Plasma, LCD, OLED, LED, best tv for next gen

Youre supposed to do it standing but a few minutes in the car is fine, just dont drive too crazy.

yea, be gentle. some people here did it flat with no issues but it's a risk. i'd recommend vertical or get someone to deliver it.
 
GAF, help me decide between the W900A and a P60VT60 (or ZT60). The W900A seems like a great gaming TV, but the plasmas have the much better motion resolution. I currently have a 46" XBR8 and love it, but am looking for something bigger with lower input lag.

Motion resolution/interpolation is a non-issue for the w900. Get the plasma if you are in a light controlled room or viewing a lot for a significant off-angled position. Get the w900 if you watch with light in the environment.
 
So put both BF and killzone's gamma at the default 50%? I'm in a pretty dim basement so the cnet settings should be fine. I'll give your suggestions a try.

When I had that problem with blacks being too dark on my VT60 it was one of those settings I changed but I can't remember, I am thinking it was panel brightness. It was only for games, playing through HDMI on a PC.
 
Motion resolution/interpolation is a non-issue for the w900. Get the plasma if you are in a light controlled room or viewing a lot for a significant off-angled position. Get the w900 if you watch with light in the environment.

Can you elaborate on this? CNET rates its motion resolution as "Poor". http://reviews.cnet.com/flat-panel-tvs/sony-kdl-55w900a/4505-6482_7-35561946-2.html

EDIT: I guess it says max vs dejudder off. Any impact on gaming when keeping it at max?
 
Impulse motion flow on the w900 is the best motion on any LCD panel available and is nearer to Plasma in look. Only downfall is the drastic drop in brightness, but that shouldnt be a big deal for dark room viewing. Not sure how it affects lag in terms of Gaming tho.
 
Impulse motion flow on the w900 is the best motion on any LCD panel available and is nearer to Plasma in look. Only downfall is the drastic drop in brightness, but that shouldnt be a big deal for dark room viewing. Not sure how it affects lag in terms of Gaming tho.

yuck. any "motion" type processing is awful and should never be used. soap opera effect FTL
 
I wonder how much does motion resolution truly matter when nearly every game is smeared in motion blur of its own creation. Same deal with movies. That kind of thing only makes some pixel patterns look odd in old 2D NES games, from personal experience.

yuck. any "motion" type processing is awful and should never be used. soap opera effect FTL

Impulse mode doesn't add any interpolation, there are no artifically added frames, no soap opera effect. It uses backlight scanning to increase motion resolution. The only drawback is considerable brightness reduction.
 
I'm pretty sure I got fucked on my 55" Vizio E550i-A0 from Amazon. I got it on the lightning deal on Black Friday, but it has some serious, serious issues with motion blur and color smearing.

Check out what Skyrim looks like when I move the camera:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b709cpN3KiM

I've seen other videos of motion blur on LEDs and none seem nearly as bad as mine. Did I get a defective set? I'm still within the return period for Amazon. Really thinking about sending this thing back.
 
yuck. any "motion" type processing is awful and should never be used. soap opera effect FTL

Normally I agree, but Sony has some great motion smoothing. Enabling it on my XBR8 does not give a soap opera effect whatsoever. But I've looked at it on Samsung models and can't stand it.
 
I'm pretty sure I got fucked on my 55" Vizio E550i-A0 from Amazon. I got it on the lightning deal on Black Friday, but it has some serious, serious issues with motion blur and color smearing.

Check out what Skyrim looks like when I move the camera:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b709cpN3KiM

I've seen other videos of motion blur on LEDs and none seem nearly as bad as mine. Did I get a defective set? I'm still within the return period for Amazon. Really thinking about sending this thing back.

You can always return it.
First thing, try enabling game mode or PC mode.

IF not, turn OFF anything in the menus like dynamic contrast, dynamic control, black adjust, motion anything. A lot of those cause added motion blur & motion artifacts.
 
You can always return it.
First thing, try enabling game mode or PC mode.

IF not, turn OFF anything in the menus like dynamic contrast, dynamic control, black adjust, motion anything. A lot of those cause added motion blur & motion artifacts.

Did all of that. Game mode is on and all post processing effects are off.

I'm actually noticing the purple ghosting/smear even while watching TV now.
 
Was it just a defective TV or a flaw in the design itself?
im not sure to be honest. It had that same motion smearing/ghosting everywhere. I eventually sold the tv to a relative and never bought another sharp tv. I would hope it was just a defective tv though cause if all of those did that same thing that would be pretty unacceptable.
 
Not sure if it's really really good. But I like it. Think I'm good for a couple a years lol.

This is the set I got and I can't stand it. No outputs, only 2 HDMI and for me the picture is turrible. Color banding too much. Love the size, and when it looks good, it does look amazing. But a lot of the stuff I was viewing on it also looked bad. Maybe it was just my set. Congrats on the upgrade!
 
Guys can anyone help me out here.

I just bought a Vizio m47i-a2

Love the TV but I'm trying to figure out the best picture settings to use for it when watching TV/movies and playing my PS3 and PC.

I tried searching google but can't find nothing.

someone please help if you have any good calibration settings or sites I can visit
 
Anyone with the Panasonic tc-p50s60 able to help with calibration settings? Everything I'm finding online has the brightness at 0 and the gamma at 2.2.

However, with these settings, both Killzone and BF appear really dark on my tv. Should I just adjust the gamma within each game?

For reference, these are the calibration settings I'm using currently: http://forums.cnet.com/7723-19410_102-591233/panasonic-tc-p50s60-picture-settings/

EDIT: Found these from earlier in the thread. Will try. http://www.avsforum.com/t/1466472/2013-panasonic-settings-issues-thread

Did you use break in slides at all? I am using the CNET settings and was having the same problem. I was just adjusting gamma (in the game) on a game by game basis, but after running slides for 20ish hours (ive just been doing it here and there), i noticed Ive had to go in and lower gamma in games. I think it's just part of the process.
 
Vizio 60" LED arrived today. Testing out Pacific Rim Blu on it after a preliminary calibration with a Blu calibration disc. I turned off all post processing as well. It was actually making everything look unnatural. No banding from what I can tell. Will need to download a few calibration tools to check.

In any case, pretty happy with it so far. Sharp and crisp and the colors really pop even after I turned off Color Enhancement. Not bad for $678. Will try some games tomorrow. My allergies are killing me today.

Ba8OzqJIIAA-6by_zps2c64028f.jpg
 
The Infinite Black filter on the ST60 actually seems to make viewing angles a bit worse compared to S60 especially when viewing the screen from up top (TV is on the ground right now).
 
Since the little lady shot down my 5.1 (soundbar) plans, what about a cheapish yet still good 2.1 set up? Would like to keep it a soundbar and wireless sub for a clean look the cats can't mess up too badly.
 
Had my Panasonic VT65 since May and it still blows me the fuck away every time I turn it on - also my friends and family too. The best TV purchase I've ever made, PS4 and Wii U just look sublime on it. Can't recommend it highly enough, especially now there are so few left to purchase - get in there before it's too late.

What settings are you using for PS4?
 
Since the little lady shot down my 5.1 (soundbar) plans, what about a cheapish yet still good 2.1 set up? Would like to keep it a soundbar and wireless sub for a clean look the cats can't mess up too badly.

There are a bunch from Vizio for under $150. I bought one (sans sub SKU) during BF for $58 to put in the kitchen. Sounds decent.
 
Hey GAF, first timer in this thread here. Going to be purchasing a new TV soon, have about $2000(AU) to spend, and after doing some research I think I've got my eye set on the LG 60LN5710. Want to use it primarily for gaming and Blu-Ray, with the occasional non-hd tv watching.

Does anyone own one of these, what are your thoughts on it? I'm totally inexperienced and don't wanna blow 2 grand and make a huge mistake.
 
The TV I ordered is specced to have a 28 ms response time, which is rated good by displaylag.com. But the TV it is replacing states it has a response time of 8 ms grey to grey. Is this grey to grey measuring a sort of fudged spec? Should I be worried about having 3x more latency now?
 
Since the little lady shot down my 5.1 (soundbar) plans, what about a cheapish yet still good 2.1 set up? Would like to keep it a soundbar and wireless sub for a clean look the cats can't mess up too badly.

What were your plans? Were you going to use a sound bar as the centre speaker? If so, you could do a 5.1 discrete setup with pretty small satellites and a sub - might be more acceptable to your partner? I have a set of KEF eggs and they're really discreet.

Alternatively, if you think you can get away with a single sound bar, how about one that bounces around your room to create virtual surround?
 
I've been using a Samsung 8000 series Smart TV for about 6 months now for gaming and laptop HDMI out. My consensus:

- Fantastic colour balance, contrast and detailed blacks (once calibrated and off any of the standard "dynamic" shit). The picture, bar none, is better than any of the other Samsung sets (6 series and 5 series) that I have.
- Most of the smart TV and motion control features are useless.
- Sound is crisp and loud.
- No issues with response time that I see posters mentioning in this thread. With modern TVs this should never be an issue anyhow.
- Automotion/ LED motion Plus is a love it or hate it thing. Turn it off for gaming for sure or you will get artifacting. For movies and television it gives things that eerily real glaze.
- The inherent DLNA solution for media streaming works flawlessly on a 5G network.
- My biggest gripe is that there was a bit of LED bleed around the edges. This has increased to patches of luminescence that can be spotted during dark movies. I actually have a technician coming to look at it on Tuesday and liked take it in for exchange or repair.

All in all, I am happy with the set despite the bleed issue. I wonder if this is a problem with LED technology in its infancy (commercially). I have not noticed this with the new Samsung 4K sets, though that is only through observance in a showroom and not through personal use.
 
Okay I did a bit more research and am now looking at the Panasonic Vierra TH P60ST60a. I think I would have to compare it in stores with the LG led lcd I mentioned before. What do you guys think?
 
Since this is a tech thread, maybe it should be cleared up that LED is not a display technology, its backlighting. You have LCDs with CCFL (cathode tubes along the edges of the screen), LCDs with LEDs (also in along the edges of the screen) or LCDs with a full array of LEDs behind it.

Or have I perhaps missed something and have LEDs already started to be used as a display tech, and gotten cheap? That would be quite the miracle.

It's also weird, that displaylag.com would list LED as a display tech. All the displays listed as LED are just LCD's with LED backlighting.In fact, most are just TN LCD panels, worse than IPS, heh.

So to be clear, current TV's marketed as 'LED' are normal LCD's with LED backlighting.
 
I bought Electa LED TV "1080p , 32 inch , 9mm" and its good for its price "200 $"
while there is definitely much higher details .. the games somehow doesn't look as good
as i expected .. i see more amount of bad textures and bad AA then my CRT TV overall
 
Since this is a tech thread, maybe it should be cleared up that LED is not a display technology, its backlighting. You have LCDs with CCFL (cathode tubes along the edges of the screen), LCDs with LEDs (also in along the edges of the screen) or LCDs with a full array of LEDs behind it.

Or have I perhaps missed something and have LEDs already started to be used as a display tech, and gotten cheap? That would be quite the miracle.

It's also weird, that displaylag.com would list LED as a display tech. All the displays listed as LED are just LCD's with LED backlighting.In fact, most are just TN LCD panels, worse than IPS, heh.

So to be clear, current TV's marketed as 'LED' are normal LCD's with LED backlighting.

yea, most guys here know but it's just easier to refer to them as LCD or LED so there's no confusion when looking up the model. damn marketing. :)
 
The Infinite Black filter on the ST60 actually seems to make viewing angles a bit worse compared to S60 especially when viewing the screen from up top (TV is on the ground right now).

Don't judge based on that. You won't be watching tv with it on the floor and you standing above it. Looking at it in unusual viewing scenarios and drawing some conclusion about the quality of the set makes no sense.

Since this is a tech thread, maybe it should be cleared up that LED is not a display technology, its backlighting. You have LCDs with CCFL (cathode tubes along the edges of the screen), LCDs with LEDs (also in along the edges of the screen) or LCDs with a full array of LEDs behind it.

Or have I perhaps missed something and have LEDs already started to be used as a display tech, and gotten cheap? That would be quite the miracle.

It's also weird, that displaylag.com would list LED as a display tech. All the displays listed as LED are just LCD's with LED backlighting.In fact, most are just TN LCD panels, worse than IPS, heh.

So to be clear, current TV's marketed as 'LED' are normal LCD's with LED backlighting.

The marketing of the OEMs has quite effectively convinced people that they are in fact different techs, which annoys me to no end. I would assume most here understand the reality, but if nothing else it makes for a handy shorthand instead of saying LCD with LED backlight all the time.
 
Anyone with the Panasonic tc-p50s60 able to help with calibration settings? Everything I'm finding online has the brightness at 0 and the gamma at 2.2.

However, with these settings, both Killzone and BF appear really dark on my tv. Should I just adjust the gamma within each game?

For reference, these are the calibration settings I'm using currently: http://forums.cnet.com/7723-19410_102-591233/panasonic-tc-p50s60-picture-settings/

EDIT: Found these from earlier in the thread. Will try. http://www.avsforum.com/t/1466472/2013-panasonic-settings-issues-thread
Hold up, those Dnice settings are for the ST60 only. He never made settings for the s60
 
yea, be gentle. some people here did it flat with no issues but it's a risk. i'd recommend vertical or get someone to deliver it.
I recommend renting a Uhaul truck for like $30, if someone is concerned about it.
edit: oops, accidentally double posted.
 
Don't judge based on that. You won't be watching tv with it on the floor and you standing above it. Looking at it in unusual viewing scenarios and drawing some conclusion about the quality of the set makes no sense.



The marketing of the OEMs has quite effectively convinced people that they are in fact different techs, which annoys me to no end. I would assume most here understand the reality, but if nothing else it makes for a handy shorthand instead of saying LCD with LED backlight all the time.

Who cares what they are called at this point. There are currently very few LCDs that aren't LEDs. It must be marketing evil-doing!
 
I've been using a Samsung 8000 series Smart TV for about 6 months now for gaming and laptop HDMI out. My consensus:

- Fantastic colour balance, contrast and detailed blacks (once calibrated and off any of the standard "dynamic" shit). The picture, bar none, is better than any of the other Samsung sets (6 series and 5 series) that I have.
- Most of the smart TV and motion control features are useless.
- Sound is crisp and loud.
- No issues with response time that I see posters mentioning in this thread. With modern TVs this should never be an issue anyhow.
- Automotion/ LED motion Plus is a love it or hate it thing. Turn it off for gaming for sure or you will get artifacting. For movies and television it gives things that eerily real glaze.
- The inherent DLNA solution for media streaming works flawlessly on a 5G network.
- My biggest gripe is that there was a bit of LED bleed around the edges. This has increased to patches of luminescence that can be spotted during dark movies. I actually have a technician coming to look at it on Tuesday and liked take it in for exchange or repair.

All in all, I am happy with the set despite the bleed issue. I wonder if this is a problem with LED technology in its infancy (commercially). I have not noticed this with the new Samsung 4K sets, though that is only through observance in a showroom and not through personal use.


I have the same set (60") but don't get any bleed on the edges. Also, the "eerily real glaze" is the soap opera affect that you can turn off by adjusting your AutoMotionPlus settings (just putting it on Clear will resolve most issue). Some people really like the soap opera affect because of that 'reality glaze' and it can be argued that it is technically superior to the 24fps of typical film/drama. However, most of us have been conditioned to 24fps ("film cadence") so it just looks weird. Enough people seem to like it that even plasmas which don't need motion interpolation are putting options in there to turn it on and, in fact, "on" is the default setting for those sets.
 
So my VT60 is getting some pretty strong IR as of late. Especially with the Xbox 'orb' on the top-right of the Xbox One Home Screen. Hasn't faded after several hours (although the retention is extremely light, to be fair).

Even the synch bar on Assassin's Creed 4 creates IR after just a couple of hours.

Is this normal or should I send it back? Using dynamic picture settings and it's only a week old, so could it settle over time?
 
What were your plans? Were you going to use a sound bar as the centre speaker? If so, you could do a 5.1 discrete setup with pretty small satellites and a sub - might be more acceptable to your partner? I have a set of KEF eggs and they're really discreet.

Alternatively, if you think you can get away with a single sound bar, how about one that bounces around your room to create virtual surround?
Original plan was the 5.1 Vizio sound bar with works sub and 2 satellite. But with our apartment the would be on stands just a few feet from the door. Might be weird. That setup wood have been 275. The TV is a 60 Vizio.
 
So my VT60 is getting some pretty strong IR as of late. Especially with the Xbox 'orb' on the top-right of the Xbox One Home Screen. Hasn't faded after several hours (although the retention is extremely light, to be fair).
How many operation hours?
Is this normal or should I send it back? Using dynamic picture settings and it's only a week old, so could it settle over time?
NEVER, and I mean NEVER, use Dynamic mode in the break-in period, even after that you'll be murdering the image quality of any set in existence (not just on plasmas), but within the break-in period it's a truly criminal thing to do on a Plasma.

Because (Dynamic mode) on top of being a stinking pile of utter shit IQ-wise it's also bumping the brightness and contrast of the set, remember the only few rules to breaking a plasma in these days are:

- Do not keep static pictures more than an hour
- Keep changing channels occasionally when viewing programs with static and bright logos(Kids program)
- Turn down the picture control (contrast and brightness) to 50% or less.
- Do no use "Dynamic". Most importantly, remember to change the mode for each input channel, ie each HDMI you use.

- While watching movies, i usually keep the aspect ratio to "Zoom2" in order to get the picture to full screen and not let the horizontal black bars visible during the running in period. Opinions can vary here
- Make sure the display is in a viewing mode (aspect ratio) that completely fills the screen (there are often three or more settings from which to choose - Auto, 16:9 or Just).
- Briefly engage the 4:3 mode to confirm the side bars are set to mid-grey (there is usually an adjustment in the Set Up menu that takes the sidebars from black to grey) to minimise the chance of burn-in.
- During the first 200 - 300 hours of use it is best not to view the same channel for extended periods. This should prevent channel logos and other fixed images found on some channels from being retained.
- Avoid any static images (video games, computer images, DVD title screens, etc.) during the 200 hour break-in.

It's trully only two rules, avoid static imagery for long periods by mostly seeing stuff without bars and logos and in the situations you are throwing that out of the window... using the contrast and brightness in moderation, specially for the situations that have bars or logos, this rule is in place for refular TV and Gaming precisely due to them, see... it's a failsafe mechanism.

Also, those can be ignored, the fact I abused my last plasma from the moment it came out of the box can't be said enough, you can play and all that, but you have to know what you're doing, and if not, please follow rules as if it is a newfound religion. Considering you're using dynamic I can only muster you don't know what you're doing (but good thing you asked, that can't be said enough).

You should run Pixel Jogger at this point, with those habits (I'd say revise them, but...) at least get on with the break-in before abusing it that way; it'll help cleanse the IR in the process and later on you can use dynamic all you want; I just hope you won't want to, because it sucks so much balls and you will realize it soon enough.

It's like turning on Dynamic Volume/EQ on a HiFi and expecting anything other than completely murdering the original source.
 
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