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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|

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Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Coldsnap said:
well my concern is fitting it on my small motherboard, I went with the P8H67 to save some money and my spu fan runs right up to my ram. Looking at the inside of my case I'm pretty sure I can't fit a shuriken, it would bump into my ram.

jude8l.jpg
Someone already said it, but you'll want to make sure that all your pins are locked.
At least one of them is not secure.
Aselith said:
At the end of the video, he shows 2 Ethernet ports on the board...can you run two internet cables and gain bandwidth from both? o:
If you pay two ISP's and do a ton of configuring and it's doubled bandwidth, not speed.
I might have no idea what I'm talking about.
 

Corky

Nine out of ten orphans can't tell the difference.
hey guys, two questions.

1) Right now I'm running my ram at 1333 and 1.65v ( it's rated for 1600 mhz ). What I wonder is, hypothetically, which scenario will give better stability, underclocked at rated voltage or stock clock at rated voltage?

2) Also, asked this before but I'mma try again. What's the "math" behind using offset cpu voltage? Right now I'm on ( I believe ) +0.006v. How does this later become 1v idle and 1.36v during load? ( as opposed to just manually typing in 1.4 and it being 1.4v no matter what )
 

knitoe

Member
Corky said:
hey guys, two questions.

1) Right now I'm running my ram at 1333 and 1.65v ( it's rated for 1600 mhz ). What I wonder is, hypothetically, which scenario will give better stability, underclocked at rated voltage or stock clock at rated voltage?
Some people have problems running ram@1.65V on sandy bridge, prefer 1.5V ram. If you don't have any issue, you could get a slight performance gain by trying at the ram's rated 1600mhz@1.65V

Corky said:
2) Also, asked this before but I'mma try again. What's the "math" behind using offset cpu voltage? Right now I'm on ( I believe ) +0.006v. How does this later become 1v idle and 1.36v during load? ( as opposed to just manually typing in 1.4 and it being 1.4v no matter what )
In you case, Offset allows the CPU to use less voltage = less heat = save on electric bill when it down clocks the CPU speed (1V@idle) and increase will it o/c (1.36V@load). If you set it at 1.4V manually, it will always run at that voltage = more heat = higher electric bill...Obviously, it's better to use offset.
 

Corky

Nine out of ten orphans can't tell the difference.
knitoe said:
In you case, Offset allows the CPU to use less voltage = less heat = save on electric bill when it down clocks CPU speed (1V@idle) and increase will it o/c (1.36V@load). If you set it at 1.4V manually, it will always run at that voltage = more heat = higher electric bill...Obviously, it's better to use offset.

Ah soo far soo good, but I was more thinking about what would happen if I ran offset in let's say 0.005v or 0.007v, compared to 0.006v, what would the end result of this be? Voltagewise ofc.
 

knitoe

Member
Corky said:
Ah soo far soo good, but I was more thinking about what would happen if I ran offset in let's say 0.005v or 0.007v, compared to 0.006v, what would the end result of this be? Voltagewise ofc.
If you don't take into account other settings that could affect voltage total, lowering you voltage by 0.005V would lower your idle to 0.999 and you load to 1.35V. If you increase to 0.007, it will be reverse, 1.001V idle and 1.37V load. It's a way to add/remove voltage to make you o/c stable.
 

Salacious Crumb

Junior Member
knitoe said:
Nice chip. I would just run Prime95 with small fft. Also, run HWmonitor to show min / max voltage and temp used.

zFcmP.png


That's only after two hours but I don't see it changing much from that, I already know it's prime stable for 17 hours.
 

knitoe

Member
Salacious Crumb said:
That's only after two hours but I don't see it changing much from that, I already know it's prime stable for 17 hours.
Since you have such a great chip, have you tried 5GHz?
 

Salacious Crumb

Junior Member
knitoe said:
Since you have such a great chip, have you tried 5GHz?

Tried with up to +.175 offset and it still wasn't stable, it just doesn't seem worth it when it only takes +0.055 to make 4.8Ghz 100% stable. Maybe my Mobo is a limiting factor? I'm just using the standard non-pro P8P67.
 

knitoe

Member
Salacious Crumb said:
Tried with up to +.175 offset and it still wasn't stable, it just doesn't seem worth it when it only takes +0.055 to make 4.8Ghz 100% stable. Maybe my Mobo is a limiting factor? I'm just using the standard non-pro P8P67.
It might be that the chip hit what's known as the "wall'. The CPU can easily be o/c to that point, and to go above the "wall," may not be possible or would take a every large amount of voltage. You are right it's not worth going higher. Still, congrats on a great chip.
 

EatChildren

Currently polling second in Australia's federal election (first in the Gold Coast), this feral may one day be your Bogan King.
So, does someone want to explain to me why I'm now getting a horizontal line of green flickering pixels on one of the websites I visit? You know, the kind of stuff that pops up when a GPU is dying?

This is where it occurs. On the background, specifically. As you can see, the background is composed of diagnal lines. On every second line, in perfect order right across the page, there are bright green flickering pixels. They only appear on the lines, and not on the center area. They respond to mouse curser interferance, strangely too. If I move my mouse over the line of pixels, all green pixels on the right side begin to flicker. The left stay normal.

They seem to appear at a very specific cut-off point of the page. I scroll the page, and they scroll with it. Taking a print screen of the page and putting it in paint or whatever wont replicate the pixel effect. It only appears when viewing the website.

This is the first time it's shown up. I know as I visit the website daily. If my GPU is on the fritz I'm going to punch a fucking hole in the wall.
 

Corky

Nine out of ten orphans can't tell the difference.
eh phoeeey, I updated my bios to the latest version in hopes of getting abit lower stable voltages : no go.

Updating the bios removed my OCprofile so I had to do it all again :[ . My cpu does not want to go past 46x multiplier. And even doing the slightest adjustment from +0.070 offset to +0.060v leads to one of the cores always failing in prime95.


Oh well! It could be worse, I've read about specimens that are much worse.'
 
Dammit! I cracked one of the 140mm fans installing my Noctua NH-C14. Really should've taken the fans off to install. Thought it would've been too much of a bitch to get back on. I might have to reseat anyways, I'm seeing 42 C bios idle temp for 2600k at stock. I really want to see what coretemp says, but I'm waiting on dvd drive to upgrade my SSD firmware before installing Windows 7
 

Corky

Nine out of ten orphans can't tell the difference.
HowardRoark said:
Dammit! I cracked one of the 140mm fans installing my Noctua NH-C14. Really should've taken the fans off to install. Thought it would've been too much of a bitch to get back on. I might have to reseat anyways, I'm seeing 42 C bios idle temp for 2600k at stock. I really want to see what coretemp says, but I'm waiting on dvd drive to upgrade my SSD firmware before installing Windows 7

My Bios cpu temps seem to totally off. 44C idle. Coretemp shows 26C idle
 

Corky

Nine out of ten orphans can't tell the difference.
Salacious Crumb said:
http://i.imgur.com/zFcmP.png[/IMG

That's only after two hours but I don't see it changing much from that, I already know it's prime stable for 17 hours.[/QUOTE]

What kind of cooler do you have?
 

irishcow

Member
Just ordered the new PC heres what I got:

i5 2500k
Asus p8p67 Deluxe
gskill ripjaw x series 8GB
1tb samsung spinpoint f3
HIS Radeon 6950 2GB
Noctua NH-D14
Thermalright Shaman for the 6950
Silverstone Raven RV01-EW
Using an OCZ 520W PSU from my old build

I can't wait to start oc'ing this bad boy!
 

Coldsnap

Member
So my motherboard Asus P8H67 has the same feedspan problem as rc213's, going to have to RMA it? I dunno... It seems like its just a discrepancy in some sorta of settings, just gotta find the right box to uncheck
 

TheExodu5

Banned
Salacious Crumb said:
That's only after two hours but I don't see it changing much from that, I already know it's prime stable for 17 hours.

That is the best Sandy Bridge chip I have seen to date. Impressive stuff.
 

ithorien

Member
EatChildren said:
So, does someone want to explain to me why I'm now getting a horizontal line of green flickering pixels on one of the websites I visit? You know, the kind of stuff that pops up when a GPU is dying?

This is where it occurs. On the background, specifically. As you can see, the background is composed of diagnal lines. On every second line, in perfect order right across the page, there are bright green flickering pixels. They only appear on the lines, and not on the center area. They respond to mouse curser interferance, strangely too. If I move my mouse over the line of pixels, all green pixels on the right side begin to flicker. The left stay normal.

They seem to appear at a very specific cut-off point of the page. I scroll the page, and they scroll with it. Taking a print screen of the page and putting it in paint or whatever wont replicate the pixel effect. It only appears when viewing the website.

This is the first time it's shown up. I know as I visit the website daily. If my GPU is on the fritz I'm going to punch a fucking hole in the wall.

My wife had this, but with a red line. We fixed that on her's by changing the refresh rate to 60, think it was sitting at 59. Try that.
 

Corky

Nine out of ten orphans can't tell the difference.
TheExodu5 said:
That is the best Sandy Bridge chip I have seen to date. Impressive stuff.


Agree

*angrily looks at his lost cause of a stepchild cpu*
 

Kyoufu

Member
So how much is a raid SSD top of the line computer going to cost me to build? I don't need to upgrade yet but if I were, how much?
 

Corky

Nine out of ten orphans can't tell the difference.
Kyoufu said:
So how much is a raid SSD top of the line computer going to cost me to build? I don't need to upgrade yet but if I were, how much?

dr_evil_one_million_dollars.jpg



jk, everything? 2000? I don't know anything :(
 

TheExodu5

Banned
Kyoufu said:
So how much is a raid SSD top of the line computer going to cost me to build? I don't need to upgrade yet but if I were, how much?

It really depends on how much you want to spend on the SSDs and GPU. You could be spending anywhere from $2000-$3500, depending on the size of the SSDs and if you're going multi GPU or not. If you were spending ~$500 on SSDs, I'd just go with a single 240GB Vertex 3. Similarly, a single GPU can run you up to $500 with the GTX 580. Double both of those values if you want to RAID and go SLI.
 

EatChildren

Currently polling second in Australia's federal election (first in the Gold Coast), this feral may one day be your Bogan King.
ithorien said:
My wife had this, but with a red line. We fixed that on her's by changing the refresh rate to 60, think it was sitting at 59. Try that.

Already at 60hz. Tried turning it up and down, no change. Fiddled with the resolution to see if it was just the native that was borked, and again no change. The weirdest thing is that this wasn't happening at all. It started happening straight after I installed and booted up Metro to give my GPU a bit of a work out.

Also, I've noticed it on some screenshots and pictures. It seems to be very, very specific as to what colour lights up.
 
Hazaro said:
If you pay two ISP's and do a ton of configuring and it's doubled bandwidth, not speed.
I might have no idea what I'm talking about.

You're thinking of load balancing, which you are correct about. However my ISP allows MLPPP with their DSL service which allows for DSL bonding, if you used such a computer and ran linux-MLPPP or something on it, you could get double the speed (or triple if you bond three connections).

Of course most people just have their wrt54gls run tomato-mlppp to do this for them.
 

Cheech

Member
EatChildren said:
Already at 60hz. Tried turning it up and down, no change. Fiddled with the resolution to see if it was just the native that was borked, and again no change. The weirdest thing is that this wasn't happening at all. It started happening straight after I installed and booted up Metro to give my GPU a bit of a work out.

Also, I've noticed it on some screenshots and pictures. It seems to be very, very specific as to what colour lights up.

You sure it's not the LCD itself?
 

Kyoufu

Member
TheExodu5 said:
It really depends on how much you want to spend on the SSDs and GPU. You could be spending anywhere from $2000-$3500, depending on the size of the SSDs and if you're going multi GPU or not. If you were spending ~$500 on SSDs, I'd just go with a single 240GB Vertex 3. Similarly, a single GPU can run you up to $500 with the GTX 580. Double both of those values if you want to RAID and go SLI.

Hmm, I think my biggest "want" is quiet fans/heatsink when playing games. Is liquid cooling the best option for noise reduction? Liquid leaking would be scary.
 

EatChildren

Currently polling second in Australia's federal election (first in the Gold Coast), this feral may one day be your Bogan King.
Cheech said:
You sure it's not the LCD itself?

It would be weird if it was as I've never had any trouble with the display, but you never know. Tomorrow I'll check it out on my lounge room LCD.
 

ZZMitch

Member
ZZMitch said:
Hey PC-GAF,

So I have about $250 and I am upgrading my GTX 460 and I am looking for the best option. I have been having a lot of problems with my 460 lately with crashing and stuff so I wanted to go ATI this time around, and I hear that the 6950 2GB is the best bang for the buck at my price range at the moment anyway (or at least it was about a month ago?). I have been searching around newegg for the best deal.

So I want a 6950 2GB for around $250. What are my best options, and I really care about stability, because my GTX 460 has been anything but stable in the 8 months that I have had it and PC gaming has been very frustrating because of it! I can't get anywhere in my
first
playthrough of Half Life 2 right now, making me angry heh.

Anyone able to help me out?
 

Corky

Nine out of ten orphans can't tell the difference.
ZZMitch said:
Anyone able to help me out?

Well if you're asking wether or not the 6950 2gb is a good or not : it's def a good card, one of the best bang for the buck cards out there.

If you're asking about a certain manufacturer I'd like to recommend the msi twinfrozr one or the asus direct II cu one. Excellent cooling on those cards.

edit : also, how are you soo sure that it's your gtx 460 that's "crashing" ? Do you get drivercrashes? Reboots?
 
ZZMitch said:
Anyone able to help me out?

You should probably diagnose what the instability actually is, because that card isn't really known for causing issues. If it's something else, you might spend money on an upgrade and not fix the issue.
 

TheExodu5

Banned
^sometimes you just have bad luck and get an unstable part. Even going with the best of the best you might run into stability issues. Luck of the draw. That being said, I've seen a lot of Gigabyte GTX 460 having issues, so sometimes going with a certain manufacturer for a given part might result in a higher chance of having stability issues.

Kyoufu said:
Hmm, I think my biggest "want" is quiet fans/heatsink when playing games. Is liquid cooling the best option for noise reduction? Liquid leaking would be scary.

You can great cooling with air. We'll assume a 240GB SSD and a single GPU.

$180 - Asus P8P67 Pro or Gigabyte P67A-UD4
$220 - Intel Core i5 2500k
$90 - Noctua DH-14 or Venomous X + 2x 800RPM 120MM fans
$80 - 8GB G.Skill/Corsair DDR3
$500 - Asus GTX 580 DirectCu II
$140 - 2x 1TB 7200RPM HDD (RAID 0)
$525 - 240GB OCZ Vertex 3
$80 - Blu-ray drive
$100 - Windows 7 64-bit
$180 - Corsair AX850

That leaves the case. If you don't mind having a large case, the Silverstone FT02 offers incredible cooling and is very quiet. Otherwise, you could go with a hotter case focused on noise isolation like the Antec P183 or Fractal Define R3.

Going with the most expensive option, the FT02 would run you $250.

That puts the total cost at around $2345.
 

Kenka

Member
TheExodu5 said:
^sometimes you just have bad luck and get an unstable part. Even going with the best of the best you might run into stability issues. Luck of the draw. That being said, I've seen a lot of Gigabyte GTX 460 having issues, so sometimes going with a certain manufacturer for a given part might result in a higher chance of having stability issues.



You can great cooling with air. We'll assume a 240GB SSD and a single GPU.

$180 - Asus P8P67 Pro or Gigabyte P67A-UD4
$220 - Intel Core i5 2500k
$90 - Noctua DH-14 or Venomous X + 2x 800RPM 120MM fans
$80 - 8GB G.Skill/Corsair DDR3
$500 - Asus GTX 580 DirectCu II
$140 - 2x 1TB 7200RPM HDD (RAID 0)
$525 - 240GB OCZ Vertex 3
$80 - Blu-ray drive
$100 - Windows 7 64-bit
$180 - Corsair AX850

That leaves the case. If you don't mind having a large case, the Silverstone FT02 offers incredible cooling and is very quiet. Otherwise, you could go with a hotter case focused on noise isolation like the Antec P183 or Fractal Define R3.

Going with the most expensive option, the FT02 would run you $250.

That puts the total cost at around $2345.

2x 1TB seems high, he can spare that money. Blu-Ray is also not exactly compulsory. Otherwise, great advices !
 

ithorien

Member
TheExodu5 said:
Corsair AX850

Looking at the AX series, I really wish I went with that instead. Wonder how big of a hit I'd take with Newegg for tryin to swap...

EDIT: Well color me awesome. Talked to Newegg, they'll RMA my PSU as defective with ship back free and no restocking as refund, already ordered the AX750 as replacement.
 

TheExodu5

Banned
The Corsair fan can be set to 1,600RPM or 2,000 RPM. 1,400RPM isn't going to be much quieter. I'd wait and see how the noise is, and then buy the fan if it's too loud for you. Personally, I don't like my fans going above 800RPM.
 

Coldsnap

Member
TheExodu5 said:
The Corsair fan can be set to 1,600RPM or 2,000 RPM. 1,400RPM isn't going to be much quieter. I'd wait and see how the noise is, and then buy the fan if it's too loud for you. Personally, I don't like my fans going above 800RPM.

Ah okay, good advice. I'm probably SOL anyways because my motherboard is super janky with controlling fans. Probably will return it once I test another fan on it.
 

ithorien

Member
Since I have no business buying any more shit, anyone interested in these coupons?

EDIT: NVM, big letters saying non-transferable. Why would they be mean like that.
 

Sanic

Member
Any kind of issues with Bulletstorm I should know about? My comp (gtx 460, amd 3.2ghz quad) pretty handily surpass the recommended specs but i'm only getting 30-40 fps at 720p. Any tips?
 

ithorien

Member
Pandoracell said:
Any kind of issues with Bulletstorm I should know about? My comp (gtx 460, amd 3.2ghz quad) pretty handily surpass the recommended specs but i'm only getting 30-40 fps at 720p. Any tips?

Hmm, drivers? My old rig (Q6600 stock 4GB DDR2 GTX260) ran it at that FPS but at 1080p. You shouldn't be that low.
 

Corky

Nine out of ten orphans can't tell the difference.
Pandoracell said:
Any kind of issues with Bulletstorm I should know about? My comp (gtx 460, amd 3.2ghz quad) pretty handily surpass the recommended specs but i'm only getting 30-40 fps at 720p. Any tips?

AA fucks everything up, I had 460 SLI and if I enabled more than 2xAA or w/e my frames went from 60 to , like you, 30-40fps
 

Sanic

Member
ithorien said:
Hmm, drivers? My old rig (Q6600 stock 4GB DDR2 GTX260) ran it at that FPS but at 1080p. You shouldn't be that low.

Latest beta drivers from late March.

I think at this point it's obvious something is pretty messed up on my PC and i'm tired of posting about it here, but I don't really have the option of just chopping out parts and replacing them to see if it helps, so what are some suggestions so I can figure this out?
 

Corky

Nine out of ten orphans can't tell the difference.
Pandoracell said:
Latest beta drivers from late March.

I think at this point it's obvious something is pretty messed up on my PC and i'm tired of posting about it here, but I don't really have the option of just chopping out parts and replacing them to see if it helps, so what are some suggestions so I can figure this out?

Run some benchmarks like unigine heaven or 3dmark to see if you place "where you should" with your rig and then take it from there.
 
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