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Miniature Gaming-Age (WH40k, Warmachine, Etc.)

Risible

Member
Looking great, the quest is going well! Lot's of exp!

A small follow-up for this quest step if you don't want to start the next step yet: Maybe look into highlighting some of the warts and stuff a bit more to really make it nasty? And maybe make the face a bit more fleshy to differentiate it from the brass trimmings? :)

Will do, thanks for the comments and advice!
 

oktarb

Member
There is a metric ton of painting advice and tutorials out there. You could spend all your time "learning" to paint. Like most things in life the first step is to just paint. The fact that you got through that model already speaks volumes. Painting, paint, paint, refine, paint.
 
Started a new project!

I give you the scarred wasteland of planet Hope.

fftB9xB.jpg


Doing three (or four if I feel like it) 2 by 4 feet pieces I can swap how I want. Plus hills and rocks.
 
Good start. Looks playable too, which is the most important thing.

Thanks. I tried to keep most of the space more or less flat for minis to stand on. Going to make one or more placeable bridges too. The dried river bed will the only major land formation on the table itself. Everything else will be modular hills and ruins.
 

Ledsen

Member
Looks very cool, although the "scars" all seem unnaturally straight, like you've done straight lines with a knife (which I assume you did, although you don't want it to look like it!) Maybe try doing a bit more random ones ? Good job though looks great.
 
Looks very cool, although the "scars" all seem unnaturally straight, like you've done straight lines with a knife (which I assume you did, although you don't want it to look like it!) Maybe try doing a bit more random ones ? Good job though looks great.

You are right about the scars being too straight. Didn't see it myself but you are absolutely correct. Too bad I might be too far gone already - got the 2nd piece "scarred" already and waiting paint. If I change the style now it might end up looking too different.

Guess I have to come up with a grimdark story to those unnaturally straight scars that litter the face of Hope.

Perhaps a planet hidden in a warp storm succumbed into population wide heresy with cultists everywhere trying to make shrines the size of continents just to end up being bombarded to oblivion when Hope re-emerged from the warp and cought the eyes of the Empire.

Edit.

2nd piece done

 

Wray

Member
Hello all. Just found this thread this week. Really happy we have a neogaf thread we can talk about miniture painting.

Anyway. I just got into the hobby last summer when age of sigmar launched. Been practicing at painting ever since. Slowly getting better. I got some questions and would love some advice.

1. Anybody got any good recommendations on brushes for layering and very small detail. I have some really good Winsor Newton Size 0 and Size 1 brushes that I love the shit out of. But a lot of the time I just need to go smaller when doing highlights and fine detail. Any really good brushes to recommend that are smaller then size 0?

2. My bane so far has been painting human skin and making it look convincing. Any pro tips to share? I've watched countless YouTube videos already. My current technique is to prime white. Then without any basecoating do a heavy wash of Reikland Fleshshade over the white primer. Then layer on Cadian Fleshtone. Then 50/50 Cadian/Kislev Flesh. Then Kislev Flesh for a last one. Seems promising so far but I need to get better.

I've also had mixed results with this recipe. Base in Cadian Fleshtone. Wash in 50/50 mix of Reikland Fleshshade and Liquidex Matt medium. Layer with Cadian again. Then carefully wash just the recesses with first a watered down mix of Carrosburg Crimson. Then after a watered down mix of Druchii Violet. I tend to get really mixed results though when washing just the crevices after doing highlighting. Sometimes it looks awesome and sometimes the wash dries too blotchy and if looks like shit.

Also. What are everyone's favorite Flesh Washes?
 

Leunam

Member
I have Windsor Newtons size 00 and 000 for detailing. Some people have told me that 000 isn't all that necessary but I've found use for it plenty of times.

As for painting flesh I went from using washes to straight up layering. Here are some previous efforts:


When I used washes for skin I used to use Flesh Wash, I even still have that pot. I think the current equivalent is Reikland Fleshshade.

As for the skin recipe, the only one I wrote down is for the gladiator with the caestus. All paints are Citadel and mixes are 50:50.

Rhinox Hide
Doombull Brown
Doombull Brown:Tuskgor Fur
Tuskgor Fur:Bugmans Glow
Bugmans Glow:Kislev Flesh

It gives a tan skin result which is what I'm going for with gladiators. If you want lighter skin just go with an additional layer of pure Kislev Flesh. If you are worried about gradients, just use a layer of pure Tuskgor Fur or Bugmans Glow between mixes. This has worked for me and I've got a second gladiator completed using this process and a third on the blue tack ready to get some basecoating.
 

Ohnonono

Member
I have got to finish assembling some of my stuff. Got sidetracked with the new Monster Hunter eating my free time. Need to just have a dedicated hobby night.
 

Wray

Member
As for painting flesh I went from using washes to straight up layering. Here are some previous efforts:


Wow those gladiators look pretty nice! What game are they from? Thanks for all the advice. I never thought about trying to do flesh without any washes at all. I think I'm going basecoating in Bugmans Glow and then highlighting up from there, since I've thought about making a Bugmans Glow wash. Speaking of which, any good tops for making your own custom wash from a paint? Is Lahmian Medium any good for that?
 

Leunam

Member
Thanks.

The first guy is Goldar the Barbarian from Reaper Miniatures, the second one is a Dark Apostle used from the Chaos/Dark Angels starter set who I intend to use for my Word Bearers, and the last one is Micon from Arena Rex. I've finished another since then who I hope to post on here but my main camera on my phone is busted.

As for washes, if you have a color you really like you can either find the closest approximation or make your own by watering a color down and adding dish soap. A tiny amount is what people would add to help it flow into the recesses better. I've never personally done this myself, so be warned, but just water and paint could do the trick. Washes are different from regular paints, so you may not get the desired results. I'd test it out on a test mini.

I'm not sure if that's what Lahmian Medium is for, it might be. I bought it to flatten glossy surfaces after applying decals.
 

Fou-Lu

Member
Really hoping when I move next weekend that I'll be able to find a group in Ottawa to play with that plays a game I am interested in. I've heard they have 40k and Infinity there, but not sure what else. I'd prefer not to go back to 40k, but Infinity is a possibility.
 

Went to Warhammer World for the first time on Saturday, loved it. Picked up this guy from the Forge World store since he's an exclusive and was only £18, same price as the average plastic hero kit these days so not too bad considering its FW (or is it that GW's prices are just insane now? I forget!).

Went together really easily, and it was really fun to paint. Almost tempted to gradually buy Chaos Dwarfs. If I just buy a few each time I visit WHW I might have a 500 point army by 2026!
 

Leunam

Member
ForgeWorld Chaos Dwarves are awesome, love the helmet designs. I have a soft spot for helmets that don't display facial features so those hit the spot for me.

Has anyone here put time into Guild Ball? I'm slowly learning the rules but the models aren't really my thing. For me, some of the models are great, some are pretty bad. I'd like to hear some experiences from people on here about how the game plays though. I may end up just going the Blood Bowl route and using the rules of Guild Ball but setting it in an alternate reality where the Horus Heresy was just an inter legion soccer/football league and not a galaxy spanning war. I've got lots of unassembled Marines I could use to make five man teams of Ultramarines, Word Bearers, Iron Hands, and Emperor's Children.
 

Palmer_v1

Member
ForgeWorld Chaos Dwarves are awesome, love the helmet designs. I have a soft spot for helmets that don't display facial features so those hit the spot for me.

Has anyone here put time into Guild Ball? I'm slowly learning the rules but the models aren't really my thing. For me, some of the models are great, some are pretty bad. I'd like to hear some experiences from people on here about how the game plays though. I may end up just going the Blood Bowl route and using the rules of Guild Ball but setting it in an alternate reality where the Horus Heresy was just an inter legion soccer/football league and not a galaxy spanning war. I've got lots of unassembled Marines I could use to make five man teams of Ultramarines, Word Bearers, Iron Hands, and Emperor's Children.

I play Guildball pretty often. It's taken over my local meta after the Warmachine mkIII shitshow. Probably 20 or so fairly regular players locally.

I like that it's super cheap to get into, doesn't have super complicated rules, and plays relatively quickly. Everything is also available online, including the ability to print paper dolls to use, if you're unsure about the game and want to test it first. I can't comment on the models overall, cause I play for the rules and community, not the models. The fluff is also whatever, but after years of terrible Warmachine fluff, it's kind of refreshing to see them just brutally kill off characters.

The most unique thing to me in this game is the way the playbooks on each character works. It's two rows of options, and the dice you roll determine which options are available to you for that attack. So if you have 5 successes, you can choose 1 of the first 5 options. It means you'll almost always accomplish SOMETHING with each roll, it just might not be the exact result you were after.

Other mechanical things in it's favor(IMO) is alternating turns, i.e. I activate one player, than you activate one, and repeat until everything has activated once. Every character also has a health pool, so their fate is never decided by one lucky roll, and even after they lose all of their health, you can bring them back onto the pitch on future turns, though with reduced health, depending on how long you left them out of the game. There's also no permanent injuries.

You only need a 3x3 space to play, so it takes up very little table space. Terrain is fairly simple and typically sparse anyway. I do suggest getting a playmat, cause it's nice to have the predrawn goals, deplyment lines, etc.

We tend to play as though it were a tournament, so you'd typically show up on game day with your team of 8 players. 1 Captain, 1 Mascot, and 6 players. You then choose 4 of those 6 once you know who you're playing.

I play Brewers currently, and will probably pick up the Farmers once they are released.

I typed more than I meant to. Any specific questions?
 

Leunam

Member
That's a lot of insight, thanks a ton.

Though I'm not a big fan of the art, as I've said, going purely by appearances I was thinking of starting with Masons and Butchers, and maybe expanding into Alchemists and Fishermen.

Would you say that the blurbs on the website are accurate based on your own experience? Masons and Butchers seem like good introductions. Are the starter sets good or are there one or two players who should be replaced? I didn't see point values, so I'm guessing it only goes by model count, is the game pretty balanced in that regard that characters are fairly interchangeable while still being fair? Do you prefer to play with or without terrain? I love building terrain (Arena Rex board almost done) but a sports-combat game with terrain seems odd to me. The rulebook says it plays fine without it but I wonder if it really adds another level to the game that's worth exploring.

Thanks again for the reply.
 

Palmer_v1

Member
That's a lot of insight, thanks a ton.

Though I'm not a big fan of the art, as I've said, going purely by appearances I was thinking of starting with Masons and Butchers, and maybe expanding into Alchemists and Fishermen.

Would you say that the blurbs on the website are accurate based on your own experience? Masons and Butchers seem like good introductions. Are the starter sets good or are there one or two players who should be replaced? I didn't see point values, so I'm guessing it only goes by model count, is the game pretty balanced in that regard that characters are fairly interchangeable while still being fair? Do you prefer to play with or without terrain? I love building terrain (Arena Rex board almost done) but a sports-combat game with terrain seems odd to me. The rulebook says it plays fine without it but I wonder if it really adds another level to the game that's worth exploring.

Thanks again for the reply.

For terrain, the idea is supposed to be that these matches can break out damn near anywhere. Like the town square is open enough to play match, but maybe someone left a cart of hay in the way a bit, or there's that pesky well that's always in the middle. For tournaments and sanity's sake, they have guidlines on how big each type of terrain should be. 2x2" is about the largest thing. In general, you have "rough" terrain, which is maybe a patch of mud that slows people down, but doesn't otherwise block the players or ball at all. There's also fast terrain, which is typically relegated to the edges of the pitch, and grant movement bonuses. No real explanation of how/why, so i typically go the cartoon route and say they're patches of ice. Then you have low cover, which gives some defensive benefits if you're near it, affects the ball to some degree, but can be otherwise moved over. Think like a low wall. A loose ball won't go over it, but you could pass over it, and jump it easily. Then high cover. You still get bonuses for being near it, but it's something tall like maybe a statue, so you can't move over it or pass the ball through it. Finally you have forests, which can block line of sight, and have both positives and negatives for being inside them, but most teams will just avoid them.

The general idea is having a pitch that makes sense. You don't want terrain that is going to negate a large portion of the field or make it impossible to move the ball.

I can post more about the teams/players in a bit, but I do think Masons and Butchers are decent intoductory teams. Masons are very well rounded and can play to different styles as needed. Their biggest weakness is probably the lack of ranged character plays, meaning some opponents can try to whittle you down from a distance. Butchers are a bashy team that focuses on offense, so they're fairly straight forward. Fishermen are the exact opposite, and are probably the best scoring team overall. Alchemists are a bit odd and kind of complicated. They rely on a lot of conditions and ranged character plays.

Edit:

Oh, I do suggest using terrain in general, cause it gives second player an advantage in that they get to pick the side of the board that benefits them the most. There are also a decent number of abilities in the game that require terrain to be present, else you're basically not getting full use of your model.
 

Leunam

Member
That's all been really helpful. When I'm finally ready to make the jump, I'll be buying the Mason and Butcher starter sets.
 

Leunam

Member
Wonder how Ordo Xenos is going to work. The old justification was that they were specialists and didn't deploy in large numbers, more like allies.
 
The heavy bolter + heavy flamer combi heavy weapon seems pretty crazy.

Looks like I'll have to come up with rules for a power armored Kill Team in Space Hulk!
 

Leunam

Member
I was just reminded that there's a Batman and a Marvel heroes miniature game. Too expensive to get into at the moment, but maybe after Guild Ball and some other projects are wrapped up.
 
Wonder how Ordo Xenos is going to work. The old justification was that they were specialists and didn't deploy in large numbers, more like allies.

I'd definitely expect a change in the fluff for how Deathwatch operate. The grizzled guy with the custodes halberd looks like he may be a captain or even chapter master so I wouldn't be surprised if they operate in forces of that size.

Not a lot of variety in the units availble, basically elite, the more elite, and the more elite in terminator armour or on bikes. I'm guessing a large number of options is where the units get to differentiate themselves.
 
very cool - simple but effective!

how did you make those?

Thanks, I'm pretty happy. First game on my board is taking place in couple days.

It's the thickest foamboard I could find (I used a product called Finnfoam), cut with a knife and saw, gently melted with hot air, spray painted with water based (normal spray would melt it) black paint and finally generously drybrushed with grey. Very light but durable.

You haven't posted for a while. How are your orks?
 
Any real high quality shots of the new FFG Rune Wars miniature game figs? Interested to see how this turns out, their previous attempts at miniature games until X-Wing were disasters, and no sure if the Runewar world is gonna light the world on fire.
 

Draxal

Member
Any real high quality shots of the new FFG Rune Wars miniature game figs? Interested to see how this turns out, their previous attempts at miniature games until X-Wing were disasters, and no sure if the Runewar world is gonna light the world on fire.

No real hq shots that I've seen, although I've seen some vids by the usual suspects. Miniatures look descent scale, so YMMV on that.
 

Mikeside

Member
Thanks, I'm pretty happy. First game on my board is taking place in couple days.

It's the thickest foamboard I could find (I used a product called Finnfoam), cut with a knife and saw, gently melted with hot air, spray painted with water based (normal spray would melt it) black paint and finally generously drybrushed with grey. Very light but durable.

You haven't posted for a while. How are your orks?

It's been a crazy few months, to be honest!
My partner and I bought a house and are doing all the decorating etc - starting with her dressing room of course, haha!

So, I've not really had time for 40k or board games, but I've just ordered the Skitarii get collecting box & a cheap Imperial Knight off ebay. Orks will play second fiddle for a while, until there's a new codex - I don't know if they're just severely underpowered or if I'm just not very good with them, but even when I won games it felt like I did it despite my Orks, instead of with them.


The main thing is going to be that with these Skitarii, I'm going to take painting a bit more seriously & get them looking great (to my standards, not yours! :p) before I put them on the table.

I also just ordered a load of 5mm foam board to start making some scenery too, so hopefully that'll be fun :)
 
It's been a crazy few months, to be honest!
My partner and I bought a house and are doing all the decorating etc - starting with her dressing room of course, haha!

So, I've not really had time for 40k or board games, but I've just ordered the Skitarii get collecting box & a cheap Imperial Knight off ebay. Orks will play second fiddle for a while, until there's a new codex - I don't know if they're just severely underpowered or if I'm just not very good with them, but even when I won games it felt like I did it despite my Orks, instead of with them.


The main thing is going to be that with these Skitarii, I'm going to take painting a bit more seriously & get them looking great (to my standards, not yours! :p) before I put them on the table.

I also just ordered a load of 5mm foam board to start making some scenery too, so hopefully that'll be fun :)

Yeah, real life can get in the way of these things. My hobby time could decrease alot in the coming months but I hope I can squeeze some 40k in there somewhere. Having a board at home helps I think.

And shush, I'm sure your Skitarii will look great. Those are some cool minis!

And my foam board is 70 mm thick, up your game lol. :)
 

Mikeside

Member
Yeah, real life can get in the way of these things. My hobby time could decrease alot in the coming months but I hope I can squeeze some 40k in there somewhere. Having a board at home helps I think.

And shush, I'm sure your Skitarii will look great. Those are some cool minis!

And my foam board is 70 mm thick, up your game lol. :)

They're gonna be really finnicky to paint, but I think I can get them looking alright.

I'm hoping to model some architecture and stuff with the 5mm - my plans had to change when I couldn't find anything significantly thicker for particularly cheap!
 
They're gonna be really finnicky to paint, but I think I can get them looking alright.

I'm hoping to model some architecture and stuff with the 5mm - my plans had to change when I couldn't find anything significantly thicker for particularly cheap!

Yeah, the 70mm stuff was not cheap. I'm hoping the board will last and I get a lot of entertainment from those euros.

5mm is probably good for buildings and stuff I agree. Post what you make!
 
Team Covenant has their demo of Rune Wars the miniature game up now.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yOfmW-vTK74

I'm kinda worried about the pricepoint for the game (as all those minis are in the big box for 100).

Unless the minis are amazing, I can't see the heavier war gamers getting into it, and price is gonna put it out of casual reach.... and the Runewars IP is not exactly a big deal either.

It looks like you get a good amount of stuff, if anything looks like more than what you got with Armada for similar price.
 

Faiz

Member
So after much hemming and hawing over what miniatures to start with my wife got me both the Age of Sigmar starter set and Silver Tower for my 40th birthday this past weekend. I'm in the process of getting a few supplies together to start building this coming weekend to hopefully have as many ready for priming as possible when the weather is right for it.
 
So after much hemming and hawing over what miniatures to start with my wife got me both the Age of Sigmar starter set and Silver Tower for my 40th birthday this past weekend. I'm in the process of getting a few supplies together to start building this coming weekend to hopefully have as many ready for priming as possible when the weather is right for it.

Going all in. I love it. Don't let the sheer volume of miniatures intimidate you. Just take them either one at a time, or one unit at a time.
 
So after much hemming and hawing over what miniatures to start with my wife got me both the Age of Sigmar starter set and Silver Tower for my 40th birthday this past weekend. I'm in the process of getting a few supplies together to start building this coming weekend to hopefully have as many ready for priming as possible when the weather is right for it.

Silver Tower is a great game. I've started working through painting the minis myself.

Ogroid Thaumaturge

Knight-Venator (from the Hero Expansion pack)
 

PittaGAF

Member
(Long time lurker)

Today I went all in too.
Resistance is futile.

I drooled over dioramas in shops since the 80, lost my copy of Warhammer Quest long ago (still hurts) with miniatures painted by a friend of mine.
So.....like 30 years later I told myself....why not?

Bought Silver Tower....never assembled anything in my life besides Lego with my son.
Two days later I was playing it, and fell in unconditional love with the game.

Still....I never painted anything in my life, I always used to draw people with sticks, etc....
So we played almost all campaign with unpainted minis (which are still amazing, mind you).

Today...I went in a GW store and painted my first mini all by myself...to see how shitty it can get.
Actually I liked the result, had two hours of great fun, bought colors, primer and everything and tomorrow I'll start painting Silver Tower.
I must confess I never believed what I always read: even a so and so painted miniature is much better than an unpainted one on the board...and it's true.
They really come alive.

I feel like I slipped in a deep rabbit hole but.....

 

PittaGAF

Member
Thanks.
Yeah...I think it was the first time I actually had in my hands a brush.
If I did it, everyone can.

I must say I was happy with the result even before applying a shade (I used Nuln Oil) but the shade really added a ton of details.
I even tried the dry method as I saw some GW videos about it, but while cool it didn't made a ton of difference (probably due to my incompetence).
Shades are super easy to do and make a ton of difference...everything looks so lively and straight from the battlefield.

I obviously still have to complete it, starting from the base...so your videos will come handy, thanks!!!
 

Brakke

Banned
Impressive first effort! Definitely hits "good enough" (and I mean that as a compliment) if he's part of a unit of dudes like him.
 
I must confess I never believed what I always read: even a so and so painted miniature is much better than an unpainted one on the board...and it's true.
They really come alive.

I feel like I slipped in a deep rabbit hole but.....

Yeah, it's very true. My paint jobs look horrible in pictures or up-close. But most of the time you are playing with them is from like 2-3 feet away on the table. At that distance, you can't really see all the little times I fucked up and they look amazing.
 
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