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The Gundam |OT2| Another 5 years of Gunpla, Origins, and GUNDAMUUUU!

What RE:0096 is being used a test to see if a 0096 Last Sun anime in the same time slot could work?

Think about it, Last Sun is a sequel to Unicorn, it's got cameos from ZZ characters, it's kid friendly, people seem to like the manga and Bandai could use it to sell Z/ZZ MSV kits.
 
progress log:

finished 2nd leg... i'm done for tonight will decal next time =)
6MtoGor.png

QZ1XWrn.png

VbI8UHt.png
 

yami4ct

Member
What RE:0096 is being used a test to see if a 0096 Last Sun anime in the same time slot could work?

Think about it, Last Sun is a sequel to Unicorn, it's got cameos from ZZ characters, it's kid friendly, people seem to like the manga and Bandai could use it to sell Z/ZZ MSV kits.

It's way, way too early to even consider a Last Sun anime. Thing has only 3 volumes. If they did do it, it'd be a short net series like Thunderbolt. Re:0096 is just another way to push Unicorn model sales, capitalize on its still massive popularity and try to make even more cash out of a production that was surely hugely costly. It's the same reason they ran the Yamato 2199 TV series.

If they do another UC animation related to Unicorn, it'll either be Beltorchika's or Hathaway's Flash. Both those are finished, with some already popular suit designs and ready to go.
 

Shun

Member
Is it inside joke that I am inside worker at Bandai Namco and Sunrise? When did duckroll and all you guys start making me that anyway? I shoulda done this with G Reco, you should have seen all the hilarious shit that was going on when G Reco was airing.

G Tekketsu was such standard fare, as enjoyable as it was it could have been better and the way they wrapped shit up is kinda dumb. Here's on to season 2 with a time skip, lolicon char, violent gorillas, and animal forms.

CeiwqKlW4AAhgG6.jpg
CeivjoGWQAA4z-s.jpg
 

yami4ct

Member
Is it inside joke that I am inside worker at Bandai Namco and Sunrise? When did duckroll and all you guys start making me that anyway? I shoulda done this with G Reco, you should have seen all the hilarious shit that was going on when G Reco was airing.

G Tekketsu was such standard fare, as enjoyable as it was it could have been better and the way they wrapped shit up is kinda dumb. Here's on to season 2 with a time skip, lolicon char, violent gorillas, and animal forms.

Inside joke? We're onto you Shun. First you post the animal forms, and Kimaris gets a Centaur form. Then you post the giant Graze gatai and we get the giant Graze Ein.
 
I'm interested in buying my first Gundam model kit (well my second- I had one of Wing Gundam that was based on the Gundam Wing series when that was shown in the UK, so it was more of a toy with brittle plastic parts and lots of stickers and aimed towards children), and I was wondering where do I even start?
I've been checking tips, and apparently it's not just a case of cutting out pieces and fitting them together. The kit I'm looking at, which is a MG Sandrock Custom, apparently comes painted, but tutorials mention having to airbrush different coats to it.
Is that necessary, or can I just piece it together and use a marker for the finer details?

Does anyone have any tips for a beginner? I know I'll be able to put it together, it's just the other bits I'm not 100% sure about.
 
I'm interested in buying my first Gundam model kit (well my second- I had one of Wing Gundam that was based on the Gundam Wing series when that was shown in the UK, so it was more of a toy with brittle plastic parts and lots of stickers and aimed towards children), and I was wondering where do I even start?
I've been checking tips, and apparently it's not just a case of cutting out pieces and fitting them together. The kit I'm looking at, which is a MG Sandrock Custom, apparently comes painted, but tutorials mention having to airbrush different coats to it.
Is that necessary, or can I just piece it together and use a marker for the finer details?

Does anyone have any tips for a beginner? I know I'll be able to put it together, it's just the other bits I'm not 100% sure about.

yeah the old kits from back in the day were trash compared to now, out of the box that is.

It really is up to the person who is making the kit though. You can simply snap the pieces out of their runners and pop them together and get your model, or you can panel line it with markers for added flare, sand it down, prime it, then paint it ect. There is no set way on how to do these, just enjoy it imo.

They come painted/color coded plastic so it looks like it should out of the box, but missing the finer details that you will most likely see on the promo pictures on the box and what not that stuff will take a bit extra work with a marker, or paint skills ect.

My only tips for beginners is grab a kit you think is most interesting and see how satisfied with it you are. The extra stuff like airbrushing is a bit of a commitment that doesn't need to be made for a first time builder.
 
Is it inside joke that I am inside worker at Bandai Namco and Sunrise? When did duckroll and all you guys start making me that anyway? I shoulda done this with G Reco, you should have seen all the hilarious shit that was going on when G Reco was airing.

G Tekketsu was such standard fare, as enjoyable as it was it could have been better and the way they wrapped shit up is kinda dumb. Here's on to season 2 with a time skip, lolicon char, violent gorillas, and animal forms.

CeiwqKlW4AAhgG6.jpg
CeivjoGWQAA4z-s.jpg

since you work for bandai/sunrise, can you tell us what the big announcement is for crossbone gundam? please?

jk
 
Wow David, that's amazing work. How do you get the ink to not leak or smudge when panel lining?

for upper thighs i used a 0.3mm pencil

the knee caps i used 0.3mm pencil on the left knee cap
and grey gundam marker gm02 for the right knee cap just as a test... but both came out almost identical in shade.

and for lower calves all 0.3mm pencil.


most times i use gm20 black brush style marker as i did for de-active justice.
i posted this before:

it is very easy to use to get thin lines without any mess.
just apply and then use q-tip to wipe of excess.

for gp-01fb i wanted to try really skinny hollow panel lines and see how they look and if it's too hollow i can go over them with a heavier marker.

at least for me, using regular gm02 grey gundam marker straight forward is hard to make neat and i found qtip doesn't wipe off any mess very easy. i had the most trouble with the basic black gm01 and grey gm02 markers everyone recommended. i got lot of advice and did my X105 with gm02 grey marker but it took a long time. the best advice i got was to use a tooth pick to go over the edges after panel lining. once i learned how to do that, my panel lines got cleaner with gundam markers especially tiny crevices and corners.
here is a total gm-02 panel line that i posted before:
 

yami4ct

Member
i want that.

It's $130? WHAT THE FUCK. Ugh. I have like 300 dollars in Amazon gift cards. I wish I can use it on that....

Tamashii Webshop Exclusive=Middlemen fees. The base yen price is ~$100. Freedom 2.0 itself is around $40 and the Effect Parts are a stupid $20, so that means Bandai is charging $40 extra for the coating, which seems about their standard for their coating editions.
 

Paltheos

Member
i want that.

It's $130? WHAT THE FUCK. Ugh. I have like 300 dollars in Amazon gift cards. I wish I can use it on that....

Special Coating versions are for suckers. They leave ugly nub marks all over the kit that can only truly be removed by stripping the whole kit (which makes buying the special version pointless to begin with). Some kits are also super easy to leave finger prints on.

Just buy the regular release, the effect parts, and a spray can and go at it. Much cheaper and you get a cleaner result. Unless you don't care about the nubs at all in which case go for it.
 

Watch Da Birdie

I buy cakes for myself on my birthday it's not weird lots of people do it I bet
My parents got me the 1/100 Barbatos for Easter---already built the 1/144 HG one, how different will building this one be?
 

yami4ct

Member
Special Coating versions are for suckers. They leave ugly nub marks all over the kit that can only truly be removed by stripping the whole kit (which makes buying the special version pointless to begin with). Some kits are also super easy to leave finger prints on.

Just buy the regular release, the effect parts, and a spray can and go at it. Much cheaper and you get a cleaner result. Unless you don't care about the nubs at all in which case go for it.

I would recommend avoiding the effect parts as well. I appreciate what Bandai is going for, but they really look silly. They need to be much larger to get the desired effect and I doubt they could've done that without putting them on stands.

They are also stupid expensive even by Webshop standards. $20 for a handful of effects and they don't even throw in an action base? What?
 
It's shooting twizzlers.

At least they look better than the RG ones.


^ That guy is a wizard or got better parts than I did. I have those same effect parts and Freedom's cannons all droop when I put them on. Not to mention the green one is bent.

They are also stupid expensive even by Webshop standards. $20 for a handful of effects and they don't even throw in an action base? What?

To be fair Freedom 2.0 already comes with an action base (edit: stand, my bad), from what I've seen (conjecture based on the below image and the fact the base isn't advertised with the standalone effect parts):


That special coating version comes with an Action Base 1 ala MG Strike Freedom Full Burst
 

Paltheos

Member
I would recommend avoiding the effect parts as well. I appreciate what Bandai is going for, but they really look silly. They need to be much larger to get the desired effect and I doubt they could've done that without putting them on stands.

They are also stupid expensive even by Webshop standards. $20 for a handful of effects and they don't even throw in an action base? What?

To be fair to the package, it also comes with a set of waterslides, so you're not buying just 5 strips of plastic for $20. Although in some ways that makes me more upset.

I actually like how Bandai did the effects, for the most part. Their features look true to the show except the plasma beams. Putting two colors on them and making it look good would have taken some actual work and since this is obviously a cheap cash grab... yeah, no. Ebbing, red beams are a decent substitute though.

Not a real action base. One of the really basic stands.

Oh, cool, it comes with a stand? I wonder how it compares to the Freedom 1.0 stand, which is the basicest of basic stands.
I can see it looks pretty simple, but I'm just novelly curious in how close they are.
 
Oh, cool, it comes with a stand? I wonder how it compares to the Freedom 1.0 stand, which is the basicest of basic stands.
I can see it looks pretty simple, but I'm just novelly curious in how close they are.

It looks like the same kind of stand you get with the MG Wing Zero EW/Proto Zero. So I'd say a step-up from the Freedom 1.0 stand but not quite an Action Base.
 
yeah the old kits from back in the day were trash compared to now, out of the box that is.

It really is up to the person who is making the kit though. You can simply snap the pieces out of their runners and pop them together and get your model, or you can panel line it with markers for added flare, sand it down, prime it, then paint it ect. There is no set way on how to do these, just enjoy it imo.

They come painted/color coded plastic so it looks like it should out of the box, but missing the finer details that you will most likely see on the promo pictures on the box and what not that stuff will take a bit extra work with a marker, or paint skills ect.

My only tips for beginners is grab a kit you think is most interesting and see how satisfied with it you are. The extra stuff like airbrushing is a bit of a commitment that doesn't need to be made for a first time builder.

Sorry for the super late reply, but thanks for that. I'm probably gonna panel line it (I've ordered a grey and brown marker); should I do that once the model is completed, or everytime I build a part, like a limb or the torso?
Finally, will I need a cutting mat?
 
Sorry for the super late reply, but thanks for that. I'm probably gonna panel line it (I've ordered a grey and brown marker); should I do that once the model is completed, or everytime I build a part, like a limb or the torso?
Finally, will I need a cutting mat?

Panel lines are up to you. Some do it while building, some after. Benefits of after are being able to panel line spots you know you want a bit more detail. Before is easier to do without having to take things apart, but maybe not knowing if a spot needs it exactly... or could be skipped. Either or you should be fine. I do most of mine before piecing together completely.

Should not need a cutting mat imo unless your using a hobby knife, or want to use it to measure cuts ect. It's mostly just something to make the model on for a lot of people, other than a table or w/e. Sometimes makes it easier to see smaller parts too haha.
 
Panel lines are up to you. Some do it while building, some after. Benefits of after are being able to panel line spots you know you want a bit more detail. Before is easier to do without having to take things apart, but maybe not knowing if a spot needs it exactly... or could be skipped. Either or you should be fine. I do most of mine before piecing together completely.

Should not need a cutting mat imo unless your using a hobby knife, or want to use it to measure cuts ect. It's mostly just something to make the model on for a lot of people, other than a table or w/e. Sometimes makes it easier to see smaller parts too haha.

Right, thanks.
Also, I apologise for any future super basic questions that I ask lol.
 
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