Unknown Soldier
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1.Feels a bit too big
The ladies know there's no such thing as "too big".
2.Touchwiz looks bad but don't want to root until the warranty is up and not sure about s-pen support on custom firmware
The custom firmware needs to use the Touchwiz framework to have S-Pen support so you can take S-Notes while on your S-Calls. So basically it's going to be Touchwiz, the best they can do is remove miscellaneous apps you might consider bloat.
3.slow updates
If you absolutely need the latest version of Android the day it's released, your only option is Nexus really.