Only turn it on for sports. It is an interpolation software that adds a screen between to make motion smoother on fast moving viewing.So how beneficial is clear motion rate on Samsung tvs? I understand the TV I am getting has a true refresh rate of 60hz, and thats fine. But the TV says that it has a clear motion rate of 120. What does that mean? Is it improving the clarity of each frame? Is each frame being lit by the backlight faster so there is less blurring? How impactful is this to the picture quality? Should I care about this stat at all?
How long should I break in my TV before I get it ISF calibrated?
Also would anyone recommend some cheap speakers I could quickly connect to the TV?
Yea, I had that happen to me when I bought new TVs for other rooms in the house. But just lowering it a lil bit helped a lot. No more eye strain.
cool man, thanks for the advice. the honest reason i havnt lowered it is pretty retarded actually, it looks so attractive at the settings i have it on that it give everyone that "wow" moment when they look at it. kinda vain. lol.
did you calibrate this tv yet? ive been messing around with the settings (ordered a calibration disc that arrives tomorrow) and ive noticed that compared to my samsung LED this tv gives me eye strain. the contrast is so high that i feel like i cant handle it.. i can turn it down but i love the way it looks at high contrast (have it set to 82 after copying CNETs calibration settings). have you had this issue at all?
Do you want surround sound or a sound bar. What shape is the room.
I can't help but to. I'll likely cry the day my Kuro Elite kicks the dust. It's such a beautiful thing, I'd hate to see it ruined. ;-)Man, I played every AC and GTA game for hours and hours on my old Panny plasma and zero burn-in. Don't worry about it.
Of course everyone has their own opinion, but I am clearly in the "plasma" camp. The picture IQ is unmatched. I'd urge you to get the VT60 over the W900A. Not only because Panasonic is pulling the plug on their plasma lines, but also because those sets are gorgoues. The final gen Kuros finally have a contender with Panny's final gen. How poetic, if you think about it.Thank you. I think my constant sense of worrying about IR is what is going to be what ultimately keeps me from ordering the VT60, which I was ready to do yesterday. Now I'm leaning back towards either the W900A (seems to be best in class for LED displays) or the W850A which isn't quite as good but I think I'd like to have the stupid big screen. All of that is tempered by the price and the fact CES is a month away... I don't want to see OLED surprise people with much cheaper sets in a few months making the pricey $2000+ purchase burn a little.
Of course everyone has their own opinion, but I am clearly in the "plasma" camp. The picture IQ is unmatched. I'd urge you to get the VT60 over the W900A. Not only because Panasonic is pulling the plug on their plasma lines, but also because those sets are gorgoues. The final gen Kuros finally have a contender with Panny's final gen. How poetic, if you think about it.
did you calibrate this tv yet? ive been messing around with the settings (ordered a calibration disc that arrives tomorrow) and ive noticed that compared to my samsung LED this tv gives me eye strain. the contrast is so high that i feel like i cant handle it.. i can turn it down but i love the way it looks at high contrast (have it set to 82 after copying CNETs calibration settings). have you had this issue at all?
D-Nice @ CalibrationForums said:North American TC-PxxST50 Reference Settings
*****Note: These settings are designed exclusively to be used on North American TC-PxxST50 displays after completing the Panel Prep procedure listed in post #1. Please do not use these settings unless you have follow post #1 100%*****
Picture
Picture Mode: Custom
Contrast: 76
Brightness: 56
Color: 43
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0
Color Temp: Warm2
Photo Enhancement: Off
C.A.T.S: Off
Video NR: Off
Pro Settings
Colorspace: Normal
W/B High R: -7
W/B High G: 0
W/B High B: -2
W/B Low R: +12
W/B Low G: 0
W/B Low B: +3
Black Extension: 0
Gamma Adjustment: 2.6 (50/55" models) 2.4 (60/65" models)
Panel Brightness: Mid
Contour Emphasis: Off
AGC: 0
HDMI Settings
***Leave all settings in this menu at their default***
Advance Picture
Block NR: Off
Mosquito NR: Off
Motion Smoother: Off
Black Level: Light
3:2 PullDown: Auto
Anyone have any W900A settings? I've been using the ones on cnet but would like to try something else.
I'm dunno man. I had one for a few months, and the autodimming any time there's a very dark image is very distracting. I also found the interface a little clunky and the camera to be substandard. The colours are over-saturated, but that can be fixed with correct callibration. Also, the response for gaming was adequate.
And it must be said that the frame and base are as sexy as they come. Damn fine looking addition to the living room.
But after 3 months of use, the dimming and some occasional slowdown on HD sport was too much for me, so I switched to a sony W90, and have no regrets. Better interface, more natural colours out the box, the blacks are better, with no notable dimming on transition, and as mentioned many times here, the response time for gaming is better than any other LCD/LED on the market.
What model do you have? I am looking to get the Sharp LC-70LE550U but there is no info on it in terms of gaming. Looking at other 70 inchers at DisplayLag but Sharp rate them as Bad.
Forgive me,
I'm looking into getting a VT60 within the next week or so.
Can someone link me to a post that gives me everything I need to know as far as running slides, calibrating, and all of that? I've been lurking in this thread for awhile now and I'm ready to jump but I just want to have all of the information before I go ahead and do it.
Thank you!
Alright, so crunching the numbers, my basement project will cost us a LOT. About 30% more then I had expected.
So I'll be picking away at it, but that means I will be without a rather large screen for a few years. I've been thinking about buying a 75"+ set to use while I pick away at the real HT.
So then, is there such a thing under $8K that's 4K? I haven't been following the TV market like I do projectors.
I opened up my Sony W900A last night... just to make sure it was not cracked or anything. I cant use it until I move back into our house sometime in Jan.
This badboy was sexy!!! Cant wait to hang it on the wall! The 4 pairs of 3D glasses were even nice.
Argh, 7 days until I get mine. The wait is excruciating!I opened up my Sony W900A last night... just to make sure it was not cracked or anything. I cant use it until I move back into our house sometime in Jan.
This badboy was sexy!!! Cant wait to hang it on the wall! The 4 pairs of 3D glasses were even nice.
This exactly.
Also 3D is a pain to calibrate.
I think you'd be best to wait a few weeks and see what gets announced at CES. Although announced =/= immediately available, of course. Sony's got a 4K tv under $8,000 but it's 65". Meanwhile their 84" is $25k. At least in Canada, where we get fucked on tv prices, so I have no idea how much it is in the US.
So if you want 75"+ for under 8 grand, wait for CES. If nothing else, current models might get a bit cheaper, or you could get a good deal around the Super Bowl.
As someone who calibrates TV's on amateur level I really don't understand why D-Nice keeps posting settings. Every TV is completely different in greyscale and CMS so copying calibration settings will never give you better results or give you an ISF calibrated TV.
Between my TX-50ST50E and TX-42ST50E calibrated settings are totally different. My contrast, greyscale and CMS settings are all different in both 2D and 3D.
As someone who calibrates TV's on amateur level I really don't understand why D-Nice keeps posting settings. Every TV is completely different in greyscale and CMS so copying calibration settings will never give you better results or give you an ISF calibrated TV.
Between my TX-50ST50E and TX-42ST50E calibrated settings are totally different. My contrast, greyscale and CMS settings are all different in both 2D and 3D.
Because ISF calibration is too expensive for most and his settings are close enough and certainly better than the presets that come with the set.
Only turn it on for sports. It is an interpolation software that adds a screen between to make motion smoother on fast moving viewing.
$250 for a $1500 TV and up that lasts for 10 years is worth it. You can also get them for free from Best Buy..
I would hope not... ;-)Did you just recommend a calibration by Best Buy?
This exactly.
Also 3D is a pain to calibrate.
how about this, these TV brands make sets ISF calibrated already...
Because ISF calibration is too expensive for most and his settings are close enough and certainly better than the presets that come with the set.
how about this, these TV brands make sets ISF calibrated already...
how about this, these TV brands make sets ISF calibrated already...
Calibration takes room viewing into consideration. would never work to have them precalibrated.
This makes sense, why don't they 'break in' plasmas at the factory, though? Is it just not worth it?
I would hope not... ;-)
Seriously, just buy the Disney WoW disc and at least get yourself in the ball park of a calibrated set.
Nope, I have it as well. It's been awhile since I used it to calibrate my plasma but it has tests for brightness, contrast, colour, etc. I think it's worth it since you can use it on as many TVs as you want to.I hadn't heard of this and I just bought it off Amazon, so I hope you weren't being sarcastic! I'll try it out on my S60, which is currently on day 3 of 6 of running slides.
Did you just recommend a calibration by Best Buy?
I hadn't heard of this and I just bought it off Amazon, so I hope you weren't being sarcastic! I'll try it out on my S60, which is currently on day 3 of 6 of running slides.
doubt they wanna have a ton of plasmas on for 100 hours sucking up valuable space and energy.This makes sense, why don't they 'break in' plasmas at the factory, though? Is it just not worth it?
Anyone have any W900A settings? I've been using the ones on cnet but would like to try something else.
Actually, it's normally one Agent that is ISF certified. Then that one person trains the other Agents. So, really, it just boils down to did you get the one person who was actually certified. I'd rather not take that gamble.The geek squad are ISF qualified and have the proper tools to do a calibration. You can usually get them for free when you buy a TV from Best Buy if you work with them. Any ISF qualified agent from any company will do the same calibration.
Actually, it's normally one Agent that is ISF certified. Then that one person trains the other Agents. So, really, it just boils down to did you get the one person who was actually certified. I'd rather not take that gamble.
Not when I worked for Best Buy. In addition, Geek Squad Agents are scheduled in time blocks. I wouldn't want anyone rushing through my ISF calibration. I had someone from AVSForum come and calibrate mine and he was there for over two hours, meticulously going over everything and even staying for a bit of a movie to check and make sure everything was a-okay.They all have to go to ISF certification class.
Nope, I have it as well. It's been awhile since I used it to calibrate my plasma but it has tests for brightness, contrast, colour, etc. I think it's worth it since you can use it on as many TVs as you want to.
The geek squad are ISF qualified and have the proper tools to do a calibration. You can usually get them for free when you buy a TV from Best Buy if you work with them. Any ISF qualified agent from any company will do the same calibration.
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