• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

NeoGAF Photography & Camera Gear Community

Chankoras

Member
Kinda get distracted from the PS5 hype, I'm pretty much in A7S III hype now, haha!

I was doing a shortlist of potential lenses to get, starting from the first then the last:

1-Sony FE 24-240mm F3.5-6.3 OSS: Landscape, multi-purpose lens.
2-Sony FE 200–600mm F5.6–6.3 G OSS: Birds, animals, and general telephoto purposes. It can do some decent semi-macro for flowers and tree branches, photo/filimg distant waterfalls and other interesting aspects.
3-Sony FE 90mm F2.8 Macro G OSS: Insects, flowers and fruits, portrait, and some potential commercial usage with it.
4-Venus Optics Laowa 24mm f/14 Probe Lens: A very interesting lens that can open some creativity.

Most important aspect of my photography: Fauna, flora, and nature in general. Commercial usage could help get some extra money as well but still so much ahead to be a pro. Gonna do some night photos/videos for some shy animals like genets, owls, etc.

Any thoughts?
Some good choices there, I would recommend you to consider the tamron 28-200 2.8-5.6 DI lll seems a bit cheaper and shaper at the long end @200mm and maybe invest the rest towards a good tripod and tripod head or a wide and lens.
 

Bo_Hazem

Banned
Some good choices there, I would recommend you to consider the tamron 28-200 2.8-5.6 DI lll seems a bit cheaper and shaper at the long end @200mm and maybe invest the rest towards a good tripod and tripod head or a wide and lens.

Yeah saw a review of that tamron, I'm actually been monitoring that 24-240mm since ages, never owned a DSLR nor a Sony mirrorless before, but was always watching Sony pretty closely.

I should watch more about that Tamron 28-200mm, the price is decent as well. For tripods, I might good for as light as possible, I guess, and probably have a heavier one in the trunk of my 4x4 if not walking far away.

Some car photography, my previous 1997 Nissan Patrol (Y60). It's a zoomed shot. Old pic (13-Sep-2013) taken with my old Lumix FZ35.

P1110047.jpg


Location: Wadi Nahiz, Salalah, Dhofar, Oman.
 
Last edited:

Chankoras

Member
Yeah saw a review of that tamron, I'm actually been monitoring that 24-240mm since ages, never owned a DSLR nor a Sony mirrorless before, but was always watching Sony pretty closely.

I should watch more about that Tamron 28-200mm, the price is decent as well. For tripods, I might good for as light as possible, I guess, and probably have a heavier one in the trunk of my 4x4 if not walking far away.

Some car photography, my previous 1997 Nissan Patrol (Y60). It's a zoomed shot. Old pic (13-Sep-2013) taken with my old Lumix FZ35.

P1110047.jpg


Location: Wadi Nahiz, Salalah, Dhofar, Oman.
Nice truck!
here is a comparison between those two lens. Tamron isn't as wide and doesn't have oss, but is sharper at the long end basically.

 

Bo_Hazem

Banned
Nice truck!
here is a comparison between those two lens. Tamron isn't as wide and doesn't have oss, but is sharper at the long end basically.



Thank you! I might just ditch it. Been watching videos, and I'm more into:

SIGMA 24-70mm f2.8 E-mount

And still considering:

Sony FE 24–105mm F4 G OSS

The first might be perfect for low light, pretty downgrade though from 24-240mm in terms of versatility.
 

Chankoras

Member
Thank you! I might just ditch it. Been watching videos, and I'm more into:

SIGMA 24-70mm f2.8 E-mount

And still considering:

Sony FE 24–105mm F4 G OSS

The first might be perfect for low light, pretty downgrade though from 24-240mm in terms of versatility.
Those two are a good choice, while the 24-240 is versatile, if isn't sharp at the long end of the zoom, sort of defeats the purpose of it.

jD0bBoz.png

MTF charts show is sharpest at the wide to mid range, otherwise not a great performer.
 

Bo_Hazem

Banned
Those two are a good choice, while the 24-240 is versatile, if isn't sharp at the long end of the zoom, sort of defeats the purpose of it.

jD0bBoz.png

MTF charts show is sharpest at the wide to mid range, otherwise not a great performer.

It's a very old lens, would've loved Sony to release a G or G Master version of it by now, or some other brand with such great range. Now I'm between those two. Should I sacrafice F2.8 for F4 for that extra length? Quite conflicted, the rest of the lenses would come later, already dropped Xperia 1 II and XH90 tv to compensate for camera and lenses first.

Another worrying thing is weather sealing, during our wet season some minor drizzles might creep inside, and the worst thing is when you attempt to change the lense the sensor might get foggy due to 80-100% humidity, although cool weather.
 

Chankoras

Member
It's a very old lens, would've loved Sony to release a G or G Master version of it by now, or some other brand with such great range. Now I'm between those two. Should I sacrafice F2.8 for F4 for that extra length? Quite conflicted, the rest of the lenses would come later, already dropped Xperia 1 II and XH90 tv to compensate for camera and lenses first.

Another worrying thing is weather sealing, during our wet season some minor drizzles might creep inside, and the worst thing is when you attempt to change the lense the sensor might get foggy due to 80-100% humidity, although cool weather.
Difficult choice Bo, I think the advantage of the a7slll body is being able to push ISO without too much a noise penalty at f4, but you might want the bokeh of the f2.8.
Also the 12mp sensor won't allow for too much cropping, so long reach could be beneficial in that regard.
 

Bo_Hazem

Banned
Difficult choice Bo, I think the advantage of the a7slll body is being able to push ISO without too much a noise penalty at f4, but you might want the bokeh of the f2.8.
Also the 12mp sensor won't allow for too much cropping, so long reach could be beneficial in that regard.

I usually use full zoom for better bokeh, but I'm getting the macro and portrait is not that critical to me overal, but the 90mm 2.8f macro seems like a wonderful lens that'll get for insects and flowers later anyway. Would love to know more which one is a better camera for star/galaxy landscape photography though.

A shot by my drone, Phantom 4 Pro. Location: Dhalkout, Dhofar, Oman.

DCIM-100-MEDIA-DJI-0018-JPG.jpg


Maybe Uncharted 5 here? :messenger_winking_tongue:
 
Last edited:

Chankoras

Member
I usually use full zoom for better bokeh, but I'm getting the macro and portrait is not that critical to me overal, but the 90mm 2.8f macro seems like a wonderful lens that'll get for insects and flowers later anyway. Would love to know more which one is a better camera for star/galaxy landscape photography though.

A shot by my drone, Phantom 4 Pro. Location: Dhalkout, Dhofar, Oman.

DCIM-100-MEDIA-DJI-0018-JPG.jpg


Maybe Uncharted 5 here? :messenger_winking_tongue:
If you want to photograph the milky way and that kind of simple star photography a wide angle paired with a full frame sensor is useful because allows long exposures without star trails in a single exposure, simple, or you can use a star tracker and multiple exposures and stacking gives good results, also you can add light pollution filters, soft filters depending on your taste.
If you want deep space photography things can get complicated cameras without i ir filter, cameras with cooling mods, monochrome with an array of filters, and so on, it can get really specialized and complex, with filters, optics, software etc.
 

Bo_Hazem

Banned
If you want to photograph the milky way and that kind of simple star photography a wide angle paired with a full frame sensor is useful because allows long exposures without star trails in a single exposure, simple, or you can use a star tracker and multiple exposures and stacking gives good results, also you can add light pollution filters, soft filters depending on your taste.
If you want deep space photography things can get complicated cameras without i ir filter, cameras with cooling mods, monochrome with an array of filters, and so on, it can get really specialized and complex, with filters, optics, software etc.

Wonderful details, sir, you're pretty generous with your knowledge. It's pretty useful for me to know what I should get ;) Here, fresh from the oven, today.

Darbat Waterfalls, Taqah, Dhofar, Oman.

DJI-0022.jpg


Tool: DJI Phantom 4 Pro at D-Cinelike, RAW. Edited on Polarr.
 
Last edited:

Yams

Member
Thank you! I might just ditch it. Been watching videos, and I'm more into:

SIGMA 24-70mm f2.8 E-mount

The first might be perfect for low light, pretty downgrade though from 24-240mm in terms of versatility.

If I was making the same choice as you, I'd go with the 24-70mm. I bought the Nikon equivalent (NIKKOR 24-70mm f/2.8G ED) and have never regretted it. If I purchased a 24-240, I can imagine myself becoming dissatisfied with the performance and buying near perfect lenses with a smaller range down the line. I'd rather just skip that initial step and buy better lenses right from the start. With that said, I don't shoot wildlife animals so a lens as long as 240mm has never had any appeal to me.

For my own personal photography, 24-70mm covers nearly everything I want to shoot. I also carry around 50mm and 85mm primes.
 

Bo_Hazem

Banned
If I was making the same choice as you, I'd go with the 24-70mm. I bought the Nikon equivalent (NIKKOR 24-70mm f/2.8G ED) and have never regretted it. If I purchased a 24-240, I can imagine myself becoming dissatisfied with the performance and buying near perfect lenses with a smaller range down the line. I'd rather just skip that initial step and buy better lenses right from the start. With that said, I don't shoot wildlife animals so a lens as long as 240mm has never had any appeal to me.

For my own personal photography, 24-70mm covers nearly everything I want to shoot. I also carry around 50mm and 85mm primes.

Yeah, I've seen some reviews, and seems the only possible lens outside that is 24-105mm f/4. Totally dropped the 24-240mm.

For real wildlife photography/videography, I'm going for the Sony FE 200–600mm F5.6–6.3 G OSS, Sony FE 90mm F2.8 Macro G OSS. Still considering the 100-400mm G master over 200-600mm, but that massive reach and 12MP seem like the better way to do it. The Venus Optics Laowa 24mm f/14 Probe Lens E-Mount seems like a great lens for either wildlife and creative photography/videography, might get it in a later date.

Might try to squeeze some money out of them doing commercial ads, if I manage to do a good job. Start for free for some friends first.
 
Last edited:

Bo_Hazem

Banned
Just uploaded this, it was filmed last year. Had some problems with the osmo lighting I should've locked it, also the color science is pretty different than the drone even though they're from the same company. I used Sony LUT's for the osmo on the DaVinci Resolve. Drone footage was in normal mode, I should've made them in Cine-like but without extreme contrast due to being cloudy it helped.





I use Polarr, I know Lightroom is superior but this program is good and cheap (free if you want the basic version).

117038393_10164321084935227_5106899961272743489_o.jpg
 
Last edited:

Chankoras

Member
Just uploaded this, it was filmed last year. Had some problems with the osmo lighting I should've locked it, also the color science is pretty different than the drone even though they're from the same company. I used Sony LUT's for the osmo on the DaVinci Resolve. Drone footage was in normal mode, I should've made them in Cine-like but without extreme contrast due to being cloudy it helped.



I use Polarr, I know Lightroom is superior but this program is good and cheap (free if you want the basic version).

117038393_10164321084935227_5106899961272743489_o.jpg

Nice work!
 

Bo_Hazem

Banned
Good to hear about the coma performance.
Here's another nice astro shot, but with long lens


Seen that one, but because I'm pretty new to "interchangeable" cameras, never owned one although been photographing since like 2008. Well, I've been spending shit loads of money on cars, engine swapping and modding, enough to build a complete studio. It's something I enjoyed then, but I had much more freedom and very solid budget before marriage. Although the best that that happened to my life, it tends to hinder your budget quite substantially.

I might even buy it without lens/memory card, then eventually buy everything as that's the most budget hitter. If I can generate some money out if it in the short term to get more lenses then that'll be great. Very hyped for the camera! Seen some crazy shots with that lens, this one probably the best review out there with mind-blowing photos:

 
Last edited:

Chankoras

Member
Seen that one, but because I'm pretty new to "interchangeable" cameras, never owned one although been photographing since like 2008. Well, I've been spending shit loads of money on cars, engine swapping and modding, enough to build a complete studio. It's something I enjoyed then, but I had much more freedom and very solid budget before marriage. Although the best that that happened to my life, it tends to hinder your budget quite substantially.

I might even buy it without lens/memory card, then eventually buy everything as that's the most budget hitter. If I can generate some money out if it in the short term to get more lenses then that'll be great. Very hyped for the camera! Seen some crazy shots with that lens, this one probably the best review out there with mind-blowing photos:

I hear you, it can get really expensive, I tend to agree with the philosophy of upgrading lenses first, bodies usually depreciate faster as technology advances rapidly, lens in the other hand retain value if they're desirable and are taken care for.
 
Last edited:

Bo_Hazem

Banned
I'm selling my DJI Phantom 4 Pro V1 (I love, respect it, but getting to big and too much hassle plugging and unplugging the wings) and buying the new DJI Mavic Air 2. Why?

Mavic-Air-2-vs-Mavic-2-Pro.png


Mavic-Air-2-Table-Camera-Specs-1.jpg


-Smaller sensor, yet massively higher resolution. (48MP)! Still shoots raw images as well.
-Higher video bitrate.
-Fucking Panorama!
-HDR (won't use it though, better have that 60fps at 4K).
-1080p@240fps!!!
-Compact, great if you're carrying a set lenses and camera along with it and hiking.
-Fucking 8K hyperlapse!

Only lacks D-Log, which is only important for shooting directly to the Sun. It's a great drone, and disposable if you thing that you need to risk it for something worth the risk (some I know lost their Inspire 2 in waterfalls/valleys).





Download the raw samples, especially the 48MP ones (massive, nearly 100MB each!) and play around with them:

 
Last edited:

Bo_Hazem

Banned
Curious why you like Luminar 4. Most of what I've read and watched hasn't convinced me that its a better alternative to Capture One or Lightroom.

Just tried it 2 days ago, read about it, but was shocked by its results. I highly recommend you trying out the the free version, and even the Aurora HDR free trial. Those two from that same company are simply unfair for professional editors who spend years and years of mastering editing, and you can make a shit photo look insanely good using AI that reconstructs the image, something like DLSS in gaming, and pushing the limits of the native limits of the camera/photo to extract much more light and colors.

I'm still in shock more as I go back to my old JPG photos 11-10 years ago and try them out with this one. The work flow is extremely fast and the AI is just spot on. Best works with RAW. Gonna buy both now with more additions for $189.48 (%30 off if you pic more than one thing).

I was just looking for an alternative to Lightroom, because I'm not a fan of subscriptions. Same with DaVinci Resolve (buying the full version for 10-bit+ and 8K editing and the capability of using the GPU that can render extremely fast and it's only available on the final version. Plus for H.265 codec).

Try the free versions of all what's been mentioned here, you won't regret it. By the way, you can buy Luminar 4 and Aurora HDR and use them as plugins in Lightroom and Photoshop. Aurora HDR is another sorcery were you can make HDR out of 1 image and having the AI reconstruct the image and lowering noise in a way you can't even dream of. This would help me a lot for fauna and flora to show as much details as possible without over exposing any details.

Use them on photos of yours (both Luminar and Aurora HDR) that you think they are bad, especially RAW for much better results. The shot above was after sunset, and it's JPG, sadly, yet you can extract much more editing out of it. Here is the original one:

DCIM-100-MEDIA-DJI-0019-JPG.jpg


Pushed the exposure 1+ as well as it was dark.
 
Last edited:

Aarbron

Member
Anyone have a lens recommendation for aviation photography? I assume 600mm would be ideal, but 300mm ok? Using a Nikon DSLR D5600 at the moment.

PS: Clouds clearing here, hopefully I can get some new deep sky snaps soon!
 

Bo_Hazem

Banned
Anyone have a lens recommendation for aviation photography? I assume 600mm would be ideal, but 300mm ok? Using a Nikon DSLR D5600 at the moment.

PS: Clouds clearing here, hopefully I can get some new deep sky snaps soon!

I'm still pretty rookie, but if you buy anything it should have image stabilization. I don't even have or used a DSLR/mirrorless but compact camera, and old one since 2009 (Lumix FZ35) and now planning for Sony a7s III mostly for videography. Combined with DJI's Osmo Pocket and perviously Phantom 4 Pro. I'm selling the P4P and getting Mavic Air 2 now, should be here by next weak.

===============

I just bought both Luminar 4 and Aurora HDR with some luts, I highly recommend both.
 

Chankoras

Member
Anyone have a lens recommendation for aviation photography? I assume 600mm would be ideal, but 300mm ok? Using a Nikon DSLR D5600 at the moment.

PS: Clouds clearing here, hopefully I can get some new deep sky snaps soon!
Which 600mm? The Nikon 600mm f4 is heavy and expensive, the 300 f4 is more manageable. Maybe something to consider, the Tamron 150-600mm G2 while not near as good optically as a prime is more versatile.
 
Last edited:

rykomatsu

Member
Which 600mm? The Nikon 600mm f4 is heavy and expensive, the 300 f4 is more manageable. Maybe something to consider, the Tamron 150-600mm G2 while not near as good optically as a prime is more versatile.

The first 2 photos I posted here are from the Tamron 150-600mm G2:


Since it's F5~6.3, it needs a good deal of light, but in all honesty, I think you trade just a little bit of IQ (like, splitting hairs IQ) for a tremendous boost in versatility.
 

Bo_Hazem

Banned

Although it was a JPG (sadly, not RAW), and it was 1+ stop exposure after sunset, I managed to bring back as much details as possible without staggering noise in other manual photo editing apps. The AI in Luminar 4 and Aurora HDR is just insane! Note that there are many problems with Luminar version 4.3, I had to uninstall it and use offline 4.2 version until they release a stable update as it's broken and can't export anything after buying it.

118476993_10164407857175227_2144873073323119447_o.jpg


Yams Yams
 
Last edited:

Yams

Member
Although it was a JPG (sadly, not RAW), and it was 1+ stop exposure after sunset, I managed to bring back as much details as possible without staggering noise in other manual photo editing apps. The AI in Luminar 4 and Aurora HDR is just insane! Note that there are many problems with Luminar version 4.3, I had to uninstall it and use offline 4.2 version until they release a stable update as it's broken and can't export anything after buying it.

Yams Yams

I'm always willing to give it a shot even though I think it's probably not for me. Maybe I'll run some shots through each editor and post side-by-sides for fun.
 

Aarbron

Member
Which 600mm? The Nikon 600mm f4 is heavy and expensive, the 300 f4 is more manageable. Maybe something to consider, the Tamron 150-600mm G2 while not near as good optically as a prime is more versatile.

Thanks, Chankoras. Never thought about the Tamrons will look into those. Thanks for the advice!
 

Chankoras

Member
Although it was a JPG (sadly, not RAW), and it was 1+ stop exposure after sunset, I managed to bring back as much details as possible without staggering noise in other manual photo editing apps. The AI in Luminar 4 and Aurora HDR is just insane! Note that there are many problems with Luminar version 4.3, I had to uninstall it and use offline 4.2 version until they release a stable update as it's broken and can't export anything after buying it.
Never have used the Luminar, but the upcoming AI Looks good for quick editing.
 

Bo_Hazem

Banned
Never have used the Luminar, but the upcoming AI Looks good for quick editing.


Yup, got a notifications on that one. Might as well buy it. Luminar 4 already has AI, you can apply it pretty easily. That photo took me around 1-2 minutes. I got as well Aurora HDR, wonderful if your photos are over exposed or under exposed, then you might take it to Luminar. You can use both as plugins inside Lightroom as well or Photoshop.
 

Bo_Hazem

Banned
And the video is ready after so much suffering, if someone here uses Mavic Air 2 and interested in my peronal LUT I can share it indeed. Had to download the drivers from Microsoft for H.265 codec.

 

Hakiroto

Member
I'm currently using a Fujifilm X-T4 with the 23mm, 35mm, and 50mm f/2.0 primes. It's mostly used for street/travel but I've been shooting some recipes in a home studio recently, which has been fun.
 

Aarbron

Member
Purchased a new toy. A small planetary camera. Unfortunately, only had 10mins to try it out tonight on Jupiter. A quick and dirty shot, but happy with it. Shot with a ZWO ASI290MC planetary camera and with a 8inch reflector at F5.

I will be buying a barlow piece that will get it to F25 - if I can afford it!

Three of Jupiter's moons are also visible (one is barely visible).

The mirrors (primary and secondary mirrors) in the telescope are slightly out of alignment.

besfzIK.png
 

Bo_Hazem

Banned
Purchased a new toy. A small planetary camera. Unfortunately, only had 10mins to try it out tonight on Jupiter. A quick and dirty shot, but happy with it. Shot with a ZWO ASI290MC planetary camera and with a 8inch reflector at F5.

I will be buying a barlow piece that will get it to F25 - if I can afford it!

Three of Jupiter's moons are also visible (one is barely visible).

The mirrors (primary and secondary mirrors) in the telescope are slightly out of alignment.

besfzIK.png

Man, that's wonderful! I would love to see more of your work! Astrophotography is on my list, but will start with simple landscapes+stars/milky way.
 
Top Bottom