Shin Johnpv
Member
I could have SWORN there was a framemeister thread, I guess I'm wrong on that one, I'd be willing to contribute info for a framemeister official thread if we make one.
A lot of the prose in the OP could be cut down to be more concise. The image comparison could be truncated and moved off to say an imgur gallery. While we're at it we could introduce more extreme problems with composite, especially on HDTVs.
That would make some room for a more comprehensive FAQ.
Or we could make a new topic and reserve post #2.
A lot of the prose in the OP could be cut down to be more concise. The image comparison could be truncated and moved off to say an imgur gallery. While we're at it we could introduce more extreme problems with composite, especially on HDTVs.
That would make some room for a more comprehensive FAQ.
Or we could make a new topic and reserve post #2.
Think about the guns (cathodes) as well.... If you can't up the numbers any further, then your monitor's phosphors are too worn out. ...
True, but usually has no effect for standard CRTs.... Typically the blue wears out faster than green and red (red = longest lasting). ...
See (*)... In all the Sony's I tried with x000 or x0,000 hours of wear, the blue level wears out faster and needs to be several hundred units higher to produce an image that looks neutral enough. ...
Red goes down first for standard CRTs, its cathode burns up faster.... I read this is true of all CRTs. ...
I always just thought of this as the Framemeister thread, been lots of discussion about it here for years.
I really want an old school VGA monitor. What was the standard resolution of those bad boys? I had one in the late 90s/early 2000s and think my parents got rid of it ;_;
Think about the guns (cathodes) as well.
True, but usually has no effect for standard CRTs.
See (*)
Red goes down first for standard CRTs, its cathode burns up faster.
(*)
Phosphor wear (esp. blue) can become an issue when
- very high beam currents are used (very bright studio/projection CRTs), and
- the cathodes can hold out long enough (barium reservoir).
Then of course there are cool professional computer CRTs like the GDM-FW900 which some people still use for lag-free PC gaming. Max res 2304x1440.
What CL are you browsing? In my area (central NJ) people are still trying to get >$100 for really good CRT monitors like that.I get a kick out of seeing 22" LaCie CRTs that go for $20 on Craigslist.
No, it's uncomfortably small. There's a glut of these 5 and 8 inch monitors online. I dunno why they're priced so high when hardly anyone wants them.
Standard TVs, yes. There wasn't even a pot for the red gun.By standard, you mean TVs and not professional monitors? From what I have read on a... pro video forum I think it was?, the phosphor coating wears out long before the electron guns so that the screen's ability to display blue is compromised before actual blue output of the gun. This makes sense given that burn-in (uneven phosphor wear) can commonly happen when the monitor is otherwise still bright and colorful, plus the advice to turn down brightness and contrast to increase life of the tube (coating wear, not parts failure).
is the size the main issue with it? Space is a concern for me and I have a shelf that this will perfectly fit on.
8 inches is tiny
Same here. A separate Framemeister thread would be... weird.
But there's so little just Framemeister info in the first post.
I understand people talk FM in here, but it doesn't seem like the focus is just on this.
For example it's pretty sane to start with how the FM is really the only good scaler option at the moment, but it's very expensive and a CRT is a good choice as well. But CRTs have their drawbacks, which are of course well known to us, so an FM is still a very good choice and more future proof.
I don't really think you can discuss scalers for old games without getting into CRTs and they will always be another option... well, for the foreseeable future at least. Similarly, it's hard to talk about CRTs and PVMs without getting into future supply and reliability issues, which just leads you back to highend scalers.
But there's so little just Framemeister info in the first post.
I understand people talk FM in here, but it doesn't seem like the focus is just on this.
is the size the main issue with it? Space is a concern for me and I have a shelf that this will perfectly fit on.
My arcade has 40 year old CRTs that get serviced regularly. Capacitors and solder aren't going out of production. I'm not expecting any major problem keeping PVMs running for 25-30 more years. It's going to cost money and take some effort, sure.
We need a new title/thread. I'm with BM, we shouldn't limit ourselves here.This will make it completely beyond what normal people are willing to do to keep CRTs going. I have enough trouble trying to convince people to solder in new batteries in their cartridges.
Where's that? I'm always on the look out for a good CRT service that can help me out for a reasonable price.My arcade has 40 year old CRTs that get serviced regularly.
Agreed. The experience of having the thread go on for so long is informative as to what most people are interested in and what their questions are. I personally have fielded the same basic "what is the best hook up I can use for this" kind of question many times and I only just started posting here a year ago or so. IMO the OP should reflect the thread as a whole and therefore should be open to evolution as we learn what people are interested in and what the best points to put forward initially are.We need a new title/thread. I'm with BM, we shouldn't limit ourselves here.
I also find that CRT tech, issues etc. needs to be addressed a bit more.
Where's that? I'm always on the look out for a good CRT service that can help me out for a reasonable price.
is the size the main issue with it? Space is a concern for me and I have a shelf that this will perfectly fit on.
There is a small scratch/dent on the top left of my BVM screen. It's really not a huge deal, considering it's invisible in most cases, but sometimes it does show (in particular when there is anything light colored in that area). Is there anything that can be done to either repair this or make it less obvious?
What this thread needs is more capture card talk.=pIt's not like the thread gets totally dominated by one thing or the other, either. There's a lot of CRT talk right now, but when the OSSC finally drops? Priorities gonna shift.
What CL are you browsing? In my area (central NJ) people are still trying to get >$100 for really good CRT monitors like that.
There's never enough talk about latency (well, to me). Five frames of lag on your flat panel, two frames of lag in your emulator (I'm including official stuff like Virtual Console, Megaman legacy etc), two frames of lag in your Framemeister, and you just can't have the the real classic experience, period, not with nine frames of latency. It will never feel like playing an old console on a CRT. That should be prominent.
If anything, I think we should do the opposite of minimizing our focus to specific areas and actually start addressing more things. Audio, integrate the OLED Vs. Plasma Vs. LCD, 120+ Hz monitors... Just be the GAF's general A/V club. lol
OSSC is certainly a factor but... personally I don't think the OSSC is quite enough since by removing s-video you force N64 and probably GameCube into mod-it territory. It's poor deinterlacing options are also a big minus. It'll slot in as an option cheaper (?) than the framemeister at least. Btw how much are we expecting this thing to cost?
Edit:
Let's not.
No one has spoken of two different threads.Peagles has a point. This thread does not move quickly enough to warrant having two separate topics. Sometimes I check in after an entire day has passed and there are only a handful of new posts. ...
OSSC is certainly a factor but... personally I don't think the OSSC is quite enough since by removing s-video you force N64 and probably GameCube into mod-it territory. It's poor deinterlacing options are also a big minus. It'll slot in as an option cheaper (?) than the framemeister at least. Btw how much are we expecting this thing to cost?
Edit:
Let's not.
There was a new PAL in the works; "s-video" through one wire.S-Video is good! It's a big jump from composite, solves most of it's problem with shit image, ...
There's never enough talk about latency (well, to me). Five frames of lag on your flat panel, two frames of lag in your emulator (I'm including official stuff like Virtual Console, Megaman legacy etc), two frames of lag in your Framemeister, and you just can't have the the real classic experience, period, not with nine frames of latency. It will never feel like playing an old console on a CRT. That should be prominent.
Why not? There's a lot of interesting technology to discus that FM users could appreciate. We already go heavy on the inner workings of CRTs. We could carry that over to HDTVs.
Also, why even limit ourselves to "Retro gaming done right?" RGB and upscaling didn't stop at the 6th generation of consoles. Current/last gen consoles have their own display anomalies that we can can talk about, but can't really carry their own thread. The other day there was some interesting talk in a thread about the PS3's weird internal scaler.
Why not? There's a lot of interesting technology to discus that FM users could appreciate. We already go heavy on the inner workings of CRTs. We could carry that over to HDTVs.
Also, why even limit ourselves to "Retro gaming done right?" RGB and upscaling didn't stop at the 6th generation of consoles. Current/last gen consoles have their own display anomalies that we can can talk about, but can't really carry their own thread. The other day there was some interesting talk in a thread about the PS3's weird internal scaler.
This thread started mainly as an upscaler thread though, so I guess this is where the confusion stems from. It was later hijacked by CRT fanboys and the OT was rewritten to accommodate for them too.
CRT are the superior option so I'm ok with this.
PS3's tragic internal scaler is something of an exception. Everything else that does HDMI is mostly plug and play, make sure your TV isn't overscanning anything and doesn't have any processing on and you're done.