I can do that.
Why didn't I think of that?
I managed to break my AV Famicom's PPU when trying to install the NESRGB. Does anyone know if it's ok to use a Famicom PPU or a NES PPU instead (I'm guessing I can just pick up a broken one for cheap, rather than getting another AV Famicom)?
I managed to break my AV Famicom's PPU when trying to install the NESRGB. Does anyone know if it's ok to use a Famicom PPU or a NES PPU instead (I'm guessing I can just pick up a broken one for cheap, rather than getting another AV Famicom)?
My setup is a mess, and I'm constantly shuffling hardware in and out of the apartment anyway for local fighting game events. I don't have any switches and hook everything up one system at a time. My LCD monitor stand consists of a handful of Amazon.com boxes.
My setup is a mess, and I'm constantly shuffling hardware in and out of the apartment anyway for local fighting game events. I don't have any switches and hook everything up one system at a time. My LCD monitor stand consists of a handful of Amazon.com boxes.
Soooo...everyone here has likely shown off their set-ups, but how is everything connected? I'm kinda drowning in cables, but I've done the best I can with the inputs:
And just in case you're wondering - there's no signal degradation that I can see from using the second switcher. As for the XRGB-Mini itself, I've been kinda limited with the godawful position that the RGB-In socket is at - but I've just ordered an 8-pin mini-din extension cable which will keep the XRGB happily tucked away lower down on my unit, and free up space for another console (likely a Wii U in the future).
Soooo...everyone here has likely shown off their set-ups, but how is everything connected? I'm kinda drowning in cables, but I've done the best I can with the inputs:
Soooo...everyone here has likely shown off their set-ups, but how is everything connected? I'm kinda drowning in cables, but I've done the best I can with the inputs:
And just in case you're wondering - there's no signal degradation that I can see from using the second switcher. As for the XRGB-Mini itself, I've been kinda limited with the godawful position that the RGB-In socket is at - but I've just ordered an 8-pin mini-din extension cable which will keep the XRGB happily tucked away lower down on my unit, and free up space for another console (likely a Wii U in the future).
So theres no reduction in picture brightness when daisy chain the scart sockets??
That is a bit of a relief. I plan on daisy chaning one, or maybe even two off of the first switcher. I put together my TV stand and accompanying "technology pier" over the weekend, so I'll be excited to get some free time and hook everything up this weekend. I'm hoping I have space for all of the systems.
Did they not let you plug it in?
This is new
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Super-Ninte...ideo_Game_Cables_Adapters&hash=item2ed2e80c1f
I previously bought her original cables, which seem to be of good quality. Do I need to be upgrading to the 'Pro' edition?
This is new
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Super-Ninte...ideo_Game_Cables_Adapters&hash=item2ed2e80c1f
I previously bought her original cables, which seem to be of good quality. Do I need to be upgrading to the 'Pro' edition?
Haha, I figured so. Thanks man.Wait for the Ultra Pro Edition and its gold-plated contacts and diamond shielding.
You're good with what you have
Really? She has a pretty loyal following as far as a video game cable maker goes, so I could see her popping out some limited editions to get the people excitedNo idea, but know she has sold a few of those before, always in low numbers. What it offers over the normal I have no idea, and surprised she didn't go over that in the details.
This is new
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Super-Ninte...ideo_Game_Cables_Adapters&hash=item2ed2e80c1f
I previously bought her original cables, which seem to be of good quality. Do I need to be upgrading to the 'Pro' edition?
You might be able to find a service menu code on Google, but play around with that stuff at your own risk.Wasn't sure where else to post this. My sister gave me her old CRT and I've since hooked up all my retro systems. Is there any way to adjust the screen position? There's nothing in the menu about it. I just wish I could move the screen position over to the left about half an inch.
AWESOME.No lossy compression in these shots, and the color space has been calibrated correctly for each of them. The first 3 were deinterlaced via the Yadif filter.
I sent a few to IrishNinja to add to the OP. So just wait on him to open up his inbox.EDIT: Do you by any chance have more of those?
Glorious!I sent a few to IrishNinja to add to the OP. So just wait on him to open up his inbox.
No lossy compression in these shots, and the color space has been calibrated correctly for each of them. The first 3 were deinterlaced via the Yadif filter.
To be honest, while doing all of these tests, I actually thought that S-video doesn't look half-bad most of the time, haha. I think this is particularly true of early 3D games that ran in low resolutions with no anti-aliasing. The blurring inherent to S-video and composite can be arguably beneficial to users who absolutely hate jaggies. I sent 5 game samples from 5 different systems (with more to come) that I chose to try and cover as many bases at once: 240p 2D game, 240p 3D game, 480i 3D game, 480p 3D game, 480p 2D game. I'm going to add more 2D samples once my NES and cable comes back in the mail (currently being modded).Glorious!
I have just one nitpick, which is that the game chosen kinda benefits S-video because I notice colorful colors, like pure Red, Green and Blue suffer the most on it, and the game has none in the spotlight.
But one can make it out nonetheless by pointing out how the energy bars look and other tell signs.
I don't think I ever saw composite and S-video captures as good as these.
EDIT: After I see the rewrite I might contribute too, I wrote a lengthy piece recently in regards to how to pick a good old CRT, not focusing on models, stuff like how to count TV lines, how it works and stuff like that. Problem is I did it in my native language so would have to translate it. Can't promise anything in foreseeable time though.
S-video is not bad at all, seeing RGB being so difficult on some consoles, like the N64 settling for S-Video is perfectly fine if they do support it, RGB is just that tad bit better.To be honest, while doing all of these tests, I actually thought that S-video doesn't look half-bad most of the time, haha. I think this is particularly true of early 3D games that ran in low resolutions with no anti-aliasing. The blurring inherent to S-video and composite can be arguably beneficial to users who absolutely hate jaggies. I sent 5 game samples from 5 different systems (with more to come) that I chose to try and cover as many bases at once: 240p 2D game, 240p 3D game, 480i 3D game, 480p 3D game, 480p 2D game.
I didn't know DC crushed colors in RGB; thought they were pretty similar taking the 480p issue aside.I also adjusted the color space and range so that each signal was optimized as much as possible. Even then, the Dreamcast footage has some obvious black crush in anything other than VGA.
Hmmm, how do the interlaced results appear?If there's one thing I'm unhappy with the captures, it's that there's no "right" way to handle 480i with what I've got. I spent a lot of time searching for a partial deinterlace filter that actually produces what you'd get on a CRT (two alternating fields updating 60 times per second), but I couldn't find any. So I went with a full deinterlace filter instead (Yadif) because that's closer to what an HDTV or an upscaler would do to the picture anyway. Leaving the interlaced capture in an unaltered state (both fields updating simultaneously 30 times per second) isn't representative of what you'd usually get on either a CRT or a flatscreen, so Yadif was the best compromise I could use.
I might just cap screens of the 240p test suite via different cables to get a more "pure" comparison while I'm at it.
The left GIF is how 480i is supposed to look. The right GIF is how capture hardware tends to handle it.Hmmm, how do the interlaced results appear?
Black bars on the lines that were not refreshed?
And can it capture a sequence of two?
I see.480i alternates between each field at 60hz. The captures record both fields simultaneously at 30hz.
I want to find a filter that modifies the capture so that it represents what actual 480i looks like (double the framerate, then add a 1-frame delay to one of the fields) but came up blank when I was searching for one.
OK not sure if this is the right place to ask but here we go.
So I recently got a capture device and I have to ask when it comes to picture quality is it better just playing a game off the original console? For example I have the Component Cable for the Gamecube (damm was that thing expensive) and that's how I normally capture gameplay or play my games on my Gamecube but I'm wondering would the picture quality improve if I were to play my Gamecube games on a Wii with a component cable instead?
Of course Component Cables are lock into 480p IIRC so I have to ask are upscalers really worth it? I spent a good amount on the Component Cable for the Gamecube so I suppose an upscaler is not out of the question for me.
So, I stupidly bought a Bandridge SCART switch to go with my new X-RGB 3. It did not work so I'm assuming it is not directly compatible with JP21 cables. Does anyone have any experience with whether or not it's practical to mod it? I'm decent enough at soldering. Can anyone point me to a switch that's designed for Japanese signals?
Honestly, with the gamecube, upscalers are a luxury rather than a necessity. HDTV's are usually good at upscaling 480p, and while the 480i games of the gamecube will look mediocre, they're a minority.
Gamecube Component also generally looks a little better than Wii Component, so you're ok there. If Gamecube is the only thing you're playing, just stick with component cables and you're set. With anything prior to the Dreamcast though? Upscalers will make them beautiful.
Is it the automatic version of the Bandridge? Because the manual (ie. togglebuttons) version should not have problems, apart from the red LED not lighting up. If it's the manual you have, the problem is elsewhere.