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Official "I need a new PC!!" 2009 Edition

Minsc said:
Really awesome work, can't wait to get one. That LCD insert with the card reader is pretty sweet too.

I have been debating on which lcd fancontroller I wanted when I upgraded to SSD's and remove my current HDD bay but that pic sealed the deal.

My 4890 arrives tomorrow! 1st day as a PC gamer!!11
 

Bii

Member
TouchMyBox said:
As for my problem regarding my HDD being eaten away... Turned out that it was system restore (which can use up to 15% of your HDD) Disabled it and got 150GB back, not sure if I'll turn it back on or not.

I was wondering why my HDD always filled up pretty fast as well. I cleared the restore points and got a little over 80GB back.
 

Slavik81

Member
Grayman said:
Why not use windows 7 for free?
Because iTunes won't synch iPod shuffles on Windows 7.
Though, if anyone finds a way around this issue, that would be wonderful.

EDIT: That said, I did use the Win7 RC1 rather than Vista myself and would do it again too. Just be sure to know going in that there are a few pieces of software that haven't been updated to be totally compatable yet.

Bii said:
I was wondering why my HDD always filled up pretty fast as well. I cleared the restore points and got a little over 80GB back.
Mine's set to maximum 10GiB. Considering that I have a 900GiB internal hard drive and 600GiB external, that seemed reasonable. I've had to use System Restore in the past, so I would caution against disabling it.
 
Slavik81 said:
Because iTunes won't synch iPods on Windows 7.
Though, if anyone finds a way around this issue, that would be wonderful.

EDIT: That said, I did use the Win7 RC1 rather than Vista myself and would do it again too. Just be sure to know going in that there are a few pieces of software that haven't been updated to be totally compatable yet.

I'm running the Win7 RC1 as well and it synced up with my nano fine. But I am using quicktime alternative http://codecguide.com/about_qt.htm and the swicthless version of itunes 64 http://www.ajuaonline.com/custom-installers/ so none of those useless apple apps run in the background.

Any help though on this sound card question?
Is it worth paying the extra $40 USD for a PCI-e X-fi titanium over the PCI X-fi xtreme gamer card?
Just wondering if going PCI-e would be the better long term option.
 
Romance Pie said:
I'm running the Win7 RC1 as well and it synced up with my nano fine. But I am using quicktime alternative http://codecguide.com/about_qt.htm and the swicthless version of itunes 64 http://www.ajuaonline.com/custom-installers/ so none of those useless apple apps run in the background.

Any help though on this sound card question?
Is it worth paying the extra $40 USD for a PCI-e X-fi titanium over the PCI X-fi xtreme gamer card?
Just wondering if going PCI-e would be the better long term option.

I'm using my iphone just fine with a regular iTunes x64 install as well in W7RC...

Um, PCI-e is better longterm strictly because boards are coming without PCI slots these days. I would just be careful to buy one that's not just using software processing anyways for whatever CL effects you're looking for. If you're just in it for audiophile reasons and not gaming there are better cards out there, I'd guess.
 
Crazymoogle said:
Um, PCI-e is better longterm strictly because boards are coming without PCI slots these days. I would just be careful to buy one that's not just using software processing anyways for whatever CL effects you're looking for. If you're just in it for audiophile reasons and not gaming there are better cards out there, I'd guess.

Ahh cheers, I did notice better gun and spatial sound when I had the xonar over onboard. Yeah it will be for gaming and playing tunes while painting.
 
Hazaro said:
Play some non-brown games next :D (Like Crysis, dammit everyone who buys a PC now must play Crysis :lol )

Get the Maximum Edition + Mster config

I don't even like FPS, but once I am done with my build I am going to at the very least try the demo. =)
 

Ikopi

Member
New computer time. This is wat I had in mind:

Antec Sonata III 500W Black
NEC AD-7200S-0B Zwart S-ATA 20X DVD-RW
Samsung HD642JJ 640GB 16MB SATA300 7200RPM
Intel Pentium E5200 Dual-core 45NM 2.50 Socket 775
Asus P5Q PRO DDR2 Socket 775 Intel® P45
MSI N260GTX-T2D896 896MB DDR3 PCI Express Nforce GTX260
2 X Premium 2048MB DDR2 PC6400 800MHZ Value Series

with a total of 700 euro. Any suggestions? I could go to around 800 euros but I would be happier to stick to this price. It would be primarily used for gaming but i7 is a bit out of my league.
 
TheFatOne said:
Man I need help. I bought an acer x223wbd 22" monitor. I also bought a dvi to hdmi cable. The problem is I can't figure out how to get my PS3 to work with the monitor. Can anyone help me out?


This is the monitor I bought.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824009145

It may be outputting 480i by default over HDMI. Hook it up to another HDTV and choose 720p output (and disable 1080i output). Also, try outputting 720p from a PC to ensure it'll take that resolution. In all honesty it was a bit of a terrible buy for use with a PS3, you'd be much better off switching it for a 16:9 1080p monitor if you can.
 

TheFatOne

Member
brain_stew said:
It may be outputting 480i by default over HDMI. Hook it up to another HDTV and choose 720p output (and disable 1080i output). Also, try outputting 720p from a PC to ensure it'll take that resolution. In all honesty it was a bit of a terrible buy for use with a PS3, you'd be much better off switching it for a 16:9 1080p monitor if you can.

I don't have another HDTV but I will mess around with the settings in my PS3. Hey this monitor was only 150$ plus I have a shitty 9 year old TV so it will be a giant step up for me.

Edit: I tried hooking it up to my TV then changing the settings to HDMI but that didn't work.
 
Ikopi said:
New computer time. This is wat I had in mind:

Antec Sonata III 500W Black
NEC AD-7200S-0B Zwart S-ATA 20X DVD-RW
Samsung HD642JJ 640GB 16MB SATA300 7200RPM
Intel Pentium E5200 Dual-core 45NM 2.50 Socket 775
Asus P5Q PRO DDR2 Socket 775 Intel® P45
MSI N260GTX-T2D896 896MB DDR3 PCI Express Nforce GTX260
2 X Premium 2048MB DDR2 PC6400 800MHZ Value Series

with a total of 700 euro. Any suggestions? I could go to around 800 euros but I would be happier to stick to this price. It would be primarily used for gaming but i7 is a bit out of my league.

I'd look into getting an AMD x3 720 based rig if I was you. You'll have to up the budget a little but it'll be worth it.

If you do go with the E5200 pick up a cheapo Akasa AK-965 and clock it to 3.4ghz or so, pretty damn simple to do.
 
TheFatOne said:
I don't have another HDTV but I will mess around with the settings in my PS3. Hey this monitor was only 150$ plus I have a shitty 9 year old TV so it will be a giant step up for me.

Yeah, and so was the 23" Samsung 16:9 1080p that a load of GAFers picked up as well. 16:10 monitors are just such a horrible fit for the PS3, spending that extra $30 or so can make all the difference. Just bring the PS3 to a friends house to setup the resolution settings and like I say check to see if it can actually accept a 720p input in the first place.
 

Ikopi

Member
brain_stew said:
I'd look into getting an AMD x3 720 based rig if I was you. You'll have to up the budget a little but it'll be worth it.

If you do go with the E5200 pick up a cheapo Akasa AK-965 and clock it to 3.4ghz or so, pretty damn simple to do.

Thanks! I was following Techreport's guide on the processor so I think I will overclock it.
 
Ikopi said:
Thanks! I was following Techreport's guide on the processor so I think I will overclock it.

Well I use an E5200 myself and have it at 3.5ghz, at that speed it copes with any game just fine, though the extra money spent on a X3 720 definitely is worth it. Be sure to pick up the Akasa cooler if you go with the E5200 though, the stock heatsink/fan is horrendous.
 

MoFuzz

Member
Hazaro said:
Driver Cleaner / Sweeper and reinstall the drivers.

Do any other games lock up? Temperatures during gameplay? (Can use Rivatuner for this)

Thanks for the tip. Tried an older set of drivers and that seemed to do the trick. Not sure how to do a clean/sweep so I'll just stick with these until the next Nvidia update. I kept thinking it was a heat issue with the card and that I would have to RMA. Glad that's not the case.

On another note, the GTX 275 is a fairly massive card, and really sticks out of my cramped little mATX board - Gigabyte GA-E7AUM-DS2H

In fact, it is blocking the SATA ports on the motherboard, and the SATA cable connectors are kinda bent to the side in order to fit, just barely too. Will this do any kind of damage long term?

I was thinking of either getting right angled SATA cables for a better fit, but would I just be better off plunking down for a regular ATX board and selling the one I have currently?

Heard good things about the Gigabyte EP45-UD3P/R series. Either that or the Asus P5Q pro, but supposably the Gigabyte's have more options and tweaks for oc'ing or something.
 

TheFatOne

Member
brain_stew said:
Yeah, and so was the 23" Samsung 16:9 1080p that a load of GAFers picked up as well. 16:10 monitors are just such a horrible fit for the PS3, spending that extra $30 or so can make all the difference. Just bring the PS3 to a friends house.

This is all I could afford right now, but eventually I am going to get an HDTV so I will hook up my PS3 to it when I do. So my only option right now is to find someone with and HDTV and change the options on it. Man that blows thanks for the help.
 

Angry Grimace

Two cannibals are eating a clown. One turns to the other and says "does something taste funny to you?"
TheFatOne said:
I don't have another HDTV but I will mess around with the settings in my PS3. Hey this monitor was only 150$ plus I have a shitty 9 year old TV so it will be a giant step up for me.

Edit: I tried hooking it up to my TV then changing the settings to HDMI but that didn't work.
Hold your finger over the power switch on the PS3 (the finger sensor in the front, not the master power switch in the back) when you turn it on and you have it hooked up to the Monitor you want to use. Continue to hold your finger there until the system comes on.

The PS3 has an auto-detect output and resolution feature, it's just woefully poorly publicized for no real reason.

Once it does this, you can mess with the resolution/output on the monitor and PS3 through the options and it will work. Unfortunately, unlike the 360, I don't think the PS3 has a 16:10 option to avoid stretchies.
 

TheFatOne

Member
Angry Grimace said:
Hold your finger over the power switch on the PS3 (the finger sensor in the front, not the master power switch in the back) when you turn it on and you have it hooked up to the Monitor you want to use. Continue to hold your finger there until the system comes on.

The PS3 has an auto-detect resolution setting, it's just woefully poorly publicized for no real reason.

Already tried it. It didn't work but thanks anyway. I don't think there is something on my end that I am messing up. I have all the cables properly set up. I will try everything I can think of if nothing works I will bring my PS3 to my brothers house and change the HDMI settings. Thanks for the help.
 
Software question for you gentlemen: my new SFF dedicated gaming PC is hooked up to my 40" LCD at 1080p. I'm treating it right now like a "console," and I want to know if anyone has a similar setup and has recommendations for slick gamepad-controlled frontends for loading games. I have a license for gameex I bought a few years back, but that always seemed to be geared towards emulator collections, so I don't know if you have anything slick you'd recommend. I'm also not ruling out putting my education to work and coding my own, just so I can have the sweet NXE coverflow MS uses to sell me XBox games but won't let me sort them with.

nxe-half-full-or-half-empty.jpg
 

Minsc

Gold Member
TheFatOne said:
Already tried it. It didn't work but thanks anyway. I don't think there is something on my end that I am messing up. I have all the cables properly set up. I will try everything I can think of if nothing works I will bring my PS3 to my brothers house and change the HDMI settings. Thanks for the help.

Well have you successfully verified that your LCD monitor's input is working yet? Surely you have, or know someone who has, another piece of equipment you can run to the same input as what you're using with the PS3.

Angry Grimace said:
Ok, my brother wants a laptop that's the most he can get for 700ish bucks.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834101177

How is this? I don't know much about laptops. Feel free to point me to better specs/etc. and it doesn't have to be Newegg.

Help me GAF, you're my only hope

I don't think I could ever buy a laptop with less than a 3 year warranty. My laptops seem to break about yearly, give or take a month (though CR shows them to all have roughly a 20% failure rate, regardless of brand, I just have bad luck). Thank god for warranties.
 

Angry Grimace

Two cannibals are eating a clown. One turns to the other and says "does something taste funny to you?"
Minsc said:
Well have you successfully verified that your LCD monitor's input is working yet? Surely you have, or know someone who has, another piece of equipment you can run to the same input as what you're using with the PS3.



I don't think I could ever buy a laptop with less than a 3 year warranty. My laptops seem to break about yearly, give or take a month (though CR shows them to all have roughly a 20% failure rate, regardless of brand, I just have bad luck). Thank god for warranties.
o_O Mine's never broken. None of them.

Other than that, anything wrong?
 

TheFatOne

Member
Minsc said:
Well have you successfully verified that your LCD monitor's input is working yet? Surely you have, or know someone who has, another piece of equipment you can run to the same input as what you're using with the PS3.



I don't think I could ever buy a laptop with less than a 3 year warranty. My laptops seem to break about yearly, give or take a month (though CR shows them to all have roughly a 20% failure rate, regardless of brand, I just have bad luck). Thank god for warranties.

I'm a little confused as to what you are asking can you clarify that for me.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
MoFuzz said:
Thanks for the tip. Tried an older set of drivers and that seemed to do the trick. Not sure how to do a clean/sweep so I'll just stick with these until the next Nvidia update. I kept thinking it was a heat issue with the card and that I would have to RMA. Glad that's not the case.

On another note, the GTX 275 is a fairly massive card, and really sticks out of my cramped little mATX board - Gigabyte GA-E7AUM-DS2H

In fact, it is blocking the SATA ports on the motherboard, and the SATA cable connectors are kinda bent to the side in order to fit, just barely too. Will this do any kind of damage long term?

I was thinking of either getting right angled SATA cables for a better fit, but would I just be better off plunking down for a regular ATX board and selling the one I have currently?

Heard good things about the Gigabyte EP45-UD3P/R series. Either that or the Asus P5Q pro, but supposably the Gigabyte's have more options and tweaks for oc'ing or something.
Both boards are fine. I'd just get some cheap right angled cables. The mATX board is quite solid itself so since you have everything working already I'd stick with it.

Instructions for Driver Sweeper and or Cleaner are packed in with a .txt in the downloads you can get from Guru3D.
TheFatOne said:
Already tried it. It didn't work but thanks anyway. I don't think there is something on my end that I am messing up. I have all the cables properly set up. I will try everything I can think of if nothing works I will bring my PS3 to my brothers house and change the HDMI settings. Thanks for the help.
Is your TV/Monitor HDCP compliant?

SLICK DEAL for a 4850 right now.

Free: Stalker Clear Sky
Just $75 after rebate, $20 MIR and only $95 before that.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814161259
10% off coupon VGA5271
http://images10.newegg.com/uploadfilesfornewegg/rebate/SH/HISHightech6MIRsMay1May3109ll97.PDF

HIS_Radeon_HD_4830_01.jpg
 

TheFatOne

Member
Hazaro said:
Both boards are fine. I'd just get some cheap right angled cables. The mATX board is quite solid itself so since you have everything working already I'd stick with it.

Instructions for Driver Sweeper and or Cleaner are packed in with a .txt in the downloads you can get from Guru3D.

Is your TV/Monitor HDCP compliant?

Yea it is.
 

DarthWoo

I'm glad Grandpa porked a Chinese Muslim
I can't believe I'm actually looking to replace parts in my PC, but after ordering a new 23" Samsung 1080P monitor, I'm thinking I should replace my video card. That 4850 looks pretty nice, but will it provide a significantly higher performance than my current EVGA Geforce 9600 SSC? My main concern is that with a 1080P monitor, I may not be able to run my games as well without dropping below native resolution. I've read that running lower than an LCD's native res can cause horrible image quality.

I'm just wondering if the 4850 would be sufficient to then run everything at 1080P at about the same frame rates as I get with 1280x960 on my current CRT. That seems like it would require at least a 50% increase in fill rate. My system is pretty much unchanged from when I rebuilt it last fall, that being a Pentium Dual Core E5200, 4GB RAM, WinXP SP3.

Also, is the difference in size between a 17" 4:3 and 23" 16:9 enough that I'm not going to be straining my eyes on regular applications and text when running at 1080P compared to 1024x768?
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
DarthWoo said:
I can't believe I'm actually looking to replace parts in my PC, but after ordering a new 23" Samsung 1080P monitor, I'm thinking I should replace my video card. That 4850 looks pretty nice, but will it provide a significantly higher performance than my current EVGA Geforce 9600 SSC? My main concern is that with a 1080P monitor, I may not be able to run my games as well without dropping below native resolution. I've read that running lower than an LCD's native res can cause horrible image quality.

I'm just wondering if the 4850 would be sufficient to then run everything at 1080P at about the same frame rates as I get with 1280x960 on my current CRT. That seems like it would require at least a 50% increase in fill rate. My system is pretty much unchanged from when I rebuilt it last fall, that being a Pentium Dual Core E5200, 4GB RAM, WinXP SP3.

Also, is the difference in size between a 17" 4:3 and 23" 16:9 enough that I'm not going to be straining my eyes on regular applications and text when running at 1080P compared to 1024x768?
The 4850 will do a great job at that price. See maybe 20-30% increase in frames along with the added lower impact of upping the AA and AF. (As in more AA and AF for less penalty in FPS).

The difference might be pretty jarring if you are used to that res :lol

Luckily you can increase text size in everything along with icon size in windows so you have nothing to worry about.
 

Akim

Banned
I was looking to build a new computer soon...Can someone give me some feedback on the parts I'm looking at?

Video Card: EVGA 896-P3-1170-AR GeForce GTX 275 896MB 448-bit
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130475

RAM: G.SKILL 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Triple Channel Kit Desktop Memory
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231225

CPU: Intel Core i7 920 Nehalem 2.66GHz LGA 1366 130W Quad-Core Processor
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115202

Motherboard: MSI X58 Pro LGA 1366 Intel X58 ATX Intel Motherboard
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130221
 
Installed the 4890, I was able to OC it stable in Furmark to 950mhz GPU and 1100mhz memory. It was very quiet but after overclocking I wasn't happy with the idle temps (63c) so I set the fan manually at 40% which has been good so far (50c). I may look into getting a VGA cooler so I can lower the fan even more.

I tried out Bioshock, Crysis and Sacred 2 with very impressive results. In Crysis there was a setting for "smooth" mouse sensitivity, I hope this is in most games because I have very herky jerkey movements in Bioshock which kind of ruined it for me. Perhaps I need a gaming mouse/pad to prevent this?
 
Akim said:
I was looking to build a new computer soon...Can someone give me some feedback on the parts I'm looking at?

Video Card: EVGA 896-P3-1170-AR GeForce GTX 275 896MB 448-bit
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130475

RAM: G.SKILL 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Triple Channel Kit Desktop Memory
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231225

CPU: Intel Core i7 920 Nehalem 2.66GHz LGA 1366 130W Quad-Core Processor
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115202

Motherboard: MSI X58 Pro LGA 1366 Intel X58 ATX Intel Motherboard
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130221

Get a 4890 instead of a 275 or 260. Better card for the same price as what you have now.

I'm not familiar with X58 mobos.
 

D4Danger

Unconfirmed Member
payday is Friday and I need a new graphics card. I had a EVGA 8800GS but it failed on me a few months ago out of warranty so I'm stuck using a very old BFG 7800GT right now.

I just need something that's around the same performance as the 8800GS. Nothing fancy. What do you recommend? budget is about £100 (more if it's really worth it).

thanks.
 
DarthWoo said:
I can't believe I'm actually looking to replace parts in my PC, but after ordering a new 23" Samsung 1080P monitor, I'm thinking I should replace my video card. That 4850 looks pretty nice, but will it provide a significantly higher performance than my current EVGA Geforce 9600 SSC? My main concern is that with a 1080P monitor, I may not be able to run my games as well without dropping below native resolution. I've read that running lower than an LCD's native res can cause horrible image quality.

I'm just wondering if the 4850 would be sufficient to then run everything at 1080P at about the same frame rates as I get with 1280x960 on my current CRT. That seems like it would require at least a 50% increase in fill rate. My system is pretty much unchanged from when I rebuilt it last fall, that being a Pentium Dual Core E5200, 4GB RAM, WinXP SP3.

Also, is the difference in size between a 17" 4:3 and 23" 16:9 enough that I'm not going to be straining my eyes on regular applications and text when running at 1080P compared to 1024x768?

The 4850 was never designed for 1080p gaming, I've tried and it doesn't quite cut it. Its performance will often fall off a cliff at a high resolution like that because it just doesn't have the memory or bandwidth to support it.

Get a GTX 260 (216) or Radeon 4890 instead both have roughly twice the memory and bandwidth which makes a huge difference at 1080p and above.

I can't recommend 23" 1080p monitors enough, its the ideal size/resolution/value if you ask me.


Akim said:
I was looking to build a new computer soon...Can someone give me some feedback on the parts I'm looking at?

Video Card: EVGA 896-P3-1170-AR GeForce GTX 275 896MB 448-bit
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130475

RAM: G.SKILL 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Triple Channel Kit Desktop Memory
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231225

CPU: Intel Core i7 920 Nehalem 2.66GHz LGA 1366 130W Quad-Core Processor
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115202

Motherboard: MSI X58 Pro LGA 1366 Intel X58 ATX Intel Motherboard
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130221

A 4890 is cheaper and faster than a GTX 275.


MWS Natural said:
Installed the 4890, I was able to OC it stable in Furmark to 950mhz GPU and 1100mhz memory. It was very quiet but after overclocking I wasn't happy with the idle temps (63c) so I set the fan manually at 40% which has been good so far (50c). I may look into getting a VGA cooler so I can lower the fan even more.

I tried out Bioshock, Crysis and Sacred 2 with very impressive results. In Crysis there was a setting for "smooth" mouse sensitivity, I hope this is in most games because I have very herky jerkey movements in Bioshock which kind of ruined it for me. Perhaps I need a gaming mouse/pad to prevent this?

Bioshock is notorious for jerky/laggy mouse control. Have a look at www.tweakguides.com for tips on how to alleviate it.

If you're not a fan of tearing, (who would be?) be sure to download RivaTuner and setup the included D3DOverrider to force triple buffering in all your D3D games, you'll get rid of tearing without taking a performance hit.
 
D4Danger said:
payday is Friday and I need a new graphics card. I had a EVGA 8800GS but it failed on me a few months ago out of warranty so I'm stuck using a very old BFG 7800GT right now.

I just need something that's around the same performance as the 8800GS. Nothing fancy. What do you recommend? budget is about £100 (more if it's really worth it).

thanks.

Resolution?

If you're not bothered in a big increase in performance (although you'll still be getting a decent enough upgrade), take a look at this:

http://www.novatech.co.uk/novatech/specpage.html?XFX-4830

For a bit more performance:

http://www.novatech.co.uk/novatech/specpage.html?XFX-4850

If you're playing at a high resolution (say 1080p and above) or want a serious upgrade then this'd be my recommendation:

http://www.novatech.co.uk/novatech/specpage.html?GW-265
 

Sleeker

Member
I played the Crysis demo today (pre release version?)

I cranked everything up to very high but the max resolution supported was something like 1600x900 and it looks kinda fuzzy on my 24 inch screen.
I might prefer to just play it in a window instead.
 

Minsc

Gold Member
TheFatOne said:
I'm a little confused as to what you are asking can you clarify that for me.

Maybe the DVI-In (or whatever it is) on your LCD is broken, have you connected something else to the exact same input you're connecting your PS3 to?
 
Sleeker said:
I played the Crysis demo today (pre release version?)

I cranked everything up to very high but the max resolution supported was something like 1600x900 and it looks kinda fuzzy on my 24 inch screen.
I might prefer to just play it in a window instead.

It should support your native resolution ingame just fine. If it doesn't just edit the config file.
 

D4Danger

Unconfirmed Member
brain_stew said:
Resolution?

If you're playing at a high resolution (say 1080p and above) or want a serious upgrade then this'd be my recommendation:

http://www.novatech.co.uk/novatech/specpage.html?GW-265

1680x1050

I'm now thinking it's worth the upgrade. I mean I don't want to be doing this again next year. I looked at that 260 you posted and I'm half-tempted to just go and buy that now for the price (cards are much cheaper than I remember)

How do these compare?

XFX £148
BFG £188

The XFX is a little more than the card you posted but it comes with a 2 year warranty and 2 games.
 
D4Danger said:
1680x1050

I'm now thinking it's worth the upgrade. I mean I don't want to be doing this again next year. I looked at that 260 you posted and I'm half-tempted to just go and buy that now for the price (cards are much cheaper than I remember)

How do these compare?

XFX £148
BFG £188

The XFX is a little more than the card you posted but it comes with a 2 year warranty and 2 games.

I've got that Gainward card I linked and it comes with an excellent custom cooling solution, a free copy of 3D Mark Vantage (worth $20), Mirror's Edge (which is fuck awesome on PC) and a decent factory OC. I'd honestly take it over either of those other two cards even if they were similarly priced. The XFX isn't a bad deal, though considering how terrible Far Cry 2 is, I'd personally rather have a copy of Vantage than it anyway.

Pretty sure mine came with a 2 year warranty though that might have changed.

The 4850 would cope fine at 1680x1050 but that's not to say the extra money isn't worth it.


Sleeker said:
Do you think maybe its because its just an old demo?

The game ran fine but the res options went no higher than that.

Possibly, either way, its just a case of changing a single lne in the config file.
 

Sleeker

Member
brain_stew said:
Possibly, either way, its just a case of changing a single lne in the config file.

I got it to run in max res.

The game cracks the shits when the AA is set to x8.
So it seems like i can play it at pretty high settings but the framerate starts to take a hit
 

Binabik15

Member
Halp!

My brother thinks about buying himself a gaming pc this summer. That of course somehow translates into I have to plan and build it. Thing is, the first and last time I build a pc was when Radeon 8500s were awesome and top of the line. And people played Wolfenstein instead of Crysis. :lol

So what´s the minimum he´d have to pay in Euros (in Germany, but a CC is available for online shopping) for a pc that runs Crysis well enough on his 1050p monitor (30 fps would be enough, but more would be nice, of course). He´d also need an OS that´s easy enough for me to install :/

500 Euro? 600? 750? 1000? Throw me some info and I might have to beg for more details on hardware and stuff in coming months.

Thanks.
 
Sleeker said:
I got it to run in max res.

The game cracks the shits when the AA is set to x8.
So it seems like i can play it at pretty high settings but the framerate starts to take a hit

Standard AA rapes performance and isn't all that useful in Crysis anyway as it does nothing for the foliage.

Just disable it, so that you can use the built in edgeAA.
 
Binabik15 said:
Halp!

My brother thinks about buying himself a gaming pc this summer. That of course somehow translates into I have to plan and build it. Thing is, the first and last time I build a pc was when Radeon 8500s were awesome and top of the line. And people played Wolfenstein instead of Crysis. :lol

So what´s the minimum he´d have to pay in Euros (in Germany, but a CC is available for online shopping) for a pc that runs Crysis well enough on his 1050p monitor (30 fps would be enough, but more would be nice, of course). He´d also need an OS that´s easy enough for me to install :/

500 Euro? 600? 750? 1000? Throw me some info and I might have to beg for more details on hardware and stuff in coming months.

Thanks.

Check out the Tech Report PC guide linked in the op and see how much you can put together a similar rig to its "utility player" or "econobox" for. 500 euros should be more than possible, ordering from UK etailers might be a smart move what with the pound being worth bugger all. There's a link to some in the op, I'm sure some will ship to continental Europe.
 
brain_stew said:
Bioshock is notorious for jerky/laggy mouse control. Have a look at www.tweakguides.com for tips on how to alleviate it.

If you're not a fan of tearing, (who would be?) be sure to download RivaTuner and setup the included D3DOverrider to force triple buffering in all your D3D games, you'll get rid of tearing without taking a performance hit.

Thanks I will check that out. Also I am unable to get sound under XP with an ATI 4890 to my Yamaha RXV1800. I have installed the realtek drivers from their website but still unable to get any sound. When I first installed the card I was getting 2.1 but after installing the drivers I am getting nothing.

Edit:

The Samsung 23 1080p deal is back for those who missed it! Mine shipped out yesterday.
 
MWS Natural said:
Thanks I will check that out. Also I am unable to get sound under XP with an ATI 4890 to my Yamaha RXV1800. I have installed the realtek drivers from their website but still unable to get any sound. When I first installed the card I was getting 2.1 but after installing the drivers I am getting nothing.

Edit:

The Samsung 23 1080p deal is back for those who missed it! Mine shipped out yesterday.

Ypu're likely going to have to ask for help at some other boards, I've never tried it myself so can't offer any help. It absolutely should be possible to get going since its an advertised feature but it may just take a little fiddling about. I take it you're using the included adapter, right?

Have you set it as your default audio device in Windows?
 

TheExodu5

Banned
A note about triple buffering: it will greatly increase mouse lag (by 2 frames, I believe) over regular V-Sync. If you can run a game with V-Sync without a hitch, then don't force triple buffering.

The only lagless solution is to completely run without V-Sync, but many people can't accept the tearing.

My general rule is this:

1) If it's a single player title, I'll run V-Sync, and triple buffering if I need it
2) If it's a multiplayer title, I need to eliminate mouse lag so I turn V-Sync off.
 
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