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Official "I need a new PC!!" 2009 Edition

Firestorm

Member
MDSLKTR said:
GAF, i was thinking of scrapping the idea of buying an itouch 64gig and buying a good pc for christmas instead.

This is what i might buy.
Am i getting screwed over with the price since it's a major retailer?

CPU: AMD Phenom II X4 925 (2.8GHz)
Ram: 8GB PC2-6400 DDR2
GPU: ATI Radeon HD 4650
Hard-drive: 750GB 7200RPM


No idea about about the cooling and the motherboard. I was planning on getting a 5850 down the road. My gaming is mostly on the hdtv with a 1360*768 resolution.
I will get crysis at 60fps with that right :lol ?
You can get a better PC from NCIX for the same price. $100 more would get you a 5850.
 
brain_stew said:
Make sure nothing else is restricting your OC like memory speed, MCH voltage, FSB voltage etc.

What is MCH voltage? What are normal voltages for those two? I have everything on auto for now and I'm using ddr2 800 ram at 800fsb. Should I put the fsb of my ram higher or is 800 good?
 

MDSLKTR

Member
brain_stew said:
Put together a custom Core i5 750, 4GB RAM, 5850/5770 rig on NCIX and pay the $50 for them to build it for you. You'll get a much better rig, with better components throughout and a real upgrade path.

Sounds like a better plan, thanks for the answer.
 
Zaraki_Kenpachi said:
What is MCH voltage? What are normal voltages for those two? I have everything on auto for now and I'm using ddr2 800 ram at 800fsb. Should I put the fsb of my ram higher or is 800 good?

What motherboard is it btw?

Slacken your RAM timings, say 5-5-5-18

Set your RAM-FSB strapping to 1:1 (may be labelled 2.0), this will take your RAM out of the equation.


MCH voltage is the voltage supplied to your memory controller, sometimes (usually if you're using 4 dimms) it'll need a little extra jolt for increased stability. Increase both it and your FSB voltage by one extra (0.1v) step.

Set your PCI-e frequency to 100mhz.

Disable EIST and C1E.

What you're doing here is taking out all other factors, you can always adjust these afterwards, but you have to nail down what is causing the instability, so we need to make sure there's only 1 variable at work.
 
brain_stew said:
What motherboard is it btw?

Slacken your RAM timings, say 5-5-5-18

Set your RAM-FSB strapping to 1:1 (may be labelled 2.0), this will take your RAM out of the equation.


MCH voltage is the voltage supplied to your memory controller, sometimes (usually if you're using 4 dimms) it'll need a little extra jolt for increased stability. Increase both it and your FSB voltage by one extra (0.1v) step.

Set your PCI-e frequency to 100mhz.

Disable EIST and C1E.

What you're doing here is taking out all other factors, you can always adjust these afterwards, but you have to nail down what is causing the instability, so we need to make sure there's only 1 variable at work.

I have an asus p5n32-e sli. I tried linked before at 1:1 and was having problems with it booting but since I've switched to unlinked it works. It was putting both at 1600 or whatever and it didn't seem to like it. What voltage should I increase by .1v? Should I return everything to stock and see what it was running at in CPU-Z and increase that number? Like I said, before trying to overclock now everything was defaulted to auto so I'm not really sure of a baseline to start from with it.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131073
That's the newegg page for my board.

Thanks with your help so far.
 
I'm new to this thread (and PC Gaming in general, relatively). I've been planning for a couple of months to build my PC and after a bit of research I've come up with these specs. I plan on using this PC for gaming (TF2-Ghost Recon) but also for 3d modelling (I currently use Rhino3D and Blender), you guys seem pretty knowledgeable and I want some opinions, I'm going to start getting the parts later on this month but not before I'm entirely sure that this is a good setup for what I'm looking for-

CPU:Intel Core i7 920 Nehalem 2.66GHz LGA 1366 130W Quad-Core
Processor Model BX80601920
Mobo:ASUS P6T Deluxe V2 LGA 1366 Intel X58 ATX Intel Motherboard
PS: Raidmax Hybrid2 RX-530SS 530W
SSD:Intel X25-M Mainstream SSDSA2MH080G2C1 2.5" 80GB SATA II MLC
Internal Solid state disk (SSD) - OEM (comes w/ case @ newegg)
GPU:VGA Sapphire Radeon HD 4670 512MB
HDD: Seagate Barracuda 7200.12 ST3500418AS 500GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache
SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5
RAM: G.SKILL 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666)
Triple Channel Kit Desktop
OS: W7
DVD: Asus 20X (can't find this, need an alternative)
Cooling: 2 Rosewill fans
SATAII: 1 Rosewill SATA Cable

What do you guys think?
 

Firestorm

Member
I wouldn't spend as much as you are and then cheap out on the most important component of a gaming machine. Upgrade your video card and I'd also spend a couple of extra bucks on the HDD for more space.

Also get a better Power Supply. Corsair, Antec, Seasonic, PC Power and Cooling, or at the very least an OCZ or something.
 

Firestorm

Member
MDSLKTR said:
Sounds like a better plan, thanks for the answer.
If you want an example of the type of build you can get from NCIX:

Antec Three Hundred Mini Tower ATX Case - $53.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=29812

Seasonic 650W S12 Energy Plus Power Supply - $89.99 - $25 MIR = $64.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=30143&promoid=1051

PC Assembly and Testing with 1 Year Limited NCIX System Warranty - $50.00
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=7842

NCIX P55 Bundle Deal Core I5 750 2.66GHZ CPU G.SKILL 4GB DDR3-1600 C7 Gigabyte P55-UD3R Motherboard - $459.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=43260&promoid=1051

Western Digital Caviar Black 640GB - $73.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=34286&promoid=1051

Samsung SH-S223B/BEBE 22X DVD+-RW SATA DVD Writer Black OEM - after Price Match it's $26.59
http://www.xpresscanada.ca/xce.php/main/Product/DVSS000393

XFX Radeon HD 4890 - after Price Match it's $199.99
http://ncix.com/products/?sku=84020
http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=15180BD2675

Recommended Upgrade if you can wait 2 weeks for shipment: XFX Radeon HD 5850 - $299.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=44142

Total
$954.54 - $25 = $929.54 with Radeon 4890
$1054.54 - $25 = $1029.54 with Radeon 5850
Some of those parts aren't available at that price now, but we'll see what the sale tonight brings.
 

Nabs

Member
Firestorm said:
If you want an example of the type of build you can get from NCIX:

Some of those parts aren't available at that price now, but we'll see what the sale tonight brings.

how is their price matching?
 

seantos

Neo Member

Firestorm

Member
Nabs said:
how is their price matching?
NCIX US doesn't price match actually =( It's only available to Canadian customers. Online they're great, but their retail stores (including in-store pickup) will refuse price matches that are below cost.
 

yacobod

Banned
i wish i was building my pc now instead of when i did in late march/early april

instead of a 260gtx i'd have a 5850, prolly a core i5 or i7 860 instead of the 920

i want to upgrade to a 5850, but i'm having a hardtime justifying the upgrade, and what to do with the 260gtx after i get a 5850

was also thinking of grabbing an ssd for w7, but idk
 

Firestorm

Member
I'm glad I built mine when I did to an extent >.> None of my parts got cheaper. I still see no guides for 1156 motherboards for OSX. And the GTX 275 is getting pricier due to lack of stock and that's the best card as far as price-performance if you need OSX compatibility.
 

beje

Banned
Well, I'm glad I upgraded mine dirt cheap in january because now, while mobo and cpu costs more or less the very same, RAM has hiked up to 20€ more than 9 months ago :lol

I bought a 2x2GB Kingston HyperX 1066 CL5 for 55€ at a retailer

Now the cheapest you will find them is 75€ (shipping not included) or 80€ at retail
 
Firestorm said:
I wouldn't spend as much as you are and then cheap out on the most important component of a gaming machine. Upgrade your video card and I'd also spend a couple of extra bucks on the HDD for more space.

Also get a better Power Supply. Corsair, Antec, Seasonic, PC Power and Cooling, or at the very least an OCZ or something.

So what video card would you recommend (one that isnt 299.99), I had thought about buying more HDD rather than one with more space (just in case of failure) but I'm sure one with a TB of space will run relatively cheap
 

beje

Banned
diztrukted said:
So what video card would you recommend (one that isnt 299.99), I had thought about buying more HDD rather than one with more space (just in case of failure) but I'm sure one with a TB of space will run relatively cheap

Get at the very least an ATI 4870 / Nvidia GTX260. Less than that is throwing the money to the garbage bin if you want to play.
 

Firestorm

Member
diztrukted said:
So what video card would you recommend (one that isnt 299.99), I had thought about buying more HDD rather than one with more space (just in case of failure) but I'm sure one with a TB of space will run relatively cheap
A Radeon 4890 will run you $170 after rebate:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102852

A Western Digital Black 640GB is about $75 I believe. 1TB is around $90? But you'll definitely want to back up your data too!
 

evlcookie

but ever so delicious
So what is gaf behind / recommending a 5850 or 5870? I'm personally in two minds about it. The 5870 is around ~$170 more over the 5850, it does offer slightly better avg fps and higher min fps but im not too sure if its worth the money right now.

My mindset behind the 5850 is that i pick one up now and in 8+months time (whenever) it starts to feel a little sluggish, just drop in another one and CF. Which should give me a huge boost for bugger all due to price drops by then. I've also seen people overclocking them and getting great performance boosts but you could also say that about the 5870.

Help me gaf. I suck at picking and deciding!
 

nubbe

Member
I got myself an i5 and the overclocking seem phenomenal.
2mzl6qv.jpg

4GHz on stockcooling, I shall get a real cooler and push this baby.

When playing games the step up from the Q6600 is quite noticeable.
 

Firestorm

Member
evlcookie said:
So what is gaf behind / recommending a 5850 or 5870? I'm personally in two minds about it. The 5870 is around ~$170 more over the 5850, it does offer slightly better avg fps and higher min fps but im not too sure if its worth the money right now.

My mindset behind the 5850 is that i pick one up now and in 8+months time (whenever) it starts to feel a little sluggish, just drop in another one and CF. Which should give me a huge boost for bugger all due to price drops by then. I've also seen people overclocking them and getting great performance boosts but you could also say that about the 5870.

Help me gaf. I suck at picking and deciding!
5870 is just way out of normal price range imo. At least in Canada. $300 vs $470.
 
nubbe said:
I got myself an i5 and the overclocking seem phenomenal.
2mzl6qv.jpg

4GHz on stockcooling, I shall get a real cooler and push this baby.

When playing games the step up from the Q6600 is quite noticeable.

What kind of temps are you getting at 4Ghz?
 
evlcookie said:
So what is gaf behind / recommending a 5850 or 5870? I'm personally in two minds about it. The 5870 is around ~$170 more over the 5850, it does offer slightly better avg fps and higher min fps but im not too sure if its worth the money right now.

My mindset behind the 5850 is that i pick one up now and in 8+months time (whenever) it starts to feel a little sluggish, just drop in another one and CF. Which should give me a huge boost for bugger all due to price drops by then. I've also seen people overclocking them and getting great performance boosts but you could also say that about the 5870.

Help me gaf. I suck at picking and deciding!

Its as much as a 50% increase in price (depending on territory) for a 20% increase in performance. its simply just much poorer value. Nothing wrong with that really as the fastest single GPU on the market invariably commands a price premium like that.
 

evlcookie

but ever so delicious
Firestorm said:
5870 is just way out of normal price range imo. At least in Canada. $300 vs $470.

brain_stew said:
Its as much as a 50% increase in price (depending on territory) for a 20% increase in performance. its simply just much poorer value. Nothing wrong with that really as the fastest single GPU on the market invariably commands a price premium like that.

Yea that's what i thought. The price difference makes it hard to justify purchasing it. There is about a AUD$190 difference between the 5850 and 5870s. Sapphire 5850 - $369, Sapphire 5870 - $559.

Looks like i will go with a 5850 :D
 
Firestorm said:
A Radeon 4890 will run you $170 after rebate:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102852

A Western Digital Black 640GB is about $75 I believe. 1TB is around $90? But you'll definitely want to back up your data too!


thanks firestorm I've added a new gpu and a new powersupply (computer total is around 1400)

CPU Intel Core i7 920 Nehalem 2.66GHz LGA 1366 130W Quad-Core Processor Model BX80601920
MOBO ASUS P6T Deluxe V2 LGA 1366 Intel X58 ATX Intel Motherboard
SSD Intel X25-M Mainstream SSDSA2MH080G2C1 2.5" 80GB SATA II MLC Internal Solid state disk (SSD) - OEM (I was told not to get the OEM)
GPU SAPPHIRE 100269HDMI Radeon HD 4890
HDD Western Digital Caviar Black WD6401AALS 640GB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive
RAM G.SKILL 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Triple Channel Kit Desktop
DVD (dont know yet)
PS CORSAIR CMPSU-550VX 550W ATX12V
Fans Rosewill RFA80L-W 80mm White LED Case Fan - Retail
 

Firestorm

Member
diztrukted said:
thanks firestorm I've added a new gpu and a new powersupply (computer total is around 1400)

CPU Intel Core i7 920 Nehalem 2.66GHz LGA 1366 130W Quad-Core Processor Model BX80601920
MOBO ASUS P6T Deluxe V2 LGA 1366 Intel X58 ATX Intel Motherboard
SSD Intel X25-M Mainstream SSDSA2MH080G2C1 2.5" 80GB SATA II MLC Internal Solid state disk (SSD) - OEM (I was told not to get the OEM)
GPU SAPPHIRE 100269HDMI Radeon HD 4890
HDD Western Digital Caviar Black WD6401AALS 640GB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive
RAM G.SKILL 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Triple Channel Kit Desktop
DVD (dont know yet)
PS CORSAIR CMPSU-550VX 550W ATX12V
Fans Rosewill RFA80L-W 80mm White LED Case Fan - Retail
You'll want to change your fans for larger ones I think. I believe the front of the case can take a 140mm fan which would run quieter and bring in more air.
 

Songbird

Prodigal Son
I read the posts on having builds assembled for a fee at NCIX and I really have to ask if UK-Gaffers know any parts sellers on the net or otherwise who'd put together the components you buy? It sounds too good to be true for a noob who's used to buying marked up pre-built systems.
 
Thnikkaman said:
I read the posts on having builds assembled for a fee at NCIX and I really have to ask if UK-Gaffers know any parts sellers on the net or otherwise who'd put together the components you buy? It sounds too good to be true for a noob who's used to buying marked up pre-built systems.

Not that I know of, but I'd recommend checking out systems from:

www.overclockers.co.uk
www.yoyotech.co.uk
and www.dinopc.com

A 4ghz Core i5 + 5850 for £800 seems like a nice deal to me:

http://www.yoyotech.co.uk/yoyotech-...s-writer-onboard-sound-windows-p-2966704.html

Normally a store bought PC means no OCing, but here you're getting a verified and warrantied 4ghz CPU, that's more than a 40% performance increase over what you'd normally get. That system would utterly obliterate an £800 Dell for example.

If you're a gamer on a budget, you'd be much better off with something like this than a Dell machine:

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FS-197-OK&groupid=43&catid=1444&subcat=
 

Songbird

Prodigal Son
Aha, splendid. I hadn't seen YoYo on my google trips.

I see a lot of places like this with decently priced systems but they always either skimp on the gpu or don't include vat.

Edit: A system with a 5850 is pretty much what I'm looking for and an i5 just seals the deal. I'll have to search for how much they differ from i7.

Ooh, they have HTPC too...
 
Thnikkaman said:
Aha, splendid. I hadn't seen YoYo on my google trips.

I see a lot of places like this with decently priced systems but they always either skimp on the gpu or don't include vat.

That £99 sim free Blackberry you can buy if you buy that machine is a heck of a deal as well. Even if you don't want it you should still be able to get the best part of £200 back for it.
 

Songbird

Prodigal Son
Titan Theo at Overclockers looks promising, but then I start to feel I should wait for a quad core system at a similar price point.
 

Songbird

Prodigal Son
Thanks for the tips, made me glad I joined. Should be able to blag a copy of 7 from the MS student service so all I need to add to my shopping list is a monitor. Such is the pitfall of having a desktop replacing laptop for so long.
 

Songbird

Prodigal Son
Bloody hell, 23in for that much? I was chasing Samsung T monitors for a long time, ebuyer and such had large reductions on them but then they disappeared and came back twice the price.

Probably would stick to a smaller 16:9 rez though.
 

Timedog

good credit (by proxy)
nubbe said:
I got myself an i5 and the overclocking seem phenomenal.
2mzl6qv.jpg

4GHz on stockcooling, I shall get a real cooler and push this baby.

When playing games the step up from the Q6600 is quite noticeable.

can you detail what you did to overclock it, or post a link to the guide you used? I would love to simply get mine up to 3ghz on stock cooling.
 

Lime

Member
I don't know if this is the correct thread, but seeing how much of it consist of tech-queries:

I just received a new monitor for my PC. It is a LG W2486L, a completely new model (even better is, my work gave it to me for free :D). Unfortunately, there is ONE SINGLE stuck pixel at the centre of my screen. At times, it can change from blue to red, but that's it. I've tried various solutions, both software (UDPixels and JscreenFix) and do-it-yourself (cloth and ballpen, pixel massage), but the damn pixel still is blue.

Even though the monitor is completely new, LG's warranty does not cover 3 pixel errors and below.

My question is, does anyone have any experience with stuck/dead pixels? And maybe some solutions? At least I would appreciate a retelling of past experiences with the phenomenon.
 

Songbird

Prodigal Son
Huh, I found this while digging around on ebuyer. Should I be cautious? I mean, for the price...

Core 2 Quad Q8200
4gb RAM at 1066MHz
Radeon 4850
A 1TB hard drive and Blu-Ray.

For a PC that'll just last me 2 years is this a good 'un? With the £100 monitor linked before I could be happy for a good while.
 
Thnikkaman said:
Huh, I found this while digging around on ebuyer. Should I be cautious? I mean, for the price...

Core 2 Quad Q8200
4gb RAM at 1066MHz
Radeon 4850
A 1TB hard drive and Blu-Ray.

For a PC that'll just last me 2 years is this a good 'un? With the £100 monitor linked before I could be happy for a good while.

A q8200 is going to be a pretty crappy gaming CPU tbh, especially since you can't OC it. Upgrades aren't going to be quite as smooth sailing either with a custom and liekly crappy motherboard.

Its a good deal but only if your needs correspond well with it.
 

Songbird

Prodigal Son
You know what? Screw it. I gotta man up and put this thing together myself! Would undoubtedly be cheaper if I can get past the fear of junking my components with static.
Starting with an i5 I think.
 

blitz64

Member
I installed my genuine student windows 7 last week. My harddrive had crashed and replace since then.

I reinstalled windows 7 today and it is running fine. It won't let me activate my key. I have 30 days. Is there a timeframe I can reactivate like vista/xp? should I just call them on the phone?

I know I can reinstall my xp every few months with no activation issues.
 
Thnikkaman said:
You know what? Screw it. I gotta man up and put this thing together myself! Would undoubtedly be cheaper if I can get past the fear of junking my components with static.
Starting with an i5 I think.

There's such a tiny risk of that happening, seriously. To keep yourself sane buy one of these:

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.716

and attach it to your case or a radiator.

Make sure you don't work on a carpet and lay your motherboard down on its anti static bag when you're piecing it together outside your case. Don't wear a wooly jumper.

Its quite an enjoyable experience imo, and quite rewarding. Plus, it means that you have the ability and choice to upgrade each and every component individually when you need to. That can save a fortune over time.
 

industrian

will gently cradle you as time slowly ticks away.
I'm planning on building a new PC in January and I'm just curious whether or not my Core 2 Quad Q9450 CPU (the only remaining part of my old PC I stripped apart and sold in April) is considered "archaic" yet. I'm planning on pairing it with 8GB DDR2 and a HD 5870 if that helps.
 

Firestorm

Member
Well Canada, here are this week's builds:

$700 Build (Updated October 15th, 2009)
Antec Three Hundred Mini Tower ATX Case - $53.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=29812

OCZ ModXStream Pro 500W Power Supply - $59.98 - $20 MIR = $39.98
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=33040&promoid=1192

Gigabyte GA-MA770-UD3 ATX Motherboard - $82.99 after price mach - $10 MIR = $72.88
http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=35762
http://www.canadacomputers.com/index.php?do=ShowProduct&cmd=pd&pid=021370&cid=MBD.350

AMD Phenom II X3 720 Black Edition Triple Core Processor AM3 2.8GHz - after price match it's $133.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=36295
http://www.sohodiffusion.com/prod/11363/AMD-PHENOM-II-X3-720-TRIPLE-CORE-AM3-95W-2800-HZ-7.html

PC Assembly and Testing with 1 Year Limited NCIX System Warranty - $41.09
This is a combo with the Phenom II. Add it at the same time.

Corsair XMS2 PC2-8500 4GB (2x2) after price match it's $69.79 - $17 MIR = $52.79
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=39771
http://www.bestdirect.ca/products/216868/CORSAIR/TWIN2X4096_8500C5C/

Western Digital Caviar Black 640GB - $65.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=34286&promoid=1192

Samsung SH-S223B/BEBE 22X DVD+-RW SATA DVD Writer Black OEM - after Price Match it's $26.59
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=41501
http://www.xpresscanada.ca/xce.php/main/Product/DVSS000393

XFX Radeon HD 4870 - after price match it's $149.99 - $20 MIR = $129.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=42237&promoid=1192
http://bestdirect.ca/products/219263/HD487AZWFC/XFX/ (don't need to PM as of now)

Recommended Upgrade: XFX Radeon HD 4890 - after Price Match it's $199.99
http://ncix.com/products/?sku=42996
http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=15180BD2675

$680.86 - $67 = $613.86 for the 4870
$730.86 - $47 = $683.86 for the 4890

$1000 Build (Updated October 15th, 2009)
Antec Three Hundred Mini Tower ATX Case - $53.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=29812

Corsair TX650W 650W Power Supply - $91.99 - $22 MIR = $69.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=26414&promoid=1192

PC Assembly and Testing with 1 Year Limited NCIX System Warranty - $50.00
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=7842

NCIX P55 Bundle Deal Core I5 750 2.66GHZ CPU G.SKILL 4GB DDR3-1600 C7 Gigabyte P55-UD3R Motherboard - $449.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=43260&promoid=1192

Western Digital Caviar Black 640GB - $65.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=34286&promoid=1192

Samsung SH-S223B/BEBE 22X DVD+-RW SATA DVD Writer Black OEM - after Price Match it's $26.59
http://www.xpresscanada.ca/xce.php/main/Product/DVSS000393

XFX Radeon HD 4890 - after Price Match it's $199.99
http://ncix.com/products/?sku=42996
http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=15180BD2675

Recommended Upgrade if you can wait 2 weeks for shipment: XFX Radeon HD 5850 - $299.99
http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=44142

Total
$938.54 - $22 = $916.54 with Radeon 4890
$1038.54 - $22 = $1016.54 with Radeon 5850
 

YYZ

Junior Member
GAF, please help. I recently fixed my computer, turned out to be a memory problem. I had 4x1GB OCZ, dual channel RAM.

There are four slots on my motherboard, Asus P5E. According to the box, I can use DDR PC1066 DIMM, non-buffered, ECC/non-ECC memory.

My question is, should I get 2x2GB or 4x1GB (both are about the same price, but 2x2GB sets are much more common than 2x1GB right now). I'm thinking of getting G.Skill, they are available in Canada now.

Can I use 3x1GB or not?

I am on WindowsXP. If I'm going to upgrade to Windows 7, I'm going to change mobo, CPU, and RAM so it doesn't matter. Just need something cheap to play L4D2 and TF2 very smoothly for now until probably next spring.



Actually I don't know what happened to my OCZ memory. I have two "test 512MB" sticks that I'm using now. What should I change in my BIOS to check the OCZ? I'm thinking of checking two sticks at once and booting the computer, see if one is faulty or if it's a BIOS problem, but I don't know what to do in the BIOS. It's not too bad to pay $90CAD right now and get 4GB instead, but I'll try some fixes as well.
 
YYZ said:
GAF, please help. I recently fixed my computer, turned out to be a memory problem. I had 4x1GB OCZ, dual channel RAM.

There are four slots on my motherboard, Asus P5E. According to the box, I can use DDR PC1066 DIMM, non-buffered, ECC/non-ECC memory.

My question is, should I get 2x2GB or 4x1GB (both are about the same price, but 2x2GB sets are much more common than 2x1GB right now). I'm thinking of getting G.Skill, they are available in Canada now.

Can I use 3x1GB or not?

I am on WindowsXP. If I'm going to upgrade to Windows 7, I'm going to change mobo, CPU, and RAM so it doesn't matter. Just need something cheap to play L4D2 and TF2 very smoothly for now until probably next spring.



Actually I don't know what happened to my OCZ memory. I have two "test 512MB" sticks that I'm using now. What should I change in my BIOS to check the OCZ? I'm thinking of checking two sticks at once and booting the computer, see if one is faulty or if it's a BIOS problem, but I don't know what to do in the BIOS. It's not too bad to pay $90CAD right now and get 4GB instead, but I'll try some fixes as well.

Do you need the extra gig of ram? Does it only happen when you have that stick of ram in or anytime you have 4 sticks in? If it's just to tide you over and your other 3GB work I would just leave it, especially if you're not running 64bit since you probably aren't even using all 4GB. If you want to buy ram, you can resell the 2x2GB a lot easier than the 2x1GB so I guess those but again if you're doing windows xp 32bit you can only see 4GB of total memory, including your video card. I would hold onto the money if I were you if I understand you right.

Edit: You can use 3x1GB sure, the only thing people don't like about odd numbers is if your mobo has dual channel (usually shown by 2 different color memory slots) it can't use dual channel unless they are matching pairs but honestly if it's just to tide you over, even then it's not worth spending the money IMO if you're going to upgrade soon anyhow.
 

Songbird

Prodigal Son
industrian said:
I'm planning on building a new PC in January and I'm just curious whether or not my Core 2 Quad Q9450 CPU (the only remaining part of my old PC I stripped apart and sold in April) is considered "archaic" yet. I'm planning on pairing it with 8GB DDR2 and a HD 5870 if that helps.

I wouldn't mind knowing this too. There's a lot to choose from and a good price difference between the Core 2s, Phenom IIs and Core is. Which ones will still be awesome in a year if not all of them?
 

Chairhome

Member
Lime said:
I don't know if this is the correct thread, but seeing how much of it consist of tech-queries:

I just received a new monitor for my PC. It is a LG W2486L, a completely new model (even better is, my work gave it to me for free ). Unfortunately, there is ONE SINGLE stuck pixel at the centre of my screen. At times, it can change from blue to red, but that's it. I've tried various solutions, both software (UDPixels and JscreenFix) and do-it-yourself (cloth and ballpen, pixel massage), but the damn pixel still is blue.

Even though the monitor is completely new, LG's warranty does not cover 3 pixel errors and below.

My question is, does anyone have any experience with stuck/dead pixels? And maybe some solutions? At least I would appreciate a retelling of past experiences with the phenomenon.
Did your work buy it direct from LG? If they bought it from a retailer, see if they can return it for you and exchange it. Unless they gave it to you for free because of the pixel, haha.
 
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