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Miniature Gaming-Age (WH40k, Warmachine, Etc.)

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For those who were put off by AoS' lack of points and organised play, GW has listened to the players and will be introducing three methods of play.

Open, which is basically what we have now.
Narrative, which is apparently specific scenarios with specific armies to recreate specific historic battles.

And Matched, a competitive system with points values.

Personally I think this is good for the game. I enjoy AoS in its current form but theres no denying that the lack of points can lead to off-balance games that aren't always very fun. I think this might win over some of the people who previously wouldn't want to play AoS.
 

Fou-Lu

Member
I usually have trouble seeing details on minis primed black :p Personally I prefer going half way and priming grey, but I prefer white over black.

I am actually pretty excited about AoS getting a point system, even if I still think the game needs more changes than that. Plus the fluff really needs that human touch it still lacks.
 

Brakke

Banned
Yeah I always used to do black but I tried grey out recently and I'm never looking back. White I didn't like; you have to be super thorough with your base coat because any bare white patches will be super obvious. A dark grey or black lets you be a little sloppy, and any part you miss just looks like it's in shadow. Good enough for play.

I know some Serious People start with black, then do a light pass with white from above, so the higher parts of the model are brighter to start, you get some of your highlighting for free.
 

Hex

Banned
Do you guys prefer to prime your minis black or white?

I don't know why, but I have trouble seeing details on minis primed white.

All depends on the army and the colors....
My Harlequins I based white.
My Eldar I base grey, same with 40k Thousand Sons and Tzeentch
My Space Wolves / Legion of the Damned/ Raven Guard are all primed black.
Tyranids who are new to me I have settled on grey
Oh and Admech is black. Anything metallic is always black, same reason for 30k Thousand Sons
 
I usually do black primer followed by a heavy white drybrush to bring out detail, define my areas, male it easier for coloring, and add a natural highlight to the base coat.
 
Do you guys prefer to prime your minis black or white?

I don't know why, but I have trouble seeing details on minis primed white.

I go with a neutral gray primer. When I prime Black I can't see shit. When I prime white, most of my models end up looking like they travelled in time from the 80s GW's Paint It All Red era.
 

War Peaceman

You're a big guy.
I usually do black primer followed by a heavy white drybrush to bring out detail, define my areas, male it easier for coloring, and add a natural highlight to the base coat.

To save time, do a zenithal (essentially top down) light spray with white primer after the black primer
 

Faiz

Member
Btw if anyone hasn't seen it Miniature Market said fuck it and went back to 25% off on Privateer Press merch. That makes the new battle boxes $30 on preorder.

Wondering what the fall out will be here. Are they calling PPs bluff? Are they about to get shut out?
 

Fou-Lu

Member
I am really happy with the Cryx changes they've spoiled so far. Some well deserved nerfs, but not without something in exchange. Plus they continue the trend of wanting every unit to have a defined role.
 
Okay, GrimDarkGAF..

I'm just getting into the whole bankruptcy-fuelling hobby after many years appreciating the lore, reading a few books, playing the FFG games, et al (not to mention playing Space marine a TON).

I recently got a deal on a bunch of minis and i'm slowly putting them together.

3 Devastator Squads
2 Razorbacks
and a Freakin' land Raider for 100 Bucks (yes, I'm Well aware that i'm likelty never getting another deal like that ever again).

Thing is i have NO IDEA how to actually make an army yet. :)

The plan is that i'd like to have an Imperial Fists 1000pt that I can field in both 30K and 40K.
Assuming using proxies for the Razorbacks (I.e. a post it note with "THIS IS A RHINO" stuck to it), and going with Siege style gameplay, what would you guys recommend?
 
Okay, GrimDarkGAF..

I'm just getting into the whole bankruptcy-fuelling hobby after many years appreciating the lore, reading a few books, playing the FFG games, et al (not to mention playing Space marine a TON).

I recently got a deal on a bunch of minis and i'm slowly putting them together.

3 Devastator Squads
2 Razorbacks
and a Freakin' land Raider for 100 Bucks (yes, I'm Well aware that i'm likelty never getting another deal like that ever again).

Thing is i have NO IDEA how to actually make an army yet. :)

The plan is that i'd like to have an Imperial Fists 1000pt that I can field in both 30K and 40K.
Assuming using proxies for the Razorbacks (I.e. a post it note with "THIS IS A RHINO" stuck to it), and going with Siege style gameplay, what would you guys recommend?

Edit. I realized my reply might look like just a blunt shopping list. My apologies! The deal you got was great and you can absolutely play some games with an unbound list to try things out. And you can get started with list building right away with BattleScribe etc. before you get your hands on the Codex.

Usual recomended starter army is HQ + two troops and then transports and heavy support / fast attack, so what I wrote below is taking what you have in that direction.

Welcome!

I'm still new to the hobby, but here's a few comments on the 40k side.

- Get the Codex: Space Marines (and possibly the Angels of Death supplement). They have rules and formations for Imperial Fists among some other chapters.

- Get an army builder app. I use BattleScribe.

- You are going to need some tactical marines, maybe two boxes (not sure, use Codex or BattleScribe to plan your list). The Devastator boxes don't give you bits to make basic tactical Marines with boltguns. But the bright side is that you got all the heavy weapons you need to deck your tactical squads with them!

- You're going to need a HQ unit. A captain or a Librarian perhaps.

- If you don't glue in the turrets on the Razorbacks, you can swap the turret for a hatch whenever you feel like running a rhino instead. The boxes come with all the bits needed.

Have fun!
 
Hope y'all like Greenskins because you'll be seeing a lot of Orruk armies coming out of the woodwork in the future with the awesome new models.

Here's a Weirdnob Shaman I painted up today :D

h1JMfUS.jpg


I reckon lots of 40k players will use this as a Weirdboy too.
 
Hope y'all like Greenskins because you'll be seeing a lot of Orruk armies coming out of the woodwork in the future with the awesome new models.

Here's a Weirdnob Shaman I painted up today :D

I reckon lots of 40k players will use this as a Weirdboy too.

Despite planning a Seraphon army i'm mighty tempted by the New Orruk models. Do have anything comparing just how big they are?
 
I don't have any troops yet but this shaman is easily as big as Grukk Face-Rippa for 40k. I'd imagine the regular Brutes are all slightly bigger than a Terminator.

Also, Forge World stepping up their AoS game with this huge new Chaos Dwarf character:
mvBL0ZM.jpg


First available at Warhammer Fest, then coming to the web store. If I had a car and money I'd totally be going to Warhammer Fest, it's only like 20 miles from me.
 
Hi wargamers. I don't war game, but I think you're the best lot to ask, after not getting a response in the tabletop thread.

This concerns paints. I'm looking to begin, for the first time, some painting of my board game miniatures (misc games such as Fury of Dracula, Raptor, Last Night on Earth, Flashpoint). Anywhoo, I heard Vallejo paints were recommended for the hobby. I went ahead and bought a USA Basic Colors Set on Amazon. It has 16 standard colors, and includes black, white, and gold and silver among other colors.
I feel like I should buy another set to expand my palette so I need not mix colors and can reference colors more easily. 16 is a little limiting, but 32 would be great.

My question is, for those who are familiar, and based on the misc figures I'd be painting, what second set should I buy to add to my basic colors selection?

I saw a medieval colors set, but it also includes gold and silver again, and I think black and white.. The Game Colors look attractive, but I don't think I'll be using colors quite so hot and bright.
How about the Earth Tones set?

Or is there another set I ought to get that you'd recommend?

Let me know what you guys think! Thank you!


Edit: I may as well ask about other matters since I'm posing questions.

I bought a black primer, but I see some grey recommendations. Is there really a distinct difference depending on your base coat? Never crossed my mind, but now it does.

I also bought a clear matte finish.. Is that what I generally want, or is glossy better? My thoughts at the time were, 'I don't want them to look too plastic or artificial, so I'd only do gloss on figures or details meant to appear wet.

Other tips for a starting out much appreciated. I should add I'm not too concerned about how they turn out. I've seen some quick intro to painting tutorials on youtube and was impressed with the results, so I mean to say that I don't want to spend an hour on each figure. I'd love to do them a set at a time, maybe a couple hours per set. I imagine it'll be fun though, just hope to avoid being overwhelmed.


Thanks!
 

Brakke

Banned
I'm not familiar with Vallejo specifically but you seem to have your bases covered. One thing that might be missing is a good dark tan/brown for leather? A drop or two of black ink into some of that lighter tan might just solve that tho. It's hard to recommend what you need without knowing what you're working on. Just mix, and accept that you may never match that color again precisely. Get started with that, and then buy based on what you find yourself mixing to create a lot.

The primer color doesn't matter if you do multiple thin layers of base coat over it, which is what you "should" do. However, if you wanna save some time, then you can take advantage of the primer to get started. One layer of thin base will look darker over black than it will over white. If you want a darker or lighter pallets specifically, pick the appropriate primer. Grey splits the difference, you can usually get away with just one or two coats over grey.

As far as beginner tips I suggest a three-step process. 1) base coat all the different materials (eg blue jeans, t shirt, flesh) in their appropriate colors. 2) wash the model all at once in some very thin darker color -- wash will settle into the crevices of the model, gives you some shadow for free. 3) dry brush a highlight. Take a lighter color mix version of each of your materials into your brush, then brush most of it out onto paper, then do a couple quick strokes over the region you want to highlight. If you do this right, the paint will only deposit on raised areas, where the bristles bend and scrape along the model with enough friction to pull off what little paint they hold. Practice 2 and 3 a few times first.

Finally, take advantage of your seams. Paint "lower" areas before "higher", and be sloppy with the low. If you were painting me, you'd do the flesh of my arms quickly, and you'd slop some onto the area that is my shirt. But who cares? You'll do my shirt next. On the shirt, you'll be careful around the sleeve-arm boundary. But you should only need to be careful on that boundary once, not with both the flesh and the shirt colors.
 
I'm not familiar with Vallejo specifically but you seem to have your bases covered. One thing that might be missing is a good dark tan/brown for leather? A drop or two of black ink into some of that lighter tan might just solve that tho. It's hard to recommend what you need without knowing what you're working on. Just mix, and accept that you may never match that color again precisely. Get started with that, and then buy based on what you find yourself mixing to create a lot.

The primer color doesn't matter if you do multiple thin layers of base coat over it, which is what you "should" do. However, if you wanna save some time, then you can take advantage of the primer to get started. One layer of thin base will look darker over black than it will over white. If you want a darker or lighter pallets specifically, pick the appropriate primer. Grey splits the difference, you can usually get away with just one or two coats over grey.

As far as beginner tips I suggest a three-step process. 1) base coat all the different materials (eg blue jeans, t shirt, flesh) in their appropriate colors. 2) wash the model all at once in some very thin darker color -- wash will settle into the crevices of the model, gives you some shadow for free. 3) dry brush a highlight. Take a lighter color mix version of each of your materials into your brush, then brush most of it out onto paper, then do a couple quick strokes over the region you want to highlight. If you do this right, the paint will only deposit on raised areas, where the bristles bend and scrape along the model with enough friction to pull off what little paint they hold. Practice 2 and 3 a few times first.

Finally, take advantage of your seams. Paint "lower" areas before "higher", and be sloppy with the low. If you were painting me, you'd do the flesh of my arms quickly, and you'd slop some onto the area that is my shirt. But who cares? You'll do my shirt next. On the shirt, you'll be careful around the sleeve-arm boundary. But you should only need to be careful on that boundary once, not with both the flesh and the shirt colors.

Awesome advice!

Okay, so mixing is fine.. When you say black ink, do you mean the black paint, or actual ink? Sorry if it's a dumb question.

Concerning the wash, I've seen that you can purchase wash paints.. But I can make a wash myself, right, just a watered down paint, or would it be wise to just buy a wash?


Thanks for the tips!
 
You absolutely can just water down regular paints to make washes, but with the rate I go through Agrax Earthshade and Nuln Oil in particular (brown and black washes respectively) I find it's just easier to buy pots of it. At least that way it's always a uniform colour too.

Ink is watery like a wash, but has a lot more pigment and therefore a stronger colour.
 
You absolutely can just water down regular paints to make washes, but with the rate I go through Agrax Earthshade and Nuln Oil in particular (brown and black washes respectively) I find it's just easier to buy pots of it. At least that way it's always a uniform colour too.

Ink is watery like a wash, but has a lot more pigment and therefore a stronger colour.

That is not technically true. Washes have very different viscosity and surface tensions compared to watered down paints, you will need to dilute your paint with different fluids to get a similar effect. Watered down paints applied as washes will leave you with a very blotchy and uneven surface.

http://theleadheadblog.blogspot.com.tr/2010/07/making-your-own-washes.html
 
Yeah you'll want a medium to get a good wash effect from a normal paint. Honestly those extra tall pots GW makes for their shades now are a blessing in disguise.
 

Fou-Lu

Member
Beasts of War is having a Dark Age week, and Guerrilla Miniature Games has played a couple games of it recently too. Honestly this game looks super interesting to me. There is obviously a lot there in terms of backstory, their new minis are great and the game looks super well built mechanically.
 

Gaz_RB

Member
Man Guildball is my first tabletop game (other than D+D/Pen and Paper games), and i'm having a blast. The community has really blown up here and one of my coworkers sucked me in.
 

Fou-Lu

Member
Guild Ball has impressive momentum, I haven't seen a game blow up like it since Warmachine and Hordes. Malifaux and Infinity were close, but not quite like I have seen with Guild Ball.
 
Yeah you'll want a medium to get a good wash effect from a normal paint. Honestly those extra tall pots GW makes for their shades now are a blessing in disguise.

They are still horribly overpriced. This is my goto for washes, and it's not only 90% compatible with GW washes, also half as expensive: http://shop.thearmypainter.com/products.php?ProductGroupId=8


I hear Secret Weapon washes are also good but they are not as close a match for GW ones I believe.
 
My Imperial Knights: Renegade should show up this afternoon, my brother-in-law and I are splitting it between us (and probably picking up a second box once the first ones are assembled and painted). £45 for a superheavy walker is pretty crazy.

I can't wait to get stuck into building them. I've decided on a close combat, vehicle killing build, my brother-in-law has decided to go long range with the assault cannon and rapid-fire battle cannon.
 

Fou-Lu

Member
I am pretty damn excited for Warhammer Quest, I hope the contents of the box are good and that for once GW will expand a board game. I am also really liking some of the expansion of lore in AoS, now that they are talking about things outside of Stormcasts and Chaos.
 
Looking at the picture to guess what the box might contain we have,from left to right: On the far left is a very odd thing that certainly looks like a Pink Horror but is colored wrong and looks like it is on fire (perhaps it is phasing in?), on the upper left what may be either part of the background or maybe a new beaked worm thing (the monster of the set?), then a classic Warrior Priest with two hammers fighting a Cultist, below them is the long rumored Birdmen (though whether they are a new type of beast men or Tzentchian deamons is unknown) looks like three of them with the red Mohawk being the leader, fighting Ye Olde classic Pit FIghter,next a Stormcast (yawn), Interestingly in between them is the head of something that looks like a Chaos Warrior in the background emerging out of the mist, the Gaunt Summoner is obviously the boss of this thing in the back, going on is what may be the new long rumored Deamon Prince fighting a Fyreslayer and then a another Pink Horror to round things out.

So that is 13-14 possible models right there. I'm curious because the rumor that got the details right the most also said that there would be a new (a)elf and Ogor model to go along with it, which was the part that got me most excited since those are two factions who we have yet to see if their aesthetics have changed. I also curious since the Destruction Grand Alliance book talked about a Silver Tower headed up by a Crystal Sorceress and an Orruk Champion attacking it. I wonder if those are also present.
 

Saiyar

Unconfirmed Member
Looking at the picture to guess what the box might contain we have,from left to right: On the far left is a very odd thing that certainly looks like a Pink Horror but is colored wrong and looks like it is on fire (perhaps it is phasing in?), on the upper left what may be either part of the background or maybe a new beaked worm thing (the monster of the set?), then a classic Warrior Priest with two hammers fighting a Cultist, below them is the long rumored Birdmen (though whether they are a new type of beast men or Tzentchian deamons is unknown) looks like three of them with the red Mohawk being the leader, fighting Ye Olde classic Pit FIghter,next a Stormcast (yawn), Interestingly in between them is the head of something that looks like a Chaos Warrior in the background emerging out of the mist, the Gaunt Summoner is obviously the boss of this thing in the back, going on is what may be the new long rumored Deamon Prince fighting a Fyreslayer and then a another Pink Horror to round things out.

So that is 13-14 possible models right there. I'm curious because the rumor that got the details right the most also said that there would be a new (a)elf and Ogor model to go along with it, which was the part that got me most excited since those are two factions who we have yet to see if their aesthetics have changed. I also curious since the Destruction Grand Alliance book talked about a Silver Tower headed up by a Crystal Sorceress and an Orruk Champion attacking it. I wonder if those are also present.

The WD scans have leaked. There are 6 heroes and 30+ monsters.

Edit: It has 51 miniatures in all, 125 euros.
 
My 40k group is trying to get me also into Warmahordes with the new stuff that is coming.

Thinking of buying the Circle starter box next month. Any tips?
 
Warhammer Quest was my favourite game when I was a young teen, so I'm sooo excited for the new Quest. Gonna have to sell my Xbone to afford it though.
 

Brakke

Banned
My 40k group is trying to get me also into Warmahordes with the new stuff that is coming.

Thinking of buying the Circle starter box next month. Any tips?

I have a lot of Circle. Pretty much one of everything except the medium-based Tharn and the trash infantry (Reeves and Wolves).

Pretty hard to give any advice with MK III so close tho. By "starter box", you mean the new one, right? With the Pureblood and Gorax?
 
I have a lot of Circle. Pretty much one of everything except the medium-based Tharn and the trash infantry (Reeves and Wolves).

Pretty hard to give any advice with MK III so close tho. By "starter box", you mean the new one, right? With the Pureblood and Gorax?

Yeah I think that's the one. One of the new 30€ or so boxes that come next month.

I'm not super into any of the armies, but for 30€ I'm willing to give it a try. Circle looks like I'd get to paint something very different from my Ultramarines at least.
 

Brakke

Banned
Cool yeah. One thing I like about Circle is the diversity within the faction. People usually characterize it as fast and tricksy and that's definitely true, but you could also load up a list with Wolds (the stone golem beasts) and Skinwalkers and field a super high armor brick. That can make it a little tough to know how to grow a force, since the model intersection between one paradigm and another can be small. Or you can just discount the construct side of the faction entirely and still manage to make multiple good lists out of a smaller core of models.

I'm curious to see if they encourage a blending of wolds and fur in the new edition.
 

Palmer_v1

Member
My 40k group is trying to get me also into Warmahordes with the new stuff that is coming.

Thinking of buying the Circle starter box next month. Any tips?

I play Cryx, Circle, Minions, and Mercenaries, in roughly that order.

Circle, for me, was all about being able to hit someone in such a way that they couldn't retaliate in a meaningful way. Generally used their speed to force the battle line as far to their side of the table as possible so I could capture objectives while they tried to catch up. The longer a battle goes for Circle, probably the worse off they are.
 

Fou-Lu

Member
I am still battling with whether or not to start an AoS army. I have a bunch of unassembled Dark Elves, so I am tempted to make an 'Aelf' army with my favorite units across the ranges of High, Dark and Wood Elves. But I also just know of very few people who play AoS in Canada.
 
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