Trojita
Rapid Response Threadmaker
The 65" P65VT60 has dropped 30 dollars in price in the last week that I've been monitoring it.
My patience is tots paying off.
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What price point are you looking for?
The 65" P65VT60 has dropped 30 dollars in price in the last week that I've been monitoring it.
My patience is tots paying off.
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The 65" P65VT60 has dropped 30 dollars in price in the last week that I've been monitoring it.
My patience is tots paying off.
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That's really sad to hear.Agreed in full. Unfortunately for me, Panasonic does not see it that way. My arguments with them over the menu burn in on my ZT60 have gone nowhere and the tech that was sent out didn't change their mind. They insist I must have done something such as setting the panel brightness to 'high', the contrast to 100, and left the menu on for hours. For what's it worth, I have seen two other ZT's with either long duration IR or burn-in (don't know which yet of course and really, from an owners standpoint is there a difference between burn-in and IR that lasts for 4 months). I'm not new to plasma TV's, I love them, but I think I'm best off grabbing something cheap with low input lag like a Samsung UN40F5300 instead of risking ruining what is an otherwise amazing TV.
They're very different sets, those two.I did another test just for the hell of it. HALO 3 (first thing that fell out of my closet) for 30 minutes, panel brightness at mid, all controls including contrast at 50. Had IR that lasted for 20 minutes. My menu IR has dissipated over two months to the point where it only appears against pure white and light blue backgrounds, and even then you have to know where to look, but it's still there. I would be really nervous to play a game for 4 straight hours given those results. As I said the TV has well over 500 hours on it at this point. I've seen some discussion over whether there may be a correlation between achieving the ridiculous black levels that the ZT's have and burn in, but Pioneer didn't seem to have a problem with burn-in on the Kuro's, so I don't think that theory holds much water.
That's really sad to hear.
But I believe it's a territorial Panasonic issue. I know a case where someone complained about a GT30 having a retention blob, and got a ST60 as a replacement.
They're very "no questions asked" here, and I never even had a VT/ZT.They're very different sets, those two.
It's really hard to explain but Panasonic uses binary subfields; while Pioneer used the contiguous method.
Kuro blacks were a byproduct of this, the reason Pioneer went there originally apparently having more to do with the complete annihilation of DFC. Anyway, that meant Pioneer Kuro theoretically bad at displaying a faithful color palette but really good at motion and blacks; they partially negated this by using and abusing colour quantization, dithering and interpolation.
Panasonic took all these years to reach them via a more natural, non-compromise fashion approach; that means the VT/ZT60 sets have all the properties Kuro had, slighly worse at DFC (if anything because it was non-existing on Kuro's), better color depth, better peak light and much less stress on the panel. They're probably gonna have longer useful lives for that alone. It's also cheaper to produce than the Pioneer approach (Pioneer was bleeding money on the Kuros).
The whole heavy interpolation going on the Kuros in order to get a certain color probably helps against IR though; hence me doing this detour.
I don't think there is a direct correlation, but the Kuro example is very different.
Should be a nice upgrade from this one, which I've been using for almost 6 years.
The 65" P65VT60 has dropped 30 dollars in price in the last week that I've been monitoring it.
My patience is tots paying off.
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The TV has a very slight buzz which can be heard when displaying brighter scenes but it's largely drowned out by the fan on back of this set. Yes, plasmas have always had fans on them but this TV has a noticeably loud fan. From what I read it's because of the way Panasonic mounted the fan to the back panel it resonates with the metal and it's surprisingly loud compared to the silence of my old LCD TV. At least it doesn't buzz loudly and constantly like a fluorescent light the way the Samsung plasma I returned did. I wonder if there are any user mods that I can make to quieten the fan a bit.
Yes. fanless VT60 Lite.Is GT60 the one without the fan?
Yes. fanless VT60 Lite.
They didn't want to cannibalize VT60 sales, clearly.That's the one I'll get, then. I'll have to settle for 50" unfortunately. It really sucks that there's no 55" GT60. Why, Panasonic, why.
$2385 is the cheapest I have seen it from Abe's of Maine. I have never ordered from that website though, that is a pretty decent price.
All these reviews of the VT60 + Panasonic ending their plasma line have me on the verge of pulling the trigger on a 60".
Yes. fanless VT60 Lite.
X60, ST60 and GT60 have no fans; their power supply can be a little noisy over white backgrounds, if you're standing close; this on X60 and ST60 (GT60's don't get sold here, so I've never seen one).
VT60 and ZT60 have fans.
Best TV for $500 is without a doubt the Samsung 720p 51" plasma.
Yes, it's 720p, and no, it doesn't matter. Contrast is pretty much the whole game, resolution is not nearly as important.
http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/the-best-500-tv/
http://reviews.cnet.com/8301-33199_...-resolution-rumble-720p-plasma-vs-4k-led-lcd/
Set is on sale at both BB and Kmart/Sears on BF for around $430. Beats the pants off of far more expensive LCD's.
If your budget is higher, get a Panasonic 1080p plasma while you still can.
After the breaking-in hours it shouldn't be.I wanted to invest in a VT60 for the longest, but the fact that I watch a lot of sportscenter, sports in general, and shows with logos always have me skeptic about burn in and IR. Can someone comment on whether or not this is a concern I should be worried about. Any and all comments would be greatly appreciated.
It does; I struggled quite a bit with that "I look forward not back" mentality until I took the plunge on one, but I can really say it was a very good purchase.Getting a 720p TV just feels wrong.
Sony R400A's are good for the price, no doubt.
After the breaking-in hours it shouldn't be.
Within the breaking in I really can't recommend it; I know someone that got his plasma right in time for Tour de France and saw the whole thing on a straight off the box plasma; never ran the scrolling bar during the marathon too. I think he still has the Eurosport logo plastered on it till this day, albeit more faded at this point. That was really irresponsible of him to do on the first few hours though and we warned him.
Outside of the breaking-in hours you should be fine, unless you're really unlucky and get a set more prone to IR than others. Seeing it's late in the production year I wouldn't be too concerned, but I can't vouch for it.
It does; I struggled quite a bit with that "I look forward not back" mentality until I took the plunge on one, but I can really say it was a very good purchase.
But I don't think they're better than a 720p plasma.![]()
Usually 200 hours, but it's 200 hours out of convenience as the phosphor still changes a little after that. That's also why Plasma calibrations should only be made when the plasma already worked for some time.Thanks for your input.. What exactly is the breaking in period, and how long does it last?
Best TV for $500 is without a doubt the Samsung 720p 51" plasma.
Yes, it's 720p, and no, it doesn't matter. Contrast is pretty much the whole game, resolution is not nearly as important.
http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/the-best-500-tv/
http://reviews.cnet.com/8301-33199_...-resolution-rumble-720p-plasma-vs-4k-led-lcd/
Set is on sale at both BB and Kmart/Sears on BF for around $430. Beats the pants off of far more expensive LCD's.
If your budget is higher, get a Panasonic 1080p plasma while you still can.
Got my Panasonic VT65 yesterday! Spent most of the day testing different ISF Calibrated settings. Have a couple I like, but have booked an ISF Calibrator to come round mine in a few weeks once it's burned it in (just in time for the PS4)!
Suffice to say, STUNNING picture quality. I think it might actually have a hairs better black level than the Pioneer (10G) Kuro.
Quick mobile pic.
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I didn't break-in my last plasma with those slides (unlike previous sets I owned), instead I used it normally, and after a good deal of use it reached the phosphor maturity it ought to have; it's no issue, but in the beginning getting some mild-prolonged IR was easy, same can't be said now.
Got my 65VT60, been playing around with it. I've been using the CNET settings as a first rough calibration, though I notice it's not much different from the built-in THX Cinema setting.
Out of the box, image retention doesn't seem to be a noticeable problem with my panel. I haven't really played any games on it a long period of time but I did go through the Ninja Gaiden Sigma 2 demo briefly just because I was testing the input lag and the HUD in the upper left corner of the screen wasn't still there after 15 minutes of playing Ryu badly and getting my ass handed to me by random enemies.
I can't notice the difference in image quality between Game Mode and Not Game Mode. Maybe I should watch a movie to see the difference more obviously. It looks like Panasonic really stepped it up with Game Mode this year, as you can use your calibrated settings with it and they look almost the same with it On and Off.
I don't have any way of testing it but input lag seems good on this TV with Game Mode. Ryu would disagree and tell me to Get Good but I've always sucked at Ninja Gaiden so whatevs. I don't play fighting games either so unless someone wants to gift me a copy of some fighting game on PSN or Steam I won't be able to test this TV with any of that.
The TV has a very slight buzz which can be heard when displaying brighter scenes but it's largely drowned out by the fan on back of this set. Yes, plasmas have always had fans on them but this TV has a noticeably loud fan. From what I read it's because of the way Panasonic mounted the fan to the back panel it resonates with the metal and it's surprisingly loud compared to the silence of my old LCD TV. At least it doesn't buzz loudly and constantly like a fluorescent light the way the Samsung plasma I returned did. I wonder if there are any user mods that I can make to quieten the fan a bit.
The TV has slightly better motion resolution without Game Mode and Dejudder set to Weak than with Game Mode. The difference is largely a wash for gaming but watching movies and TV seems better with a Dejudder setting of some kind. I'm not sure if I'm imagining it or not but there seems to be slight offset with lip sync when Game Mode is left off. I'll fuck around with my home theater and see if I can make that go away, starting with HDMI 1.3 source and output should automatically sync audio and video and eliminate the need for manual adjustments for lip sync.
I watched some YouTube using the Smart TV app. Hooray for Smart TV gimmicks.
I wonder if I should abuse the panel a bit with FFXIV, an MMO with a lot of persistent UI elements, and see if I can make some IR appear.
Which tv's do you not have to worry about burn in? Is it only LCD's?
Use D-Nice's settings for it instead, over at the calibration forums. If you don't want to download his app to use them, just open the zip downloaded XML files containing the settings (found in the forum thread) in notepad or dreamweaver and you can read the settings that way.
Got my Panasonic VT65 yesterday! Spent most of the day testing different ISF Calibrated settings. Have a couple I like, but have booked an ISF Calibrator to come round mine in a few weeks once it's burned it in (just in time for the PS4)!
Suffice to say, STUNNING picture quality. I think it might actually have a hairs better black level than the Pioneer (10G) Kuro.
Quick mobile pic.
![]()
Unknown Soldier
Break in period with slides has to be a minimum of the first 100 hours.
From 100-300 hours you have to be worried about Image-Retention/Burn In the most.
Are the D-nice settings a lot better? His prep regimen you have to run before you use his settings is pretty hardcore.
Grats on the purchase but hmm no to that statement coming from someone who owns both a 500M and ZT60 500M black level is still darker and it is actually measured and proven and as mentioned before Kuro's have high peak white. the ZT in ISF mode cannot go over 36 at least I haven't been able to get it over 36 in mid panel brightness without sacrificing something. I have heard of a few professionals getting it to about 37.5 tops but that's it for ZT in ISF of course unless you go with a different mode then it will go high but again with sacrifice
Quick update on the KDL42W654. I am well happy with this TV. Apart from not having PC input (need to buy DVI to HDMI). And headphone jack not being accessible when the TV is being wall mounted, everything else is great. Picture quality is great, good extra features like all the apps and streaming tablet/smartphone feature. However the thing that stood out for me was input lag, it is great, played Street Fighter and this game has never felt this responsive.