The Lamonster said:
Oh man. You're opening up Pandora's box right here, once you look at $800 chairs, there's no going back.
Uber chair
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Oh man. You're opening up Pandora's box right here, once you look at $800 chairs, there's no going back.
Uber chair
itsnervedamage
Member
claviertekky said:
http://www.anandtech.com/bench/Product/52?vs=53
8xxx series overclocks pretty well, and 45nm probably gives it an even greater advantage.
You've already got that current chip at a 30% OC, I don't think any board could push it much further. 8 series should go to 3.6, 6 series you'll have a much harder time getting it there. I think it's a pretty good cost/benifit balance to go with the 8 series in this case, and I've had good luck pushing the OC...I have 2 different pairs of RAM right now and they are hassling me when I OC too much. Check teh specs on that 7 gigs you have, when FSB starts hitting 400 I just have parts giving me issues all over the place (I'm greedy and I keep trying to run 1:1 FSB:RAM).
To be honest, I only got the e8500 because I just wanted to eke out a little better min-frames from BFBC2 and not do the full overhaul until Sandy Bridge rolled out. I'm just waiting to see if competition from Bulldozer can get drive some price shuffling out there now.
After a similar overclock (3GHz minimum, but 3.2-3.6GHz+ preferable) you'll be looking at something in the range of ~30-50% increase with editing and various productivity apps. Single and dual core games/apps won't benefit a great deal unless you have a higher overclock, or, better yet, a newer CPU (such as Core i xxx or Core i 2xxx). You'll get a small handful of fps extra in some titles, ranging up to double digit gains in others that use 2-4 cores.claviertekky said:
A Q9x50 would be preferable, though you aren't likely to find one as cheap as a Q6600. If you are trying to hold out on a new build and want to upgrade for as little as possible, a ~$100 Q6600 may be worth it to you (depending on how much longer you plan on running that PC). Keep in mind that you'll need good cooling (case and HSF) to get the most out of it. Ultimately, numerous titles and apps still won't run as well as what you'd get by saving for a bit, and going with a newer build.
edit: looks like some of this has been addressed
The Lamonster
Member
haha yeah, a little out of my price range. Anything for around 200 bones?ithorien said:
itsnervedamage said:
I think at this point I'll consider the Q8/Q9 series when they're cheaper.
I was considering doing a mobo/CPU rehaul with DDR2 memory and an AMD AM3 processor as it seemed cost-effective. The only reason why I went Intel was this E2xx series and how great overclockers they were as I build my desktops according to value.
·feist· said:
I'll just wait it out then for another 2-3 years when those CPUs are like $50. Extra speed is a luxury. All I know is I won't be getting an Intel desktop CPU next time if that's how they treat people who bought things in mind to upgrade later. I thought the 45nm LGA 775 line would drop, but no, Intel says we're gonna jack up the price and make you regret it later for thinking so.
Thanks for all your responses.
itsnervedamage
Member
ithorien said:
Aw crap now I have chair envy...
just bought this for the home office - http://www.staples.com/Staples-Kron...3700?cmArea=FEATURED:SC2:CG32:DP2155:CL142571The Lamonster said:
very comfortable for extended sitting.
The Lamonster
Member
How did you come to decide on it? Did you just go to the store and sit in a bunch of chairs?scorcho said:
I'm kind of overwhelmed right now with all the office chair options out there. Does Staples have a good selection?
Go to the store and try them out. Only awy to know.
Make sure the chair has the adjustments you need as well.
Also, if you're really hard on your chairs, leather, or something that's not cloth like is preferable. My last chair was a $500 cloth/synthetic chair, and I absolutely wrecked it just by using it. The arm rests got pierced after a while, and the cloth started tearing. Mind you, I spend 30-40 hours a week on this thing, so it's not too surprising. Hell, when I was in school, I was probably spending upwards of 60 hours a week on the damned thing.
I literally do everything at my PC, though. All my communication with friends is through Ventrilo or MSN. I browse NeoGAF a lot. I play my games there (including console games on the same display). I watch my movies. I'll read my books in the chair.
I'm using a fairly cheap leather chair at the moment. I was going to buy something high end, but my parents got it for me at Christmas. It's quite comfortable...the only issue is that it can get warm if I don't keep my room fairly cool. Still, it's real leather and appears to be quite durable...should do me for a few years until I get my own place and get something really nice.
Make sure the chair has the adjustments you need as well.
Also, if you're really hard on your chairs, leather, or something that's not cloth like is preferable. My last chair was a $500 cloth/synthetic chair, and I absolutely wrecked it just by using it. The arm rests got pierced after a while, and the cloth started tearing. Mind you, I spend 30-40 hours a week on this thing, so it's not too surprising. Hell, when I was in school, I was probably spending upwards of 60 hours a week on the damned thing.
I literally do everything at my PC, though. All my communication with friends is through Ventrilo or MSN. I browse NeoGAF a lot. I play my games there (including console games on the same display). I watch my movies. I'll read my books in the chair.
I'm using a fairly cheap leather chair at the moment. I was going to buy something high end, but my parents got it for me at Christmas. It's quite comfortable...the only issue is that it can get warm if I don't keep my room fairly cool. Still, it's real leather and appears to be quite durable...should do me for a few years until I get my own place and get something really nice.
The Lamonster
Member
I weigh about 180 and use my PC for like 3 hours a day, but I think I'll still go with real leather if that's what you guys recommend. Thanks for the tips guys.
Any store recommendations (in the USA)?
Any store recommendations (in the USA)?
Basically. It's comparable to the Aeron except for non-movable arm rests, which could be a deal breaker for some. the mesh is supple and breathes well, and the lumbar support is very, very good. Unlike a lot of the leather/padded chairs, you won't get butt-fatigued from sitting in a mesh chair for hours on end (not that you should, anyhow!).The Lamonster said:
Corky said:
TPU-
Turning this switch to ENABLE will automatically optimize the system for fast, yet stable clock speeds.
You may use the TurboV and Auto Tuning feature in the TurboV EVO application, adjust the BIOS setup program, or enable the TPU switch at the same time. However, the system will use the last setting you have made.
I'm thinking about OCing tonight, this shit is getting more and more complicated lol. Either way I understand though, I should OC on the BIOS level if I want it to always be OC when I boot, right?
Stantron
Member
Quoted from a few pages back. I think I'll go with the Intel 320 SSD for reliability and because I mainly use my PC for web browsing/music/video/office. This will be my first SSD so I don't want to deal with any headaches. Maybe in a few years, when the performance gets even better, I'll upgrade to the latest and greatest. But for now the 320 should do fine, even though it's SATA II.TheExodu5 said:
I plan to dabble in PC gaming (BF3,SC2), which would benefit from the 510's higher sequential speeds, but random speeds seems the way to go for a more casual user like myself. Video editing and photoshop would benefit too, right? Any comments/advice before I pull the trigger on Newegg?
The 320 definitely gets my recommendation as the go-to drive for most people here. If you want to be absolutely sure about reliability, you can consider the X-25M, since it's been a reliable drive for over 2 years now. But since the 320 is the evolution of the same controller, I think it's a very safe bet, and performance should be better.
The Vertex 3 is for users that know what they're getting into...same with the C300 and m4 (C400). They can offer potentially very good performance, but the people buying these drives should expect to deal with a possible issue or two. The C300, for example, has sleeping/stuttering issues for some people, and it appears it takes some registry hacking to get them to play nice for these people. This will continue to be the case until the firmware matures some more.
The Intel 510 is probably a bit of an in between. Only get it if you know you want to store a lot of big data and want fast sequential loading (for most people here, this would be for having faster games loading). It uses a non-Intel controller, so you're not guaranteed Intel reliability...but you can still assume it's gone through Intel testing/validation, so you can probably expect better reliability than most.
The Vertex 3 is for users that know what they're getting into...same with the C300 and m4 (C400). They can offer potentially very good performance, but the people buying these drives should expect to deal with a possible issue or two. The C300, for example, has sleeping/stuttering issues for some people, and it appears it takes some registry hacking to get them to play nice for these people. This will continue to be the case until the firmware matures some more.
The Intel 510 is probably a bit of an in between. Only get it if you know you want to store a lot of big data and want fast sequential loading (for most people here, this would be for having faster games loading). It uses a non-Intel controller, so you're not guaranteed Intel reliability...but you can still assume it's gone through Intel testing/validation, so you can probably expect better reliability than most.
Dear GAF, my girlfriend broke her MacBook pro. It turns on but the screen is blank. The place she went said either the screen is dead, or the logic board is dead(motherboard?). He said it would be very expensive to fix either. Is there a chance that it's just a loose connection, she's pretty rough on the thing.
If it's the logic board she's gonna buy one of the new macs, and she's trying to decide what size screen to get, 15 or 17. The 15 has 1440 x 900, and the 17 has 1920 x 1200. Shes into art and will probably want to watch hd movies and stuff, is it worth the extra $300 to get the bigger better resolution?
I'm a pc guy, so I dunno anything about macs, any help would be greatly appreciated!
If it's the logic board she's gonna buy one of the new macs, and she's trying to decide what size screen to get, 15 or 17. The 15 has 1440 x 900, and the 17 has 1920 x 1200. Shes into art and will probably want to watch hd movies and stuff, is it worth the extra $300 to get the bigger better resolution?
I'm a pc guy, so I dunno anything about macs, any help would be greatly appreciated!
Wow. I didn't realize how easy and fast it takes to update from Windows 7 Home to Ultimate. With my recently arrived Asus EP121 Tablet, I was planning to do a fresh, but since it doesn't have a DVD drive, I would need to create bootable USB with Windows. Instead, I just use the "Upgrade anytime" option, enter my Ultimate key and the upgrade took <10 minutes.
Hawk269
Member
ithorien said:
Yes. You can use TurboV and save it, but then you have to load it after the computer boots for the overclock. From start up, it is eathier set via the Bios or TPU and that does it when the system boots.
So far the TPU one has been really good, testing alot of stuff and zero issues. It does max at 4.4ghz for me via TPU. I plan to go to 4.6 on my own when I am done reading more about doing the manual OC.
Hawk269
Member
TheExodu5 said:
Exodus - You have me more and more thinking of SSD now, but I do not do ANYTHING else on my Rig other than play games. Due to the size of SSD's, I know I cant save all my games data onto an SSD..so far just gaming alone is it worth getting an SSD just ot have Windows load faster?
itsnervedamage said:
If you have a 1066MHz motherboard, then the Q6600 is easily the better choice, since not all 1066MHz motherboards fully support the 1333Mhz line of CPUs.
As for which is better? The Q6600 is a better overclocker, since it runs at a slower fsb by default. Bringing that 266 fsb to 400 fsb is going to bring the Q6600 up to 3.6GHz.
The Q8400 on the other hand will start to max out its overclock sooner, as 400fsb equates to 3.195 GHz. Going higher than that will mean 1) messing with RAM timings or multiplier to get it to play nice past its rated spec, and 2) possibly running into a Northbridge bottleneck, as many motherboards have trouble going past 400fsb.
The only thing is that the Q6600 is a very hot chip, and will need adequate cooling to reach its max overclock.
Hawk269 said:
If you really do nothing other than game, then I guess it may not have a huge impact. But if you do any web browsing at all, it will already prove itself worth it. Once you get into a game, the SSD will no longer benefit you unless you're running the game off it. Steam also runs much faster with an SSD.
EatChildren
Currently polling second in Australia's federal election (first in the Gold Coast), this feral may one day be your Bogan King.
I have an Asus P8P67, and digging around in the BIOS I found two things; "Enhanced Intel Speedstep Technology" and "Turbo Mode". But are enabled.
Should I disable them?
Should I disable them?
EatChildren
Currently polling second in Australia's federal election (first in the Gold Coast), this feral may one day be your Bogan King.
scogoth said:
Thank you strange pony.
claviertekky said:
Yea, it's a six pin one. well shit, how long does it take to get a new motherboard from RMA'ing it? This has been a bummer first the case now this. Also how can I be 100% sure it's the motherboard?
scogoth said:
Yea, I have a Asus GTX 460 in there and same thing when connected to that.
HowardRoark
Member
Anyone on a stock 1155 cooler? I just installed mine, terrible temps. I probably did it incorrectly (I remember 775 being much easier). I was laughing when I got 68 C temps at idle.
Now, stay with 3x120mm intakes or switch to a single 200mm/230mm + single 120mm intake setup for increased quietness?
Possibly, 140mm+120mm+200mm/230mm
Decisions, decisions. Back to tweaking.
You can try running a quick stress test to see what temps rise too (in case you just have bad sensor readings). If they skyrocket, then you should be concerned.
Possibly, 140mm+120mm+200mm/230mm
Decisions, decisions. Back to tweaking.
May need to re-seat the cooler. Intel's stock HSFs plug in easily, but if you fiddle with them, or it loosens up a bit, you'll often end up with mounting issues.HowardRoark said:
You can try running a quick stress test to see what temps rise too (in case you just have bad sensor readings). If they skyrocket, then you should be concerned.
Hawk269
Member
TheExodu5 said:
Ok..Well I guess I will save the money then. I only Websurf on the gaming rig to go to Nvidia or EVGA to get updates, drivers etc. I also will visit neo-gaf from it from time to time, but that is pretty much it. While I understand Steam works faster, with the games I have I would need a larger SSD to house the games and that is getting into very expenive territory for higher capacity SSD's.
Hawk269
Member
Coldsnap said:on my core i did notice two pressure depressions on the core where i circled, it's from the clamp on the mobo
Unless I am mistaken, the clamp from the MB to secure the CPU should *NOT* leave a pressure depression on the core itself. Are you saying there are physical depressions on the CPU die that were not there when you first opened the CPU?
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