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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|

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Omiee

Member
i have a question, everything in my pc is doing what it should now so im realy happy i just have one thing that i have to fix.

before buying the SSD i had 2 1TB HDD's one was named C and one E
but after i installed the SSD which is now called C, C became E and E is not displayed in my computer any more?
how do i fix this?
 

ithorien

Member
Omiee said:
i have a question, everything in my pc is doing what it should now so im realy happy i just have one thing that i have to fix.

before buying the SSD i had 2 1TB HDD's one was named C and one E
but after i installed the SSD which is now called C, C became E and E is not displayed in my computer any more?
how do i fix this?

Right click on Computer, go to "Manage". Select "Disk Management" under "Storage". Right click the disk in question (it should have no letter assigned), and click on "Change Drive Letter and Paths". Click "Change", change to an available letter, hit ok, confirm, then hit ok again. Close Computer Management.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Got around to taking some pictures. Please ignore the cable mess on the bottom after hastily installing a Xonar before a LAN event. Haven't got around to cleaning it up :p

AM3 970 @ 4.0 ghz, 4GB Crucial Ballistic Tracer, ASUS 5870, ASUS Crosshair IV, 2x1TB Spinpoint F3s for gaming drive, Vertex 2 90GB for OS, ASUS Xonar, CM Scout, CM Hyper 212+, Corsair HX 650W

21j58xz.jpg


This is my main gaming setup:

2ymy71s.jpg


At nighttime. Put LED lighting along the bottom of my wire rack. Finally, I have defeated glare!

2h6c9yg.jpg
 

Kyaw

Member
Looks like i have the same bigger monitor as yours! :highfive:

I want a new case... even though my Antec 300 is holding out well so far.
 

Corky

Nine out of ten orphans can't tell the difference.
my parts got delayed so I canceled the entire build :[

I've amassed all my strength and am planning to build in the end of the year instead.
680s 7990, etc...

Will the next series of GPU def be 28nm? Not that it would be any difference for someone who is gonna buy a new pc, but still would be nice to rationalize the holding out... D:
 

MedIC86

Member
Okay i need some DDR3 Memory, does anyone know wich brands use micron besides crucial, or is there a better alternative these days?
 

nataku

Member
My Fractal Design Define R3 front power LED header connector is blocked by some piece of metal... almost like they shoved the wire too far into the connector. I can't connect it to the MB at all. Anyone else have this issue? Any way to clear it out?

It's just the power LED, so I could do without it I guess, but I spent $100 on this case to try and avoid issues like this.
 

ithorien

Member
Datwheezy said:
If you are a student/know a student and need a copy of windows for a new pc:

http://www.microsoft.com/student/en/us/windows/buynow/default.aspx

Windows 7 Pro Upgrade for $30.

I know some Universities may have better deals (mine allowed me to get a 32 bit and 64 bit serial for $8 each of Windows 7 Ultimate when it first came out), but others may not so I figured I would share it.

Regular price for student is $64.95, so yea, this is temporarily at $29.99.
 

rocK`

Banned
rocK` said:
Hey guys, need some advice on a build.

Already have:

- Mobo: Asus Sabertooth P67 rev3.0

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131702&Tpk=sabertooth p67

- CPU: i7 2600k

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...9115070&cm_re=i7_2600k-_-19-115-070-_-Product

- RAM: (got it on sale) gskill 16gb ripjaws x series


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...1429&cm_re=gskill_16gb-_-20-231-429-_-Product



------------------------

Looking to get:

- GFX: Asus ENGTX 580

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121429

- Case: HAF 932

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119160

- SSD: OCZ Vertex 2

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227590

- HSF: Hyper 212

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103065


I am aware of that HSF blocking a RAM port and OK with just 8 gb of ram, or even 12gb is obviously ok.

I want to OC the cpu. I may want to SLI in the future (not now).

Thoughts? am I missing anything?

didnt get much feedback. I know I need a PSU/dvd drive, I'm debating whether a 750w is good enough
 

Corky

Nine out of ten orphans can't tell the difference.
rocK` said:
didnt get much feedback. I know I need a PSU/dvd drive, I'm debating whether a 750w is good enough

For the dvddrive just buy a cheap one, does it even matter nowadays?
With regards to the psu, 750W is fine for one gtx 580 but doesn't really leave any headroom if you plan to go SLI in the future.

Things like psu and motherboard are almost always worth it to put out a little bit more cash to get better/higher quality products, seeing as you'd want to upgrade those as little as possible.

Stuff like ram or like storage you can always buy more at a later time.

edit : what I'm trying to say is that if you even have the slightest feeling of wanting to go SLI do yourself a favor and buy a more powerful psu, '(~1000W)

edit 2 : the rest of the build looks bitchin, though I'll ask the standard question when people say they're going 2600k , " Do you plan to use the hyperthreading in any application or are you just going for a gamingrig? " If no, then a 2500k will suffice.

edit 234325 : do you really need that much ram? Because you could save like 100$ by going to "just" 8gb ram for ~100$ instead of those 16gb for twice as much.

edit 34534566 : I'm stupid.... just saw that you already got some of the stuff. Fuck I'm tired :(
 

TheExodu5

Banned
rocK` said:
didnt get much feedback. I know I need a PSU/dvd drive, I'm debating whether a 750w is good enough

FYI, if you can only fit 3 sticks, you're going to want to drop that down to 2, as you'll want your RAM running in dual-channel.
 

knitoe

Member
rocK` said:
didnt get much feedback. I know I need a PSU/dvd drive, I'm debating whether a 750w is good enough
If you plan on going SLI GTX 580, I would look at 900w or higher PSU. It's best to not try and at a PSU's max rating longterm.

And, I would drop Vertex 2 SDD unless it's using 34nm chips because the newer 25nm chips severely lowers write speeds, upto 50%. Look for another Sandforce controller SDD still offering 34nm chips.
 

TheExodu5

Banned
knitoe said:
If you plan on going SLI GTX 580, I would look at 900w or higher PSU. It's best to not try and at a PSU's max rating longterm.

And, I would drop Vertex 2 SDD unless it's using 34nm chips because the newer 25nm chips severely lowers write speeds, upto 50%. Look for another Sandforce controller SDD still offering 34nm chips.

I think the 60GB/120GB drives use the 34nm chips, and the 50GB/100GB drives use the 25nm chips.

edit: though I could be wrong.
 
Datwheezy said:
If you are a student/know a student and need a copy of windows for a new pc:

http://www.microsoft.com/student/en/us/windows/buynow/default.aspx

Windows 7 Pro Upgrade for $30.

I know some Universities may have better deals (mine allowed me to get a 32 bit and 64 bit serial for $8 each of Windows 7 Ultimate when it first came out), but others may not so I figured I would share it.

Thanks for this link, I'm planning on building in May so I think I'm going to buy this right now.

One question though, can you use this (it says Upgrade version) on a brand new computer that doesn't have an OS? Or do you have to have Windows Vista and then upgrade to windows 7? I'm on the checkout screen now but I can't figure out if this is the right thing to buy.
 

evanft

Member
Whoa there, I've been reading around online and it looks like the gtx 570, in addition to not being able to bitstream DTS-HD, it doesn't play very well with receivers. Since this build is going to be in an entertainment system, I guess I should go with a 6970 or unlocked 6950.

So, did they ever revise the 6950 to remove the ability to unlock?
 

Pocks

Member
My mom is looking for a small upgrade to allow her to stream TV & movies without a hitch. Her setup from 2004/2005 isn't cutting it, as the processor is beginning to reach high temps from watching fullscreen video — dust isn't the issue. With the main bottleneck being the processor, I've proposed the following upgrades:

BIOSTAR A780L3L AM3 AMD 760G Micro ATX AMD Motherboard
AMD Athlon II X2 255 Regor 3.1GHz Socket AM3 65W Dual-Core
2GB DDR3 RAM [G.SKILL 1333 (PC3 10666)]

She already has an old video card (GeForce MX4000) that I think will suffice. Although, there is a chance that the onboard video on this new motherboard will be better. :lol

Also, can I connect both her old hard drive and optical drive to the single ATA/IDE slot on the mobo?

What do you guys think — Is everything compatible, and will it handle fullscreen video without a hitch?

EDIT: It's worth mentioning that her budget is around $200, so there's room for a new video card if it's needed.
 

Omiee

Member
ithorien said:
Right click on Computer, go to "Manage". Select "Disk Management" under "Storage". Right click the disk in question (it should have no letter assigned), and click on "Change Drive Letter and Paths". Click "Change", change to an available letter, hit ok, confirm, then hit ok again. Close Computer Management.


that worked, last question: how do i fix games from crashing or not working because they are installed on the other hdd? And my bookmarks etc from firefox are on the other hdd how do i put them in my ssd ( i installed firefox there )
 

Datwheezy

Unconfirmed Member
Advance_Alarm said:
Thanks for this link, I'm planning on building in May so I think I'm going to buy this right now.

One question though, can you use this (it says Upgrade version) on a brand new computer that doesn't have an OS? Or do you have to have Windows Vista and then upgrade to windows 7? I'm on the checkout screen now but I can't figure out if this is the right thing to buy.

I'm pretty sure you need to have Vista or XP installed on the computer first (someone correct me if I am mistaken).

Although hypothetically, you could install either operating system using a product key that is already in use, as you wont be using it long enough to have to activate the machine/make sure it is genuine.
 
Datwheezy said:
I'm pretty sure you need to have Vista or XP installed on the computer first (someone correct me if I am mistaken).

Although hypothetically, you could install either operating system using a product key that is already in use, as you wont be using it long enough to have to activate the machine/make sure it is genuine.


ok, i have old XP discs. So there is a window from when you install XP until it checks to make sure its genuine? Then during this time I would use the upgrade to Windows 7. Would MS check that the old XP is genuine during the upgrade process? If this all works out it is a great deal, the windows 7 Home premium OEM is 99$, and getting W7 Professional for 45$ is a steal.
 

DrForester

Kills Photobucket
Advance_Alarm said:
One question though, can you use this (it says Upgrade version) on a brand new computer that doesn't have an OS? Or do you have to have Windows Vista and then upgrade to windows 7? I'm on the checkout screen now but I can't figure out if this is the right thing to buy.

I used an upgrade Windows 7 program to upgrade my laptop. Last week I got a SSD for it and it would not instal (installed W7 rather than try installing vista), I called Microsoft and they actually gave me a new key to register it on my new PC without any hassle.
 
TheExodu5 said:
I think the 60GB/120GB drives use the 34nm chips, and the 50GB/100GB drives use the 25nm chips.

edit: though I could be wrong.
That's what I thought too and the 60GB I put in my new rig turned out to be one of those slower 50GB drives.
 

Datwheezy

Unconfirmed Member
Advance_Alarm said:
ok, i have old XP discs. So there is a window from when you install XP until it checks to make sure its genuine? Then during this time I would use the upgrade to Windows 7. Would MS check that the old XP is genuine during the upgrade process? If this all works out it is a great deal, the windows 7 Home premium OEM is 99$, and getting W7 Professional for 45$ is a steal.

Not 100% sure about XP, as all my upgrades were from vista, but if I recall XP was even more lenient in regards to activation. As long as you have a key that will allow you get to the XP desktop you will be fine, as windows 7 doesnt check to make sure the key is valid. The only way they enforce the "upgrade" part is by making the start of the installation only available from inside of a windows environment instead of being able to boot right into the disc like a full install disc allows.

Edit: Again, I would get verification from someone else just in case, as I havent done a upgrade with XP, only vista, so all of this is pure speculation.

Edit2: Also keep in mind that if it does work, every time you need to do a fresh install, you would need to dig out the XP disc and key and go through the XP installation before the 7 installation.
 
D

Deleted member 17706

Unconfirmed Member
Yay!

I got my Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus today and successfully installed it.

My idle temps went from the high 40s/low 50s to 25 - 30c now.

I haven't tried running Prime95 to see what it gets under full load, but it everything works out I should be able to mess around with some overclocking later today!
 

Fox1304

Member
I'd like to upgrade my GPU in order to be able to use my new 3D Tv with all the nvidia software.
I currently have an old 8800 GT.
Any advices on what video card I should take ?
It has to be hdmi. Would love to get some sound through the hdmi too.
I want it powerful enough for some BR-3d playback, some gaming but not too much ( things such as L4D2, portal 2 or else ).
I have no idea if I may have to change my motherboard of my processor, or if that's not necessary. I currently have 2g or ram and an old 2,5 ghz dual core CPU.
Your word rig-gaf !
 

ithorien

Member
Omiee said:
that worked, last question: how do i fix games from crashing or not working because they are installed on the other hdd? And my bookmarks etc from firefox are on the other hdd how do i put them in my ssd ( i installed firefox there )

Your registry links are missing. The easiest way is to reinstall. As for Firefox, you'll need to copy your profile from old HDD to your SSD. http://support.mozilla.com/en-US/kb/Backing up your information

Advance_Alarm said:
ok, i have old XP discs. So there is a window from when you install XP until it checks to make sure its genuine? Then during this time I would use the upgrade to Windows 7. Would MS check that the old XP is genuine during the upgrade process? If this all works out it is a great deal, the windows 7 Home premium OEM is 99$, and getting W7 Professional for 45$ is a steal.

Unless Win 7 is different from Vista, it doesn't check. You can install XP offline, and right after first boot into OS use the Win 7 disc to upgrade.

Heads up about the student Win 7- you have to pay extra to get it on disc. You can download and with some utility I completely don't remember the name of, make an ISO. Google that and you should be able to find it.
 

shintoki

sparkle this bitch
My computer is from 2007(2gig Ram, Duo Core 2.13, and 8800GT 512mb). I don't plan to fully upgrade to a new one till later this year, early next. But I've been wanting to up the ram at least 4gig and just bring that over when I decide to upgrade the rest later.

Just got a Windows 7 64-bit too.

So a few things, Do I have to worry about compatibility with the motherboard and Ram?
2nd, would it be better just to get 8gigs now? I know it maxes out at 4gig with my current set up, but for when I do upgrade. It seems like it would be just cheaper to tack on the extra 30$ now for those 4gigs.

Final, I have no idea on quality. Give me some recommendations from NewEgg! Good prices too heh
 

ithorien

Member
shintoki said:
My computer is from 2007(2gig Ram, Duo Core 2.13, and 8800GT 512mb). I don't plan to fully upgrade to a new one till later this year, early next. But I've been wanting to up the ram at least 4gig and just bring that over when I decide to upgrade the rest later.

Just got a Windows 7 64-bit too.

So a few things, Do I have to worry about compatibility with the motherboard and Ram?
2nd, would it be better just to get 8gigs now? I know it maxes out at 4gig with my current set up, but for when I do upgrade. It seems like it would be just cheaper to tack on the extra 30$ now for those 4gigs.

Final, I have no idea on quality. Give me some recommendations from NewEgg! Good prices too heh

You have to give more details here. Why is your cap 4gb? Is the motherboard that old? In which case is your RAM DDR2?

There's no point in buying DDR2 memory if you're upgrading later this year. Again, post your complete specs.
 

Aruarian Reflection

Chauffeur de la gdlk
Advance_Alarm said:
Thanks for this link, I'm planning on building in May so I think I'm going to buy this right now.

One question though, can you use this (it says Upgrade version) on a brand new computer that doesn't have an OS? Or do you have to have Windows Vista and then upgrade to windows 7? I'm on the checkout screen now but I can't figure out if this is the right thing to buy.


A couple days ago, I clean installed Windows 7 upgrade version on a blank SSD (without needing Win XP or any other OS first). So yes, it's very possible. Here's a guide http://www.winsupersite.com/article/windows-7/clean-install-windows-7-with-upgrade-media.aspx
 

shintoki

sparkle this bitch
ithorien said:
You have to give more details here. Why is your cap 4gb? Is the motherboard that old? In which case is your RAM DDR2?

There's no point in buying DDR2 memory if you're upgrading later this year. Again, post your complete specs.
Is there a thing on my computer that tells me specs? I only know what I put it myself, since it was originally a Dell PC. The motherboard is used in the Dimension DM061, since I never placed that. I don't really know what to look for either on the specific type of ram, the Windows page is just saying 2gig(Ram came with the system too, So same as the DM061 model).

and I thought the 4gig cap was simply where most games are capped at?
 

Shambles

Member
Pocks said:
My mom is looking for a small upgrade to allow her to stream TV & movies without a hitch. Her setup from 2004/2005 isn't cutting it, as the processor is beginning to reach high temps from watching fullscreen video — dust isn't the issue. With the main bottleneck being the processor, I've proposed the following upgrades:

BIOSTAR A780L3L AM3 AMD 760G Micro ATX AMD Motherboard
AMD Athlon II X2 255 Regor 3.1GHz Socket AM3 65W Dual-Core
2GB DDR3 RAM [G.SKILL 1333 (PC3 10666)]

She already has an old video card (GeForce MX4000) that I think will suffice. Although, there is a chance that the onboard video on this new motherboard will be better. :lol

Also, can I connect both her old hard drive and optical drive to the single ATA/IDE slot on the mobo?

What do you guys think — Is everything compatible, and will it handle fullscreen video without a hitch?

EDIT: It's worth mentioning that her budget is around $200, so there's room for a new video card if it's needed.

Move the motherboard up to something that is using a chipset release with onboard video of the radeon 4200 or higher. The 785 chipset introduced better video decoding. It will hack any sort of video playback or streaming, you won't need a discrete GPU. If the motherboard support ACC unlock you also have a chance of turning that dual core into a triple or quad core.

BIOSTAR A880G+ AM3 AMD 880G HDMI Micro ATX AMD Motherboard $70
GIGABYTE GA-880GM-D2H AM3 AMD 880G HDMI Micro ATX AMD Motherboard $80
 

Kyaw

Member
shintoki said:
Is there a thing on my computer that tells me specs? I only know what I put it myself, since it was originally a Dell PC. The motherboard is used in the Dimension DM061, since I never placed that. I don't really know what to look for either on the specific type of ram, the Windows page is just saying 2gig(Ram came with the system too, So same as the DM061 model).

and I thought the 4gig cap was simply where most games are capped at?

Download Speccy

And post a screenshot of the main page or copy paste info onto here.
 

Pocks

Member
Shambles said:
Move the motherboard up to something that is using a chipset release with onboard video of the radeon 4200 or higher. The 785 chipset introduced better video decoding. It will hack any sort of video playback or streaming, you won't need a discrete GPU. If the motherboard support ACC unlock you also have a chance of turning that dual core into a triple or quad core.

BIOSTAR A880G+ AM3 AMD 880G HDMI Micro ATX AMD Motherboard $70
GIGABYTE GA-880GM-D2H AM3 AMD 880G HDMI Micro ATX AMD Motherboard $80

Thanks for the recommendation. I'll likely follow your advice.

The TV she wants to connect to is just an SDTV with component inputs.. I have DVI-to-Component adapter, so I imagine it won't be a problem?
 

ithorien

Member
shintoki said:
Is there a thing on my computer that tells me specs? I only know what I put it myself, since it was originally a Dell PC. The motherboard is used in the Dimension DM061, since I never placed that. I don't really know what to look for either on the specific type of ram, the Windows page is just saying 2gig(Ram came with the system too, So same as the DM061 model).

and I thought the 4gig cap was simply where most games are capped at?

Like Kyaw mentioned, Speccy will be very helpful. The 4gb cap isn't an actual cap, it's more of a "they don't use more that", so there's no point of getting more unless you use other programs that take advantage of it.
 
Hey guys need some help i want to build a PC for gaming/casual online use but i have no idea were to start and what to buy. I have a budget of 500.00-600.00 range and looking to play all kinds of game like simple strategy games to some first person shooters. Not looking to play games in very high settings but would like to have that option if i could also would like to have a intel system but i dont know if that could fit into my budget also would like the pc to be whisper quite. Need to upgrade my very old pc
 

Fox1304

Member
After my first researches, the GT430 seems really nice, and really what I need.
Hdmi, 3D, little gaming potential, and silent, cheap, and cold.
Anyone has one or can give me a go on it ?
 

nataku

Member
Well, finally get my PC put together, hit the power switch and... nothing. No beeps, no fan noise, no noise at all.

I checked all the cables and everything is plugged in properly and the power switch connector is correct. It just doesn't work.
 

nataku

Member
Yeah. I've built a couple systems before but I've never had one just do nothing when I hit the power.

I have been pretty disappointed with the case (Fractale Design Define R3) and had to take apart the Power LED (not switch) to clear out some metal blocking me from putting it on the MB but the power switch connector looked fine. Maybe it's just flat out broken. I wish I had a spare case to test it.

It could be the MB too I guess. Anyone know of issues with the MSI P67A-G45?
 

mr2xxx

Banned
What happened with SSD prices? I'm glad that they are getting faster (Intel 510, Vertex 3), but what about cheaper because the Intel 310 series isn't really much cheaper than last gen stuff.
 

Kyaw

Member
Misanthropy said:
Help me choose between this or this. I'm going to use this mobo to overclock and I need it to last me a good 3-5 years since this will be going towards my main comp.

The MSI one. Definitely.

nataku said:
Well, finally get my PC put together, hit the power switch and... nothing. No beeps, no fan noise, no noise at all.

I checked all the cables and everything is plugged in properly and the power switch connector is correct. It just doesn't work.

Might be the case switch being faulty. Double check again that you got the power switch and led connectors right. You could get one of these to test whether the case switch is being faulty or not without buying a new case...
 

nataku

Member
I ended up taking my old case and basically doing what that device would have done... I connected my old case's PW switch connector to my new system and hit the switch. Not surprisingly it started right up. Too bad my old case won't fit my new hardware.
 

Swag

Member
So my friend got an mx518 with a radeon 5850m but we cant figure out how to overclock it, the overdrive section isn't present in the ATI Catalyst control panel. I updated to the newest version but it still isn't present, do the mobile version of the hardware not get the overdrive panel?
 

Vyer

Member
Real Temp/Core Temp showing my i5 2500K is running at about 38C. No overclocking or anything, still stock, stock cooler. Is this normal?

Also noticed that the BIOS shows cpu temp as way too high. (around 60C). It's the ASUS P8P67 board.
 

knitoe

Member
Vyer said:
Real Temp/Core Temp showing my i5 2500K is running at about 38C. No overclocking or anything, still stock, stock cooler. Is this normal?

Also noticed that the BIOS shows cpu temp as way too high. (around 60C). It's the ASUS P8P67 board.
The bios temp will be higher since it doesn't have any power saving features found in OS.
 
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