Youre supposed to do it standing but a few minutes in the car is fine, just dont drive too crazy.
yea, be gentle. some people here did it flat with no issues but it's a risk. i'd recommend vertical or get someone to deliver it.
Youre supposed to do it standing but a few minutes in the car is fine, just dont drive too crazy.
Not sure if it's really really good. But I like it. Think I'm good for a couple a years lol.
GAF, help me decide between the W900A and a P60VT60 (or ZT60). The W900A seems like a great gaming TV, but the plasmas have the much better motion resolution. I currently have a 46" XBR8 and love it, but am looking for something bigger with lower input lag.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0071NWYP8/?tag=neogaf0e-20
http://store.sony.com/32-class-31.5...cat-27-catid-All-W-Series-TVs?_t=pfm=category
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CI3BP06/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Can anyone tell me which will be the better model? I don't want a higher size because my room is tiny and can't fit anything in it. Help me Gaf you're my only hope.
So put both BF and killzone's gamma at the default 50%? I'm in a pretty dim basement so the cnet settings should be fine. I'll give your suggestions a try.
Motion resolution/interpolation is a non-issue for the w900. Get the plasma if you are in a light controlled room or viewing a lot for a significant off-angled position. Get the w900 if you watch with light in the environment.
Impulse motion flow on the w900 is the best motion on any LCD panel available and is nearer to Plasma in look. Only downfall is the drastic drop in brightness, but that shouldnt be a big deal for dark room viewing. Not sure how it affects lag in terms of Gaming tho.
yuck. any "motion" type processing is awful and should never be used. soap opera effect FTL
yuck. any "motion" type processing is awful and should never be used. soap opera effect FTL
Except that the W900 does not do that at all under that setting.yuck. any "motion" type processing is awful and should never be used. soap opera effect FTL
yuck. any "motion" type processing is awful and should never be used. soap opera effect FTL
I'm pretty sure I got fucked on my 55" Vizio E550i-A0 from Amazon. I got it on the lightning deal on Black Friday, but it has some serious, serious issues with motion blur and color smearing.
Check out what Skyrim looks like when I move the camera:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b709cpN3KiM
I've seen other videos of motion blur on LEDs and none seem nearly as bad as mine. Did I get a defective set? I'm still within the return period for Amazon. Really thinking about sending this thing back.
You can always return it.
First thing, try enabling game mode or PC mode.
IF not, turn OFF anything in the menus like dynamic contrast, dynamic control, black adjust, motion anything. A lot of those cause added motion blur & motion artifacts.
I had a sharp that did that back in the day. I'd return that for sure. Drove me insane.Did all of that. Game mode is on and all post processing effects are off.
I'm actually noticing the purple ghosting/smear even while watching TV now.
I had a sharp that did that back in the day. I'd return that for sure. Drove me insane.
im not sure to be honest. It had that same motion smearing/ghosting everywhere. I eventually sold the tv to a relative and never bought another sharp tv. I would hope it was just a defective tv though cause if all of those did that same thing that would be pretty unacceptable.Was it just a defective TV or a flaw in the design itself?
Not sure if it's really really good. But I like it. Think I'm good for a couple a years lol.
Anyone with the Panasonic tc-p50s60 able to help with calibration settings? Everything I'm finding online has the brightness at 0 and the gamma at 2.2.
However, with these settings, both Killzone and BF appear really dark on my tv. Should I just adjust the gamma within each game?
For reference, these are the calibration settings I'm using currently: http://forums.cnet.com/7723-19410_102-591233/panasonic-tc-p50s60-picture-settings/
EDIT: Found these from earlier in the thread. Will try. http://www.avsforum.com/t/1466472/2013-panasonic-settings-issues-thread
Had my Panasonic VT65 since May and it still blows me the fuck away every time I turn it on - also my friends and family too. The best TV purchase I've ever made, PS4 and Wii U just look sublime on it. Can't recommend it highly enough, especially now there are so few left to purchase - get in there before it's too late.
Since the little lady shot down my 5.1 (soundbar) plans, what about a cheapish yet still good 2.1 set up? Would like to keep it a soundbar and wireless sub for a clean look the cats can't mess up too badly.
Since the little lady shot down my 5.1 (soundbar) plans, what about a cheapish yet still good 2.1 set up? Would like to keep it a soundbar and wireless sub for a clean look the cats can't mess up too badly.
Since the little lady shot down my 5.1 (soundbar) plans, what about a cheapish yet still good 2.1 set up? Would like to keep it a soundbar and wireless sub for a clean look the cats can't mess up too badly.
The TV I ordered is specced to have a 28 ms response time, which is rated good by displaylag.com. But the TV it is replacing states it has a response time of 8 ms grey to grey. Is this grey to grey measuring a sort of fudged spec? Should I be worried about having 3x more latency now?
Since this is a tech thread, maybe it should be cleared up that LED is not a display technology, its backlighting. You have LCDs with CCFL (cathode tubes along the edges of the screen), LCDs with LEDs (also in along the edges of the screen) or LCDs with a full array of LEDs behind it.
Or have I perhaps missed something and have LEDs already started to be used as a display tech, and gotten cheap? That would be quite the miracle.
It's also weird, that displaylag.com would list LED as a display tech. All the displays listed as LED are just LCD's with LED backlighting.In fact, most are just TN LCD panels, worse than IPS, heh.
So to be clear, current TV's marketed as 'LED' are normal LCD's with LED backlighting.
The Infinite Black filter on the ST60 actually seems to make viewing angles a bit worse compared to S60 especially when viewing the screen from up top (TV is on the ground right now).
Since this is a tech thread, maybe it should be cleared up that LED is not a display technology, its backlighting. You have LCDs with CCFL (cathode tubes along the edges of the screen), LCDs with LEDs (also in along the edges of the screen) or LCDs with a full array of LEDs behind it.
Or have I perhaps missed something and have LEDs already started to be used as a display tech, and gotten cheap? That would be quite the miracle.
It's also weird, that displaylag.com would list LED as a display tech. All the displays listed as LED are just LCD's with LED backlighting.In fact, most are just TN LCD panels, worse than IPS, heh.
So to be clear, current TV's marketed as 'LED' are normal LCD's with LED backlighting.
I'm pretty happy with my HT-CT260 and it's at a pretty killer price on Amazon right now.
Hold up, those Dnice settings are for the ST60 only. He never made settings for the s60Anyone with the Panasonic tc-p50s60 able to help with calibration settings? Everything I'm finding online has the brightness at 0 and the gamma at 2.2.
However, with these settings, both Killzone and BF appear really dark on my tv. Should I just adjust the gamma within each game?
For reference, these are the calibration settings I'm using currently: http://forums.cnet.com/7723-19410_102-591233/panasonic-tc-p50s60-picture-settings/
EDIT: Found these from earlier in the thread. Will try. http://www.avsforum.com/t/1466472/2013-panasonic-settings-issues-thread
I recommend renting a Uhaul truck for like $30, if someone is concerned about it.yea, be gentle. some people here did it flat with no issues but it's a risk. i'd recommend vertical or get someone to deliver it.
So how should I feel about this 28 ms input lag? It has a "game mode" if that helps.
Don't judge based on that. You won't be watching tv with it on the floor and you standing above it. Looking at it in unusual viewing scenarios and drawing some conclusion about the quality of the set makes no sense.
The marketing of the OEMs has quite effectively convinced people that they are in fact different techs, which annoys me to no end. I would assume most here understand the reality, but if nothing else it makes for a handy shorthand instead of saying LCD with LED backlight all the time.
I've been using a Samsung 8000 series Smart TV for about 6 months now for gaming and laptop HDMI out. My consensus:
- Fantastic colour balance, contrast and detailed blacks (once calibrated and off any of the standard "dynamic" shit). The picture, bar none, is better than any of the other Samsung sets (6 series and 5 series) that I have.
- Most of the smart TV and motion control features are useless.
- Sound is crisp and loud.
- No issues with response time that I see posters mentioning in this thread. With modern TVs this should never be an issue anyhow.
- Automotion/ LED motion Plus is a love it or hate it thing. Turn it off for gaming for sure or you will get artifacting. For movies and television it gives things that eerily real glaze.
- The inherent DLNA solution for media streaming works flawlessly on a 5G network.
- My biggest gripe is that there was a bit of LED bleed around the edges. This has increased to patches of luminescence that can be spotted during dark movies. I actually have a technician coming to look at it on Tuesday and liked take it in for exchange or repair.
All in all, I am happy with the set despite the bleed issue. I wonder if this is a problem with LED technology in its infancy (commercially). I have not noticed this with the new Samsung 4K sets, though that is only through observance in a showroom and not through personal use.
Original plan was the 5.1 Vizio sound bar with works sub and 2 satellite. But with our apartment the would be on stands just a few feet from the door. Might be weird. That setup wood have been 275. The TV is a 60 Vizio.What were your plans? Were you going to use a sound bar as the centre speaker? If so, you could do a 5.1 discrete setup with pretty small satellites and a sub - might be more acceptable to your partner? I have a set of KEF eggs and they're really discreet.
Alternatively, if you think you can get away with a single sound bar, how about one that bounces around your room to create virtual surround?
How many operation hours?So my VT60 is getting some pretty strong IR as of late. Especially with the Xbox 'orb' on the top-right of the Xbox One Home Screen. Hasn't faded after several hours (although the retention is extremely light, to be fair).
NEVER, and I mean NEVER, use Dynamic mode in the break-in period, even after that you'll be murdering the image quality of any set in existence (not just on plasmas), but within the break-in period it's a truly criminal thing to do on a Plasma.Is this normal or should I send it back? Using dynamic picture settings and it's only a week old, so could it settle over time?
- Do not keep static pictures more than an hour
- Keep changing channels occasionally when viewing programs with static and bright logos(Kids program)
- Turn down the picture control (contrast and brightness) to 50% or less.
- Do no use "Dynamic". Most importantly, remember to change the mode for each input channel, ie each HDMI you use.
- While watching movies, i usually keep the aspect ratio to "Zoom2" in order to get the picture to full screen and not let the horizontal black bars visible during the running in period. Opinions can vary here
- Make sure the display is in a viewing mode (aspect ratio) that completely fills the screen (there are often three or more settings from which to choose - Auto, 16:9 or Just).
- Briefly engage the 4:3 mode to confirm the side bars are set to mid-grey (there is usually an adjustment in the Set Up menu that takes the sidebars from black to grey) to minimise the chance of burn-in.
- During the first 200 - 300 hours of use it is best not to view the same channel for extended periods. This should prevent channel logos and other fixed images found on some channels from being retained.
- Avoid any static images (video games, computer images, DVD title screens, etc.) during the 200 hour break-in.