Plasma, LCD, OLED, LED, best tv for next gen
- Thread starter spannicus
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MWS Natural
Member
Beat out the OLED? Wow...that's really shocking, because that LG OLED had the best looking picture I've seen and I'm a Kuro/Panny owner.
Tathanen
Get Inside Her!
I'm pretty thrilled with the picture I'm getting out of my VT60, using the pro settings that had been set by the guy I bought the TV from. If I had one complaint, though, (beyond the banding on the right side of the screen grr) it'd be that I get a lot of black crush. If I throw in a Blu Ray it'll typically look fantastic, but a lot of broadcast television has pretty crushed blacks. I'm tempted to just blame shitty source material, but I watch an awful lot of TV, and I'd sure like if it looked better. If I wanted to poke around with the settings to try and alleviate this, what would be my best bet? (I've got full-range RGB set to auto, btw, so I'm guessing it's not the issue.)
BTW, I turned off game mode to watch a movie so I could get the 96hz mode, then forgot to turn it back on, and didn't notice when I played Mario Kart next time. Maybe I'll just leave it off until I actually notice myself suffering somehow.
BTW, I turned off game mode to watch a movie so I could get the 96hz mode, then forgot to turn it back on, and didn't notice when I played Mario Kart next time. Maybe I'll just leave it off until I actually notice myself suffering somehow.
Well, plasma is the more refined tech and the Panasonic ZT60 is the pinnacle of the plasmas so I'm not surprised. OLED is still in early stages in comparison.
See You Next Wednesday
Banned
2 possible causes of black crush for that TV: panel brightness set to high, and/or gamma set to s-curve. Both settings will crush colors for that showroom "pop". Better settings for both would be: panel brightness set to mid, and gamma 2.2.
I don't think the X950B is coming out in the UK. It should be at the VE shootout in July though.
Tathanen
Get Inside Her!
Pretty sure brightness is mid, but I customized another input with 2.2 gamma, I'll try setting that on the main one and see what happens.
PsihoPerihelion
Member
My parents got a new Samsung Serie 5 LED and PS4 looks stunning on it. My only issue is that I'm always nip picking stuff and I can't find a satisfying configuration. If I use Game Mode, I get the usual "Dynamic Light" or whatever is called when you look at dark parts and it just "turns off" the backlight. I simply cannot found how to deactivate it using Game Mode. If I use Movie Mode, I don't get the Dynamic crap, but it doesn't look as clean as Game Mode does. I don't feel any imput lag on any mode, buy I like game mode better. Any suggestions? Don't get me wrong, the thing looks stunning, but I want to get as much as I can out of it.
Also, is there any guide or something to help me configure contrast, colors, and all that?
Also, is there any guide or something to help me configure contrast, colors, and all that?
I'll be using the TV for movies/shows/football (70%) and gaming (30%). You know, I've now seen both TVs in person and honestly I kinda changed my mind about the looks. W905's stand actually doesn't seem that tacky and the one on the W829 ... ehhh, I still like the design, but the metal it's made from looks cheap and uninspiring. Also, it looks like the price difference between the two is only about 50 EUR here, so, yeah. One small thing the W829 has going for itself is the fact that I might win a PS4 by buying it. Still undecided, but now leaning towards the W905.
Splash Wave
Member
Sony KDL40W600B Impressions: I've been messing around with my PS+ backlog, and everything looks phenomenal. This TV is an incredible value.
I'd be wary of playing video games on an OLED (or buying one in general) until they get the burn-in sorted out. Look at the burn-in issues the OLED Vita had.
SliceSabre
Banned
Got myself a Samsung 32" LED after my Insignia 32", my first HDTV, wet the bed after a thunderstorm and the mainboard was shot.
Liking the picture on this Samsung more and this sounds stupid but I like how a little music tone plays when it turns on and off.
Liking the picture on this Samsung more and this sounds stupid but I like how a little music tone plays when it turns on and off.
Otakumegane
Member
Thankfully I even without the calibration tools I got my red flush sorted out. Tone down high level reds a bit and down the contrast very slightly. Sky doesn't look purple anymore yay.
I am looking to buy a new 55-to-60-inch TV, but Sony's range of models is confusing to me. They use different model numbers for different markets, and so I am having a bit of trouble matching the models I see for sale here in Norway with the ones I see reviewed by different English-language websites, which makes determining the best one to buy more of a challenge.
I have added pictures and model numbers below for four possible options. I would very much appreciate any clarification and advice on the best one for me to buy! I would have gone for last year's W9, but it is not available for sale here any more, unfortunately.
I have added pictures and model numbers below for four possible options. I would very much appreciate any clarification and advice on the best one for me to buy! I would have gone for last year's W9, but it is not available for sale here any more, unfortunately.
This is called the W805BB - it is the cheapest one and has a promotion with a free soundbar going on right now. 55 inches.
This is called the W955BB - more expensive than the previous one by about 20%. 55 inches.
This is called the W828BB - around the same price as the previous one. 55 inches.
Finally, this is called the W855 - 30% more expensive than the previous two. 60 inches.
So, the 50" Samsung 7000 series plasma (2010 model), I've been using had two rows of pixels die on it in the last week and a half. After researching it this problem appears to be pretty common and way to expensive to repair in comparison to just buying a new TV.
I don't want to go lower than 50" and want to keep the price somewhere around $1,000.00 or under. If it's just slightly higher I wouldn't necessarily be against it. I'm looking for something with solid picture quality, low input lag, and little ghosting/stuttering/whatever you want to call it during motion heavy content. I don't care about 3D, apps, or other random features.
I have my eye on the Sony KDL50W800B ($999.99) as after seeing it in person I was pretty blown away by the image quality. I just want to know if there are better option out there for roughly the same price range. My friend is pushing my towards the Samsung PN51F5300AFXZA ($549.99, Best Buy sale) because he thinks plasma is the way to go, which typically I would agree with, and the price is much better. My issue with it is the high input lag (I'm reading it sits between 70ms to 100ms) and apparently the glare is pretty terrible (this will be in a semi well lit room).
Are there any other options that I'd be better off with for the same price range and size?
I don't want to go lower than 50" and want to keep the price somewhere around $1,000.00 or under. If it's just slightly higher I wouldn't necessarily be against it. I'm looking for something with solid picture quality, low input lag, and little ghosting/stuttering/whatever you want to call it during motion heavy content. I don't care about 3D, apps, or other random features.
I have my eye on the Sony KDL50W800B ($999.99) as after seeing it in person I was pretty blown away by the image quality. I just want to know if there are better option out there for roughly the same price range. My friend is pushing my towards the Samsung PN51F5300AFXZA ($549.99, Best Buy sale) because he thinks plasma is the way to go, which typically I would agree with, and the price is much better. My issue with it is the high input lag (I'm reading it sits between 70ms to 100ms) and apparently the glare is pretty terrible (this will be in a semi well lit room).
Are there any other options that I'd be better off with for the same price range and size?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BB0ZTJA/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Picking up this bad boy soon. Anyone else have any experience with it?
Picking up this bad boy soon. Anyone else have any experience with it?
TangoAlphaLima
Member
First, you should check and make sure that Samsung isn't a pentile display. I know the 60" version is, but I want to say the 51" isn't, but I'm not sure on that.
Second, regarding input lag on plasmas, only compare the millisecond readings to other plasmas. Most tests done on input lag these days use the Leo Bodnar tester, and the testers acknowledge that it doesn't quite capture the responsiveness of plasmas due to how they refresh. So compare LED readings to other LEDs, and plasma readings to other plasmas, but don't compare the different types to one another. A 70ms plasma is probably closer to a 50ms LED than it is a 70ms LED.
Lastly, most plasmas have pretty reflective screens, unless you're willing to shell out big money for one with an anti-reflective coating. So yeah, if you're in a bright room, especially one with a source of lighting in front of the TV, I'd stay away from most plasmas.
This should be of help. Feel free to ask, if it doesn't clear up things for you. Basically, if the W905A isn't an option for you, the next best thing is the W828 (or W829, since it's the exact same TV), if you're going with 55".
I'll keep those points in mind! I appreciate the response! Having a plasma for a while now I guess I haven't too bothered by the glare (though it seems this one in particular has a major issue with it... http://www.rtings.com/reviews/tv/plasma/samsung/f5300). Do you think for the price the Samsung would be the way to go over the Sony?
TangoAlphaLima
Member
It just depends what is important to you. If performance is king, no matter the cost, then go with the Sony. For me, though, I like to get the best value for my money. I just bought an LG 60PB6600 plasma for $688 from Fry's, and I love it. If you're really worried about input lag though, that model is not the way to go, as it's rated 71ms (I think it's perfectly fine for gaming, but I'm not super sensitive to such things; for example, I can see a difference between 30fps and 60fps, but it doesn't matter much to me). I had looked at the Samsung PN60F5300 as well, but the pentile display was a deal killer for me.
I really like my LG as discussed above, but it has the general issues most plasmas have (re: reflectiveness) as well as having more input lag than many people like. If these things aren't a concern, however, it's got great performance and size for the price.
what burn in issues? I have an OLED Vita.
After looking up what pentile displays were (thanks for pointing it out) I will definitely be avoiding the Samsung. I was wondering why certain 1080p TVs looked so grainy/pixelated when I was wandering around Best Buy and that apparently is the exact reason.
Is there any image retentation with your LG? I've heard that LG is fairly notorious for it and that was one of the most annoying things with the Samsung I've been using.
Thanks for the feedback!
Thank you so much for the link! This does clarify some of the differences between these similarly named models. Also, from having read a bit more about it, it seems like the W955 is out due to the poorer picture quality from Sony's choice to use an IPS panel.
However, the reviews at the website you linked me to do not go into a lot of detail about each TV's performance level in terms of picture quality and such. In your opinion, is the W828 that much better than the W805B to justify the 20% price increase? While I can afford any of the models I listed, value versus money spent is not an entirely irrelevant factor.
Thanks again for your help!
TangoAlphaLima
Member
I saw some brief image retention early on, but after I've run slides for 50 hours and used the TV for about 25 hours, I haven't noticed much at all. I've even played quite a bit of Watch Dogs without experiencing it. Totally a non-issue for me.
20% price increase seems a bit much, the W828 is about 100 EUR more than the W805 here, I think I even saw them listed at the same price. Or maybe it was the W815. In any case, the only real difference between the three 55" W8 models seems to be the Motion Flow "refresh rate" (800hz vs. 600hz vs. 400hz), which some people like, some use it on medium or light and only with selected content, such as sports, while some turn it off completely. It's hard to tell how much better or worse the W828 and the W805 are in relation to each other. My guess is that in real world scenarios you'd hardly ever notice the difference. If at all. I've yet to see motion interpolation that doesn't make content, any content, look like complete garbage. Soap opera effect and all that.
Btw, I'm in the same boat. Right now I'm set on buying the 55" W905A, since it looks like last year's models are still available here. I can get it for 1450. If I won't be able to find one, then I'm definitely going with the 55" W828. It's 1399 in most stores, but I found one near me that currently has it for 1188. And there's a PS4 promotion attached to it too.
What's the US equivalent to the 828? Is it the 800B?
That's what I've been told, yes. EU W828B = US W800B. Sony's numbering system is confusing to say the least.
michaelius
Banned
And their website is huge PITA to find out anything about those models.
if you're going to watch a lot of sport, it is probably worth getting a set with decent motionflow - which would rule out the W6 series.
The Demon Headmaster
Member
Was looking to pick up the LG 42LN540V LED for the PS4.Does anyone have anything to say for picture quality? Anyone tried it with the PS4? Thanks
Well, I ended up grabbing the Sony KDL50W800B after going and looking at it in person again with a friend. When I got home and set it up it turned out to be fairly disappointing. One of the main things that stood out about the show floor model was just how much the colors popped. On my TV all the colors are very muted. There's no vibrancy and the overall picture is very dull. Even with the backlight fully cranked up the image still looks rather dim compared to the Samsung plasma I had... Which makes no sense considering LEDs always look way brighter than plasmas. The black levels are fantastic but lettering that should be white looks dull and grey.
I tried a bunch of calibration settings I saw online and when I try to match what others have done my image gets super dark... One thing that really bugs me is there is absolutely no contrast setting. I tried using the Xbox One's calibration setup and that's when I noticed there is no option available to change the contrast.
Does anybody else have this TV that can comment on what I'm dealing with? I'm going to have my friend over tomorrow to take a look as he saw the display model with me. I want to be sure I'm not going crazy. I'm a little worried I may have to bring this one back to trade in for a new one.
I tried a bunch of calibration settings I saw online and when I try to match what others have done my image gets super dark... One thing that really bugs me is there is absolutely no contrast setting. I tried using the Xbox One's calibration setup and that's when I noticed there is no option available to change the contrast.
Does anybody else have this TV that can comment on what I'm dealing with? I'm going to have my friend over tomorrow to take a look as he saw the display model with me. I want to be sure I'm not going crazy. I'm a little worried I may have to bring this one back to trade in for a new one.
'CONTRAST' is, i believe, labeled 'PICTURE'.
It sounds like you might still have some Eco settings turned on ... there is a brightness limiter that is enabled by default you may need to turn off.
It can be a little trickier to notice because you won't find it in the Picture Settings.
Instead, on your remote press the big HOME button .. then at the top right of your screen go to :
SETTINGS>PREFERENCES>ECO>LIGHT SENSOR: OFF
Also some of the Motionflow settings will give you a much dimmer picture, so adjust those as needed.
geordiemp
Member
Good review here : (they don't like the IPS panel blacks used compared to last years & other models)
http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/news/kdl55w955b-201403103661.htm
17 ms is the leo bodnar tester which adds a bit, 6 ms compared to CRT which is excellent.
Other problem with these sets is being wedge shaped not good for wall mount...
You may end up being my hero this afternoon when I get off work...
I was guessing the picture setting might have something to do with contrast but it was set to max by default. I will definitely try to turn off the Light Sensor thing. I didn't know anything about it. I really appreciate the heads up! I'll reply back this evening with the results. I'm hoping it makes a difference because I really don't feel like packing that thing back up... That and all the stores in my city are sold out so I'd either have to drive over an hour to bick another one up or wait a week for them to get another in stock.
lostinblue
Banned
W950B is utter crap.
W850B is a W900A without triluminos and pseudo local dimming
W900A is the real deal.
W850B is a W900A without triluminos and pseudo local dimming
W900A is the real deal.
Just wanted to post and say I'm really satisfied with the Advanced Options on the 65VT60.
I set the HDMI black level to "Auto" for PS4 and Xbox 360, and "Limited" for the Wii U. This is adjustable per HDMI input, which means I get Full Range RGB on PS4 and "sometimes" Xbox 360, and the correct black level for Wii U over HDMI automatically.
I friggin' love this TV. Sure, I have to run optical for Wii U to my Emotiva and matrix the surround sound with NEO:6, but lag-free Mario Kart 8 is worth it.
Did I happen to mention I'm a videophile?
I set the HDMI black level to "Auto" for PS4 and Xbox 360, and "Limited" for the Wii U. This is adjustable per HDMI input, which means I get Full Range RGB on PS4 and "sometimes" Xbox 360, and the correct black level for Wii U over HDMI automatically.
I friggin' love this TV. Sure, I have to run optical for Wii U to my Emotiva and matrix the surround sound with NEO:6, but lag-free Mario Kart 8 is worth it.
Did I happen to mention I'm a videophile?
lostinblue
Banned
^ You don't need to, anyone with a VT60 turns into a videophile the moment he sees another TV that's not a Kuro.
Hell, my family pulls that already and they know nothing about video quality, they just start to notice things they otherwise wouldn't.
Badass TV.
Hell, my family pulls that already and they know nothing about video quality, they just start to notice things they otherwise wouldn't.
Badass TV.
Please stop talking about the VT60. I've barely managed to convince myself it's not the right TV for me ... Don't tempt me.
Sorry, but it's an amazing TV. I wish I could I could invite everyone over to see it for themselves, but I can't, so you just gotta trust me.
Buy one before they're gone forever.
Games and movies both look stunning.
Power consumpion, emitted heat, dithering, buzzing and IR, coupled with the fact that I'm not the babysitting type (one example: I often fall asleep watching TV and wake up hours later to a static image) and the substantially higher price (~500€ more compared to the LED I'm currently set on buying) are keeping me away.
lostinblue
Banned
Power consumption is not that high.Power consumpion, emitted heat, dithering, buzzing and IR, coupled with the fact that I'm not the babysitting type (one example: I often fall asleep watching TV and wake up hours later to a static image) and the substantially higher price (~500€ more compared to the LED I'm currently set on buying) are keeping me away.
300W @ 65" in THX, 200W in normal mode; every heater you have in your house and perhaps your desktop PC will consume more than that. It's simply a matter of perspective.
LED TV's can consume less and therefore be Class A+, sure, but add it all up and you won't be paying all that much more for it on your electricity bill.
Heat... They do indeed emit more heat than a LCD but nothing earth shattering although if you live in a poor ventilated narrow space it can do the difference, then again so can my macbook pro. Or an incandescent bulb.
Buzzing is the lowest I've experienced on a plasma.
IR and babysitting, well, it's mostly through the initial 1000 hours, but sure. I do babysit stuff that cost this much. I never really did for my older and cheaper plasmas sets though and never had a problem, but I had good panel approach from the get go due to them... not to say they didn't get abused here and there because I'm not the only one using them. The habits of using screen savers or changing channel if I was just seeing a static screen for 5 minutes... that kind of stuff. But that's just respect for the panel should be done for LCD's and projectors too.
Or switch them off.
I do agree on the phrase "if you have kids don't get plasma" though, or rather, you gotta be careful, because they're the sort of minions that are able to just see one channel forever, change settings into suicidal ones not to mention throw Wiimote controllers at it.
I'd still get a plasma if it's for me, but it would be like my dad's prized possessions way back, "no touching the turntable you fuck" (which I actually did, and his 80's calculator computer too, you guys should have seen his face when suddenly the QWERTY keyboard went like ABCDE...) definitely out of bounds for them in a non-supervised manner. Not trying to sound too strict here because I really think you can do whatever with a Plasma, but the "normal use" for every device really is cycling through content, kids don't do that, they just repeat, most panels can take it fine out of break in period but I'm not taking risks. Also, gaming is fine, all my modern gaming screens for years have been plasma some of them not having a TV cable plugged at all - but everyone should leave Pixel Orbiter ON because it's near impossible to notice whilst gaming and it does make a huge difference in retention. Retention goes away anyway, but not even being there is better if that doesn't compromise in anything what I'm doing.
A few hours of sleeping and waking up to static, specially if it's the no channel noise is fine though, the no channel noise is even used in the form of "pixel flipper" to take IR off. It's not a few hours here and there that'll make a difference, if anything it's the whole.
Not trying to tilt you either way mind you, but there really is no TV in the market like this, the best thing you buy won't even come close.
Well the w900a isn't available anymore.
Between the x900a and the x900b.
What's the big difference?