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The Official Camera Equipment Megathread

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Futureman

Member
Kadey said:
Can you guys recommend a camera that would capture good quality videos in dark environments?

How much do you want to spend?

You could get the new Canon t2i and a fast prime lens for around $1K.
 
mrkgoo said:
It's actually pretty difficult to grow out of even an entry-level dSLR. The camera is a tool. Modern entry level dSLRs are choc-full of all the features you'd need. In fact, even more so than the 350D (Rebel XT) that I started with. Ask BlueTsunami, perhaps the most well versed in enthusiast camera gear, and he's still running the 350D.

For most people, there's very little a modern entry-level camera can't do that the higher ends can. For the most part, the cameras are better than the photographers that use them, and many of us upgrade not really needing the higher features.

The best thing about photography is that there is ALWAYS new techniques to learn, regardless of your skill level, and always areas to expand and improve. The gear is actually the least of that space.

As for used - cameras are rated for a certain shutter count. That doesn't mean they will explode after reaching that shutter count, but just that the manufacturer's build to a certain specification - entry levels are closer to 50,000, maybe 100,000 actuations.

For comparison, I have been through two point and shoots, 3 SLRS, and I on;y have around 35,000 images in my photo library :lol (although I have deleted probably as much as 50% of that).

Does the amount of megapixels really matter that much, or is it more of a number to allure mass market consumers? I see that the 350D that you have is 8MP, whereas some of the newer entry level cameras seem to be around 10-12MP.
 

Chorazin

Member
JLateralus said:
I have a couple questions for a beginner.

I got some good suggestions from mrkgoo in the photography thread, but he suggested I ask here for other recommendations.

I'm looking to spend $500 or less on an entry level DSLR to upgrade from my Sony point and shoot. Are there any recommendations on brands for a beginner?

I realize that with the more "beginner-like" camera I get, the faster I will outgrow it, but that's fine with me for the time being. I have a baby on the way (which is kind of what is prompting this in the first place) so I'm on a bit of a budget. I don't even mind buying an older model that would still take nicer pictures than my Sony and allow me to learn the basics.

Should I be opposed to a used camera in good shape? If buying used, are there any red flags to look out for? Are there any places to get a good deal?

Thanks for your help!

I know Mrkgoo gave you a lot of Canon options in the Q1 thread, but I gotta recommend a used Nikon D40 if you're looking to go as cheap as possible while still getting a grea tcamera. It's got great image quality of a DSLR of it's age, plenty of up-front options to keep the beginner satisfied, and deeper options buried in menus for the serious shooter. It's the camera I learned on, and I still love it even though I've upgraded recently.

It's very light, which means you'll be more inclined to take it with you more, dead simple to figure out, and fun as hell to shoot. It's only got 6.2 megapixels, but with DSLR's it's all about the IQ (image quality) and ISO (measure of how well it performs in low-light). The D40 isn't a super-champ in low-light, but it's good enough for what you'll mainly use it for, I think.

It uses the same motorless system that all of Nikon's entry level cameras use, so you'll only be able to auto-focus with newer, cheaper (for the ones you'll want at the beginning) lenses branded with the AF-S indicator, but there is nothing wrong with that. In fact, the 35MM 1.8 AF-S lens is regarded very highly by shooter of all skill levels.

The absolute best part? It usually sells around $300, in top condition, with the kit 18-55mm II lens. In fact, killertofu posted earlier he was interested in selling his, maybe you can hit him up and get a good deal!

PROTIP: Use the money you save buying this camera to invest in the 55-200mm AF-S lens, it's around $200 new and an excellent second lens to capture things you just can't get close to.
 
prettyvacant77 said:
I'm in the same position except i've got the 500D.

I've just ordered a 17-85 IS USM, well, won it for <£200 on Ebay :D

Should be here in the next couple of days, will let you know how I get on with it...

Have read mixed reviews but for that price, I wasn't too fussed :lol

Just got my hands on that lens today: a co-worker has it. I only took two pics, and looked at it for a couple of minutes but here my impressions:

nice design. It looks and feels solid. USM AF is fast and dead silent. Impressive. But best of all: the focus ring: it's not moving when shooting in AF. Only the inner ring moves in AF and the external ring stays still. You can still move it (all time Manual Focus) if you want but that's juste awesome.

And the down side: it only opens at f/4 and in the office, it wasn't sufficent enough...

I place an order on it anyway. 449.95$ on Amazon.com... That's 340 euros: twice less than in my retail store ! I really can't affoard the 15-85 IS USM. It's f/3.5 and everything, but it's 200 euros more expensive and I just can't put 550 euros on a lens right now.
 

mrkgoo

Member
JLateralus said:
Does the amount of megapixels really matter that much, or is it more of a number to allure mass market consumers? I see that the 350D that you have is 8MP, whereas some of the newer entry level cameras seem to be around 10-12MP.

A bit of column A, a bit of column B.

going from 8MP to 10-12 is pretty insignificant.

Example: my 350D, 8MP = 3456x2304; my 40D = 3888x2592.

As you go up in resolution, while keeping the sensor the same size,e you are reducing the size of the pixel, this decreasing each pixels light capturing/measuring ability. This tends to result in a loss of signal-to-noise ratio = noise.

That said, the newer cameras have more advanced CPUs capable of pretty effective noise reduction algorithms to combat this. My latest camera, the 7D is actually 18MP and that is a substantial increase from 8-10, and I find I have more detail and more room to work with cropping, at very little expense in noise.

Overall, I generally wouldn't consider anything over about 8MP to be a real issue, unless you did a LOT of cropping, or printing at sizes larger than a poster. I compared a print of a 5MP point and shoot vs an 8MP dSLR, and depending on the image, an 8x12" print was indistinguishable at a proper viewing distance.

Following on from Chorazin - don't be afraid to try other brands. As I've mentioned, I only know Canon so that's all I can advise from a personal experience. All the brands make fine cameras and you generally cant go wrong with any. I would say the advantage of the bigger name brands (Canon, Nikon, Sony, and to a lesser extent Pentax, Panasonic etc) is that they will generally be around a long time and support their stuff, plus a lot of accessories available. You'll find it easy to find opinions on the bigger name stuff as more people have them. Nothing wrong with going a to a lesser brand, but you will be relegated somewhat in choice, especially regarding shopping.

Another important part of brand choice is the actual ergonomics. For example, in Canon SLRs a control dial is place next to the shutter button, on top of the camera (vertical). On Nikon, it's in the front (horizontal). Fundamentally, this will be more or less comfortable depending on your preference, and is just as valid a concern as anything technical.
 

mrkgoo

Member
UnluckyKate said:
Just got my hands on that lens today: a co-worker has it. I only took two pics, and looked at it for a couple of minutes but here my impressions:

nice design. It looks and feels solid. USM AF is fast and dead silent. Impressive. But best of all: the focus ring: it's not moving when shooting in AF. Only the inner ring moves in AF and the external ring stays still. You can still move it (all time Manual Focus) if you want but that's juste awesome.

And the down side: it only opens at f/4 and in the office, it wasn't sufficent enough...

I place an order on it anyway. 449.95$ on Amazon.com... That's 340 euros: twice less than in my retail store ! I really can't affoard the 15-85 IS USM. It's f/3.5 and everything, but it's 200 euros more expensive and I just can't put 550 euros on a lens right now.

That is pretty much USM focus. If you like it...you should check out some 'L' lenses, and check out the 'feel' of the focus rings on those puppies. Properly damped and smoooooooth.
 
mrkgoo said:
That is pretty much USM focus. If you like it...you should check out some 'L' lenses, and check out the 'feel' of the focus rings on those puppies. Properly damped and smoooooooth.

I have a 70-300 USM, and the AF motor is fast and silent. Compared to my two EF lens, it's day and night.

But even the USM on that 17-85 compared to the USM on my 70-300, it's day and... SPACE SILENT :lol

L lenses ? I doubt I can affoard that... For now :D
 

Rentahamster

Rodent Whores
Kadey said:
Can you guys recommend a camera that would capture good quality videos in dark environments?
Is this to take video at Street Fighter events? There are a lot of options but it really comes down to what your budget is. You can get some high quality stuff, but it won't be cheap.
 

mrkgoo

Member
UnluckyKate said:
I have a 70-300 USM, and the AF motor is fast and silent. Compared to my two EF lens, it's day and night.

But even the USM on that 17-85 compared to the USM on my 70-300, it's day and... SPACE SILENT :lol

L lenses ? I doubt I can affoard that... For now :D

As far as I remember, the 70-300 uses a "Micro-USM", which is a small ultrasonic motor, and is not the same as a true "Ring-USM", that the big boys have. Micro-USM cannot full-time manually focus (except for the Ef-50mm f/1.4), and is slightly noisier.

All the more expensive lenses use ring-USM (well, not to say that the 70-300 is cheap...).

Canon said:
Ultrasonic Motors (USM)

The Ultrasonic Motor (USM) in Canon EF lenses is the world's first lens-based ultrasonic motor. Based on a totally new technology, the motor spins by ultrasonic oscillation energy. The USM is quiet and quick. It has made EF lenses almost noiseless and autofocusing fast, precise and practical. The direct-drive construction is very simple, with no gear train. This makes it durable and efficient. It also consumes little power. Two types of USM are used: Ring-type USM and Micro USM. The former type is found in large-aperture and super telephoto lenses, while the latter is used in more compact lenses. Using the optimum type of USM in the lens results in maximum efficiency and effectiveness.

IMG_RING-USM.jpg


IMG_MICRO-USM.jpg
 
UnluckyKate said:
I have a 70-300 USM, and the AF motor is fast and silent. Compared to my two EF lens, it's day and night.

But even the USM on that 17-85 compared to the USM on my 70-300, it's day and... SPACE SILENT :lol

L lenses ? I doubt I can affoard that... For now :D
If just got in from work, 17-85 USM sat waiting for me :)

First quick impressions, USM is fantastic, build quality is miles better than the 18-55 kit lens. Can see some obvious barrel distortion at 17mm, not as huge an issue as some reviews made it out to be.

Really impressed with the usm motor and the speed of the focusing, it focuses quicker than I can :lol

Happy with it so far, will spare you all test pics of my flat, am gonna try it out this weekend hopefully, pics to follow...
 

Kadey

Mrs. Harvey
Rentahamster said:
Is this to take video at Street Fighter events? There are a lot of options but it really comes down to what your budget is. You can get some high quality stuff, but it won't be cheap.

Something to record dark environments remotely good in the couple hundred dollars range. I'm not a photographer so I do not need something overkill.

The current point and shoot I have, whenever I try and take videos, it comes out way too dark.
 

luoapp

Member
Kadey said:
Something to record dark environments remotely good in the couple hundred dollars range. I'm not a photographer so I do not need something overkill.

The current point and shoot I have, whenever I try and take videos, it comes out way too dark.
I am afraid a couple hundred won't buy you anything decent for dark environment. If your only problem is "too dark", usually you can find some setting on your camera to jack up the ISO, but the video will be more noisy.
 

Rentahamster

Rodent Whores
Kadey said:
Something to record dark environments remotely good in the couple hundred dollars range. I'm not a photographer so I do not need something overkill.

The current point and shoot I have, whenever I try and take videos, it comes out way too dark.
If you're looking for a good point and shoot camera that takes good video in the dark, then I would probably suggest one of the new Cybershots from Sony with the new Exmor sensor. There was a lot of hubbub regarding the new sensor (http://photorumors.com/2009/08/06/sony-exmor-r-sensor-now-in-digital-cameras/) and since its release, the reviews have been pretty favorable.

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/08/20/technology/personaltech/20pogue.html?_r=1

Video: http://video.nytimes.com/video/2009...64120176/sony-and-fuji-conquer-low-light.html

Photo gallery: http://www.nytimes.com/slideshow/2009/08/20/technology/personaltech/20090820-pogue-slideshow_4.html

Sony says that in its new Exmor R sensor, the circuitry layer has been moved to the bottom, so that less light is lost en route through the stack.

Does any of this make any difference?

It sure does. I spent three successive evenings shooting the same twilight and nighttime scenes with the Sony, the Fuji and my own Canon PowerShot SD880, a terrific 2008 camera with no special low-light features.

It’s truly amazing; there hasn’t been an advance in small cameras this important since image stabilization came along.

In most cases, the Sony did even better than the Fuji. Some of its shots — like those taken with only a single candle as illumination — were nothing short of miraculous.

http://links.dpnotes.com/sonywx1.php


Both models with the new sensor will run you a little over $300.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002IPHIDW/?tag=neogaf0e-20

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002IPHIFA/?tag=neogaf0e-20

I don't have one personally, but it's probably the one I'd get if I was in your situation.

Edit: I'd actually probably get the newer models since they can take SD cards, but those models are over your budget.

You can find a lot of sample video and video reviews if you search Youtube:

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=DSC-WX1&search_type=&aq=f

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=DSC-TX1&search_type=&aq=f

It's still a tiny point and shoot, though. Despite the hype, don't expect professional looking shots in a venue with no little to no light.

In that kind of setting, you really have to find areas that have light - whether it be a nearby strobe, lamp, window, bar, whatever.

EDIT: There are newer versions of this camera available (like the TX5) and more coming out this month, but I listed the older models since those are the cheapest.
 

Kadey

Mrs. Harvey
Great post Hamster. So what do you think would be better between those two? From what I've read, so far it seems the WX-1.
 
Can someone explain the numbers on the different lenses to me... or direct me to somewhere reliable to read more?

I'm watching a couple of auctions... one of them includes the lens kit along with a EF 75-300 lens... not quite sure that is.
 

SnakeXs

about the same metal capacity as a cucumber
JLateralus said:
Can someone explain the numbers on the different lenses to me... or direct me to somewhere reliable to read more?

I'm watching a couple of auctions... one of them includes the lens kit along with a EF 75-300 lens... not quite sure that is.

Numbers with mm is the focal length. The smaller the number, the wider it is. 75-300mm is a telephoto (long, far reaching) zoom lens.

Numbers with f/ on them is the aperture, or speed. Smaller number = faster lens, or better at gathering light.
 

Rentahamster

Rodent Whores
Kadey said:
Great post Hamster. So what do you think would be better between those two? From what I've read, so far it seems the WX-1.
Well, the TX-1 is smaller so if you're going clubbing or something smaller cameras are more convenient. The WX-1 isn't that much larger, though. It's still a compact.

I'm assuming this camera is the same as other cameras in the sense that you do sacrifice some quality for the smaller size. Also, the smaller cameras tend to be more expensive.

If I had to choose between the two, I'd probably go with the WX-1 since it's still small, and most importantly has a larger lens which is probably more sensitive to light. It is also wider than the TX-1, so you can get more things in frame before having to step back. Plus I hate touchscreens on cameras.

I find that for compact point and shoot cameras, I usually find myself in situations where I'd like a wider angle rather than more zoom.

But anyway, FYI, here are the newest models that were just released.

TX-7: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00328HR7Q/?tag=neogaf0e-20

HX5V: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00328HR76/?tag=neogaf0e-20

According to some reviews (like this one: http://www.redban.com/blogy/2010/01/22/sony-cyber-shot-dsc-tx7-review/), the TX-7 is better than the previous models. That's usually the case, but not always. I dunno since I don't own either camera. Just gotta read reviews and owner impressions to see if the newer models justify the higher cost.

EDIT: Sample video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T3NL2rbRRzc&feature=related

The HX5V just dropped this month, I believe, and it's only about 20 bucks more than the almost half year old WX-1 according to Amazon's pricing. (And you do want to buy it from Amazon itself and not the third parties, since you can get free shipping and better customer service).

The HX5V is seems like it would have the best image quality of all of these cameras, since it doesn't have the limitation of being an ulta compact, and it also has a decent sized lens. It also has some interesting features like the HDR mode (I've always wanted a camera with this kind of feature), but not having used it personally, I can't really say if it's a hit or miss.

You can see how it looks when held in human hands here: http://www.photographybay.com/2010/01/13/sony-hx5v-hands-on-review/

759966726_t5BDy-M.jpg


Looking at all the cameras, even the newer ones, I think I'd probably get the HX5V since it's only $350, 50 bucks more than the half year old TX-1. It's not that much bigger and probably has better image quality due to the slightly larger body and newer technology. For some people 50 bucks is a lot, and for some it isn't. In my case, it probably would justify an extra 50 bucks since I can afford it. Plus I hate touchscreen only interfaces. Give me buttons!

The ultra-compactness of the TX-1 or the TX-7 might be more important to you, though, since it's hard for girls to carry anything around, especially at the club.

(Incidentally enough, I just realized you are a girl. I had always thought you were a gay guy, sorry :lol I don't know any girls who play videogames, let alone Street Fighter, let alone play it well and put combo videos online.)

I'd recommend going to Best Buy or someplace and trying out the cameras in person before buying them for cheaper online.

As far as "overkill" is concerned, that would probably be buying the new canon T2i for 800 bucks, but then you'd be able to take great videos like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPYQhiKApKY&feature=related

Or you could go really overkill and get a $3000 5D MarkII for videos like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b7sK...542A576B&playnext=1&playnext_from=PL&index=14

Seriously, though, whatever you do get, take lotsa pics at the Street Fighter events for GAF to enjoy!
 

mrkgoo

Member
JLateralus said:
Can someone explain the numbers on the different lenses to me... or direct me to somewhere reliable to read more?

I'm watching a couple of auctions... one of them includes the lens kit along with a EF 75-300 lens... not quite sure that is.

The lens in question is probably the EF 75-300mm f/4.0-5.6 USM (?)


EF= "Electronic Focus" - just the brand name for Canon's mount for their EOS (electronic optical system) brand of SLRS, which is their modern range.

75-300 = the focal range. The focal range is what the layman interprets as 'zoom', except the terms actually mean different things. This lens zooms from 75mm-300mm focal length (to know exactly what that means you have to look up optics). It relates to what you see on the image. The shorter the focal length the 'wider' the angle, and the greater field of view you can see. The longer teh FL, the less of field you can see, but you get a 'zoomed in magnified view'.

50mm on a film camera (35mm long edge) is often considered 'normal' field of view, and anything significantly less as wide angle. Anything significantly longer is telephoto.

SO this lens is a zooming telephoto lens. For a smaller sensor (which most entry level digital cameras are), you can imageine this narrow field of view is further narrowed. This lens on one of those cameras has field of view more equivalent to about 120-480mm on a film camera. This range is most suited for things like medium to moderately long shooting, such as portraits or animals at the zoo, or even in the wild.

f/4.0-5.6 = aperture value. This is the most technical value. This value relates to the a set of aperture blades that close when you take the picture. The number refers to how wide the aperture can actually open at its maximum. It's a reciprocal relationship with the focal length, hence the "f/x'. f/4 means focal length divided by 4. For example, a 100mm f/4 lens means the lens aperture can open up to 100/4 = 25mm. This lens has two values (f/4-f/5.6), because they represent the different ends of the zoom range (4 for the 75mm end, and 5.6 for the 300mm end - and a gradient in between). In short, the smaller the number, the wider the aperture can open (you can actually set it to be narrower on the camera).

The aperture has two effects. 1) it controls the amount of light that comes in, thus affecting how good a picture you can take in low light (lower number, = wider, remember, so it means you can let in more light with a lower number). 2) It affects how blurry you can get a background while keeping the subject in focus for those characteristic "SLR-like" photos. This is called "depth of field".

IS = stands for image stabilization. Actually, I'm not sure if this lens has it. I don't think it does. What this is a series of gyroscopes and/or accelerometers attached to a special lens element that compensates for handshake while holding.

USM Ultrasonic motor. In the 80's Canon developed a way of using high frequency vibrations to move a lens element, and lenses that use this technology carry this monicker. Note, that there are actually two types (see my post a few posts above). One is true RING USM, which has no drive train, the other is a sort of 'fake' USM (Micro-USM) that still uses a motor, but based on similar technology.

edit: As squirrel Killer said the 75-300 are not well renowned. There have been three versions of this, and I think they are all considered pretty poor. The70-300 IS, on the other hand....
 

Jebus

Member
mrkgoo said:
EF= "Electronic Focus" - just the brand name for Canon's mount for their EOS (electronic optical system) brand of SLRS, which is their modern range.

On top of that I always thought 'EF' was their range of lenses for both crop and full sized sensor cameras, where as EF-S was built for Crop sensor cameras specifically. I'm quite new to Canon gear as I've come across from Pentax so I could be wrong.
 

Rentahamster

Rodent Whores
Kadey said:
Thanks. I already bit the bullet after watching these videos. Took the WX-1.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7HhwgdGZUf0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OuxvV93FTvk&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNkbVgfQZ4E&feature=related

I am very impressed considering everything I want and need.
Wow, that was fast.

Yeah, I was looking at those same videos too. Very good quality in low light.

Looking at the new HX5V, though, it seems like it would have even better quality for only $20 more and a lightly larger footprint. It's almost half a year newer. Seeing as how the video quality improved from the TX1 to the TX7, I would think the newer HX5V would have a similar jump in quality from the WX-1. Also, it takes SD cards which are a lot cheaper than Sony's proprietary memory sticks.
 

mrkgoo

Member
Rentahamster said:
Holy crap! Hahaha, mine was like 40,000 yen or something which was less than US$400 back then.

<3 technology.

Mine was a parallel import from overseas too -the NZ retails was probably closer to like NZ$1500 or something.

I loved that camera too. Moved up from the very first cassia Exilim S-1, which blew me away with its thin-ness. In the T1, I got a better screen, optical zoom, 5MP, better video etc. Oh, and an amazing super-macro mode.
 

Forsete

Member
New preview of the compact APS-C cameras from Sony, this video demonstrates some of the GUI.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WkXU_I4Uyk0

Found this on Dyxum
* Touch Screen
* SuperSteadyShoot (if in-body or in lens remains to be seen)
* Precision Battery Meter in % (I love that!)
* Help Functions
* Shooting Tips
* Built-in Flash
* P, A (and most probably S and M too), Scene, 16:9, and more.
* LiveView with Preview
* Smile Detection :)
* Full HD video 1920 x 1080 AVCHD (I'll expect Sonys video will outclass the crappy video functions so far implemented in the DSLR cameras from Canon, Nikon etc.)
* RAW + JPEG (as already have been pointed out - probably cRAW for the cheaper models).
* There is also a "Background Defocus" button.
* It will do at least 1/1000 seconds and probably at least one 1:2,8 lens for this new mount.

Not bad. Rumours are saying a more advanced model is in the works also (to be shown at Photokina in September).
 

Jtones

Banned
mrkgoo said:
Learn what it means to correctly expose and image, and how the three main factors - shutter speed, aperture, and iso - contribute to that exposure.

Then understand how each of these impact the image aside from exposure.

Keep in mind composition.


In terms of modes and stuff, those don't matter, because unless you understand the above, you won't know when and why you use each mode.

Fully automatic = camera chooses all settings
P-mode: User mode, but camera chooses exposure settings (typically shutter speed and aperture)
Av-mode (aperture priority): You choose aperture, camera chooses shutterspeed.
Tv (or S)-mode (shutter priority): You choose shutterspeed, camera chooses aperture.
M-mode (manual): you choose everything.

Again, to understand the modes and what they do, you need to understand exposure and how a camera 'sees' things.

Conclusions:

1) Learn exposure.
2) Learn the three main components of exposure and how they contribute to it (A,S,I)
3) Learn what effect the components have on the image aside from exposure, so you can understand why you would change one thing over another.

1b) Keep in mind composition - this comes with looking at your own images and looking at others, identifying what you like, and what you don't.

In regards to modes: the modes mean nothing without understanding of the above. When you reach stage 2), then you can start playing with the modes. If you understand 2), you will know which mode to use.

I found diving in at Manual or aperture/shutter priority to be the most rapid way of understanding the components, as you will make many more mistakes, but just as quickly learn how to correct them.

Thanks for the info, haven't been able to take pictures since I posted. Now on to my first assignment: learn exposure! :)
 

mrkgoo

Member
Jtones said:
Thanks for the info, haven't been able to take pictures since I posted. Now on to my first assignment: learn exposure! :)

I was actually thinking of starting a sort of community "Beginners' photography" thread, with exercises, lessons and general learning and tips, but wasn't sure how useful it would be (and it would be an awful amount of work).

The key point in 'learning exposure' is to take lots of images and learn that you can 'over expose' (too bright) an image, 'under expose it' (too dark), or get it just right.

What is 'just right'? Well that's up to the photographer and the effect that they are trying to achieve - but you can always tell when you have got it wrong. You learn that by doing, and critically looking back.
 

Jtones

Banned
mrkgoo said:
I was actually thinking of starting a sort of community "Beginners' photography" thread, with exercises, lessons and general learning and tips, but wasn't sure how useful it would be (and it would be an awful amount of work).

The key point in 'learning exposure' is to take lots of images and learn that you can 'over expose' (too bright) an image, 'under expose it' (too dark), or get it just right.

What is 'just right'? Well that's up to the photographer and the effect that they are trying to achieve - but you can always tell when you have got it wrong. You learn that by doing, and critically looking back.

It would be very useful. But if you're willing to make such a thread is up to you. :D
 

Rentahamster

Rodent Whores
mrkgoo said:
I was actually thinking of starting a sort of community "Beginners' photography" thread, with exercises, lessons and general learning and tips, but wasn't sure how useful it would be (and it would be an awful amount of work).

The key point in 'learning exposure' is to take lots of images and learn that you can 'over expose' (too bright) an image, 'under expose it' (too dark), or get it just right.

What is 'just right'? Well that's up to the photographer and the effect that they are trying to achieve - but you can always tell when you have got it wrong. You learn that by doing, and critically looking back.
I would always link this thread for people who asked.

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=370635
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
the 'super compacts' / micro DSLR area is really starting to get interesting. Definitely something I'll get into maybe by the end of the year. It helps that my perfect compact DSLR would be a combination of the GF1 and EP1, so there isn't anything just right out on the market yet.
 
Jtones said:
It would be very useful. But if you're willing to make such a thread is up to you. :D

Agreed. The advice you've given out so far has been great. I just bought a used Canon 350D based on your thoughts. Can't wait for it to get here! :D
 

Foob

Member
Hey guys I just got a nikon d5000, and I'm looking for some sites with good beginners advice..

Also, is it possible to create hdr images in lightroom?
 

Foob

Member
Rentahamster said:


thanks! reading this thread on my computer, I see that you actually inked that like two posts above mine...ooops.. I was browsing on my iphone earlier, so i'd like to think that's a valid excuse.

anyway, do you guys critique in here? i took a few pictures today/last night, and would be curious to get your guys' opinions.
 

mrkgoo

Member
Foob said:
thanks! reading this thread on my computer, I see that you actually inked that like two posts above mine...ooops.. I was browsing on my iphone earlier, so i'd like to think that's a valid excuse.

anyway, do you guys critique in here? i took a few pictures today/last night, and would be curious to get your guys' opinions.

There are, at any one time, three/four concurrent photography threads on GAF.

One is this thread, the all-encompassing equipment thread, normally for asking about equipment, wants, needs, gots, or just geeking out at news.

Second up is the quarterly threads for posting images. Criticism and critiques are always encouraged, as that is the best single way to improve ones photography, either by giving it or receiving it. It refreshes every quarter, for reasons unknown (although I suppose it's for keeping thread size down). http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=383715

Third is a DSLR beginner's thread. I don't actually know too much about this one, but Rentahamster (Photogafry extraordinaire) recommends it to many as a place to start. http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=370635

And lastly, there's the quasi-fortnightly assignment threads, aimed to give beginners and experts alike a focus and reason for shooting. http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=389250

At a quick glance, I'd suggest just start posting your images in the quarterly thread.
 
Forsete said:
New preview of the compact APS-C cameras from Sony, this video demonstrates some of the GUI.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WkXU_I4Uyk0

Found this on Dyxum


Not bad. Rumours are saying a more advanced model is in the works also (to be shown at Photokina in September).

My e-pl1 has all that minus the touchscreen and the 1080p video (although it does have 720p with autofocus). I'm loving the competition in whatever you want to call this compact, mirrorless, interchangeable lens area, but it seems like Sony is playing catch up to Olympus and Panasonic.
 

mrkgoo

Member
reggieandTFE said:
My e-pl1 has all that minus the touchscreen and the 1080p video (although it does have 720p with autofocus). I'm loving the competition in whatever you want to call this compact, mirrorless, interchangeable lens area, but it seems like Sony is playing catch up to Olympus and Panasonic.

Is the micro 4.3 APS-C sized sensor, though?

I've always been impressed with Sony's Camera range. I can't wait to see what they do with this upcoming space.
 

Zyzyxxz

Member
reggieandTFE said:
My e-pl1 has all that minus the touchscreen and the 1080p video (although it does have 720p with autofocus). I'm loving the competition in whatever you want to call this compact, mirrorless, interchangeable lens area, but it seems like Sony is playing catch up to Olympus and Panasonic.

the thing is video recording is something Sony has been in for quite some time and the fact that it will use a APS-C sensor makes it truly more like a DSLR without adding too much to the size.
 

captive

Joe Six-Pack: posting for the common man
mrkgoo said:
Is the micro 4.3 APS-C sized sensor, though?
its the same size sensor in 4/3rds DSLRs so 2x crop factor.

the thing is video recording is something Sony has been in for quite some time and the fact that it will use a APS-C sensor makes it truly more like a DSLR without adding too much to the size.
um so 4/3rds arent DSLRs? Good to know.

Honestly I see more of an advantage of using a smaller sensor for video because you get more depth of field at wider apertures. thus needing less lighting equipment.
But thats just me and I dont care about video.
 
reggieandTFE said:
My e-pl1 has all that minus the touchscreen and the 1080p video (although it does have 720p with autofocus). I'm loving the competition in whatever you want to call this compact, mirrorless, interchangeable lens area, but it seems like Sony is playing catch up to Olympus and Panasonic.

To be fair, the technology has been there for years. Nothing stopped other manufacturers from doing it before.

They even had a taste of things to come when Panasonic had its G1 in 2008 and Olympus had a mock-up of the E-P1(a year before it was actually released) around the same time. Other manufacturers like Sony could have responded by 2009.

It looks like companies like Sony waited to see if their competitors were going to be succesful with it, which is strange since you expect such a company like Sony to do market research and to have identified such a need among consumers.

But yeah, they're playing catch up. :)
 
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