SillyEskimo
Member
That is a great looking Knight. Fantastic job all around.
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Miniature Gaming-Age (WH40k, Warmachine, Etc.)
- Thread starter BattleMonkey
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It's Reyn Time!
Member
Just got two fairly decently painted tactical squads (dark angels), an unassembled tactical squad still on the sprue, three bikers (Black Knights?), four or five Dark Angels characters, the whole Chaos half of Dark Vengeance (twenty cultists, a Lord, five chaos marines and a Hellbrute), five finecast Legion of the Damned still on the sprues, a Land Raider with forgeworld doors, about seventy citadel paints (most barely used, all with at least half the pot left), about a dozen brushes (a mix of army painter and the new citadel ones, about half of which are in really good condition, the other half are usable) a hobby box, a small foam-lined carry case, various modelling powders and base materials, the current 40k rulebook, the current Dark Angels codex, templates, dice, tape measure, wounds markers... I'm sure I'm missing something. All of that for £68.
Absolutely landed.
Absolutely landed.
StaffyManasse
Member
Whoa, I'm jealous!
I got the Renegade box for 99 pounds including shipping, so I'm not complaining.
So most of the Faction Decks for Warmachine/Hordes MKIII do seem to have leaked and are quite easily found. Not directly posting any links, cause I'm not sure what GAF policy on it would be.
The growing sense seems to be that it's kind of a mess. It's starting to feel like nothing got playtested properly, and this is basically a big field test, but they won't call it that because it (rightfully) scares a lot of people off until the game stabilizes. There are currently model combinations that have a reasonable chance to kill you at the top of the first round. So you might spend 10 minutes unpacking and deploying, and then lose without ever rolling a dice.
They also seem to have gone overboard with some of the buffs/nerfs on a faction-wide basis. There were definitely stronger factions in MKII, but everyone was still competetive. Now everyone seems to be flocking to 2-3 factions that can basically shoot other armies off the table with ease.
I've gone from being fairly excited about it, to planning to wait and see how the first balance errata come out.
FWIW, of my 4 armies, Cryx seems to be nerfed badly. Mercs and Minions got buffed a lot. Circle got some odd.. side-grades? They still seem good overall.
The growing sense seems to be that it's kind of a mess. It's starting to feel like nothing got playtested properly, and this is basically a big field test, but they won't call it that because it (rightfully) scares a lot of people off until the game stabilizes. There are currently model combinations that have a reasonable chance to kill you at the top of the first round. So you might spend 10 minutes unpacking and deploying, and then lose without ever rolling a dice.
They also seem to have gone overboard with some of the buffs/nerfs on a faction-wide basis. There were definitely stronger factions in MKII, but everyone was still competetive. Now everyone seems to be flocking to 2-3 factions that can basically shoot other armies off the table with ease.
I've gone from being fairly excited about it, to planning to wait and see how the first balance errata come out.
FWIW, of my 4 armies, Cryx seems to be nerfed badly. Mercs and Minions got buffed a lot. Circle got some odd.. side-grades? They still seem good overall.
It's Reyn Time!
Member
Whoa, I'm jealous!
I got the Renegade box for 99 pounds including shipping, so I'm not complaining.
Ah sweet, you took the plunge! It's pretty daunting when you first see all the sprues in front of you, but you'll see pretty quickly that it's quite a straightforward kit. I think I spent more time trying to decide which Knights to build than actually assembling them. It helps that the instructions are unusually well done for once. None of that Stompa nonsense where nothing is numbered and the pictures of key pieces only look like the real piece if you rotate it for ten minutes. Or the instructions helpfully pointing at where a piece goes by pointing to an out-of-sight area behind the model.
StaffyManasse
Member
Yeah, hard to say no to that price. A real fast lane to those 1850+ points games too.
We split the weapons so that the Chaos guy gets both cannon parts, and I get pretty much whatever else I want. Thinking of building a crusader with the melta and gatling, and perhaps magnetise the latter so I can use a melee choice too.
I'm excited!
How do people know what will have turn one assassination vectors if they don't even know the damn rules of the game smh. Theorymachine remains worst machine.
When grumbles about the card leaks started, I went and joined a couple of those private Facebook faction groups to find the cards and then immediately left all of them because they're such hot messes.
If they've changed something drastic about how you deploy, you may have a point, but every battle report and other rule tidbit indicates you still deploy at 7" and 10", with AD being another 6". I have no idea what other rules could possibly be included that would stop player 1 from shooting into player 2's deployment zone based on the fully spoiled faction cards that are out. If such a rule does exist, than it's on Privateer Press for not quelling the rumors.
It's not even a complicated combo. You just take Sloan, and as many Hunters as you want. Run them all just far enough to shoot whatever you want(cause you can premeasure now), then activate Sloan, cast your shooting buffs, and feat. Now each of those Hunters gets to take a boosted, armor piercing(works on small bases now) attack into your deployment.
It's Reyn Time!
Member
I didn't even know this was an option. Four battle cannon shots per turn? That's insane.
Yeah the price is excellent. A £95 kit, £85 kit and £20 of scenery for ~£90-100 (discount sellers, naturally)? Crazy not to.
If you think it's okay for your non-AD army to get shot to shit top of 1, that's fine. I'm not going to waste time arguing over how ridiculous even the possibility of it is.
The whole thing just screams field test to me. We'll see what happens with the core rules on June 12th, but they've kinda squandered any faith I had in them.
Oh well, there's always Guild Ball.
StaffyManasse
Member
Double battle cannons, just Chaos things I've been told.
We got the kit from an EBay auction for that price.
The Cygnar deck is actually the only one I haven't seen, but from the Cygnar forum it looks like we're talking about a theoretical list of 9 Hunters at POW 6 AP? If "shot to shit" means that the opponent brings a super low volume of attack skew list and kills one and half Khador 'jacks before getting engaged (and this is, I suppose, assuming a totally terrain-free board), then personally I'm not super worried. Sounds like a trap you'd only fall into once.
It's frustrating to get hit at all on the top of 1, sure. Just pretty easy to imagine ways to weather it.
Terrain is one of the mitigating factors I'm hoping comes to light. They've hinted that maybe they want us to use more terrain in general, particularly line of sight blocking terrain. I just don't know how they'll work that with Steamroller Rules. Currently, terrain in tournaments only seems to make a difference about a quarter of the time. Rest of the time, the center of the board is effectively just an open field.
The problem with mitigating that feat is it happens before you can cast any upkeeps, so it's tougher to mitigate, and it still leaves the Hunters pretty far away. I forget what their range is but it's that +2" for Fire Group. Some armies may not even be able to run to engage them in return. Good news is they did lose Parry, so they can't just walk away anymore if you can get them engaged. I'm not saying it can't be countered though. Just saying that I shouldn't NEED to counter something like this. I feel like they missed this interaction in testing, and it's a bug, not a feature. Assuming the core rules don't cover it somehow, of course.
Yeah it looks like they're base RNG 14 + 2 from Kara, which is tough. Can't engage without SPD 7 and Reach, of which I can only think of Satyxis off the top of my head? Or anything Advance Deploy or any Cavalry. It's just real hard to talk about straight line ideal situations because as soon as there's a water feature or a structure on the table or whatever, that's going to bend movement lines and then if you want multiple Hunters hitting the same target there's going to be some trigonometry to make sure more than one of them can get into position.
Hunters w/ Kara sounds like a v strong synergy so I'm sure it'll be A Thing, it's just so hard to know for sure what's degenerate and what's just strong before hitting the table.
Hunters w/ Kara sounds like a v strong synergy so I'm sure it'll be A Thing, it's just so hard to know for sure what's degenerate and what's just strong before hitting the table.
A gunline meta dominated by Ret, Cygnar, and Khador seems to be the expected outcome currently, but we'll see how it shakes out. I kinda hate gunlines in general, though. So boring. I'm probably going to start with Minions. Rask and Arkadius in particular.
I don't hate it. I actually have found myself liking it quite a bit. But that doesn't mean I don't miss the Old World that it killed off.
As for the leaked WM/H decks. All I can say is that my Legion looks like it will play basically the same, but my Retribution got a big boost. But only time will truly tell.
heliconsoul
Member
Quick question Reyn, where did you pick up the base decorations for your knight? They're pretty sweet!
StaffyManasse
Member
I'm not Reyn but I assume they used the parts from the buildings that come in the Renegade box. And I agree, they look great.
Which brings me to these basing kits GW "accidentally leaked"
heliconsoul
Member
Ok. I'm all over that knight base.
StaffyManasse
Member
I like those 32 mm bases too, but I don't think I will be buying them anytime soon because I still have some unfinished plain bases I have bought for all the minis that came with 25 mm ones.
It's Reyn Time!
Member
I'm pretty happy about those bases, I've been telling myself for a while my next arseache job is to rebase all my 25mm wolves and those are just the excuse I need to do it. A spot of snow and they'll do nicely.
Thanks! Like Staffy said they're leftovers from the scenery set which came with the Renegades set. I'm sure you could find an absolute ton of them dirt cheap on eBay since there's always plenty of pieces left over from the imperial scenery sets.
Thanks! Like Staffy said they're leftovers from the scenery set which came with the Renegades set. I'm sure you could find an absolute ton of them dirt cheap on eBay since there's always plenty of pieces left over from the imperial scenery sets.
I found that holding the bottle sideways and rolling it up and down between your hands provides better mixing results than vigorous shaking, and it's easier on the wrists as well.
@Reyn; dude, that Knight is frigging awesome.
SillyEskimo
Member
These 6 Ultra Marines took around 1hr 10 minutes per model so far. I still have to do decals, a few more highlights, basing, and clear coat. So, around 1.5 hours per model when all is said and done.
1.5 x 6 = 9hrs total
Assembly was about 30 minutes. Then priming and first base coat at about 30 minutes. Each additional coat/layer took 20 minutes each (3 layers total). Next up was blacking out. Then its time for gun metal colors and gold. Eyes, and white shoulder pads were next, followed by the grey terminator cruxes and gold highlights.
Like I said earlier, I skipped the traditional Ultra Marine Codex paint scheme in favor of my own, but definitely stayed true to the overall theme. Instead of white helms, I gave them white shoulder pads. I even gave the sergeant a red stripe to signify his rank.
I'm pretty proud of the heavy flamer tip here, which was a really easy to pull off and looks great:
and finally, a pic of the 2 captains next to one another:
So, my Space Hulk project has evolved as follows:
I have decided on a joint strike operation. Ultra Marines and Blood Angels. After these 6 Ultras are completed, then I'm doing all the remaining Blood Angels that came with the boxed set, as well as the thunder hammer wielding terminator sergeant from Deathstorm. After those, I'll paint all the genestealers from Space Hulk.
I think this project will be amazing once complete. The red/blue teams vs a purple enemy should really be a really amazing sight on the table.
After this project, I'm going to do a 10 man tactical squad for each chapter. I have another 5 terminators that I'll likely do as more Ultra Marines, and a few terminator characters that I'll have to decide which side to paint them up for. My tyranid ranks can swell with another 20 genestealers, 2 more brood lords, a carnifex, 20 gaunts, and a hive lord.
Or I may take a break and do those 5 Deathwing Terminators and 10 man tactical from Dark Vengence...
I really like switching between chapters with my painting. It keeps things fresh and I see progress across multiple fronts.
Alcotholic
Banned
I'm just gonna share my new painted mini here!
Excited to get more into Arena Rex!
Excited to get more into Arena Rex!
Risible
Member
A) Great job! Love your work on it.
B) HOLY SHIT is that a nice model!
edit: for those wondering like me, I checked it out and here is the website - http://arenarex.com/collections/all
Some FANTASTIC sculpts.
It's Reyn Time!
Member
The skin on the bull is absolutely fantastic, and that's a bitch of a colour to paint. Love it!
Edit: Those marines are looking excellent for the time you've put into them Eskimo, I wish my marines looked that distinct.
Edit: Those marines are looking excellent for the time you've put into them Eskimo, I wish my marines looked that distinct.
Alcotholic
Banned
Thanks
I'm getting into Arena Rex for a couple reasons:
- The models are gorgeous
- You don't need a whole bunch to play (3-6)
- And games take about 30 minutes to play.
Its like a bite size miniature game. I bought into warhammer and played a bit, but it was overwhelming and a big time commitment. I respect the game and my best friend works for GW in the UK, but its not for me.
I'm very excited to get my other figures.
I'm getting into Arena Rex for a couple reasons:
- The models are gorgeous
- You don't need a whole bunch to play (3-6)
- And games take about 30 minutes to play.
Its like a bite size miniature game. I bought into warhammer and played a bit, but it was overwhelming and a big time commitment. I respect the game and my best friend works for GW in the UK, but its not for me.
I'm very excited to get my other figures.
It's Reyn Time!
Member
Had an absolutely excellent 40k battle this afternoon, playing against my brother-in-law and my nephew. It was an absolute nonsense scenario, basically whoever controlled a single objective at the centre of the table at the end of the game won, it was just an excuse to get my Stompa and our Imperial Knights on the table so we went for list almost entirely made up of walkers.
We both took unbound lists and had no secondary objectives of any kind. They had two Knights, six dreadnoughts and an Iron Priest on a Thunderwolf to even the points out, I had a Stompa, a Gorkanaut and a Morkanaut, two Deff Dreads and six Killa Kans.
Highlights include:
The very first shot of the game (a lascannon fired by a dreadnought from the far side of the table) hitting and immobilising my Gorkanaut, leaving it desperately, feebly trying to shoot at anything which passed into his range/field of vision and utterly failing at everything... but also being one of two models left on the table at the end of the game.
My Stompa taking a horrible Explodes! result from a Knight's thermal cannon and losing 4 hull points... until using the nearby Morkanaut's Kustom Force Field saved it.
The Stompa them successfully charging and killing both Imperial Knights managing to limp away with a single hull point left... only to finally be brought down by a lascannon shot from across the table by the same dreadnought which immobilised my Gorkanaut.
Murderfang living up to his name and utterly humiliating a unit of three Killa Kans and a dreadnought which charged him.
It was a brilliant match - my opponents actually cheered out loud when they brought down the Stompa. I think it's safe to say that dreadnought's getting a promotion to go along with the kill markers they immediately painted on his armour after the game.
We both took unbound lists and had no secondary objectives of any kind. They had two Knights, six dreadnoughts and an Iron Priest on a Thunderwolf to even the points out, I had a Stompa, a Gorkanaut and a Morkanaut, two Deff Dreads and six Killa Kans.
Highlights include:
The very first shot of the game (a lascannon fired by a dreadnought from the far side of the table) hitting and immobilising my Gorkanaut, leaving it desperately, feebly trying to shoot at anything which passed into his range/field of vision and utterly failing at everything... but also being one of two models left on the table at the end of the game.
My Stompa taking a horrible Explodes! result from a Knight's thermal cannon and losing 4 hull points... until using the nearby Morkanaut's Kustom Force Field saved it.
The Stompa them successfully charging and killing both Imperial Knights managing to limp away with a single hull point left... only to finally be brought down by a lascannon shot from across the table by the same dreadnought which immobilised my Gorkanaut.
Murderfang living up to his name and utterly humiliating a unit of three Killa Kans and a dreadnought which charged him.
It was a brilliant match - my opponents actually cheered out loud when they brought down the Stompa. I think it's safe to say that dreadnought's getting a promotion to go along with the kill markers they immediately painted on his armour after the game.
If anyone is on the fence about it, Total War: Warhammer is pretty good so far. They streamlined quite a few aspects so the empire management portions are less fiddly, while the warhammer world has allowed them to get a bit crazier with unit types, which is refreshing.
I'm nearly done with a Dwarven campaign right now. Just have to finish crushing a few more Humans.
I'm nearly done with a Dwarven campaign right now. Just have to finish crushing a few more Humans.
Android18a
Member
Here's the first three heroes I've painted from the new Warhammer Quest. I really like how they came out, and they're so different to what came before. I particularly enjoyed painting the Mistweaver since she's unlike anything I've painted for any game system. She's like a mix of ghost, elf and slaanesh. Really interesting model.
Had a great start to our 3-player campaign in the Silver Tower yesterday too (possibly a 4 player campaign going forward if our third party member can get his girlfriend to play!).
I was the Fyreslayer, my partner the Aelf and our friend was the Knight Questor. Together we fought our way bravely through the first trial (all three of us taking wounds as we crossed the dangerous chasm thanks to our shaky hands in the dice-stacking minigame) to the Gaunt Summoner's lair. It looked pretty bad when the Ogroid Thaumaturge appeared alongside some Tzaangors during the final encounter (we rolled two sets of random event doubles at the start of our turn! Disaster!) but we managed to focus our attacks against the Summoner to end the first trial and win our first piece of the Amulet.
We're looking forward to taking on our second trial soon
Polioliolio
Member
Thought I'd finally jump into painting board game miniatures after thinking about it for a long time, so last night I primed some test dollar store dinos.
I had a few primers,I picked up at different times after reading different suggestions.
One group of Dinos I painted with Krylon Black Gloss Primer.. Another group, I primed with Duplicolor Gray Sandable Primer, and then lastly, a group primed with Duplicolor White Sandable Primer.
I saw discussions concerning priming in black, white, gray. Seemed like many consider Gray the best of both worlds, but then I read someone saying it's the worst of both worlds... Anyway, I thought I'd compare them all. I also heard duplicolor was recommended over Krylon, but I'd like your opinions on that.
Anyway, I primed them last night. I'm sure I put way too much primer on all groups, trying to cover all the exposed color of the figure and losing some visible detail in some spots where I can see I went a little heavy.. I later read a "dusting" is sufficient for priming, so lesson learned there.
So checking on them now, the Krylon primed dinos in Black Gloss look great and feel dry and a little more solid than the figures were. I at first thought I would have less detail in the black, but it seems to look great other than where I sprayed a bit much.. The gloss is probably not necessary though, and might just make the primer thicker, which could result in detail loss later?.. We'll see...
The White and Gray Duplicolor primed dinos... Well they're still sticky to the touch... I'm not sure why. Maybe they need more time to dry? After they were dry enough to move, last night, I put them in an egg carton in my room. Should I have left them outside in the sunlight? I probably put too much paint on, but I didn't go that crazy. I feel like they should be dry by now, but maybe not? Anyway, the detail looks good except, again, where I think I went overboard trying to cover every crevice with a solid coat.
Next will be the painting, and I'm looking forward to seeing how the different groups react to the paint. Maybe I'll use the same colors for each of the groups so I can compare and contrast the results the primer might have affected.
So, I'd love to hear more tips. I plan on base painting. Washing with a citadel wash, then dry brushing, and doing a matte coat in the end. This is all a test, so I'm going to try to not mind when I inevitably mess things up.
But I wanted to ask, if I haven't already, what do you guys prefer in your primer?
Krylon vs Duplicolor... Which one is king? Do you use something different? Does it not matter? How about the fact that the krylon is a gloss primer... does that change anything?
Thanks for the tips!
I had a few primers,I picked up at different times after reading different suggestions.
One group of Dinos I painted with Krylon Black Gloss Primer.. Another group, I primed with Duplicolor Gray Sandable Primer, and then lastly, a group primed with Duplicolor White Sandable Primer.
I saw discussions concerning priming in black, white, gray. Seemed like many consider Gray the best of both worlds, but then I read someone saying it's the worst of both worlds... Anyway, I thought I'd compare them all. I also heard duplicolor was recommended over Krylon, but I'd like your opinions on that.
Anyway, I primed them last night. I'm sure I put way too much primer on all groups, trying to cover all the exposed color of the figure and losing some visible detail in some spots where I can see I went a little heavy.. I later read a "dusting" is sufficient for priming, so lesson learned there.
So checking on them now, the Krylon primed dinos in Black Gloss look great and feel dry and a little more solid than the figures were. I at first thought I would have less detail in the black, but it seems to look great other than where I sprayed a bit much.. The gloss is probably not necessary though, and might just make the primer thicker, which could result in detail loss later?.. We'll see...
The White and Gray Duplicolor primed dinos... Well they're still sticky to the touch... I'm not sure why. Maybe they need more time to dry? After they were dry enough to move, last night, I put them in an egg carton in my room. Should I have left them outside in the sunlight? I probably put too much paint on, but I didn't go that crazy. I feel like they should be dry by now, but maybe not? Anyway, the detail looks good except, again, where I think I went overboard trying to cover every crevice with a solid coat.
Next will be the painting, and I'm looking forward to seeing how the different groups react to the paint. Maybe I'll use the same colors for each of the groups so I can compare and contrast the results the primer might have affected.
So, I'd love to hear more tips. I plan on base painting. Washing with a citadel wash, then dry brushing, and doing a matte coat in the end. This is all a test, so I'm going to try to not mind when I inevitably mess things up.
But I wanted to ask, if I haven't already, what do you guys prefer in your primer?
Krylon vs Duplicolor... Which one is king? Do you use something different? Does it not matter? How about the fact that the krylon is a gloss primer... does that change anything?
Thanks for the tips!
SillyEskimo
Member
Here's the first three heroes I've painted from the new Warhammer Quest. I really like how they came out, and they're so different to what came before. I particularly enjoyed painting the Mistweaver since she's unlike anything I've painted for any game system. She's like a mix of ghost, elf and slaanesh. Really interesting model.
Had a great start to our 3-player campaign in the Silver Tower yesterday too (possibly a 4 player campaign going forward if our third party member can get his girlfriend to play!).
I was the Fyreslayer, my partner the Aelf and our friend was the Knight Questor. Together we fought our way bravely through the first trial (all three of us taking wounds as we crossed the dangerous chasm thanks to our shaky hands in the dice-stacking minigame) to the Gaunt Summoner's lair. It looked pretty bad when the Ogroid Thaumaturge appeared alongside some Tzaangors during the final encounter (we rolled two sets of random event doubles at the start of our turn! Disaster!) but we managed to focus our attacks against the Summoner to end the first trial and win our first piece of the Amulet.
We're looking forward to taking on our second trial soon
These are great. I really like your red knight. The smoke on the elf is great too. I'm going to tackle this same game after I finish with my Space Hulk project.
SillyEskimo
Member
Yup. Matte over gloss. It gives your paint something to adhere to.
I use different colored primers for different tasks. For instance, my Elder are always primed with white because I want the colors to really pop. I can use the same color of red on my Blood Angels (which are primed black) and my Elder, yet they would look quite different next to one another because that base coat really makes a difference.
Primer should be dry to the touch within minutes. Those dinos are probably made from a plastic that doesn't take paint very well.
Polioliolio
Member
Thanks for the opinions.
Maybe I didn't shake the duplicolor enough before spraying.. They're just a bit sticky days later. Leaving then out in the sun in hopes of saving them.
I made a mistake buying the krylon gloss primer. Will look for matte primer next time. Want to give duplicolor another good shot after all the good things said about it (on the internet) but the krylon performed better under the same conditions, for me.. Hmm.
When you guys are spraying, do you do quick shots from the side or are you actually dragging the can across all the minis in a long spray? So do I do "fft..fft...ffft" from the sides across each mini, or do I take an entire row of minis in a single long "fffffffffffffffffffttttttt"
Maybe I didn't shake the duplicolor enough before spraying.. They're just a bit sticky days later. Leaving then out in the sun in hopes of saving them.
I made a mistake buying the krylon gloss primer. Will look for matte primer next time. Want to give duplicolor another good shot after all the good things said about it (on the internet) but the krylon performed better under the same conditions, for me.. Hmm.
When you guys are spraying, do you do quick shots from the side or are you actually dragging the can across all the minis in a long spray? So do I do "fft..fft...ffft" from the sides across each mini, or do I take an entire row of minis in a single long "fffffffffffffffffffttttttt"
SillyEskimo
Member
Ffffffffffffft
Side to side. I stop and shake vigerously between passes.
I'm sure you could find a video turorial on youtube specifically for priming miniatures. It might help if you see someone actually doing it.
Side to side. I stop and shake vigerously between passes.
I'm sure you could find a video turorial on youtube specifically for priming miniatures. It might help if you see someone actually doing it.
War Peaceman
You're a big guy.
Here's the first three heroes I've painted from the new Warhammer Quest. I really like how they came out, and they're so different to what came before. I particularly enjoyed painting the Mistweaver since she's unlike anything I've painted for any game system. She's like a mix of ghost, elf and slaanesh. Really interesting model.
Had a great start to our 3-player campaign in the Silver Tower yesterday too (possibly a 4 player campaign going forward if our third party member can get his girlfriend to play!).
I was the Fyreslayer, my partner the Aelf and our friend was the Knight Questor. Together we fought our way bravely through the first trial (all three of us taking wounds as we crossed the dangerous chasm thanks to our shaky hands in the dice-stacking minigame) to the Gaunt Summoner's lair. It looked pretty bad when the Ogroid Thaumaturge appeared alongside some Tzaangors during the final encounter (we rolled two sets of random event doubles at the start of our turn! Disaster!) but we managed to focus our attacks against the Summoner to end the first trial and win our first piece of the Amulet.
We're looking forward to taking on our second trial soon
What's your recipe for the red armour on the stormcast? It is gorgeous!
Android18a
Member
Thanks, it's actually really simple.
The model was sprayed first with Mephiston Red, then washed all over liberally with Agrax Earthshade. I then used a few thin layers of Mephiston to bring up the armour panels, then used citadel air Wild Rider Red to brighten the edges up (I find the air paints are actually great for this since they're quite thin so you don't get such an obvious edge highlight effect). Lastly a little bit of a bright orange at the sharpest points. That's all
StaffyManasse
Member
Look what the mail brought!
BattleMonkey
Member
I would love to hear how the actual game part of that plays out, and if it will have any type of real support other than just being a one off box set.
StaffyManasse
Member
We might try the dueling rules when we get our Kinights all built up and painted. I'll make a mental note to write down some impressions if/when we do.
You need to try it on hard miniature plastic or metal instead of rubbery toy dinosaurs though. The problem is most likely not with the paint but with the material you're spraying.
It's Reyn Time!
Member
Ace
I hate to mention it again, but building the skeleton and only gluing the arms and armour plates on when everything was fully painted was such a good piece of advice I was given for the two Knights I made. It made painting them a joy.
StaffyManasse
Member
Ace
I hate to mention it again, but building the skeleton and only gluing the arms and armour plates on when everything was fully painted was such a good piece of advice I was given for the two Knights I made. It made painting them a joy.
No worries! That's what I am planning on doing.
I can't wait to start building it proper, but I have to let it rest for a few days since I'm going for a short trip to
What sucks for me about working on an army is that sometimes I come across a new color scheme that is so awesome that I almost wish I had thought of it sooner. I finally settled on a Tau color scheme that I liked after wrestling back and forth between the old Cities of Death colors from one of their featured armies (solid black weapons, tan armor, dark green cloth, dark red marking) and one of the themes from a current book (blue grey, black guns and cloth, yellow and white squad marking).
Now I'm running into the same problem with Ad Mech. I want to do Ryza (Orange) but I've seen killer color combos on Pinterest that blow my mind, tan and blue, teal and red, etc. I'm thinking tan vehicles with orange and light blue markings. The orange for Ryza and the light blue markings for all the plasma weaponry they produce.
It's a good problem to have I think.
Now I'm running into the same problem with Ad Mech. I want to do Ryza (Orange) but I've seen killer color combos on Pinterest that blow my mind, tan and blue, teal and red, etc. I'm thinking tan vehicles with orange and light blue markings. The orange for Ryza and the light blue markings for all the plasma weaponry they produce.
It's a good problem to have I think.
Android18a
Member
Working my way through Warhammer Quest Here's my Warpriest:
Also, on the side I'm gonna try to gradually rebase my Wood Elves and Sylvaneth for AoS since there's some hot new stuff on the way. Here's my Treeman enjoying his new base:
Here's my Warpriest:
Also, on the side I'm gonna try to gradually rebase my Wood Elves and Sylvaneth for AoS since there's some hot new stuff on the way. Here's my Treeman enjoying his new base:
