Plasma, LCD, OLED, LED, best tv for next gen

How long should I break in my TV before I get it ISF calibrated?

Also would anyone recommend some cheap speakers I could quickly connect to the TV?
 
So how beneficial is clear motion rate on Samsung tvs? I understand the TV I am getting has a true refresh rate of 60hz, and thats fine. But the TV says that it has a clear motion rate of 120. What does that mean? Is it improving the clarity of each frame? Is each frame being lit by the backlight faster so there is less blurring? How impactful is this to the picture quality? Should I care about this stat at all?
Only turn it on for sports. It is an interpolation software that adds a screen between to make motion smoother on fast moving viewing.

How long should I break in my TV before I get it ISF calibrated?

Also would anyone recommend some cheap speakers I could quickly connect to the TV?

Plasma - 100 hour slides - 150 hour regular viewing

LCD/LED - 100-150 hours of regular viewing.

Do you want surround sound or a sound bar. What shape is the room.
 
Yea, I had that happen to me when I bought new TVs for other rooms in the house. But just lowering it a lil bit helped a lot. No more eye strain.

cool man, thanks for the advice. the honest reason i havnt lowered it is pretty retarded actually, it looks so attractive at the settings i have it on that it give everyone that "wow" moment when they look at it. kinda vain. lol.
 
cool man, thanks for the advice. the honest reason i havnt lowered it is pretty retarded actually, it looks so attractive at the settings i have it on that it give everyone that "wow" moment when they look at it. kinda vain. lol.

Yea, it looks a lil too dim when you lower it at first but your eyes will adjust and it won't look dim anymore. The dang torch mode outta the box can mess with ya. XD
 
did you calibrate this tv yet? ive been messing around with the settings (ordered a calibration disc that arrives tomorrow) and ive noticed that compared to my samsung LED this tv gives me eye strain. the contrast is so high that i feel like i cant handle it.. i can turn it down but i love the way it looks at high contrast (have it set to 82 after copying CNETs calibration settings). have you had this issue at all?

Do not use CNETs calibrations they are not very good. Try looking at avsforums with your model there is usually a settings thread for the TV or a owners thread with settings from people who have got ISF calibration.
 
Man, I played every AC and GTA game for hours and hours on my old Panny plasma and zero burn-in. Don't worry about it.
I can't help but to. I'll likely cry the day my Kuro Elite kicks the dust. It's such a beautiful thing, I'd hate to see it ruined. ;-)

Thank you. I think my constant sense of worrying about IR is what is going to be what ultimately keeps me from ordering the VT60, which I was ready to do yesterday. Now I'm leaning back towards either the W900A (seems to be best in class for LED displays) or the W850A which isn't quite as good but I think I'd like to have the stupid big screen. All of that is tempered by the price and the fact CES is a month away... I don't want to see OLED surprise people with much cheaper sets in a few months making the pricey $2000+ purchase burn a little.
Of course everyone has their own opinion, but I am clearly in the "plasma" camp. The picture IQ is unmatched. I'd urge you to get the VT60 over the W900A. Not only because Panasonic is pulling the plug on their plasma lines, but also because those sets are gorgoues. The final gen Kuros finally have a contender with Panny's final gen. How poetic, if you think about it.
 
Of course everyone has their own opinion, but I am clearly in the "plasma" camp. The picture IQ is unmatched. I'd urge you to get the VT60 over the W900A. Not only because Panasonic is pulling the plug on their plasma lines, but also because those sets are gorgoues. The final gen Kuros finally have a contender with Panny's final gen. How poetic, if you think about it.

I was so, so ready to. Still on the fence because of how much I know I'd be worrying about playing too long or a static HUD element vs. how great people say it is. If I opted for the VT60 I'd go for a super long break-in period of 400 hours (the highest I've seen mentioned) just for the added peace of mind. Seeing some people post pictures here of their Panny plasma with a collection of consoles underneath makes me feel better about the idea of buying one, silly as that might sound.

Once again thank you (and others who have chimed in) for the feedback. Posts like this get me so close to just up and ordering one. Hurgh.
 
Mistakenly said my ST50 was a 65 inch, it's 60 and I updated my post :)


did you calibrate this tv yet? ive been messing around with the settings (ordered a calibration disc that arrives tomorrow) and ive noticed that compared to my samsung LED this tv gives me eye strain. the contrast is so high that i feel like i cant handle it.. i can turn it down but i love the way it looks at high contrast (have it set to 82 after copying CNETs calibration settings). have you had this issue at all?

Yes, I used D-nice's settings from HighDefJunkies/CalibrationForums and the only issue we've run into is with really late night viewing (in pitch black room) the brightness can be too much and hurt our eyes, so we occasionally knock it down to about 20. Contrast at 87 is too high and once you break the panel in with slides (like I did for the recommended 100 hours), the D-Nice settings will really blow you away - there is also a separate batch of settings for using immediately out of the box and before breaking in, which you can find at the link above.

D-Nice @ CalibrationForums said:
North American TC-PxxST50 Reference Settings

*****Note: These settings are designed exclusively to be used on North American TC-PxxST50 displays after completing the Panel Prep procedure listed in post #1. Please do not use these settings unless you have follow post #1 100%*****

Picture
Picture Mode: Custom
Contrast: 76
Brightness: 56
Color: 43
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0
Color Temp: Warm2
Photo Enhancement: Off
C.A.T.S: Off
Video NR: Off


Pro Settings
Colorspace: Normal

W/B High R: -7
W/B High G: 0
W/B High B: -2
W/B Low R: +12
W/B Low G: 0
W/B Low B: +3

Black Extension: 0
Gamma Adjustment: 2.6 (50/55" models) 2.4 (60/65" models)
Panel Brightness: Mid
Contour Emphasis: Off
AGC: 0

HDMI Settings
***Leave all settings in this menu at their default***


Advance Picture
Block NR: Off
Mosquito NR: Off
Motion Smoother: Off
Black Level: Light
3:2 PullDown: Auto
 
I'm dunno man. I had one for a few months, and the autodimming any time there's a very dark image is very distracting. I also found the interface a little clunky and the camera to be substandard. The colours are over-saturated, but that can be fixed with correct callibration. Also, the response for gaming was adequate.

And it must be said that the frame and base are as sexy as they come. Damn fine looking addition to the living room.

But after 3 months of use, the dimming and some occasional slowdown on HD sport was too much for me, so I switched to a sony W90, and have no regrets. Better interface, more natural colours out the box, the blacks are better, with no notable dimming on transition, and as mentioned many times here, the response time for gaming is better than any other LCD/LED on the market.

That is odd as I just turn auto-dimming off. Interface is pretty smooth (and remote is fantastic) as these types of interfaces go but I don't really use it much.
 
What model do you have? I am looking to get the Sharp LC-70LE550U but there is no info on it in terms of gaming. Looking at other 70 inchers at DisplayLag but Sharp rate them as Bad.

That's the model I have. I haven't noticed any discernible lag issues. If you can find it cheap I would highly recommend it.
 
Having a hard time with getting feedback, but once again banding.
Is this a TV defect or are shadows supposed to look like rings of shades. Would a different panel look better?

Again the model is UN55FH6003F.
We got it on a whim during Black Friday and another problem is no output.
Even though I wouldn't be able to use one to chat on the One, it'd be nice to at least use the output from the TV and play silently.
 
Alright, so crunching the numbers, my basement project will cost us a LOT. About 30% more then I had expected.

So I'll be picking away at it, but that means I will be without a rather large screen for a few years. I've been thinking about buying a 75"+ set to use while I pick away at the real HT.

So then, is there such a thing under $8K that's 4K? I haven't been following the TV market like I do projectors.
 
Forgive me,

I'm looking into getting a VT60 within the next week or so.

Can someone link me to a post that gives me everything I need to know as far as running slides, calibrating, and all of that? I've been lurking in this thread for awhile now and I'm ready to jump but I just want to have all of the information before I go ahead and do it.

Thank you!
 
Forgive me,

I'm looking into getting a VT60 within the next week or so.

Can someone link me to a post that gives me everything I need to know as far as running slides, calibrating, and all of that? I've been lurking in this thread for awhile now and I'm ready to jump but I just want to have all of the information before I go ahead and do it.

Thank you!

Here
 
Alright, so crunching the numbers, my basement project will cost us a LOT. About 30% more then I had expected.

So I'll be picking away at it, but that means I will be without a rather large screen for a few years. I've been thinking about buying a 75"+ set to use while I pick away at the real HT.

So then, is there such a thing under $8K that's 4K? I haven't been following the TV market like I do projectors.

I think you'd be best to wait a few weeks and see what gets announced at CES. Although announced =/= immediately available, of course. Sony's got a 4K tv under $8,000 but it's 65". Meanwhile their 84" is $25k. At least in Canada, where we get fucked on tv prices, so I have no idea how much it is in the US.

So if you want 75"+ for under 8 grand, wait for CES. If nothing else, current models might get a bit cheaper, or you could get a good deal around the Super Bowl.
 
As someone who calibrates TV's on amateur level I really don't understand why D-Nice keeps posting settings. Every TV is completely different in greyscale and CMS so copying calibration settings will never give you better results or give you an ISF calibrated TV.

Between my TX-50ST50E and TX-42ST50E calibrated settings are totally different. My contrast, greyscale and CMS settings are all different in both 2D and 3D.
 
I opened up my Sony W900A last night... just to make sure it was not cracked or anything. I cant use it until I move back into our house sometime in Jan.

This badboy was sexy!!! Cant wait to hang it on the wall! The 4 pairs of 3D glasses were even nice.
 
I opened up my Sony W900A last night... just to make sure it was not cracked or anything. I cant use it until I move back into our house sometime in Jan.

This badboy was sexy!!! Cant wait to hang it on the wall! The 4 pairs of 3D glasses were even nice.

This exactly.

Also 3D is a pain to calibrate.
 
I opened up my Sony W900A last night... just to make sure it was not cracked or anything. I cant use it until I move back into our house sometime in Jan.

This badboy was sexy!!! Cant wait to hang it on the wall! The 4 pairs of 3D glasses were even nice.
Argh, 7 days until I get mine. The wait is excruciating!
 
I think you'd be best to wait a few weeks and see what gets announced at CES. Although announced =/= immediately available, of course. Sony's got a 4K tv under $8,000 but it's 65". Meanwhile their 84" is $25k. At least in Canada, where we get fucked on tv prices, so I have no idea how much it is in the US.

So if you want 75"+ for under 8 grand, wait for CES. If nothing else, current models might get a bit cheaper, or you could get a good deal around the Super Bowl.

I'm Canadian Gaf as well! Oh man, do we pay extra for our gagets.

Yeah I figured as much, but I wanted to see if I was missing anything.

I'm not in a rush, since it's still VERY new tech.

I have a ceiling that I'm willing to pay, so I'm just trying to get the most out of my dollars. I might even wait a year depending on CES.

Thanks for thr reply BTW, cheers!
 
As someone who calibrates TV's on amateur level I really don't understand why D-Nice keeps posting settings. Every TV is completely different in greyscale and CMS so copying calibration settings will never give you better results or give you an ISF calibrated TV.

Between my TX-50ST50E and TX-42ST50E calibrated settings are totally different. My contrast, greyscale and CMS settings are all different in both 2D and 3D.

Because ISF calibration is too expensive for most and his settings are close enough and certainly better than the presets that come with the set.
 
As someone who calibrates TV's on amateur level I really don't understand why D-Nice keeps posting settings. Every TV is completely different in greyscale and CMS so copying calibration settings will never give you better results or give you an ISF calibrated TV.

Between my TX-50ST50E and TX-42ST50E calibrated settings are totally different. My contrast, greyscale and CMS settings are all different in both 2D and 3D.

I think he understands his market very well, i.e. those who are willing to pay for a proper calibration, but also cares enough about image quality that he would rather put up settings for those who are interested but don't want to/are unable to pay, than have them watch in out of the box torch mode.

But that's just a guess.
 
Because ISF calibration is too expensive for most and his settings are close enough and certainly better than the presets that come with the set.

$250 for a $1500 TV and up that lasts for 10 years is worth it. You can also get them for free from Best Buy..
 
Ultimately went with the W900A. I'm still living in apartments/condos and will be for a few more years, so the thought of having to move a 65 inch plasma scared me off combined with my apprehension about IR concerns (i.e. having to think about what I'm playing or watching and for how long). Although 55 inches is still tremendous in size I feel a little better about owning that than a bigger option until I'm a homeowner or at least more settled, so a few years from now perhaps a 65 inch OLED set will be in what I consider the affordable range.

Went to look at it in person and found it a far better picture than it's cheaper, bigger R550 brother and was impressed with the picture. Will have it Wednesday morning and I'm pretty excited.
 
This exactly.

Also 3D is a pain to calibrate.

It is a pain. I picked up a cheap pair of Panasonic RF glasses with one busted lens for like 8 dollars for calibration. The side that I use for teh sensor still works so it works out for what I need.

Spears and Muncil 2nd edition has 3D patterns though so that is good. Makes it a little easier.
 
Because ISF calibration is too expensive for most and his settings are close enough and certainly better than the presets that come with the set.

Not really. Settings can drift as much as 20% for display to display. Watching a display in THX mode would be better technically then copying someones settings. You could get lucky and it can be damn close others could be to warm or blu, etc.

One guy I gave mine to used them for a short period and later got his set calibrated my settings were almost on point when looking at the calibration report, anoter guy said they were 2 green on his.So really hit and miss

how about this, these TV brands make sets ISF calibrated already...

Calibration takes room viewing into consideration. would never work to have them precalibrated.
 
how about this, these TV brands make sets ISF calibrated already...

That's not really possible since a proper full calibration takes into account not only any affects of the full equipment chain from source to display but also your viewing environment. Couple that with the manufacturing realities of trying to pump out as many panels as quickly as possible, and it's simply not feasible.

Built in THX/ISF modes are about the closest they will get, but they are no replacement for a proper full calibration by a professional.
 
This makes sense, why don't they 'break in' plasmas at the factory, though? Is it just not worth it?

I would assume production reasons and cost. I mean I'm sure they run them for QC purposes but to have a display sit there for 150 hours+ before packaging and shipping is must $ being lost. Even them the display may still sit in a warehouse for who knows how long until it is purchased.
 
I would hope not... ;-)

Seriously, just buy the Disney WoW disc and at least get yourself in the ball park of a calibrated set.

I hadn't heard of this and I just bought it off Amazon, so I hope you weren't being sarcastic! I'll try it out on my S60, which is currently on day 3 of 6 of running slides.
 
I hadn't heard of this and I just bought it off Amazon, so I hope you weren't being sarcastic! I'll try it out on my S60, which is currently on day 3 of 6 of running slides.
Nope, I have it as well. It's been awhile since I used it to calibrate my plasma but it has tests for brightness, contrast, colour, etc. I think it's worth it since you can use it on as many TVs as you want to.
 
Did you just recommend a calibration by Best Buy?

The geek squad are ISF qualified and have the proper tools to do a calibration. You can usually get them for free when you buy a TV from Best Buy if you work with them. Any ISF qualified agent from any company will do the same calibration.

I hadn't heard of this and I just bought it off Amazon, so I hope you weren't being sarcastic! I'll try it out on my S60, which is currently on day 3 of 6 of running slides.

There is a code on disney movies to do a simple WoW calibration as well. Also on Sony discs. I know Ratatouille has it in the extra features.

On Sony discs you press 7669 and then ENTER on your remote. There should be a pamphlet in the case explaining it.
 
The geek squad are ISF qualified and have the proper tools to do a calibration. You can usually get them for free when you buy a TV from Best Buy if you work with them. Any ISF qualified agent from any company will do the same calibration.
Actually, it's normally one Agent that is ISF certified. Then that one person trains the other Agents. So, really, it just boils down to did you get the one person who was actually certified. I'd rather not take that gamble.
 
Actually, it's normally one Agent that is ISF certified. Then that one person trains the other Agents. So, really, it just boils down to did you get the one person who was actually certified. I'd rather not take that gamble.

They all have to go to ISF certification class.
 
They all have to go to ISF certification class.
Not when I worked for Best Buy. In addition, Geek Squad Agents are scheduled in time blocks. I wouldn't want anyone rushing through my ISF calibration. I had someone from AVSForum come and calibrate mine and he was there for over two hours, meticulously going over everything and even staying for a bit of a movie to check and make sure everything was a-okay.
 
Nope, I have it as well. It's been awhile since I used it to calibrate my plasma but it has tests for brightness, contrast, colour, etc. I think it's worth it since you can use it on as many TVs as you want to.

The WoW disc has teh best pattern I have ever used for contrast and brightness settings in advanced with the stars. I use them for ever display I calibrate.

The geek squad are ISF qualified and have the proper tools to do a calibration. You can usually get them for free when you buy a TV from Best Buy if you work with them. Any ISF qualified agent from any company will do the same calibration.
.

They are limited to a time though. When I do a calibration It takes at least 2-3 hours. Setting up equipment and getting everything in place alone takes time in itself. they are in and out within an hour hour in a half. Not enough time to do a proper calibration. I have redone one someones calibration before that had one done by best buy. Which I found funny because they did it in movie mode which is fine if it doesn't have ISF controls. When I redid it I actually turned on CALday and CALnight (samsung). When I do peoples panasonics I even give them the XML file of their calibration since I have a controlcal professional license that supports everything from VT25 to current and also elites. I keep them on file incase I have to go back and do it to upload it again etc. Even though I lock the settings.

Also a big difference is ideally the calibration will have some reference material to test afterwards. I bring some with me at least and I will actually take the time to explain to you what I'm doing and what each control is actually there for as well as explain the report as well.

To me it's overall touches like that that make a difference. Something I do not believe you get with best buy
 
Calibration is nice and all and for $200+ is might be worth it until you realize that the latest firmware update has some random line like "Improves picture quality". Calibration gone bye-bye. :p
 
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