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The Official Camera Equipment Megathread
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DITTO! I bought a Magic Lantern guide to help guide me around the camera, and hopefully introduce me into the higher end SLR stuff I need to know._leech_ said:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EW8074/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Canon EF-S 17-55MM 2.8 IS USM Lens
Anyone tried this lens out? Right now I have a 50mm 1.4 Prime that I'm loving, but I think it's definitely time to try something a little wider for my second lens. I'm using a crop body (Rebel XSi).
Any impressions/example photos would be great. Thanks!
Canon EF-S 17-55MM 2.8 IS USM Lens
Anyone tried this lens out? Right now I have a 50mm 1.4 Prime that I'm loving, but I think it's definitely time to try something a little wider for my second lens. I'm using a crop body (Rebel XSi).
Any impressions/example photos would be great. Thanks!
Grimlock said:
thanks a bunch for the advice. im a total noob at photography. so any advice helps.
as long as i can start getting pics that arent too soft and fuzzy ill be happy for a bit. hopefully i can get by enough and not get bit by the bug and start wanting to upgrade to a good camera right away... im sure it will happen though. :lol
ive gotten a few decent shots so far. i think this is the best one out of the lot:
i just need some damn sun an warmth so i can go outside and shoot!
Momar said:
I have this lens, and it became my all-around workhorse. For a standard-range zoom, it's unmatched in features. Moderate-wide to short tele, fixed max aperture of f/2.8, and IS, it's a real beast. To top it off, image quality is VERY high.
It's versatility is, as I said, unmatched at such high IQ. I felt it replaced several lenses. I didn't need to get a whole bunch of cheap primes to cover that focal range, and I stopped using my 50mm f/1.8. The lens is that good.
But that said, it's the lens I hate to love. It is extremely prone to dust build up behind the front element (doesn't negatively impact on images if you keep it clean, which you can do if you're handy with a screwdriver, and this can be mitigated with a UV filter). But that was minor compared to the actual build issues I have with it. The rings are not damped, zoom creep can develop, sand/dust can get under the focus ring. To top it off, I feel it uses cheaper components, as I've had the AF and the IS BOTH fail twice each. My copy has been in for repair/service to Canon 6 times, may at my own cost. It infuriated me so much I had to go to a lesser lens for fear of my 17-55 always breaking down.
I'm not saying all 17-55 are as bad as mine - in all likelihood, I got a particular lemon, but you can't blame me for not purchasing another one.
So in my opinion:
Unmatched versatility, ESPECIALLY considering the ultra high IQ. The only optical flaw I can tell is that it flares when pointed into the sun (causing a rapid decrease in contrast).
Build quality does not reach my standards. It's not a poorly constructed lens, but it's not WELL built (and I'm not talking about just the materials - just the design and parts used as well).
I think Nitewulf has this lens as well.
Overall, you might be able to live with the flaws, most do. It really depends on what you want to do. If wide is all you want, maybe you can go for the EF-S10-22.
I've heard good things about the new EF-S 15-85 IS as well. It just doesn't have the wide aperture, but you may have that kind of thing covered by your prime anyway.
Hey Photo GAF, I'm starting to get back into photography and I'm looking for a good entry level DSLR. I am looking to keep the spend under $800 US, and I want somewhere that ships to Australia from the US if possible, since electronics prices here are rape and the aussie dollar is pretty strong at the moment. Amazon is out, they won't ship to Aus. Any suggestions for a good online store that would ship o/seas? Any help is appreciated.
B&h, maybe. Highly reputAble bu pretty much retAil prices. US canon is running some insant rebates at the moment (instant discounts) on certain models too so check them out. Note that you could possibly get raped on import taxes and shipping rates.idahoblue said:
Amazon doesnt ship to Australia?
Also remember, canon stuff sold in US has American warranty only. It's important as you might get some faults or need extra calibration. Outside US, I think lenses havinternational warranntybut I'm not certain.
idahoblue said:
Best entry level camera (and most likely the cheapest) at the moment is without a doubt the Pentax K-x which can be had for around the $699 Aus dollar mark. Only reason i'm chiming in now is because i've only just been doing some reading on it and it's low light performance is quite amazing for this price range, being compared to the most expensive APS-C format cameras. Plus I think it's the only entry cam with shake reduction tech, can be used with any pentax lens ever made (unlike Nikon entry level cams which are crippled. Their mid to high end is great though) and one of the only with HD video? correct me if i'm wrong.
Buying Pentax gear is no issue here, all the major stores like JBHifi, Teds, Officeworks, Digital Camera Warehouse, DickSmith, etc etc will stock it not to mention the many privately owned camera specialists who can probably get you a better deal than the larger chains.
Only real consideration is if you want to buy into the Pentax lens system.
DPReview
"no doubt one of the currently best performing APS-C cameras in low light."
"Pentax has managed to squeeze what is, for this class of camera, an impressive feature set into the camera's minuscule, rather inconspicuous, body and the image quality, especially in low light, is the best we have seen so far in the entry-level bracket of the DSLR market. To put some icing on the cake, all of this comes at a currently, compared to the closest rivals, very attractive price point. To us the lack of visible AF points is the camera's only real drawback but if you can live with this omission you can't go wrong with the Pentax K-x."
Amazon only ships selected items to Australia :| Thanks for help, I'll keep that in mind.mrkgoo said:
Jebus said:
Hmm... I'll have to check out the price differential there. All the ones I have been looking at are about 1000-1400 Aus but about 800-1000US.Jebus said:
That Pentax looks good, but the AA batteries are a killer for me. I could get rechargeables, but it sounds like it churns through them pretty quick.
Thanks heaps for the info though, I reckon local might be the way to go.
idahoblue said:
Yeah i'm not a big fan of the AA batteries either but some people think it's great as spare rechargeable AA's don't cost $90ish.
I'm pretty sure BHPhotoVideo ship to Aus, they'd be your best bet for imported stock. Check out Overclockers Forum (Aus site) and their photography trading section as well (probably can't see it until you've signed up). I've bought and sold many good things on there.
Howdy Camera-GAF. I've been wanting to pick up a DSLR for quite some time, and some of the post-new years deals are pretty tempting. I got a $100 newegg gc for xmas, and decided to take a look at what they offered. The Digital Rebel XS really stands out as being cheap ($430 w/ 18-55 lens), and having a majority of the features I'd want. I'm concerned about the lack of Spot Metering, and was curious if Partial Metering would be close enough? I do tend to like high contrast shots where locking in a specific exposure would be desireable. Are there any major issues that a beginner photography might have with the XS?
For me, it's a choice between the 1000d, the Nikon D3000, and picking up a 2nd hand camera. I'm not apt to pick up the D3000 because of the CCD sensor. I'm also going to pick up a 50mm F1.8 as soon as possible.
For me, it's a choice between the 1000d, the Nikon D3000, and picking up a 2nd hand camera. I'm not apt to pick up the D3000 because of the CCD sensor. I'm also going to pick up a 50mm F1.8 as soon as possible.
Fireye said:
I used to think I needed spot metering too, and it was a feature I used as an excuse to upgrade to a 40D from my 350D. It's handy, but as I pretty much shoot Manual exposure 98% of the time now, I don't feel the need for it as much. I love having it there when I need, but that's very rare.
I know spot metering is still useful for manual exposure, but most of the time, I just look at a scene and figure out what aperture/shutter combo I want based on the evaluative meter needle - the meter is sort of a guide in that respect.
Since getting my a380 I've been snapping lots of random pics. I had it out at New Year as well as a point and click, and despite there not being that much difference in megapixels the difference in pic quality is astounding (yeah, I know mp count isn't that important!).
Quick question on related software... what do incessant snappers organise their pics with? I have lots of folders with randomly (re)sized pics and find them slightly frustrating. I'm on either Vista or Windows 7.
Quick question on related software... what do incessant snappers organise their pics with? I have lots of folders with randomly (re)sized pics and find them slightly frustrating. I'm on either Vista or Windows 7.
BlueTsunami
there is joy in sucking dick
There's also the Sigma 30/1.4 for both Nikon and Canon mount and its supposed to be superb (though one always takes a gamble with Sigma's quality control). But if you get a good one, its supposed to be a notch below Canon's 35/1.4 (a $1200 lens). But from a cost to quality ratio (of the optics), the Canon 50/1.8 is definitely really high up there.
Lightroom is the definitive "workflow" application for photographers. It'll automatically create a coherent folder structure for you based on when the images were taken (embedded in their EXIF). It also streamlines the whole importing -> processing -> output process.
I'm not sure about any other applications that organizes photographs like Lightroom does.
slider said:
Lightroom is the definitive "workflow" application for photographers. It'll automatically create a coherent folder structure for you based on when the images were taken (embedded in their EXIF). It also streamlines the whole importing -> processing -> output process.
I'm not sure about any other applications that organizes photographs like Lightroom does.
Hcoregamer00
The 'H' stands for hentai.
Oh man, the 70-200mm f2.8L II was annouced.
It is EXPENSIVE!!!
It is EXPENSIVE!!!
Rentahamster
Rodent Whores
I don't hear a lot of good things about the D3000. Also, if you get anything below a D90, you'd want to get the 35mm 1.8 instead because that has internal autofocusing. You can't autofocus a 50mm f1.8 on a D3000 or D5000.Fireye said:
BlueTsunami
there is joy in sucking dick
Hcoregamer00 said:
Wow, I just looked it up and his has a shorter Minimum Focus Distance which allows .21x Magnification. One Fluorite element and 5 UD Elements... this thing is going to be a beast.
I've been thinking recently to develop photography as a new hobby. I've never had any interest or particular skill for this... but someday I hope to learn and take it up on a semi-serious level... and choosing my first camera is obviously important.
I keep reading this buzz word for SLR or DSLR when getting cameras... what is the diff, why should I have it to make photos better than just getting a regular digital camera?
I keep reading this buzz word for SLR or DSLR when getting cameras... what is the diff, why should I have it to make photos better than just getting a regular digital camera?
There are two big differences between DSLR and P&S (Point and Shoot) cameras.Medalion said:
1) A DSLR has a larger image sensor than a P&S camera. Below is an image to illustrate that. A large sensor allows larger photosites while retaining a high resolution image. The large the photosite, the more sensitive the sensor is to light, and thus you can shoot more quickly in lower light situations. P&S cameras will have 1/1.6" and smaller sensors.
2) A DSLR offers interchangeable lenses. You'll find that some lenses work better for certain types of photography, say sports, or landscapes, or portraits. With a DSLR, you can spend $500+ on a camera body, and then have as many lenses as you want. With a P&S camera, you're limited to what lens the camera comes with, in effect, you would have to buy multiple P&S cameras to get a wider variation in lenses. Really though, pretty much all P&S cameras have a zoom lens, so you can't get the same variation in lenses as you can with a DSLR.
There are additional features that generally come with a DSLR, such as better exposure control, better autofocusing, bracketing, wide arrays of lens filters, and so much more. Hopefully I didn't totally mangle the explanation
Rentahamster
Rodent Whores
Just wanted to say that I got a nice tripod for my Canon 400D (Rebel Xti) for Christmas, and it's amazing how much sharper the photos get with it! I guess this is self-evident to all of you, but I'm surprised and happy.
Here are a couple of pics to show the difference between just holding the camera as still as I can (using a large zoom) and using the tripod:
I spent weeks last year cataloging all of my NES-games, taking photos of them for insurance-purposes. I'll probably do it all over again now...
Here are a couple of pics to show the difference between just holding the camera as still as I can (using a large zoom) and using the tripod:
I spent weeks last year cataloging all of my NES-games, taking photos of them for insurance-purposes. I'll probably do it all over again now...
BlueTsunami
there is joy in sucking dick
thomaser said:Just wanted to say that I got a nice tripod for my Canon 400D (Rebel Xti) for Christmas, and it's amazing how much sharper the photos get with it! I guess this is self-evident to all of you, but I'm surprised and happy.
Here are a couple of pics to show the difference between just holding the camera as still as I can (using a large zoom) and using the tripod:
I spent weeks last year cataloging all of my NES-games, taking photos of them for insurance-purposes. I'll probably do it all over again now...
As the saying goes "The sharpest lens in my gear is the tripod!"
If you want even better absolute sharpness, try messing with the Mirror Lockup and Timer function (should be in the custom functions). You then set it on timer.
When you press the shutter, the mirror will slap up (but not take the picture). A timer will blink for two seconds and take the picture (thus reducing any movement from pressing the shutter).
Rentahamster
Rodent Whores
Or you could use a flash. It would save time.thomaser said:
protip: bounce it on the ceiling.
Instigator
Banned
thomaser said:Just wanted to say that I got a nice tripod for my Canon 400D (Rebel Xti) for Christmas, and it's amazing how much sharper the photos get with it! I guess this is self-evident to all of you, but I'm surprised and happy.
Here are a couple of pics to show the difference between just holding the camera as still as I can (using a large zoom) and using the tripod:
I spent weeks last year cataloging all of my NES-games, taking photos of them for insurance-purposes. I'll probably do it all over again now...
There's no... IS on that thing?
Rentahamster
Rodent Whores
IS only goes so far...Instigator said:
Those shots were probably taken with a long zoom and slow shutter speed.
Rentahamster said:
for photographing boxes/paper, a tripod will save way more time. Set it up pointing down at a table, couple of desk lamps at 45 degree angles for even lighting and you can shoot through a bunch of stuff really quickly.
Use manual exposure and focus (if everything is the same height) and custom white balance to account for the desk lamps, and you have a nice copystand
If you have a ton of stuff to do, consider a cheap cable release or IR if your camera can use one - save you touching the camera between shots
Rentahamster
Rodent Whores
I was suggesting using flash in order not to have a long shutter speed or deal with the timer.mrklaw said:
Wow, this thing is a beast.
http://news.cnet.com/8301-17938_105-10425289-1.html
I was going to get the older one a long time ago, but just don't have the space for it in my bag. I generally only do event or portrait/full body photography, and my primes along with my 24-70 2.8L generally do the trick. Though I do hear a lot of photog's use the 70-200's.
http://news.cnet.com/8301-17938_105-10425289-1.html
I was going to get the older one a long time ago, but just don't have the space for it in my bag. I generally only do event or portrait/full body photography, and my primes along with my 24-70 2.8L generally do the trick. Though I do hear a lot of photog's use the 70-200's.
Forsete
Member
slider said:
PMB is a pretty good organizer, and great when printing images. Sony software is pretty stable these days.
Not sure what the RAW situation is with 380, but for A700/900 Sonys RAW developer IDC (Image Data Converter) is not recommended. DXO http://www.dxo.com/uk/photo does a fantastic job with the 900, but I am not sure of 380 is supported.
Otherwise Lightroom 3 Beta seems to do a good job as a RAW converter, older versions of Adobe Camera Raw could really mess up RAW-files though.
Edit: Just checked, DXO supports 380 on the Pro Standard edition.
Awesome, thanks Forsete. The a380 came with IDC ver3 but I haven't meddled with it yet. I guess pretty soon I'll start posting pics...
The reason I commented on the buggy-ness of Sony stuff was the troubles I've had with various MP3 players (althought the current one, like PMB, is trouble free).
The reason I commented on the buggy-ness of Sony stuff was the troubles I've had with various MP3 players (althought the current one, like PMB, is trouble free).
Dear PhotoGAF,
I am currently using a Panasonic Lumix TZ3, which got kinda oldsy. Would the Powershot S90 be a good cam to replace it? Low light performance is primary concern, a small form factor comes directly after it.
And also a big "GET A TRIPOD!" recommendation to everyone, even a small tabletop one is great for making good pics without flash.
I am currently using a Panasonic Lumix TZ3, which got kinda oldsy. Would the Powershot S90 be a good cam to replace it? Low light performance is primary concern, a small form factor comes directly after it.
And also a big "GET A TRIPOD!" recommendation to everyone, even a small tabletop one is great for making good pics without flash.
S90 is getting excellent impressions around low light capability
it's just a shame compacts are specialising. I bought a panasonic TZ7 because of the video quality (still a good stills cam too). Nothing out there stands out as excellent in all areas
I'm tempted by the panasonic gf1 because it's a DSLR the size of a big compact so low light should be in another league.
it's just a shame compacts are specialising. I bought a panasonic TZ7 because of the video quality (still a good stills cam too). Nothing out there stands out as excellent in all areas
I'm tempted by the panasonic gf1 because it's a DSLR the size of a big compact so low light should be in another league.
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