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The Official E-Cigarette Thread Of F#ck Analog Cigarettes
- Thread starter daw840
- Start date
DietRob
i've been begging for over 5 years.
Mine just arrived today (first kit). A lot heavier than I expected, in a good way that makes it feel solid.
Unfortunately the battery and juice doesn't arrive until Monday.
Wait.. so the battery comes separately? Ugh.. I guess was in too big of a rush and just placed an order without really paying attention.
https://www.fasttech.com/product/2385500
That's the one I ordered. And yep... battery not included. What type of battery do I need to go out and buy now?
edit: Looks like it takes 18650. They are around 10 bucks on amazon. Can someone give me advice on what volts and mAh I should be looking for this is all very new to me.
$56.97 at the link I just posted above.
Genesis Knight
Member
Get a Sony VTC4 18650. I got mine at LightningVapes with a Nitecore i4 Intelligent Charger V2.
DietRob
i've been begging for over 5 years.
Thanks for the recommendation. I got jumpy and made a $9 offer on this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/171673379410?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Which was accepted.
I'll look into that Sony one too. Can never have too many.
dream
Member
I know you already spent the money, but I would be very, very, very hesitant to use UltraFire or TrustFire batteries and chargers.
I use Samsung 25Rs, personally. You can get them for $5 a piece, and you don't have to worry about safety (as you will with the *fire batteries) or whether they are authentic or not (as you will with VTCs).
if they didnt change the drip tip from the previous version, yes you should easily be able to change the drip tip.
ew. one thing you dont cheap out on is batteries. the way i see it, stay away from anything that isnt manufactured by a well known electronics company. i buy sony, panasonic, lg. stay away from trustfire, mxjo, subohmcell, blow, and other vape branded batteries. even though the majority are rebranded/rewrapped, why buy a rebranded cell when you can just buy the original?
LocknessMobster
Member
Trying to get rid of all the juices I didnt care for,most of them are full. Trying to sell in one large swoop,PM me if interested.
http://min.us/i/NnUYouycCH7s
http://min.us/i/bniAUAdih4pSr
http://min.us/i/NnUYouycCH7s
http://min.us/i/bniAUAdih4pSr
DietRob
i've been begging for over 5 years.
Ah, OK. Yea this whole replaceable battery thing is new to me. I should have realized that as with everything else in life you get what you pay for. Eh.. maybe they will last a little while but when I go to replace them I'll make sure to get a well established and respected brand.
Nobody has said anything regarding the various specs of the batteries. Does that part not matter much? I want something that is powerful enough to deliver a good amount of power. I don't care about battery life as much as I do about having a high quality vaping experience.
dream
Member
It's not just a matter of them being crappy batteries though--they are outright unsafe batteries that can explode on you during normal usage.
The Samsung 25Rs I recommended are pretty much the best 18650s that are widely available, especially for what you're looking for. They're rated to discharge at 20 amps, which means you can use them safely at almost any reasonable wattage range that your gear supports. For example, I use a pair of them with a 0.2 build at 70 watts, which vapecalc.com tells me is...18.72 amps.
I picked up a Subox yesterday from my local B&M because my iStick 50W just died on me last week and I figured I might as well get the Subox since it was the same price as the iStick. The buttons feel more solid than the iStick. The OCC heads are new with vertical coils instead of horizontal coils in the first version heads. I would fire the old coils between 21-25W on my old iStick 50 and that would provide a warm, full hit. Whereas on the new coils, if I fire it at 25W the hit is just as full but it's much cooler. I'm hoping the new style are less prone to flooding and last longer than the first version coils.
The mini RBA is different and has holes on the sides for the wicks opposed to the juice wells the previous RBA had. It also has a tiny screw that connects the cover to the deck as opposed to cover itself screwing onto the deck(which I hated because mine always stuck).
My only gripe is that the magnetic battery cover doesn't sit 100% flush with the rest of the case all the time when attached. Sometimes it leaves a really tiny gap at the top that is barely noticeable and it bothers me a bit. I'm anal about those sort of things. If anyone is interested in buying one, be sure to open the cover so you can see what I mean.
At first I wasn't a fan of having to put batteries in it since my iStick had one built in. But having the pass-through charger is nice and I actually prefer it now. Also, it comes with some roughly 3/4" x 2 1/2" red stickers that you can put on your batteries so when they're in the shell the red color shows through the cut out Kanger logo.
Overall I'm really impressed with the way it looks and operates. I don't miss the iStick/Subtank at all.
The mini RBA is different and has holes on the sides for the wicks opposed to the juice wells the previous RBA had. It also has a tiny screw that connects the cover to the deck as opposed to cover itself screwing onto the deck(which I hated because mine always stuck).
My only gripe is that the magnetic battery cover doesn't sit 100% flush with the rest of the case all the time when attached. Sometimes it leaves a really tiny gap at the top that is barely noticeable and it bothers me a bit. I'm anal about those sort of things. If anyone is interested in buying one, be sure to open the cover so you can see what I mean.
At first I wasn't a fan of having to put batteries in it since my iStick had one built in. But having the pass-through charger is nice and I actually prefer it now. Also, it comes with some roughly 3/4" x 2 1/2" red stickers that you can put on your batteries so when they're in the shell the red color shows through the cut out Kanger logo.
Overall I'm really impressed with the way it looks and operates. I don't miss the iStick/Subtank at all.
cool, thanks!
DietRob
i've been begging for over 5 years.
Thank you for the knowledge bomb. Great info. Hopefully I don't end up with a vapor mod bomb in my hand. You have me very paranoid now though
I guess I will take that $9 purchase as an L and just use the charger that came with it. That wouldn't be an issue would it. Off to Ebay and Amazon to find out where I can get that Samsung 25R the cheapest at. Thanks again and happy vapes.
I'm currently using the iStick/Subtank combo. I like it well enough. It's the best setup I've had. I've been vaping for approaching 3 years now started off with a super shitty vape pen, graduated to tank system, then moved to little screw on drip atomizers, got a 20w iStick and protank2/Nautilus mini, and a few months ago stepped up to 50w iStick with an Atlantis tank. I really love this hobby but it's much more expensive than my other hobbies LOL.
dream
Member
Thank you for the knowledge bomb. Great info. Hopefully I don't end up with a vapor mod bomb in my hand. You have me very paranoid now though
I guess I will take that $9 purchase as an L and just use the charger that came with it. That wouldn't be an issue would it. Off to Ebay and Amazon to find out where I can get that Samsung 25R the cheapest at. Thanks again and happy vapes.
I hate to keep piling on, but I wouldn't use the charger either. I just took a look on Amazon for you, and they have the 2 bank Nitecore for $12.99.
DietRob
i've been begging for over 5 years.
I looks like the Kranger kit I bought comes with a charger. Or at least I think that is a charger in the picture. I just bought those samsung batteries you recommended on Amazon 11 something for 2 of them.
A lot of juice or just a little? And what PG/VG ratio is the juice you're using? Sounds like its probably just flooded.
I've noticed if I walk around with a subtank in my pocket it tends to flood a little bit. It'll also flood sometimes after I fill it, screw the tank onto the base, and turn it over. Sometimes to clear it out I'll turn the airflow way down and hit it lightly a few times. That seems to get rid of the excess juice pretty well. That or take out the atomizer and blow it out, but like I said, it could flood just from filling it. Also try to not fill it past the line on the center tube that connects to the atomizer.
Hope this helps!
DietRob
i've been begging for over 5 years.
Well my original subox mini (white) that I ordered about a week ago isn't going to ship until June 19th. So I went ahead and bought a black and red one that will ship tomorrow I can't wait to try this thing out. I'll probably just give the white one that comes later to my wife. Unless I like it MUCH MORE than my 30w Eleaf/Nautilus setup. In that case I'll keep both and give my wife my current setup. She needs to step her game up. She's been using spinner batteries on just standard plastic clearomizers for far to long. It's time to get her into the subohm game.
subox is awesome. the mod is essentially a safe istick50w (its safe because it has a removable battery). the form factor is small and excellent. the new subtank is the star though with new coils and air holes on 2 sides now. at 40w wide open i get a pretty damn good amount of vapor, better flavor than the original subtank, and an overall very satisfying vape.
i had no idea the subtank was updated so i was pleasantly surprised.
i had no idea the subtank was updated so i was pleasantly surprised.
thats never happened to me, my juice is 50/50 if it matters
Same problem. After reading Tuvoc's post it seems like i was also over eager to notice the line on the chimney.
Regardless, man this thing is awesome.
so i've got a mid-year bonus coming up at work... thinking of getting a mod for about $200 to keep at home, just for when i'm watching tv or gaming or whatever, so portability won't be a factor, and it'll likely be plugged into a usb charger most of the time. I don't see a point in uprgrading my IPV2 yet as it serves me fine
any suggestions?
any suggestions?
What atomisers do you use?
Well I've just picked up a Sigelei 100w plus for the 0.3 heads on my Atlantis 2. It's a beast, but it's inexpensive, comprehensive and I couldn't be happier with it for vaping at home. I wouldn't take it out though. I use a Vaporshark DNA30 with a Subtank Nano for that.
I thought Sigelei had newer models launching soon? 75w with temp control might be worth waiting for depending on what you need.
I don't have the subox, but do have some experience with subtanks and a delta2. Few things that worked for me: When I refill the tank I clean the center (where you draw air through) with a q-tip to get rid of any extra juice. I also clean the threads to prevent any minor leaks. When using a new coil, I start off at lower wattage and work my way up. I have found higher wattage can (depending on pg/vg) decrease juice spitting, but others may differ.
I've seen some people suggest occasionally holding down the button for 1 or 2 seconds prior to drawing to eliminate the spitting. I don't really like doing this because I hate any type of dry hit. Knowing how to draw, and adjusting the air intakes can make a huge difference too. I was told regarding the Delta 2 that drawing hard can actually resolve most issues (spitting, dry, etc) and it works like a charm (great tank too!), but this isn't the case for the subtank in my experience.
Need more info, juice ratio, coil, wattage and air flow?
Have had no problem with mine in a week of vaping, no spills/leaks/gurgle/spitting.
I'd suggest to retry installing everything. Tighten everything till its snug, don't wrench down on things. When priming the coil do very little drops to the edges of the cotton in the coil.
killertofu
Member
Anyone use e-cigs to ween off real cigs?
I've picked up a bad habit in the last year -__-
I've picked up a bad habit in the last year -__-
zer0blivion
Member
I did, years ago. I had an ego battery and a cartomizer tank. I was tobacco free for a while, but It was far too fiddly for me. Constantly charging and changing batteries, leaky tanks, dry/burnt hits and refilling cartomizers was far more trouble than I wanted to deal with so I ended up back on analog cigs.
I think the tech is a lot better now though, so I took the plunge and ordered a Vaporshark rDNA 40W and a Kanger subtank mini. It was pricey, but it should pay for itself once I stop buying cigarettes. It has the fancy temperature control so it should never burn the wick, never have a burnt taste, never a dry hit. I really hope this thing lives up to the hype.
Near as I can tell, every participating member in this thread aside from the handful who have posed questions about vaping 0mg nicotine juice to simply enjoy the sensations. So yeah, you're in good company. We were all hopelessly addicted at one point, otherwise we wouldn't have ended up here.
Which reminds me. I should have taken a picture of this billboard, it infuriated me so much. It was from a state sponsored and funded "quit line" and said in bold text over the image of an e-cigarette like device: "Ready to pull the plugs on E-Cigs & Traditional Tobacco? Call us and we will help you with other cessation methods!"
Right. Like the gums and patches that statistically don't work and never will but are OK to "push" because they are manufactured by huge pharmaceutical companies? Fuck yourselves. Yet another example of tax payer funded disinformation campaigns.
Beer Monkey
Member
Well, I guess it's time to get off the diketones.
This is going to be tough. Pretty much all my DIY and purchased juice these days is custardy. Time to learn to like straight fruit flavors.
If anybody has any good diketone-free recipes LMK!
This is going to be tough. Pretty much all my DIY and purchased juice these days is custardy. Time to learn to like straight fruit flavors.
If anybody has any good diketone-free recipes LMK!
zer0blivion
Member
I just tried to order some replacement coils for a subtank from canvape and the only payment methods they accept are Interac eTransfer or credit card payments through a third-party called Skrill.
Googled Skrill, and it seemed legit. Created a Skrill account, added my credit card and as part of the verification they billed me a random amount. Whatever, I'm going to buy these coils with it.
Chose Skrill as the payment method and then they wanted me to pay for my order in USD without conversion. They wanted me to pay CAD $56.16 for a CAD $45.54 order. I emailed them to ask why I was being asked to pay USD when the prices on the website are in CAD and their third-party payment company allows sending funds in CAD.
They gave me some BS answer and said I can use the other payment method if I don't like it. I told them they should make it clear on their website that when paying by credit card, their customers would be required to pay an additional fee equivalent to the current CAD-USD exchange rate and asked them to cancel my order.
Tried to log in to check if they had cancelled my order and my account was deleted.
Do not buy from canvape.
Googled Skrill, and it seemed legit. Created a Skrill account, added my credit card and as part of the verification they billed me a random amount. Whatever, I'm going to buy these coils with it.
Chose Skrill as the payment method and then they wanted me to pay for my order in USD without conversion. They wanted me to pay CAD $56.16 for a CAD $45.54 order. I emailed them to ask why I was being asked to pay USD when the prices on the website are in CAD and their third-party payment company allows sending funds in CAD.
They gave me some BS answer and said I can use the other payment method if I don't like it. I told them they should make it clear on their website that when paying by credit card, their customers would be required to pay an additional fee equivalent to the current CAD-USD exchange rate and asked them to cancel my order.
Tried to log in to check if they had cancelled my order and my account was deleted.
Do not buy from canvape.
Just ordered the new black Subtank Mini and a bunch of the the new vertical OCC coils. Need to figure out what kind of wire and cotton to buy for the RBA - as I really want to cut down my insane costs of buying Kanger coils twice a month.
Probably should have gotten the whole kit as they look sexy as hell - but my black iStick 50 will have to do.
Probably should have gotten the whole kit as they look sexy as hell - but my black iStick 50 will have to do.
DietRob
i've been begging for over 5 years.
OK good folks. I need 3 different recommendations for either a box mod or mechanical and a RDA. It's time to make the next step. I've got about 2 or 3 months until my store will open so I need to quit procrastinating and dive into the top level so I can learn and be able to educate potential customers.
I look forward to seeing the recommendations. I will probably just take the 3 or more suggestions throw them in a hat and pick one or two. The best part is I can then expense it as R&D on my taxes HAHA!
edit: It might help to know what I currently have. Kanger Subox kit (on the way i left the other one somewhere), iStick 30 and 50w, Nautilus and Atlantis, then just a bunch of beginner/mid level tanks, clear-o's, and batteries.
I look forward to seeing the recommendations. I will probably just take the 3 or more suggestions throw them in a hat and pick one or two. The best part is I can then expense it as R&D on my taxes HAHA!
edit: It might help to know what I currently have. Kanger Subox kit (on the way i left the other one somewhere), iStick 30 and 50w, Nautilus and Atlantis, then just a bunch of beginner/mid level tanks, clear-o's, and batteries.
zer0blivion
Member
Those black subtank minis are so sexy. I wish the place I ordered from had them. Unfortunately I've never rebuilt an atty, so I don't really have advice on that front.
You should get one of the new DNA 40 based mods with the new temperature control tech. They have nickel coils (required for temperature control) for the subtanks and nautilus, I believe. If you do get a DNA 40, whichever RDA you go with, get some nickel wire so you can use the temperature control.
Edit: I'll be getting my Vaporshark rDNA 40 on Monday or Tuesday. I can post impressions, once I've had a chance to try it out, if you like.
DietRob
i've been begging for over 5 years.
Thanks for mentioning this. I had no idea temperature control was possible. I really have to start following vaping news like I used to follow gaming news. Temperature control makes all kinds of sense. Sure you can control voltage, wattage, ohms, and countless other things but the objective of all of those gauges is essentially temperature. We have to get the juice to the right temp so that we can vape. It almost makes too much sense that all these variables we've been chasing with other devices all come back to temps. This tech might be a real game changer.
I'm definitely ordering one of these.
I'd have a hard time recommending a dna40 device at this time. With many more available options that offer higher wattage, 40w is just not enough imo. Well, I'd say 40w is enough to dabble in temp control, but again If not being used for temp control then a you just have an expensive low wattage mod. Take a look at the snow wolf 200w, ipv 4, ipv 3 li, evic vt, sx mini m class, just to name a few of the available tc mods out now. Evolve (makers of the dna40 chip) also recently announced that the next dna chip will be 200w. As for rdas, it seems like the mutation X, doge version whatever, royal hunter, mad hatter, and freakshow have all been fighting for the crown of best authentic in their price range ($30-$40). Are you buying these for yourself or to sell to customers? Because your target audience will largely dictate what products you should carry.
DietRob
i've been begging for over 5 years.
In my albeit limited experience with high wattage devices (borrowing a friends stuff) anything above around 60 - 70 watts just seems like overkill to me. I've always ended up getting that dreadful 'dry hit'. When that happens that nasty flavor doesn't seem to go away until I change out the atomizer in whatever tank I'm using.
Now maybe that changes with an RDA and instead of having to go through a $5 atomizer I can just yank out the cotton and add a new piece. If that's the case then I wouldn't be as hesitant to get a BIG POWER mod.
I found a new DNA 40 on ebay and my offer of $70 was accepted and it's on the way. I also got a tugboat v2 for 10 bones. I'm looking at either a Dark Horse or Mutation X RDA V3 to end my shopping spree for the night on.
Now maybe that changes with an RDA and instead of having to go through a $5 atomizer I can just yank out the cotton and add a new piece. If that's the case then I wouldn't be as hesitant to get a BIG POWER mod.
I found a new DNA 40 on ebay and my offer of $70 was accepted and it's on the way. I also got a tugboat v2 for 10 bones. I'm looking at either a Dark Horse or Mutation X RDA V3 to end my shopping spree for the night on.
No I agree with you. 200w is overly excessive and I personally can't see myself anywhere near 200w. But like I said, 40w just doesn't cut it for ME. I thought 60w was enough for me with the sx mini m class. And it is when it comes to temp control. But when I switch to my dual coil kanthal builds, I need just a tad bit more power to get to where I want. It's nice to have some room to grow into especially if your spending a bit of coin on a new mod. $189 for a 40w dna device just doesn't seem worth it to me especially with the other mods that are available with higher wattage. Again, wattage use will depend entirely on the user.
Honey, Let’s Quit Our Day Jobs and Start Up That Little Vape Shop We’ve Always Talked About
Local shop picked up the 3 flavors from Glas, they were all really good and in 15ml bottles so I got one of each. They only had 0 or 6 in the fruity Pebbles flavor so I finally bought my first bottle of 0. Going to try and switch over the next month and eliminate the nicotine but keep vaping like normal, then when I do quit I will know the nicotine is officially out of the equation.
I would say Cereal Milk from Kilo is better, maybe like a 9. The fruity Pebbles from Glas I would rate like an 8. There is not really a ton of creaminess or milkiness to the latter and I am a big fan of that. But it is still really good and not chalky by any means. The fruit blend is really sharp on the inhale and mostly zesty lemon lime on the exhale. So not quite as dank but pretty close. They also have a really good Pound Cake which is really rich with a light lemon exhale and a Strawberries & Cream flavor. Those are both excellent as well.
Local shop picked up the 3 flavors from Glas, they were all really good and in 15ml bottles so I got one of each. They only had 0 or 6 in the fruity Pebbles flavor so I finally bought my first bottle of 0. Going to try and switch over the next month and eliminate the nicotine but keep vaping like normal, then when I do quit I will know the nicotine is officially out of the equation.
I would say Cereal Milk from Kilo is better, maybe like a 9. The fruity Pebbles from Glas I would rate like an 8. There is not really a ton of creaminess or milkiness to the latter and I am a big fan of that. But it is still really good and not chalky by any means. The fruit blend is really sharp on the inhale and mostly zesty lemon lime on the exhale. So not quite as dank but pretty close. They also have a really good Pound Cake which is really rich with a light lemon exhale and a Strawberries & Cream flavor. Those are both excellent as well.
dream
Member
Shit, one UK vendor's tests show that not only is Five Pawns' entire line is laden with diketones, but the nic levels are wonky too.
DietRob
i've been begging for over 5 years.
I'm not really sure what diketones are but I just ordered some grand master I've heard really great things about it but have never tried it myself. I can't wait to throw it on my new gear.
DietRob
i've been begging for over 5 years.
Yea since posting that I read up a little on them. Good information to have. I'm not going to go too crazy yet. And I'm still going to try to enjoy the Grand Master juice I just paid $30 bucks for but it's certainly something to continue to keep an eye on.
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