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[Corky]

Weeeeeeeell FUCK ME IN MY STUUUUUUUUUUUPID ASS!!!!!!!!!!!

32bit windows 7.....
stupid'
stupid
stupid
moron
idiot
stupid
deeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeerpppppppppppppppppppppppppppp

how....how could I possibly be dumb enough to get the 32bit version of w7?
Sigh....

Thank god it was free, had I just wasted 250$ I would've chucked myself out the window. Guess I can get unlimited student copies so getting the 64bit won't be a problem. Only a big pointy fucking thorn in my urethra...

Fuck it, 00:26, I'll give it another go tomorrow.

Soooo stupid....


So what's the best way to go about this now ? Just go a regular reformat with the new 64bits w7 disc? Or do I have to take in account some extra shit?

Dumb, so really really dumb.

 

[TheExodu5]

As I mentioned yesterday, there's a high pitched buzzing sound that I notice most when the PC is powered down. I think I've isolated it to the PSU because it seems loudest around there. I dropped by Microcenter today and bought the same exact PSU for testing. But even after I replaced the PSU (and undid all my hard work with cable management), the problem is still there

I called Antec customer support and they say if the volume is as low as I think it is, that it's not a major problem. It's true that the buzzing doesn't get louder even when playing games or doing stress tests. It's at a constant volume and only audible if I walk to the back of the case and listen. What do you guys think?

My PSU, a couple people have this issue as well
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371020&Tpk=antec tp-550

This is a general electronics problem and is not necessarily related to the PSU. It's most likely a capacitor making the noise. PSU is often the culprit in these cases, but not always. Since the noise happens when the PC powers down, I'll have to guess it's the motherboard, since it's likely the only component that's still getting any power.

But yeah, it's a harmless issue, so it's up to you whether it's worth fixing or not.

 

[BloodySinner]

Guess I can get unlimited student copies so getting the 64bit won't be a problem. Only a big pointy fucking thorn in my urethra...

Hook me up, please.

Getting the OEM version of Windows 7 was a big mistake on my part. Of course, that's exactly what Microsoft wants. To confuse the customer and get them to pay MORE.

 

[Sarcasm]

Weeeeeeeell FUCK ME IN MY STUUUUUUUUUUUPID ASS!!!!!!!!!!!

32bit windows 7.....
stupid'
stupid
stupid
moron
idiot
stupid
deeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeerpppppppppppppppppppppppppppp

how....how could I possibly be dumb enough to get the 32bit version of w7?
Sigh....

Thank god it was free, had I just wasted 250$ I would've chucked myself out the window. Guess I can get unlimited student copies so getting the 64bit won't be a problem. Only a big pointy fucking thorn in my urethra...

Fuck it, 00:26, I'll give it another go tomorrow.

Soooo stupid....


So what's the best way to go about this now ? Just go a regular reformat with the new 64bits w7 disc? Or do I have to take in account some extra shit?

Dumb, so really really dumb.

How do you get unlimited student copies? Also I did same thing (mine was a direct download though) and asked for 64 bit, they just gave me a link.

Hook me up, please.

Getting the OEM version of Windows 7 was a big mistake on my part. Of course, that's exactly what Microsoft wants. To confuse the customer and get them to pay MORE.

Whats wrong with OEM?

 

[BloodySinner]

Whats wrong with OEM?

If I change my motherboard, the OEM serial key becomes defunct.

 

[Corky]

How do you get unlimited student copies? Also I did same thing (mine was a direct download though) and asked for 64 bit, they just gave me a link.

Well I don't know if I can actually get unlimited downloads, but I've started the download of the 64 bit version now. I was more thinking about " can I download another version " rather than the potential of infinite downloads.

 

[TheExodu5]

If it's through MSDNAA you probably only have 2 licenses: 32-bit and 64-bit.

Since I went to a Canadian University, my account gave me 4 licenses, as it had French licenses for each (which work fine with the English .iso).

 

[Corky]

If it's through MSDNAA you probably only have 2 licenses: 32-bit and 64-bit.

Since I went to a Canadian University, my account gave me 4 licenses, as it had French licenses for each (which work fine with the English .iso).

Well thats more reasonable than "unlimited" downloads. But I'm not surprised that shit came out of my daft mouth. Of all the things I could fuck up. It took me seriously like 3hours just to get every component into place and do a decent cablejob ( as decent as humanly possible without modular psu ) and in the end I crap on my own head.

 

[Veins]

I'm going with a 2500k with a NH-U12P and a reference design 570 GTX in an R3 case. Do you guys think I'll need extra fans?

 

[Sarcasm]

If I change my motherboard, the OEM serial key becomes defunct.

When you say OEM I think being the software OEM (Basically not Retail - no box). Do you mean prefab computers?

 

[Zeliard]

i own one. really good bang for the buck.

no ghosting at all. at least none that i can see. very nice picture quality. no dead pixels. a very good panel considering the price. i paid $197 when i grabbed mine. well worth that, in my opinion.

the only negative would maybe be the stand. the panel only tilts upwards or downwards, there's no hight adjustment or swivel from side to side. another somewhat negative would maybe be the buttons on the front of the panel are somewhat cheap feeling, but overall i don't find them that terrible.

Good stuff, thanks.

 

[ithorien]

Why does the damn thermal compound tube have a nozzle the size of Texas ><

Third thermal application, I hope I have a proper amount on there...

 

[astroturfing]

Club3D is just the name of the company, like Inno3D. Both of them sell standard fair GTX 560s. If anything, they tend to have custom GPU coolers and/or PCBs, but that's about it.

Don't get thrown off by the name.

hah wow, thanks for clearing that for me.

 

[CrankyJay]

Weeeeeeeell FUCK ME IN MY STUUUUUUUUUUUPID ASS!!!!!!!!!!!

32bit windows 7.....
stupid'
stupid
stupid
moron
idiot
stupid
deeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeerpppppppppppppppppppppppppppp

how....how could I possibly be dumb enough to get the 32bit version of w7?
Sigh....

Thank god it was free, had I just wasted 250$ I would've chucked myself out the window. Guess I can get unlimited student copies so getting the 64bit won't be a problem. Only a big pointy fucking thorn in my urethra...

Fuck it, 00:26, I'll give it another go tomorrow.

Soooo stupid....


So what's the best way to go about this now ? Just go a regular reformat with the new 64bits w7 disc? Or do I have to take in account some extra shit?

Dumb, so really really dumb.

Your post got me to check my DVD...I had a neighbor kid who goes to a university get me a copy of w7 for $14...problem is I didn't specify either. 32 bit. FML.

edit: Will a 32-bit key work on a 64-bit install? If i can find the disc somewhere from a friend but use my key this may work???

 

[cartman414]

http://vr-zone.com/articles/intel-z68-chipset-pricing-lower-than-expected/11817.html

Promising, as long as the least expensive mobos aren't seriously gimped.

 

[Funky Papa]

Weeeeeeeell FUCK ME IN MY STUUUUUUUUUUUPID ASS!!!!!!!!!!!

32bit windows 7.....
stupid'
stupid
stupid
moron
idiot
stupid
deeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeerpppppppppppppppppppppppppppp

how....how could I possibly be dumb enough to get the 32bit version of w7?
Sigh....

Thank god it was free, had I just wasted 250$ I would've chucked myself out the window. Guess I can get unlimited student copies so getting the 64bit won't be a problem. Only a big pointy fucking thorn in my urethra...

Fuck it, 00:26, I'll give it another go tomorrow.

Soooo stupid....


So what's the best way to go about this now ? Just go a regular reformat with the new 64bits w7 disc? Or do I have to take in account some extra shit?

Dumb, so really really dumb.

I was *this* close of doing a similar mistake today while ordering my last batch of pieces (I put W7 Professional instead of Home Edition OEM in the basket). Sooo close.

 

[Raistlin]

Your post got me to check my DVD...I had a neighbor kid who goes to a university get me a copy of w7 for $14...problem is I didn't specify either. 32 bit. FML.

What's great is your IM was almost identical to the start of his post


CrankyJay: fuck i fail so hard
FUCK
FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU
me: the hell?
did you break your computer?
CrankyJay: my neighbor kid got me win7 ultimate for $14....it's 32bit
me: AHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
lol that sux
CrankyJay:

 

[BloodySinner]

When you say OEM I think being the software OEM (Basically not Retail - no box). Do you mean prefab computers?

The OEM version of Windows 7 is technically meant for PC manufacturers, hence why it's so cheap to purchase. However, many online retailers sell it to customers. The OEM version of Winodws 7 comes packaged in a plain white box.

 

[Sarcasm]

The OEM version of Windows 7 is technically meant for PC manufacturers, hence why it's so cheap to purchase. However, many online retailers sell it to customers. The OEM version of Winodws 7 comes packaged in a plain white box.

Yea I always bought every OEM. Both my W7 and whatnot.

 

[Aruarian Reflection]

I only had a 32 bit Win 7 upgrade DVD but was able to clean install 64 bit Win 7. Just download the 64 bit Win 7 ISO from DigitalRiver or similar places and use the key, it'll work.

This is a general electronics problem and is not necessarily related to the PSU. It's most likely a capacitor making the noise. PSU is often the culprit in these cases, but not always. Since the noise happens when the PC powers down, I'll have to guess it's the motherboard, since it's likely the only component that's still getting any power.

But yeah, it's a harmless issue, so it's up to you whether it's worth fixing or not.

Ok cool. The noise is a minor convenience. I just don't want the PSU exploding or something.

Mine is an upgrade disc/key...will that work?

Yep. Follow one of these methods http://www.winsupersite.com/article/windows-7/clean-install-windows-7-with-upgrade-media

 

[CrankyJay]

Mine is an upgrade disc/key...will that work?

edit: Digital River doesn't have ultimate...Amazon.com had links back in the day but they're broken now.

 

[Aruarian Reflection]

You can try doing this ISO edition switcher http://www.mydigitallife.info/2009/...on-switcher-free-download-for-direct-convert/

I've never done it before but it might work

Download links for ISOs here
http://www.mydigitallife.info/2010/...cial-32-bit-and-64-bit-direct-download-links/

 

[Hawk269]

Yeah that's a pretty amazing build and it definitely deserves an SSD.

Exodus and others. Let's say I want to add the SSD to my rig, how would I go about doing that? I already have Windows on the HDD and a bunch of games. Would I basically have to wipe the HDD, hook up the SSD and install Windows to the SSD alone. Main reason I did not go with SSD is I have no idea about how to set it up etc.

 

[TheExodu5]

Exodus and others. Let's say I want to add the SSD to my rig, how would I go about doing that? I already have Windows on the HDD and a bunch of games. Would I basically have to wipe the HDD, hook up the SSD and install Windows to the SSD alone. Main reason I did not go with SSD is I have no idea about how to set it up etc.

Well you'd install Windows on the SSD, but you don't need to actually wipe the hard drive. Just give the SSD boot priority in the BIOS.

 

[Hawk269]

If I change my motherboard, the OEM serial key becomes defunct.

Not true. I had a rig built for me last August with Win 64 Ultimate. Built my new rig on Sunday and installed the same copy of Win 64 Ultimate. After the install, entered the key and no problem. On Tuesday got an automated update that my copy of Win was verified or someting like that. I had already prepared to call MS as they told me when I called them a week earlier that it would be no issue, but that if it did not verify to call them.

So you should be good man. Any issues call MS. Just tell them you MB went out, had to get a new one.

 

[R2D4]

Parts just came in today for my upgrade. Newegg had $25 off $100 purchase for new users. So 3 new email addresses saved me $75.

Going from:

Antec P180
4gb Corsair DDR2
Q9550 @ 3.8Ghz
Asus P5Q Pro
1 x Samsung F3 1tb
Gigabyte GTX 460


Replacing with:

Silverstone FT02B (Freaking huge case. Totally underestimated the size.)
ASUS P8P67-M PRO
Intel i5 2500k
8gb Corsair Vengeance DDR3
4 x 1tb Samsung F3

Keeping the Gigabyte GTX 460 and my Corsair 650 Watt power supply.

Probably won't see much improvement outside of games but with the newegg special and having $100 credit at Amazon for the case saved me a lot. Plus it feels good to have a current generation PC.

 

[TheExodu5]

You'll see a big improvement in Dolphin, most likely.

 

[DrForester]

Not true. I had a rig built for me last August with Win 64 Ultimate. Built my new rig on Sunday and installed the same copy of Win 64 Ultimate. After the install, entered the key and no problem. On Tuesday got an automated update that my copy of Win was verified or someting like that. I had already prepared to call MS as they told me when I called them a week earlier that it would be no issue, but that if it did not verify to call them.

So you should be good man. Any issues call MS. Just tell them you MB went out, had to get a new one.

had a really nice experience a few weeks ago when I got my new laptop HDD. My old upgrade windows 7 key wouldn't work. Explained it to them and they issued me a new Key with no hassles.

 

[ithorien]

Holy.
Shit.

Never going back to magnetic for OS, ever. SSD > everything.

Just installed OS, now I have to deal with merging data from my old PC to this new one. So far only checked Real Temp, and it's reporting 28-30C idle, haven't had time to run Prime yet. Weird thing though, RT is showing CPU speed as 0 MHz, at 100.33x0.0 multiplier. Any ideas why?

 

[DodgyGeezerFella]

So i think my hard drive is about to give out, ive noticed a couple of downloads have been corrupt recently, i had a strange occurance where nothing would load up (only restarting the computer would solve it), and according to HD Tune my "Spin Retry Rate" is in the yellow, with Current/Worse at 100, and the Threshold at 97, other than that it says its fine.

Anything i can use to scan for any hard drive errors ? Would a full HD Tune error scan find anything (ive only done a quick one and it found nothing) ?

 

[RaGNaRoK 2k5]

Hey all, I just got the P8P67 Pro in today for my build and I am having some issues. I've got everything installed correctly but it won't boot up at all. I connect the power and the stand-by LED on the bottom of the board is a steady green but no other indicators are lit, none of the fans kick on, and the PSU doesn't put off any heat. I've swapped my RAM around, tried plugging the switches directly to the board, unplugged all the data cables, and removed the video card. I'm beat, it was my first build and I've been at it since 1:30 PM today. I've been looking it up on the web to no avail. I'm guessing its the PSU or Mobo, but I really hope it isn't. I'm going to take the whole thing apart tomorrow and try again and maybe something miraculous will happen lol

Here's my final build:

ASUS P8P67-Pro
Intel i5 2500k
ATI Radeon HD6950
Corsair Enthusiast 750TX-V2
G-Skill 2x4GB 12800 DDR3
Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus
ASUS 24x DVD-RW
Lancool PC-K62

Help would be greatly appreciated

 

[knitoe]

Holy.
Shit.

Never going back to magnetic for OS, ever. SSD > everything.





Just installed OS, now I have to deal with merging data from my old PC to this new one. So far only checked Real Temp, and it's reporting 28-30C idle, haven't had time to run Prime yet. Weird thing though, RT is showing CPU speed as 0 MHz, at 100.33x0.0 multiplier. Any ideas why?

Are you using the latest RT? What does CPUZ say?

 

[scogoth]

Hey all, I just got the P8P67 Pro in today for my build and I am having some issues. I've got everything installed correctly but it won't boot up at all. I connect the power and the stand-by LED on the bottom of the board is a steady green but no other indicators are lit, none of the fans kick on, and the PSU doesn't put off any heat. I've swapped my RAM around, tried plugging the switches directly to the board, unplugged all the data cables, and removed the video card. I'm beat, it was my first build and I've been at it since 1:30 PM today. I've been looking it up on the web to no avail. I'm guessing its the PSU or Mobo, but I really hope it isn't. I'm going to take the whole thing apart tomorrow and try again and maybe something miraculous will happen lol

Here's my final build:

ASUS P8P67-Pro
Intel i5 2500k
ATI Radeon HD6950
Corsair Enthusiast 750TX-V2
G-Skill 2x4GB 12800 DDR3
Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus
ASUS 24x DVD-RW
Lancool PC-K62

Help would be greatly appreciated

Unplug everything but the psu and the fans.

First does the fan in the PSU start? If not make sure the power switch is plugged in correctly to the mobo or use the on mobo power switch it if it has one. Also make sure the 24-pin ATX connector AND the 4-pin CPU power connector are plugged in.

Second take the psu out and take a small wire or paper clip and bridge the pin with the green wire to a pin with a black wire. If the PSU doesn't turn on RMA it, if it does then we'll continue from there.

 

[tafer]

Rough build:

$100 - Fractal Design R3
$100 - Corsair 650TX
$150 - Asus P8P67
$220 - Core i5 2500K
$70 - Noctua DH-14
$80 - G.Skill 8GB DDR3
$270 - AMD 6950 2GB
$70 - Blu-Ray Drive
$240 - Intel 320 120GB
$80 - Samsung F3 1TB

+

$100 - Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit
$10 - Standard Keyboard
$50 - Razer DeathAdder

I didn't double check the prices, but those should be fairly close.

edit: moving a few things around to fit in the ssd...hold on

edit2: okay, pretty close to $1500. It can be tweaked a bit to your liking. If I were going for a really quiet system, I'd up the GPU to an Asus GTX 570 DirectCu II. $350, and not that much faster than the 6950, but it's a 3 slot cooler and apparently runs incredibly quiet, so load noises will be kept to a minimum. The SSD is also very important to having a quiet system...no more drive seek noises during normal operation.

Thanks a lot for the info!

What's GAF's opinion on this SSD?:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...42&cm_re=intel_ssd_510-_-20-167-042-_-Product

Checking some stuff I completely forgot that I have a 640GB 7200RPM HDD absolutely new that I never got to use (long story), I guess I can push for an i7 2600k !


In any case, is it a good idea to wait for the AMD Bulldozer Chips?

 

[ithorien]

Are you using the latest RT? What does CPUZ say?

Cpu-Z is reporting correct. I'll double check on RT tomorrow, have to go to bed now. I'll iron out the kinks after work tomorrow

 

[TheExodu5]

What's GAF's opinion on this SSD?:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...42&cm_re=intel_ssd_510-_-20-167-042-_-Product

Better sequential speeds than the 320, but worse random speeds, and it's an Intel drive that doesn't actually use an Intel controller, so no idea about reliability.

Basically, faster games loading, but maybe slightly slower OS response. Your call as to which is more important to you.

Also, push for the GTX 570 triple slot before you push for the 2600k.

I wouldn't bother waiting for Bulldozer for gaming. I doubt Bulldozer 4 core performance will be anywhere near the 2500k. I'm guessing 8 core performance will be a good deal ahead, but that won't offer much benefit for gaming (yet).

 

[tafer]

Better sequential speeds than the 320, but worse random speeds, and it's an Intel drive that doesn't actually use an Intel controller, so no idea about reliability.

Basically, faster games loading, but maybe slightly slower OS response. Your call as to which is more important to you.

Also, push for the GTX 570 triple slot before you push for the 2600k.

I wouldn't bother waiting for Bulldozer for gaming. I doubt Bulldozer 4 core performance will be anywhere near the 2500k. I'm guessing 8 core performance will be a good deal ahead, but that won't offer much benefit for gaming (yet).

Hmm... I think I can get both with my current budget. (I'll check and inform later)

 

[mike23]

Also that PSU he has is HUGE overkill. A NAS box is one of the lower power consumption computers you can build. Just buy the cheapest PSU from a reliable brand you can find. Personally I would just spend 60$ on a case with a built in PSU instead of spending a lot of money on a higher end case and a seperate PSU. Your peak power consumption will never go above 100W, even with 6 drives.

The reason I'm considering that case is because it's the cheapest case that I found that can hold the number of drives I want to put in it. It has 8 internal 3.5" and 2 5.25" that bays that I can use. Anything cheaper that I've seen only has 4 or 5 total.

With the power supply, the bonus is that it is modular and it comes with enough sata power connectors. I might be able to get a cheaper power supply, but I'd have to buy sata adapters for it.

It'll probably be at least a few weeks before I pull the trigger, so I'll still be looking for better deals, but those are the best options I've seen atm.

edit: I'd actually prefer a fully modular power supply if I could find one, but haven't seen an cheap ones and it's a pain to find how modular a PS is on NewEgg

 

[TheExodu5]

Hmm... I think I can get both with my current budget. (I'll check and inform later)

Yeah, that GTX 570 is mainly for the lower sound levels. The build I set up is tweaked to be very quiet.

The only thing that might need some tweaking are the case fans, but you can worry about that after it's up and running. You can then decide for yourself if you want to lower the fan speeds or replace them with quieter fans.

 

[TheExodu5]

Intel 320 160GB

$285 w/ promo code HARDOCPX4X6A

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-_-na-_-na&AID=10521304&PID=3891137&SID=194r0

Damn good deal.

 

[Sarcasm]

Intel 320 160GB

$285 w/ promo code HARDOCPX4X6A

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-_-na-_-na&AID=10521304&PID=3891137&SID=194r0

Damn good deal.

God damn it I just bought the 120gb last week for 230. lol OH WELL

 

[nismogrendel]

The OEM version of Windows 7 is technically meant for PC manufacturers, hence why it's so cheap to purchase. However, many online retailers sell it to customers. The OEM version of Winodws 7 comes packaged in a plain white box.

Ugh... I just ordered Win7 oem and installed it on my current machine. I guess I should have paid attention to those red labels. So when my new hardware shows up next week, I'm going to have to buy another copy of win7?

There is no way to use my current copy on my new build?

 

[woober]

Ugh... I just ordered Win7 oem and installed it on my current machine. I guess I should have paid attention to those red labels. So when my new hardware shows up next week, I'm going to have to buy another copy of win7?

There is no way to use my current copy on my new build?

I believe you should be able to call microsoft and have them deactivate it from your current machine so that you can use it on your new build.

 

[Hazaro]

Intel 320 160GB

$285 w/ promo code HARDOCPX4X6A

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-_-na-_-na&AID=10521304&PID=3891137&SID=194r0

Damn good deal.

Goddam 10% tax.
Save me Amazon

It's ok too since amazon ships HDD's with zero padding, but since its an SSD it'll be fine!

 

[Corky]

Sooo

Is it "ok" to run my rams @ 1.65v 1600mhz ( their standard values/settings that is ) while trying to OC my sandybridge to ~4.8ghz?

 

[Hazaro]

should be fine.
should run too at 1.6V which is what i would personally do

 

[Corky]

should be fine.
should run too at 1.6V which is what i would personally do

cheers, here goes. Gonna be fun, hopefully nothing blows up

edit : what should my tempceiling be when stressing the 2600k in prime95?
edit : hmm running prime 95 gave me errors on all workers and had them stop. What should I adjust now?

 

[n0n44m]

cheers, here goes. Gonna be fun, hopefully nothing blows up

edit : what should my tempceiling be when stressing the 2600k in prime95?
edit : hmm running prime 95 gave me errors on all workers and had them stop. What should I adjust now?

I'd be comfortable with 70 to 75c ... absolute ceiling is around 90 or so ? Can't really remember but when using Realtemp I got throttling at 5ghz with high voltage (just a check for a few seconds wouldn't recommend doing it for longer lol)

up the cpu voltage if you get errors ^^ don't go over 1.4ish on air, definitely not over 1.4 on air 24/7

edit: ow and when using stresstests, try only stressing the physical CPU cores on the 2600K -> select prime95.exe or whatever you are using in Task Manager, select affinity and then select core 0,2,4,6

the other cores are "virtual" and trying to stress those could only decreases overall stress efficiency depending on the software used ... so if this trick increases temps it definitely increases the efficiency of the stress test

edit2: just checked for prime95 but didn't change much .. definitely helps for Linpack though

 

[Zinga]

Pro tip: 32 bit keys work on 64 bit installs, and visa versa! so just download a 64bit image from the net and pop your 32bit key in during install and you are away

 

[Corky]

This is what it looks like now

4.7ghz with 1.4v but I believe I can lower the cpuvoltage, however the cpu doesn't seem to downvolt. Cpu-z shows 1600mhz downthrottling when idle but I'm still on 1.4V, how can I get it to downvolt when it's idle?

Also any suggestion for a rough cpuvoltage for 4.7ghz 24/7 `?

edit : for what's its worth I'm following this guide :http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1578110

Maybe I've enabled some option that doesn't allow the cpuvoltage to become lower when the cpu is idle?