSI. Have noticed it go on sale several times already (soon after release too), and it was odd to see the game get pretty much no coverage at Gencon with new material announced even. Makes me wonder about how well supported the game is going to be or how well it's even selling. From anecdotal at best, it would seem the game is nowhere near the seller as X-Wing is, thats kind of to be expected though, but wonder if it's not doing that well really?
 

Leunam

Member
It's a different game to X Wing owing to its scale. And most people got into X Wing before Armada was even announced, so they were less inclined to start up on another minis game.
 
It's a different game to X Wing owing to its scale. And most people got into X Wing before Armada was even announced, so they were less inclined to start up on another minis game.

That was a given, I just hope that FFG also realized it as well and it doesn't hurt the game in the future if it doesn't perform anywhere on the same level. It's a fair bit more complex of a game and that also is going to set some folks off.
 

Draxal

Member
So see once again Armada being reduced in price as a big retailer like CSI. Have noticed it go on sale several times already (soon after release too), and it was odd to see the game get pretty much no coverage at Gencon with new material announced even. Makes me wonder about how well supported the game is going to be or how well it's even selling. From anecdotal at best, it would seem the game is nowhere near the seller as X-Wing is, thats kind of to be expected though, but wonder if it's not doing that well really?

I think they had to know it never was going to that well with its price point and the appeal is no where near as strong as x-wing.
 
I think they had to know it never was going to that well with its price point and the appeal is no where near as strong as x-wing.

I just hope it doesn't turn into backlash for really under-performing whatever expectations they might have had. I really like the games potential and want to see decent amount of support for it. Just was odd to many how they didn't have the new wave of stuff at Gencon, as well as not announcing anything new at such an event. Not sure if they would even bother now that they have IA, but was hoping they would attempt a ground based mass combat game with ground vehicles, or some form of extension to X-Wing with ground rules.

If anyone's interested, Privateer Press has published the rules for Warmachine and Hordes for free: http://privateerpress.com/the-rules-are-free. They also put the faction books on discount: they are wildly out of date but probably still useful for getting the flavor of a faction.

Something most should be doing, selling rulebooks is getting silly with how much competition is out there, and most rulebooks are mostly fluff anyways, a simple PDF or booklet can suffice in most cases.
 

Brakke

Banned
Something most should be doing, selling rulebooks is getting silly with how much competition is out there, and most rulebooks are mostly fluff anyways, a simple PDF or booklet can suffice in most cases.

Yeah especially since the War Room app is so good as rules-index. You really only need to read the Warmachine rules once or twice until you figure out the flow, then the app is super good at answering questions on demand.
 

Leunam

Member
Took longer than expected, but I finally finished Micon:

0ngn2Mhl.jpg


I rushed a little towards the end, but I am satisfied. As always, I struggle with highlighting black cloth, but this time I think I got good results using bluish grey over the edges.
 

Brick

Member
Took longer than expected, but I finally finished Micon:

0ngn2Mhl.jpg


I rushed a little towards the end, but I am satisfied. As always, I struggle with highlighting black cloth, but this time I think I got good results using bluish grey over the edges.

Looks great! I really like the oxidation effect on the metal.
 

Fou-Lu

Member
I am really tempted to start trying out some of the many new mini games that have come out recently. As well as some of those that aren't so new that I've never tried. Perhaps buy a pair of starters or whatever is equivalent for a game, paint 'em up and bring them done to the game shop and see if anyone wants to play.
 

Leunam

Member
Looks great! I really like the oxidation effect on the metal.

Sorry for the late reply, but thanks. :)

I am really tempted to start trying out some of the many new mini games that have come out recently. As well as some of those that aren't so new that I've never tried. Perhaps buy a pair of starters or whatever is equivalent for a game, paint 'em up and bring them done to the game shop and see if anyone wants to play.

Guild Ball is fairly new I think. Really want to give it a try but I can't afford it nor can I find a place that sells it. Violent soccer game is game I've even wanting to play. So much so that I even started designing one.
 

Fou-Lu

Member
Guild Ball is fairly new I think. Really want to give it a try but I can't afford it nor can I find a place that sells it. Violent soccer game is game I've even wanting to play. So much so that I even started designing one.

This is a game I am tempted by too. It looks like a lot of fun and the teams are perfect.
 

Experien

Member
I am very new to painting miniatures and just started on Imperial Assault. Shockingly my first attempt at primer/painting/the rest went well. I went to primer my next set of figures and it went quite bad.

I'm using the Citadel White Spray-On primer. How do I remove it? These are plastic miniatures (if you didn't know). I'm not sure if I should go with the CSC/Super Clean stuff or Purple Power or Simply Green. Which is the easiest and recommendations?

tl;dr recommendations for removing primer on plastic miniatures?
 

Leunam

Member
I really like Simple Green for removing paint on plastics, metals, and resin. However in my experience, primer doesn't come off nearly as easily as layers of acrylic does. Maybe it was just me and you'll have better results, but ultimately I recommend Simple Green.
 
Yea Simple Green has hard time with primers usually, has to soak for long period of time and then you need to really scrub to get it off, but even then lot of primer gets stuck in the detail cracks. Though the paint is usually what you need to remove and not so much the primer part. You can get most off and prime over it.

Why did the primer coat not go well? Did you apply too much ?
 
Sup guys. As a table top rpg fan, I have all the admiration in the world for you guys.

I always see you diaramas at my game store and am amazed.
 

Experien

Member
Yea Simple Green has hard time with primers usually, has to soak for long period of time and then you need to really scrub to get it off, but even then lot of primer gets stuck in the detail cracks. Though the paint is usually what you need to remove and not so much the primer part. You can get most off and prime over it.

Why did the primer coat not go well? Did you apply too much ?

I think I was in a bit of a rush and held the can too close to the miniature. One or two weren't secured to the base so I had to handle them to gt them back on which obviously didn't end well.

My gf thinks it was too much. Parts are a bit bubbly and not smooth.
 

So even though I'm broke as feck, it seems I'm making a Nurgle army.

Painted Gutrot Spume and some Nurglings, working on these Blightkings at the moment. And I've got Plaguebearers and an Exalted Plaguebearer on the table up next. That's almost enough to call an Armies on Parade entry if I can get them done in 10 days and pop 'em down to the local GW.

No idea what the thing the 'tongue' is holding onto is, it kinda looks like a head but the detail is hard to make out so I painted it grey and gave it a crimson wash. I'm sure it's partially digested anyway.

Can't wait to have a game of AoS with this army once I've got them painted. Always fancied a bit of Nurgle. I'd quite like to get some Chaos Warriors and nurgle those up too.
 
I think I was in a bit of a rush and held the can too close to the miniature. One or two weren't secured to the base so I had to handle them to gt them back on which obviously didn't end well.

My gf thinks it was too much. Parts are a bit bubbly and not smooth.

Yea always apply any sprays lightly at a time to avoid any issues, and at a about a foot away. If you can mount the mini onto a stick of some kind to prime, it helps you get all around it. My GF is big into painting for fun, she likes to use a little bit of glue or tape to attach a mini to a bottlecap which she holds onto with a disposable glove. Can just hold up the mini and turn it around while spraying the mini and you can get around most angles. Quick little spurts or spray while constantly moving the mini.

Doing lots of light coats is best rather than doing too heavy and having to strip and redo.

Also after you strip the paint, clean really well with water and dish soap to remove any of the stripping agent from the mini.
 

Experien

Member
Yea always apply any sprays lightly at a time to avoid any issues, and at a about a foot away. If you can mount the mini onto a stick of some kind to prime, it helps you get all around it. My GF is big into painting for fun, she likes to use a little bit of glue or tape to attach a mini to a bottlecap which she holds onto with a disposable glove. Can just hold up the mini and turn it around while spraying the mini and you can get around most angles. Quick little spurts or spray while constantly moving the mini.

Doing lots of light coats is best rather than doing too heavy and having to strip and redo.

Also after you strip the paint, clean really well with water and dish soap to remove any of the stripping agent from the mini.

Looks like I'll go with Simple Green and a toothbrush. I don't have to dilute Simple Green, right? Got plenty of dawn to wash the minis.

We are using sticky-tac (poster puddy?) to attach them to cardboard box. Then we remove from cardboard when try and stick them to some small candle holders.

Thanks!
 

Experien

Member
Used Simple Green, got most of it off but there are a few (or quite a few) primer skids across it that aren't coming off via a brush and warm, soapy water.

Any suggestions? They have been submerged almost 3 days.
 

hunchback

Member
Has anyone played the Hobbit game from GW? Escape from Goblin town is the name I think. Is there much to the game or is it limited regarding armies.
I would really like to build a nice Dwarven army. Should I be looking at a different game?
 
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