I don't think visiting the data drive for a single symbolic link is too costly. I've symbolic linked games back to the SSD and I don't really notice any noticeable difference to having them natively there. Actually, come to think of it, the symbolic link locations must get cached somewhere...probably in memory, otherwise it would kind of defeat the purpose of symbolic links when you think about it.
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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|
- Thread starter Hazaro
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It's very noticeable when your hard drive hasn't spun up, either because you're just coming out of sleep mode, or because it's spun down for power savings after long periods of disuse.TheExodu5 said:
Yeah, that's what I do. Unfortunately, a bunch of games drop large .gcf files in there, which you need to individually link across if you don't want them on your SSD.scogoth said:
General SSD question GAF.
The more I research these things, the more my head hurts. I picked up a Crucial C300 and did a Win7 x64 install on it a few months back. When I realized I forgot to change the BIOS for the AHCI install on it a few weeks later, I did the workaround driver install and regedit to get it rolling on AHCI. Everything went off fine, and my performance jumped up a bit.
Since then, it's seriously degraded. I have read page after page on SSD formatting and reinstallations and there are many schools of thought on the best approach to a complete reinstall with a used SSD.
Anyone have any experience, specifically with a Crucial drive? With Win 7, the majority of what I've read says just delete partition and create a new one during setup, but that doesn't jive with the format prior to OS install crowd. Unfortunately, they have mixed recommendations on how to truly format SSD's. I see posts of people bricking them using 3rd party apps and I cringe, so I'm looking for input before I re-re-reinstall. I picked up a 1TB SATA 6 WD drive for my apps, so it's formatting now. Next step is to blow away the SSD.
So should I just delete part and create new one, possibly use the DISKPART tool from a command prompt or look to a bootable solution to wipe the drive?
The more I research these things, the more my head hurts. I picked up a Crucial C300 and did a Win7 x64 install on it a few months back. When I realized I forgot to change the BIOS for the AHCI install on it a few weeks later, I did the workaround driver install and regedit to get it rolling on AHCI. Everything went off fine, and my performance jumped up a bit.
Since then, it's seriously degraded. I have read page after page on SSD formatting and reinstallations and there are many schools of thought on the best approach to a complete reinstall with a used SSD.
Anyone have any experience, specifically with a Crucial drive? With Win 7, the majority of what I've read says just delete partition and create a new one during setup, but that doesn't jive with the format prior to OS install crowd. Unfortunately, they have mixed recommendations on how to truly format SSD's. I see posts of people bricking them using 3rd party apps and I cringe, so I'm looking for input before I re-re-reinstall. I picked up a 1TB SATA 6 WD drive for my apps, so it's formatting now. Next step is to blow away the SSD.
So should I just delete part and create new one, possibly use the DISKPART tool from a command prompt or look to a bootable solution to wipe the drive?
Reseil said:
If you want full performance, you'd have to do a full format, not just a quick format (deleting partition). However, doing this could degrade the life of the drive a bit.
Just do the partition wiping or full format from the Windows 7 installation.
I've heard of the C300 write speeds degrading a lot over time. Maybe TRIM restores them, or maybe the drive relies on sequential writes. I'm not sure. It all depends on how the individual drives do their garbage collection.
edit: from Anandtech:
Seems like it should be okay with TRIM support. Not sure how long it would take to recoup the performance. One thing to keep in mind is that generally, the fuller your SSD gets, the slower the writes will get (as there is less free space to move files around). SSDs move files around regularly during writes to even the wear over the whole drive, which is why TRIM is important, as it frees up empty space to do so. Usually the drive should recover speed on its own over time as it does garbage collection when idle.
Aruarian Reflection
Chauffeur de la gdlk
I admit that I'm not a daily PC gamer, but I feel like 60 GB for a SSD is more than enough space for most people. I have Win 7 and all my commonly used programs installed on the SSD and it's only half full. If I play a game heavily and load times are bugging me, I'll consider installing it on the SSD but otherwise, my games are installed on my HD and I'm fine with the performance.
Just something to think about for people concerned about how much the big capacity SSDs cost. Getting a cheap, low capacity SSD is still well worth it imo for Windows alone. I'm using an old Vertex 1 SSD for instance.
Just something to think about for people concerned about how much the big capacity SSDs cost. Getting a cheap, low capacity SSD is still well worth it imo for Windows alone. I'm using an old Vertex 1 SSD for instance.
As long as that game's not WoW, yeah. 
About the C300 performance over time, read this:
http://www.anandtech.com/show/3812/the-ssd-diaries-crucials-realssd-c300/8
So first step when reinstalling Windows 7: make sure your firmware is up to date. Beyond that, just let it sort itself out.
About the C300 performance over time, read this:
http://www.anandtech.com/show/3812/the-ssd-diaries-crucials-realssd-c300/8
So first step when reinstalling Windows 7: make sure your firmware is up to date. Beyond that, just let it sort itself out.
reptilescorpio
Member
So what anti-virus should I be running? I've been using AVG for quite sometime. Kinda annoys me how many processes are running all the time.
black_vegeta
Member
reptilescorpio said:
Microsoft Security Essentials. The best out there right now.
Runs light and it's free.
Wolf Akela
Member
It's either Microsoft Security Essentials or Avast, go pick either of them, they're pretty equal.
For firewalls, definitely Comodo.
For firewalls, definitely Comodo.
reptilescorpio
Member
black_vegeta said:
Thanks guys! Downloading MSE and uninstalling AVG in safe mode. Hopefully CCleaner will pick up anything left over.Wolf Akela said:
TheExodu5 said:As long as that game's not WoW, yeah.
About the C300 performance over time, read this:
http://www.anandtech.com/show/3812/the-ssd-diaries-crucials-realssd-c300/8
So first step when reinstalling Windows 7: make sure your firmware is up to date. Beyond that, just let it sort itself out.
You definitely hit the same major questions I had. I actually saw that article in my searches. I should have a better idea once I finish this OS reinstall. I'll keep investigating on the use of 3rd party wipe tools before I go down that route. The drive took the delete / recreate partition just like a normal drive, so now I can test at least before I do the final reinstall.
Rentahamster
Rodent Whores
AwesomeSauce
MagsMoonshine
I think my e4400 overclocked to 3.0ghz is a bottleneck to my gtx 260. I ran the Mafia 2 benchmark at lowest settings and averaged 49 fps and when i ran it at the highest settings minus apex, physx, and aa i averaged 51 fps.
How much would a q6600 help? or should i just ditch the mobo/cpu/ram and go AMD since they have some nicely priced processors.
How much would a q6600 help? or should i just ditch the mobo/cpu/ram and go AMD since they have some nicely priced processors.
Unknown Soldier
Member
AwesomeSauce said:
None of the above. Go Sandy Bridge, or go home!
AwesomeSauce
MagsMoonshine
Unknown Soldier said:
I would if i could.
I'm just making do with what i have at the moment and not look into spending more than 150$ max. Basically if i go the AMD route i'm selling the stuff i have to pay for the new stuff give or take.
Would this RAM be compatible with a P8P67 motherboard running a 2600k most likely?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...k=False&VendorMark=&IsFeedbackTab=true&Page=2
I have that RAM in my system and I'm building a computer for a friend. I ordered triple-channel Dominator for him, not realizing that Sandybridge processors don't support it. If this'll work, I'm just going to stick my RAM in his PC and get it all set up for him so that we can stick in the new RAM and go when he gets the replacement sticks.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...k=False&VendorMark=&IsFeedbackTab=true&Page=2
I have that RAM in my system and I'm building a computer for a friend. I ordered triple-channel Dominator for him, not realizing that Sandybridge processors don't support it. If this'll work, I'm just going to stick my RAM in his PC and get it all set up for him so that we can stick in the new RAM and go when he gets the replacement sticks.
Been sitting on my new pc this last day or so, and it seems I got "lucky" again, everything seems to be working stupendously smooth. OCing the cpu took much less time than I expected although I was hoping to be able to hit 5ghz with a "normal" 24/7 voltage ( contradictory? ), although maybe my 2600k isnt a good clocker. Nonetheless I doubt I'll be running into scenarios where the difference between 4.6 and 5ghz will be like night and day.
My gpus are hitting temps slightly higher than what reviewers get but it's not much of a difference. If my maxtemp for an slisetup is 65 C then I'm satisfied.
My gpus are hitting temps slightly higher than what reviewers get but it's not much of a difference. If my maxtemp for an slisetup is 65 C then I'm satisfied.
Funky Papa
FUNK-Y-PPA-4
Wat? Dude, it's a DVD drive. Plug it, and if it fails, buy another one. We are long past the time when there were "good" and "bad" consumer grade optical drives. And it's not like they get a lot of use in this day and age anyway.Bricfa said:
irishcow said:
I'm using an Accelero Xtreme Plus on my 6950, my load temps with the stock cooler would get into the low 90s but now I rarely even hit 60C. It's also inaudible. You have to order the ram/voltage regulator heatinks separately, and they attach with thermal adhesive so you'll never be able to reattach the stock cooler, but for around $60 total, it's definitely the best bang for your buck.
irishcow said:
Zalman VF3000a
http://www.zalman.co.kr/ENG/product/Product_Read.asp?idx=385
Just verify that it's a reference PCB, or, if custom, has a bolt pattern similar to the reference boards. A lot of AMD and Nvidia partners use non-reference bolt patterns on their custom cards.
Another option would be Arctic Cooling's Accelero Extreme Plus (or Twin Turbo).
Anony said:
Because we want the benefit of having Steam itself on the SSD, since Steam is fairly slow and bloated.
You should try to have all applications on the SSD, or at least all bootup applications.
Symbolic linking all the games individually over to the HDD will give the best performance since that gui file stays on the SSD. If you want a set it and forget it method, all you have to do is link the steamapps folder away.
For anyone planning on getting a non gaming laptop or tablet, I would recommend getting a Asus EP121, especially if you are a graphic designer. The tablet is very fast and responsive. Touch works very well in Windows and the digitizer pen is amazing for drawing / writing. The main negatives are a weak Intel GPU and only 3-4 hrs of battery life.
Windows Experience Index:
Windows Experience Index:
Just throwing this out there - but I'm living just happily with my 120GB Vertex 2. I've mitigated space and wear leveling issues on the SSD by moving the Users folder to a separate 500GB drive, then moving the entire Steam folder to another 500GB drive.
Several good things about moving the Users directory elsewhere - far less temp or cache files being written and erased on the SSD, and a very clean backup/restore process for my media and documents should the OS drive go kaput. I also haven't experienced any noticeable impact to OS boot times or application launches outside of Steam games, which exist only on a mechanical HD. With the whole Creative Suite installed, Office 2010 and a bunch of other 'heavy' applications, my SSD still has 66GB free thanks to this.
My Users folder (sans music, which exists on a separate drive) runs 35 gigs, Steam is 61GB.
Another good tip if you have 8GB of RAM - create a 300MB RAM Disk for browser cache files. Speeds up browser performance a bit and prevents a lot of needless files from littering your HD. Very easy to do on either Windows or OSX.
That is all.
Several good things about moving the Users directory elsewhere - far less temp or cache files being written and erased on the SSD, and a very clean backup/restore process for my media and documents should the OS drive go kaput. I also haven't experienced any noticeable impact to OS boot times or application launches outside of Steam games, which exist only on a mechanical HD. With the whole Creative Suite installed, Office 2010 and a bunch of other 'heavy' applications, my SSD still has 66GB free thanks to this.
My Users folder (sans music, which exists on a separate drive) runs 35 gigs, Steam is 61GB.
Another good tip if you have 8GB of RAM - create a 300MB RAM Disk for browser cache files. Speeds up browser performance a bit and prevents a lot of needless files from littering your HD. Very easy to do on either Windows or OSX.
That is all.
knitoe said:For anyone planning on getting a non gaming laptop or tablet, I would recommend getting a Asus EP121, especially if you are a graphic designer. The tablet is very fast and responsive. Touch works very well in Windows and the digitizer pen is amazing for drawing / writing. The main negatives are a weak Intel GPU and only 3-4 hrs of battery life.
Windows Experience Index:
I like my HP tm2t for someone who wants a keyboard on their tablet (screen twists and lies flat). I can't stand typing on a big touchscreen. Plus it has switchable graphics if you do want to play some games. It gets 4hrs+ battery life also. It does weigh a pound or so more than the Asus though. Cost me <$800 back in November.
Sanic
Member
I previously posted about how I wasn't getting ideal performance out of JC2. With everything maxed, I was getting about 30fps in most situations with a GTX 460. It seemed I was being cpu limited, as I was getting similar benchmark results regardless of resolution and settings.
So, I bought a new proc, this, and got around to installing it today. The problem is, i'm not really seeing much better results in JC2 or any other game i've tried. In JC2 i'm only getting about a 10-15fps performance increase in most situations, and in some the game still hovers around 30. Same thing with TF2 and The Witcher.
I just want to understand if these kinds of results are to be expected? I know I purchased a lower end proc, but I guess I was expecting better results jumping from my 4.5 year old dual core to a modern quad core. Could there theoretically be anything else causing issues?\
So, I bought a new proc, this, and got around to installing it today. The problem is, i'm not really seeing much better results in JC2 or any other game i've tried. In JC2 i'm only getting about a 10-15fps performance increase in most situations, and in some the game still hovers around 30. Same thing with TF2 and The Witcher.
I just want to understand if these kinds of results are to be expected? I know I purchased a lower end proc, but I guess I was expecting better results jumping from my 4.5 year old dual core to a modern quad core. Could there theoretically be anything else causing issues?\
Hi. I currently have:
Basic Desktop Questions
Your Current Specs: E7400 oc'd to 3.8ghz/ 4gb ddr2 / asus p5wdh-deluxe/ gtx 560 just RMA'd for a 6950 because it was giving artifact /3 hard drives / koolance water cooled tower.
I have a OCZ 520W PSU that is 600 watts max rated.
I'm upgrading to p8p67 deluxe, 2500k, 8gb ddr3, 6950 likely flashed to 6970, 2 hard drives, and 1 dvdrw. I will be overclocking the 2500k.
My question is, do I need a new PSU or will my 520W ocz be good for now? It's really a great power supply and has treated me well.
Thanks.
Basic Desktop Questions
Your Current Specs: E7400 oc'd to 3.8ghz/ 4gb ddr2 / asus p5wdh-deluxe/ gtx 560 just RMA'd for a 6950 because it was giving artifact /3 hard drives / koolance water cooled tower.
I have a OCZ 520W PSU that is 600 watts max rated.
I'm upgrading to p8p67 deluxe, 2500k, 8gb ddr3, 6950 likely flashed to 6970, 2 hard drives, and 1 dvdrw. I will be overclocking the 2500k.
My question is, do I need a new PSU or will my 520W ocz be good for now? It's really a great power supply and has treated me well.
Thanks.
brain_stew
Member
Massively.AwesomeSauce said:
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