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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|
- Thread starter Hazaro
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I have an SSD and a 7200 RPM drive. I don't remember how it was set up at first since I had a friend do it. I'll have to try just having the SSD plugged in later today.Krauser Kat said:
xero: Yeah, I can see all my drives in the BIOS and have the boot priority set to boot from my SSD first then DVD drive second.
i need expert opinions on an occurance today ...
was browsing the web. running Steam and torrents at the time in the background. pc had been turned on for about 4 hours at the time ...all of a sudden it just turns off. about 5 seconds later, it turns itself back on like nothing happened.
about 5 to 10 seconds after the pc turned off. the lights in the room flickered briefly.
cable modem looked to be reset and my router had to be rebooted in order to work properly.
sounds like a power dip to me ...what about you?
i'm asking because the same thing happened on two other occasions ...a few months ago during a winter storm, and one other time when the lights flickered again.
now it might sound like i'm answering my own question, but i'm a little paranoid. is the PSU faulty?
it has me wondering, because the times that the power dipped, it didn't completely seem to go out, as the digital clocks in the house weren't reset, etc. the time on the microwave oven wasn't flashing or anything ...heh.
i'm also wondering too, because i don't remember my old PC, that i had for 4 years, doing that ever.
had this pc for about 7 months at the most and it happened 3 different times.
could a power dip cause the pc to turn off, and the only other thing that happens is the lights in the room flicker briefly?
pc has an Antec Truepower New 750w blue psu.
i5 760 not overclocked, but has turbo enabled.
gtx 460 1gig cards in SLI
sound card
4gig ram
2 hard drives
and that's about the extent of things. nothing extra special.
was browsing the web. running Steam and torrents at the time in the background. pc had been turned on for about 4 hours at the time ...all of a sudden it just turns off. about 5 seconds later, it turns itself back on like nothing happened.
about 5 to 10 seconds after the pc turned off. the lights in the room flickered briefly.
cable modem looked to be reset and my router had to be rebooted in order to work properly.
sounds like a power dip to me ...what about you?
i'm asking because the same thing happened on two other occasions ...a few months ago during a winter storm, and one other time when the lights flickered again.
now it might sound like i'm answering my own question, but i'm a little paranoid. is the PSU faulty?
it has me wondering, because the times that the power dipped, it didn't completely seem to go out, as the digital clocks in the house weren't reset, etc. the time on the microwave oven wasn't flashing or anything ...heh.
i'm also wondering too, because i don't remember my old PC, that i had for 4 years, doing that ever.
had this pc for about 7 months at the most and it happened 3 different times.
could a power dip cause the pc to turn off, and the only other thing that happens is the lights in the room flicker briefly?
pc has an Antec Truepower New 750w blue psu.
i5 760 not overclocked, but has turbo enabled.
gtx 460 1gig cards in SLI
sound card
4gig ram
2 hard drives
and that's about the extent of things. nothing extra special.
ithorien said:
I think my bios boots twice. I see the same ASUS splash screen twice. Windows takes about twice as long to boot up as it did on my old build as well. I'm using a fresh install on the same HD. Kind of annoying. I just figured since this is all new tech it will hopefully get fixed in time with Bios updates etc.
I think it would be interesting to try in a build with multiple SSDs and HDDs. If you already have an SSD for OS, various programs that use a large number of files and are not into raiding HDDs for your other data. Not exactly cost-effective, but worth a try for some people who aren't happy with the relative sluggishness of their non-OS drives.TheExodu5 said:
black_vegeta
Member
Do the GigaByte p67 boards have the same BIOS boot problem as the ASUS mobos?
I have a Gigabyte P67-UD4 (not the B3 revision), and my 2500k is overclocked to 4.6GHz. I'll give it a shot tonight.
One thing to note is that on regular bootup, even though the Gigabyte doesn't double boot, the AHCI posting takes a while with the Gigabyte board. It probably takes 15-20 seconds until I reach the Windows loading screen.
One thing to note is that on regular bootup, even though the Gigabyte doesn't double boot, the AHCI posting takes a while with the Gigabyte board. It probably takes 15-20 seconds until I reach the Windows loading screen.
Gah, my new i5 2500 fan is probably the loudest thing in my case at the moment (some people not in this forum told me it was a quiet stock fan); I keep it running at 40% with speedfan. I am selling my older PC for a bit more than expected ($230) so I'm looking to buy a heatsink fan. I see most of these fans are based towards people overclocking, I'm doing zero overclocking with my computer so I'm really interested in quiet and efficient airflow. If I can get the same amount of airflow that my stock cooler gives while running at 50% and it be virtually silent I would be one happy man.
I saw a recomendation for this one a few pages back, what would be my best choice?
poking around on silentpreview at the moment, good site.
I saw a recomendation for this one a few pages back, what would be my best choice?
poking around on silentpreview at the moment, good site.
Coldsnap said:
If you want quiet but want to keep the cost low, the Scythe Mugen 2 is pretty amazing. It's a bitch to install though, since it has to screw in directly into the backplate, whereas a lot of the newer coolers have a mounging system that you can attach just with thumb screws before putting in the heatsink.
knitoe said:
Agreed. I did use diskpart to set up the partition so it was clean.
Then did a low level partition clone on the Windows 7 system reserved, and main drive.
The only trouble I had was needing to recreate the boot loader on the system reserved drive which I had to use bcdedit for.
It would be nice to test the speed of my ssd though, any suggestions?
TheExodu5 said:
Ah, I need something easy to install or I will break something on accident. I was just looking at the Mugen too, i liked the price it's in my ideal range. Can it be installed on an R3 too because it has no backplate under the fan?
I also have a Asus P8H67, so i dont have a lot of room to play around with.
RumblingRosco
Member
In preparation of building my new computer this summer, I want to sell one of my old laptops. Obviously, I want to wipe as much personal info off of it as possible, but still leave Windows on there. Any suggestions for programs I can use to handle this?
Anyone use a Seagate Momentus XT (hybrid drive here)? Aside from firmware issues, how is it performance wise? Everyone just bitches about Seagates sucks, which isn't true, so it's hard to find relevant information.
Although Windows Experience Index isn't the best way to benchmark, it gives it a 5.9.
Although Windows Experience Index isn't the best way to benchmark, it gives it a 5.9.
Salacious Crumb
Junior Member
So it turns out I may have stumbled across a decent clocking CPU for the first time in my life:
That's with +0.050 offset volts, the maximum I've seen it get to is 1.320v, but that seems to happen very rarely. I ran the blended test in prime for just over 17 hours with no errors.
I'll let the burn test go through a full 20 cycles and if it passes that can I assume this is stable? It just doesn't seem right, every other person I've seen at 4.8 has needed their volts to be closer to 1.37-1.40 to make it stable.
That's with +0.050 offset volts, the maximum I've seen it get to is 1.320v, but that seems to happen very rarely. I ran the blended test in prime for just over 17 hours with no errors.
I'll let the burn test go through a full 20 cycles and if it passes that can I assume this is stable? It just doesn't seem right, every other person I've seen at 4.8 has needed their volts to be closer to 1.37-1.40 to make it stable.
Salacious Crumb said:
nice clocks/voltage
but have you installed (win7) Service Pack 1 ?with SP1 you get AVX instructions, which should bump your GFlops into the 100-range ... which I assume also means it increases the stress level
also with Prime I always run small FFTs for cpu only testing
For people whom have problems with sleep / hibernate with sandy bridge, you need to disable Internal PLL. It's a known issue with Intel's CPU micro code which Intel has to personally correct. Unless you are trying to get extreme o/c speeds (4.8+ GHz to get pass the wall), it's not required o/c. Even then, for some, it's not needed at all.
And, for Asus double splash screen, it's because of the two controllers being used. If you disable the Marvell controller, you will only see one splash screen.
And, for Asus double splash screen, it's because of the two controllers being used. If you disable the Marvell controller, you will only see one splash screen.
knitoe said:
Can't believe I didn't find this eariler- http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?p=1037045458
I'll have to try that, even though I have issues at 4.4.
Salacious Crumb
Junior Member
n0n44m said:nice clocks/voltage
with SP1 you get AVX instructions, which should bump your GFlops into the 100-range ... which I assume also means it increases the stress level
also with Prime I always run small FFTs for cpu only testing
I already had SP1 installed but the linpack binary needed to be updated.
What is this trickery!
LOOK AT ALL THEM FLOPS!
And you're definitely right about it increasing the stress level, my volts now jump to 1.328, but again very rarely, and hover around 1.296-1.312 and look at that temp increase. It all seems to be within acceptable levels though and so far at least, it has remained stable.
blanky said:
"Usually ships within 2 to 4 weeks."
There was this one:
Corsair Graphite Series 600T Mid-Tower Gaming Case CC600T
But I don't know if a ATX motherboard works on that.
I also see a bunch of cooler master cases, but I don't know about them.
ithorien said:
Hehe sorry, didn't see this before.
They don't like credit cards from international banks.
Edit:
Corsair's website confirms that ATX motherboards are compatible.
Hi GAF,
I kind of want to upgrade my PC but I am not sure. I have a Core 2 Quad Q6600 @ 2.4 GHz, Asus P5Q Pro, Sapphire Radeon 4870 with 512 MB and 6 GB of RAM, Win 7 64-bit Pro.
I was told that the processor and motherboard combo is good for overclocking, so I could buy a better CPU cooler and try my luck with OC. Games I want to play include Brink and The Witcher 2 off the top of my head. Probably some Battlefield 3 action later on. I also need a new case because some of the CPU coolers I looked at will probably not fit. What do you say? Wait a little longer?
edit: thx for all the answers so far!
I kind of want to upgrade my PC but I am not sure. I have a Core 2 Quad Q6600 @ 2.4 GHz, Asus P5Q Pro, Sapphire Radeon 4870 with 512 MB and 6 GB of RAM, Win 7 64-bit Pro.
I was told that the processor and motherboard combo is good for overclocking, so I could buy a better CPU cooler and try my luck with OC. Games I want to play include Brink and The Witcher 2 off the top of my head. Probably some Battlefield 3 action later on. I also need a new case because some of the CPU coolers I looked at will probably not fit. What do you say? Wait a little longer?
edit: thx for all the answers so far!
banKai said:
Your GPU needs an upgrade, stat. You're at bare minimum for Witcher. Buy something solid (6950->70 / GX570), carry over into next PC.
The Witcher 2 Miminum System Requirements:
· OS: Windows XP SP2 / Windows Vista SP2 / Windows 7 (32/64-bit)
· Processor: Intel Core 2 Duo 2.2 Ghz or AMD Athlon 64 X2 5000+
· Memory: 1 GB Windows XP / 2 GB Windows Vista and Windows 7
· Video Card: 512 MB RAM, supporting Pixel Shader 3.0 (Nvidia GeForce 8800 or ATI Radeon HD3850)
banKai said:
From my experience you don't need to upgrade right away but probably want to start thinking about it. I have the same setup with half the RAM and a 4890 and was surprised how well Crysis 2 ran on the middle setting. Was going to upgrade right away till I tried it in fact. Now put it off for a bit so I get more for my money/save some.
That board and CPU should be good for at least a 1GHz overclock. Higher if you have willing components, proper cooling and a bit of extra voltage.banKai said:
Like ithorien said, you can pick up a GPU now and use it in your eventual upgrade. The Q6600 is still very capable. If your case has good cooling but only lacks space for a large tower cooler, you can pick up a lower profile cooler, OC the Q6600, add a new card and ride things out until you feel like you need a new ground up upgrade.
After looking at the Mugen 2 and the Coolmaster 212+, I'm thinking about maybe going with a medium size cpu fan instead. One with the design of the stock fan but a tad cooler and quieter. Mugen 2 looks really nice but it seems like a large heatsink to put in a computer that wont get overclocked and also is a micro motherboard, and i can save some money.
Scythe has some good looking medium size cpu fans... any recommendations?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...85097&cm_re=scythe_usa-_-35-185-097-_-Product
Scythe has some good looking medium size cpu fans... any recommendations?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...85097&cm_re=scythe_usa-_-35-185-097-_-Product
I was thinking about a real upgrade after my summer job at EA and then buy everything in September. BUT! The big problem also is that I want to play all the upcoming games with most of the details but as of late I don't really have the time anymore. It kinda sucks because new hardware is always cool xD
Low Profile: Scythe Shuriken, Scythe Big Shuriken, Cooler Master GeminII S, Prolimatech Samuel 17, Thermalright AXP-140, Noctua NH-C14, othersColdsnap said:
92mm "Mini Tower:" Xigmatek HDT-S963 (or any of their various 92mm HDT models), OCZ Vendetta , Noctua NH-U9B (or any of the NH-U series), Cooler Master Hyper TX-3, others
You can also just go with custom or pre-fab water cooling if you don't want a tower cooler.
Keep in mind the smaller the heatsink, the less it will cool, and the louder it will potentially be (though fan control plays a big part in this as well). Still, something like the Freezer 7 should be a marked improvement over stock. The nice thing about the Freezer 7 for you is that is just uses the plastic push pins, which means you won't have to take your motherboard out to do the swap.
Well if it's anything like the Mugen, the problem is that you basically need someone holding the heatsink and motherboard together while you screw in the backplate. It's an easy 2 person job, but a tough 1 person job.
With my Venomous X, I just had to pinch the backplate and frontplate together and use thumb screws. The difference is the Scythes don't use a frontplate mounting system. They simply mount the heatsink directly to the backplate. This makes it very solid, but it just really sucks to install. The Mugen 2, on top of that, is just plain massive, which makes things even harder.
With my Venomous X, I just had to pinch the backplate and frontplate together and use thumb screws. The difference is the Scythes don't use a frontplate mounting system. They simply mount the heatsink directly to the backplate. This makes it very solid, but it just really sucks to install. The Mugen 2, on top of that, is just plain massive, which makes things even harder.
It does.Coldsnap said:
Depends on the budget, case size and type of build. The Shurikens are proven and perform well for their size and price. Noctua's NH-C14 is nice, but pricey and not suited to some users.claviertekky said:
Scythe also has a newer model with what's suppsoed to be a simplified mounting mechanism.
Scythe Kozuti (SCKZT-1000) "only 40mm in height"
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