Low Moral Fibre
Member
It's like a super low stakes version of the Fight Club scene with the car. As long as returns are under a certain amount the risk of drift is ok with all of the gaming companies if it saves a few $ on production costs.
Thats why nobody will remember you, to the ignore listI literally don't believe you.
I'd counter though and say they do more than ever. I could in theory use a PS5 controller for gaming on my PC, on a PS5, on my Nvidia Shield, etc. They have more utitlity than they've ever had in the past and feel as good or better than they ever have in the hand. It does NOT excuse build quality, but it does make me feel better about a purchase. I don't know the repair difficulty on the DS5 controller, but I'd bet replacing a tension spring in a trigger is a pretty easy fix if past fixes on my other controllers are any indication.Yes the shitty controller is a known issue for the DS5 namely the tension springs in the triggers breaking down in less than 400 hours. They dont make them like they used to.
Thats all well and good; fact is the controllers are cheaply built and most people arent mechanical engineers with the know how, time, money, and access to resources to do the repair themselves. Starting with N64 joystick, these companies realized they could sell a product with a baked in failure vector forcing people to buy more accessories. The cheapness of console controllers hit its stride last gen and we arw currently at an all time low. Even the premium options like the xbox elite 1 and 2 are cheaply built and of poor quality compared to the og xbox and 360 controllers. The industry has sold out and become a racket.I'd counter though and say they do more than ever. I could in theory use a PS5 controller for gaming on my PC, on a PS5, on my Nvidia Shield, etc. They have more utitlity than they've ever had in the past and feel as good or better than they ever have in the hand. It does NOT excuse build quality, but it does make me feel better about a purchase. I don't know the repair difficulty on the DS5 controller, but I'd bet replacing a tension spring in a trigger is a pretty easy fix if past fixes on my other controllers are any indication.
Shit wears down as it get's older. It's a part of everything from engines to any electronics in general. Sucks that it happens, but take it in stride, DO bring it up so that others can be informed and just be prepared to fix it yourself if it's out of warranty or buy an extended warranty if the idea of fixing anything frightens you.
I think some people would be surprised how easy it is to fix your own electronics if they knew how little effort actually goes into it.
I don't disagree with you one bit and you have my axe(that i've repaired myself) if and when you want to make that fight. It DOES suck and there's NO good excuse for the build quality of the controllers that are being sold. I'm just saying, purchasing an extended warranty is an option outside of the year-long(?) warranties that come with them. One should hold them accountable, but other than not buy a controller or extended warranty, you'll sit there with a defective product as it is if you don't want to repair it yourself.Thats all well and good; fact is the controllers are cheaply built and most people arent mechanical engineers with the know how, time, money, and access to resources to do the repair themselves. Starting with N64 joystick, these companies realized they could sell a product with a baked in failure vector forcing people to buy more accessories. The cheapness of console controllers hit its stride last gen and we arw currently at an all time low. Even the premium options like the xbox elite 1 and 2 are cheaply built and of poor quality compared to the og xbox and 360 controllers. The industry has sold out and become a racket.
$30 for the parts sure, but what about the tools to perform the repair or a proper outfitted location, not to mention the know how?I don't disagree with you one bit and you have my axe(that i've repaired myself) if and when you want to make that fight. It DOES suck and there's NO good excuse for the build quality of the controllers that are being sold. I'm just saying, purchasing an extended warranty is an option outside of the year-long(?) warranties that come with them. One should hold them accountable, but other than not buy a controller or extended warranty, you'll sit there with a defective product as it is if you don't want to repair it yourself.
And that aside, you don't need to be a mechanical engineer to fix 85% of the problems one would have with a controller. Just patience and the ability to google things. Without even checking, I'd bet I could find detailed instructions on how to replace a spring or stick in a PS5 controller from multiple different sites and the cost of components to fix those things that are almost assuredly a few bucks at best.
I had to fix a cracked Wii U tablet recently, $150+ to send it to Nintendo to fix or $30 to buy a screen, spend an hour with a youtube video on my phone stepping me through the process of repair. And then another 20 mins. after that to take it apart again and put it back together correctly with the trigger springs in place. It's super simple but annoying thing to fix sure but people like to make repairs more difficult than it is because they want instant gratification and/or are too lazy to do it themselves. It's a good lesson in life to learn early that shit is gonna break.... Do your research and be prepared one way or the other is all I'm saying.
A friend's mouse was drifting recently in games. No kidding.Switch drifts, PS4 drifts, PS5 drifts, XBOX drifts, XSX drifts.
So glad I use a M+KB
Older controllers had much bigger dead zones in sticks. That's why they didn't drifted that much. IMO Series X controller has much better build quality than X360 one.Even the premium options like the xbox elite 1 and 2 are cheaply built and of poor quality compared to the og xbox and 360 controllers.
Older controllers had much bigger dead zones in sticks. That's why they didn't drifted that much. IMO Series X controller has much better build quality than X360 one.
Was the dead zone size dependent on tv resolution? ( sd vs hd) ?All I can say is agree to disagree, the duke and early 360 controllers from a purely mechanical perspective were unparalleled workhorses.Older controllers had much bigger dead zones in sticks. That's why they didn't drifted that much. IMO Series X controller has much better build quality than X360 one.
Was the dead zone size dependent on tv resolution? ( sd vs hd) ?All I can say is agree to disagree, the duke and early 360 controllers from a purely mechanical perspective were unparalleled workhorses.
In my case, the $30 for the screen came with two magnetic screwdrivers. YouTube walkthroughs did the rest. And I did all the work on a kitchen table. It's not the daunting undertaking that you might think it is and really the only obstacle stopping you from doing a majority of repairs yourself is your own drive and motivation. Most repair items are sold as kits or at a minimum tell you what you'll need.$30 for the parts sure, but what about the tools to perform the repair or a proper outfitted location, not to mention the know how?
These smaller things add up and that is my point. Your avg child or teeneager isn't going to be able to easily breeze through these things even with a you tube video the way you can. They are all barriers to entry that add up and these billion dollar souless corps know it, thats why the shit is built with slave labor in China. In the end most will lose and nintendo and microsoft are no better tham hot tub streams on twitch.
That's all true. Especially about L3/R3 buttons. Fun fact. Sticks are actually tested to be clicked only in central position. That was especially visible with Valve Index controllers where stick wasn't clickable at all when fully pushed in one direction.exactly. with shooters becoming more and more popular, controllers had to adapt to that, and small deadzones help immensely with more precise aiming. but not only the controllers themselves have smaller deadzones, games do too. the default deadzone in many modern shooters is way smaller than in old ones.
and most of the better ones also let you adjust your deadzone more or less freely.
BUT stick drift is not only deadzone related. if the contacts in your stick are worn down you will drift regardless of deadzone, because that is simply a defect of the contacts that give out wrong values. your stick can be perfectly centered and it still can in extreme cases give readings like if you would move the stick all the way to the edge.
the reason I think it is more of a problem now than it was back in the og Xbox and 360 days, is because now more and more people play more and more competitive shooters online for longer than ever before. R3/RS and L3/LS button presses also make it harder keeping the contacts in good condition, and shooters use those buttons more than any other game. you are constantly clicking your sticks in modern shooters. be it with the standard control scheme or custom ones. AND you click them WHILE moving them... this stuff combined are a fucking stress test galore for analog sticks.
the worst that happened back in the og Xbox days is when children were way to hard with the sticks and the springs wore down over time, making the stick loose and not centering correctly anymore. this is a completely different form of stick drift. the springs not centering is the obvious way a stick can drift, but if you don't know how the inner workings actually, well, work... then you'd never know about the conductive material getting worn down and detecting false inputs, being completely independent from the issue of centering
re-centering issues are not as bad tho, since you can adjust to that and every controller has that to a small degree out of the box. I play with an almost non existent deadzone in Apex Legends for example, and my PS4 controller's right stick has a slight drift upwards because of it not centering 100% in the middle. but I can adjust to that easily and the tradeoff is worth it for the additional precision it gives me.
BUT my left stick recently started drifting because of the war inside the stick and the conductive material flaking off, so I sometimes just start walking forwards sporadically without any stick movement being involved and the stick being 100% centered.
No. Smaller deadzone means better precision of control and better feel of controller. That's why we had some sort of race to bottom with deadzone size.Was the dead zone size dependent on tv resolution? ( sd vs hd)
They actually have bigger problem with drift than standard controllers. Probably combination of adjustable tension (higher wear of potentiometers) and being bought mostly by people playing competitive games (especially shooters).The elite controllers feel the closest in durability to 360
How pissed would people be though if Sony raised the price to $100 for a better controller
All my three Dualsenses have drift.Every controller with an analog stick had some percentage of analog drift. So finding a couple PS5 or Series controllers with drift, out of the millions, does not indicate an issue.
If there is an issue, it WILL be known beyond any doubt. The Switch (joycons, not the Lite or Pro controller) is the only one with an actual drift problem.
Im glad you acknowledge that as it further proves my point that controllers are getting worse across the board in all categoriesThat's all true. Especially about L3/R3 buttons. Fun fact. Sticks are actually tested to be clicked only in central position. That was especially visible with Valve Index controllers where stick wasn't clickable at all when fully pushed in one direction.
No. Smaller deadzone means better precision of control and better feel of controller. That's why we had some sort of race to bottom with deadzone size.
They actually have bigger problem with drift than standard controllers. Probably combination of adjustable tension (higher wear of potentiometers) and being bought mostly by people playing competitive games (especially shooters).
I had to replace my mouse after 8 years. It stopped being responsive to movement. 8 years ain't bad though.A friend's mouse was drifting recently in games. No kidding.
I hate wireless mice as the batteries always drain fast. I bought a $10 Rayco wired mouse for home use from Tiger Direct about 8 years ago too. Still strong.I had to replace my mouse after 8 years. It stopped being responsive to movement. 8 years ain't bad though.
I'm still not on board with the wireless mouse/headsets. I'm still hardwired too. I'm a logitech guy. I love me the old MX510 or whatever. I now use the G502's. I love them.I hate wireless mice as the batteries always drain fast. I bought a $10 Rayco wired mouse for home use from Tiger Direct about 8 years ago too. Still strong.
I got a super old Logitech wired mouse for work I've had for the same time. I'm still using it.
These beasts will never fail!
I'm still not on board with the wireless mouse/headsets. I'm still hardwired too. I'm a logitech guy. I love me the old MX510 or whatever. I now use the G502's. I love them.
Maybe because you are not supposed to swap storage since it's welded into the main board and you can't take it out?Sony made some strange decisions with the hardware. You can potentially break the console by swapping out the storage.
Not saying this isnt true but i just dont get it....am i just super lucky?
PS5 since december, dead silent, no coil whine ever, no drifting sticks....there legit must be some bad batches out there
There's literally a demonstration by Sony on how to swap storage.Maybe because you are not supposed to swap storage since it's welded into the main board and you can't take it out?
are you this desperate to not care how retarded you appear?Jason barely out the door and Kotaku already spreading FUD.
/s
Holy shit. Hall Effect sticks look so much cheaper and simpler to build. And they seem to be much more durable due to that simplicity. Why do they continue to use that ridiculously overcomplicated mechanism? Just so you can have clicky sticks?well, they could... but they would need to redesign the controller a lot for it to actually work.
here's how to get a way more reliable controller:
•First, replace these shitty sticks with sticks that work with Hall Effect Sensors like in Dreamcast controllers. Doing that could also give them the option to make them replaceable! as the mechanism for detecting movement is completely separate from the actual stick and the springs that keep it centered!
•Secondly, REMOVE L3 AND R3! or to formulate it more precisely, REPOSITION THEM! L3 and R3 should be grip buttons like on most VR controllers. this means less wear on the sticks AND makes possibly replaceable sticks even easier to do!
with these 2 steps, analog sticks would be way less prone to drift AND easy to replace, either by design or not.
I know. I'm set it my ways I guess.there are wireless mice that have the same latency as wired gaming mice, and you can also just use them wired if needed, as the charging port is usually in the front like a normal cable would be.