About 10h in, probably a bit less. The plains were awesome to chart through, so huge and full of monsters way too strong for my level 24 party. Getting chased by that huge bird on top of the observation platform down the tunnel and getting insta-killed... Loved it.
I'm not really doing the side quests. Sometimes when I feel like going back to Col6 (or is it 9? The place where you start) to forge gems and I complete a few quests around here for a change of pace, but that's about it. I talk to everyone and accept everything, but I rarely do much (I did the loan shark and broken watch ones, that's about it). The game's story seems enough to entertain and fighting the once OS-sure-death monsters is motivation enough to come back to earlier places. I wish the "teleporting" system worked better though. To get back to Dunban's house for instance, why can't I just switch to that place? I have to switch to all the intermediate places up to that one. That's a drag.
The resolution and textures make me wish I was playing it on Dolphin / Wii though. It's all nice and I love finding the big vistas, but sometimes (mostly in fights) it's really just a pixel soup.