Plasma, LCD, OLED, LED, best tv for next gen

So my VT60 is getting some pretty strong IR as of late. Especially with the Xbox 'orb' on the top-right of the Xbox One Home Screen. Hasn't faded after several hours (although the retention is extremely light, to be fair).

Even the synch bar on Assassin's Creed 4 creates IR after just a couple of hours.

Is this normal or should I send it back? Using dynamic picture settings and it's only a week old, so could it settle over time?

Don't worry at all.

The half life the the plasma televisions are extremely high. Over the lifetime of the television it will go away.

People need to not worry about image retention / burn-in. Over the lifetime of the television it will fade out and you won't even notice it.
 
I've got LG 32ln5700 next to my TV to double its duty as a monitor for PC and ps4's TV when the main TV is taken. Pretty happy with the IPS screen. Sitting 4 feet away from a 1080p 32 inch screen is pretty epic.
 
I have a LG 50LN5100 tv that has the IPS panel. Extremely low lag and much better than my old shitty Westinghouse. My K/D in BF4 has jumped way up since swapping tvs. Looks phenomenal playing or watching everything.
 
How many operation hours?

I have no idea, is there somewhere in the menu that logs this? I've had it about a week, so probably 50-60hrs.

NEVER, and I mean NEVER, use Dynamic mode in the break-in period, even after that you'll be murdering the image quality of any set in existence (not just on plasmas), but within the break-in period it's a truly criminal thing to do on a Plasma.

Because (Dynamic mode) on top of being a stinking pile of utter shit IQ-wise it's also bumping the brightness and contrast of the set, remember the only two rules of breaking a plasma in these days are either mostly seeing stuff without bars and logos or being varied and... using the contrast and brightness in moderation, specially for the situations that have bars or logos, it's precisely due to them, see... it's a failsafe mechanism.


You should run Pixel Jogger at this point, with those habits (I'd say revise them, but...) at least get on with the break-in before abusing it that way; it'll help cleanse the IR in the process and later on you can use dynamic all you want; I just hope you won't want to, because it sucks so much balls.

Yeah, I tried THX but it just looks like shit. I'm one of those people who likes a vivid picture, not a natural one, and I've been like that my whole life (for better or worse).

This is my first plasma so I had no idea about the risks with doing this. There was no guidance in the manual on it, that's for sure. What's pixel jogger? I've got it sitting on the white/black slider right now and the pixel orbiter has been on the whole time since I had it.

Should I return it (store is happy to) or keep at it and hope it improves?

edit: also, why don't manufacturers just break in the panel before they ship? There's no mention of break-in in the manual or product description at all. Seems pretty anti-consumer if it's indeed a necessity.
 
I have no idea, is there somewhere in the menu that logs this? I've had it about a week, so probably 50-60hrs.



Yeah, I tried THX but it just looks like shit. I'm one of those people who likes a vivid picture, not a natural one, and I've been like that my whole life (for better or worse).

This is my first plasma so I had no idea about the risks with doing this. There was no guidance in the manual on it, that's for sure. What's pixel jogger? I've got it sitting on the white/black slider right now and the pixel orbiter has been on the whole time since I had it.

Should I return it (store is happy to) or keep at it and hope it improves?
Yeah, Plasma is not for you.
 
Does anyone have experience exchanging TVs through Amazon?

I was originally going to return my Vizio E550i-A0 due to the motion blur, but it looks like no one else is experiencing the problem, and well, I hate to lose out on such an awesome deal.

I think I'm going to beg them to ship another TV when they come to pick this one up, and if the new one sucks too, I'll just refuse delivery and have them haul off both...
 
Guys can anyone help me out here.

I just bought a Vizio m47i-a2

Love the TV but I'm trying to figure out the best picture settings to use for it when watching TV/movies and playing my PS3 and PC.

I tried searching google but can't find nothing.

someone please help if you have any good calibration settings or sites I can visit
So no one has a Vizio M in this thread? I've been using these settings for everything, just increased/decreed Sharpness depending if I'm watching tv/movies or playing games:
Picture Mode: Calibrated

Backlight: 75
Brightness:70
Contrast: 73
Color: 53
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 20

Color Temp: Normal
Red Gain: 525
Green Gain: 472
Blue Gain: 443
Red Offset: 505
Green Offset: 512
Blue Offset: 514

Auto Brightness Control: Off
Black Detail: Medium
Smart Dimming: On
Smooth Motion Effect: Medium
Reduce Signal Noise: Off
Reduce Block Noise: Off
Film Mode: Auto


A lot of people I've seen use CNET's settings, but those just...don't look good. Anyone has any input? (btw the TV is a dark room)
 
I have no idea, is there somewhere in the menu that logs this? I've had it about a week, so probably 50-60hrs.
Yes:

Main Menu > Help > System Info > Status 4 "C-----"

The part after the C is the operating hours.

It's too early for Dynamic, 500 hours of normal operation too early. (or 100/150h with pixel jogger)
Yeah, I tried THX but it just looks like shit.
THX should only be used for films too (preferably after the break-in, just because of mistakes like the movie ending and being left in the bluray menu for hours).

THX turns off stuff like Pixel Shifting/Pixel Orbiter and optimizes for the most stable IQ result (meaning the subfields are really refreshing the same image and not nuanced versions), combine that with full on brightness and it's the only mode that can be more harmful for the TV than Dynamic.
I'm one of those people who likes a vivid picture, not a natural one, and I've been like that my whole life (for better or worse).
I'd like to say that I'm sorry for coming across like you murdered my dog or something. But I have a vendetta against Dynamic as I'm sure you realized.

As for liking vivid colors over real colors, you're simply not used to it (having a properly calibrated set/tv) hence you are probably used to messing with TV's settings and trying to compensate on the settings for their downfalls; everybody likes colors, and it's better having them than not having them, which is really the deficit on crappy TV's.

I usually take the loudness war example to say this, but basically you probably never had top range equipment before this, hence, imagine you had some regular earbuds, you'd use them as loud as possible because they really couldn't go farther than that and their maximum still didn't feel defined enough; due to that you'd probably appreciate the fact somebody destroyed an album audio quality (*cough* RHCP's Californication *cough*) as a means to bump the sound over the walls of what was possible on your equipment. From the moment you get some good headphones everything changes, you start hearing details you were never able to before, and stuff simply sounds better. And all of a sudden stuff artificially bumped up in volume sounds like a crime, but before you realize that you'll use them the same way you always did.

Audiophiles of course, were never impressed by those shenanigans, but you'd be hard pressed for a dude that actually uses his home audio system at more than 25% sound; they sound good also because of that (not to mention being way more durable not risking blowing them). Everything "maximum" is stress, and stress is something to avoid on expensive equipment (even because sometimes they have lower thresholds because they think you know what you're doing); one good example is the THX mode on Plasmas, as it turns off some failsafe mechanisms. It assumes you know your shit.

What I mean to say is most uses and habits we create on crap equipment don't translate well (Specially out-of-the-box), because they consist in abusing something, and although something bad being abused might pose a good enough tradeoff it's rarely a good idea to do with good equipment, the good news is that, other than due to habits, you shouldn't need to.
This is my first plasma so I had no idea about the risks with doing this. There was no guidance in the manual on it, that's for sure. What's pixel jogger? I've got it sitting on the white/black slider right now and the pixel orbiter has been on the whole time since I had it.
True, I myself think Dynamic shouldn't be in these sets altogether, but you essentially fell into a stress test of a plasma during break-in.

It's not in the manual because regular use is seeing TV and films, IR is normal during the break-in and it'll go away; the current IR you have most likely will too (you didn't abuse it for that many hours) my plasma during break in (I've told you I abused it) had plenty IR, and it took hours to tone down with the Scroll Bar. After the 500 hour mark, hours of abuse just go away by changing the channel and waiting 2/3 minutes.

I could use Dynamic 100% of the time and even throw static imagery at it.

This is the pixel jogger. (complete with settings to use it, and the settings to put afterwards ;))
Should I return it (store is happy to) or keep at it and hope it improves?
You have the best TV 2013 money can buy, I'd say keep it, and even if it was permanent trade it in for another while you can.

But you have a bit to learn as to how to appreciate it. (which is not much of a problem to have with a good TV set, you should enjoy it)
edit: also, why don't manufacturers just break in the panel before they ship? There's no mention of break-in in the manual or product description at all. Seems pretty anti-consumer if it's indeed a necessity.
I don't know, probably because of the fact it's a production line and they can't afford to do that, but mostly because the need for break-in is not as severe, you can actually use the TV while breaking it in now. At some point they came with breaking in DVD's and instructions to run them for hours on end.

It's a little bit like how car brands not telling you engines have a break-in period... Not even on the manual. But people in the know know that those limitations are in place, even if the engine's comes "broken-in".

That said they should certainly explain the things I just did about contrasts and the like in the manual.
Don't worry at all.

The half life the the plasma televisions are extremely high. Over the lifetime of the television it will go away.

People need to not worry about image retention / burn-in. Over the lifetime of the television it will fade out and you won't even notice it.
I know of a person that nuked an otherwise perfectly fine VT60 out of existence by using dynamic out-of-the-box complete with high brightness and hundred of hours playing the same game (Dark Souls) while he prohibited people in his place from watching TV on his "prized possession™" ie: seeing TV on this TV is a waste of operating hours, let me abuse it to no end during break-in period instead.

Fact is the use he is giving the set is something to worry about in the break-in period; he can go back to that kind of use after the panel has proper mileage in it but for the time-being he really needs to not make it any worse.
 
Could you anyone provide some insight into an "issue" I'm having with my ST60? I'm putting issue in quotes because it might just be inherent to plasma and to a certain degree I believe it is. I love the blacks, they're completely incredible and just as black as the bezel. However if the source black isn't completely dark I'll get this greenish tint on the blacks, it's green pixels jumping around on the black surface. I just finished watching Crank which is supposed to have great picture quality and I got it there occasionally. I got it too during the (AC4 spoilers)
Observatory part
. It's not just the PS4 as a source because it happens on other sources as well. It seems like changing picture modes does affect it because it's way worse on normal than cinema but I still find it noticeably and I was hoping there might be some fix? I can try to take pictures, do tests or explain the issue better if it's unclear but hopefully someone knows what I'm talking about.
 
Who cares what they are called at this point. There are currently very few LCDs that aren't LEDs. It must be marketing evil-doing!

So you think all tv marketing is done for noble, benevolent reasons??? LOL. The reason you see very few CCFL backlit LCD'S is that the use of LED'S allows the tv to be made very thin, which people like more than image quality, so it sells.

So to act as though the manufacturers didn't heavily market LED backlit LCD'S as some amazing new display technology is naive to say the least. They did and it worked based on how many people don't realize their "LED" TV's are really just an LCD. The fact that you largely don't find many with a CCFL backlight is irrelevant.
 
Could you anyone provide some insight into an "issue" I'm having with my ST60? I'm putting issue in quotes because it might just be inherent to plasma and to a certain degree I believe it is. I love the blacks, they're completely incredible and just as black as the bezel. However if the source black isn't completely dark I'll get this greenish tint on the blacks, it's green pixels jumping around on the black surface. I just finished watching Crank which is supposed to have great picture quality and I got it there occasionally. I got it too during the (AC4 spoilers)
Observatory part
. It's not just the PS4 as a source because it happens on other sources as well. It seems like changing picture modes does affect it because it's way worse on normal than cinema but I still find it noticeably and I was hoping there might be some fix? I can try to take pictures, do tests or explain the issue better if it's unclear but hopefully someone knows what I'm talking about.
I'm not identifying the issue, but there are a few hyphotesis to consider.

The first is Phosphor Trails, doesn't make sense on a black surface, but it would make sense if it were moving high contrast contours because green (and yellow) are the slowest plasma colors of the bunch.

Over a surface shape/tone, it sounds like the subfield drive interpolating results to achieve a color, try Professional mode (if the TV has it) with PN-R Off and Pixel Orbiter Auto.

Other root to the problem could be the the "HDMI Content Type", Try several settings there, with and without Pixel Direct being on. (The right mode for PC's being plugged onto the ST60 is Pixel Direct+HDMI content Type set to "photo")

You can also try and mess with the green, with those blacks onscreen turn down green gain and cutoff and see the results.

Yet another reason for the issue could be the Gamma settings, they should be in the TV (ideal TV gama is usually 2.2) as well as sometimes in the console as well (360 has settings ranging from Standard/Intermediate/Expanded and PS3 has the following "Limited/Full" I don't know about PS4). Still, doesn't hurt to toggle between settings, start on the TV, then move onto the console. Another option is Color Space; after gamma do mess with that.
 
Ok guys, I'm doing it....I'm going 4K. I have had the same television back home for the past 10 years...Sony HDTV that doesn't even have HDMI ports! I posted about it in the 4k thread, but never really got a clear answer.

Question is, do I go with the Sony x900 series, Samsung 9000 series, or LG 9650 series?

I'm leaning towards the Samsung because of the "Evolution bar" upgrade that I can do whenever they release updated specs. But man, this is such a hard choice!
 
Could you anyone provide some insight into an "issue" I'm having with my ST60? I'm putting issue in quotes because it might just be inherent to plasma and to a certain degree I believe it is. I love the blacks, they're completely incredible and just as black as the bezel. However if the source black isn't completely dark I'll get this greenish tint on the blacks, it's green pixels jumping around on the black surface. I just finished watching Crank which is supposed to have great picture quality and I got it there occasionally. I got it too during the (AC4 spoilers)
Observatory part
. It's not just the PS4 as a source because it happens on other sources as well. It seems like changing picture modes does affect it because it's way worse on normal than cinema but I still find it noticeably and I was hoping there might be some fix? I can try to take pictures, do tests or explain the issue better if it's unclear but hopefully someone knows what I'm talking about.

My plasma has that too. I believe it's normal, as those green pixel fuzzies are how it generates black gradations. You should only be able to see them up close though, not from the sofa.

lostinblue, thank you so much for your help. Your reply is huge, so I'll read it when I'm not on my phone ;)
 
Ok guys, I'm doing it....I'm going 4K. I have had the same television back home for the past 10 years...Sony HDTV that doesn't even have HDMI ports! I posted about it in the 4k thread, but never really got a clear answer.

Question is, do I go with the Sony x900 series, Samsung 9000 series, or LG 9650 series?

I'm leaning towards the Samsung because of the "Evolution bar" upgrade that I can do whenever they release updated specs. But man, this is such a hard choice!
It's too soon for 4K; there's no video for it, there's no consoles supporting that resolution for games and they tend to be lagged as fuck in comparison to the very best 1080p HDTV you can buy, it's spending money for nothing.

Plus, at the distance you'll be using it... it should be innefective. How far will you be from the sofa and how many inches are you buying? I'll throw in data according to that answer.


But, if you really must and seeing you're on Neogaf, from those go Sony all the way, the lag in it is 40 ms; Samsung and LG fall within the 66 and 75 ms respectively. If you were in a cinema-phile forum I'd probably say the LG one instead, as it is OLED.

We don't know wether the blue led lifespan issue is completely resolved until some newer sets get to be 30.000 hours old or so, though.

I think you're rushing it.
 
Ok guys, I'm doing it....I'm going 4K. I have had the same television back home for the past 10 years...Sony HDTV that doesn't even have HDMI ports! I posted about it in the 4k thread, but never really got a clear answer.

Question is, do I go with the Sony x900 series, Samsung 9000 series, or LG 9650 series?

I'm leaning towards the Samsung because of the "Evolution bar" upgrade that I can do whenever they release updated specs. But man, this is such a hard choice!

From what I had seen yesterday, it's a toss up. I like the Samsung top box setup. I love the colours, there was no real blooming that I had seen. I also like the look of the set when it's off. The interface was easier to use, and I was able to make the changes quicker on the Sammy.

I preferred the motion on the Sony though. While watching the same feed back to back, the panning was smoother on the Sony. I also found the blacks to be a tad better on the Sony. The motion is important to me since I watch a boat load of sports, so I give the nod to the Sony right now. I don't like the fact that I can't remove those speakers though...

Honestly we are so close to CES, that I would wait to see what they have in the pipeline for us. I'm personally hoping for a larger set 75"+ that won't demolish my bank account.
 
So i'm running Dnice's slides on my S60 and the white isn't being displayed as white, more grayish in tone. Picture mode is custom and settings are defualt(like recommended). thing is, when I hit the menu it actually displays the white slide as white instead of a light grey. Am I doing something wrong?
 
So you think all tv marketing is done for noble, benevolent reasons??? LOL. The reason you see very few CCFL backlit LCD'S is that the use of LED'S allows the tv to be made very thin, which people like more than image quality, so it sells.

So to act as though the manufacturers didn't heavily market LED backlit LCD'S as some amazing new display technology is naive to say the least. They did and it worked based on how many people don't realize their "LED" TV's are really just an LCD. The fact that you largely don't find many with a CCFL backlight is irrelevant.

Better looking tvs sell better even when they are off? That should be obvious. My wife loves the .3" bezel and 1.5" thickness (and most of it is just .6" thick). It just looks much more modern than something clunky that has .8"+ bezels and is 2"+ thick.

My point though is that it doesn't make sense to rant about the ongoing use of the "LED" moniker as at this point as they are pretty much all LED LCDs.
 
So i'm running Dnice's slides on my S60 and the white isn't being displayed as white, more grayish in tone. Picture mode is custom and settings are defualt(like recommended). thing is, when I hit the menu it actually displays the white slide as white instead of a light grey. Am I doing something wrong?

Sounds normal for a plasma. It shouldn't be obviously gray though...it just won't be a pure white.
 
So i'm running Dnice's slides on my S60 and the white isn't being displayed as white, more grayish in tone. Picture mode is custom and settings are defualt(like recommended). thing is, when I hit the menu it actually displays the white slide as white instead of a light grey. Am I doing something wrong?

It's normal. Plasmas use a lot of power when displaying bright scenes, particularly white screens. When this happens the ABL (automatic brightness limiter) will lower the contrast/white level to keep power consumption down. Panasonic's menu is dark and takes up most of the screen, so that's why the white level returns to normal when the menu is open. ABL can't be turned off unfortunately.
 
So no one has a Vizio M in this thread? I've been using these settings for everything, just increased/decreed Sharpness depending if I'm watching tv/movies or playing games:
Picture Mode: Calibrated

Backlight: 75
Brightness:70
Contrast: 73
Color: 53
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 20

Color Temp: Normal
Red Gain: 525
Green Gain: 472
Blue Gain: 443
Red Offset: 505
Green Offset: 512
Blue Offset: 514

Auto Brightness Control: Off
Black Detail: Medium
Smart Dimming: On
Smooth Motion Effect: Medium
Reduce Signal Noise: Off
Reduce Block Noise: Off
Film Mode: Auto


A lot of people I've seen use CNET's settings, but those just...don't look good. Anyone has any input? (btw the TV is a dark room)

I use Dr. Schankenstein's settings from AVS forum as well but with Game Mode and Smooth Motion set to medium. Using Game mode does not create the soap opera effect when using smooth motion so I find it ideal to use with any media.

I have a M501d-a2 btw.
 
The Infinite Black filter on the ST60 actually seems to make viewing angles a bit worse compared to S60 especially when viewing the screen from up top (TV is on the ground right now).

The filter is there to reduce light from for example lights in the ceiling, that's why it looks darker when looking from above. No filter in the S60 so that's why it looks different.

Is this normal or should I send it back? Using dynamic picture settings and it's only a week old, so could it settle over time?

There's your problem, as people have pointed out already. I'd say if you want to use settings like that you are better off with a LCD-TV, not that it would look better or more correct on a LCD just that there's less of a risk to damage your display. Plasma TVs are all about a natural picture.

Could you anyone provide some insight into an "issue" I'm having with my ST60? I'm putting issue in quotes because it might just be inherent to plasma and to a certain degree I believe it is. I love the blacks, they're completely incredible and just as black as the bezel. However if the source black isn't completely dark I'll get this greenish tint on the blacks, it's green pixels jumping around on the black surface.

Sounds like dithering, which is normal for a Plasma TV and shouldn't be visable from a normal viewing distance. Google it and see what you can learn.

http://www.highdefjunkies.com/plasm...those-buying-their-first-hdtv-flat-panel.html
 
Youre supposed to do it standing but a few minutes in the car is fine, just dont drive too crazy.

yeah I didn't want to take the chance...had my cousin bring his Rav4, and it barely fit.

it's still in the box though, I was superstitious about changing TVs for the 9er game (2 game winning streak)...especially for this game against the Seahawks....and that worked and we won! \o/

but will hook it up tomorrow...not worried about next week, with superstitions and the Bucs.

I've been holding back playing Killzone since launch to play it on the W900...now I can finally start it. :D
 
My first projector(Benq 1080ST) and I love it, its as bright as my tv even in eco mode. I dont have the best set up though, I just used an old tv stand lying around.

Taken with phone camera flash on/off.
i28Qz1GqgDZc4.jpg

i7nRBOiR9UB4o.jpg
100" screen was $100 from costco and projector was $800. My only problem is that the projector is pretty loud so its really only good for watching movies.
 
I double checked the back and looked at the manual that came with it, and there's no headphone in port to be found.
I hadn't realized you purchased it and that omission seemed too strange to be true.

I double checked on the manuals... I was already taking your word for it, but was looking into the following: If that's the case then check wether or not the white and red RCA's from the component-out output sound when not being fed via analog means (ie: if they output good old stereo when using a hdmi source). I'm not counting on that because the manuals don't mention it, but you never know.

... But in the advent of that not being in the cards you'll need a toslink/SPDIF/digital audio out to analog converter; bare in mind that these are not the cheap adapters you see around ebay which are meant for plugging into 3.5 mm jacks that pass toslink through them (like with Macbooks and the like). In your case you have digital and you want analog so you need a properly energy fed converter.

They're not expensive by any means, but you'll have to go for a toslink to rca converter and then get an extra adapter/cable from male rca to female 3.5mm.

Really puzzling choice on Samsung's end.
 
Still messing with my Vizio 60" TV. A lil annoyed with the minor flashlighting in the lower right. I'm hoping I get used to it cuz my Dell monitor has the same issue. Not really noticeable with full screen content but maybe black bars during movies might be an issue. It's not annoying enough to be worth returning/exchanging. But I might end up making this my secondary TV instead for broadcast TV over my main entertainment room. Gonna keep my eye on the Panny plasmas or the W900. Or maybe any future 4k sets. Not 100% satisfied but good enough for gaming.

Also, gave my old 50" Panny plasma to my folks and dear god, forgot how heavy they actually were. The 60" plasmas are definitely worse right? ;)
 
Man, I am LOVING my VT60!

Blacks and colors are so incredible. The Dark Knight and Pacific Rim blu ray looked stunning. Gonna try to get my hands on the Avatar blu ray as well. Anyone else have any suggestions?

I currently have it set to THX Cinema with the contrast turned up a little to 65.
 
Man, I am LOVING my VT60!

Blacks and colors are so incredible. The Dark Knight and Pacific Rim blu ray looked stunning. Gonna try to get my hands on the Avatar blu ray as well. Anyone else have any suggestions?

I currently have it set to THX Cinema with the contrast turned up a little to 65.
Adventures of Tintin
King Kong
Life of Pi
 
THX turns off stuff like Pixel Shifting/Pixel Orbiter and optimizes for the most stable IQ result (meaning the subfields are really refreshing the same image and not nuanced versions), combine that with full on brightness and it's the only mode that can be more harmful for the TV than Dynamic.

How on earth can THX be more harmful than Dynamic?

Do you even realise how the Pixel Orbiter on Panasonic TV's works? It shifts the image one line left, right, up or down at set intervals, it will do nothing to actually prevent retention since most of the static image will still be covering almost the same amount of pixels, you may end up with less sharp retention but it will still be there.

I've had Pixel Orbiter disabled on my ST50 since I've had the TV and have no retention issues at all.
 
Ok so I'm in the market for a new tv currently and for the last 3 years I've been rocking a Hannspree ST42DMSB 42 which has been pretty good for me with gaming and movies but I'm now looking to upgrade to a 50-55". My budget is around $700 and it could either be a lcd or plasma as my room doesn't get very much light. any recommendations?


also does anyone know any good calibrations setting for a ST42DMSB?
 
A few pics of my recently bought W1070.
The thing is lovely !
It's quite a bit too bright for a light-controlled room, si I bought a neutral density filter to calm it down a bit, does wonders.

Played some mario last night, the colors are impressive and the sharpness incredible for such a low price.

OF7MCKg.png


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On my Samsung F6640 for comparison
9bf7wLm.png


A few other pics, mid-calibration, so might not be as good.

LwSI50J.png


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The short throw of this unit is really useful. Here is the biggest image with a 3,4m projection distance, to get an idea :

o63Vd5V.png



Bonus pic of my dual hdmi setup with W1070 and Samsung F6640 ( lovely TV btw, I'm more and more impressed by it every day ) .

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How on earth can THX be more harmful than Dynamic?

Do you even realise how the Pixel Orbiter on Panasonic TV's works? It shifts the image one line left, right, up or down at set intervals, it will do nothing to actually prevent retention since most of the static image will still be covering almost the same amount of pixels, you may end up with less sharp retention but it will still be there.

I've had Pixel Orbiter disabled on my ST50 since I've had the TV and have no retention issues at all.
Hey, hey. Calm down.

I know how Pixel Orbiter works, it doesn't really prevent retention but it makes it lighter and less 1:1 defined, more like a blob. Precisely because it's shifting pixels in the subfields. I doesn't prevent IR but it does help make it lighter to clean during the break-in period.

Notice that you can't really turn it off (Auto is the lowest preset on most modes) while THX nukes it from the face of the earth. And what I said, if you look atentively is, if you go THX, and pull brightness to max while de-calibrating it (recreating Dynamic mode peaks) and then pull stuff like static imagery in a TV then you're in a world for pain.

And I stand by that even if Pixel Orbiter gains are mostly insubstantial, it's a failsafe mechanism still.


And it's off (well, on auto) on mine too.
 
Did you use break in slides at all? I am using the CNET settings and was having the same problem. I was just adjusting gamma (in the game) on a game by game basis, but after running slides for 20ish hours (ive just been doing it here and there), i noticed Ive had to go in and lower gamma in games. I think it's just part of the process.
Ahh. Interesting. I did not use the slides. The preset "home theater" option actually looks really good. I may go back to the CNET settings later on.

Plasmas have a great picture, but they can be tricky sometimes. Thanks for mentioning that about the slides!
 
I just found out my TV is simulview compatible - that odd mode the playstation monitor originally supported, where you can play a 2 player game and each of you gets a completely different view?

How do I find out which games actually support it? And I guess I need special glasses? Its a passive set so that should just be two left lenses and two right lenses? Can probably hack a couple of pairs of cinema glasses to try it out.

It'd be cool if the TV could apply that to standard splitscreen games. there would be some distortion but it could work.
 
Thread is huge but i am looking at 50" telly's under $1k....am i correct in thinking the Panasonic S60 is the best choice?

lighting is dark and smart tv nonsense isn't important.
 
Just got my 60" Samsung 5300 plasma delivered. Anyone have a link to the proper break-in instructions? I remember reading about some slides...
 
How on earth can THX be more harmful than Dynamic?

Do you even realise how the Pixel Orbiter on Panasonic TV's works? It shifts the image one line left, right, up or down at set intervals, it will do nothing to actually prevent retention since most of the static image will still be covering almost the same amount of pixels, you may end up with less sharp retention but it will still be there.

I've had Pixel Orbiter disabled on my ST50 since I've had the TV and have no retention issues at all.

Yeah. It's useless and breaking in a plasma has nothing to do with image retention.
It'll get the same IR at 5 hours as it will at 500 hours. Just use common sense.
 
It'll get the same IR at 5 hours as it will at 500 hours. Just use common sense.
Not true on the sets I owned (3 Panasonic's, at that) I can vouch for that.

And breaking a plasma-in has everything to do with IR, phosphor straight out of the factory is at the lack of a better term, very excitable and lazy; proper mileage will ensure it behaves properly; hence IR being a non-issue much more than it really is out of the box.


Mild IR retention is a bitch to clean on a new set; and 1 hour of exposure to static imagery then makes for stronger retention than 1 hour does now (no comparison, really); also, one can run 5 hours of scroll bar on it and see it diminishing but not completly gone just yet; here I don't even need to go scroll bar on it, change channel, blink... and it's just gone.


IR is a total no factor now, in this last set, after it hit roughly 500 hours of use sans-break-in; I was tracking it attentively and noticed night and day difference from the 400 to the 500 hour mark, of course that varies according to the use; via pixel jogger 200 hours probably achieve the same results or better.
 
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