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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|

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S

Shambles

Member
WyndhamPrice said:
OKAY SO

I think my problem is RAM related. The motherboard in my above post has a specific list of compatibility, the RAM I bought was not on that list.

Whoever put together last month's ~$700 budget build needs to fact check their shit (I do to, but I trusted GAF more because it seems like something that wouldn't be overlooked).
Click to expand...

Memory compatability lists mean very little. Either RAM will work or it won't. If you think your memory is faulty run memtest to check for errors. If you can't even make it to the boot menu consult your motherboard manual for the meaning of any beeps that you hear. Make sure you have both the 24PIN and 4/8PIN power connectors attached on the motherboard.
 
W

whatsinaname

Member
WyndhamPrice said:
OKAY SO

I think my problem is RAM related. The motherboard in my above post has a specific list of compatibility, the RAM I bought was not on that list.

Whoever put together last month's ~$700 budget build needs to fact check their shit (I do to, but I trusted GAF more because it seems like something that wouldn't be overlooked).
Click to expand...


RAM compatibility lists are mostly pointless. I don't think that is your issue.

Did you make all power connections?
Did you make the power connections to your GPU?

Try to start the system with the bare minimum of connections made. (Unplug all HDDs, DVD Drives, etc).

Try to start the system with one stick of RAM. (If it doesn't, put the stick in a different slot. If that doesn't work, try it with another stick.)
 
M

MisterAnderson

Member
I'm about to attempt to install my V6 GT Coolermaster cooler. I'm supposed to peel off a clear thingy underneath the heatsink where it's going to contact the CPU. I bought Arctic Silver 5 thermal compound, is there going to be some kind of already applied thermal tape stuff underneath that adhesive that I need to clean off?

Is there anything I should know about the best way to apply the thermal compound? I was going to go for a thin vertical line.
 
X

XenoRaven

Member
So, it seems when my computer goes into sleep mode, is turned off, or restarted, all of the processes do not return normally. Basically, it comes back from being off or in sleep and the monitor never receives a signal, and for some reason the keyboard isn't receiving power as the LEDs don't light up. Now I can turn it off and on and sometimes it seems to work whereas other times (most times) it doesn't. Anyone have any ideas what this is?
 
V

vocab

Member
It's very rare for certain ram to not work on any given mobo. Hell, most Bios updates expand the ram compatibility after release.
 
mclaren777

mclaren777

Member
My mom's computer is slower than it rightfully should be. It's old and well past its freshness date, but I decided to run some tests and everything checks out for the CPU/RAM/etc. My only concern was this HDD data. Does it look suspicious to anyone?

s6n5t.png


t35Yt.png


9ulit.png


Qtyfy.png
 
W

whatsinaname

Member
Has anyone else disabled System Restore and Volume Shadow Copy in Windows 7? Am thinking of doing that to try to recover 4-5 GB of space on my OS drive.

Edit: So I decided not to turn off System Restore. I just changed the HDD size that can be used by VSS/System Restore to the minimum. Only the latest restore points/file versions will be kept. I also turned off hibernate. My startup times are small enough with my SSD that I don't use hibernate anymore. This freed up about 7 GB on my C: drive. Space for one more game to be installed!
 
R

Raistlin

Post Count: 9999
My current order includes:


Code: 
      [b]OS[/b] : Microsoft Windows 7 (Ultimate 64-bit)
  
     [b]CPU[/b] : Intel i7 2600k

     [b]RAM[/b] : G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB, DDR3 1600, Cas: 7, Timing: 7-8-7-24)

    [b]MoBo[/b] : Intel DP67BG  

    [b]Case[/b] :  
             [b]Case[/b]      : Cooler Master HAF X            
             [b]Cooling[/b]   : Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus (CPU heat pipe / fan)
             [b]PSU[/b]       : Corsair 850W (Professional Series AX850)

 [b]Display[/b] : NEC 23" 1080p IPS (EA231WMi-BK) 

 [b]Optical[/b] : LITE-ON Blu-ray Disc Combo (iHES208-08 LightScribe) 
   [b]Drive[/b]  

[b]Storage*[/b] :       
             [b]SSD[/b]       : Intel X25-M G2 (80GB) 
             [b]HDD[/b]       : 4 x SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 (HD502HJ 500GB 7200 RPM)
         
     [b]I/O[/b] :          
             [B]SATA[/b]      : Vantec 4+1 SATA II 300 and PATA PCI-E 
             [b]Converter[/b] : Silverstone 3.5" to 2 X 2.5" Bay Converter (SDP08)       
             [b]Keyboard[/b]  : Kinesis Freestyle Solo Keyboard (20" separation model + VIP accessory kit)
                       : Kinesis Low-Force Numeric Keypad
             [b]Mouse[/b]     : Logitech MX 518 High Performance Optical Gaming Mouse (Metal)

[b]Speakers[/b] : Tanoy Reveal (6.5" Nearfield Active Monitors)


* SSD sys drive, HDD's in RAID 10 array

The only remaining piece required in the short-term is a GPU. I'm currently waiting on the release of the PowerColor PCS++ 6950 Dual BIOS card.



Expected upgrades when financially available:
  • Crossfire a second PowerColor PCS++
  • 2 x NEC 1080p IPS monitors to complete 5760 x 1080 Eyefinity
  • LITE-ON Dual-Layer Blu-Ray Burner (LightScribe)

As/if needed:
  • 2 x 4GB DIMMs (16GB total maintaining dual channel throughput)
  • Sound card for recording/DAW usage
  • Audio DSP Card if found at good price (uad-1 or uad2?)
 
V

vazel

Banned
mclaren777 said:
My mom's computer is slower than it rightfully should be. It's old and well past its freshness date, but I decided to run some tests and everything checks out for the CPU/RAM/etc. My only concern was this HDD data. Does it look suspicious to anyone?

[IMG*]http://i.imgur.com/s6n5t.png[/IMG]

[IMG*]http://i.imgur.com/t35Yt.png[/IMG]

[IMG*]http://i.imgur.com/9ulit.png[/IMG]

[IMG*]http://i.imgur.com/Qtyfy.png[/IMG]
Click to expand...
That's normal for an old 80GB drive. I get similar results on my two 80GB drives.
 
K

keeblerdrow

Member
Shalashaska161 said:
So I'm in the market for a new videocard, and I've narrowed it down to either a Radeon 6970 or a GTX 570. Any advice on which one I should pick?
Click to expand...


What system specs are you planning on bottlenecking them with?
:p
 
S

Shalashaska161

Member
keeblerdrow said:
What system specs are you planning on bottlenecking them with?
:p
Click to expand...
The rest of my system is pretty solid, with an overclocked i7 920, 6 Gigs ram, and a SSD which I added in last year. I just kinda cheeped out on the graphics card when I originally bought the machine. Are these new cards that much faster than what I have?
 
S

Shalashaska161

Member
Fredescu said:
I think that was just a tongue in cheek way of saying you can't go wrong with either one.
Click to expand...
Haha and with that I think it's time for bed. Thanks for the help, think I'll probably go with the ATI card. They've treated me well in the past.
 
K

keeblerdrow

Member
Shalashaska161 said:
The rest of my system is pretty solid, with an overclocked i7 920, 6 Gigs ram, and a SSD which I added in last year. I just kinda cheeped out on the graphics card when I originally bought the machine. Are these new cards that much faster than what I have?
Click to expand...


I don't know. Which one do you have?
 
M

MisterAnderson

Member
Alright awesome. After installing the V6 GT I'm idling 28-31 degrees C, and with Prime95 running I'm hovering around 51-56 degrees C (not overclocked yet). With the stock intel CPU fan I was idling around 40-45 and with Prime95 running it was going around 80 degrees.

The fan is massive though, it literally BARELY fit into the case, it has a few millimeters of clearance on the side panel and I had to take off the side fan for it to fit.
 
M

Mr Nightman

Banned
MisterAnderson said:
Alright awesome. After installing the V6 GT I'm idling 28-31 degrees C, and with Prime95 running I'm hovering around 51-56 degrees C (not overclocked yet). With the stock intel CPU fan I was idling around 40-45 and with Prime95 running it was going around 80 degrees.
Click to expand...
Aftermarket coolers are great, my stock cooler had my phenom 2 quad at 3ghz pushing 70 idle, I down clocked my cpu to 2GHZ until my cooler master hyper cooler came in, lol. Idles around 35 or so and hits 50 under load.
 
M

Mr Nightman

Banned
Smokey said:
been out the loop for a week or so...and...sandy bridge is being recalled?

wtf?!
Click to expand...
Its not the processors at fault, its an underlying problem with the sandy bridge chipset itself, in which communication with the sata 3gb/s ports can slowly degrade and eventually fail. They are working to release fixed motherboards soon
 
A

antonz

Member
Think there is any hope we will see sandy bridge back on the market before April? So depressed now. Getting a thousand bucks from the IRS in like 2 weeks and want to upgrade the PC but this terrible news now :/
 
R

Raistlin

Post Count: 9999
Just remember you can most definitely use too much. Thermal paste is meant to fill submicroscopic fissures (or at most machining marks) on the processor and sink. It isn't peanut butter.
 
S

Shambles

Member
Got my GSkill kit of 2x4GB in the mail today. One stick is faulty *yarg*. What's the cheapest way to ship in Canada for RMAs?
 
M

MisterAnderson

Member
So I've got my system overclocked to 3.6 Ghz currently (i7 920 Bloomfield) running at 60-67 degrees C using IntelBurnTest. How do I know if I have the voltages at the best possible settings? I passed the 5 passes using IntelBurnTest, does that mean it's stable enough or should I be running Prime95 like over night or something?

Also does anyone have any tips to overclocking a Radeon 4890 HD? Should I just use the CCC? How much is too much?
 
M

mrklaw

MrArseFace
Accessories! Forgot about them.

What wireless mouse should I get? I prefer logitech ones almost solely because of the clicky mouse wheel (I *hate* the MS smooth wheel. eww) Doesn't really need more than the basic controls (side buttons for back/forward in browser are nice but not essential), but it'd be good if it was flexible about what surface its on, as it'll be used in the spare room and won't have a dedicated desk. Are the Logitech 'Darkfield' models good? I like the look and feel of the MX anywhere.

I think I'm going to use my mac bluetooth keyboard for a while, but if it starts to annoy me (the cursors especially are very small and close together), then it'd be good to get recommendations for a wireless keyboard. Compact is preferred

cheapest place to get a wireless 360 pad? Do I need the special 360 pad for windows with the receiver, or can I buy a receiver separately and a normal wireless 360 pad?
 
M

mrklaw

MrArseFace
Raistlin said:
Expected upgrades when financially available:
  • Crossfire a second PowerColor PCS++
  • 2 x NEC 1080p IPS monitors to complete 5760 x 1080 Eyefinity
  • LITE-ON Dual-Layer Blu-Ray Burner (LightScribe)
Click to expand...


How does crossfire handle eyefinity? Two cards, three monitors means one card will be doing twice as much work as the other?
 
K

knitoe

Member
MisterAnderson said:
So I've got my system overclocked to 3.6 Ghz currently (i7 920 Bloomfield) running at 60-67 degrees C using IntelBurnTest. How do I know if I have the voltages at the best possible settings? I passed the 5 passes using IntelBurnTest, does that mean it's stable enough or should I be running Prime95 like over night or something?

Also does anyone have any tips to overclocking a Radeon 4890 HD? Should I just use the CCC? How much is too much?
Click to expand...
For IBT, run max with 20 pass, but instead just run Prime95 small fffs for a few hours.
 
M

mrklaw

MrArseFace
My motherboard (ASUS P8P67) has built in bluetooth. will it be possible for me to access the BIOS using a bluetooth keyboard or will I need to use a USB keyboard? I don't have one at home so I'd need to borrow my work one if necessary
 
R

rabhw

Member
Can anyone recommend a good high-CFM low-dBA case fan? To be mounted on the side panel as an exhaust to pull heat away from my video cards.

Currently I have a Scythe Kaze-Maru - 1900 RPM - 104CFM - 41dBA. But it's too damn loud for me.

I also have another Scythe Kaze-Maru - 500 RPM - 29CFM - 11dBA. While quiet, it isn't exactly moving a lot of air.

Anyone have a better fan or good compromise they can suggest?
 
lowrider007

lowrider007

Licorice-flavoured booze?
Just ordered a Gigabyte GeForce GTX 560Ti SUPER OC,

- Core Clock: 1000MHz
- Memory: 1024MB GDDR5
- Memory Clock: 4580MHz (Effective)
- Memory Interface: 256-Bit
- Processing Cores: 384
- Shader Clock: 2000MHz

Well chuffed, I was temped to grab a GTX 570 but I thought I'd rather have the above, hopefully it should match a 570 but at a lower wattage and better cooling to boot.
 
T

TheExodu5

Banned
Yeah that overclocked Gigabyte card looked tempting. User the overclocked cards are a waste, but apparently it has specially picked chips and additional overclocking potential. 1000MHz is a very hefty overclock.
 
S

Salaadin

Member
Gloomfire said:
No. Should I?
Click to expand...

When I first built, I was getting an odd buzz from my mobo speaker right after post. It was one of the fan speed warnings. That might be your issue too. Options to turn them on/off should be in the BIOS somewhere.
 
T

TouchMyBox

Member
So I just ordered a set of these babies. Couldn't say no to a $60 discount.

http://ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=57799&vpn=CA-SP211NA&manufacture=Corsair&promoid=1285

To anyone who knows more than my just intermediate level of soundcard knowledge, I'm assuming my m-audio firewire 410 soundcard would be enough to unleash the potential of these bad boys? My traditional soundcard, the Auzentech X-Fi forte, I think got lost in the mail when I RMAed it. :\
 
T

TheExodu5

Banned
rabhw said:
Can anyone recommend a good high-CFM low-dBA case fan? To be mounted on the side panel as an exhaust to pull heat away from my video cards.

Currently I have a Scythe Kaze-Maru - 1900 RPM - 104CFM - 41dBA. But it's too damn loud for me.

I also have another Scythe Kaze-Maru - 500 RPM - 29CFM - 11dBA. While quiet, it isn't exactly moving a lot of air.

Anyone have a better fan or good compromise they can suggest?
Click to expand...
There is honestly no magical fan out there. You're going to compromise airflow for quietness. Personally, I think 800RPM is the sweetspot for 120mm case fans. For 200mm case fans, I'd say it's around 450RPM.

The Thermalright 120mm fans appear to be rebranded Scythe SFlex at a slightly lower cost. 800/1000/1200 RPM Thermalright fans would be my recommendation. As an added bonus, they have high static pressure which makes them great on heatsinks like te Thermalright Ultra 120.
 
N

n0n44m

Member
rabhw said:
Can anyone recommend a good high-CFM low-dBA case fan? To be mounted on the side panel as an exhaust to pull heat away from my video cards.

Currently I have a Scythe Kaze-Maru - 1900 RPM - 104CFM - 41dBA. But it's too damn loud for me.

I also have another Scythe Kaze-Maru - 500 RPM - 29CFM - 11dBA. While quiet, it isn't exactly moving a lot of air.

Anyone have a better fan or good compromise they can suggest?
Click to expand...

there's no such thing as high CFM low dB, it's high high or low low :D even the most quiet 1500 rpm fans will be more noisy then an average 1000rpm fan (unless the 1000rpm is really really crappy)

but the Scythe Gentle Typhoon series generally have the lowest dB per CFM, sounding really smooth as well ... I believe they have 800/1200/1500/1850 rpm models

but have you tried the 500rpm model? I have a cheap YateLoon fan in my sidepanel to exhaust my Nvidia GTX480 heat, it runs 1200 rpm on 12V and around 600 I guess on 5V, basically the 5V is enough unless I'm running Furmark ;)
 
R

Raistlin

Post Count: 9999
mrklaw said:
How does crossfire handle eyefinity? Two cards, three monitors means one card will be doing twice as much work as the other?
Click to expand...

I don't know all the details of their implementation, but it is not what you think. To my knowledge the distribution of processing is pretty symmetrical (other than the AA mode maybe?). If I had to guess, I suspect the card pushing the two screens just has a bit of overhead as far as merging and pushing a 2 screen framebuffer?

Different CrossFire Modes

ATI CrossFire can be set to function in different modes.
  • Alternate Frame Rendering - Just like with SLI's Alternate Frame Rendering mode, each frame is rendered by each GPU one after the other. For example, the first GPU will render all the even frames while the second GPU will render all the odd frames.
  • Supertiling Mode - Supertiling works by dividing the screen/frame into small squares of pixels and spreading them evenly to each GPU for processing.
  • Scissor Mode - In scissor mode the frame is split up into two pieces, depending on rendering effort. The two GPUs are given each half of the frame for processing.
  • Antialiasing - Same as the SLI antialiasing mode, this increases the quality of the image instead of the rendering speed. You can enable up to 14x of antialiasing.
Click to expand...




Regarding your quest for mice, do you need to go wireless? I don't want to open the latency, etc. can-of-worms regarding wired versus wireless, but I'll simply say that including wired will dramatically open your options as well as get you lower prices. Unless you're doing something like a HTPC build, I don't see the point of wireless to begin with.

I actually spent several hours last week looking for wireless options and ended up with the wired one listed up a few posts. $34.99 and crazy gaming performance.
 
mclaren777

mclaren777

Member
I decided to try my first-ever stress test today using Prime95. My 2600K is stock and I'm rather pleased with the cooling of my HSF/case. The top temperature values are with my manually-controlled case fans at their lowest speed, which is how they are always set. I sped them up later in the test to see the results. Not bad, but not great either.


icer4a.png


ibZSH4.png


ibZUPC.png
 
D

Deadly Monk

Banned
I updated my BIOS on my Asus motherboard (it has an AM2 slot) so it can use an AM3 cpu. The newest bios update says they are now compatible with AM3s but only if they're quad core, not 6 cores.

My motherboard has enough power to run the new CPU. The CPU is an AMD Phenom II X4 960. I put it in, everything booted up, I did the Windows index....but it's saying it's only 803mhz...which is basically a fourth of what the cpu really is (it's supposed to be 3.4 ghz). It almost feels like it's only reading one "core". I need help! Everything feels like it's even running slower than my old dual core AMD cpu...

My motherboard is an ASUS M2N32-SLI Deluxe Wireless. If you check the ASUS site, the newest BIOS was released a week ago and clearly says supports AM3 as long as it's quad core...
 
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