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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|
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nataku said:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824260020&Tpk=Dell UltraSharp U2410
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236119
$50 off w/ promo code EMCYTZT380, ends 4/3
And about TN... yea, viewing angles are worse. But if you're short on money, then to me it's silly to go IPS when you can save 300+ and buy other parts with that. I have an IPS on the left and a TV on the right, and it's really not that bad.
VibratingDonkey
Member
The mouse in the Logitech S510 combo produces gamecrippling lag at the distance I'm sitting (3-3.5m), so I need a new wireless mouse, and probably also a new wireless keyboard as I'd preferably have one of my two USB ports on the front free.
Is this an issue with more modern wireless stuff?
I've been looking at the Microsoft Wireless Desktop 3000. Apparently it's thin profile, something I appreciate about the S510 keyboard, the mouse has two additional buttons, four direction scrollwheel, Bluetrack (not sure if that's just a marketing thing) and the price is right.
Is this an issue with more modern wireless stuff?
I've been looking at the Microsoft Wireless Desktop 3000. Apparently it's thin profile, something I appreciate about the S510 keyboard, the mouse has two additional buttons, four direction scrollwheel, Bluetrack (not sure if that's just a marketing thing) and the price is right.
What about the Dell UltraSharp U2311H and 2209WA?ithorien said:
CrazyIvan1978
Member
nataku said:
So, I know this is going to sound ridiculous, even I do not know why it worked. I was having issues with my Samsung SyncMaster 213T (horrible LCD by today's standards, but it was awesome for me 6 years ago, and I still use it). It seemed like it wouldn't stay on, or it would switch from Digital to Analog. Anyway, I opened it up and removed the PCB behind the buttons that allowed me to switch it on and off and use the menu on the front. The monitor has a power on/off switch on the back and the menu was useless anyway. Anyhow, all the problems went away, with the downside (debatable) that the buttons on the monitor do not work.
hey gaf i have a problem with my hdd, i used to have 2 samsungs 1tb hdd in my computer and i switched to the ssd but now for some kind of reason my 1tb hdd works well and the ssd to, but one hdd makes realy funny noises as if its scratching or what ever and than suddenly it stops.
and its not detected in device manager. Is my hdd broken? and can i save the files on it?
and its not detected in device manager. Is my hdd broken? and can i save the files on it?
No way. A 430 won't cut it for regular gaming either though. Basically how the Nvidia cards work, if you want a real live graphics card you need an x60 or higher. Such as a 260, 460, 560. 3D gaming will require some serious hardware in SLI.Fox1304 said:
Any particular reason why you need wireless? There's *always* going to be issues with wireless mice. If you need precision, you've gotta go wired.VibratingDonkey said:
Sounds like it is failing. Take it to a local compair repair shop to see if they switch platters to save the data if it's really important. Also, with how much you've talked about losing data, you need to get yourself at least an external HDD to backup your files, or a NAS if you can afford it.Omiee said:
Ok so I better forget about buying a higher card than the 430, since I don't want to spend a lot on it, and only focus on 3D BR playback for now?mkenyon said:
I thought i could at least play some older ames or not very demanding ones such as L4D2 in 3D and 720p with a gtx460, but if that's not the case, there's no way in hell I can afford a SLI rig now ...
So 430 it is then, with no chance of 3D gaming, but very low price ?
just a stupid question, but if I have 2 computers running Vista (not mine though), and they want to buy Windows 7 Home Premium Upgrade Family Pack, does Vista have to installed beforehand and will it be upgraded or can I make a clean install?
if the HDD doesn´t have Vista beforehand, but the computer has a key, can I then install a fresh Windows 7. or does Vista have to be installed first?
I remember the horrible ugrades from 95>98 etc. and that never was any good.
if the HDD doesn´t have Vista beforehand, but the computer has a key, can I then install a fresh Windows 7. or does Vista have to be installed first?
I remember the horrible ugrades from 95>98 etc. and that never was any good.
VibratingDonkey
Member
Having a USB cord going across the room doesn't seem like a very practical solution, especially if I'm gonna be swapping between my monitor and TV. But if you're telling me it's the only solution then I guess that's that.mkenyon said:
Fractal Design ended up getting back to me and they said they'll send out a new power switch so I can replace it. I was gonna take a look at it myself to see if it was just a lose wire but the front panel has too many different wires connected to it. I'd have to undo a large part of my cable management to get enough leeway to pull the front panel off far enough. Definitely something I'm only going to do once - to replace the entire switch.
In the meantime I just hooked up the Reset SW to the Power SW connector so I don't need to have my old case connected to it anymore.
In the meantime I just hooked up the Reset SW to the Power SW connector so I don't need to have my old case connected to it anymore.
Can someone build me a computer on Neogaf that is made just to run Final Fantasy XIV? I'm such a dork when it comes to stuff like this.
What you guys think of this build:
Intel Core i5-2300 2.8GHz LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core
CORSAIR CMPSU-750TX 750W
ASUS GeForce GTX 460 (Fermi) ENGTX460
ASUS P8P67 (REV 3.0) ATX Intel Motherboard
Kingston HyperX Blu 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3
What you guys think of this build:
Intel Core i5-2300 2.8GHz LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core
CORSAIR CMPSU-750TX 750W
ASUS GeForce GTX 460 (Fermi) ENGTX460
ASUS P8P67 (REV 3.0) ATX Intel Motherboard
Kingston HyperX Blu 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3
WanderingWind
Mecklemore Is My Favorite Wrapper
So, I'm way behind on my video card knowledge. I have a Radeon HD 4600, and I already know that won't work for The Witcher 2 or Skyrim. What's good nowadays that won't choke on either of those?
WanderingWind
Mecklemore Is My Favorite Wrapper
Kyaw said:
Not looking to spend more than 350, if possible.
mkenyon said:
first thing im going to do monday is get one of these:
http://www.wdc.com/en/products/products.aspx?id=240, it has usb 3.0 support so it should be fine.
But like you said there could be a chanse to save what is one the drive? Because i have important work files on it, i cant afford to lose.
WanderingWind
Mecklemore Is My Favorite Wrapper
Kyaw said:
I'll look into that, thanks.
TheExodu5 said:
Phenom 9450 Quad 2.40
How about this build;
(click on link to newegg)
CPU - Intel Core i5-2300 Sandy Bridge 2.8GHz
Motherboard - ASUS P8P67 (REV 3.0)
Video Card - ASUS ENGTX460 DIRECTCU/G/2DI/1GD5 GeForce GTX 460 (Fermi) 1GB
Ram - Kingston HyperX Blu 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)
Hard Drive - WD Green 2TB
Case - Silverstone Fortress
(click on link to newegg)
CPU - Intel Core i5-2300 Sandy Bridge 2.8GHz
Motherboard - ASUS P8P67 (REV 3.0)
Video Card - ASUS ENGTX460 DIRECTCU/G/2DI/1GD5 GeForce GTX 460 (Fermi) 1GB
Ram - Kingston HyperX Blu 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)
Hard Drive - WD Green 2TB
Case - Silverstone Fortress
Foliorum Viridum
Banned
I thought I'd fuck up my PC if I overclocked which is why I kept my CPU at stock for a year, but I bit the bullet over the last week and had great results.
Be sensible. Know your limits, inch it up slowly, test that it's stable before going higher. I'm confident about overclocking in the future now.
Be sensible. Know your limits, inch it up slowly, test that it's stable before going higher. I'm confident about overclocking in the future now.
That will be a pronounced bottleneck for the high end GPUs you're looking at. You'd need to overclock it further to start off-setting some of that. It would be better if you can at least hit ~2.8GHz, if not higher.WanderingWind said:
Otherwise, it may be time to start budgeting for a new build since you have time.
BloodySinner
Banned
Foliorum Viridum said:After a few days I think I've finally got there..
My first ever overclock - successful! (as long as I don't BSOD in the near future)
I do not understand. When I overclocked my 1055T, it does not display. Windows only recognizes the default setup as 2.8Ghz as opposed to the speed that it was OC'd to.
Foliorum Viridum
Banned
I dunno, it's been changing as I've bumped it up since 3.2ghz constantly. I used the Windows properties along with CPU-Z to make sure I had done it right.BloodySinner said:
It's all about controlling fan speeds.
I have a friend who has the Antec P180 and it sounds like a vacuum cleaner just because he has a 3000RPM fan blowing out of the back of it. I have no idea why he does that.
The P180 series will help reduce vibrations, which can be the most prominent noises once you have a well controlled acoustic environment.
If you want minimal noise with high performance parts, you'll need to spend a little more on cooling. The Noctua DH14 air cooler for the CPU (probably using the low voltage adapters for the fans), and maybe the Asus triple slot GPU solutions, or a custom cooler like the Accelero Xtreme or that 4 slot one that was pointed out here a few days ago (forget the name). It's possible to get a near silent PC, but when doing it with high performance parts, it takes some effort.
I have a friend who has the Antec P180 and it sounds like a vacuum cleaner just because he has a 3000RPM fan blowing out of the back of it. I have no idea why he does that.
The P180 series will help reduce vibrations, which can be the most prominent noises once you have a well controlled acoustic environment.
If you want minimal noise with high performance parts, you'll need to spend a little more on cooling. The Noctua DH14 air cooler for the CPU (probably using the low voltage adapters for the fans), and maybe the Asus triple slot GPU solutions, or a custom cooler like the Accelero Xtreme or that 4 slot one that was pointed out here a few days ago (forget the name). It's possible to get a near silent PC, but when doing it with high performance parts, it takes some effort.
That Silverstone Fortress mATX is a very nice case. Heard nothing but good things about it.
It's not going to be as quiet as full fledged 'silent' cases like Antec P180 or Fractal Design cases but it has very good airflow for a mATX case.
Also as Exodus said, fan speeds matters. If you fit a Delta ultra high rpm fan, its going to sound like a jet even with a 'silent' case.
It's not going to be as quiet as full fledged 'silent' cases like Antec P180 or Fractal Design cases but it has very good airflow for a mATX case.
Also as Exodus said, fan speeds matters. If you fit a Delta ultra high rpm fan, its going to sound like a jet even with a 'silent' case.
opticalmace
Member
I have a 4870 and I got a second one off craigslist a few months ago for crossfire goodness. Unfortunately it's been somewhat hit or miss, both with drivers and certain games taking hits or showing great improvements. For instance, if I use old drivers GRID runs great, but BF2 runs like shit. If I use the newest drivers, the opposite happens.
I'm wondering if I should just sell my 4870s now and upgrade to say a 6950 or 570 (but really this might give me +- the same performance?), or just sell one 4870 and wait, or just wait altogether till later in the year to upgrade?
For reference my CPU is an e8500 at 4Ghz, so that might be holding me back somewhat too. I game at 1920x1200.
(I plan on upgrading to Ivy Bridge when it comes out.)
Thanks!
I'm wondering if I should just sell my 4870s now and upgrade to say a 6950 or 570 (but really this might give me +- the same performance?), or just sell one 4870 and wait, or just wait altogether till later in the year to upgrade?
For reference my CPU is an e8500 at 4Ghz, so that might be holding me back somewhat too. I game at 1920x1200.
(I plan on upgrading to Ivy Bridge when it comes out.)
Thanks!
Coldsnap said:
For the GPU yes. But most good CPU coolers don't even have 4 pin fan controls so they're stuck at a constant speed, and your case fans are usually 3 pin as well, meaning they can't be controlled.
Honestly, as long as you have good cooling, you don't need as much airflow as people think. Either get yourself low RPM fans (maybe Noctuas, which will give you the option of using their low voltage adapters), or get yourself a fan controller to control them yourself.
On my HAF X, my 200MM fans are blowing at 400RPM, and my 140MM exhaust is blowing at 600RPM. My 120MM CPU cooler fans are blowing at 800RPM. Finally, my GPUs are the loudest, as their tiny 60mm fans blow at 1400RPM on idle, and 2500RPM load. The GPU fans are the only fans that ever speed up in my system...the rest are always constant speed.
Kyaw said:
I never seem to be able to find fans that actually come with the PWM header. Really though, as long as you have big heatsinks, low airflow shouldn't be a big problem, so setting up profiles for airflow should be unnecessary.
If I were building a silent PC today, I'd probably go with the Antec P183 or Fractal R3, swap the fans 800RPM Noctua fans, get a DH-14 cooler, and a triple slot Asus GTX 570/580 (hopefully it can actually fit in the R3). I'd suggest the Noctua fans just because they come with the low voltage adapters, which would be useful since the P183 and R3 aren't very friendly to dial fan controllers, due to the closing door.
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