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NeoGAF Photography & Camera Gear Community
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Deleted member 17706
Unconfirmed Member
That's fantastic. Do you do photography professionally?
JORMBO
Darkness no more
I used to do a mixture of a lot of different things - shooting for fun or pay, selling prints, running lighting workshop, galleries, etc. Never a full time profession though. I haven't shot too much in the past 2 years. Models today mostly just want quick Instagram glam stuff, which I got bored of shooting a long time ago.
chilichote
Member
I prefer to take close-up pictures of insects, plants, flowers:
Chankoras
Member
Canon glass? Seems like is a similar focal range, but not familiar with the quality between them.
I've seen some good deals in Reddit r/photomarket
Chankoras
Member
Good general purpose lens, what kind of photography?
Chankoras
Member
Love me some detailed files, but the downside is you need some
to process.
Chankoras
Member
it should be a low light monster!
Bo_Hazem
Banned
You should use our beloved, old flickr. I've been on flickr since 2009 but stopped interacting there since years now, but have like 6500+ geotagged photos there. It can take up to 100MP.
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Bo_Hazem
Banned
Raw shot by the drone (Phantom 4 Pro), did a quick modification on Polarr app. Didn't correct the lens bend so flat-eathers don't kill me, even though earth is not flat.
Location: Jibjat, Mirbat, Dhofar, Oman. This location has seen the last Asiatic cheetahs in the Arabian Peninsula in 1977, sadly.
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Chankoras
Member
Nice capture, is it difficult to fly those drones?
Raw shot by the drone (Phantom 4 Pro), did a quick modification on Polarr app. Didn't correct the lens bend so flat-eathers don't kill me, even though earth is not flat.
Location: Jibjat, Mirbat, Dhofar, Oman. This location has seen the last Asiatic cheetahs in the Arabian Peninsula in 1977, sadly.
Bo_Hazem
Banned
I'm still rookie, yet I've been told by Oman TV that I must have aerial footage with my small documentaries so rushed and got one and flied one after minor basic tips from my friend on the fly in field and started flying. I would say it's easy to start shooting with them but it's kinda hard to master. Still learning:
This was me using sport mode, pretty hard to avoid minor shakes while filming at 4K@60fps instead of 24fps.
Chankoras
Member
Nice footage, wanted to get one but lately seen more restrictions on where you can fly etc, went to Morocco for holiday, witnessed some other traveler having his drone taken away in customs, despite that, still want to get one.
Bo_Hazem
Banned
Yeah they're getting restrictive here as well, it can get you up to 10,000 OMR fine ($26,000) and 1 year in jail. That harsh one is mostly for flying it around the airport or above military camps. When you use it in the wild mostly police give a blind eye as plenty are filming in a daily basis without organized licenses so far. KSA did a wonderful job of giving you a license for like 250 Saudi Rials (I think around $63).
Here is one of my early ones:
It was actually dark, just after sunset, had to push the exposure 1+ or 2+, I don't remember.
Chankoras
Member
That's great video, beautiful place!
D
Deleted member 17706
Unconfirmed Member
Looks like a damn fantastic camera. I'm surprised how much effort Sony put into it.
This video does a pretty deep dive and really made me want one.
Bo_Hazem
Banned
It appeals mostly to videographers first, photographers second. I can live with 12MP for photography, but 4K@120fps 10-bit internally opens a new horizon for me, especially for bird videography and slowmo when they fly!
Bo_Hazem
Banned
Man, this guy is pure quality, I remember his first version, what a wonderful video it was, and this one just puts it into shame with the dramatic slomo! It's always better to have a hi quality audio recorder in case the 4K@120fps doesn't record sound. This is like a dream come true, an expensive one though but worth every penny.
Yams
Member
Yeah it is very clearly aimed at videographers. It's low light capabilities look amazing but I'd much rather go for something with more resolution, especially because modern cameras already do very well in low light. It's very rare that I shoot anything above 1600 ISO. If I wasn't already bought into the Nikon system I'd definitely consider something from Sony though They put out some great cameras.
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Bo_Hazem
Banned
Yup, it's critical for night videography/videography of owls, animals, and when we have bad light during monsoon season with no sun at all and thick layers of clouds. I can see myself doing 100-400K ISO, but it's not for everyone, I would say that a new A7 4 would be more mainstream for most with just 4K@60fps.
To me, this is just a dream, I was dreaming of FX9 camcorder sensor capability and it was spot on. It's 30% photography except if low light is very critical for you, but 70% videography. I still think that a7R mark 4 is the king of photography so far.
Yams
Member
Probably. If we're talking about pure image quality then the Nikon D850 or Z7 get the closest. They use a Sony sensor so it makes sense. Maybe the Canon R5 will pull within reach but I don't think the sensor data is in yet. Apparently it uses a similar sensor as the 1D X Mark III which is very good but doesn't quite have the same dynamic range or colour depth as the three mentioned above. We'll see soon enough.
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Bo_Hazem
Banned
There is a wonderful mode that makes I think 240 megapixel image mode in a7R mark 4 through several image construction, but needs static image with no movement for the best results.
Amazing photography
I can't come close to the artistic ability shown here. My own humble contribution. The Gabriela Mistral Nebula (star cluster in the top right corner is NGC3293), observable from southern hemisphere. I have largely mastered the technical aspects of image acquisition. but need to improve in the image processing aspects.
Photo was captured with a ZWO ASI1600MM monochrome camera, using LRGB filters. Telescope used was a small 80mm refactor. Total exposure times was 2hrs approximately.
I can't come close to the artistic ability shown here. My own humble contribution. The Gabriela Mistral Nebula (star cluster in the top right corner is NGC3293), observable from southern hemisphere. I have largely mastered the technical aspects of image acquisition. but need to improve in the image processing aspects.
Photo was captured with a ZWO ASI1600MM monochrome camera, using LRGB filters. Telescope used was a small 80mm refactor. Total exposure times was 2hrs approximately.
Bo_Hazem
Banned
Amazing photography
I can't come close to the artistic ability shown here. My own humble contribution. The Gabriela Mistral Nebula (star cluster in the top right corner is NGC3293), observable from southern hemisphere. I have largely mastered the technical aspects of image acquisition. but need to improve in the image processing aspects.
Photo was captured with a ZWO ASI1600MM monochrome camera, using LRGB filters. Telescope used was a small 80mm refactor. Total exposure times was 2hrs approximately.
That is insanely good! What a diverse thread! Thank you for sharing, I love space!
Chankoras
Member
That very good!Amazing photography
I can't come close to the artistic ability shown here. My own humble contribution. The Gabriela Mistral Nebula (star cluster in the top right corner is NGC3293), observable from southern hemisphere. I have largely mastered the technical aspects of image acquisition. but need to improve in the image processing aspects.
Photo was captured with a ZWO ASI1600MM monochrome camera, using LRGB filters. Telescope used was a small 80mm refactor. Total exposure times was 2hrs approximately.
How is the process? Do you have to take separate pictures with each filter? If so what software for image composite?
It can get a bit involved but the basic workflow is:
1. Polar align the telescopic mount to the celestial pole (perhaps most important step)
2. Fix on a target - gets easier and easier with practice, especially if step 1 ok.
3. Most setups have a guide scope with small guide camera in addition to the main imaging rig. The guide camera gets calibrated to a guide star.
Most people use PhD2 guiding software. This is remarkable software - it effectively takes over and tracks the star as it moves across the sky. I would do this manually, but in freezing conditions it gets too much
. Age is catching up. Software is for Windows, Mac and Linux PHD2 software4. To control the main imaging camera - there are a few choices. I change depending on what camera I go with. If I use an SLR (Canon or Nikon) I go with BackyardEOS or BackyardNikon from O'Telescope. Of course, you don't have to use specialised software. I started with stock software that came with my first EOS (or even just use the camera itself with no software!).
If I use my main imaging camera, the ZWO ASI1600MM. I use an awesome application called Sequence Generator Pro. If offers total control over CMOS chip temp (say getting it down to -15C), unity gain, LRGB filter, image focus and so forth.
5. I usually take exposures up to 2min per filter. Usually in the ratio of 3 luminance, 1 Red, 1 Green, 1 Blue. But I tend to experiment there a bit. For a single target I can easily take over 100+ images. Images saved in FITS format.
6. Take all the images and stack (composite) them. There is a lot of software that does this (some excellent free and open source software too), but I stick with one piece of software that is used mainly in astronomy, Pixinsight. It is damn expensive, but they have thankfully stayed off a subscription model. Pixinsight site. If you use just a DSLR, then DeepSkyStacker does an amazing job and is free.
From this point on, I work on stretching the data as much as possible whilst keeping the noise level low. Then follows noise reduction, HDR, removing gradients (a big problem with light pollution
), wavelet transforms etc etc. Much of this could be done in Photoshop though too!Pixinsight is extraordinarily powerful, but sometimes it gets a bit daunting (even though I have been using it for 2years). I've recently stated using Startools. Developed by a local, and way cheaper too. I might switch to it, as it takes out alot of the guess work.
Bo_Hazem
Banned
It can get a bit involved but the basic workflow is:
1. Polar align the telescopic mount to the celestial pole (perhaps most important step)
2. Fix on a target - gets easier and easier with practice, especially if step 1 ok.
3. Most setups have a guide scope with small guide camera in addition to the main imaging rig. The guide camera gets calibrated to a guide star.
Most people use PhD2 guiding software. This is remarkable software - it effectively takes over and tracks the star as it moves across the sky. I would do this manually, but in freezing conditions it gets too much
4. To control the main imaging camera - there are a few choices. I change depending on what camera I go with. If I use an SLR (Canon or Nikon) I go with BackyardEOS or BackyardNikon from O'Telescope. Of course, you don't have to use specialised software. I started with stock software that came with my first EOS (or even just use the camera itself with no software!).
If I use my main imaging camera, the ZWO ASI1600MM. I use an awesome application called Sequence Generator Pro. If offers total control over CMOS chip temp (say getting it down to -15C), unity gain, LRGB filter, image focus and so forth.
5. I usually take exposures up to 2min per filter. Usually in the ratio of 3 luminance, 1 Red, 1 Green, 1 Blue. But I tend to experiment there a bit. For a single target I can easily take over 100+ images. Images saved in FITS format.
6. Take all the images and stack (composite) them. There is a lot of software that does this (some excellent free and open source software too), but I stick with one piece of software that is used mainly in astronomy, Pixinsight. It is damn expensive, but they have thankfully stayed off a subscription model. Pixinsight site. If you use just a DSLR, then DeepSkyStacker does an amazing job and is free.
From this point on, I work on stretching the data as much as possible whilst keeping the noise level low. Then follows noise reduction, HDR, removing gradients (a big problem with light pollution
Pixinsight is extraordinarily powerful, but sometimes it gets a bit daunting (even though I have been using it for 2years). I've recently stated using Startools. Developed by a local, and way cheaper too. I might switch to it, as it takes out alot of the guess work.
Man, that's beyond me, but it's wonderful to share such knowledge here! Might one day find it useful and follow your steps
Chankoras
Member
Thanks for explaining the process, very cool stuff.It can get a bit involved but the basic workflow is:
1. Polar align the telescopic mount to the celestial pole (perhaps most important step)
2. Fix on a target - gets easier and easier with practice, especially if step 1 ok.
3. Most setups have a guide scope with small guide camera in addition to the main imaging rig. The guide camera gets calibrated to a guide star.
Most people use PhD2 guiding software. This is remarkable software - it effectively takes over and tracks the star as it moves across the sky. I would do this manually, but in freezing conditions it gets too much
4. To control the main imaging camera - there are a few choices. I change depending on what camera I go with. If I use an SLR (Canon or Nikon) I go with BackyardEOS or BackyardNikon from O'Telescope. Of course, you don't have to use specialised software. I started with stock software that came with my first EOS (or even just use the camera itself with no software!).
If I use my main imaging camera, the ZWO ASI1600MM. I use an awesome application called Sequence Generator Pro. If offers total control over CMOS chip temp (say getting it down to -15C), unity gain, LRGB filter, image focus and so forth.
5. I usually take exposures up to 2min per filter. Usually in the ratio of 3 luminance, 1 Red, 1 Green, 1 Blue. But I tend to experiment there a bit. For a single target I can easily take over 100+ images. Images saved in FITS format.
6. Take all the images and stack (composite) them. There is a lot of software that does this (some excellent free and open source software too), but I stick with one piece of software that is used mainly in astronomy, Pixinsight. It is damn expensive, but they have thankfully stayed off a subscription model. Pixinsight site. If you use just a DSLR, then DeepSkyStacker does an amazing job and is free.
From this point on, I work on stretching the data as much as possible whilst keeping the noise level low. Then follows noise reduction, HDR, removing gradients (a big problem with light pollution
Pixinsight is extraordinarily powerful, but sometimes it gets a bit daunting (even though I have been using it for 2years). I've recently stated using Startools. Developed by a local, and way cheaper too. I might switch to it, as it takes out alot of the guess work.
lately I been enjoying false color Hubble palette images, maybe not accurate but interesting.
Stilton Disco
Member
Question for you all: what would you recommend in a laptop for photo editing?
My wife uses a Nikon DSLR, decent Lumix compact and a Go Pro, but currently uses her iPhone for editing and an old Mac Mini for storing and sharing, which is obviously not ideal.
Basically what do I need and what do I want in a laptop for her? I'm thinking up to £2500, but if I can spend less I obviously would prefer to, and I don't need it until next June, for her birthday.
My wife uses a Nikon DSLR, decent Lumix compact and a Go Pro, but currently uses her iPhone for editing and an old Mac Mini for storing and sharing, which is obviously not ideal.
Basically what do I need and what do I want in a laptop for her? I'm thinking up to £2500, but if I can spend less I obviously would prefer to, and I don't need it until next June, for her birthday.
Bo_Hazem
Banned
I doubt you need that much, you might be surprised but you'll be more than happy with an iPad Pro 2020, just check the reviews. I use Polarr, the free version, on my PC, and it can get as cheap as $10-20 for the full version and it's pretty amazing, download it and try it out. And I think Adobe Lightroom is also free on iOS products but you pay for cloud save capacities if you want to.
Also for video I use DaVinci Resolve for free now as I'm only doing 8-bit videography so far and it's free up to 8-bit 4K, but it's pretty heavy on GPU and you need a strong one, $300 for the full version. But guess what? Lumafusion is like $10-20 and it's nearly as capable as Adobe Premiere, DaVinici has some 3D wonders and a bigger program in comparison.
I think an iPad Pro 2020 will make you extremely satisfied, I don't have one yet but getting one for my wife for graphics design on procreate with the pen. I personally use a high-end "gaming" PC as you can easily crunch a video clip, so far tried up to 4K@1200fps and still working good and no lags, crashing, but you can't preview it.
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BluRayHiDef
Banned
Taken with my Fuji X-T3. Warning: amateur hour.
Bo_Hazem
Banned
Taken with my Fuji X-T3. Warning: amateur hour.
Sweet! I like them!
BluRayHiDef
Banned
Yams
Member
It really depends on where she'd like to go with her photography. Would she move to Lightroom or Photoshop on a laptop? Does she usually just edit a couple photos at a time to throw up on Instagram or does she see herself doing large batch edits?
£2500 is probably more money than you need to spend for simple edits on a couple photos at a time. If she wants to stay in the Apple ecosystem, a base model with a RAM upgrade to 16GB would probably be fine.
Bo_Hazem
Banned
I think iPad Pro 2020 is a wonderful, versatile device, you can even make photos with it as well. You can have few accessories at home to make it desktop-like as well:
The best thing is they went with USB-C now, and you can use any cheap keyboard/mouse through Bluetooth. Apple products are overall overpriced but pretty performant and have cheap apps that make wonders. I'm an android fan myself, never owned an Apple product before but getting it because it's the best for drawing/designing for my wife compared to the beasty Huawei and Samsung tablets. There are even cheap Chinese tablets with Windows 10 if you want with high demand and great user feedback, can suggest some.
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Yams
Member
I think iPad Pro 2020 is a wonderful, versatile device, you can even make photos with it as well. You can have few accessories at home to make it desktop-like as well:
The best thing is they went with USB-C now, and you can use any cheap keyboard/mouse through Bluetooth. Apple products are overall overpriced but pretty performant and have cheap apps that make wonders. I'm an android fan myself, never owned an Apple product before but getting it because it's the best for drawing/designing for my wife compared to the beasty Huawei and Samsung tablets. There are even cheap Chinese tablets with Windows 10 if you want with high demand and great user feedback, can suggest some.
For sure. I use an iPad and think they are great products. However, I use Photoshop and Lightroom on a daily basis and wouldn't consider using an iPad for heavy editing or composite work. That's my own bias though because I've always worked off an iMac/PC. It could be the perfect device for many people. It depends on the kind of photography you do.
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Bo_Hazem
Banned
You should check this out, along with plenty others. I doubt I'll buy another desktop few years from now, but here:
And 4K video editing:
I think it's a wonderful piece and budget friendly. But it's better to see as much reviews as possible for any kind of product.
Bo_Hazem
Banned
Kinda get distracted from the PS5 hype, I'm pretty much in A7S III hype now, haha!
I was doing a shortlist of potential lenses to get, starting from the first then the last:
1-Sony FE 24-240mm F3.5-6.3 OSS: Landscape, multi-purpose lens.
2-Sony FE 200–600mm F5.6–6.3 G OSS: Birds, animals, and general telephoto purposes. It can do some decent semi-macro for flowers and tree branches, photo/filimg distant waterfalls and other interesting aspects.
3-Sony FE 90mm F2.8 Macro G OSS: Insects, flowers and fruits, portrait, and some potential commercial usage with it.
4-Venus Optics Laowa 24mm f/14 Probe Lens: A very interesting lens that can open some creativity.
Most important aspect of my photography: Fauna, flora, and nature in general. Commercial usage could help get some extra money as well but still so much ahead to be a pro. Gonna do some night photos/videos for some shy animals like genets, owls, etc.
Any thoughts?
I was doing a shortlist of potential lenses to get, starting from the first then the last:
1-Sony FE 24-240mm F3.5-6.3 OSS: Landscape, multi-purpose lens.
2-Sony FE 200–600mm F5.6–6.3 G OSS: Birds, animals, and general telephoto purposes. It can do some decent semi-macro for flowers and tree branches, photo/filimg distant waterfalls and other interesting aspects.
3-Sony FE 90mm F2.8 Macro G OSS: Insects, flowers and fruits, portrait, and some potential commercial usage with it.
4-Venus Optics Laowa 24mm f/14 Probe Lens: A very interesting lens that can open some creativity.
Most important aspect of my photography: Fauna, flora, and nature in general. Commercial usage could help get some extra money as well but still so much ahead to be a pro. Gonna do some night photos/videos for some shy animals like genets, owls, etc.
Any thoughts?