Plasma, LCD, OLED, LED, best tv for next gen

Would not recommend the S60 after playing with it for a while. It has weird visual problems that I guess is "normal" for plasma, and the buzzing sound it makes is very distracting.

Actually, I would recommend it if all you do is watch movies and you do so about 10 feet away or more, so you can't be bothered by the buzzing and won't notice the dithering. But just be sure to turn the TV off whenever you're away and baby it with slideshows to avoid burn-in (which I've had even with an image on for like 30 seconds, no joke, but it wasn't permanent).

I also notice compared to my old LED it looks blurrier. Maybe it's a more accurate image, but since it's not as sharp it's not as good on my eyes. I guess I'm not concerned about accurate, just impressive colorful images. The whites on this plasma look dim and dirty, which kinda negates how good the blacks are.

Dithering will vary significantly across picture modes and other settings. Assuming you're not already using them, you can try Cinema or Custom with the panel brightness setting at Mid or Low.
 
Hey TVGaf! I had a question as someone just jumping back into the TV buying space after a couple years.

I've been looking to upgrade my family room TV, a 4 year old 42" Insignia that was my first HD TV but painfully average. Based on the arrangement of the room, viewing distance is somewhat close, so I would not feel comfortable going beyond a 55" set. Preferably, I think a 46" of 50" would be the best fit TBH.

I have a friend who works for Sony and I can get the family store discounts on TV prices. Right now, I was looking into the KDL-50R550a set which w/ discount is priced at $675. I also noticed it gets 6 months free Netflix/Hulu, so as a current Netflix subscriber that'd save be an additional $48 (every bit counts!).

Now, I am mostly looking for a good picture set - Smart TV, 3D, web, etc. are low priority to me since I can get most of those features through my PS3. I'm also not interested in the top-tier sets that would set me back >$1k. Does GAF know of/recommend another TV that is 46"-50" for that price with a presumably better picture quality, or is the 550a worth biting?

Not sure if I should hold out for Black Friday deals, but this one is very tempting for a mid-tier Sony.

The 550a has no local or frame dimming whatsoever, which can result in fairly bad uniformity on a 50" edge lit set. The average buyer probably wouldn't even notice, but if you are at all sensitive to that, I would consider a different set.

Plasma seems to be the best bang for your buck if you're budget is around $1K. Based on my findings, it seems you have to spend significantly more than that to get a comparable LCD in the 50" and up class.
 
Sounds like ABL (Automatic Brightness Limiter):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rHndICrpxqs

The brighter the scene, the lower the contrast gets. It was my biggest problem with the VT60.

Yep that's it. I've already turned off all the extra processing in the settings so it's just something inherently built in. I'm mostly ok with it now, seeing as how I didn't spend much for the set. But I'm definitely going to be more wary of this in my next purchase.
 
Has anyone ever signed up for the Amazon Credit Card? I'm looking for a financing option on the S60 (I'm young, poor-ish, and freelancing), and it looks promising. I don't even own a credit card yet, so it wouldn't be awful to have one now.
 
Has anyone ever signed up for the Amazon Credit Card? I'm looking for a financing option on the S60 (I'm young, poor-ish, and freelancing), and it looks promising. I don't even own a credit card yet, so it wouldn't be awful to have one now.

That's what I used to purchase my S60. 24 month financing is a good deal. But if it is your first CC, don't go crazy and start buying things all the time. Pay off your TV and put the card away. No need to ring up debt.
 
I am about to sell my 40BX400 Bravia for this one :

476607.jpg


http://www.sony.co.in/product/kdl-42w650a

Anyone can share any experience?What do you say GAF?
 
Ok, in the market for a new TV for the living room and to get prepped for PS4 and Xbox One. Looking for something in the 50-60 inch range, price not being an issue. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

The 55" Sony KDL-55W900A one caught my interest the most but reading the reviews, people are saying the screen is too reflective. Anyone else here have this TV and can comment on that?
 
Has anyone ever signed up for the Amazon Credit Card? I'm looking for a financing option on the S60 (I'm young, poor-ish, and freelancing), and it looks promising. I don't even own a credit card yet, so it wouldn't be awful to have one now.

You HAVE to pay them off completely before the promo period is up (I would aim for 2 or 3 months early so there is no potential for confusion and no opportunity for them to feign some kind of "mistake"). If you don't pay it off in full, they charge you ALL the back interest on the total amount for the life of loan. At their 20%+ interest, it would be a several hundred dollar back charge. Also, do not put anything else on the card during the life of the promo (even if you pay it off in full early, do not use the card again until the 24mo is up) as they purposefully (Store cards in general, not necessarily Amazon) do not do a very good job distinguishing between the original promo item and unrelated after the fact purchases. They are legit deals, but you have to be responsible and stay on top of it. You absolutely need to (gradually) apply for more than 1 CC ASAP (should have as soon as you turned 18) as you're going to have trouble getting major loans you may need (e.g. Car/Home/Lease) without years of credit history and a decent score. I would advise spreading your day to day expenses across a handful of cards (try not to exceed 20-30% of your limit) and ALWAYS paying them off in full every month early or on time. Once you have a high enough score to get cash back cards, I would drop using cash/check/debit entirely.
 
Ok, in the market for a new TV for the living room and to get prepped for PS4 and Xbox One. Looking for something in the 50-60 inch range, price not being an issue. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

The 55" Sony KDL-55W900A one caught my interest the most but reading the reviews, people are saying the screen is too reflective. Anyone else here have this TV and can comment on that?

I've had zero reflective issues with it, but I also have it in a dark room. I rather like it.
 
Ok, in the market for a new TV for the living room and to get prepped for PS4 and Xbox One. Looking for something in the 50-60 inch range, price not being an issue. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

The 55" Sony KDL-55W900A one caught my interest the most but reading the reviews, people are saying the screen is too reflective. Anyone else here have this TV and can comment on that?

It is indeed quite reflective, but not any more so than the w802a I had before it. I just turn off or dim the lights when I use it and don't have any issues.
 
Just Picked up a VT60 and I want to wall mount both the VT I just bought and the ST50 I already own. Looking for a recommendation on a good full motion mount that doesn't protrude to much from the wall the tv is pushed in.
 
I am about to sell my 40BX400 Bravia for this one :

476607.jpg


http://www.sony.co.in/product/kdl-42w650a

Anyone can share any experience?What do you say GAF?

I own the W6 and W8, the W6 is so impressive for the money, excellent blacks, very clear and bright screen, and input lag is so low, it doesn't get much lower. The upscaling in this set is also very good and makes 720p gaming look really nice, it's the best upscaling of 720p with gaming I've seen, even better than the W8 in my opinion.

All looks nice in motion too, handling pretty much whatever you throw at it very well.
Plenty of options to tweak, a little bit limited with its connectivity like HDMI's, nothing that a hub can't sort out though.

The built in wifi works great too, for all the smart tv stuff.
 
So, in regards to the st60... What is everybody talking about setting up 100 panels? I have always worried about burn in. I would mostly use it for gaming, and watching sports and movies. Also... Could I hook up my pc to it as well? Thanks for any help.
 
Is a buzzing noise a widespread problem with the Panasonic S60? An earlier post is making me rethink plasma--I know I'll love the image quality, but I'm very anal about my electronics. Is there a good, similarly priced non-plasma alternative?

This, for instance http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E3QI6IK/?tag=neogaf0e-20


You HAVE to pay them off completely before the promo period is up (I would aim for 2 or 3 months early so there is no potential for confusion and no opportunity for them to feign some kind of "mistake"). If you don't pay it off in full, they charge you ALL the back interest on the total amount for the life of loan. At their 20%+ interest, it would be a several hundred dollar back charge. Also, do not put anything else on the card during the life of the promo (even if you pay it off in full early, do not use the card again until the 24mo is up) as they purposefully (Store cards in general, not necessarily Amazon) do not do a very good job distinguishing between the original promo item and unrelated after the fact purchases. They are legit deals, but you have to be responsible and stay on top of it. You absolutely need to (gradually) apply for more than 1 CC ASAP (should have as soon as you turned 18) as you're going to have trouble getting major loans you may need (e.g. Car/Home/Lease) without years of credit history and a decent score. I would advise spreading your day to day expenses across a handful of cards (try not to exceed 20-30% of your limit) and ALWAYS paying them off in full every month early or on time. Once you have a high enough score to get cash back cards, I would drop using cash/check/debit entirely.

That's what I used to purchase my S60. 24 month financing is a good deal. But if it is your first CC, don't go crazy and start buying things all the time. Pay off your TV and put the card away. No need to ring up debt.

Thanks for the responses, guys. I ended up making a thread about this, and I came to the conclusion that I might be better off with a Chase Freedom card (interest-free first year). The financing deal on Amazon doesn't yield a "real" credit card, although they do offer one. I actually have good credit from paying off student loans for awhile, I just want a card in order to pay off the TV purchase in installments. I need a card anyway, but this is the impetus for getting one now.
 
I am about to sell my 40BX400 Bravia for this one :

476607.jpg


http://www.sony.co.in/product/kdl-42w650a

Anyone can share any experience?What do you say GAF?

I own the W6 and W8, the W6 is so impressive for the money, excellent blacks, very clear and bright screen, and input lag is so low, it doesn't get much lower. The upscaling in this set is also very good and makes 720p gaming look really nice, it's the best upscaling of 720p with gaming I've seen, even better than the W8 in my opinion.

All looks nice in motion too, handling pretty much whatever you throw at it very well.
Plenty of options to tweak, a little bit limited with its connectivity like HDMI's, nothing that a hub can't sort out though.

The built in wifi works great too, for all the smart tv stuff.

Seconded. Great TV.
 
This is exactly what I'm afraid of.
I keep flip flopping between the VT60 and the W900 (or W850 depending on reviews).
How easy was the exchange at Best Buy, did you buy a warranty beforehand?

The exchange was a nightmare. When I bought the VT60, I negotiated the 5-year warranty for free. Even with that warranty, it took a solid month filled with hours and hours of screaming at people on the phone and several threats to get them to agree to an exchange.

It turns out you basically can't buy a W900A at a Best Buy in New England. You can't even order one for delivery or get it shipped to the store and they have no idea when it's going to be available again. I'm sitting on $2,500 in store credit until I decide if I want to keep waiting for the Sony or if I'm going to settle for something else.

As for your decision, it's up to you. I've had an Elite KURO for 5 years and I can objectively say that no LED television will ever compare to plasma when it comes to picture quality. If you're a nut for PQ, you should go for the VT60 -- don't let image retention get you down. It's going to happen, just make sure you're careful and run a pixel flipper every once in a while. I think my set was just honest-to-goodness defective. Good luck and let me know what you end up with!
 
Oh god...I'm loving this thing already. I'm just streaming Netflix right now, but this is such a step up from my old TV.

It sucks that I have to break in the TV...so I guess no GTA or Windwaker for a few days :(

Quoting again for truth.

Yeah, breaking in has nothing to do with how bad IR will or won't be. Old myth.
Breaking in is simply to age the phosphors for calibration.

Break-in slides are used to age the phosphor fast and evenly to get a correct calibration down the line when the phosphor have settled. Start playing and enjoy your TV, you can run slides in between sessions if you want.
 
I am so giddy for my Panny S60 to get here. Can someone link me the video I'm supposed to run on it for 100 hours before actually using it? And what benefit that provides exactly.
 
Another issue with my Panasonic s60. There's these grey lines, particularly noticeable when browsing the web. They don't appear all the time so it's not burn-in.

QiVsKga.jpg


It's hard to see on my tablet camera, but it's very noticeable in person and there's lots of them (I circled an example). Don't know if this is "normal" or what.
 
So I've had the Sony KDL-50W656A for two days now. It replaces a 7 year old Finlux 42" (full HD) TV with horrible blacks and high display lag.

I can only second that black levels are really good on the W65. For the first 30 minutes or so I experienced what I thought was some clouding on black screens, but it went away so I'm not sure what that was.

What really impresses me though is the low input lag. I have only tested a few games so far, but it just feels super snappy and responsive. Driving in GTAV suddenly feels much better, like I have better control over the vehicle. Good thing I didn't really realize how bad it was on my old set.

I have barely started to dive into the settings to calibrate the TV, but so far I'm really happy with the picture quality overall. Compared to my old TV it's absolutely a night and day difference.
 
Another issue with my Panasonic s60. There's these grey lines, particularly noticeable when browsing the web. They don't appear all the time so it's not burn-in.

It's hard to see on my tablet camera, but it's very noticeable in person and there's lots of them (I circled an example). Don't know if this is "normal" or what.

Linebleeding.

Completely normal. Inherent to the tech and can be seen on every plasma ever built to varying degrees.
 
Linebleeding.

Completely normal. Inherent to the tech and can be seen on every plasma ever built to varying degrees.

Kind of a necessary evil. Every now and then I'll see a line bleed on my ST30, but when it's great the other 99% of the time, it's hard to complain.
 
Linebleeding.

Completely normal. Inherent to the tech and can be seen on every plasma ever built to varying degrees.

I've caught it on my ZT as well since getting it back from the shop. I tend to notice it with scrolling text like credits, mostly on brighter backgrounds or when adjusting volume on my AVR, which pops up a black box with white text displaying volume in the middle of the screen. The most distracting example I can think of would be the greenband trailer rating thing with many lines of text on a solid green background. With pictures in motion, I've only noticed it once in a strong way, on a single shot with with a white bird flying over the blue sky, watching an episode of Planet Earth.
I've been debating with myself about getting it checked. It's my first plasma, and I don't really know how common place it is. I'd like to think that one of the highest end plasma TVs available would not suffer from something like this.

Since getting the TV back, I've been quite paranoid again. I still haven't watched a single movie in the 2:35:1 aspect ratio and all the TV I've been watching has been free of subtitles. I've actually refrained from watching National Geographic, as the channel has a solid watermark at the corner, instead of a transparent one. That's how paranoid I am. As for games, I've not played anything except for GTA V - with the radar turned off. Not seeing your health and not having the GPS for missions makes the game impossible to play outside of free roaming in singleplayer, but it's a good amount of fun regardless (and on some levels, more immersive with having to rely on surround sound to evade the police once out of sight). Yesterday I played a bit of the online component, with the HUD on to complete maybe two or three missions. Nothing seemed to stick, even for a litte while, but I still switched the TV back to watching television for a good 40 minutes or so. I've kept the contrast below 50 at 46 since having the panel replaced - as I was instructed when they delivered the fixed TV. Recommended settings (for the most accurate PQ without calibration) place the number at 56, so I guess I'm handicapping myself a bit.
And I guess it sounds like I'm torturing myself here. And I probably am. But I'm still fearful, mainly because I don't think they'd replace the panel again even if it's under warranty. And even if they would, I sure as hell don't want to wait another month to get it fixed and settle for my bedroom TV.

Have any of you plasma owners here had even slight IR issues with GTA V's HUD in longer sessions?
 
I've caught it on my ZT as well since getting it back from the shop. I tend to notice it with scrolling text like credits, mostly on brighter backgrounds or when adjusting volume on my AVR, which pops up a black box with white text displaying volume in the middle of the screen. The most distracting example I can think of would be the greenband trailer rating thing with many lines of text on a solid green background. With pictures in motion, I've only noticed it once in a strong way, on a single shot with with a white bird flying over the blue sky, watching an episode of Planet Earth.
I've been debating with myself about getting it checked. It's my first plasma, and I don't really know how common place it is. I'd like to think that one of the highest end plasma TVs available would not suffer from something like this.

You will have to learn to live with it. It is not going away and even exchanging the TV won't help. When I said varying degrees I meant that it varies from plasma model to plasma model. Not within the same model range. So a Samsung plasma may have more line bleeding (they generally do) than a Panasonic.
So in short it is not worth getting it checked out because as I said even if they exchange the panel or the whole TV it will not help and I doubt Panasonic will even do that. They will tell you that it is inherent to the tech and is within their quality guidelines.

There are always trade-offs to make. Leave LCD and its problems behind and face the shit you have to deal with a plasma.

Have any of you plasma owners here had even slight IR issues with GTA V's HUD in longer sessions?

It is a non-issue.

I have a VT60 and played GTA 5 over 120 hours in the first week without any other content touching the TV.

It has the right amount of transparency and is absolutely perfect for a plasma.
 
I own the W6 and W8, the W6 is so impressive for the money, excellent blacks, very clear and bright screen, and input lag is so low, it doesn't get much lower. The upscaling in this set is also very good and makes 720p gaming look really nice, it's the best upscaling of 720p with gaming I've seen, even better than the W8 in my opinion.

All looks nice in motion too, handling pretty much whatever you throw at it very well.
Plenty of options to tweak, a little bit limited with its connectivity like HDMI's, nothing that a hub can't sort out though.

The built in wifi works great too, for all the smart tv stuff.

thanks mate!
 
I have a VT60 and played GTA 5 over 120 hours in the first week without any other content touching the TV.

It has the right amount of transparency and is absolutely perfect for a plasma.

Which settings or preset are you using?
The only thing I could think of causing IR or in the most extreme case burn-in would be the health, armor and special bars and the player icon in the minimap, which aren't transparent. Also, did ever have issues with movies presented in a wide aspect ratio?

Also, not that it has anything to do with IR, I never did a break-in with the slides.
And finally, if I may inquire: are you veteran when it comes to plasmas? Don't worry, I won't treat you as customer support.
 
Which settings or preset are you using?
The only thing I could think of causing IR or in the most extreme case burn-in would be the health, armor and special bars and the player icon in the minimap, which aren't transparent. Also, did ever have issues with movies presented in a wide aspect ratio?

Also, not that it has anything to do with IR, I never did a break-in with the slides.
And finally, if I may inquire: are you veteran when it comes to plasmas? Don't worry, I won't treat you as customer support.

I calibrated my set with an i1pro.

Yes you are right the health bar stuff does leave a little bit of IR but it is so small and goes away rather quickly. And no my set didn't have any issues with cinemascope or 4:3 content. I use my set how I want it

Think of it as this. If your panel is prone to IR/burn-in at the first hours it is going to be like that for the rest of its life.
You can only exchange the panel or the TV and hope to get a more resistant one.
I've been through some shit with Panasonic, I can tell you that. They refused to exchange the panel on my VT50 because the burn-in was from some game HUD instead of a TV channel logo which they service here in Germany. That was not easy and nice. In the end they couldn't prove how a HUD from a game was different from a channel logo and serviced the TV.

That is just how it is when it comes to plasma or Pioneer and Samsung finally figure out why they had entire series with no IR at all. Seriously the Samsung E6500 was like a LCD in that regard. It either must be extremely expensive to make the phosphor that resistant or their engineers have no idea how they pulled it off as in the case of Samsung they didn't manage to make a plasma like that since.

I don't know if I'm a plasma veteran. I'm certainly an enthusiast when it comes to the moving picture and all of the technology behind it.

I own a projector and change my TV once a year for the latest model. I've owned three plasmas since I've made the switch from LCD (and never looked back). The first was a Pioneer 60" KRP-600 which died unfortunately otherwise I might not even own a Panasonic TV.
Then I bought the VT50 and then the VT60 this year. I would have liked the ZT60 too but in Germany they only sell the 60" version and I certainly won't go down from 65" especially when the image quality isn't worth the downgrade in size.

So yeah if you have any questions let me know. I'll try my best to help.
 
Just got a 42" Sony LCD with LED backlight and Motion flow XR 200hz.

Could not be happier with it. Surpassed my expectations in every department.
 
http://www.theverge.com/2013/10/8/4...it-plasma-business-this-financial-year-report

Panasonic exiting plasmas early next year. Glad I picked up my ZT65 earlier in the year.

Well shit. My Kuro died last week for the third time and was looking at a VT65 as a long term replacement. Dont have the cash for that until next year though...If this means a big push for OLED then thats cool I guess.

In the mean time I need an emergency replacement to last me until I can afford something better. Need LED because I don't have time to burn in a plasma and I will be doing a lot of gaming on it straight away. Sadly I can't really afford a 50inch model so going to have to downgrade to 42 - 46. What a shitty time for my lovely Kuro to die :(

So far I'm looking at Sony W805, Samsung F6500 or a Panny ET61B. Any thoughts? Think I'm probably going to go with a Sony set after hearing about the low input lag.
 
I calibrated my set with an i1pro.

Yes you are right the health bar stuff does leave a little bit of IR but it is so small and goes away rather quickly. And no my set didn't have any issues with cinemascope or 4:3 content. I use my set how I want it

Think of it as this. If your panel is prone to IR/burn-in at the first hours it is going to be like that for the rest of its life.
You can only exchange the panel or the TV and hope to get a more resistant one.
I've been through some shit with Panasonic, I can tell you that. They refused to exchange the panel on my VT50 because the burn-in was from some game HUD instead of a TV channel logo which they service here in Germany. That was not easy and nice. In the end they couldn't prove how a HUD from a game was different from a channel logo and serviced the TV.

That is just how it is when it comes to plasma or Pioneer and Samsung finally figure out why they had entire series with no IR at all. Seriously the Samsung E6500 was like a LCD in that regard. It either must be extremely expensive to make the phosphor that resistant or their engineers have no idea how they pulled it off as in the case of Samsung they didn't manage to make a plasma like that since.

I don't know if I'm a plasma veteran. I'm certainly an enthusiast when it comes to the moving picture and all of the technology behind it.

I own a projector and change my TV once a year for the latest model. I've owned three plasmas since I've made the switch from LCD (and never looked back). The first was a Pioneer 60" KRP-600 which died unfortunately otherwise I might not even own a Panasonic TV.
Then I bought the VT50 and then the VT60 this year. I would have liked the ZT60 too but in Germany they only sell the 60" version and I certainly won't go down from 65" especially when the image quality isn't worth the downgrade in size.

So yeah if you have any questions let me know. I'll try my best to help.

Thanks for the insight. I'm also a fellow European, so the ZT's a 60 inch one. I contemplated getting the VT as well after I had sold my 46'' D8000 LCD set, but settled for the ZT60 because I got a pretty damn good deal on it (3750€, ordered at launch, arrived weeks late though). For reference, the TV still sits at 4499€, sitting 500€ below the launch price, on every online store here from what I've seen. The 65'' VT also sits at roughly 3,5k as of today.

I'm curious about the Kuro you mentioned though; what killed it?
 
From my experience with the ST50 after the 200-300 hour period I can comfortably watch hours of letter-boxed content with no IR.

That's fantastic news, thanks.

And a local Costco has one S64 left in stock (not counting the display model). It's a no-brainer for $600, right?
 
I have to admit.. I am stumped. Here is my issue....

I have/ will have a Wii U, PS4, and Xboxone all ready to be hooked up in my mancave (when it is finished being built). I dont have a ton of space for speakers, but I dont know how to hook everything up to keep wires to a minimum.

My options:

1) TV with 3 to 4 HDMI ports (all in the back of the TV) so wiring can be kept to a visible minimum. Can anybody recommend a great set around 46 - 55 inches?

2) Receiver, but again speakers are going to take up space that I really dont have and the room is small so do I really need surround sound?

3) a sound bar, but unless somebody knows something I dont... I dont see how I can hook those 3 systems and a TV to it (with HDMI)

What are my options or what is the best option? Please offer any help you can... So I know what I need to focus on. Thanks in advance.
 
Dithering will vary significantly across picture modes and other settings. Assuming you're not already using them, you can try Cinema or Custom with the panel brightness setting at Mid or Low.

Correct, most instances of dithering can be greatly diminished or eliminated just by adjusting the source settings and the panel settings. This is true in my experience, at least.

Personally, I find the screen performance when playing video games to be phenomenal. I actually look forward to playing games and watching movies on this set, because it constantly impresses.
 
I have to admit.. I am stumped. Here is my issue....

I have/ will have a Wii U, PS4, and Xboxone all ready to be hooked up in my mancave (when it is finished being built). I dont have a ton of space for speakers, but I dont know how to hook everything up to keep wires to a minimum.

My options:

1) TV with 3 to 4 HDMI ports (all in the back of the TV) so wiring can be kept to a visible minimum. Can anybody recommend a great set around 46 - 55 inches?

2) Receiver, but again speakers are going to take up space that I really dont have and the room is small so do I really need surround sound?

3) a sound bar, but unless somebody knows something I dont... I dont see how I can hook those 3 systems and a TV to it (with HDMI)

What are my options or what is the best option? Please offer any help you can... So I know what I need to focus on. Thanks in advance.

Your questions demand quite a bit of research but to get you started:

1) For a TV, it's mostly about budget. If you have no budget, I could safely say a Sony W900a would fit the bill well.

2) You want surround sound. I don't even know how people live without it in a home theater setup. It completely changes the game. For a small space at the very least you'll want a soundbar. This question also comes down to budget. A fully fledged 5.1 or greater surround sound setup will run you 2-3k easy.

3) From what I know of soundbars (which isn't much, I've had a HT system for over 15 years) it functions like a home theater in a box. You wouldn't really want to run your video through it if that's even an option. What you'll do is connect your devices to the TV and run an Optical cable out from the TV to the soundbar. This serves two purposes. One, you minimize wiring. You'll have 1 HDMI cable from each device to the TV and one optical cable from the TV to the soundbar. Two, you'll eliminate the problem of audio being out of sync with the picture if you were wiring the sound directly from the device to the soundbar or receiver.

edit:

I'll follow up if you are going to go the route of a full home theater system with receiver, you could instead choose to run the devices through the receiver. In a lot of cases that's preferable. Usually receivers have more HDMI inputs and you can get TrueHD (better sound) through HDMI. Optical is limited to Dolby Digital and DTS.
 
I think I'm going to buy a cheap Vizio and then upgrade to OLED when they are affordable (under $2,000).

Seeing the 55" Samsung OLED selling for under $9,000 and LG under $10K is starting to give me hope that OLED is going to take off. Due to the lack of content for 4K displays I'd say I'm much more interested in OLED than 4K at this point.
 
Is a buzzing noise a widespread problem with the Panasonic S60? An earlier post is making me rethink plasma--I know I'll love the image quality, but I'm very anal about my electronics. Is there a good, similarly priced non-plasma alternative?

After a month or so with my S64, I'm not really sure why this buzzing thing is an issue. Yes, the set will produce a bit of buzzing noise when you're right next to it, and it's worse with lighter screens. But it's so minimal that it will never be heard when the actual TV audio is playing.
 
I think I'm going to buy a cheap Vizio and then upgrade to OLED when they are affordable (under $2,000).

Seeing the 55" Samsung OLED selling for under $9,000 and LG under $10K is starting to give me hope that OLED is going to take off. Due to the lack of content for 4K displays I'd say I'm much more interested in OLED than 4K at this point.

After seeing the 55" Samsung OLED vs the 55" Sony 4K yesterday I can tell you its a real shame there is sod all 4K content at the moment. The 4k Sony is hands down the best picture I have ever seen on a TV. The Samsung actually did not impress me at all but I suspect the TV was not set up properly as to be expected in a store.

An update on my own TV search, seems I have completely overlooked the totally affordable Panasonic 50" GT60B. Gonna try and get a demo tomorrow!
 
After a month or so with my S64, I'm not really sure why this buzzing thing is an issue. Yes, the set will produce a bit of buzzing noise when you're right next to it, and it's worse with lighter screens. But it's so minimal that it will never be heard when the actual TV audio is playing.
Depends on the room acoustics and how good your hearing is. I'm 8 feet away and find it loud. It wouldn't bother me but the particular noise it makes gives me a headache. I can deal with white noise from my dehumidifier, it's just the type of noise from the TV is annoying.

Also sucks to hear that line bleeding is normal. What about pixels jumping around when I have the PS3 on? When it's a black screen and the PS3 is loading, some red pixels jump around even though there's no red in the image.

Is there any way to reduce the brightness of individual colors (I doubt it) but maybe that would get rid of it like reducing the brightness gets rid of some of the dithering.
 
So I just downloaded the st60 break in slideshow thing. Here's my question: I'm no videophile, so if I mix in this slideshow along with normal viewing, then use a custom profile (specifically d-nice's), will I really be cheating myself out of optimal viewing pleasure? In the thread he posted on another forum, he basically made it sound like you could only use his settings if you did the break in starting at 0 hours with his slide show.
 
So I just downloaded the st60 break in slideshow thing. Here's my question: I'm no videophile, so if I mix in this slideshow along with normal viewing, then use a custom profile (specifically d-nice's), will I really be cheating myself out of optimal viewing pleasure? In the thread he posted on another forum, he basically made it sound like you could only use his settings if you did the break in starting at 0 hours with his slide show.

Are you planning on professionally calibrating this set?
 
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