Mine should arrive in a few days. I'm glad my rebuilding materials should arrive about the same time. What's your take on the I-ATTY so far? I'd love to know what setup you decide on, as far as wick material and coils. PEACE.
It is a lot different than the original upon further inspection. On the Z once you take the top cap off there is a single O-ring that is larger than the two that secure the tank. You slide this off to pull the tank off and the body is a single piece other than the interior post construction.
On this one the top deck has two o-rings just for the cap, once you remove the center post screw you then unscrew a little bushing which holds the center post and the insulator in place, then you push that entire assembly out the bottom. Then you have to unscrew the top deck from the lower part, which allows you to get the glass out and clean everything thoroughly with soap and water and a brush. As all clones it is covered in machining oils and might need a couple wipe downs in between the washing to get it all off.
Since the center post is two parts, the screw that goes in there is literally the tiniest diameter and threading I have ever seen. You'll want to be careful with this and not cross thread it or apply too much tension, as that should really be applied to the post bushing that secures the insulator and the rod.
Other than that I did my normal 1mm doubled over ekowool wick and pulled it thru the pre-mounted coil as "normal", except that it was only affixed to the bottom deck post at this time as I had to finish tank assembly afterwards. On the Z-atty since you can slide the glass down back over at any time as it never splits into two pieces, it is "open" to slide the wicks in under the top deck and work that way before affixing the glass.
I suppose that wouldn't be nearly as relevant if you were doing mesh or something that you could slide directly down the hole once it was all put together.
I upgraded my buddy from the old Igo-W I had hooked him up with and he was over the moon on it. Although like all Gennys of this style you can't leave it on its side unless you want it to leak everywhere around the coil and out the air hole in the deck and upper cap. The "air-hole" or "fill-hole" is also secured with a screw, I'm not really sure why as you would never want it to be blocked during normal usage as it is required for proper wicking as you tip it towards your face, the air goes in that hole. I'd imagine if it was blocked by the screw being installed it would not perform nearly as well.
Speaking of you will want to drill out the cap hole with a 1/16" bit, as the drilling job was so shit on this one as to be damn near impossible to draw through, it was just very roughly punched in and the metal on the backside of the hole was restricting the opening down to a tiny pin size diameter. Originally I was going to experiment with drilling two more holes above and below this as in the Doc Dave Havoc style, but I am going to wait on that until I get another one in. Alternately I have seen people who used to drill the single hole out to 5/64" but I think the three stacked holes over the coil length would make more sense. But at the very least you will have to clean this hole up to its intended size to get it to draw decently at all.
In other news my 12 ego twist batteries for my new starter kit gifts got rejected at Singapore Post and had to be re-shipped HKP ;_; Got the cases, the chargers, the EVOD heads, replacement head packs, everything else... ahhh well, patience is a virtue and all that jazz.
iclear30 is really really nice but damn does it go through juice like crazy, almost a deal breaker for me
The solution is simple, buy moar juice!
