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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|

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Pocks

Member
Shambles said:
Move the motherboard up to something that is using a chipset release with onboard video of the radeon 4200 or higher. The 785 chipset introduced better video decoding. It will hack any sort of video playback or streaming, you won't need a discrete GPU. If the motherboard support ACC unlock you also have a chance of turning that dual core into a triple or quad core.

BIOSTAR A880G+ AM3 AMD 880G HDMI Micro ATX AMD Motherboard $70
GIGABYTE GA-880GM-D2H AM3 AMD 880G HDMI Micro ATX AMD Motherboard $80

I went with the BIOSTAR mobo.

I'm now trying to figure out how to hook up her computer to her SDTV. The TV does have component inputs, but I'm unsure of what type of converter I need. Based on some research I've done, it seems that a DVI-to-RCA won't work. Would I have better luck with a VGA-to-RCA?

Unfortunately, getting an HDTV is not an option.
 

TheExodu5

Banned
I'm pretty sure VGA to component is doable.

I may be wrong, but I think component is the equivalent of VGA minus some synchronization pins.
 

Hawk269

Member
Coldsnap said:
Yah, I can see it on the sides. Clamping the motherboard is way too tight it seems, i shouldn't have clamped down.

Those notches right above where you circled should of matched up with the notches on the mother board. If they did not and then you clamped down, that is what caused it. You put the CPU in wrong. There were also things in the corner on the CPU itself that should of matched with identical markings on the motherboard to match up to ensure it was going in the right way.

Unless I am totally wrong, it sounds like the cpu is busted now...I am still a noob at this stuff, but to me, phyical depressions that were not there before but are there now sounds like the cpu is damaged.
 

Coldsnap

Member
Hawk269 said:
Those notches right above where you circled should of matched up with the notches on the mother board. If they did not and then you clamped down, that is what caused it. You put the CPU in wrong. There were also things in the corner on the CPU itself that should of matched with identical markings on the motherboard to match up to ensure it was going in the right way.

Unless I am totally wrong, it sounds like the cpu is busted now...I am still a noob at this stuff, but to me, phyical depressions that were not there before but are there now sounds like the cpu is damaged.

Yea, this isn't my first time putting in a cpu. It was laying correcting when i latched it in.
 

Kyaw

Member
Guys, my computer seems to be locking up on startup as the startup programs load (cant ctrl+alt+del, have to hard reset). It seems random as well. Any ideas?
 

Omiee

Member
pc-gaf i have a question about satelite tv on your pc.
i want one of those pci things you can hook up to your motherboard, and than you can put in a card and connect it to your dish outside so you can get satelite tv.
because al jazeera has this awesome deal of 70 euro's a year and you get all football games and basketball and other games.
so whats my best pick, if i want hd content as well.

so dvb-s on my pc with an option to insert a card.
 

Hawk269

Member
Coldsnap said:
Yea, this isn't my first time putting in a cpu. It was laying correcting when i latched it in.

Not sure what could of caused those issues on the CPU unless there was something faulty with the mb clamp of something like that. Eathier way, I am sorry to hear you are having these issues. I know it is frustrating, but hopefully a resolution will present itself.
 

Coldsnap

Member
Hawk269 said:
Not sure what could of caused those issues on the CPU unless there was something faulty with the mb clamp of something like that. Eathier way, I am sorry to hear you are having these issues. I know it is frustrating, but hopefully a resolution will present itself.

Thanks for the info though. I should have someone that knows PCs to check it out before i attempt an RMA.
 

TheExodu5

Banned
Kyaw said:
Guys, my computer seems to be locking up on startup as the startup programs load (cant ctrl+alt+del, have to hard reset). It seems random as well. Any ideas?
That, sadly, could be caused by a lot of things. GPU, CPU, memory, drivers, file system, HDD.

I would start off with trying to see the CPU or GPU temps. Make sure they're within spec. You can try booting in safe mode as well.
 

Smokey

Member
Funky Papa said:
*Shut up. I'm trying to rationalize it*

I finally bit the bullet. After having no success finding a spare 120GB Vertex 3 in my neck of the woods, I went out and ordered the 240GB version. It has to last me for at least another build, so considering that Windows 8 should leave a heavier footprint, plus MS Office, plus Service Packs, plus all the other work crap I use, there would be barely any free space for games if I went with the 120GB one.

Oh well.

lool

:high five

go for broke :)
not literally...hope you're not!
 

Kyaw

Member
CPU and GPU temps are fine. I booted into safe mode without anything else. Loaded up fine.
I just checked the startup order and cleaned registry and temp files, it loaded fine after that. Dunno this is like the third time which happened in this month.
 

Pocks

Member
TheExodu5 said:
I'm pretty sure VGA to component is doable.

I may be wrong, but I think component is the equivalent of VGA minus some synchronization pins.

Monoprice has a great price on a VGA-to-Component, but the description warns about incompatibility with TVs and Monitors — http://www.monoprice.com/products/email_friend.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10235&cs_id=1023503&p_id=2170

Monoprice support is saying it will only work if my "... computer can actively convert the signal from VGA, to the component signal."

I looked through the manual on BIOSTAR's website, but I didn't see anything specific.

EDIT: He suggested an active converter (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10114&cs_id=1011407&p_id=4724) — I will get that unless someone can let me know that the ATI Radeon™ HD 4250 (onboard graphics) is capable of supporting RCA/TV out through the VGA port.
 

Coldsnap

Member
Heres the picture of the core, you can see the dents.

ifr1us.jpg
 

Sarcasm

Member
Omiee said:
is there a way to delete all the windows files on my hdd since i have windows installed on my ssd now?

I would just format the drive. Thats after making sure I have the files I want to keep.
 

Zeliard

Member
How does Windows 7 generally handle a mobo upgrade without a clean install (both are Intel but it's more than a single-gen upgrade)? Been seeing mixed messages. I'm backing up important stuff regardless, but I'd rather not do a clean install unless I have to.
 

Omiee

Member
TheExodu5 said:
Make sure you back up your old Users folder. Never know what saved games you might have in there.


yeah i bought a western digital external hdd like some of you suggested for my important files, and i backed up pictures movies and save files there.
going to format it now.
is a 5400rpm hdd good for games?
 

TheExodu5

Banned
Omiee said:
yeah i bought a western digital external hdd like some of you suggested for my important files, and i backed up pictures movies and save files there.
going to format it now.
is a 5400rpm hdd good for games?

It'll be fine. I'm running most of my games off a 2TB 5400RPM HDD. I generally put multiplayer or streaming games on the SSD for fast loading.
 

Omiee

Member
TheExodu5 said:
It'll be fine. I'm running most of my games off a 2TB 5400RPM HDD. I generally put multiplayer or streaming games on the SSD for fast loading.


yeah i was going to pick a 2tb samsung one tomorrow. Im making my finishing touches on my pc before its done.
 

knitoe

Member
Coldsnap said:
well shit.. it seems like my clamp was probably messed up and now that messed up my core.
I still don't think it's the CPU. Last time I reseated my heatsink, I also saw similiar marks where the clamp push down on the 2600K CPU. Doubtful, the clamps would provide enough force to damage the CPU unless you put the CPU in the wrong direction.

Take the MB out of your case and put it on the MB box to eliminate grounding issue with your case. With just CPU, MB, PSU and heatsink/fan, try to turn it on. See if you get any CPU fan action. If yes, put them back in your case and retest. If no, you know it's either CPU, MB or PSU. Most times, it's the MB.
 

scogoth

Member
Coldsnap said:
well shit.. it seems like my clamp was probably messed up and now that messed up my core.

Yeah don't think its dead. RMA the mobo or CPU or if you can somehow test the CPU in another mobo of a friends or something to see if it works.
 

TheExodu5

Banned
eznark said:
The 6g/s ones? I think they're probably too expensive or I'd have to give up too much space.

Corsair Force 120 GB for $200 still good?

It's fine, yeah. You could get the Intel 320 120GB for $240 though. It's a 3Gb/s drive, but you're getting Intel reliability.
 

eznark

Banned
TheExodu5 said:
It's fine, yeah. You could get the Intel 320 120GB for $240 though. It's a 3Gb/s drive, but you're getting Intel reliability.

What is the difference between the X25 and the 320? Nevermind, X25 is old. I went with the 320, thanks for the heads up. Everything is ordered!

Newegg -delivered next week :(

1 x ($349.99) VGA ASUS|ENGTX570 DCII/2DIS/1280MD5
$349.99
1 x ($99.99) MEM 4Gx2|GSKILL F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL
$99.99
1 x ($229.99) MTR GATEWAY|LED 24" 5MS FHX2402LBID
$229.99
1 x ($164.99) PSU CORSAIR|CMPSU-850HX 850W RT
$164.99
1 x ($99.99) WIN HOME PREMIUM 7 64-BIT OEM - OEM
$99.99
1 x ($14.99) THM COMPOUND ARCTIC COOLING|AC-MX4
$14.99
1 x ($234.99) SSD 120G|INTEL SSDSA2CW120G310 % - OEM
$234.99

MicroCenter (picking up tomorrow!)
Intel Core i5 2500K LGA 1155 Boxed Processor 1 $179.99
SKU: 200121
ASUS P8P67 Pro-R3 LGA 1155 ATX Intel Motherboard 1 $189.99
SKU: 292516
ASUS 24x Internal DVD±RW SATA Writer 1 $29.99
SKU: 407361
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus Universal CPU Cooler 1 $29.99
SKU: 303198
Corsair Memory Obsidian Series 650D Mid Tower ATX ... 1 $199.99
SKU: 229799
 

eznark

Banned
TheExodu5 said:
Looking good! Make sure to post pics when its up and running. :)
Will definitely do. How do you guys manage your ssd drives? Just the OS or put everything on there til it's full?
 

scogoth

Member
Coldsnap said:
Well good news, computer is up and running; false alarm. Turns out center cpus work fine and it was suppose to be that tight

What changed to make it work? Just in case someone else has the same problem.
 

TheExodu5

Banned
eznark said:
Will definitely do. How do you guys manage your ssd drives? Just the OS or put everything on there til it's full?

OS + applications.

If I need to move folders off the drive, I create symbolic links and move them off the drive. I use this program:

http://schinagl.priv.at/nt/hardlinkshellext/hardlinkshellext.html

It adds options to the right click context menu. If I want to move a folder off, I copy it to my HDD. I right click it and click "Pick Link Source". I then drop it to where it was on the SSD by right clicking and choosing "Drop As -> Symbolic Link".

Basically, a symbolic link is a shortcut that makes the OS think you're still on the drive where it's located. For example, if I copy C:\Games\Steam\steamapps to D:\Games\steamapps and drop it as a symbolic link back at C:\Games\Steam\steamapps, when I go to that folder, Windows will still think I'm on the C: drive, even though the files are all located on the D:\ drive.

Sorry I'm so bad at explaining this. >_<
 

TheExodu5

Banned
eznark said:
I wish I could have steam games on different drives.

That's the whole point. You can move stuff back and forth in between drives without worrying about breaking registry settings or anything. I can move Steam games to different drives and Steam thinks they're all in the same place.

My steamapps folder as a symbolic link:
slink1.png


The actual location of my steamapps folder:
slink2.png


What it looks like when I go into the steamapps folder from the C: drive...Windows still thinks we're on the C: drive even though we're in the folder on my E: drive:
slinks.png


If I then want to take one of the Steam games on my E: drive and move it to my SSD, I copy it to my C: drive and drop it back in the steamapps folder on the E: drive as a symbolic link.

For Steam, I believe there's a utility that will manage these symbolic links for you if you don't want to do it manually, but it will only work for Steam. I forget what it's called...
 
I'm trying to figure out how far the 40 GB Intel 320 SSD can get me when I build my computer in July. I'd like to put W7 on there, Office, Chrome, and Starcraft 2. From what I've read, W7 suggests about 19 GB of free space for the OS itself, does that sound about right?
 

Coldsnap

Member
Is there a cheap way to get a Windows 7 poduct key online? I got windows installed but it turns out they have changed it to where you cannot activate with an upgrade product key.

Also where can i download the most recent drivers for the GTX 460? Mine didn't come with a disc
 

TheExodu5

Banned
Coldsnap said:
Is there a cheap way to get a Windows 7 poduct key online? I got windows installed but it turns out they have changed it to where you cannot activate with an upgrade product key.

Also where can i download the most recent drivers for the GTX 460? Mine didn't come with a disc

First question: not sure, sorry.

Second question: http://www.nvidia.com

Soka said:
I'm trying to figure out how far the 40 GB Intel 320 SSD can get me when I build my computer in July. I'd like to put W7 on there, Office, Chrome, and Starcraft 2. From what I've read, W7 suggests about 19 GB of free space for the OS itself, does that sound about right?

You should be able to do it (maybe...), but it will be a tight fit with SC2. I have 33GB of games on my 80GB drive, and that's a very tight fit. You'll probably need to manage things like temp folders and symbolic link them off to another drive.

TBH, you probably won't get that much benefit from having SC2 on the SSD. Faster loading, but besides that, SC2 doesn't stream any data so you won't notice anything once you're in game. The 40GB drive probably doesn't have very fast sequential loading either, so I don't think games will load much faster. The 40GB drive is mostly meant for housing the OS only (+ apps like Office).
 
Thanks for the advice, TheExodu5. I'm a good 3 months out from building this thing, but have been following this thread to try and keep up-to-date on new components and builds. I feel like I have most of what I'm looking to purchase in place, just waiting to see if Bulldozer mixes things up any from my current 2500k plan.
 

scogoth

Member
Coldsnap said:
Is there a cheap way to get a Windows 7 poduct key online? I got windows installed but it turns out they have changed it to where you cannot activate with an upgrade product key.

Here you can buy a dl version or disc version of Windows. Just enter the key you get on your current install and everything should be fine.
 

eznark

Banned
TheExodu5 said:
That's the whole point. You can move stuff back and forth in between drives without worrying about breaking registry settings or anything. I can move Steam games to different drives and Steam thinks they're all in the same place.

My steamapps folder as a symbolic link:


If I then want to take one of the Steam games on my E: drive and move it to my SSD, I copy it to my C: drive and drop it back in the steamapps folder on the E: drive as a symbolic link.

For Steam, I believe there's a utility that will manage these symbolic links for you if you don't want to do it manually, but it will only work for Steam. I forget what it's called...

Bookmarked, THANKS! Seems awesome.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Soka said:
Thanks for the advice, TheExodu5. I'm a good 3 months out from building this thing, but have been following this thread to try and keep up-to-date on new components and builds. I feel like I have most of what I'm looking to purchase in place, just waiting to see if Bulldozer mixes things up any from my current 2500k plan.
Well in 3 months Bulldozer should be out (Mid June) so you'll know.
 

Coldsnap

Member
So now that I got my computer to my desktop, have all driver installed, what are some of the programs I should download to test everything? Memtest is a must, but what about stuff for core and video card. I have a GTX 460
 

scogoth

Member
Coldsnap said:
So now that I got my computer to my desktop, have all driver installed, what are some of the programs I should download to test everything? Memtest is a must, but what about stuff for core and video card. I have a GTX 460

Furmark, CPU-Z, GPU-Z, Prime95, Realtemp, MSI afterburner(works for all GPUs not just MSI's)
 

Slavik81

Member
TheExodu5 said:
That's the whole point. You can move stuff back and forth in between drives without worrying about breaking registry settings or anything. I can move Steam games to different drives and Steam thinks they're all in the same place.

My steamapps folder as a symbolic link:
http://www.thejayzone.com/pics/slink1.png

The actual location of my steamapps folder:
http://www.thejayzone.com/pics/slink2.png

What it looks like when I go into the steamapps folder from the C: drive...Windows still thinks we're on the C: drive even though we're in the folder on my E: drive:
http://www.thejayzone.com/pics/slinks.png

If I then want to take one of the Steam games on my E: drive and move it to my SSD, I copy it to my C: drive and drop it back in the steamapps folder on the E: drive as a symbolic link.

For Steam, I believe there's a utility that will manage these symbolic links for you if you don't want to do it manually, but it will only work for Steam. I forget what it's called...
Unfortunately, putting steamapps on your data drive means that winui.gcf will be there too. Even if you symlink it back, to find where it is, steam has to visit the data drive.
 

scogoth

Member
Slavik81 said:
Unfortunately, putting steamapps on your data drive means that winui.gcf will be there too. Even if you symlink it back, to find where it is, steam has to visit the data drive.

Put only the game data on the data drive leave the root steamapps folder on the ssd. That way you can leave some games on the ssd that you want fast loading in.
 
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